##################################
# #
# SOCIAL WORKERS ON ACID #
# Issue #2 - June 1996 #
# #
# The Journal of Anarchy #
# for the formerly #
# socially-conscientious #
# who've had their fill #
# of society's bullshit! #
# #
##################################
This publication is dedicated to those who did was what expected of them
all their lives only to find out that doing the "right things" got them
nothing and to those people smart enough to know that loyaty, honesty,
and integrity in the human race is but a myth!
So here is to all the nihilists who are and who will be, who know the truth:
that there is no truth; no morality. All that counts is getting what you
want and getting it NOW, having the most fun you can while you can, and
grabbing whatever you can while you can regarless of the costs to others.
To those of you who wish to contribute to this zine: "FUCK OFF"!
Go start your own zine if you think you have something to say.
If you want to contact us; you can't and that is the way we want it;
If you can't find us, it is that much harder for the FBI to find us.
In this issue of this journal of mayhem, phun and drugs:
1 - Make your own Safety Ram, for compressing sensitive
primary explosive into homemade blasting caps
(how to properly make detonator caps and keep your limbs)
2 - How to safely make Laughing Gas (a cheap but good stone)
3 - How to cause and profit from a power blackout
(from our correspondent in Kanada)
4 - A modern and self-locking garote (choking good phun)
5 - City of Terror: How to traumatize a whole metropolitan
area at once (from our L.A. correspondent)
If you are feeling miserable just remember: misery LOVES company!
Chapter 1 - Safety Ram for compressing Blasting Cap explosives
Primary explosives are sensitive explosives used to detonate High
Explosives. They are much more sensitive to heat and shock, and are
usually more powerful than the High Explosives, but are more
expensive and of course more dangerous. Examples are Silver Azide,
Silver Acetylide, Lead Azide and Mercury Fulminate.
In any large explosive charge the bulk of the explosive is High
Explosive such as Ammonium Nitrate/Fuel Oil, or TNT. These are
relatively hard to detonate, ensuring your safety. They are fairly
insensitive to heat or mild shocks (as from a person hitting them).
They need the extremely forceful shock from a blasting cap to set
them off!
A blasting cap is a metal tube, closed at one end composed of two or
three sections. The first and uppermost section is an incendiary
charge such as gunpowder to heat up the heat-sensitive Primary
Explosive (which is the second section). For very large caps to set
off very difficult to detonate charges, and to ensure proper
detonation of very large charges, a third section of High Explosive
is sometimes included.
A typical blasting cap is about 6mm (1/4 inch) in diameter and 25mm
(1 inch long). A .22 cartridge is the right diameter but often a
bit on the short size (except for the smallest of blasting caps,)
and though a .303 cartridge is big, I find them best for large
charges. Some people use other items such as thin pipe with one
end closed, or emptied out electrolytic capacitor cases (available from
any electronic supply store or Radio Shack) for blasting caps but
make sure to clean inside the casing.
Take the spent (empty) .303 cartridge and try to inspect it visually
to ensure there is no material left inside. Pour some melted paraffin
wax into the cartridge, then heat the cartridge and pour out the
excess wax. You want just a thin coating so that there will be no
chemical reation between your primary explosive and the brass cartridge
casing. Now in the case of the .303 to make a good high-powered
blasting cap, fill the casing part-way with Silver Acetylide or other
primary explosive (such as Lead Azide, Silver Azide, Mercury Fulminate,
etc.,) and very carefully compress the explosive using a wooden dowel.
Try to be some distance away from the casing while doing this in case
it explodes! Never use a hammer, you want even constant pressure.
I used to use a lever affair, though I see in the "Black Book" that
they use a combination of a lever, pulley and a 5 to 10 km weight.
You may have to add more explosive, until you have the casing about
1/4 full of somewhat compressed primary explosive. Now insert your
wick and fill another 1/4 of the way with blackpowder and compress
slightly around the wick. Now seal the unit with a bit of melted wax.
(Remember that wax melts below the temperature of boiling water, not
all that hot.) I used to take a broken 6 volt light bulb, dip the
filament in crazy glue and then blackpowder, and put that into the
cap as an electrically detonated blasting cap, instead of the wick.
My device for compressing the primary explosive was more elaborate
than the one used in the Black Book. Mine had four layers of 1/4 inch
Lexan plastic as a shield and a parallelogram arrangement to ensure
the dowel would come down perfectly along the axis of the casing.
The Black book device allows you to be a long distance from the action,
but its dowel travels in a slight arc. Additionally it must be fixed
in a permanent position so as not to move . . .
�� Hinge � Lever rope to
��O�������������������������������������������� you !
�� � o�������������
�� wooden � � wheel or
�� dowel of � � pulley
�� Upright arm correct � � attached to
�� (very well size � � the end of
�� braced) � � the lever
�� metal � �
�� casing ��� �
�� � � �
�� STATIONARY clamp or wood���� ���� �
�� BASE to hold case �����ٱ�� ��� 5 to 10
���������������������������������������� ��� kg. weight
����������������������������������������
Chapter 2 -
#############################################
# #
# How to make Laughing Gas #
# #
# By the Stoned Avenger #
# #
#############################################
Nitrous Oxide (N2O) is also known as Laughing Gas. It is used as an
anesthetic in dental surgery. Its great at parties or on your own.
One or two litre sized bags of the stuff and you will be flying!
There are two ways to get the stuff: Break into a dentist office, or
MAKE IT YOURSELF!
Nitrous oxide is a colorless gas which is 1.53 times a dense as air.
It makes up about 0.00005% of the atmosphere. It supports combustion
above 300�C. It is non-toxic but is considered a narcotic.
Nitrous oxide is the only member of a family of Oxides of Nitrogen
which is not toxic. The others are Nitrogen Monoxide a colorless
compound whigh in air quickly turns to the other oxide, Nitrogen
Dioxide, a toxic brown gas.
Laughing gas can be made easily and very cheaply from farm fertilizer
grade Ammonium Nitrate. In bulk from farm supply stores such as
farmers CO-OP's (forget about garden stores,) you should be able to
get 50 pound bags for well under $50. Not including losses this should
provide about 6800 litres of gas! Based upon 2 litres per person to
get really stoned, that works out to about 1.5 cents per person!
First take about 100 grams (4 ounces) of Ammonium Nitrate and put it
into a two-hole stoppered heat-resistant (such as pyrex) flask. Put
that flask into a larger container, heat-resistant glass or metal
(even an old large tin can,) filled partially with sand. The sand is
to ensure that the heat is distributed evenly to the inner flask.
Into one hole of the rubber stopper you tightly fit a thermometer
capable of reading up to at least 300�C. Into the other tube, you
tightly fit a tube that will go into a second two-hole stoppered flask.
The tube from the first flask goes into a hole in the second flask,
and down almost to the bottom of it, so as to go below the surface
of the water which you will partially fill this second flask. Fill
the second flask halfway with water (at least 1 cup or 250 ml of H2O)
and add about 1 tablespoon of Baking Soda. Replace the solution,
with each new load of Ammonium Nitrate (in the first flask).
The second flask has a tube fitted into the second hole (but not so
far as to touch the solution). This tube leads to a larger diameter
tube of glass, plastic or rubber, about 2 feet (60 cm) long. This
larger diameter tube is packed tightly with steel wool. (The steel
wool will have to be replaced from time to time.) A large container
packed with steel wool can be used as a substitute as long as the gas
will be forced to travel through a lot of packed steel wool.
The end of the tube (or a second tube leading out of the packed
container should you make the substitution,) is where the Laughing Gas
comes out. Cover it with a bag, and as the bag fills up with about a
litre or two of gas, remove the bag, and replace it with another one.
You can now breathe in the gas and get stoned! Make sure that you get
some air with the gas; you can take half a lung of air before breathing
in the gas. Laughing gas is NOT toxic but you still need air to live!
Do not cover your head with the bag! Make sure that if you pass out,
the bag will not suffocate you by covering your mouth and nose. It is
one of the best stones and cheapest ones around. Call all your friends
and have a Laughing Gas party today!
More Instructions: You will heat the Ammonium Nitrate until it is at
least 210�C (410�F), as high as 240�C (464�F) and NEVER above 260�C
(500�F). Above 260�C, the Ammonium Nitrate will start producing
quantities of the other Nitrogen oxides. Above 300�C (572�F) you may
get an explosion!
210� - 260� C
The reaction is: NH4NO3 (s) ------------------> N2O (g) + 2H2O (g)
The gas bubbles through the baking soda solution to absorb any trace
quantities of other Nitrogen oxides that may be formed. The gas then
flows through the steel wool to lose any other trace impurities that
could be present to leave you will lots of clean phun!
Each batch of 100 grams should give you about 30 litres of gas, more
than enough for 15 guests (and at a cost of under 25 cents total)!
�
Therm- � Pack this tube tightly
ometer � with steel wool Keep a bag
� tubing ������������������������ covering
� ���������������ͻ ɵ@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ the open
� � rubber � ������������������������� end of this
�������� stoppers �������� tube to
�������� �������� capture all
� � � � � � � � your
/ � \ � � � LAUGHING GAS
/ � \ � � �
� � � � � � � �
�����_____�_______����� � � �
����� � ����� �_�____� Bubbles of laughing
����� � NH4 ����� � � � � gas rising out of the
����� � NO3 ����� � � � � baking soda solution
������������������ٱ��� � � � �
���������Sand���������� � � � �
����������������������� � � � �
����������������������� � � � �
Hot plate to heat up the � � � �
Ammonium Nitrate Fertilizer��������
Have phun and stay stoned
Chapter 3 -
HOW YOU CAN PROFIT FROM A POWER OUTAGE!
How Burglars can get maximum advantage.
by Whiz Kid - March 1996
In the next few months Ontario Hydro workers will be going out on strike.
They have been told by Ontario Hydro that they must all take pay cuts and
there will be further massive layoffs. There hasn't been an Ontario Hydro
strike in 6 years so take advantage of this opportunity, while you can!
How can you profit from this?
If you are into "break and enters" (B&E's) then this is your perfect
opportunity to clean up in the break-in business. Crime DOES pay.
In the event of an electric blackout, traffic signal lights will no longer
have any power, and the majority of the police force will be forced to go
on traffic duty at major intersections.
Blackouts have a tendancy to wreak havoc with the equipment at burglar alarm
company central stations. This opens many new opportunities for looting. Are
you upset with the high prices you are charged for computer equipment and
clothing? This will be a great opportunity to break into stores and
warehouses.
There will be less police available to answer any calls so it will on
average take them much longer to arrive at any break-ins.
Many alarm companies will be effected by a blackout, but not all, and the
telephone system will still be working because Bell has it's own backup
power systems. If you want to be more careful, you can cut the telephone
wires going to the place you are going to break into. The alarm company will
know the phone lines that connect them to their customer is down but they
will be much slower in responding and may even assume the phone line problem
is due to the power blackouts.
Of course you may not want to break into stores, you might just want to
wreak absolute havoc everywhere. Remember there won't be any street lights
to expose your activities, everyone will be in the dark. You can hack away
at cable-tv cables or telephone wires, torch Bell junction boxes, or do
whatever you feel like with the knowledge that it will take a long time for
the police to show up.
If you want to create your own blackout, you will need a rifle and
full-metal jacket ammunition. Shoot at the Hydro Transformers up on the
local poles, or even better go to a Hydro substation that has one or many
large transformers and start shooting at the transformers or if your aim is
good, at the brittle ceramic insulators that hold up the wires. With
insulators you may even be able to break them with steel BB's from an air
gun. A crossbow should also be able to do the job.
At a hydro transformer substation, as an insulator breaks, and the wire it
held up falls onto another transformer watch the fireworks! And if you
pierce a transformer and it starts leaking its electrical insulation oil,
it will start arcing inside and will either catch fire or EXPLODE!
Hitting a local transformer will darken a small local area you may want to
hit and may me all you need to do your job. But if you damage a hydro
transformer substation, and all it takes is a rifle, you can blackout a major
section of the city causing so much confusion the last thing the police will
be able to worry about is a break-in.
There is one of the many Hydro transformer substations on the North corner
of Overlea Blvd and Millwood Road. This one is special because it supplies
half of all the power used in downtown Toronto. The cables that supply this
power are not visible because they are underground running in electrical
insulating oil filled pipes. Every few kilometers along the pipe there is
another pump station to make sure that the oil flows to keep the cables
cool and insulated from the pipes. If the Millwood Road transformer station
or any of the oil pumpers along the pipe on its way to downtown Toronto were
to have any damage, most of downtown Toronto including Police Headquarters
would be blacked out.
If you are worried about hospitals; DON'T WORRY. All hospitals have their own
back-up power generators so they will never be without necessary electrical
power.
And if you are the cause of a blackout during an electric utilities workers
strike, the police will assume it was disgruntled workers who did the dirty
deed and spend all their time investigating them; not you.
And if you want to cover up a major robbery of a store or warehouse, one
of the best ways to cover it up is by setting a fire as you leave. It helps
to destroy any evidence of who may have committed the crime, camouflages
exactly what was stolen, and may be assumed to have been what triggered any
burglar alarms. Fires are also good diversions to direct the police well
away from where you intend to commit a major robbery.
For those who want to make burglary a career I suggest you purchase a
portable radio scanner. With an earphone so you can listen in to the
police so you will know if the cops are ever alerted to your activities.
Additionally if you get a portable frequency counter or a logger like
my OptoScout, when you are scouting out a big place you are going to
be doing a hit at like a large shopping mall, you can capture the
frequency of the security guards and listen in on that frequency later.
In Metro Toronto the police frequencies are:
Freq. Division Area Boundary
* 1 District *
862.7375 11 Division (Toronto Shoreline to the south, C.N.R. tracks to the
east, C.P.R. tracks to the north, Humber River to the
west)
862.2375 12 Division (C.P.R. tracks to the south, C.N.R. tracks to east,
Lawrence Ave. W. to the north and Humber River to the
west)
863.6875 13 Division (C.P.R. tracks to the south, Spadina Rd./Bathurst St.
(short corridor on Eglinton Ave. W. connects the two
streets as they run parallel to each other) to the
east, Lawrence Ave. W. to the north and C.N.R. tracks
to the west)
857.4125 14 Division (Toronto Shoreline to the south, Spadina Rd. to the
east, C.P.R. tracks to the north and C.N.R. tracks
to the west)
862.9125 14B Division
861.6875 1 District HQ
857.4875 1 District Simplex
* 2 District *
861.9875 21 Division (Etobicoke Shoreline to the south, Hunber River to the
east, Q.E.W. to the north and Etobicoke River to the
west)
862.4875 22 Division (Q.E.W. to the south, Humber River to the east,
Eglinton Ave. W. to the north and Etobicoke River to
the west)
862.9875 23 Division (Eglinton Ave. W. to the south, Humber River to the
east, Steeles Ave. W. to the north and HWY. 427 to
the west)
861.4875 2 District HQ
857.1875 2 District Simplex
* 3 District *
863.2375 31 Division (Lawrence Ave. W. to the south, C.N.R. tracks to the
east, Steeles Ave. W. to the north and Humber River
to the west)
862.1875 32 Division (Lawrence Ave. W. to the south, Bayview Ave. to the
east, Steeles Ave W. & E. to the north and C.N.R.
tracks to the west)
862.4375 33 Division (Don River/Eglinton Ave. E. to the south, Victoria Park
to the east, Steeles Ave. E. to the north and Bayview
to the west)
861.9375 3 District HQ West
861.7375 3 District HQ East
857.2375 3 District Simplex
* 4 District *
863.4125 41 Division (Scarborough Shoreline to the south, Markham Rd. to the
east [only between the shoreline up to HWY.401], HWY.
401 to the north [only to Markham Rd. and between
Victoria Park and Markham Rd.], and Victoria Park to
the west [only between the shoreline and HWY 401])
862.6875 42 Division (Scarborough Shoreline and HWY.401 [from Victoria Park
to Markham Rd.] share the southern boundaries,
Pickering Townline to the east, Steeles Ave. E. to the
north, Victoria Park [only between Steeles Ave. E. and
HWY. 401] and Markham Rd. [between the shoreline and
HWY. 401] share the western boundaries.
863.1875 42B Division
862.9375 4 District HQ West
861.6625 4 District HQ East
857.4375 4 District Simplex
* 5 District *
861.9125 51 Division (Toronto Harbour/Shoreline to the south, D.V.P. to the
east, C.P.R. tracks to the north and Jarvis St. to the
west)
857.1625 52 Division (Toronto Shoreline and all of Toronto Island to the
south, Jarvis St. to the east, C.P.R. tracks to the
north and Spadina Ave. to the west)
862.1625 52B Division
863.4375 53 Division (C.P.R./D.V.P. to the south, Don River to the east,
Lawrence Ave. to the north, Spadina Rd./Bathurst St.
(short corridor on Eglinton Ave. W. connects the two
streets as they run parallel to each other) to the
west.
862.4125 54 Division (Danforth Ave. to the south, Victoria Park to the east,
Eglinton Ave. E. to the north, Don River/D.V.P. to the
west)
862.6625 55 Division (Toronto Shoreline to the south, Victoria Park to the
east, Danforth Ave. to the north and D.V.P. to the
west)
863.1625 55B Division
861.4375 5 District HQ
859.4125 5 District Simplex
A couple other goodies:
861.1875 Marine Unit
857.2125 Emergency Tactical Force
857.4625 Emergency Tactical Force
Blackouts are the best opportunity for doing big thefts, whether they be
planned computer warehouse robberies where you can pick locks, pry open
a door, break a rear window or even break in through the roof. You can even
use power outages to give you more escape time in smash-and-grabs, where you
have your getaway planned (bicycles and motorcycles are best if the objects
being taken are small,) throw a brick or other large object through the
window (in one gun shop breakin to get through the iron bars and the window
a stolen car was driven through it) and take everything you quickly can from
the window display.
For you amateurs who want somewhere to start, here is some advice.
SOME BASICS FOR BEGINNERS
-------------------------
For those who want to limit themselves to the easiest targets, then pick
apartment buildings. You rewards will be far less than breaking into stores
offices, or the houses of the wealthy, but you will very rarely encounter
a burglar alarm system. Sometimes houses can be even better because they
are even more isolated from each other, but they are more likely to have
alarm systems or dogs in them than apartments. Most of these techniques
for apartments will work for houses, but the risks are higher, but there
are also additional methods of entry such as windows and patio sliding doors.
First you will want to make sure no one is home. One way to do lots of
apartments is to get a job delivering flyers door-to-door. Since these
companies want the cheapest possible workers, many will accept you if you
say you want a cash salary and no records kept on your employment. They will
assume you are on Unemployment Insurance or Welfare and want additional
income you can get away with not declaring, so they will pay you even less
than their normal shit wages, but it also means they won't know your real
name! If there is a door slot you are supposed to put the flyers all the
way into the slot so it falls into the apartment; don't do this, instead
put it partway in so that the slot remains open. If there is no slot, you
are supposed to leave the flyers outside that apartment. For your robberies
don't go back the same day, but after midnight the day after. If there is
still a flyer more than 36 hours later you can be fairly sure nobody is was
home for the past day and a half.
It is a good idea to wear at least something to disguise your appearance
before entering. A hat and dark sunglasses are the minimum.
Before entering, knock to see if anyone is home. In an apartment building
do not knock too loud, and especially not late at night as it could alert
a nosey neighbour. You are doing this to see if anyone is home, or to hear
for the bark of a dog. Be sure to have a cover story if someone does answer,
such as "oh, I'm sorry, I'm on the wrong floor" or you can have another
scam for backup and claim you are collecting donations for some fake charity.
If no one is home, now you have to enter the apartment. Unlike in the movies
most apartments do NOT have latches with bevelled bolts, most have dead
(square) bolts and so you can't use a credit card slipped between the door
and frame. If you have a lock pick gun this is the best method, but they are
expensive and not that easy to obtain. If you are skilled at picking locks
manually you could do that too.
For unskilled burglars, you can force the lock. The easiest are those doors
that have the lock in the middle of the door handle. For these you have to
force the locked handle to turn against its will and you will need the type
of pipe wrench for large pipes that looks like a pair of Vice-grips with a
piece of chain attached. Thanks to the leverage provided by the wrench, all
you need is one yank of the pliers and the brass locking pins will shear, the
handle will turn and the door will open.
Where the lock is not in the center of the door handle the job is more
difficult. You can stick a screwdriver in the key slot and force it to turn
(again the pins inside the lock cylinder will shear,) by clamping it with
a vice-grips for leverage. Often it is difficult to do this so an alternate
method is to turn the whole lock. These locks are usually surrounded by a
lock guard ring on the outside which is supposed to be able to spin so that
you can not twist the whole lock in its place. Take some crazy glue and glue
the outside guard ring to the lock, then clamp the ring with the pipe wrench
and turn slowly to unlock the door. (Do not get confused: the lock cylinder
is inside and not centered in the lock, and the ring guard is on the very
outside and surrounds the whole lock.)
In smaller apartment buildings and in cheaper houses, the door frames are
not very well built, and you can take a pry bar and push the frame away from
the door, and with shorter lock bolts, you can create enough space to just
open the door now.
Of course with a house you also have other options, such as looking for an
unlocked window (also possible with a first or second floor apartment,)
smash in a basement window, or push up on a sliding patio door to push it up
into its upper channel, and when the bottom clears the bottom channel, have
your assistant pull the door out by its bottom.
On the rare occasion that you do encounter an apartment burglar alarm, it
is likely that it will be one of the brown and black Radio Shack ones
(#49-422) that make up the vast majority of the alarms as they only cost
$39.99 in Canada. These devices are so easy to defeat, it is laughable. This
is the one that is mounted on the apartment entry door, and is activated with
a magnet that is mounted on the door frame. It has a three position slide
switch over ten code buttons. You have a time delay after entering before
the alarm goes off, and to disable the unit you have to enter a 3 digit code.
The unit only looks for the correct buttons to be pushed in order so if you
simultaneously push all the passcode buttons all at once, three times, the
unit sees you have pushed the correct numbers in order and turns the alarm
off!
The keys to burglaries, is to be quick. Get in, grab what you can quickly,
and get out with the goodies.
Power outages are the best opportunity for committing major robberies or
just having a phun night of wreaking havoc!
Brought to you by Phreaker's International, still alive and kicking!
Chapter 4 - Cable Tie Garote by the Master of Disaster
Now, for a truly demented idea, that I am presenting only because it
worries me, and I in no way am suggesting you try this out.
In the electrical industry they widely use something called "CABLE TIES"
These are a more advanced form of similar closing schemes like some
used for garbage bags, but they are for use on small to very large
bundles of wires up to 12 inches (30cm) in diameter.
Similar devices are used by police officers as a cheap replacement
for handcuffs. (Theirs use plastic coated steel.) Not only could
they be used for leg or handcuffs, but with the larger ones I would
be afraid of somebody slipping one over my neck, because all it
would take would be one sharp yank to tighten it, and it locks in
place and would choke me to death, with me never seeing my assailant
(since he/she came up to me from behind,) and me being unable
to loosen it.
These things look like a long strip of thin plastic or steel, with a
thin slot in one end, through which the other end get put. Once the
other end gets put through the slotted end a few cm, you now have a
loop that can only be tightened and not loosened. The plastic ones
can be cut with a goodpair of sissors, but the steel ones need a
heavy-duty cutter.
What worries me about the longest ones is that you can make a large
loop and leave enough sticking out to make a handle. This way it would
literally take only a couple of seconds for somebody to quickly put the
loop over my head, slip it down to neck level, give it a yank, and
leave me to choke to death. There is no defense, and unless you carry
cutters with you wherever you go, any attack will be FATAL!!!!!!!!!!!!
(Additionally somebody could be left out in the middle of nowhere
tied to a fence until somebody finds them and gets help. I would
hate to be left overnight tied to a fence in some schoolyard!)
The typical model numbers that worry me the most are the Panduit
(Manufacturers Code #350) model number PLT12EH-QO, a plastic tie 40
inches long with a holding strength of 250 pounds, sold as a package
of 25 for about $70, and the Panduit (manu code #350) model number
MLT8H-LP, a steel tie 27 inches long (too small to be easily slipped
over the head) with a holding strength also of 250 pounds, which
sells as a package of 50 also for about $70.
These things can be bought at most professional electrical and
electronic supply houses such as Avnet, Digikey and Electrosonic.
The ones bought from "hobby shops" are cheap plastic and their clamps
don't always hold the loop very well, so I am not worried about those
but the professional ones like the ones I have mentioned (made by
Panduit) scare the shit out of me, but I guess I am just paranoid.
Chapter 5 -
CITY OF TERROR
How to terrorize a city and bring it to its knees!
by John Lundgren, Anaheim, California
[email protected]
1.0 Why do it?
2.0 Levels of Action
2.1 Minor Remote Disruptions
2.2 Monkey Warfare
2.3 Destruction
3.0 Targets and Targetting
3.1 Visible targets
3.2 Transportation
3.3 Electricity
3.4 Water
3.5 Natural Gas
4.0 Getting Attention and Avoiding Attention
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
1.0 Why do it?
You're are as angry as hell!
Your money is being stolen from you by governments to support corrupt
politicians who purchased overpriced goods and services from their
business friends' and campaign contributors' companies. Your tax dollars
go to special programs that benefit others or provide subsidies to certain
special interest groups or industries, to your detriment.
Society and government are inordinately influenced by large business;
large businesses who are reaping larger and larger profits while laying
off more and more of their workforces. Banks or landlords are keeping you
enslaved with outrageously high mortgage rates that keep you paying and
paying, or high rents that keep on going up though service and the
building continues to deteriorate while eating up most of your salary.
You continue to see you have less and less of a future. Your future
is being stolen away from you by corrupt politicians and special
interest groups.
Cities that continue to decay while others get rich through their lack
of morals, while you are told you have to sacrifice more and more for
the "good of society".
You spend years doing what you have been told you would be rewarded
for: being honest and working hard. And then you find after years of
sacrifice you find you have been discarded, tossed away like some used
Kleenex, by those who made all those false promises to you in the
first place. You spent all your life living a lie, and in believing
all the lies you were fed on a daily basis. Colleges and Universities
only help to propagate these lies and teach people to maintain the
status quo.
You believed in the system but once you started questioning it you
thought you could change it from within, only to find that you paid
a high price for questioning anything; especially those things that
most obviously needed to be questioned.
Our society doesn't work. The criminals, the liars, the cheats, the
backstabbers, the plagiarists, they reap all the rewards, and the
honest hardworking people end up with nothing. Our society is like
a cesspool with the scum rising to the top!
These are just some of the very good reasons why you are angry.
You don't know what to do. You want to change things. You want to
make a statement. You want to bring the rich leaches and lying
institutions to their knees yet you don't know what just one person
can do. Well even one person can bring a whole city to its knees!
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2.0 Levels of Action
We all have different commitments to a cause. We have different
abilities and restrictions. We all have different motivations. We
have different moral beliefs. We all have different goals.
Because of this we all have different limits to how far we will go
to attain our goal whatever they may be.
You may just want to cause disruption of society through remote means
such as telephone calls or letters, or you may want to cause other
minor disruptions through monkey warfare. Or you may decide that to
get results you will have to cause damage to property, or even commit
acts that could lead to injury of some of the scum of the world.
2.1 Minor Remote Disruptions
Minor remote disruptions are usually just letters or phone calls.
As always, your first priority will be to keeping your anonymity.
One of the best ways to divert attention is to pick two different
targets who are adversaries and then make a call or write a
threatening letter to one while trying to imply you are from their
adversary. You may need to do a bit a research on the groups to
do this well but it is well worth it because you will be killing
two birds with one stone. An example would be that if you wanted
to get a Croatian organization, you would want them to think it was
a Serbian who did it. In most parts of the World there are groups
who seem similar to an outsider but who are the worst of enemies,
like Indian Sihks, Hindu's and Mulsim, or people from India versus
Pakistan, etc. How would your local office of the Knights of the
Klu Klux Klan like getting calls from someone with a (fake) accent
who has purposely "slipped" clues that he is from the Black
Separatist group the Nation of Islam?
You could put up posters against a group. Even better, if you
want to attack a group put up posters for them but ones that are
so extremist that nobody could ever agree with them. Talk about
how evil their opponents are and how they should be murdered!
My favorite technique for posters is to put them on thin paper
and to use Spray Photo Mount (this is spray glue used to attach
photographs into a portfolio, be sure to get the "Permanent" type
and not the temporary type,) spray the back of the poster and stick
it down whereever you want. If it is a smooth surface, it is even
better to spray both the surface you want to attach it to and the
back of the poster then stick the poster down and rub it down.
Using this technique it will be so permanently attached that if it
is on a window they will need a paint scrapper to slowly get it off.
You can even spray on the front surface of the poster instead of the
back and stick it on a window so that you can see it through the
window. Spray Photo Mount is available from most Art or photography
supply stores, and is made by companies like 3M.
You can also make bomb threats. In the United States, 98% of all bomb
threats are false.
You could have various reasons for wanting to make a Bomb Threat:
- you might not have left any devices but just want to disrupt
exams, ceremonies, seminars, etc. This is often not very
effective unless you have planted a fake device. A
suspicious looking package or bag, preferably set up so that
the contents can not be viewed, or if it can be viewed,
containing a pipe full or sand or other matter to weigh it
down. It must look like it could contain a real bomb.
- you have left a device but you only want to damage property
and not cause any personal injuries to anyone
- you want the device to be found so that there is neither any
property damage nor injuries, as you only want to get media
attention for a cause, or to scare any people from that
company, institution or site.
There are two primary methods of making a bomb threat: in writing and
by telephone.
When making a bomb threat in writing there are several concerns:
- Never leave any fingerprints on anything!
(Not even the postage stamp)
- Do not leave traces of your saliva for DNA analysis, by
licking either the envelope shut or the stamp; use water.
- Get common stationary available anywhere in North America
Buy your supplies from chain stores/franchises such as 7-11,
K-Mart or Wal-Mart.
- Do not use this stationary for any other purpose and use
"fresh" stationary. The police will look for imprints from
your writing onto another piece of paper that was on top of
this one. Don't give them any legitimate clues
- If writing or printing your threat, do it in a writing style
different from your own. Do not use typewriters as they can
help the police reduce the possible number of suspects as
different models have different type styles, and with age
and wear, your particular typewriter might have an
identifiable peculiarity. Computer printers are so common,
they are not tracable but will still make the perpetrator
someone who has access to one, thereby making the police's
job a little bit easier, though not much.
- Mail it from a letter box a very good distance from where
you are living. Why give any clues with the Post Office
Stamp Cancellation Mark (the thing that dates when the
letter was sent, and which sorting station it went to).
- Send it to a media outlet (or maybe to your target), but do
NOT send it directly to the police. If you don't send it,
to a media outlet (or even better to both a newspaper and a
television station), it will probably Never will become
public knowledge. Also if it is not sent to the police, a
lot more people will have handled it, making it practically
useless for forensic purposes.
When making a threat by telephone you should follow these guidelines
so as not to leave any useful clues:
- Do not use any telephone you would normally use. It is even
better if you can use a phone that is far away (many miles)
from where you would normally call from. Payphones are best
- If you are familiar with Phone Phreaking, use a diverter or
similar system to make it even harder for the authorities to
track down where the call originated from
- Do NOT leave any fingerprints on the phone nor anywhere near
it
- NEVER CALL THE POLICE!
- Rehearse carefully what you intend on saying and on what
information you intend on giving out. Do not give any more
information than you intended. Do you want them to know who
or what the target is? Where is the bomb? When or how will
it go off? Why you want them to think it was planted or
mailed, (you don't have to tell them the truth)? You are in
control, and you will decide what information they will or
won't get. If you make any minor excursions from what you
planned don't worry about it, just as long as they are minor
- If possible, try not to be seen at the telephone, and wear a
disguise to, at and when leaving the telephone. A hooded
top, hats/caps, sunglasses, extra clothing to make you look
larger, are all useful. If you have driven to the telephone
make sure you have parked a good distance away so that your
license number can not be connected to the person who was at
that telephone making the call.
- Assume you may be recorded.
- Disguise your voice. The police will ask whoever got the
message what your voice sounded like:
� was it shrill or hoarse
� did the person sound in control or agitated
� were they young or old sounding
� did they have any noticable accent
� did they seem to have any speech impediment?
A well done fake accent can throw everybody off the track
- Keep your message short and simple. Don't let them keep you
on the line. Tell them what you have to say and don't
answer their questions.
- Preferably, tell your message to the first person you get on
the line. Don't let them transfer you to ANYBODY as it will
probably be somebody familiar with such calls, and they will
likely be tape-recording the call, taking notes, or have
security personel on the line with them.
- The police will ask about any background noises the receiver
of the call heard, so provide your own FALSE ones. Take a
portable tape player (with speaker) with you to provide the
false clues. You could have recorded music, traffic noises,
a subway rush-hour crowd, children playing in a school yard,
it just has to be loud enough to drown out any real
background noises that could be a clue as to where you were
calling from, and yet not so loud as to completely drown out
your message. The background noise will also distract the
listener, so they are less likely to note characteristics of
your disguised voice. Why give the police ANY real clues?
Erase the tape when you are finished with it.
- Electronic voice disguising equipment will solve all your
disguise problems, but if found in your possession at any
time can also help to make you a suspect.
Other ideas are only limited by your imagination:
- You can anonymously report that people are cheating on
their income taxes to the Internal Revenue Service, or
cheating on their corporatestate taxes to the State
revenue boards.
- Send small cash or postal money order donations to
controversial groups, either political, racial or cults,
like the Unification Church (moonies). Not only will
the mark end up on their membership list for government
authorities to watch, but the group will keep on asking
for more money. Once on such a list it is practically
impossible to get off of it.
- Write anonymous letters to media organization to let them
(falsely) know that a company or group is a front for
some extremist organization.
- You can do the same thing as the poster idea, but instead
make it an anonymous posting (you have to know a little
bit about the Internet) for all the world to see on the
Internet. How about a nice advertisement from a company
that just announced layoffs that they are looking for
20 recent university graduates to intern for 3 months for
no salary; that should enrage the laidoff workers!
2.2 Monkey Warfare
Monkey Warfare is a reference to putting a monkey wrench in the gears
of society. This is an area where creativity counts. To get into the
correct frame of mind for coming up with ideas, you have to look at
how society works and how to take advantage of it. For instance, at
the scene of a crime scene the police use wide yellow plastic tape to
warn people to stay away, and similar tape is used on some constrution
sites to warn of danger. This tape if put up in an area you don't want
people to enter, even though it is not a dangerous construction site or
the scene of a crime, will usually keep people from crossing it due to
their blind obedience to authority. Similarly, road construction
barricades can keep vehicles out of an area where there is no work
going on. Just be creative and use things for the exact opposite
purpose for which they are intended.
You can put up false notices, similar to the posters I mentioned
previously. If you can copy city letterhead, or university, or
company, whatever is appropriate to the circumstances, and use it.
For instance you can put up reschedule notices for exams at a local
university. Or you can put up a notice from the city saying that
the school or company cafeteria has been found in violation of health
codes and that anybody who has had stomach pains or flu-like symptoms
should immediately see their doctors; that is sure to cause a flood
of lawsuits for imaginary symptoms.
A perfect example are locks. They are meant to keep the wrong people
out, but can be very easily used for keeping the right people out too.
What would a government office company do if they showed up in the
morning to find that they couldn't put a key into any of the locks to
open up the place for the day? The best product to use in locks is
Crazy (Cyanoacrylic) Glue. For ease of use and for doing lots of locks
quickly I often use the Spray Photo Mount glue I mentioned previously
for putting up posters, or spray glue (like that made by Norton
Adhesives) for gluing sanding disks on a sanding machine. You can
quickly go from lock to lock spraying it full of glue. Likewise, for
magnetic card readers, even the swipe style, take a card, spray both
it and the slot with glue and insert the card to be glued in place
filling up the slot.
You can cause major backups in the drainage of buildings by finding
the main sewage drain and filling it full of expanding polyurethane
foam (used for insulating cracks and is available at any hardware
store). If you get to the top of a building (the taller the better)
and fill up the drains with this stuff, turn on the taps and then
unscrew the tap handles off so they can't be turned back off, or even
better do the same with the emergency fire-fighting hose and remove
the valve handle! The water damage to property can be in the tens
of thousands of dollars very easily.
What about sick building syndrome? This is where due to lack of proper
ventilation and lack of cleaning of the ventilation system because the
company wants to save a bit of money, people end up feeling tired or
even having flu-like symptoms. Did you know you can encourage this?
Nutrient Agar solutions are the best, but you can make a very good
substitute for your activities by adding sugar to a weak solution of
beef broth. You can spray or pour this into Air Intake registers in
a building but for best results open up an air return (intake) vent
and put a tray of the solution in it (or you could substitute some
water absorbant material that would act somewhat like a sponge, like
a newspaper or piece of carpetting and soak it with the solution).
Building security is usually lax during the day, and after hours is
more concerned about entries or people leaving with stuff. If you
enter the building before the end of the work day, hide in a washroom
and then set up your equipment to look like cleaning equipment (pails
of dirty looking water, ie. beef broth and sugar, and spray bottles
full of the same,) you will be able to complete your operation since
you will look like a cleaner to any video monitoring and will be
leaving the building with nothing to arouse suspicion. Spring or
Summer are the best times to carry this out, and in a month or two
the people may not be working very hard because of the building
becoming known as a "sick" building. Often just people thinking a
building has "sick building syndrome" will cause people to start
complaining about it.
Of course just as locks can be misused so can vehicles. People are
dependant of their automobiles. All it takes is a potato shoved into
the exhaust pipe to put them out of commission. If the potato
completely seals the pipe shut, the back pressure will cause the car
to eventually stop and for the engine to refuse to turn over.
If there is a public event or well known person involved such as a
politician, rich or famous person, who is going to be at a certain
location known to the public, any suspicious objects will be assumed
by the authorities to be possible threats. If you go to such an area
with a couple of shopping bags, preferably each one should have a bag
in a bag so that the contents can not be seen, and fill the bags with
old books or newspapers or other objects to give it volume and weight,
you can leave them there. The authorities will likely assume they
are possible bombs and blow them apart. Even if you get caught, just
claim they were your garbage and the worst you can get charged with
is littering or public mischief, both very minor charges. If you want
to add to the effect, you could also put a large windup clock inside
the bag, or a small sign placed on the bag saying something like:
"do not touch". (Do not put a sign that claims there is a bomb, as
if you do get caught, then you are in for serious criminal charges
rather, than just a misdemeanor.)
Do you want to teach people how to skate without roller blades?
Mineral oil which can be bought in good quantities fairly cheaply
at any drug store, can be spread on tile or marble floors in major
malls or office towers. If you want something even more slippery
and invisible, get spray-on fabric sizing. Do not get starch, as
it is sticky, get spray-on fabric sizing, and to verify you have
the right type it will likely have a warning not to get it on
tile or linoleum floors because it will make it slippery.
One area that is of particular annoyance to me is the proliferation
of video cameras everywhere. The FBI regularly review tapes taken
by cameras on public transportation, banks, and security cameras on
the outside of many buildings not just for those who are wanted for
crimes but those who are considered a possible future threat by the
NSA because of their political beliefs even though they have never
committed any crime. Wherever possible, where you will not be at
any substantial personal risk of getting caught, spraypaint the
lenses of these cameras with black paint. For out of reach cameras,
use gaffer's tape to attach the can of spray paint to a long wooden
pole, mount one of those inexpensive gun-type spray-can triggers
available at hardware stores to the spray paint can, and using a
cable going through eyelets screwed into the pole, pull the cable
to pull the trigger to spray the paint from the other end of a six
or eight foot pole.
2.3 Destruction
Destruction can involve explosives or incendiaries, as well as other
activities. There are many texts available on explosive devices so
I will leave it to you to seek out and learn from these sources.
Incendiaries are one area that are often skipped in text files.
These are items that burn to either cause other items to ignite
or are designed to distort or melt other objects. Different
incendiaries are better for different types of targets. Fires are
very effective because they have a tendancy to destroy the evidence
of what was used to start the fire. Arson can be used not just to
create terror and cause damage, but to cover the evidence of theft,
and other crimes, even murder.
For wood to ignite, you don't need very high temperatures, but you
need a very long burning fire to ensure the ignition of the wood.
This is the type of incendiary you will need to ignite wooden
structure buildings or start a lumberyard fire. The best thing to
use to ensure the ignition of large wooden structures are artificial
fire logs, or you can make the equivalent by soaking a tied up tight
roll of newspapers in melted paraffin wax, or mixing wood shavings
with some melted paraffin wax and then pouring it into a paper bag.
In the latter case put the paper bag into another paper bag or box
and light it when you want to use it. The best placement is to put
your incendiary under the item to ignite, like a large wooden beam,
so that the flame from the incendiary will continue to heat the target
until it too ignites.
For non-flammable targets, you will want a high-temperature
incendiary. These are mixtures of oxidizers and fuels, and are very
hot and fast burning. Their purpose is to either distort or melt
objects, such as pipes, cables, beams or railway track. The best of
these is Thermite, which is a mixture of aluminum powder and iron
oxide (rust) but has the disadvantage that it is difficult to get
going. Other incendiary mixtures will use fuels such as aluminum or
magnesium powder as the fuel, and Potassium Perchlorate, Ammonium
Perchlorate, or Potassium Chlorate as the oxidizer. Gunpower,
available from any gun and many sporting shops, is also a good hot
incendiary.
You may also want a chemical igniter to provide a time delayed igniter
for the above incendiaries. These chemical time-delayed ingnitors are
made up of two parts. When these two parts come into contact with
each other they ignite. This type of igniter is great for delays that
allow you to escape well before something is ignited or detonated.
Some of this second type of igniter, ignite spontaneously when the two
components make contact and some have natural time delays. Delays can
be added or increased by adding a barrier between the substances that
one part will soak or eat through. This barrier can be paper used
with glycerine, brake or hydraulic fluids or gelatine capsules or rubber
used with Concentrated Sulfuric acid. Time delay 1 and 5 are best for
igniting wooden or paper objects or firelogs. Time delays 2, 3 or 4,
will work with the former, or with the incendiary mixtures that often
need higher temperatures to be ignited.
1 - Linseed oil (and linseed oil containing products such as varnish)
are one of the primary sources of accidental fires in the U.S..
Linseed oil will slowly oxidize when exposed to air. If the surface
area of the oil is increased by soaking rags or paper with the oil,
the oil will oxidize in air much quicker thereby raising its own
temperature which in turn increases the rate of oxidation, thereby
raising the temperature even more until it finally catches fire.
This is called "spontaneous combustion". This is a good technique
to use if you want a fire to be labelled as accidental and it is
conceivable that someone could have been painting or varnishing in
the area. Just leave some linseed oil soaked rags or paper in a
corner near a flammable target. The time delay depends on the grade
of oil, what it is soaked in, the temperature and the rate of airflow,
but is usually measured in fractions of an hour or in hours.
2 - Put Match Heads (or Potassium Chlorate/Sugar mixture) into a
gelatin capsule (or knotted balloon) along with some lead shot for
weight, and place this into a bit of Concentrated Sulfuric acid.
The Acid will eat through the capsule (or balloon) and ignite the
contents in 1 to 15 minutes. The delay may be increased by putting
the first capsule into a larger capsule, sealing the seam(s) of the
capsule(s) with glue, or adding glycerine to the Sulfuric acid.
Conversely, if you put Concentrated Sulfuric acid into a capsule using
a glass eye dropper, glue the seam of the capsule and make sure no acid
got onto the outside of this capsule, you can place it into a box of
matches. When the acid eats its way out and contacts the match heads,
they will ignite.
3 - On whatever is to be ignited, place 1/2 teaspoon or more of
Potassium Permanganate and place a couple of drops of glycerine on
this. In 5 seconds to many minutes it will ignite with a fierce
flame. The timing is dependant on the powder's grain size, amounts
and temperature. This igniter will not work below 10 degrees Celsius,
which can be used as another method or time delay. For even longer
delays, a piece of paper may placed on the Potassium Permanganate and
several drops of glycerine are put on this.
4 - Calcium Hypochlorite, (also known as Pool Shock, H.T.H. Chlorine,
Dry Bleach or Pool Chlorine,) is an excellent oxidizer for chemical
igniters. It will ignite after contact with Auto Brake Hydraulic or
Transmission Fluids, with the time dependant on the mixture and the
temperature.
5 - This is a mechanical/incediary timer not a chemical one, but is
the most common one used by arsonists. Take a lit cigarette and then
place it behind the matches in a book of matches, then close the
cover of the book, or rip the cover off the book and wrap the matches
around the cigarette then use a rubber band to hold the matches in
place. When the cigarette burns down to the matches, the match heads
will all ignite at once providing a nice hot flame perfect for igniting
paper, furniture or fabrics.
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3.0 Targets and Targetting
Targets should be chosen to cause maximum disruption or maximum
fear and rumours.
3.1 Visible Targets
The most visible targets are: politicians, government offices, the
media, utilities, large companies, Financial companies, Special
Interest Groups, foreign representatives (whether they be government
offices, trade organization, ethnic lobby groups, etc.,) educational
institutions, utilities, tourist attractions and those miscellaneous
targets that would get a lot of public attention.
Fake reports, threats and even monkey warfare techniques or extremely
destructive techniques can be used against any of these targets.
I will only cover a couple of ideas for targets not already covered,
and leave the rest up to your own imagination.
Financial institutions are a good target because of the number of
people who are tired of getting low returns on their deposits, having
to pay fees for every service, and paying high rates of interest on
loans and mortgages and credit cards when often the bank is loaning
the person their own money back! Of all targets Personal Banking
Machines (Automated Teller Machines/ATM's) are the most vulnerable.
Beware that many machines have video camera's behind them. Always
wear a disguise, and as your first action, spray paint any area you
think might contain a camera (they usually put them behind dark or
black plastic and don't use pinhole camera's because of the higher
cost and lower quality of pinhole camera's) with black spray paint.
You can now spray expanding polyurethane insulation into the bank
card slot to cause extensive damage to all the equipment. (This
stuff is very sticky on skin so be careful.) I am sure you can
think of lots of other things to do to one of these machines,
whether it be to pump water, ink, or bleach solution into them,
or just take a chainsaw or axe to one! Of course is you want to be
more subtle you could take a small high-powered magnet and just
glue it under the slot so that any card inserted will have its
stripe slide right by the magnet and therefore be erased.
If a company, that is very profitable and is paying no taxes or
has just laid off lots of workers, has outdoor tanks these tanks
may be a great target. The tank might only contain distilled water
or vinegar, but it could also contain some extremely flammable
solvents or gases that will explode when exposed to fire! The
same is possible if there are lots of steel barrels.
And what about the media that tries to placate the masses and tells
us we have to accept our fate. They claim businesses can't offer any
kind of job security, that it isn't their fault, it is because of
"global markets" at the very same time these companies are reaping
record profits and yet still laying off more workers or shipping the
work overseas where there are no minimum wages, health benefits, or
safety and pollution standards. The media doesn't reflect public
opinion, it tries to create it through propaganda, for profit. You
can attack this media on all levels, whether it is by putting glue in
100 newspaper box slots, by transmitting over radio or television
broadcasts with your very own pirate transmitter (you can contact me
if you wish to purchase a pirate radio or TV transmitter,) by
sending them threats, or even by knocking down a transmitter tower
or mailing them a bomb! The media laughs at how they manipulate the
public for profit; isn't it time to make them stop laughing at you?
3.2 Transportation
The primary transportation targets will be railways, public transit,
roadways or airports.
Because of the vastness of rail systems they can not be easily
watched by their managers. Large heavy objects can be put on one
of the tracks in an effort to dislodge any coming train wheels.
Steel bars or beams, or lots of large concrete blocks could be
used. Of course this must be done at night to cause a night
incident or the obstructions will be visible by the crew, but
possibly not in time for them to stop. It takes a few miles for a
very fast moving train to come to a stop.
Tracks can actually be moved slightly out of alightment to assure
a derailment. To do this the spikes that hold that section in
place must be removed. This is very heavy work but track switches
and track branch-offs are particularly vulnerable. Additionally
there are electrical conductors between sections of track so that
the rail company can detect any breaks in the track. All you need
to do is provide a jumper wire between any section you separate,
before you cut the jumper braid and do your best to warp or break
the track. This jumper need not be very heavy unless it is an
electric train system, rather than diesel.
In remote areas, you can simplify the job by taking a steel beam
just shorter than the distance between the tracks, and put it
perpendicular between the tracks. Then if you place explosives such
as dynamite between the end of the beam and the opposite track, the
force of the explosive will force the tracks apart. Ballasting the
explosive charge by covering it with sand bags will direct more of
the force towards separating the tracks. Be sure to protect the
jumper wire from the force of the explosion. Of course tresles
spanning gorges provide even more opportunities.
Remember that due to urban expansions, rail tracks sometime pass
next to expensive residential areas, and that many toxic or flammable
chemicals such as chlorine gas and propane are shipped by rail.
Public transportation is a particularly visible target since so many
people use it and it is taxpayer subsidized. Of public transit
services, subway system are particularly vulnerable due to the
closed nature of underground stations. Since the gas attacks on the
Japanese subway system, even the hint of a similar attack or a bomb
attack on a subway system will cause utter panic. These underground
stations are often even more vulnerable due to them having air vents
that often come out to publicly accessable roadways and sidewalks with
very visible metal gratings. Should someone pour chlorine bleach, and
either ammonia or an acid so that they would mix in a station, (this
could even be done through an outside grating) the created hydrazine
or chlorine gas would cause a stampede of people. The same would
happen with a smoke bomb or a small explosive device (even an M-80
firecracker on a timer,) set to go off during the "rush hour" and
there would likely be an evacuation or a shutting down of part of the
system for a telephoned (but fake) threat. Because of the number of
people involved, this is sure to get media attention.
Highways and roadways are not as vulnerable, due to their high
visibility. It is difficult to carry out a program due to the
high visibility and the continuing traffic on the thoroughfare.
One technique that will work to cause accidents, particularly
if there is a curve, lots of traffic or lots of stops and starts,
is to create a slippery road surface. In northern states all
that would be necessary would be to wet down the roadways during
freezing temperatures. The easiest method of providing large
quantities of water would be to open up and turn on a fire hydrant.
Where there aren't freezing temperatures, it will be necessary to
first lay down a layer of oil on the road. To get such quantities
of oil would be expensive, except that you will often find a
barrel of used oil outside of many automotive repair shops (there
to be recycled) or you can often find large quantities of these
barrels of recycled oil in waste storage or recycling yards.
Airports are also difficult due to the high levels of security
they maintain. Of course you can turn that high level of security
around to their disadvantage by leaving "unattended parcels" which
will be assumed to be a threat, or by written or telephoned threats.
3.3 Electricity
Residents and businesses are both dependant on a reliable source of
electrical power. You can make it unreliable and even without
causing any damage.
Throughout any major metropolitan area with overhead power distribution
there will be the occasional pole that has an arm locked in position.
If you remove the lock, either through cutting its shackle with a pair
of bolt cutters, or by hammering it off, you can now move the arm to
its other position which will disconnect the power to an area. This
is only temporary though you can increase the time the power is
disconnected by padlocking the arm with your own lock into the off
position.
High tension circuit breakers are designed to sense either 3 minor
momentary shorts or one major one before disconnecting the power for
safety reasons. You can safely cause such shorts in high-tension
primary lines (>100,000 volts) using balloons. Take several helium
ballons with a few long lengths of video tape trailing from them and
release them upwind from high-tension electrical lines and towers.
As the balloons float above the lines, the electrically conductive
recording tape trailing under the balloons will act as conductors
shorting out the lines for a short moment before the tape burns up.
Do not use kites as there may be sufficient electrical leakage through
the string to shock or electrocute you, especially in damp weather.
Of course primary hydro transmission towers are primary targets for
destructions, as are transformer/switching stations, pole transformers
and underground transformer vaults. Towers can be toppled,
transformers and electrical insulators shot at, and underground vaults
are particularly vulnerable to having gasoline poured into them and
ignited.
One particular target that will have extremely high security but will
also get much media attention are Nuclear power generating stations.
Threats to them either directly or to the media will not get published,
this is the kind of thing they will keep secret, but the authorities
will take it seriously and spend a fortune in added security. Just
be extremely careful as this will be given the highest of priority
for investigators. Of course you can create a public spectacle that
can be safely set off remotely, if you shoot rockets with either
incendiary or explosive payloads generally towards the station, but
it is best to do this for when they are giving public tours so that
there will be witnesses. You won't do any appreciable damage, but
if there are people on tour it will likely have to be made public.
The rockets can be made very easily by purchasing Estes or other
model rockets and replacing any final stage/single stage engines with
"booster engines" that are meant to ignite the next stage, only in
this case the final stage is a payload section filled with an
incendiary chemical mixture.
For explosive rockets, use the correct engines but glue any separate
rocket sections together so that the rocket can not separate for the
ejection of a parachute (you won't need a parachute,) and have a
payload section right behind the nosecone instead of a parachute.
Drill a hole in the nosecone and put a long nail in it, with the head
sticking out and the pointed end inside the payload section next to
the primer of a shotgun shell. When the rocket hits an object the
nail head will hit first, driving the pointed end into the primer of
the shotgun shell, setting it off. The effect is much greater if you
remove the lead shot from the shotgun shell and replace it with a
primary explosive like Lead Azide, and then with a booster or high
explosive charge like PETN or TNT.
3.4 Water
Either the supply of water can be threatened or its purity.
If the water valve to a building (they are often bolts visible in the
pavement outside of the building, or are valves on the lawn outside
the property,) is turned off this will end the water supply to any
sprinkler system, which would be catostrophic if there should be a
fire. You can also pour epoxy glue or "liquid steel" over the valve
after you have shut it off. Alternately, if there is a fire, and
someone opened up several nearby fire hydrants, the drop in water
pressure would make the closest hydrant being used to fight the
fire useless. Even just opening up several hydrants in an area can
drop the pressure sufficiently that water flow will almost stop to
nearby residences.
Of course threats that various bacteria or virii have been poured
into a reservoir or water treatment plant can cause a panic, and
the authorities will add very high levels of chlorine to the water,
levels that will be very upsetting to the public.
3.5 Natural Gas, Oil and Gasoline.
Natural Gas due to its flammable nature is a prime target if you want
to create an atmosphere of fear. Incendiaries are perfect to put on
the valve regulation/metering that is outside of many buildings.
There is nothing like a fireball to instill fear in the populace.
A friend out east, says that in Boston they have gigantic LNG
(Liquified Natural Gas) tankers that bring in the gas. These ships
carry so much gas that has been compressed until it becomes liquid
that if one were to catch fire or be blown up (a portable stinger
missle would work perfect here) in Boston Harbour, that the fireball
would be huge, similar in size to a small atomic bomb.
Similarly some cities have large oil or gasoline processing facilities
close to their populations. If the storage tanks in these facilities
were ignited from an incendiary charge tens of thousands of people
would have to be evacuated. A friend who I have been conversing with
for years on the Internet groups sci.electronics and rec.pyrotechnics
says that there is an oil/gas pipeline up in Canada that goes all the
way from Alberta, to their province of Ontario, where there are
refining facilities in Sarnia, but the pipeline continues to Toronto,
where it goes right through a very populated area just north of Finch
Avenue, to huge gasoline, diesel and heating oil storage tanks
north-west of Keele Street and Finch Avenue (both major thoroughfares).
The pipeline then goes on to Quebec. There are supposed to be markers
all along the whole pipeline route to warn contractors not to dig
there. Just imagine the impact if those tanks went and the nearby
natural gas pipeline went up with it in the middle of a major city
like Toronto!
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4.0 Getting and Avoiding Attention
YOU DO NOT WANT TO GET FOUND OUT. It will mean even for the most
minor of activities ending up on lists with government organizations
and lists kept by special interest groups. Even credit reporting
agencies such as TRW and Equifax will store and resell information
on any such activities by you to prospective employers and creditors.
People fear the unknown. So if the source of the disturbances or
attacks are kept a mystery it will increase people's fears. The
exception is the case where you want to instigate friction between
two adversarial target groups.
It is not smart to let them know who did what you did. This will
only lead to you getting yourself into trouble.
What you did should speak for itself. It should not be necessary for
you to explain the purpose for doing what you did, and doing so only
makes it easier for you to be identified. If the action is
self-explanatory, don't worry if someone else takes the credit for
your actions (as long as they don't twist the meaning of your actions)
because by taking credit, they are only bringing the heat onto
themselves and away from you.
Alway be aware of your actions and when you are leaving a trail that
could lead back to you, whether that be not using some disguise to
hide who you are, leaving fingerprints, or in thinking you can make
a telephone call (even through a diverter) from your own home
telephone line. It is better to act as if you are paranoid than to
realize after the fact you should have assumed your line was being
monitored or you were captured on a video camera going somewhere.
Try to consider all the factors that might be involved in your plans.
If you are going to be carrying out some direct action during the
night, have you checked the phase of the moon? Why would you want to
do this? Because if it is the new moon, there won't be any light
from the skies (since the moon won't be visible) to light you up and
help to expose what you are doing. Considerations like this can
help to make you extremely successful in your efforts. Think of what
and how you are going to do things well in advance, and consider the
most likely things that could go wrong and how you will deal with
them.
Yes, you as an individual, working alone, can fill a city with a
sense of terror. Only then will most people look at their lives
and at the society they live in and blindly contribute to.
Say or yell it out loud repeatedly:
"I'M MAD AS HELL, AND I'M NOT GOING TO TAKE IT ANYMORE!"
Now, didn't that feel great?
John Lundgren
=======================================================================
That concludes this second issue.
Issue three will be released when and if we feel like it.
This file is for informational purposes only. We in not way are advising
you to try any of this stuff, but we assure you it has all be tested and
works extremely effectively. The more you practise these things, the
better you will get and them and the more phun you will have.
Remember: "Don't get upset; get even!"
