In August 2009, Benin celebrated its 49th year of independence. For an
American whose country was last the colony of another nation 233 years ago,
that's pretty impressive: even from the Latin American perspective, where the
colonialists were vanquished nearly 150 years ago, 49 years is an impressively
short period of time. It's a sobering trip to walk east from Gran Popo along
the shores of the Mono River through what remains of that village's now
ancient, colonial architecture. Blame economics, neglect, differing
priorities, or the simple avarice of the Atlantic coast's shifting coastline.
But the little that remains of France's colonial influence in Gran Popo is not
far from oblivion. That makes it an inspiring destination.
For reference, that means there are plenty of French still alive who remember
well when Benin - Dahomey, in those days - was a French possession. A teenager
at the time Dahomey became independent would only recently have retired.
Benin's colonial infrastructure has fared less well. It's a sobering trip to
walk east from Gran Popo along the shores of the Mono River through what
remains of that village's now ancient, colonial architecture. Blame economics,
neglect, differing priorities, or the simple avarice of the Atlantic coast's
shifting coastline.
These photos are from a trip in 2006. There is a modern village not far from
these old, colonial relics, and life goes on in the rhythm of fishing villages
everywhere. But the old colonial buildings are just a stone's throw from high
tide, and some day, they will be subsumed by the waves. And Benin, independent
and upward bound, will come to look upon the colonial period as ancient
history.
