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# 2023-04-22 - The Canyons of the Colorado by John Wesley Powell | |
Grand Canyon of the Colorado River by Thomas Moran | |
Chasm of the Colorado by Thomas Moran | |
Years ago i put this book on my to-read list after seeing it | |
referenced in another book, i forget which. Coincidentally, i saw | |
and old hard-bound copy sitting on an engineer's desk in Eugene. | |
The book is still making the rounds. The author did not originally | |
intend to write a book, but Congress made him do it. So he wrote | |
the book based on his journals. It sounded like quite an | |
adventure to have in the late 1800's! Below are some excerpts, with | |
my comments within square brackets. | |
# Preface | |
Realizing the difficulty of painting in word colors a land so | |
strange, so wonderful, and so vast in its features, in the weakness | |
of my descriptive powers I have sought refuge in graphic | |
illustration, and for this purpose have gathered from the magazines | |
and from various scientific reports an abundance of material. All of | |
this illustrative material originated in my work, but it has already | |
been used elsewhere. | |
# Chapter 1, The Valley of the Colorado | |
Including [the Green River tributary], the whole length of the | |
[Colorado River] is about 2,000 miles. The region of the country | |
drained by the Colorado and its tributaries is about 800 miles in | |
length and varies from 300 to 500 miles in width, containing about | |
300,000 square miles... | |
For more than a thousand miles along its course the Colorado has cut | |
for itself such a canyon; but at some few points where lateral | |
streams join it the canyon is broken, and these narrow, transverse | |
valleys divide it into a series of canyons. | |
... the whole upper portion of the basin of the Colorado is traversed | |
by a labyrinth of these deep gorges. | |
The longest canyon through which the Colorado runs is that between | |
the mouth of the Colorado Chiquito and the Grand Wash, a distance of | |
217-1/2 miles. But this is separated from another above, 65-1/2 | |
miles in length, only by the narrow canyon valley of the Colorado | |
Chiquito. | |
... there were stories current of parties wandering on the brink of | |
the canyon and vainly endeavoring to reach the waters below, and | |
perishing with thirst at last in sight of the river which was roaring | |
its mockery into their dying ears. | |
# Chapter 2, Mesas and Buttes | |
After the acquisition of this territory by the United States they | |
became disaffected by reason of encroaching civilization, and the | |
petty wars between United States troops and the Navajos were in the | |
main disastrous to our forces, due in part to the courage, skill, and | |
superior numbers of the Navajos and in part to the character of the | |
country, which is easily defended, as the routes of travel along the | |
canyons present excellent opportunities for defense and ambuscade. | |
But under the leadership and by the advice of Kit Carson these | |
Indians were ultimately conquered. This wily but brave frontiersman | |
recommended a new method of warfare, which was to destroy the herds | |
and flocks of the Navajos; and this course was pursued. Regular | |
troops with volunteers from California and New Mexico went into the | |
Navajo country and shot down their herds of half-wild horses, killed | |
hundreds of thousands of sheep, cut down their peach orchards which | |
were scattered about the springs and little streams, destroyed their | |
irrigating works, and devastated their little patches of corn, | |
squashes, and melons; and entirely neglected the Navajos themselves, | |
who were concealed among the rocks of the canyons. Seeing the | |
destruction wrought upon their means of livelihood, the Navajos at | |
once yielded. More than 8,000 of them surrendered at one time... | |
Wherever there is water, near by an ancient ruin may be found; and | |
these ruins are gathered about centers, the centers being larger | |
pueblos and the scattered ruins representing single houses. The | |
ancient people lived in villages, or pueblos, but during the growing | |
season they scattered about by the springs and streams to cultivate | |
the soil by irrigation, and wherever there was a little farm or | |
garden patch, there was built a summer house of stone. When times of | |
war came, especially when they were invaded by the Navajos, these | |
ancient people left their homes in the pueblos and by the streams and | |
constructed temporary homes in the cliffs and canyon walls. Such | |
cliff ruins are abundant throughout the region, intimately the | |
ancient pueblo peoples succumbed to the prowess of the Navajos and | |
were driven out. | |
When the Navajo invasion came, by which kindred tribes were displaced | |
from the district farther west, these Tewan Indians left their | |
pueblos on the plateau and their dwellings by the rivers below in the | |
depths of the canyon and constructed cavate homes for themselves; | |
that is, they excavated chambers in the cliffs where these cliffs | |
were composed of soft, friable tufa. On the face of the cliff, | |
hundreds of feet high and thousands of feet or even miles in length, | |
they dug out chambers with stone tools, these chambers being little | |
rooms eight or ten feet in diameter. Sometimes two or more such | |
chambers connected. Then they constructed stairways in the soft | |
rock, by which their cavate houses were reached; and in these rock | |
shelters they lived during times of war. When the Navajo invasion | |
was long past, ... Spanish adventurers entered this country from | |
Mexico, and again the Tewan peoples left their homes on the mesas and | |
by the canyons to find safety in the cavate dwellings of the cliffs; | |
and now the archaeologist in the study of this country discovers | |
these two periods of construction and occupation of the cavate | |
dwellings of the Tewan Indians. | |
The Ute Indians, like all the Indians of North America, have a wealth | |
of mythic stories. The heroes of these stories are the beasts, | |
birds, and reptiles of the region, and the themes of the stories are | |
the doings of these mythic beasts--the ancients from whom the present | |
animals have descended and degenerated. The primeval animals were | |
wonderful beings, as related in the lore of the Utes. They were the | |
creators and controllers of all the phenomena of nature... The Utes | |
are zootheists. | |
# Chapter 3, Mountains and Plateaus | |
Fremont's Peak, the culminating point, is 13,790 feet above the level | |
of the sea. It stands in a wilderness of crags. Here at Fremont's | |
Peak three great rivers have their sources: Wind River flows eastward | |
into the Mississippi; Green River flows southward into the Colorado; | |
and Gros Ventre River flows northwestward into the Columbia. | |
When the seeds were gathered they were winnowed by tossing them in | |
trays so that the winds might carry away the chaff. Then they were | |
roasted in the same trays. Burning coals and seeds were mixed in the | |
basket trays and kept in motion by a tossing process which fanned the | |
coals until the seeds were done; then they were separated from the | |
coals by dexterous manipulation. Afterwards the seeds were ground on | |
mealing-stones and molded into cakes, often huge loaves, that were | |
stored away for use in time of need. Raspberries, chokecherries, and | |
buffalo berries are abundant, and these fruits were gathered and | |
mixed with the bread. Such fruit cakes were great dainties among | |
these people [the Shoshone]. | |
# Chapter 4, Cliffs and Terraces | |
On the margins of the canyons these are rounded off into great | |
vertical walls, and at the bottom of every winding canyon a beautiful | |
stream of water is found running over quicksands. Sometimes the | |
streams in their curving have cut under the rocks, and overhanging | |
cliffs of towering altitudes are seen; and somber chambers are found | |
between buttresses that uphold the walls. Among the Indians this is | |
known as the "Rock Rovers' Land," and is peopled by mythic beings of | |
uncanny traits. | |
In these canyon walls many caves are found, and often the caves | |
contain lakelets and pools of clear water. | |
A great variety of desert plants furnish them food, as seeds, roots, | |
and stalks. More than fifty varieties of such seed-bearing plants | |
have been collected. The seeds themselves are roasted, ground, and | |
preserved in cakes. The most abundant food of this nature is derived | |
from the sunflower and the nuts of the piñón. | |
From one of these it [the Kanab river] emerges at the foot of the | |
Vermilion Cliffs, and here stood an extensive ruin not many years | |
ago. Some portions of the pueblo were three stories high. The | |
structure was one of the best found in this land of ruins. The Mormon | |
people settling here have used the stones of the old pueblo in | |
building their homes, and now no vestiges of the ancient structure | |
remain. | |
To the south they extended far beyond the territory of the United | |
States, and the so-called Aztec cities were rather superior pueblos | |
of this character. The known pueblo tribes of the United States | |
belong to several different linguistic stocks. They are far from | |
being one homogeneous people, for they have not only different | |
languages but different religions and worship different gods. | |
# Chapter 5, From Green River City to Flaming Gorge | |
Early in the spring of 1869 a party was organized for the exploration | |
of the canyons. Boats were built in Chicago and transported by rail | |
to the point where the Union Pacific Railroad crosses the Green | |
River. With these we were to descend the Green to the Colorado, and | |
the Colorado down to the foot of the Grand Canyon. | |
Our boats are four in number. Three are built of oak; stanch and | |
firm; double-ribbed, with double stem and stern posts, and further | |
strengthened by bulkheads, dividing each into three compartments. Two | |
of these, the fore and aft, are decked, forming water-tight cabins. | |
It is expected these will buoy the boats should the waves roll over | |
them in rough water. The fourth boat is made of pine, very light, but | |
16 feet in length, with a sharp cutwater, and every way built for | |
fast rowing, and divided into compartments as the others. The little | |
vessels are 21 feet long, and, taking out the cargoes, can be carried | |
by four men. | |
We take with us rations deemed sufficient to last ten months, for we | |
expect, when winter comes on and the river is filled with ice, to lie | |
over at some point until spring arrives; and so we take with us | |
abundant supplies of clothing, likewise. ... For scientific work, we | |
have two sextants, four chronometers, a number of barometers, | |
thermometers, compasses, and other instruments. | |
[They divided the cargo to have redundant supplies in all the boats | |
so that the mission could go on even if they lost one of the boats.] | |
Trail up Walpi Mesa | |
To-day it rains, and we employ the time in repairing one of our | |
barometers, which was broken on the way from New York. A new tube has | |
to be put in; that is, a long glass tube has to be filled with | |
mercury, four or five inches at a time, and each installment boiled | |
over a spirit lamp. It is a delicate task to do this without breaking | |
the glass; but we have success, and are ready to measure mountains | |
once more. | |
# Chapter 6, From Flaming Gorge to the Gate of Lodore | |
May 30.--This morning we are ready to enter the mysterious canyon, | |
and start with some anxiety. The old mountaineers tell us that it | |
cannot be run; the Indians say, "Water heap catch 'em"; but all are | |
eager for the trial, and off we go. | |
June 2.--This morning we make a trail among the rocks, transport the | |
cargoes to a point below the fall, let the remaining boats over, and | |
are ready to start before noon. | |
On a high rock by which the trail passes we find the inscription: | |
"Ashley 18-5." The third figure is obscure--some of the party reading | |
it 1835, some 1855. James Baker, an old-time mountaineer, once told | |
me about a party of men starting down the river, and Ashley was named | |
as one. The story runs that the boat was swamped, and some of the | |
party drowned in one of the canyons below. The word "Ashley" is a | |
warning to us, and we resolve on great caution. | |
After a good drink we walk out to the brink of the canyon and look | |
down to the water below. I can do this now, but it has taken several | |
years of mountain climbing to cool my nerves so that I can sit with | |
my feet over the edge and calmly look down a precipice 2,000 feet. | |
And yet I cannot look on and see another do the same. I must either | |
bid him come away or turn my head. | |
# Chapter 7, The Canyon of Lodore | |
This chapter has an exciting tale about one of the boats going over a | |
waterfall, breaking in two, then breaking into pieces. The two men | |
in that boat narrowly escaped going over a second and far worse | |
waterfall. I won't quote [or spoil] the story here, but suffice it | |
to say, it was a close call. | |
June 10 | |
While the men are building the camp fire, we discover an iron | |
bake-oven, several tin plates, a part of a boat, and many other | |
fragments, which denote that this is the place where Ashley's party | |
was wrecked. | |
As Ashley and his party were wrecked here and as we have lost one of | |
our boats at the same place, we adopt the name Disaster Falls for the | |
scene of so much peril and loss. | |
Though some of his companions were drowned, Ashley and one other | |
survived the wreck, climbed the canyon wall, and found their way | |
across the Wasatch Mountains to Salt Lake City, living chiefly on | |
berries, as they wandered through an unknown and difficult country. | |
# Chapter 8, From Echo Park to the Mouth of the Uinta River | |
We have named the long peninsular rock on the other side Echo Rock. | |
Desiring to climb it, Bradley and I take the little boat and pull up | |
stream as far as possible... | |
Here, by making a spring, I gain a foothold in a little crevice, and | |
grasp an angle of the rock overhead. I find I can get up no farther | |
and cannot step back, for I dare not let go with my hand and cannot | |
reach foothold below without. I call to Bradley for help. He finds a | |
way by which he can get to the top of the rock over my head, but | |
cannot reach me. Then he looks around for some stick or limb of a | |
tree, but finds none. ... The moment is critical. Standing on my | |
toes, my muscles begin to tremble. It is sixty or eighty feet to the | |
foot of the precipice. If I lose my hold I shall fall to the bottom | |
and then perhaps roll over the bench and tumble still farther down | |
the cliff. At this instant it occurs to Bradley to take off his | |
drawers, which he does, and swings them down to me. I hug close to | |
the rock, let go with my hand, seize the dangling legs, and with his | |
assistance am enabled to gain the top. | |
June 29 | |
This morning I cross the Green and go over into the valley of the | |
White and extend my walk several miles along its winding way, until | |
at last I come in sight of some strangely carved rocks, named by | |
General Hughes, in his journal, "Goblin City." | |
Photos of Goblin City | |
# Chapter 10, From the Junction of the Grand and Green to the Mouth | |
# of the Little Colorado | |
July 22 | |
Our boats are leaking again, from the strains received in the bad | |
rapids yesterday, so after dinner they are turned over and some of | |
the men calk them. | |
Captain Powell and I go out to climb the wall to the east, for we can | |
see dwarf pines above, and it is our purpose to collect the resin | |
which oozes from them, to use in pitching our boats. | |
July 24 | |
We examine the rapids below. Large rocks have fallen from the | |
walls--great, angular blocks, which have rolled down the talus and | |
are strewn along the channel. We are compelled to make three portages | |
in succession, the distance being less than three fourths of a mile, | |
with a fall of 75 feet. Among these rocks, in chutes, whirlpools, and | |
great waves, with rushing breakers and foam, the water finds its way, | |
still tumbling down. We stop for the night only three fourths of a | |
mile below the last camp. A very hard day's work has been done, and | |
at evening I sit on a rock by the edge of the river and look at the | |
water and listen to its roar. | |
[The water is rough. The party frequently loses ores, and then has | |
to saw driftwood logs and make new oars to replace them.] | |
July 28 | |
After this the walls suddenly close in, so that the canyon is | |
narrower than we have ever known it. The water fills it from wall to | |
wall, giving us no landing-place at the foot of the cliff; the river | |
is very swift and the canyon very tortuous, so that we can see but a | |
few hundred yards ahead; the walls tower over us, often overhanging | |
so as almost to shut out the light. I stand on deck, watching with | |
intense anxiety, lest this may lead us into some danger; but we glide | |
along, with no obstruction, no falls, no rocks, and in a mile and a | |
half emerge from the narrow gorge into a more open and broken portion | |
of the canyon. Now that it is past, it seems a very simple thing | |
indeed to run through such a place, but the fear of what might be | |
ahead made a deep impression on us. | |
August 5 | |
With some feeling of anxiety we enter a new canyon this morning. We | |
have learned to observe closely the texture of the rock. In softer | |
strata we have a quiet river, in harder we find rapids and falls. | |
Below us are the limestones and hard sandstones which we found in | |
Cataract Canyon. This bodes toil and danger. | |
Besides the texture of the rocks, there is another condition which | |
affects the character of the channel, as we have found by experience. | |
Where the strata are horizontal the river is often quiet, and, even | |
though it may be very swift in places, no great obstacles are found. | |
Where the rocks incline in the direction traveled, the river usually | |
sweeps with great velocity, but still has few rapids and falls. But | |
where the rocks dip up stream and the river cuts obliquely across the | |
upturned formations, harder strata above and softer below, we have | |
rapids and falls. | |
# Chapter 11, From the Little Colorado to the Foot of the Grand Canyon | |
August 14 | |
Heretofore hard rocks have given us bad river; soft rocks, smooth | |
water; and a series of rocks harder than any we have experienced sets | |
in. The river enters the gneiss! We can see but a little way into the | |
granite gorge, but it looks threatening. | |
The walls now are more than a mile in height--a vertical distance | |
difficult to appreciate. | |
[The waterfalls frequently occur after creeks join the river. The | |
creeks wash down boulders, which dam the river and form waterfalls.] | |
There is yet extant a copy of a record made by a heathen artist to | |
express his conception of the demands of the conquerors. In one part | |
of the picture we have a lake, and near by stands a priest pouring | |
water on the head of a native. On the other side, a poor Indian has a | |
cord about his throat. Lines run from these two groups to a central | |
figure, a man with beard and full Spanish panoply. The interpretation | |
of the picture-writing is this: "Be baptized as this saved heathen, | |
or be hanged as that damned heathen." Doubtless, some of these people | |
preferred another alternative, and rather than be baptized or hanged | |
they chose to imprison themselves within these canyon walls. | |
[The food is spoiled by repeated exposure to water. They have 10 | |
days worth left.] | |
Our hopes are that the worst places are passed, but our barometers | |
are all so much injured as to be useless, and so we have lost our | |
reckoning in altitude, and know not how much descent the river has | |
yet to make. | |
We have had rain from time to time all day, and have been thoroughly | |
drenched and chilled; but between showers the sun shines with great | |
power and the mercury in our thermometers stands at 115 degrees, so | |
that we have rapid changes from great extremes, which are very | |
disagreeable. It is especially cold in the rain to-night. The little | |
canvas we have is rotten and useless; the rubber ponchos with which | |
we started from Green River City have all been lost; more than half | |
the party are without hats, not one of us has an entire suit of | |
clothes, and we have not a blanket apiece. So we gather driftwood and | |
build a fire; but after supper the rain, coming down in torrents, | |
extinguishes it, and we sit up all night on the rocks, shivering, and | |
are more exhausted by the night's discomfort than by the day's toil. | |
August 23 | |
In some places the stream has not excavated its channel down | |
vertically through the rocks, but has cut obliquely, so that one wall | |
overhangs the other. In other places it is cut vertically above and | |
obliquely below, or obliquely above and vertically below, so that it | |
is impossible to see out overhead. | |
Just after dinner we pass a stream on the right, which leaps into' | |
the Colorado by a direct fall of more than 100 feet, forming a | |
beautiful cascade. There is a bed of very hard rock above, 30 or 40 | |
feet in thickness, and there are much softer beds below. The hard | |
beds above project many yards beyond the softer, which are washed | |
out, forming a deep cave behind the fall, and the stream pours | |
through a narrow crevice above into a deep pool below. Around on the | |
rocks in the cavelike chamber are set beautiful ferns, with delicate | |
fronds and enameled stalks. The frondlets have their points turned | |
down to form spore cases. It has very much the appearance of the | |
maidenhair fern, but is much larger. This delicate foliage covers the | |
rocks all about the fountain, and gives the chamber great beauty. | |
August 26 | |
Since we left the Colorado Chiquito we have seen no evidences that | |
the tribe of Indians inhabiting the plateaus on either side ever come | |
down to the river; but about eleven o'clock to-day we discover an | |
Indian garden at the foot of the wall on the right, just where a | |
little stream with a narrow flood plain comes down through a side | |
canyon. ...there are some nice green squashes. We carry ten or a | |
dozen of these on board our boats and hurriedly leave, not willing to | |
be caught in the robbery, yet excusing ourselves by pleading our | |
great want. ... Never was fruit so sweet as these stolen squashes. | |
August 27 | |
About eleven o'clock we come to a place in the river which seems much | |
worse than any we have yet met in all its course. | |
August 28 | |
[ | |
Three men decide to leave the party and try to make their way back | |
to civilization. The rest of the party decide to press on. It is 45 | |
miles as the bird flies to the mouth of another tributary, 20 miles | |
above which is a Mormon settlement. The party leave behind one of | |
the boats, so now they have two boats. | |
They go through a many waterfalls in series. They reach one they | |
cannot portage, so they carry the boats out of the canyon and try to | |
lower own down a cliff wall further down, with a person in the boat | |
to keep it from hitting the canyon wall. It gets stuck in a | |
dangerous situation. The person eventually decides to cut the line | |
and goes over the waterfall in the boat! Amazingly, he makes it | |
through okay. The rest of the party eventually goes over the | |
waterfall too. They wipe out, but survive, and the guy at the bottom | |
helps rescue them. | |
] | |
August 30 | |
... | |
As we come near, the men seem far less surprised to see us than we do | |
to see them. They evidently know who we are, and on talking with them | |
they tell us that we have been reported lost long ago, and that some | |
weeks before a messenger had been sent from Salt Lake City with | |
instructions for them to watch for any fragments or relics of our | |
party that might drift down the stream. | |
Our arrival here is very opportune. When we look over our store of | |
supplies, we find about 10 pounds of flour, 15 pounds of dried | |
apples, but 70 or 80 pounds of coffee. | |
# Chapter 12, The Rio Virgen and the Uinkaret Mountains | |
The party splits up and a year later they resume the mission from | |
where they left off. | |
September 15 | |
It is curious now to observe the knowledge of [the] Indians. There | |
is not a trail but what they know; every gulch and every rock seems | |
familiar. I have prided myself on being able to grasp and retain in | |
my mind the topography of a country; but these Indians put me to | |
shame. My knowledge is only general, embracing the more important | |
features of a region that remains as a map engraved on my mind; but | |
theirs is particular. They know every rock and every ledge, every | |
gulch and canyon, and just where to wind among these to find a pass; | |
and their knowledge is unerring. | |
# Chapter 14, To Zuni | |
All life is miraculous and is worshiped as divine. The heavenly | |
bodies, the sun and moon and stars, are mythic animals, and all of | |
the phenomena of nature are attributed to these zoic beings. ... All | |
the phenomena of nature, the rising and setting of the sun, the | |
waxing and waning of the moon, the shining of the stars, the coming | |
of comets, the flash of meteors, the change of seasons, the gathering | |
and vanishing of the clouds, the blowing of the winds, the falling of | |
the rain, the spreading of the snow, and all other phenomena of | |
physical nature, are held to be the acts of these wonderful zoic | |
deities. It is deemed of prime importance that such deities should be | |
induced to act in the interest of men. | |
These Shamans and cult societies have a great variety of functions to | |
perform. ... The hunter cannot penetrate the forest without his | |
charm; the woman cannot plant corn until a ceremony is performed for | |
securing the blessings of some divine being. A war must be submitted | |
to the gods, and a sneeze demands a prayer. | |
[Kind of like saying "bless you" to a sneeze, making long | |
deliberations over foreign policy, and requiring a hunting license | |
and tags to hunt, etc.] | |
# Chapter 15, The Grand Canyon | |
The Grand Canyon of the Colorado is a canyon composed of many | |
canyons. It is a composite of thousands, of tens of thousands, of | |
gorges. In like manner, each wall of the canyon is a composite | |
structure, a wall composed of many walls, but never a repetition. | |
Every one of these almost innumerable gorges is a world of beauty in | |
itself. In the Grand Canyon there are thousands of gorges like that | |
below Niagara Palls, and there are a thousand Yosemites. Yet all | |
these canyons unite to form one grand canyon, the most sublime | |
spectacle on the earth. | |
The wonders of the Grand Canyon cannot be adequately represented in | |
symbols of speech, nor by speech itself. The resources of the graphic | |
art are taxed beyond their powers in attempting to portray its | |
features. Language and illustration combined must fail. | |
The rainbow is not more replete with hues. But form and color do not | |
exhaust all the divine qualities of the Grand Canyon. It is the land | |
of music. The river thunders in perpetual roar, swelling in floods of | |
music when the storm gods play upon the rocks and fading away in soft | |
and low murmurs when the infinite blue of heaven is unveiled. | |
author: Powell, John Wesley, 1834-1902 | |
detail: gopher://gopherpedia.com/0/John_Wesley_Powell | |
LOC: F788 .P88 | |
source: gopher://gopher.pglaf.org/1/8/0/8/8082/ | |
tags: ebook,non-fiction,outdoor | |
title: The Canyons of the Colorado | |
# Tags | |
ebook | |
non-fiction | |
outdoor |