The LOD/H Technical Journal: File #3 of 12


            Lex Luthor and The Legion Of Doom/Hackers Present:

            Identifying, Attacking, Defeating,  and Bypassing
            Physical Security and Intrusion Detection Systems

                          PART I: THE PERIMETER


The reasons for writing this article are twofold:

1) To prevent  the detection  and/or capture  of various  phreaks, hackers  and
  others,  who attempt to gain access to: phone company central offices, phone
  closets, corporate offices, trash dumpsters, and the like.

2) To create an awareness and  prove to various security managers, guards,  and
  consultants  how easy it  is to defeat  their security systems  due to their
  lack of planning, ignorance, and just plain stupidity.


In  the past, I have written  articles on "Attacking, Defeating, and Bypassing"
Computer Security.  Now I  take those  techniques and  apply them  to  Physical
Security.  The information  contained herein,  has been  obtained from research
on the different devices  used in physical security,  and in practical  "tests"
which I and others have performed on these devices.


INTRODUCTION:
-------------

Physical  Security  relies  on  the  following  ideas  to  protect  a facility:
Deterrence, Prevention, Detection, and Response. Deterrents are used to 'scare'
the  intruder  out of  trying  to gain  access.  Prevention tries  to  stop the
intruder from gaining access. Detection 'sees' the intruder while attempting to
gain  access. Response tries to stop and/or prevent as much damage or access to
a facility as  possible after detection.  There are 3  security levels used  in
this  article and in  industry to designate  a facility's need.  They are: Low,
Medium, and High. The amount, and types of security devices used by a  facility
are  directly proportional  to the level  of security the  facility 'thinks' it
needs. When  I  use  'facility' I  am  refering  to the  people  in  charge  of
security,  and the actual building and assets  they are trying to protect. This
article will be  primarily concerned with  the protection of  the perimeter.  I
have  2  other articles  planned in  this  series. The  second is  the security
concerning the exterior of a facility: cipher locks, window breakage detectors,
magnetic  contact switches, etc. The third part will deal with security systems
inside a facility: Passive Infra-Red detectors, ultrasonic detectors,  interior
microwave systems, and the various card access control systems.

THE PERIMETER:
--------------

A facility's first  line of defense  against intrusion is  its' perimeter.  The
perimeter may have any or all of the following:

* A single fence

* An interior fence coupled with an exterior fence

* Regular barbed wire

* Rolled barbed wire

* Various fence mounted noise or vibration sensors

* Security lighting and CCTV

* Buried seismic sensors and different photoelectric and microwave systems


Fences:
-------

Fences are commonly used to protect the perimeter. The most common fence in use
today is the cyclone fence,  better known as the  chain link fence. Fences  are
used  as a deterrent and to prevent  passage through the perimeter. Common ways
of defeating  fences are  by cutting,  climbing, and  lifting. Cutting  is  not
usually  recommended for surreptitious entry, since it is easily noticeable. In
this article,  we will  be  taking the  'Stealth'  approach. Climbing  is  most
commonly done, but if the fence is in plain view, it may not be advisable since
you can be seen easily. The higher the fence, the longer it takes to climb. The
longer it takes to climb, the longer security has to detect and respond to your
actions. Lifting is  better since  you are  closer to  the ground,  and not  as
easily  spotted, but the fence must be very  flexible, or the sand very soft so
you can get under  the fence quickly  and easily. Whenever  you see a  somewhat
'unclimbable' fence (or one that you just don't want to climb) you should check
the perimeter for  large trees with  uncut branches hanging  over the fence  or
other  objects which will enable you to  bypass the fence without ever touching
it. You  could use  a  ladder but  you don't  want  to leave  anything  behind,
especially  with your fingerprints on  it, not that you  plan on doing anything
illegal of course.

Electric fences are not used for security purposes as much as they were in  the
past.  Today, its  main use  if to keep  cattle or other animals  away from the
perimeter (either from  the inside or  outside). There are  devices which  send
a low voltage current through a fence and can detect a drop in the voltage when
someone grabs onto the fence. Again, not too common so I will not go into it.

For high security installations, there may be 2 fences. An outer fence, and  an
inner  fence which are 5-10 yards apart. It  isn't often that you see this type
of setup, it is mainly  used by government agencies  and the military. You  can
be  very sure that there are various intrusion detection devices mounted on the
fence, buried  underground  between  them, and/or  line-of-sight  microwave  or
photoelectric  devices used.  These will be  mentioned later. If  you insist on
penetrating the perimeter, then you should try to measure how far it is between
fences. Now find a 2 foot by X foot board where X is the distance between the 2
fences. Very slowly  place the board  on top of  both fences. If  there are  no
fence vibration sensors you can just climb the fence and step onto the board to
walk across the top. If there are  fence sensors, you will need a ladder  which
cannot touch the fence to get you on top of the board. You can then walk on the
board, over the ground in between, and jump down, being careful not to  disturb
the  fences. This will work if there are no sensors after the 2 fences. Identi-
fying sensors will  be mentioned later.  Obviously the method  of using a  long
board  to put on top of  the two fences will not  work if the fences are spaced
too far apart. Also, you and the board can be seen very easily.

Barbed Wire:
------------

There  are two common  types of barbed wire  in use today.  The more common and
less secure is the type that is strung horizontally across the fence with three
or more rows. The 'barbs' are spaced about 6" apart, enough for you to put your
hand in between while  climbing over. Also,  it is thin enough  to be cut  very
easily.  If you think you will need to leave in a hurry or plan on problem free
surreptitious entry and the only way out will be to climb over the fence  again
you  can cut the  wire from one post  to another, assuming the  wire is tied or
soldered to each post, and replace it with a plastic wire which looks like  the
wire  you just cut. Tie it to each  post, and come back anytime after that. You
can then climb over it without being cut. The other type of wire, which is more
secure  or harmful, depending on how you look at it, is a rolled, circular wire
commonly called Razor Ribbon.  One manufacturer of this  is the American  Fence
Co.  which calls  it 'the mean  stuff'. And  it is. The  barbs are  as sharp as
razors. Of course this can be cut, but you will need very long bolt cutters and
once  you cut it, jump as far back as  you can to avoid the wire from springing
into your face. As mentioned earlier,  cutting is irreparable, and obvious.  If
the  wire is  loosely looped, there  may be  sufficient room in  between to get
through without getting stitches and losing lots of blood. If the wire is  more
tightly  looped you may be able to cover  the the wire with some tough material
such as a leather sheet so you can climb over without getting hurt. This method
is not easy to accomplish however. You may want to see if you can get under the
fence or jump over rather than climb it.


Fence mounted noise or vibration sensors:
-----------------------------------------

Let's assume you have found a way to get past the fence. Of course you have not
tried  this yet,  since you  should always  plan before  you act.  OK, you have
planned how you would  theoretically get over  or past the  fence. You are  now
past  the deterrent and prevention stages. Before  you put the plan into action
you had better check for the things mentioned earlier. If a fence is the  first
step  in  security defense,  then fence  mounted sensors  are the  second step.
The types of detection equipment that can be mounted on the fence are:

Fence shock sensors: These mount on fence posts at intervals of 10 to 20  feet,
or  on every post. They are small boxes clamped about 2/3 up from ground level.
There is a cable, either twisted  pair or coax running horizontally across  the
fence  connecting these boxes. The cable can be concealed in conduits or inside
the fence itself, thus,  making it hard to  visually detect. Each fence  sensor
consists  of a seismic shock  sensor that detects climbing  over, lifting up or
cutting through the fence. So if the  fence is climbable, it would not be  wise
to  do  so since  you may  be detected.  Of  course it  doesn't matter  if your
detected if there is no security force to respond and deter you.

Another type, is  called the  E-Flex cable. It's  simply a  coax cable  running
horizontally  across the fence. This  cable can not only  be used on chain link
fences, but can also be used on concrete block, brick, or other solid barriers.
It  may be on the outside, or  mounted inside the fence, thus, making detection
of the device  harder. Of course  detection of this  and other similar  devices
which  cannot be seen, doesn't make it impossible.  A way to detect this, is by
simply repeatedly hitting the wall with a blunt object or by throwing rocks  at
it.  If nothing out of the ordinary happens, then you can be reasonably sure it
is not in place. This is basically a vibration sensor.

Low frequency microphones: This  is essentially a coax  cable that responds  to
noise transmitted within the fence itself.

Vibration  sensors: These are  based on mercury  switches, a ring  or ball on a
pin, or a  ball on  a rail.  Movement of the  fence disturbs  the switches  and
signals  alarms. A hint that  this is in use  is that it can  only be used on a
securely constructed and tightly mounted fence, with no play or movement in it.
Otherwise, they will be getting false alarms like crazy.

OK,  you know all about these  types, how the hell do  you get around it? Well,
don't touch the fence. But if there  is no alternative, and you must climb  it,
then  climb the fence  where it makes a  90 degree turn (the  corner) or at the
gate. Climb it very slowly  and carefully, and you should  be able to get  over
without  being detected by  these sensors! Make  sure you climb  on the largest
pipe and don't fall.

Security lighting and CCTV:
---------------------------

Sometimes,  fences may be backed up by Closed Circuit TV (CCTV) systems to make
visual monitoring  of  the  perimeter  easier and  quicker.  By  installing  an
adequate  lighting system  and conventional CCTV  cameras, or  by using special
low light sensitive  cameras, the  perimeter can  be monitored  from a  central
point.  Security personnel can then be  dispatched when an intruder is detected
on the monitors.

Some systems are stationary, and others can be moved to view different areas of
the  perimeter  from within  the  central station.  It  would be  in  your best
interest to determine if  the camera is  stationary or not. If  so, you may  be
able to plan a path which will be out of the view range of the camera. If it is
movable, you will have to take your chances.

Light control sensor: This  utilizes a Passive InfraRed (PIR) sensor to  detect
the  body  heat  emitted from  someone  entering  the detection  area,  and can
activate a light or  other alarm. PIR's  will be discussed in  Part II of  this
series.  The sensor has  an option called:  'night only mode'  in which a light
will flash when a person enters the  area, but only during night hours. It  can
tell  if its dark by either a photoelectric sensor, or by a clock. Of course if
its daylight savings time, the clock may not be totally accurate, which can  be
used  to  your  advantage. If  it  is  photoelectric, you  can  simply  place a
flashlight pointing directly  into the  sensor during daylight  hours. When  it
gets  dark, the photoelectric sensor will still  'think' its day since there is
sufficient light, thus,  not activating  the unit to  detect alarm  conditions.
This should enable you to move within the area at will.

Buried Seismic Sensors:
-----------------------

Seismic detectors are designed to identify an intruder by picking up the  sound
of  your footsteps  or other  noises related  to passing  through the protected
area. These sensors have a  range of about 20  feet and are buried  underground
and  linked by a cable, which carries  their signals to a processor. There, the
signals are amplified and equalized to eliminate frequencies that are unrelated
to  intruder motion. The signals are converted to pulses that are compared with
a standard signal threshold. Each pulse  that crosses this threshold is  tested
on  count and frequency. If it meets all  the criteria for a footstep, an alarm
is triggered. These sensors can even be installed under asphalt or concrete  by
cutting a trench through the hard surface. It is also immune to weather and can
follow any type of terrain. The only restriction is that the area of  detection
must be free of any type of obstruction such as a tree or a bush.

Electronic field sensor:
------------------------

These detect an intruder by measuring a change in an electric field. The  field
sensors use a set of two cables, one with holes cut into the cable shielding to
allow the electromagnetic field to 'leak' into the surrounding area. The  other
cable  is a receiver to detect the field and any changes in it. Objects passing
through the field distort  it, triggering an alarm.  This sensor can either  be
buried  or free  standing, and  can follow  any type  of terrain.  But its very
sensitive to animals, birds, or  wind blown debris, thus,  if it is very  windy
out,  and you know this is  being used, you can get  some paper and throw it so
the wind takes it and sets off the alarm repeatedly. If it is done enough, they
may temporarily turn it off, or ignore it due to excessive false alarms.

It  is not hard to tell  if these devices are in  use. You cannot see them, but
you don't have  to. Simply get  3-4 medium  sized stones. Throw  them into  the
place  where you think the  protected area is. Repeat  this several times. This
works on the lesser advanced systems that have trouble distinguishing this type
of  seismic activity from human walking/running. If nothing happens, you can be
reasonably sure this  is not in  use. Now that  you can detect  it, how do  you
defeat  it? Well as far as the electronic field sensor is concerned, you should
wait for a windy night and cause excessive false alarms and hope they will turn
it off. As far as the seismic sensors, you can take it one step at a time, very
softly, maybe one  step every 30-60  seconds. These sensors  have a  threshold,
say,  two  or more  consecutive footsteps  in  a 30  second time  interval will
trigger the alarm. Simply take  in one step at a  time, slowly, and wait,  then
take another step, wait, until you reach your destination. These detectors work
on the assumption that the  intruder has no knowledge  of the device, and  will
walk/run across the protected area normally, thus, causing considerable seismic
vibrations. The problem with this method is that it will take you some time  to
pass  through the protected area. This means there is more of a chance that you
will be seen. If there are  a lot of people going  in and out of the  facility,
you  may not want  to use this method.  Another way would be  to run across the
protected area, right next  to the door, (assuming  that is where the  response
team  will come out) and drop  a large cat or a  dog there. When they come out,
they will hopefully blame the alarm on the animal. The sensor shouldn't  really
pick  up a smaller animal, but odds  are the security force are contract guards
who wouldn't know the capabilities  of the device and  the blame would fall  on
the animal and not you, assuming there were no cameras watching...


Microwave systems:
------------------

In  an outdoor  microwave system,  a beam  of microwave  energy is  sent from a
transmitter to  a  receiver  in  a conical  pattern.  Unlike  indoor  microwave
detectors,  which detect  an intruders'  movement in  the microwave  field, the
outdoor system reacts to  an intruders' presence by  detecting the decrease  in
energy  in the beam. The beams can protect an  area up to 1500 feet long and 40
feet wide. All transmission is  line-of-sight and the area between  transmitter
and receiver should be kept clear of trees and other objects that can block the
beam. Microwave systems can operate in  bad weather, and won't signal an  alarm
due to birds or flying debris.

These  systems work  on the  Doppler effect, in  which they  detect motion that
changes the energy, and sets off an alarm. These devices will usually be placed
inside  a fence to avoid false alarms.  These devices are very easy to visually
detect. They are  posts from 1-2  yards high, about  6 inches by  6 inches  and
there are 2 of them, one receiver and one transmitter. In some cases there will
be more, which enables them to protect a larger area.

To defeat this, you can enter the field, very slowly, taking one step at a time
but each step should be like you are in slow motion. It doesn't matter how hard
you hit the  ground, since it  doesn't detect seismic  activity, only how  fast
you approach the field. If you take it very slowly you may be able to get past.
Detectors of this type get more and  more sensitive as you approach the  posts.
Ergo, choose a path which will lead you furthest away from the posts.


Photoelectric systems:
----------------------

These  systems rely on an invisible barrier  created by beams of infrared light
sent from a light source to a receiver. When the beam is interrupted, the alarm
sounds.  The beam can have an effective range of up to 500 feet. Multiple beams
can be used to increase the effectiveness  of the system, making it harder  for
you  to climb over or crawl under the beams. Photoelectric systems can be prone
to false alarms as a result of  birds or wind-blown debris passing through  the
beam.  The  problem can  be corrected  by  the installation  of a  circuit that
requires the beam to be broken for  a specified amount of time before an  alarm
is  sounded. Weather conditions like heavy fog, can also interrupt the beam and
cause an alarm. This can also be corrected by a circuit that reacts to  gradual
signal  loss. These systems should not face directly into the rising or setting
sun since this also cuts off the signal beam.

As you can see this system has many problems which you can take advantage of to
bypass this system. As with any system and method, surveillance of the facility
should be  accomplished  in  various  weather conditions  to  help  verify  the
existence  of a particular detection device, and to see how they react to false
alarms. Many times, you  will be able to  take advantage of various  conditions
to  accomplish your mission. If  there is only one  set of devices (transmitter
and receiver), try to estimate the distance of the sensors from the ground. You
can  then either  crawl under  or jump over  the beam.  This also  works on the
assumption that the intruder will not recognize that the device is in use.


MISCELLANEOUS:
--------------

Guards: There  are two  types, in-house  or company  paid guards  and  contract
guards. Contract guards are less secure since they do not work for the facility
and if they make a mistake they  simply get transferred to another facility  no
big deal. In-house guards know the facility better and have more to lose, thus,
they are probably  more security conscious.  Be aware of  any paths around  the
perimeter  in which guards can/will walk/ride  to visually inspect the exterior
of the facility.

Central monitoring:  Monitoring of  the devices  mentioned in  this article  is
usually  accomplished  at a  'Central  Station' within  the  facility. Usually,
guards *SHOULD* be monitoring these. If  you have planned well enough, you  may
find  that the guard leaves his/her post to  do various things at the same time
every night. This would  be an ideal time  to do anything that  may be seen  by
cameras.  Unfortunately, there will probably be more than one guard making this
nearly impossible.

Gates: Probably the easiest way to pass through the perimeter is to go  through
the  gate. Whether in a car,  or by walking. This may not  be too easy if it is
guarded, or if there is a card reading device used for entry.

Exterior card readers: An in-depth look at  the types of cards used will be  in
part 3 of this series. But for now, if the card used is magnetic  (not Weigand)
it is quite  possible to attack this. If you have an  ATM card,  Visa, or other
magnetic card, slide the card thru, jiggle & wiggle it, etc. and quite possibly
the gate will open. Reasons for this  are that since it is outside, the  reader
is  subjected  to  extreme  weather  conditions  day in  and day out, thus, the
detecting heads may not be in the best of shape, or since  it is outside it may
be a cheap  reader. In  either  case, it may not work as good as it should  and
can make 'mistakes' to allow you access.

Combinations: The devices listed in this article do not have to be used  alone.
They can and are used in conjunction with each other for greater security.

Diversions: In some cases, a diversion could better insure your passage through
the perimeter. Keep this in mind.

Extreme weather conditions: All  devices have an  effective operating range  of
temperatures.  On the low end of the scale, most devices will not operate if it
is -30  degrees Fahrenheit  or lower.  Though,  quite a  few will  not  operate
effectively  under the following  temperatures: -13 f,  -4 f, +10  f, +32 f. On
the other side of the scale, they will not operate in excess of: +120 f, +130 f
and  +150 f.  It is  unlikely that  the outside  temperature will  be above 120
degrees, but  in  many  places,  it  may be  below  freezing.  Take  this  into
consideration  if a facility has these devices,  and you cannot bypass them any
other way.

I could not have possibly mentioned everything used in perimeter protection  in
this  article. I have tried to inform you of the more common devices used. Some
things were intentionally left out, some  were not. I welcome any  corrections,
suggestions,  and methods, for this article  and the future articles planned. I
can be contacted on a few boards or through the LOD/H TJ Staff Account.


CONCLUSION:
-----------

This article primarily dealt with the identification of various 'tools' used in
physical security for the deterrence, prevention, detection, and response to an
intruder. There also were some methods which have been used to attack,  defeat,
and  bypass these 'tools'. None  of the methods mentioned  in this article work
100% of the time  in all circumstances,  but ALL have  worked, some were  under
controlled  circumstances, some were not. But all have worked. Some methods are
somewhat crude, but they get the job done. Some methods were intentionally left
out  for obvious reasons.  Even though this  article was written  in a tutorial
fashion, in no way am I advising you to  go out and break the law. I am  merely
showing  you how to identify devices that you  may not have known were in place
to keep you from making a stupid mistake and getting caught. The  Establishment
doesn't always play fair, so why should we?


ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS:
-----------------

Gary Seven (LOH)
 
Downloaded From P-80 International Information Systems 304-744-2253 12yrs+