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I ate a dinner in a train. There was a special restaurant wagon with a cashier at desk and a cook in a kitchen. They were offering a menu with 10-20 dishes. Several breakfast options, soups, second dishes and drinks. Prices are not so high to totally avoid eating there. Food isn't so bad either. There are many not-in-a-train places where it's possible to get worse food. I was rather fine after I had gotten my choice.
In such places the most important ingredient is unique experience connected with them. So we are eating in quite big interior, lighted by big windows, and behind them passing landscapes with speed around 150km/h. Despite it isn't five star restaurant, and ordered coffee would be more than awful, there is the feeling of luxury in some way.
I had the similar feeling years ago while flying on a intercontinental flight in economic class. I hadn't been eating European breakfast for two weeks and they served small wheat roll, with a small butter and some sausage (which I'd never touched in a normal condition). I was eating that with a great relish. While eating I was looking through a plane window. The plane was flying over snow peaks. On the plane entertainment system I read the speed and altitude - 10 000 meters above the ground. This several seconds while I was biting the roll was also the same feeling like being a first class passenger.