Title: Constructing The Perfect Crisp Part 2
Categories: Fruit, Pies, Info
Yield: 1 servings
Apple crisp
Lastly, these chefs say to ignore the urban baking myth that says
for the best crisp you should bake the topping and the apples
separately. "I prefer to bake the topping right on the apples. I
like the crunchy layer on top with the softer, almost chewy filling
that is underneath. I also feel that the apples bake up juicier when
they're covered with the crumb topping," Vernier says.
Back in my kitchen, I followed the method-driven tips I'd gathered
from these two professionals. The improvements to my recipe became
clear when I made this belly-warming dish for the woman who'd taught
me to make it years ago -- my mom. The verdict? A winner --
toothsome, crisp and balanced.
How to make that crisp a winner
Pass up those Red Delicious: Say yes to baking apples --
Gravensteins, Granny Smiths, Pippins and Golden Delicious -- but
don't overlook some of the "new" varieties that are great eating
apples, too. See the results of FOODday's taste-test of 10 types of
apple. And, always ask purveyors which baking apples are fresh and
in season for best results (see Test Kitchen story).
Dice, don't slice: Paley's Place pastry chef Lauren Fortgang cubes
her apples instead of slicing them so their size matches that of the
other fruit she often mixes into the base. Her method also works
best for creating a firm, purely apple base that props up the golden
topping.
Don't go the melted route: Chilled butter is the key to a good
crust. Run from recipes that call for mixing in melted butter, since
they work against the goal of creating a crumbly topping. Spice it
up: Local pastry chefs Fortgang and Michelle Vernier are divided on
the issue of where to add the spices in a crisp. Fortgang prefers to
leave the apples alone and puts her spices in the crust; Vernier
says spices get lost in her crust and sprinkles them over the apple
base. Test both methods to see which one you like best.
Create crumbles: Whether they're using oatmeal or nuts, these chefs
know that adding a texture-rich ingredient separates a memorable
apple crisp from a forgettable dessert. "I like adding oats because
of their nutty flavor and chewy texture. I also think they add to
the rustic-ness of crisps," Vernier says.
Keep a watchful eye: As the kitchen timer runs down, watch the crisp
carefully. You'll know it's finished when it approaches a golden
brown color and the apple filling has started to bubble around the
edges.
by Ashley Gartland, special to The Oregonian
From: Slashfood.Com
