Rigatoni alla zozzona is the decadent pasta mash-up of Roman
Amatriciana (Sugo all'amatriciana is a traditional Italian pasta
sauce based on guanciale (cured pork cheek), pecorino cheese from
Amatrice, tomato, and, in some variations, onion. Originating from
the town of Amatrice it is one of the best known pasta sauces in
present-day Roman cuisine) and carbonara (charcoal burner's) another
Italian pasta dish from Rome made with egg, hard cheese (usually
Pecorino Romano, Parmigiano-Reggiano, or a combination), cured pork,
and black pepper. Spaghetti is the most common pasta, but
fettuccine, rigatoni, linguine, or bucatini are also used. Guanciale
or pancetta are used for the meat component, but lardons of smoked
bacon are a common substitute outside Italy) with a sausage twist.
Rigatoni alla zozzona,is made with with crisp guanciale, juicy
sausage, onion, and tomato simmered in rendered pork fat, this dish
dials up the decadence, which is saying something for a cuisine
that's not exactly known for light fare. Tossed with al dente
rigatoni, it all gets a glossy glow-up with an off-heat addition of
egg yolks and Pecorino Romano.
While Italian cooking is famous for adhering to traditions and
rules, there are plenty of dishes like pasta alla zozzona that
joyously fly in the face of convention. The very term "zozzona"
celebrates and embraces how outrageous this pasta is: In Roman
dialect, "zozza" is a term for "dirty," Rigatoni alla zozzona is a
dirty mess, in the best possible way.
Why It Works
Slowly cooking guanciale and sausage in stages yields crisp morsels
of pork and plenty of flavorful fat to build an emulsified sauce.
Finishing cooking the pasta in the sauce ensures that the noodles
are well-coated and al dente.
Stirring starchy pasta water into a mixture of egg yolks and
Pecorino Romano tempers the eggs, keeping them creamy and smooth
when they are folded into the pasta off-heat.
