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Sophie Synth (3861577)
by Edward Jagger (aneta82016)
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IF YOU WANT TO MAKE YOUR OWN SOPHIE, PLEASE READ THE
'READ ME' FILE INCLUDED WITH HER PARTS!
This is a 3D-printed hollow chassis for a young lady
called Sophie Synth. She is supposed to be a humanoid
robot (or more correctly a gynoid). I'm currently working
on a chat bot "A.I." brain scripted in Python and AIML
for her and I'm also attempting to print her out some
robotic arms (the WE-R2.4 Six-Axis Robot Arm designed by
LoboCNC). I plan to run this all off a mini-computer that
will fit inside her lower abdomen.
Sophie has no legs because after a little research I soon
realized that near-life-sized robotic humanoid legs which
can walk reliably are incredibly difficult and expensive
to pull off. I don't have lots of money to blow on
powerful computers, high-power servos, sensors and LIDAR!
Instead, I am planning to bolt her torso to the base of a
remote control car so she can zoom about that way.
(Apologies - the pupils I had uploaded originally were
the wrong size for the eyeballs, so I've uploaded the
'pupil scale' that I used instead. 50% scale is the
correct one.)
README FILE CONTENTS BELOW
(Updated 20-04-2020 when new .STL files were uploaded).
3D-PRINTING SOPHIE'S TORSO
----------------------------------------------
All of these parts were printed using an Anet A8 printer,
which is a clone of the Prusa i3. That's why each .GCODE
and .3MF file name begins with 'PI3'.
It's up to you what scale you print these parts at, but
in my experience, Cura kept auto-scaling the .STL files
up 10000%, so I had to change the scale back down to
100%. Unfortunately, the part was then far too small, but
I worked out that if I scaled parts back up to 5600% that
was the largest I could fit onto the hotplate of my
cheap, little AnetA8 3D Printer at the time.
If you have a printer with a larger hotplate, you can
obviously go larger than 5600%. I'm not sure what scale
'life-sized' would be, but the 5600% I used makes Sophie
about two-thirds of life-size.
If there are parts where I have only supplied one side of
the model e.g. soph_face_left, then that's because all
you have to do is Mirror that part in Cura in order to
print the opposite side e.g. I uploaded the right ear,
and all you have to do is mirror it to print the left
ear.
I have included .STL and .3MF files for certain large
parts in case you want to load them into Cura and print
them using a different position or different infill and
supports to the setup that I used (0.2mm with 10% lines
infill, a brim and supports everywhere).
It took me 8-9 hours to print each half of the face and
cranium using these settings...but they were literally
some of the first parts I ever 3D printed that weren't
just tests of printer calibration, so other more
experienced people will probably find a more efficient
way.
I started printing with the head and worked my way down
gluing the plates together two at a time. You could work
from the base (lower abdomen) upwards if you want.
Of course, it's worth considering where the supports go.
If you place them on a the front of a plate that is going
to be visible on the outside of the chassis, then you
will have a lot of post-processing to do (snipping away
excess plastic then filing and sanding down burs) in
order to make that plate look nice and smooth. However,
if you place supports on the inside of the chassis, then
you will have less sanding and filing to do because all
those plastic burs aren't going to be visible.
I found that if I was having problems with scale (as I
did with the shoulders not matching up symmetrically at
first) mirroring one side in Cura solved the problem and
made the scale of both the left and right plates uniform.
GLUING SOPHIE'S PLATES TOGETHER
--------------------------------------------------------
I used Gorilla Glue, a spritzer bottle of water and four
small, metal jump-lead crocodile clamps to glue and hold
the chassis plates together. If you have the proper C and
G clamps which hobbyists and carpenters use, then even
better.
Gorilla Glue expands a lot when it's working properly, so
you will need to file and sand down the seams on the
outside after the glue has set.
Remember that PLA tends to shrink about 2% when it cools,
so if there is a little gap when you try to glue two
separate plates together, this may be the result of 2%
shrinkage of both plates, which means 4% total shrinkage.
I noticed this along some of the seams that run down the
side of Sophie's abdomen in particular.
I used some strong scissors to cut out rectangles and
strips of plastic milk bottle which I glued to the inside
of Sophie's chassis anywhere that I could see a larger
gap or an area that I thought was weak and could use re-
enforcing. Before you glue on the milk bottle plastic
though, make sure that you have roughed the surface with
sandpaper and scored it gently (I used the sharp end of a
square metal file). Then apply your glue (I applied to
both surfaces) and give it a quick spray with water to
activate. This all ensures that the Gorilla glue will
adhere strongly to the surface of the milk bottle
plastic. If you are struggling to hold a part in place
while it glues (say your clamps are too large to fit into
a gap, or the part is too large to be clamped) then
improvise. For example, I used elastic bands to hold the
two halves of Sophie's head together as the glue set. I
also used a bit of Blu-Tack to hold my rectangles of milk-
bottle plastic in place over some of the internal seams
whilst they glued in place.
I have also included a couple of 'Fixplates' which I
printed to fill in gaps that appeared between the two
front plates of both the upper and lower abdomen.
Hopefully you won't need them because you have a better
3D printer and are better at 3D printing than I am, but
just in case...
I used Unibond Acrylic Flexible Decorators Filler to fill
in any smaller gaps which appeared in the seams of
Sophie's torso.
FITTING THE EYES INSIDE THEIR SOCKETS
----------------------------------------------------------
-----
I would recommend not gluing Sophie's cranium onto the
top of her face because you will need to fit her eyeballs
inside her head.
The eyeballs fit in best if you cut away some of the
support plastic from inside the two halves of Sophie's
face.
The eyeballs are one inch in diameter, so they should fit
snugly against the back of her eye-sockets.
You can use sticky tack around the perimeter of the
eyeball and stick it to the inside of Sophie's eye socket
(the same way that resin eyes are fitted into the eye
sockets of a 60 cm ball-jointed doll).
Alternatively, you could just pack around the back of
each eyeball using tissue paper or newspaper until it
fits snugly up against the socket. If you are going to
pack around the eyeball, it would make sense to print two
eyeball halves, then glue them together to make a sphere.
This should require less packing.
Date Published: 2021-03-25 04:34:34
Identifier: thingiverse-3861577
Item Size: 34284781
Media Type: data
# Topics
stl
3dsculpture
Gynoid
post-human
Model Robots
thingiverse
sci-fi
robot
robots
science fiction
3Dmodel
android
scifi
3d_sculpture
robot_chassis
# Collections
thingiverse
# Uploaded by
@xtream1101
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