3 1/2 lb skin-on, bone-in chicken
- pieces
FOR THE BRINE:
1/3 c kosher salt
3 TB sugar
2 qt water
FOR THE BATTER:
3/4 c potato starch
1 c all-purpose flour
1 TB freshly ground black pepper
2 ts baking powder
1 ts kosher salt
1 ts sweet paprika
1/2 ts cayenne pepper
1 3/4 c water
2 qt vegetable oil, for frying
WHY IT WORKS: A blend of potato starch and wheat flour enhances the
batter's crispiness, inhibits gluten formation, and limits oil
absorption. Dredging the chicken in a fine layer of dry potato starch
prior to battering further limits oil absorption, and yields a crust
that doesn't slough off too easily. Baking powder enhances the
crispiness of the crust and encourages browning. Batter-fried
chicken is something of a rarity.
Batter-fried chicken is cleaner, faster, and requires less effort to
make. Batter also has another benefit, which is it creates a thin,
crispy shell, which you see in the double-fried crust of Korean
fried chicken, and in the light and puffy shell of tempura.
Many recipes for batter-fried chicken recommend using wheat flour or
a combination of wheat flour and cornstarch. In side-by-side
testing, I found that recipes with wheat flour tended to produce a
dense, tough coating that was all too reminiscent of bad tempura
batter. In contrast, recipes that used a blend of wheat flour and
cornstarch were much better, but the coatings were either too
delicate or too brittle.
I turned to potato starch. In a wheat flour-based batter, potato
starch and cornstarch perform a similar function. They both inhibit
gluten formation, limit oil absorption, and produce a crispier
texture. But because of its larger granule size, batters with potato
starch can form a rigid, semi-brittle network when fried that's
crunchier and more robust than a batter made with cornstarch.
Early on in my recipe testing, I tried mixing batters of mostly
potato starch, but these batters produced coatings that were
glass-like and excessively crunchy, and they didn't brown that much,
even after lengthy frying. I got the best results when using a 50-50
blend of potato starch and wheat flour by weight. The wheat flour
facilitates browning, while the potato starch provides structure,
cohesion, and that all important crunch factor.
To limit oil absorption even further, I dredge the chicken in a thin
layer of dry potato starch before dipping the pieces in the batter.
What comes out of the fryer is super crispy fried chicken that's
easier to make than your go-to dry-dredge method, but with a
similarly substantial crust.
For the Brine: In a large bowl or container large enough to hold all
the chicken, whisk salt and sugar in the water until salt and sugar
are dissolved. Add chicken, cover, and refrigerate for at least 2
hours and up to 4 hours. Drain chicken and pat dry with paper
towels.
To Batter and Fry: Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat
oven to 200 F (95 C). In a large Dutch oven or wok, heat oil over
medium-high heat to 375 F (190 C). In a large bowl, thoroughly whisk
together 3/4 cup (144 g) potato starch, all-purpose flour, black
pepper, baking powder, salt, paprika, and cayenne, about 30 seconds.
Whisk in the water until a smooth batter forms, about 30 seconds.
Set a wire rack in a second rimmed baking sheet. Add half of chicken
to batter and toss until well coated. Working with one piece at a
time, lift chicken from batter, allowing any excess batter to drip
back into bowl, and carefully add to hot oil, lowering it gently
from as close to the oil's surface as possible to minimize
splashing; repeat with remaining battered pieces of chicken. Fry
chicken, turning occasionally, until thickest part of breast pieces
registers 155 F (68 C) and drumsticks/thighs registers 165 F (74 C)
on an instant-read thermometer, 8 to 12 minutes for breast pieces
and 10 to 14 minutes for thighs and drumsticks; adjust burner as
necessary to maintain oil temperature between 325 F (160 C) and
350 F (175 C). Transfer chicken to prepared wire rack, season with
salt, and place in oven to keep warm. Return oil to 350 F (177 C)
and repeat battering and frying with remaining chicken. Serve.
Be sure to use unmodified potato starch such as Bob's Red Mill
Premium Quality Unmodified Potato Starch. Using modified potato
starch may produce slightly different results in texture and
appearance.
