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Sunday's daily (whole wheat) bread [1]

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Date: 2022-10-16

Many years ago I gave up the home chef kind of cooking my family had become accustomed to, because I didn’t really have a reason to do elaborate meals. Now that I’m downright elderly and living alone, my cooking is very streamlined. I don’t mind cooking once, eating the same thing for five days, and being mad when it’s gone. And then turning around and making the same thing again. But I do still bake bread, from white sandwich bread to batter rolls to ciabatta.

I was asked about baking failures, and I gave a couple of reasons for less-than-spectacular results in bread baking. I’d like to expand on that. I had suggested insufficient liquid and not enough kneading.

There are a few more things that could affect the outcome, too. Are you sure your yeast is active? I don't buy the little packages because those are the wrong amount for almost everything. More isn't better. Too much makes dry, stale bread. I buy the little jars and, once they're open, I put them in the refrigerator. It will keep a surprisingly long time, but I haven't baked yeast things all summer so I'll test it before I make my next batch of ciabatta. It doesn’t matter whether you buy active dry yeast or instant yeast (don’t buy bread machine yeast unless you’re using a bread machine). The little granules of yeast have a coating that dissolves, and instant yeast is just smaller granules that will dissolve more quickly.

Use bottled or filtered water. Water that's hard will inhibit the yeast. Any bottled water will do, even if it's just filtered and purified. It doesn't have to be spring water from the Rocky Mountains or deep glacier water imported from Switzerland. ;-) I use Sam's Choice, ultra cheap purified water from a local source.

Check the protein content on your flour. I use Bob's Red Mill artisan bread flour, with a protein content of 14%, if I'm remembering correctly. King Arthur flour is highly thought of, too, but the protein content is slightly lower. If you're using all purpose flour, be sure the protein is at least 12%. (The protein is that dreaded gluten that some people can't tolerate but that I have no trouble with.) Use unbleached flour because bleach has a distinct taste, but it won't affect the rising.

Whole wheat flour, the main ingredient in today’s bread recipe, varies even more between brands than does white flour. All flour changes with the humidity, so flour out of the same bag will behave differently on different days, and this is even more true of whole wheat. Different brands source their wheat differently, so the protein content varies widely, and they grind it to different textures. You need to have a feel for the bread as you knead it. And I use Bob’s Red Mill whole wheat flour, too.

Weigh everything in grams rather than measuring in cups, if you can. And only add more flour when kneading if the recipe says you can. If you watch the video below, you’ll see how the flour gets less sticky as the gluten develops during kneading. If the pastiness of the dough bothers you when you first start kneading, get your hands wet and the dough won't stick. The video also gives you a guide to judging when to add more water or more flour.

Long, slow, cool rising is best. If you get the dough too warm because you want it to rise quickly, it will be gassy and the bread will have large holes. Those holes are desirable in some breads (like my ciabatta) but you don't want to get them that way. When I’m letting dough rise, I cover it with a shower cap. Those are about $2 and can be reused, unlike plastic wrap.

If you let the dough rise so long it collapses, you've exhausted your yeast. You don't exactly have to throw it out, but put it in the refrigerator, make another batch, and combine the two. That way you aren't wasting the flour.

The second rising, in the pan, isn’t done as long. The bread will continue to rise in the first minutes of baking (that’s called ‘oven spring’) so account for that, and put the bread to bake when it isn’t quite doubled. If you’re making certain crusty breads, slash the top to allow for expansion, or the loaf will make its own cracks in less than optimal places. The recipe should tell you when this is necessary.

And let any bread cool for at least 20 minutes before cutting into it. Bread isn’t finished cooking when it comes out of the oven. The internal heat finishes the cooking, so if you cut into it too soon, the bread will be damp and doughy.

Now for the recipe. This was a favorite of family and friends way back in my Earth Mother days. It’s great for sandwiches made with leftover turkey and ham.

Whole Wheat Cheese and Onion Bread

1 ½ cups warm milk

2 teaspoons yeast

2 tablespoons honey

1 egg, beaten

1 teaspoon salt

1 cup sharp or extra sharp cheddar, grated

½ cup chopped onion or scallions

3 cups whole wheat flour

Dissolve the yeast in the milk. When it starts to bubble, stir and add the other ingredients in the order given. Knead the dough until it’s smooth and elastic. Cover and let rise until it’s doubled. Punch it down and degas the dough. Form into a loaf and put into a greased loaf pan. Cover and let it rise again until almost double. Bake in a preheated 350° oven for 30-35 minutes. The loaf should sound hollow when tapped on the bottom. Remove from pan and cool before slicing.

It’s also possible to prepare this a day ahead. After kneading, cover it and put the bowl into the refrigerator, on the top shelf. Let it rise there at least 12 hours, then remove and form the loaf.

And once again, here’s Binci Chris in Dubai, this time making whole wheat rolls. Watch how she kneads.

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[1] Url: https://www.dailykos.com/stories/2022/10/16/2129208/-Sunday-s-daily-whole-wheat-bread

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