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title: Replacing the | |
Battery in a Palm Zire date: 2024-10-01 | |
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Becoming Portable Again | |
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When I first opened up my brand new-in-box Zire a couple of weeks | |
ago, I was pleased to see it power right up when plugged into it's | |
accompanyhing AC adapter. Unsurprisingly though the battery didn't | |
hold a charge and it would immediately power off when removed from | |
the wall outlet or USB. | |
This put a damper on me using the Zire in it's intended fashion as | |
a portable device I could keep in my pocket alongside my iPhone, | |
and is crucial if I want to continue this challenge through | |
October. | |
Thankfully replacement batteries are relatively easy to come by, | |
and I found a 650mAh replacement battery on Amazon [1] for the same | |
price as the Zire was on Ebay. It has a slightly higher capacity | |
than the original 600mAh, and eyeballing it's dimensions it seemed | |
like it would fit without any issues. | |
The battery took about a week to show up, and once it did I watched | |
a video from 2017 [2] to get the general idea on how to take the | |
Zire apart and swap in the new battery. | |
The Zire itself is relatively easy to open, just take out two | |
screws at the top, then pry it apart carefully around the edges, | |
being careful not to stretch the speaker wires. | |
The original battery is stuck on the main PCB with some adhesive, | |
and after using a plastic spunger, slowly pushing in to release the | |
adhesive and not cracking the PBC it will detach. | |
Zire with original battery | |
The battery is soldered onto two connections at the bottom of the | |
PCB. Using a soldering iron to melt the solder makes it easy to | |
remove the wires. I did the positive (red) wire first, then the | |
black to fully remove the battery. | |
The new battery has a slightly different wire placement, and it | |
took me a few minutes to figure out how I wanted to arrange it so | |
the wires were in a good position - not to stretched out but also | |
not too much slack. | |
Applying a bit of new solder to the pads and then soldering on the | |
negative (black) wire followed by the positive (red) was quick. | |
During the process I heard some faint noises from the Zire, | |
indicating that it was powering on while soldering on the new | |
battery, so there must have been some charge in the new battery. | |
Zire with new battery | |
Before I could put it back together I wanted some way to stick the | |
new battery in the original position so it wouldn't move around. A | |
few globs of hot glue did the trick. | |
Getting it back together was the trickiest part, as there is a | |
small piece of support plastic that can pinch the wires if not | |
routed properly. I eventually got everything into position and was | |
able to snap it back together. | |
I plugged it back into AC power and turned it on. It worked at | |
first, but was stuck on the Palm bootscreen and never went any | |
further. After a few minutes I used a push pin on the small reset | |
button on the back and completely reset the device, which then | |
booted up into it's onboarding. After setting it back up again and | |
letting it sit for a few hours, unplugging it showed that it had a | |
100% full battery | |
Zire fully charged | |
Now that it has a fresh battery I can take it anywhere, and expect | |
it to last multiple days between charges, which is more than I can | |
say about my iPhone. | |
Overally replacing the battery was relatively simple if you have | |
some basic soldering skills. It also gave me a look inside to see | |
how the Zire was built and to appreciate the device more. | |
Links | |
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1. Replacement Battery | |
2. Palm Zire 21 Battery Repair Video |