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Robot Arena: Design and Destroy (a.k.a. Robot Arena 2)


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CONTENTS:
Given the size of the guide. A code of sorts was made so that you can pop them
into a finder and jump to any particular section.

RA201 INTRO
RA202 VERSION HISTORY
RA203 MINIMUM SYSTEM REQUIREMENTS
RA204 CONTROLS
RA205 ROBOT CONSTRUCTION
RA205A OFFENSE/WEAPONS
RA205AA WEAPON TYPES
RA205AAA RAMS
RA205AAB WEDGES
RA205AAC LIFTERS/LAUNCHERS
RA205AAD CLAMPS
RA205AAE THWACKS
RA205AAF HAMMERS
RA205AAG SIDE HAMMERS
RA205AAH SPEARS/PUNCHERS
RA205AAI SAWS
RA205AAJ BAR/DISC SPINNERS
RA205AAK VERTICAL SPINNERS
RA205AAL DRUMS/THRESHERS
RA205AAM FACE SPINNERS
RA205AAN COMPLEX SPINNERS
RA205AAO FULL-BODY SPINNERS
RA205AAP FULL-BODY DRUMS
RA205AB MISC. WEAPON Q'S
RA205B MOBILITY/DRIVE/MECHANICS
RA205BA MOTOR STATS
RA205BB MISC. MECHANICAL Q'S
RA205BC SELF-RIGHTING/BEING INVERTIBLE
RA205BCA MISC. SRM Q'S
RA205BD AIR MECHANICS
RA205C POWER
RA205D DEFENSE/ARMOR
RA205DA MISC. DEFENSE/ARMOR Q'S
RA205E MISCELLANEOUS COMPONENTS
RA205EA MISC. COMPONENT Q'S
RA206 BATTLE ARENAS
RA206A FIGHTING ARENAS
RA206B TABLE-TOP ARENAS
RA206C KING OF THE HILL ARENAS
RA206D MISC. ARENA Q'S
RA207 GENERAL TACTICS & TIPS
RA208 HAVOC WITH HAVOK
RA209 MULTI-PLAYER/ONLINE
RA210 OTHER Q'S
RA211 CREDITS

RA201 =========================================================================
INTRO:

Robot Arena: Design and Destroy (here in shortened to RA2) is an
action/arcade/simulation game based on the robotic combat events seen on TV. As
of when this was written (late 2003), it is the best of the remote controlled
robot fighting games out there. Customization and versatility are what set it
apart from all those before it.

RA2 is a tough game to write an FAQ for. This isn't a FPS or platform jumper
where I can say "at this point jump on x to kill y" or the like. This game,
(just go with me on this one) is actually closer to and RPG 3D Fighting Game.
"What?[!] Are you @$#%ing nuts?[!]" you say. "This game is nothing like an RPG,
it doesn't have swords and spells and what not!" Ah, but it does have swords
(and axes, for that matter). And spells? Well, depends on what you count a
Havok glitch I suppose... Anyway, just look at it: you start from nothing
and build a mechanical warrior. This warrior will end up having some kind of
weapon type  - very similar to the class system in most RPGs. Implicitly, you
have stats in ways of offense, defense, and control. RPGs have things like
attack, armor, and agility (or something like that). Having said that, [minus
downloaded bots] each and every robot warrior will be unique in some way.

This particular guide is a simpler version of the main FAQ. This one isn't
cluttered by the stats of components or the like. It is more of a general
resource, regardless if you're using the standard version or any of the mods.

RA202 =========================================================================
VERSION HISTORY:

040605 First rendition, a slimmed down version of the main FAQ

RA203 =========================================================================
MINIMUM SYSTEM REQUIREMENTS:

Windows 98/ME/2000/XP
450 MHz Pentium II or higher
64 MB RAM
170 MB Hard Disk Space
4x Speed CD-ROM
16 MB 3D Windows 98/ME/2000/XP compatible graphics card
Windows 98/ME/2000/XP compatible sound card
TCP/IP (LAN or Internet for online play) (DSL, Cable modem or faster)
DirectX 8.1 (included) or higher
Mouse & Keyboard

RA204 =========================================================================
CONTROLS:

Navigation and building is mouse-based.

Any time:
[F11]: take a screen shot

When building:
[shift]: change component position (rotation) by left/right mouse movement
[control]: change component height by left/right mouse movement
[delete]: remove selected component
[right click]: toggles orbiting around robot or component w/ mouse
[mouse wheel]: zoom in/out

The game allows full customization in terms of what controls your robot.
(The default controls for the ready-made  bots use the WASD control system,
with [space-bar] as the weapon)

Match keys:
[Esc]: Pauses game and brings up the match menu
[F1]: Pauses game and shows the current wire controls
[F2]: Orbit camera. defaults to just behind the robot; use left mouse button
    (right button in test area) to change the camera's angle and mouse wheel
    to zoom in and out.
[F3]: Stationary camera. ("Blimp cam")
[F4]: Watch camera (camera automatically tracks and follows bot)

RA205 =========================================================================
ROBOT CONSTRUCTION:

Robot Arena has you make an outline of your chassis, then extrude it. After
that, you place all your components inside this, like a fish tank. This is
somewhat the reverse of real life, where most people start with the components,
and build out. Of course, that would just not be logistically possible. The
downside is that you usually have to know what kind of robot you're building
from the start.

Here are some typical Chassis shapes and how they've usually been used:

Rectangles: everything

Triangles: Wedges, Spinners, Spears
    Triangular wedges become a bit of a plow shape. This becomes useful in
tabletop matches. Some spinners opt to place their weapon head as close to the
apex of the triangle and the drive wheels at the other corners. This often
ensures that the weapon covers the entire front half of the robot. Do note that
angled chassis shapes can make placing components difficult.

T-shapes: Rams, Hammers, Spears, Thwacks
    If the front is the top of the "T," it makes a good shape to setup a
ramming surface. The drive motors are wheels are then mounted behind that,
fairly protected. Thwacks, of course, may set up in the opposite orientation,
such that the lower part of a "T" is the weapon boom.

H-shapes: Clamps, Hammers, Saws, Spears
   In this case, it's not really necessary to make the middle bar in the exact
center. You'll probably want to move it upwards for more lead-in space. An H
shape would be used versus a U/V if you wanted a longer stance for the wheels.

I-shapes: Spinners, Rams
    Here, there's a factor of which orientation is the front. For rams, it's
better to have the top of the "I" as the front making a chassis design similar
to a "T" design, just capped on both ends. Spinners, on the other hand, are
going to want to have the sides be the front, adopting a wide stance. This will
give them much better control of their weapon. In addition, it makes for a huge
area of attack. A real robot known as "Sweet" is a perfect example.

U/V-shapes: Clamps, Saws, Hammers, Vertical Spinners
    As you'll read below, the listed weapon types benefit from immobilizing
the enemy.

Hexagons/Octagons: Wedges, Spinners, Thwacks
    These are similar to a circular chassis [below], but are easier to get
even-sloped edges.

Circles: Spinners (and on occasion a hammer)
    It comes to no surprise that a spinner would adopt a circular chassis, If
you want a more conical shape, you're going to have to un-click the "snap to
grid" box and move them manually. Really though, it's probably just better to
use a hexagon or octagon instead. There isn't much other reason to use a
circular chassis with any of the other weapon types.


Now, repeat after me:

"THERE IS NO PERFECT ROBOT DESIGN."

Say it again.


Seriously, there is no design that will do _everything_. It just is not
possible. Of course, that doesn't mean that there aren't good designs or bad
designs; far from it, but nothing will ever be able to handle all scenarios.
When you construct a robot you have a machine that performs in basically three
different categories: Offense (weapon), Mobility (drive), and Defense (armor)
(OMD). A subset of mobility is self-righting or being invertible. Also, power
factors into Offense and Mobility. If you look at these stats, you can only
distribute so many attributes to each. Of course, in this game it isn't clear
cut and in numbers where you assign values to each stat. In this case, it's
more along degrees of emphasis. After a while, you run out of space or hit the
weight limit. And yes, there is some overlap between them.

All right, let's cover the fun stuff at the front:

RA205A ************************************************************************
OFFENSE/WEAPONS:

In Battlebots, matches are often scored by judges in terms of damage,
aggression, and strategy. RA2, however, tallies up damage and assumes the other
categories. Damage values vary depending on the weapon used and the velocity in
which it is traveling. F=MA. (Force = Mass*Acceleration) Remember that. Also
keep in mind that chassis damage (crunching] is merely cosmetic. It will not
effect the collision shape of the chassis.

While there aren't any official rules regarding weapon building per se, there
are some things to keep in mind if you are to use any machines for online play:

+ In general, employing more than 3 or 4 active weapons is excessive.
+ A vast number of pneumatic pistons will lag
+ Connecting pneumatic pistons to each other is _not_ recommended
+ Don't attach spikes to axle mounts
+ Massive # of spikes or other parts (more than 6-8 is overkill) lag the game
+ Stack motors (attaching the motor axle to another motor) with discretion.
    + 2 Stacked spin motors are dangerous, and more than that is overdoing it.
    + Don't stack burst motors (or burst motors to pistons)
+ Do not make a robot that purposely causes problems with the physics engine.
+ Check with whoever you're playing against regarding custom parts (for one
thing, they have to have them, too). In addition, you have to alter some game
data. Tournaments generally do not allow them.

RA205AA +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
WEAPON TYPES:
These are the basic weapon designs that are common in the world of robotic
combat. Under the type, I've listed real-world examples.

RA205AAA ----------------------------------------------------------------------
RAMS:
EXAMPLES: Tricerabot, Hammerhead, Ogre

For all intents and purposes, your drive train and your weapon motors are one
and the same. You are going to need at least 4 wheel drive for better control
and maximum speed. Ideally you must be invertible and using the most powerful
motors available. Traction is key, so have the wheels with the widest treads.
Place your wheels as far forward and rearward as conveniently possible. This
helps prevent you from losing traction if you get lifted. An alternate strategy
for rams is to employ automotive steering (the powered steering unit). It's a
bit easier to make minute turning adjustments while ramming. Since the unit is
invertible, be sure to have alternate control keys when upside down. This is
much easier than using the standard controls. The front of your machine must be
strong enough to withstand the high-speed rams and the beating that results
while doing so. Having multiple spikes can rack up points quickly and make
aiming less tedious. However, know that in an online battle, the risk of
lagging the battle becomes greater. Be sure to have rails or spikes on your
side plates so you won't get stuck in an embarrassing position.

The ram's greatest weakness is requiring a long charge to cause enough damage.
In addition, with the 4+ wheels, rams are inherently large. This provides a big
target for hammers (and some spears). Vertical spinners may be tough since
ramming one head-on may result in them flipping you over. Often, rams will have
their wheels mounted outside the chassis in order to have maximum internal
space for batteries and motors. Your opponent is going to go after these as
quickly as possible. Put guards of some kind if you can.

STRONG: Spinners, saws,
WEAK: Lifters, Wedges, Hammers, Vertical Spinners

Pro: Nearly unstoppable drive train
Con: Very difficult to control

RA205AAB ----------------------------------------------------------------------
WEDGES:
EXAMPLES: Double Agent, Bad Attitude, Mosquito, War Machine

The most popular design feature on any machine. The idea is to get the wedge
under the opponent and take away their traction, even flip them over. Some
wedges are two wheeled and let the chassis hinge on these wheels, resulting in
a ground scraping front wedge. Others use a parallelogram style wedge which is
advantageous if you get flipped over. Getting the chassis as flat against the
ground as possible is the easiest way to get under the opponent. This is done
with a combination of motor height and wheel choice. Few designs incorporate
just the wedge alone, and in a game defined by points, just the wedge will not
likely be enough to win. However, it always makes for a good, solid back-up
weapon (everyone saw Minion during Season 1, right?). When you get under an
opponent, you are robbing them of their control. The opponent is at your mercy.
Thus, all wedges need a strong drive train. Since the sloping chassis means
less component space, wedges will usually be slower than a ram of the same
original chassis outline.

A wedge gets a disadvantage in that it can't easily reinforce the attacking
surface the same way rams can. Depending on the wedge, see if you can mount
spikes to prevent the opponent from driving over you. This will add damage, but
may cause problems with invertibility. The ground-scraping aspect of a wedge
means that it is easy to lose traction and driving ability if something manages
to lift part of the chassis. It also means they can high-center very easily.

STRONG: Just about everything that can't get under it
WEAK: Hammers, anything lower (lifters, another wedge)

Pro: Simple, yet effective
Con: Little-to-no damage on their own, highly susceptible to attack

RA205AAC ----------------------------------------------------------------------
LIFTERS/LAUNCHERS:
EXAMPLES: Vlad the Impaler, Firestorm, Biohazard; Toro, T-minus, Hexadecimator

Lifters take the concept behind the wedge and actuate it. The default burst
motors in RA are not very strong and can pretty much only do moderate lifting
(especially in the heavier weight classes). Remember, bursts have to lift not
only the [up-to-800kg] opponent, but the attachments, as well. Servos are
generally not usable, although there has been some minor accounts of success
(may need counter-weights). One way to get around this is to have multiple
arms. Light, wide, and low should be your lifter. Of course, obtaining all
three is very difficult. When you try lifting someone, you'll notice that the
amount of force necessary often causes the rear of your bot to rise. In order
to counter-act this, mount outriggers out and under the lifter. The general
strategy for a lifter is to get under the opponent and forcefully
take away their traction, flipping them over or taking them to a hazard. Thus a
similar drive train sufficient for a wedge is recommended. Making a lifter out
of spikes is a good idea, to get some damage points from a lift (it will be
pathetically low, however). Having a pneumatic lifter is possible, but the
pistons have to be aimed straight up. Lifter arms usually fall under two
categories: Upward (standard) and Forward.

Upward arms are the most common type, seen just about everywhere. When
positioning the arms, angle them slightly lower than level with the ground.
This causes some downward force against the playing surface, making it easier
to get under a wedge. It's pretty easy to self-right with the lifting arm
(unless you're Sentinel, apparently).

Forward-style arms are somewhat uncommon, reportedly first pioneered in Robot
Wars UK by a robot called Cassius. The weapon concept lives on in Firestorm.
The design requires a wedge-body. Once the opponent rides up the wedge, the
weapon is fired, which swings forward, away from the chassis. If you make the
arm out of spikes, you also gain the ability to hammer the opponent. A
disadvantage of this weapon type is the abuse the wedge will get.

It is possible to make an arm similar to Biohazard by connecting two burst
motors. Just be aware that it isn't as effective as a true 4-bar lifter arm and
is rather unstable.

Pop-Ups have sprung up as a design solution to the low damage problem of
lifters. The idea is to have combine both the Forward and Upward designs, such
that the arms scissor against the opponent. Pop-ups usually have no less than 3
burst motors inside. The arms are light, usually made of a couple spikes.

By attaching a pneumatic piston to the burst motor, you will get a little bit
more power, plus a more complex lift. This creates something more akin to a
launcher. Since launchers are dedicated to out right flipping the opponent,
supposedly a drive train is not as crucial. However, investing in driving power
is a good idea, especially against machines that are invertible. Typically,
launchers do well in matches with multiple opponents. You can flip one robot,
turn around and flip the next closest robot. Usually, the first opponent needs
time to re-orient him/herself if invertible, or needs time to self-right.

In both cases, your worst enemies are spinners and thwacks. A spinner is going
to be very difficult to get under without risking the loss of your lifter arm.
Thwacks by design are almost impossible to get in a position where a wheel
doesn't touch the ground.

STRONG: Anything non-invertible it can get under
WEAK: Thwacks, Spinners

Pro: Can render an opponent helpless.
Con: Generally low damage,

RA205AAD ----------------------------------------------------------------------
CLAMPS:
EXAMPLES: Huggy Bear, Complete Control, Dead Metal

In this game, clamps are less successful for the same reason that lifter's and
wedges aren't rewarded, but also in that most of the mechanics just aren't
strong enough. There have been some innovative ways of achieving this. So far,
downward jaws seem to be the most successful. The trick is to use burst motors
that start in the "closed" position. Then time the opening of the jaws such
that the return swing closes down on the opponent. Clamps rarely work well on
their own. By combining it with another weapon, like a saw, you can keep your
opponent from moving while your other weapons do damage. Otherwise, this robot
type does best in arenas with hazards. Your drive train will have to be on par
with a lifter, since your going to be moving a huge mass.

Spinners and hammers are your toughest fights. Both are going to rip off the
arms of your robot with the first chance they've got. The worst part is that
getting (and maintaining) a good grip is extremely difficult.

STRONG: Anything small enough to fit in the grab zone
WEAK: Spinners, Hammers,

Pro: (If done well), will give you complete control of the opponent.
Con: Difficult to build effectively.

RA205AAE ----------------------------------------------------------------------
THWACKS:
EXAMPLES: Blade Runner, Herr Gepounden, T-Wrex, Whirligig

Thwacks are almost always two wheeled and invertible. Essentially, they employ
sit-and-spin tactics using just their drive train. Long extenders with a heavy
attachment form the weapon. This can be very destructive. Unfortunately, the
thwack is hindered by not being able to move while spinning. For the AI
opponents, this is fine; the computer will always move in regardless of what
you're doing. Human opponents, however, are much more savvy and will wait for
you to stop spinning. Like the wedge, a thwack exists as one of the easiest
designs to make. It is very difficult to disable by lifters and launchers, and
the shape often makes for a hard target for hammers. Of course, also like the
wedge, the thwack works better as an alternative or back-up weapon since it
relies entirely on your drive train (and if your drive train's dead, so are
you). No, currently, there is no way to employ a Melty-brain or Tornado drive
system in this game (used by Blade Runner and Herr Gepounden to translate while
spinning). Interestingly, a greater width between the two opposing wheels makes
for a faster spin (in real life, the opposite usually happens).

An off shot of the thwack is the overhead thwacks like Overkill and Toe
Crusher. The concept is to have the entire chassis built within the radius of
the wheels minus a single extender. While moving forward, if you suddenly
reverse, the entire chassis spins forward, swinging the weapon. Within the
game's physics, this is just not possible. The only way to accomplish this is
through thwack walkers (using discs or saws as wheels).

In any case, a thwack has several disadvantages. As said, you can't move while
spinning and your opponent can come at you from any direction. Wedges are hard
to fight since your weapon will easily get deflected. It is possible to try
angle your weapon to act as a wedge, although it is difficult to have it at
precisely the right angle to get under the opponent. Lastly, and it's more
dependent on who you're fighting, but thwacks are generally not appreciated
amongst the community.

STRONG: Lifters, boxy robots
WEAK: Rams, Spears, wedges

Pro: Simple to build, good damage
Con: Difficult to drive, limited mobility

RA205AAF ----------------------------------------------------------------------
HAMMERS:
EXAMPLES: Frenzy, Deadblow, Pressure Drop, No Apologies, Diesector, Beta Hurtz

In this game, hammers are solely electric powered. Like thwacks, hammers
utilize kinetic energy and bring their weapon down onto the opposing robot. The
easiest way to achieve this is to use burst motors. Unfortunately, none of the
burst motors allow for a full 180 degree swing (somewhere around 120-150
degrees). In addition, the default burst motors lack sufficient power to fully
self-right on a return swing. You can often be able to right yourself if the
hammer is fully retracted (the AI does this).

An alternative to burst motors is to use spin motors like Diesector or Frenzy.
Unfortunately, this usually results in less damage. For a faster swing, it is
best to employ a counterweight (like a sledge hammer head) on the opposite end
of the hammer arm. Unfortunately, the ability to self-right is not guaranteed
(depends on how well-balanced it is). Often times, the hammer arm has to be
constantly swinging, almost like a spinner when it is flipped. This design
often ends up being rather tall in order to allow the counter weight to swing
underneath. Of course, if you mount them like Diesector and be fully
invertible, than it shouldn't be a problem. One thing you will encounter is to
be careful on the return swing. The hammer head is going to strike the floor,
damaging the head. If you're not careful, the weapon might break and then
you're sunk.

Control is the key for your robot. Watching the TV show(s), you've probably
noticed one of the problems of hammers is that they often miss. Do not mount
your hammer on a turret. Your aim will go out the window. Your drive train
should be enough that you can turn and aim your robot in a controllable manner.
It is a good idea to make the front of your robot into a "v" or otherwise have
a forward indentation to lead your opponent into the kill zone. Of course, this
means it can lead your opponent's weapons into this region as well, so
reinforce appropriately. More than any other weapon type, driving skill is
important. Rams and spinners (all of them) can count on their weapons to take
the brunt of a forward charge. Even spears can rely on their weapon's speed and
rush in (not that I recommend this tactic, mind you). Hammers can't do that.
Blitzing an opponent will just get the front end of your machine crunched and
possibly even your weapon arm ripped off.

On the plus side, hammers are one of the best counter-attacks to a wedge bot. A
wedge surface presents itself as a huge target. Since a wedge is sloped, and
low to the ground, you often get the full stroke (swing) of your weapon,
causing maximum damage. It is very difficult and it depends on their weapon
mounts, but hammers can often get good shots at a vertical spinners weapon
motor(s). Just make sure your reach is longer than his weapon radius. It is
also the ideal weapon for hitting enclosed wheels.

When facing another hammer robot, it comes down to control and who has better
positioning (and timing). Spears can be a nightmare for hammers. They too are
going to be utilizing control and positioning. However, they have speed on
their side. A spear can usually get in at least twice as many hits and each
strike is going to bounce your bot around, messing up your aim. Spinners can be
tough, just make sure you start striking after you've stopped their weapon.

STRONG: Robots with a large, exposed  roof (usually rams and wedges) and/or
    lots of extenders
WEAK: Spinners, Spears, other Hammers

Pro: Good against Wedges and Rams.
Con: Moderate damage, requires good driving skill

RA205AAG ----------------------------------------------------------------------
SIDE HAMMERS:
EXAMPLES: none that are famous

A variation on the hammer bot is mounting them sideways. This is typically done
in pairs and has the two weapon heads converge somewhere in front. This is
about as close as this game comes to a crusher. For some reason, this has not
been implemented much in the real world. In a way, the design is somewhat like
combining a hammer and a thwack (plus a little bit of a clamp). This particular
type of weapon is a bit difficult to analyze since there are few examples.

Unlike normal hammers, side hammers don't have the advantage over wedges. They
do however possess easier invertibility. Side hammers have a very large attack
zone since they're traveling horizontally, not vertically. While you won't have
the damage values of a spinner, the range is very handy. As such, you don't
necessarily need as much finesse while driving. You can also sometimes thwack
with them if necessary.

STRONG: boxy machines.
WEAK: wedges

Pro: Easier to aim and attack than overhead hammers
Con: Moderate damage.

RA205AAH ----------------------------------------------------------------------
SPEARS/PUNCHERS:
EXAMPLES: Rammstein, Rhino

In this game, are solely pneumatic. The game mechanics don't possess the
ability to pierce the opponent. Instead, the idea is taking the ram bot's
tactics and miniaturizing it down to just the weapon. This makes spears
slightly easier to control since backing off and ramming isn't required (but
helps). In fact, combining a ram bot chassis with pneumatic punchers is highly
recommended. Ideally, reach is the advantage of a punch bot, striking from a
safe distance. Spears also have a speed advantage; they posses fastest attack
rate in the game.

This type fairs well in arenas with pits, allowing you to safely knock an
opponent into a hazard without the danger of overshooting (like a ram bot
does). Spear bots posses a small weapon profile -- often resembling a ram bot
array, making them less susceptible to spinners. In fact, with this game, you
can even hide the spike inside the chassis as a surprise attack. Of course,
savvy opponents will be suspicious, since your air gage is full. The easiest
opponent is one with box-like chassis and/or exposed wheels. Thwacks and rams
predominately fall into this category. You also get an edge against hammers,
being able to knock the opponent back and mess up the aim.

An alternative idea used by the an old robot called La Machine. The main weapon
was a wedge, but at the top was a pneumatic piston. Once the robot got
underneath the opponent, the piston was fired, doing some damage and also
usually flips the opponent over. It's similar in concept to a forward lifter.

A disadvantage of spears is an even narrower attack range than hammers. This
can be compensated by having more pistons or more surfaces that are extended
(or a combination of both). Keep in mind, however, that this creates a danger
of creating massive lag on online games. Thus, only have as many pistons as
necessary (usually no more than 4). As with hammers, control is key. Spears
have a psychological disadvantage. Your opponent knows that you need a separate
source of power for your weapon. This means that your drive train, battery
power or armor is comparatively weaker to a ram bot of the same type. Wedges
are a difficult target since your attack will more likely bounce off and up.
This will knock your robot up into the air, often resulting in the wedge
gaining the upper hand.

STRONG: Boxy robots (thwacks, rams), some hammers and face spinners
WEAK: Wedges,

Pro: Fastest attack in the game. Extended pushing ability
Con: Narrow and limited attack potential, requires a separate power source

RA205AAI ----------------------------------------------------------------------
SAWS:
EXAMPLES: the Master, Anklebiter (season 1-4), Ginsu, SOB, Low Blow

In real life, saws suck virtually outright. In this game, they fair a little
better. Saws do a small amount of damage in a short amount of time. The goal
then is to keep the opponent in place long enough for the points to rack up.
The Battlebot SOB is a good design to base from. This involves a saw mounted on
servo arm. The weapon can be raised out of harms way and only be brought in
when you have a good hold on the opponent. Alternately, you can try mounting
them in the front of the wedge like Ankle Biter so that your wedge has extra
bite, even maybe flipping the opponent. The robot Low Blow employed an
interesting tactic of mounting the saw horizontally on top of a dome-like
chassis. However, in this game, you might as well just make it a spinner.
Compared to a spinner of similar diameter, the saw is lighter, possibly ideal
for the lower weight classes.

Given their lackluster reputation in the real world and only moderate status in
the game, your opponent will probably not regard your weapon as very dangerous.
Saws are incredibly easy to knock off (by hammers and vertical spinners if
horizontal, and thwacks, spinners, and side hammers, if vertical). Do not use
them as drive wheels (like Ginsu) unless absolutely necessary. Your traction
and pushing ability is greatly reduced. In addition, they will be constantly
taking damage from the arena.

STRONG: Any robot that you can get to stop moving
WEAK: Just about anything else

Pro: "Spinner lite"
Con: Small damage, easily damaged

RA205AAJ ----------------------------------------------------------------------
BAR/DISC SPINNERS:
EXAMPLES: Mauler, Hazard, Malvolio, Hypno-disc, Surgeon General

Spinners are generally regarded as the most destructive machines in robotic
combat. It is basically the kinetic energy achieved by a hammer or a thwack,
except continuous and separate from the drive train. Spinners come in just
about any flavor. The advantage of spinners is that typically the spinner has a
large attack radius. This is an area that your opponent is going to try his/her
best to get around. If your spinner is all-encompassing (surrounds the
chassis), you effectively have an extra layer of armor -- a weapon that
functions as both offense and defense. Take a note, that as your spinner gets
up to speed, the chassis's going to want to turn in the opposite direction of
the rotating mass. How hard you turn depends on the mass of the spinner and the
motor powering it. Once it reaches full speed, control usually stabilizes. Just
know that this means that when you hit the opponent, you may have steering
problems afterwards as the spinner gets back up to speed. Jimxorb has
discovered that using servos as part of the drive train, can help steady the
robot. You may opt to shut off the spinner at the last second before impact and
then be able to retreat in a controlled manner.

The psychological aspects of a spinner against an opponent vary. The opponent
is generally going to be fearful (at worst, respectful) of your weapon and will
avoid it at all costs. On the other hand, some opponents (such as a ram bot)
may bite the bullet and just go straight at you. They know your weapon is the
result of sacrifices -- even neglect -- to your drive train. They have superior
pushing ability and will try to move you into a hazard or stop the spinner by
pinning you against a wall. They will also hope they can knock off a part of
your spinner, causing the spinner to become unbalanced or even come off
entirely. This will basically neuter your weapon since an unbalanced spinner is
in danger of spinning out and "pulling a Mauler." (For those who don't know,
it's like a watching a spinning coin backwards). It is often a good idea to
have both an analog switch and digital switches for your spinner. An analog
switch will allow you to spin at a slower speed, preventing a spin-out. Wedges
pose a problem depending on how low your spinner is mounted. Machines like
Hazard and Malvolio compensate by having wedges of their own. Malvolio also
employs mounting the bar at an angle, resulting in a lower kill area. Of
course, he loses the ability to strike anyone at his rear and sides. If you are
going to use an angled spinner, be sure to have some weapons to deter any
hammer robots aiming for the center connector. The steeper the angle (more than
45 degrees), the more your spinner becomes akin to a face spinner (see below).
Another machine, Code Black, has his blade mounted almost flush with the
ground. This makes getting under it virtually impossible, as well as gives him
perfect shots at his opponents wheels. This particular type is known as an
"Under-cutter." However, they can be difficult to build [effectively].

In general, you're going to want to hit the opponent depending on which
direction you're spinning. If you're spinning left (counter-clockwise), you
should hit the left side [his left, your right] of the opponent. This will
knock the front end away from you, usually giving you access to his sides and
rear. In a spinner vs. spinner scenario [both normal or vertical), it usually
comes down to what your weapons are and where they're located.

Within Horizontal Spinners, weapon setups can be broken down into a few
categories: Blades/Bars, Discs, Cages, Shells.

Blades and Bars (Hazard, Malvolio) are single rod-like spinner shapes. Blades
are usually when they're straight, bars can be any shape (curved, etc). In this
game, most Bar spinners have 2-3 appendages. Using a T connector or a Tribar,
these components will result in a comparatively lighter weapon. This means
faster spin-up times or weight that can be distributed elsewhere. [Long] Bars
are among the easiest spinners to stop. Also, since they have such a small
profile, it is very easy for the chassis to be attacked. The weapon itself
though, is often very durable (partially because it is hard to hit).

Discs (Surgeon General, Hypnodisc) are one step up from bars. Usually
possessing 2-4 weapon heads (although the game gives you 8 attachment points,
using all 8 is difficult). A disc is heavier, and in this case more versatile
given the sizes available. However, it is easier to hit than a bar. This does
mean more protection from hammer bots. The rim of the disc can also keep robots
away from your chassis. Take your pick, do you risk taking damage to the
chassis, but have most of your weapon (bar). Or do you let your weapon take the
hit, saving your control board, but risk losing your weapon. An advantage of
discs in real robot combat, but not recommended in the game, is that discs can
be used to push around the opponent.

Cage (Whyachi) are similar to a bar spinner, but with connections to prevent
easy access to the chassis. These are difficult to build in the game. The cage
often prevents rams and some spears from getting to your chassis, but hammers
can usually get past it.

Shells (Ziggo, Phrizbee/Shredderator) are very difficult to make with standard
parts, but mean all-around protection from the sides and top. Shells are
extremely heavy, often meaning the weakest drive trains aside from FBS's. Lots
of attacking surfaces and lots of armor pieces make these tough to attack.
Beware the lifter that tries to get at your belly plate. The DSL:TC mod is the
best way to make this spinner variant.

STRONG: any opponent with lots of external attachments (hammers, thwacks,
    lifters, saws)
WEAK: Well-armored ram bots, wedges, other spinners

Pro: Damaging power surpassed only by FBS's
Con: Usually weak drive trains, difficult to control during spin-up,

RA205AAK ----------------------------------------------------------------------
VERTICAL SPINNERS:
EXAMPLES: Nightmare, Backlash, Garm, 259, Heavy Metal Noise

You've seen them on TV: the vertical discs of Nightmare and Backlash. A good
vertical spinner (spinning upwards) becomes something of a launcher, but also
has the damage qualities of a spinner. See the fight between Nightmare and Slam
Job as an example. You're going to want to have something directly under the
central axis of the spinning mass. For Backlash, you've seen that he has
casters in this location. This prevents the weapon from slamming into the floor
when you hit an opponent (it's also going to want to pitch forward when you
spin up, so distribute weight accordingly). You will also notice that Nightmare
has a wide stance and that Backlash has had these long balancing rods sticking
out the sides. These are designed to help keep the robot upright as it turns.
Adding side stabilizers will help in a big way.

One of the disadvantages of a vertical spinner is that it's attack zone
is fairly narrow. This means that you have to work harder to keep your weapon
aimed at your opponent (which is a bit ironic, given how hard it is to turn).
One way to compensate is to have multiple discs. This is recommended since with
just one disc, your robot can become side-heavy and easily tips over. Of course
the more discs you have, the more it is like a drum. The disc or bar on a
vertical spinner is inherently large, often at least twice the height of your
chassis. This makes being invertible difficult since ideally, your drive wheels
should be directly below the axis of the spinner. In this case, a reverse
switch for your spinner and hit it any time you start to leave the ground. This
is usually enough to keep yourself from flipping. It's also often enough flip
yourself back over if it happens, by striking the ground enough times.

Yes, it is possible to mount your drive motors in a way to achieve an angled
chassis like Nightmare. An RA2 robot known as Digital Apocalypse designed by
TDS is reportedly the first to achieve something like this. An interesting
design, DA also utilizes a powered steering unit at his rear, which vastly
makes turning ability more controllable. Bare in mind, however, this is one of
the most unstable robot designs. It is very easy to turn too quickly with this
design and the gyro-forces will flip you over. You may want to have your drive
axles inward oriented, this will slow down turning ability, but maintain
forward/backward strength.

Of all the weapon types, vertical spinners seem to be the most common to have
stacked motors. As stated, this can be dangerous. You risk being very unstable
and a complete physics anomaly.

Wedges are tough for vertical spinners since they require a surface to catch
on to be really effective. Hence, a pyramidal machine is a very difficult
target. Of course, one way to counter this is with a wedge of your own.
Historically, vertical spinners have not done well against horizontal spinners.
Basically, all you can do is slam hard and hope you flip him over. Hammer bots
with long reach may pose a problem, as they will be aiming for your
weapon motor, which is not easy to protect.

STRONG: Boxy robots, robots with lots of attachments
WEAK: Wedges, (some hammers & spinners)

Pro: High damage, upwards lift (flipping)
Con: Narrow attack zone, tall, unstable.

RA205AAL ----------------------------------------------------------------------
DRUMS/THRESHERS:
examples: Little Drummer Boy, El Diablo

An off-shot of the vertical spinner is the drum. By default, there is no drum
attachment. However, a make-shift drum can be achieved by taking a disc and
attaching wide weapon types to the edges (such as pick axes or lawnmower
blades). Downloadable components are also available. The advantage of a drum is
a wider attack zone. Almost always, the entire front of the robot becomes a
weapon. Generally smaller in diameter, drums do smaller hits, but reach top
speed much faster as well as easier to make invertible. It's common to see them
adopting ram-style chassis shapes. It is also easier to protect the spinner
motor. This usually removes the weakness hammers can exploit on vertical
spinners. As with vertical spinners, make sure you have some support underneath
the drum. Otherwise, during a hit, the drum will hit the arena floor. If the
motor is strong enough, it could very well start to flip the bot over.

However, the lower, wider chassis shape is just begging to be hit. Wedges are
tough for this design as well.

STRONG: Boxy robots, robots with lots of attachments
WEAK: Wedges

Pro: Better attack zone than vertical spinners
Con: Smaller damage,

RA205AAM ----------------------------------------------------------------------
FACE SPINNERS:
EXAMPLES: B.O.B., 911

Face spinners are kind of a cross between a vertical spinner and a drill. They
have the vertical spinner or drum's ability to toss a robot (on the edge that
spins up). Of course, this means that the other edge is striking down. One way
to compensate for this is to have at least 2 counter-rotating spinners on the
front of your robot. Don't make your spikes or striking appendages all the same
size. Have one set act as a protection for the disc, while another set is for
attack. The idea is to get enough spacing to achieve high damage points.

Like the drum, face spinners take up a good portion of the front end of the
robot. In addition, they are generally small in size, which makes for an
invertible design. Being small and numerous, face spinners are hard to stop.
This also means you can add more power to your drive train.

Unlike drums, spear bots have an advantage over face spinners in that they have
a clean shot at the center of your discs. Such a tactic would require superior
control and near-perfect aim. This is rare (especially online), but it is
reasonable to consider this scenario. Know which part of the disc is spinning
downward. This will make a big difference against a wedge, as the side that
spins down is going to pop your bot in the air, giving the wedge the advantage.

STRONG: Boxy robots, robots with lots of attachments
WEAK: wedges, spears

Pro: A bit more stable than vertical spinners and drums (driving wise)
Con: Often limited in size (and hence, damage)

Ra205AAN ----------------------------------------------------------------------
COMPLEX SPINNERS:
Examples: (virtually impossible nor practical in real life)

Here is an interesting design. These are not quite the same as a stacked motor,
but the concept is similar. Complex spinners can be either parallel or
perpendicular. Starting out from a horizontal spinner (a vertical source just
self-destructs), stick either a disc or bar, then mount another set of motors.
If the axles of this second set are still like horizontal spinners, then this
is the parallel variety. Perpendicular are if axles are angled outward (90
degrees to the source), like rotating face spinners. The advantage of this
design is that even if the main spinner is stopped by a ram, the outer spinners
often still rotate. (The Battlebot AI pack's Phrizbee and a some of the
Starcore bots are complex spinners)

Strong: Boxy, exposed chassis bots
Weak: Well-armored machines

Pro: Very difficult to completely stop
Con: Difficult to build, incredibly unstable



RA205AAO ----------------------------------------------------------------------
FULL-BODY SPINNERS:
EXAMPLES: Y-POUT & Why-Not (sort of)

Basically, this is a thwack that has translating ability. One way to achieve
this is to have an axle in the center of the base plate. Mounted to this are a
pair of servos. These become the drive motors. Mount some high-powered motors
on the outer edges. Set a switch that spins the outer motors in a single
direction and wire the servos like a drive train. This will cause the chassis
to spin at high speed, but the servos will remain stationary.

There is an alternative, which involves weight distribution, but the creator,
TDS, hasn't released his secrets, yet. You can try figuring it out if you want.

The strengths and weaknesses of this type of machine are the same as a spinner,
just extreme in both directions. Since the entire chassis is spinning, this
means a high-speed ~700kg machine of doom (these machines will invariably be
heavy weights). Normal spinners only get 1-2 (at most 3) motors powering their
weapons. A full body spinner has as many drive motors as you can fit into a
chassis (generally 4-6). This means extremely high spin speed without the
problems of stacking motors. People employing this design have had hits in
excess of 2000 points (one record of over 6000).

A disadvantage of this type of machine is that your drive train is pitiful if
you're using the servos. In fact, it's likely the worst drive train possible
(you will have zilch in the pushing department). Having a separate control for
the spin motors to act as drive motors is a good back-up plan. Of course, since
you're hitting with such high damage, there is a higher likelihood of breaking
your own robot's attachments with that same hit.

STRONG: [Weak-armored] Boxy robots, robot with lots of attachments.
WEAK: Well-armored ram bots, wedges

Pro: Quite possibly the most damaging weapon type
Con: The weakest drive train, can seriously hurt itself with the same hit

RA205AAP ----------------------------------------------------------------------
FULL-BODY DRUMS:
EXAMPLES: Daffodil

Currently, this design has yet to be successful. The idea is to make a
cylindrical chassis. Mount the weapon motors, one facing the base, the other
facing the top. Your drive motors are then attached to the weapon motors. You
then have to get the robot to fall on its side. The chassis  becomes a gigantic
drum. The trick is preventing both drive pods from spinning. Also, since you're
tipping it on its side, control setup becomes problematic. You could do it with
a long rectangular chassis, I suppose.

STRONG: n/a
WEAK: n/a

Pro: (Bragging rights?)
Con: Currently unsuccessful design

RA205AB +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
MISC. WEAPON Q'S:
Q: Why can't I get my wedge under the opponent?
A: (Crazy sub-conscious says that sounds wrong... ) Try putting some ballast
in that particular section. This should weigh down that part of the chassis,
getting it lower and also should make it harder for the opponent to get
leverage. Keep in mind that batteries (for some reason) do not appear to have
any effect on weight distribution. Also try putting a caster on the opposite
end of the chassis to angle the front (or whichever side the wedge is on) down.

Q: Can I make hinged wedges/skirts?
A: No. Attaching a wedge on an axle mount will not work. The fact that the
game drops the robot a short distance before a fight often causes the wedges
to fold underneath itself, rendering them useless. Lu-Tze and the Ubermod have
come up with hinges, but really they're just extremely weak servos.

Q: Why would I stack motors?
A: RA2 lacks the ability to use chains or belts to have multiple motors power
an axle (as is common in real robot combat). Everything must be directly
mounted. RA2 builders have tried getting around this by stacking motors to get
increased speed and power. Despite this, the robot is going to be highly
unstable and often possesses a long spin-up time.

Q: How do I stack motors?
A: Stick a connector (most use "T" connectors) between the axle of the first
motor and the attachment point of the second one.

Q: What about the cannon, flame thrower and the magnet?
A: Those weapon types are available only after you use the cheatbot code.
They are not available online, so there's no real point in discussing them.
(Besides, they suck for the most part).

Q: Are there any weapon types [popular in real robot combat] you're not
covering here?</pre><pre id="faqspan-2">
A: Yes. They are: Crushers (because the default mechanics can't achieve it),
Drills (because they suck more than saws)

RA205B ************************************************************************
MOBILITY/DRIVE/MECHANICS:

Battlebot builder Christian Carlberg once said that drive train is the most
important part of the robot. You can see where he's coming from, in that as
long as you can move you won't get counted out.
More often than not, your weapon choice determines the type of drive train you
have. Other factors are the shape of you chassis and weight class.

This is a wheel number break down (that are touching the ground):
2 WHEELS: pretty much used for thwacks, as well as some hammers and spinners.
    Driving in a straight line is difficult. Turning often over-shoots
3 WHEELS: you are on crack 8P, Really, some do this to increase translation
    speed and to slow down turning (ideal for spinners). If you try building
    an auto-steering bot (aka Ackerman steering), you may need to put counter-
    weights on the opposite side.
4 WHEELS: good all-around. It may have some turning problems due to slippage.
    Again, might be good for spinners, and to keep hammers from over-turning
6 WHEELS: This is a fine compromise of turning and translating speed.
    However, this is a lot of dedication to the drive train, so your weapon
    and armor may start to suffer.
8 OR MORE: You are almost certainly building a ram. With all those wheels and
    motors, you're not going to have much for other active weapons.

Omni-Drive: This is a design that employs 4 motors (I suppose 3 or 6 could
work, as well), each at the corners of the chassis in an "X" shape. The result
is (with some additional wiring setups) the ability to side-step or "strafe" as
it is commonly known amongst FPS (first person shooters). The disadvantage of
this system is that the translation (forward, backward, & side-to-side) power
of the robot is greatly reduced compared to another machine with the same
motors mounted parallel. The only real up-side other than the novelty of side
movement is a very fast turn speed (ideal for thwacks).

Walkers: It is very difficult to build a walker in this game, and there's not
much incentive, given the lack of a bonus weight allowance present in most
robotic competitions. There are three types of walkers:
Thwack rollers, which are discs or tri-bars with weapon heads attached. These
are technically illegal walkers by Battlebot rules. They aren't much better
than using saws as wheels.
Shufflers, are long bars that cam using axle mounts.
True Walkers, incredibly difficult to make and exceedingly unstable.

RA205BA +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
MOTOR TYPES:

SPIN MOTORS:
There are used for spinning wheels or weapons. Any of the controls (analog,
switch, button) can be wired to these.

BURST MOTORS
These will be your motors to self-right and/or lift/hammer with. These can only
have a button wired to them. They have also been cleverly been used to mount
spinner motors in positions the game would normally not allow (intersecting the
chassis, for example). Just know that it will probably wobble a bit.

SERVO MOTORS
These items are unique in that they resist any outside force and usually stay
in the position they are in. In general, servos are for a slow, controlled way
of changing the position of something. Usually it's adjusting the angle of a
weapon head.

RA205BB +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
MISC. MECHANICAL Q'S:

Q: Why don't you get detailed about some of this stuff?
A: The game came with a great set of tutorials to help you (there's a folder
marked as such in the RA2 directory)

Q: I've seen many robots with motors mounted externally. Why should I do this?
A: The quick answer is simply because the part doesn't fit inside the allotted
chassis space. (Or, you're building a DA/Nightmare vertical spinner) However,
many people have found that by putting a motor outside, space that would have
normally been needed to accommodate it can either be eliminated altogether (to
save weight) or be used for something else (more power sources for example).
And as said, motors externally mounted aren't limited by the chassis shape. The
disadvantage that come with this is the increased vulnerability of your motors.
In order to protect them, often a rather elaborate framework of extenders is
needed. In addition, it increases the likely-hood of a havok explosion.
Spinners are the most common weapons type to employ this method.

RA205BC +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
SELF-RIGHTING/BEING INVERTIBLE:
Don't ever assume you can't be flipped over. Sure, you might have a design
where the other robots might not be able to flip you completely over, but
consider things like the hellraisers in the Octagon Arena and the dreaded Havok
explosions. You cannot travel the road of Bio-hazard, who is not invertible,
and just make it hard to get under you.

Not to re-word an old car slogan, but "Lower is better." This makes it much
easier to be invertible, plus it makes for a lower center of gravity, so the
risk of being flipped is reduced.
General rule of thumb is to make your robot invertible if possible. There are
several ways to do this:

One way is to simply use wheels that have a diameter large enough to stick out
enough on both the top and bottom. The problem inherent with this method is
that when you get flipped, you're controls are now reversed. Unlike what most
builders do, you can't just flip a switch and invert your controls (and if you
can, I want to know where you got it). The counter for this is to have another
set of controls. This means you have to have an extra 2 slots in the control
box. Generally this is not a problem, however this often limits you to using
the keyboard.

Another method is to have an extra set of free-spinning wheels towards the top.
This set of wheels are wired in such a way that when flipped, you can still
drive normally without changing controls. The Robot Wars bot Pussy Cat follows
this idea. The problem with this method is that at a given time, this set of
motors will drain battery power even if they're not touching the ground.

There also has been methods that mount the motors on servos or linear actuators
that changes the drive train layout of the robot. There are a few problems with
this. One is that often the controls are still reversed depending on how
they're mounted. Also consider that servos are painfully slow, meaning there
are precious seconds in which you are vulnerable trying to reconfigure. Lastly,
this is a lot of complicated attachments to the drive train, compromising
weapons, armor, etc. Tacking on to that, all those parts will increase the lag
in online play.

For self-righting, the sure-fire way is to use burst motors. It's usually
pretty simple, just follow something similar to Minion or Hypnodisc.

Don't use the burst pistons for self-righting. It's a flaw in the physics
engine which doesn't follow Newton's 3rd law. That is, the every action causes
equal reaction. In this case, there's no reaction. Most of the times, firing
the pistons results in nothing. Although if you follow that logic, you could
theoretically try mounting the piston the opposite way to try to shift enough
weight to flip over.

If anything, at least make sure you can move around after being flipped.
Vertical spinners could use their weapon disc, spears can scoot around by the
burst pistons.

For spinners and some Face spinners, you can use something akin to Ziggo's
flag. Mount somewhere in the chassis an extender that offsets the bot when it's
upside down such that the spinning causes it to flip over. You do not want this
mounted in the center for easier righting. If you have it either tall enough or
sufficiently offset, this can actually apply to some of the other weapon types
as long as a wheel also touches the ground. At this point, all you have to do
is spin in place at full speed. Eventually centripetal acceleration will get
you back on both wheels.

If your spinner is mounted on a burst motor, than you usually can just use that
to self-right. You do run the risk of breaking your spin motor.

RA205BCA ----------------------------------------------------------------------
MISC. SRM Q'S:

Q: Why should I build a self-righting mechanism or make my robot invertible?
[Favorite Robot] doesn't have anything like that.
A: [Favorite Robot]'s builder also likely spent at least $800 (usually in
excess of $2000) and at least a month of designing and actual building. You
spent ~$20 [plus S&H] and maybe 1-3 hours before you had a good working robot.
Even then, you'll notice that builders are trying to build self-righting
capability into their machine more and more.

RA205BD +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
AIR MECHANICS:

Think of the air mechanics this way:
The electric motors all make a rotational movement of some kind.
Pistons, air servos & linear actuators change in a linear motion.

Burst Pistons
Burst pistons are for extending something in a split second and then quickly
retract. This is the core concept behind the spear-type weapons. You lash out
quickly at the opponent, or reach further than he can.

SERVO PISTON
Similar to the burst piston, just now the in-out is [slowly] controlled.

LINEAR ACTUATOR
Similar to the servo piston, these have the sliding part on the side instead.

RA205C ************************************************************************
POWER:

This is a supplement of both weapons and mobility. Batteries and air tanks are
the source of energy that allows these systems to run. Without power, you can't
move nor have an effective weapon. One way to think about the power system is
like a giant dam full of water. When the dam is full there is much more pres-
sure than when it is half full. The same applies to the power meters. Once the
meter goes down, your strength will start to decrease. Power levels are maxed
out at the beginning of every match (and by default, there is no way to get
back lost power).

RA205D ************************************************************************
DEFENSE/ARMOR:

This is an area that often gets the least bit of attention when building a
robot. There are 4 armor sets (plastic, aluminum, titanium and steel) which
increase in toughness and weight. It is also a good practice to use
ram plates, snow plows and/or some weapon heads to create an extra layer of
protection. This applies especially to spinners, who tend to dedicate more
weight towards their weapon.

There's a typo in the manual. The left number is the weight and the right
number is the strength.

ARMOR VALUES:

PLASTIC
STRENGTH: 80
WEIGHT: 8
Unless you're in the low weight classes (or building an ant), you had better
have sufficient external protection.

ALUMINUM
STRENGTH: 100
WEIGHT: 12
Default armor and about average. You can certainly get by in any of the weight
classes with it. Besides, I like the texture 8P.

TITANIUM
STRENGTH: 150
WEIGHT: 16
An in between of steel and aluminum.

STEEL
STRENGTH: 175
WEIGHT: 20
Strong, but as one can imagine, very heavy. Take note, that the heavier the
robot, the more work your motors have to do.

RA205D ************************************************************************
MISCELLANEOUS COMPONENT NOTES:

Some parts have weird collision values, so if something won't fit, rotate it on
its mount -- sometimes that works.

RA205DA +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
MISC. COMPONENT Q'S:

Q: How do I attach a component in a different orientation?
A: All right, when you select a component you will notice that a small cube is
glowing bright green. This is an attachment point. Depending on the part, you
can see other cubes, just a duller shade of green. You may have to rotate the
part using the right mouse button. By clicking (left mouse button) on any of
the dull green cubes will highlight it. This now makes it the current
attachment point. Anyone who has played the game Roboforge will be slightly
familiar with this process.

Q: Where do I get all this custom stuff?
A: See the links section.

Q: What is this "sub-lowest" height you keep talking about?
A: There's the [generally accepted] lowest chassis height, which is what you
get when you scroll the slider all the way to the bottom. However, there is a
trick to go even lower. Raise the slider to maximum, and then click on the area
for lowest height. The slider should jump to that position, but the chassis
will be much thinner.

RA206 =========================================================================
BATTLE ARENAS/EVENTS:

Well, you've made your bots, but it won't do much good staying in your team's
"garage." You've now have take it and test its might and metal in battle!
(Note: Any setting changes done in exhibitions carries over to the events)

RA206A ************************************************************************
NORMAL ARENAS:

Deathmatches:
In these types of events you battle it out against a single opponent to the
death! The match ends when either one of you dies, gets counted out, falls
into a pit, or time runs out (default at 3 minutes). In events, you will get
30 minutes to make repairs to your machine between each match. Anything that
got knocked off during a battle automatically takes 20 minutes to repair, so
be careful in your fights. Unlike the Robot Wars games, you cannot partially
repair things. A death match event will have you in four matches as the
tournament tree runs down. As far as I can tell, the winner of the AI battles
on the other sides of the tree are completely random.
Team Deathmatch is similar, just a 2-on-2 or 2-on-1. I don't think there's a
way to set up a 3-on-1

Battle Royale
This features you versus 3 other robots at the same time in the arena. Other
than that, the same rules in deathmatches apply here. In events, there are
only 2 matches, but a grand total of 6 robots go towards your kill score. Take
note that the kill score is based solely on matches won. Even if you killed
two robots, but lost the match, you won't get credit for those kills. A royale
can be tough since the likelihood of something breaking on your robot is
greater when facing multiple opponents. Yes, you still only get 30 minutes
between matches. As such, spinners are not recommended for these types. You can
try alleviating this by playing vulture or leading the AI into each other (they
usually just attack the nearest robot).
(Note: I will generally refer to these as "Rumbles" which is the Battlebot
term for putting multiple robots in the arena)


RA206B ************************************************************************
TABLE-TOP ARENAS:

If you've seen Robotica, this game type is similar to the "Fight to the finish"
without any guard rails. You start on an elevated platform and have to knock
your opponents over the edge before they do. The scoring system is the same as
the deathmatches/rumbles so you can kill opponents the old fashioned way. Rams,
wedges and lifters shine in these events. In general, spinners should not be
entered. Drums and face spinners are usually ok. For vertical spinners, it's
dependent on the drive train and weapon shape/size. If you're a DA/Nightmare
type of machine, you might not want to enter.

RA206C ************************************************************************
KING OF THE HILL ARENAS:

Seemingly very simple, the idea is the get to the top of the hill and stay
there for as long as possible. The scoring system is different here. You get 10
points for about every half-second you (and you alone) are at the top. The
points are given by the location of your chassis, not your
extensions/weapon(s). Like tables, rams, wedges and lifters fair the best.
Obviously, since they're hills, ground clearance is a big issue.
You don't get any points for damaging the opponents, but you also don't get any
damage indicators. This makes determining your condition difficult. You can
still kill your opponents, but it isn't the focus of this arena type. By
default, these are four-player as well.

RA206D ************************************************************************
MISC. ARENA/EVENT Q'S

Q: How many seasons are there?
A: Infinite. You can keep playing  til you die (Although on my game the kill
count is unreadable after about 1700). No, there are no bonuses or what-not
after playing so many seasons.

Q: Isn't there a repair cheat?
A: In the original release, yes. You could click to the main menu and then
click back to resume the event, getting another 30 minutes of repair time. The
patch fixes this.

Q: Any other cheats?
A: Well, if you think about it, if you're losing a match you can just terminate
the program (hit the Windows key and then do an "End Process"). You would then
just play the match over again (and again and again until you win). Do note
that you will lose your sound until you reload RA2.

RA207 =========================================================================
GENERAL TACTICS & TIPS

Rumbles:
Pick a machine that has a lot of maneuverability. Being able to attack in
different directions is also helpful.

Gut-Ripping:
Here is a technique that is mostly regulated to vertical spinners and drums
(and some saws), but hammers and some spears can get in as well. Basically this
is getting under the opponent and striking the under belly plate with your
weapon. Statistically, most robots have extra armor on the top and on the
front, the bottom is almost never reinforced. This of course requires the
ability to get under the opponent and/or flip them over. There really isn't
much the opponent can do while taking this kind of damage. The only possible
time to not do this is against under-cutters. Back off after awhile, though, or
else it starts to resemble pinning.

Pinning:
This is a tactic that is largely frowned upon in the RA2 community. It involves
merely pressing an opponent against a wall and staying there. This is not the
same as when a ram bot repeatedly backs off and rams (at quick intervals).
Against the computer, this is fine. The AI doesn't care. Not only that, but
sometimes the AI actually uses this against you. However, in most online
battles this is not a welcome case. One can argue it's like "Camping" in FPS
games. However, there are perfectly good tactics available to counter Campers.
Is it like Roll Canceling in CvS2? No, because you can't accidentally pin some
one. In CvS tournaments it's so hard to regulate roll canceling. If you've been
to Sirlin.net, you've read his theories on playing to win. In that sense, yes,
the game only understands that there is a winner and a loser. That's all it
knows. So with that mind set, pinning would be part of anything goes strategy.
I'm going to pull from robotic combat history on this. In the past Robot Wars
events, there has been battles won on pinning. However, this was deemed boring
and thus the 30 second rule was invented. The pinning robot has to pull back
after thirty seconds.
Online gaming is of course up to you and you just might not care what the
community thinks of you. Naturally, you should read the rules of the battle
you're entering. This tactic may be banned from tournaments. Now, you might be
thinking "I've lost my primary weapon and it's the only way I can win," If
you've lost your primary weapon and the opponent is miles ahead of you, than
you might actually consider tapping out (forfeit). If both of you are these
sad, barely-rolling chassis, maybe try restarting the match. Once the countdown
starts, pull back. Don't immediately start pinning them again. See if the
opponent can move. The game comes with a chat feature. Use it.

Always test your machine.
After you make a modification, always run it through the test arena. Often
times in the excitement of building something, you forgot to [re-]wire an
element. The crates and the cones are too light to be of much use. Use the
blocks, barrels and ramps instead. Check to see that you have sufficient ground
clearance. Other things to do is to do an exhibition match in the Octagon Arena
and purposely drive over a hellraiser to check invertibility. Test your robot
against each of the main weapons types (especially a wedge, a lifter, a hammer
and a spinner)

Practice! Practice! Practice!
Being able to drive and control your robot like it's a second skin is a must.
You might wonder how Battlebot Dr. Inferno Jr. can do so well in battle. It's
in how well Jason Bardis drives his machine. Why do certain veterans do so
well? The number one thing is that they know how to drive their machine in an
almost flawless manner. They know the strengths and weaknesses of their
machine. Keep in mind you have an additional luxury of sparring in the various
arenas (in real robot combat, the arenas often change). Know the arenas. Know
which ones your robot(s) do well in and develop strategies for different
situations.

Be aware of what battle you're entering.
Remember that online battles do not require repair time. A robot optimized for
single player tournament trees will be different than an online one. Also know
which arena is being used. Know if it's a one-on-one match or a rumble. Avoid
using spinners in Table tops. Table top matches are also usually short matches.
AW took advantage of this in a tournament by using the most powerful motors,
but minimal batteries.

Patience. Dedication. Persistence.
Unless you're against a spinner, you almost never rush in. More often than not,
you're going to wait for a moment of weakness. Keep at it. Don't give up. Your
first machine probably won't be successful. After a match, analyze what worked
and what didn't. Every design can be improved in some way.

Target Priorities.
In order of exposure, you should aim for:
Chassis: Every hit is one more step closer to a knock out. Hits near the motor
   axles will start to effect their performance. Any slowdown or lack of
   mobility for the opponent is your advantage.
Wheels: Wheels are ~500 hit points. A missing wheel is that much of a reduction
   in driving ability. Driving straight is incredibly difficult. Knock off
   enough of them and a count-out can be achieved.
Extenders: Possess some of the smallest hit points. It is these things that
   usually snap during a fight, rather than the actual weapon heads. However,
   since extenders can be for anything, this does not guarantee much for a
   victory. It is an easy way to get the crowd going.
Exposed mechanics: Like taking off wheels, this will really debilitate the
   opponent, however use caution because of havok issues. While it is usually
   weapons with exposed mechanics, there's been a trend for drive trains being
   mounted externally.

Winning the Crowd
Let me precede this by saying that despite what the guy in "Gladiator" says,
winning the crowd won't get you crap. However, I acknowledge that it isn't very
fun to hear an audience booing you. There are a few things that can get the
audience cheering:
1. [repeated] Hard hits - Any hit over ~100 points ought to get the audience
   going. It doesn't matter where the hit came from (you, hazards, etc.).
2. Break Something - Any time a part snaps off, the audience goes wild
3. Damage the Control Board - Crowds love sparks.
4. K.O. the Opponent - Audiences love robotic death (count-outs and ring-outs
   don't count).

RA208 =========================================================================
HAVOC WITH HAVOK

Havok Explosions are basically whenever the physics engine goes wacko.

Mines: This is probably the most common kind of Havok glitch. I tend to think
of these things like inverted black holes. You can't see them and the only way
to know where they are is by when other objects are repelled by them. The
biggest culprit for these "mines," as RadioFSoftware calls them, is knocking
off any external mechanics or axle mounts.

When any of these parts are knocked off (all that matters is the motor, the
attached wheels/weapons don't factor) an invisible anomaly is created. This is
at the point of disconnection, not where the part lands.
How these points of physics errors effect you depends often on your own robot.
Most spinners will get tossed around.

Burst motors have caused some problems. These involve many flippers. I've seen
this with Sentinel and EMERGENCY. EMERGENCY seems to be after the flippers have
been knocked off, and it goes flying into the air.

Stacking anything increases the risk of Havok explosions. These motors are
spinning at outrageous speeds and sometimes the motors start to "break." This
is the first sign that something is wrong.

Overloaded bots (ones with tons of attachments) cause problems, especially if
it has a lot of moving parts. Don't be surprised if your bot suddenly gets
swallowed into the floor. Also don't overload the bot with unnecessary
batteries. Overpowering the motors causes problems.

Project Trinity Effect: So named and developed by MAD Scientist (which in turn
is named after a nuclear explosion test). This is a centrifuge principle gone
wrong. The way you achieve this is by mounting burst pistons on a disc on a
spin motor. Mount something to the burst pistons like sledge hammers. When the
spin motor reaches top-speed (the rails of the pistons start to pull out), fire
the pistons. The result is something that resembles a tornado or a top that
does massive damage as the rotation speed hits astronomical numbers. Take note
that you will have absolutely no control of the robot as it whirls around like
the freaking Death Blossom from Last Starfighter.

RA209 =========================================================================
MULTI-PLAYER/ONLINE

Online FAQ's
Q: Why is the game so laggy?
A: For that answer, I shall let TDS answer that: My knowledge of Internet
gaming is not that extensive, so I won't even try pretending.
(The following is an edited version of TDS's post "Why RA2 Lags 101" first
posted on March 14, 2003 at 6:12am on AceUplink:)
1. "But other games....."
Stop right there, RA2 is not UT2003 [Unreal Tournament 2003], is not another
game, it is RA2. UT2003 for example, runs on a primitive physics engine that
everything can be PREDICTED. That is right, all UT's netcode says is "I fired X
projectile from X location at Y heading" and the CLIENT takes care of the rest.
Having 32 people running around doesn't cause the game to blow up because as
far as the netcode is concerned, each person is a single point in space with a
heading, speed, and location. That's it.

Now for RA2. Ra2 runs on the Havok physics engine, there is an element of
randomness to it so it CANNOT be predicted at ANY time (for the most part) Let
me reiterate that, if you had a rocket launcher in RA2, instead of one "I fired
a rocket" signal, you would be sending five or ten per SECOND until that rocket
hit something. In addition, EVERY SINGLE COMPONENT in EVERY ROBOT is tracked
though the netcode. In the new patch, the torque and energy (I believe) isn't
directly tracked, reducing the "lag" so to speak.

Also, unlike other games, there is NO DEDICATED SERVER for RA2, this means, you
are relying on the person that created the room to do the server-ing. Try
creating a game of Half Life or UT online and having 32 people join it, and see
if your connection can handle it. IT WONT. In addition, the server is taking in
and sending out several times more data than in a FPS server, processing it,
and sending it out. When the server gets out of synch, it slows down, causing
that lag that you notice. FPS servers don't give a rats ass about the players
and keep going regardless. It only takes one person with a low end
CPU/connection to cause lag for every player. Yes, you should close down AIM
and the rest of the crap you are running.

2. "the netcode sucks"
No, it doesn't. You have two choices when it comes to netcode, you can try to
predict, and you will have things teleporting around/choppily moving/ etc. or
you can synch everything and slow it down. You have two choices people, you can
be happy with what you have, or you could be complaining about how you had
someone pinned in the wall, then suddenly they were behind you hitting you,
then they were across the arena, then you were suddenly dead with him no where
around. I really have almost no problem with the current netcode. You get
teleported back a second or so every once in a while, just redo what you did,
yes, its sometimes annoying, but its better than having things vanish and move
around at will isn't it? MOST, if not ALL of the lag I have experienced has
been because of poorly designed bots, I've covered this in another thread.
Also, if you are unconvinced by this post, feel FREE to get the trial version
of Havok and grace us with your brilliance, come up with better netcode, I'm
sure GI would be GLAD to include it in a future patch. Every last person that
has complained that I have heard cannot even COMPREHEND what is going on
between the computers, forget even begin to think of fixing it. I don't know
about you guys, but personally when I don't know something, or I think
something should be better, I don't sit around and complain, I look into it,
and ask questions. If something is so bad to cause you to bitch and moan about
it, do something about it, or you have no right to complain.

RA210 =========================================================================
OTHER FAQ'S:

Q: I have the downloaded demo and registered. But I can't get the patch to
work. I hear I need to have the CD, but I don't have the CD because it's down-
loaded. . . . (Etc. Etc.).
How do I get the patch?
A: You have to go to Trymedia's website (trygames.com) and re-download the
demo. This should be the most-updated version. When it prompts you, just re-
apply for a licence.

Q: [________] is wrong/incorrect. Or I want to contribute [________].
A: E-mail me. ([email protected])

Q: "Invertibility" is not a word.
A: And that's not a question.

Q: Could you build me a bot?
A: No. The point of the this FAQ is to supply you with some knowledge so you
can make your own. That is what the game is for: seeing what _you_ can build.

Q: Even if I paid you?
A: Yes. Besides, there is no asking price that wouldn't make me feel guilty in
some way.

Q: Will you put up your robots for download?
A: Not likely.

Q: Who are you anyway?
A: I go by "Korium9" on the AU forums (not mention most other forums I visit).
On the AU forum, I won the best "Minion Replica Contest" and made a few other
machines that granted me title of "Master o' the Art Bots." (Great-looking
robots that don't do crap) I have a deviantart account at
korium9.deviantart.com/

Q: Oh! Can you do a skin for me?
A: Unlikely, depends on the robot and how much time I have, so don't get your
hopes up. E-mail or IM me and we'll talk.

Q: Why can't I find Infogrames?
A: Apparently it's now called ATARI corp. That's all I know.

Q: I want to make a real robot. Where do I start?
A: Try some of these links and then branch out from there.
robotcombat.com
coolrobots.com
battlebots.com

Links:

Official Site: http://www.robotarena.com/

AceUplink: http://www.aceuplink.com/

AU downloads: AU http://www.aceuplink.com/ra2/

B4B (nearly every download available): http://www.the.iwarp.com/downloads.html

Lu-Tze's component page: http://homepage.ntlworld.com/a.foster47/

RA-Reborn (some other stuff): http://ra-reborn.com/downloads.php

StarCore AI pack : http://home.comcast.net/~jeffmilburn/Starcore.html

DSL:TC Forum (successor to the Ubermod and BB:AI):
http://ra2dsl.gametechmods.com/

Another place for downloads:
http://www.rfshq.com/pafiledb/pafiledb.php

List of Links, Tools & Tutorials
http://www.robotarena.com/wizforum/forum_posts.asp?TID=3988&PN=1

RA211 =========================================================================
CREDITS:

Infogrames and Gabriel Interactive, who are responsible for creating and
distributing the game.

Weapons break-down based on "Build Your Own Combat Robot" by Pete Miles and
Tom Carroll and "Battlebots: The Official Guide," by Mark Clarkson.

"Building Lag Friendly Bots," "Motor and Battery Statistics," "Official
Antweight Rules," "Playing RA2," "Self-righting 101," "TDS Tutorials," "Why
RA2 Lags," TDS, AceUplink administrator

"Avoiding Havok Explosions," "Defeating the Heavyweights," "Getting New
Components," "Intimidating (Scaring) the Opponents," "Worst Case Scenario
Guide to Robotic Combat,"  RadioFSoftware, (aka Psygnos) AceUplink board member

"How to Kill Any Design," MiniDJBeirne, AceUplink board member

"Battle Tactics," "Having Multiple RA2's on hard drive," "Motor Comparisons,"
Anarchy5099, AceUplink member

"Batteries, CO2 tanks, Motors, etc. stats," Destroyer 101

"How to host a game," Disembowelinatron, AceUplink member

"Razor Blade tip," disturbed, AceUplink board member

"Spinner FAQ," Nimm02, AceUplink board member.

AU power pack was created by AW, AceUplink administrator.

Other AU board contributors: ACAMS, clutch1, DarkRat, Fedexrico, Jimxorb,
Goose, mean2u, Panic Attack, reckah, Talon, TeamOmegaforce, Team Ragnarok,
Toxic, Wildcard

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Legal stuff:
This is an unofficial guide intended on helping and informing the gaming
community. I am not affiliated with Infogrames, Gabriel Interactive,
Battlebots, etc (although I am an AceUplink board member) in any way. This
guide cannot be published or used for profit of any kind without permission.

Do not link directly to this text file. Link to the GameFAQs html page.

All trademarks and copyrights (of and including Robot Arena, Battle Bots,
Robotica, and Robot Wars) are owned by their respective companies

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