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Robot Wars: Arenas of destruction FAQ (Playstation 2)
Version 1.01
Written by Robshi
Last updated: 17/01/2004
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Section 1: Contents
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Section 1: Contents
Section 2: Introduction
Section 3: Version History
Section 4: Rules and Explanations
Section 5: Building Custom robots
Section 6: Robot statistics
Section 7: Battle tips
Section 8: Tournament Rules and strategies
Section 9: Mini-game tips
Section 10: Arena explanations and strategies
Section 11: Contacting Me
Section 12: Credits
Section 13: Copyright
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Section 2: Introduction
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Seeing as my other FAQ did quite well when I first posted it, I thought I would
start work on another one. This is it. I am not a very experienced FAQ writer
but I am very talented with written work. Anyway, we all have to start out as
newcomers.
Robot Wars is a very popular TV show in the UK, and competitions are also
starting in other countries as well. This game was created to honour the TV
show, and give people who know nothing about engineering an experience of what
robot wars is like.
The game itself isn't very tough to complete, as your only real goal is to
unlock everything. Nevertheless, there are some aspects of this game where you
will need a hand. I hope you find your answers to any questions in this guide.
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Section 3: Version History
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Version 1.00- 15/06/03- First complete version written.
Version 1.01- 17/01/04- Copyright notice updated.
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Section 4: Rules and explanations
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Here is what you need to know to play the game. Most of this information was
received from the instruction manual.
-Controls-
Directional buttons- Robot movement
Left analog stick- Left and right movement
Right analog stick- Forward and backward movement
X button/ R1- First weapon
Square button/ L1- Second weapon
Triangle button/ R2/ L2- Change camera
Start button- Pause
These are the standard settings; you can change the controls on the robot
configuration option before a battle to the following.
Standard- As shown above
Tank steering- Each stick controls one side of the robot, so up on the left
stick will turn the robot to the right etc. All other controls are the same.
Left analog stick- Left stick controls all the movement of the robot.
-Battle mode explanation-
In the battle mode your aim is to immobilize your opponent's robot. The battle
ends when a) all opponents are immobile, b) your robot is immobile and c) when
the time runs out. If the time runs out the winner will be decided by the
judges based on style, control damage and aggression. These scores are
displayed after the battle.
-Special Battle rules-
Here are some special rules you may face with in battle.
Collateral Damage: The aim here is to destroy barrels and similar arena items.
The winner is the robot who destroys the most items.
Mad Bomber: One robot is equipped with a bomb; the robot must pass the bomb to
another robot by ramming them before the bomb explodes. The last robot standing
wins.
Capture the Flag: The aim is to be the robot with the flag at the end of the
battle. Ram another robot to make them drop the flag.
Annihilator: This is basically a normal battle with more than two robots. The
same rules apply.
-Robot statistics-
You can see a robots statistics before a battle. Here is what they are and what
they mean.
Weight: How heavy a robot is. There are four classes of weight: Lightweight (up
to 55kg), Medium-weight (56-62kg), Heavyweight (63-75kg) and Super Heavyweight
(76kg and above).
Cost: How much credits a robot took to build. You can win credits by winning
tournaments.
Strength: This indicates how defensive a robot is. The lower this number is,
the easier it will be to rip apart.
Speed: This indicates a robots top speed.
Pushing power: This shows how powerful a robot is at pushing other robots.
Agility: This indicates how quickly a robot can accelerate and turn.
Attack power: This shows how much damage a robot is likely to cause.
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Section 5: Building Custom Robots
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The most detailed part of this game is the "create a robot" section. Here I
will give a full list of robot parts available in Robot Wars.
-Robot Bodies-
The "body" section is the first section you will use in this mode. It is the
section where you choose the chassis for your robot. The chassis will determine
the final shape of your robot. Be warned though, once you choose your chassis
you cannot change it (unlike other parts of your robot), if you want a
different body you will need to create a different robot.
Low Cuboid
100 credits
Weight: 15kg
Game description: The low cuboid design provides excellent stability and
versatility, and can be incorporated into virtually any robot design plan.
My opinion: This is a good body to use for nearly any robot you wish to make,
though people who like flipping or other designs may have to rely on something
else.
High Cuboid
100 credits
Weight: 15kg
Game description: The high cuboid design lacks the stability of the low cuboid,
but its increased height means it can get a larger degree of movement with
pneumatic flipping weapons.
My opinion: Use the low cuboid; you will want a different body for lifting
weapons anyway. The high cuboid is a bad body to use.
High Plough
150 credits
Weight: 15kg
Game description: The plough shape effectively carves through the opposition
pushing them around the body. The flat top is excellent for mounting weaponry.
My opinion: This is good if your strategy is to push your opponent. It is much
better than the high cuboid because of the sharp front.
Wedge Box
200 credits
Weight: 15kg
Game description: The wedge box is a cuboid body shell with a steep wedge style
slope at the front. Although the wedge slope is a little steep to be ideal for
turning opponents over, it can still be effective in this capacity.
My opinion: Not the best body for flippers. This body is alright for ramming
and a few other strategies though.
Square Wedge
200 credits
Weight: 15kg
Game description: The square wedge has wedge style slopes on all four sides.
Although the slopes on all sides make it unlikely to be able to flip robots
just by its shape, it makes it very stable and difficult to flip.
My opinion: This is better than the low cuboid! It is as versatile and stable
as the low cuboid, as well as the advantage of having slopes on all sides.
Low Dome
150 credits
Weight: 15kg
Game description: The low dome is a high tech body shell designed to be very
difficult to flip by having a low ground clearance and a low centre of gravity.
My opinion: You can only have four wheels with this body, reducing its maximum
speed. However, this is a good body if this doesn't matter to you.
High Dome
150 credits
Weight: 15kg
Game description: While not as stable and difficult to flip as the low dome,
this high dome variation provides a good platform for heavy swinging weapons,
and the rounded armor is highly effective at deflecting attacks.
My opinion: Use the low dome unless you plan to use a swinging weapon. This is
a bad alternative.
Domed Disc
150 credits
Weight: 15kg
Game description: The domed disc body shape has similar attack deflecting
capabilities to the high dome, plus the vertical sides of the disc provide a
far better surface for pushing other robots.
My opinion: This is another high dome. If you like the high dome here's
something for you to try, though I wouldn't bother.
Flat Disc
120 credits
Weight: 15kg
Game description: The flat disc enjoys a slightly lower centre of gravity to
the domed disc, and the flat disc surface makes an excellent platform for
weapons and extras.
My opinion: This is the better high dome to use. It has the advantages of the
high and low dome.
Half cylinder
200 credits
Weight: 15kg
Game description: The half cylinder is good at deflecting attacks, but can be
fairly unstable particularly with high powered drives.
My opinion: With this body you can only have four wheels so there is another
speed restriction. The shape is alright, but only if you can afford the loss of
the speed.
Triangle
250 credits
Weight: 15kg
Game description: The triangle body shape has some innate flipping ability
similar to a wedge. It is also good at deflecting damage and can be modified
with a few extras to achieve a wide range of pleasing looks.
My opinion: A good body for flippers, but it can only have two proper wheels.
If speed isn't your concern then this is a good pick.
Cone
250 credits
Weight: 15kg
Game description: The cone shaped body is capable of deflecting a good degree
of damage, and can also drive its point under opponent robots to attempt to
turn them over.
My opinion: Like the triangle, this body can only have two wheels (and
casters). This is a good body for flipping with if you can spare the speed.
Bullet
300 credits
Weight: 15kg
Game description: The bullet design gives a very hi-tech look to any robot, and
also provides a good degree of deflection of damage owing to its rounded shape.
My opinion: This is similar to the cone, and can only have two wheels. It is
good for flipping with and ramming with.
Low Classic Wedge
400 credits
Weight: 15kg
Game description: The low classic wedge is designed to be able to drive under
other robots and try to turn them over. It can also have a flipper built in to
the front slope of the wedge for an excellent flipping combination.
My opinion: An excellent body for flipping robots with, though the high classic
wedge is probably better.
High Classic Wedge
400 credits
Weight: 15kg
Game description: The high classic wedge is designed to be able to drive under
other robots and try to turn them over. This high version has greater ability
to turn over opponent robots, but also has a higher centre of gravity making it
unstable.
My opinion: This is the better wedge for flipping with, but it comes at the
expense of defense. I prefer this over the low classic wedge.
Box Wedge 1
450 credits
Weight: 15kg
Game description: The box wedge 1 is a cross between a wedge and a cuboid body,
giving the innate flipping advantage of the wedge, plus some of the extra
weapons slots found on cuboid body shapes.
My opinion: The wedge slope is a little steep for flipping, though it can still
be effective. Good for a flipping and destructive weapon combo.
Box Wedge 2
450 credits
Weight: 15kg
Game description: The box wedge 2 variation on the classic wedge shape has a
small flat area at the top of the wedge slope to use as a platform for weapons
and extras.
My opinion: This is a better variation as the flipping ability is greater. You
still get the room for a destructive weapon at the top.
Wedge Dome
350 credits
Weight: 15kg
Game description: The wedge dome carries many of the characteristics of the
classic wedge, but is domed around its rear section to allow it to be able to
get underneath opponent robots from a greater number of angles.
My opinion: This is a good wedge, but it suffers from the two-wheel
restriction. If you don't care about speed, this is a good choice.
Beveled Wedge
500 credits
Weight: 15kg
Game description: The beveled wedge is a simple variation on the classic wedge
design. The sides of the wedge face have been chamfered down to give better
looks and opponent flipping ability.
My opinion: This is the ultimate wedge. Anyone who plans to use a flipper must
have this!
-Locomotion-
This is the section where you choose the wheels for your robot. The wheels you
pick will determine how fast your robot will travel and how easy it will be to
control. You can change your locomotion as often as you want in the workshop.
Small Inner Pneumatic
70 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: Pneumatic rubber wheels are fairly cheap, but easy to
puncture. Mounted internally they give less traction and agility but are
afforded more protection.
My opinion: Personally I hate these wheels; I always stick to using the Medium
inner foam filled wheels as they are more defensive. Mounting your wheels in
your robot is a good idea though. Early in the game you may wish to buy these
wheels for their price but even then I would stick to the foam filled wheels.
Medium Inner Pneumatic
70 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: Pneumatic rubber wheels are fairly cheap, but easy to
puncture. Mounted internally they give less traction and agility but are
afforded more protection.
My opinion: These wheels are really the same as the small inner pneumatic, and
I have the same opinion about them.
Large Inner Pneumatic
70 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: Pneumatic rubber wheels are fairly cheap, but easy to
puncture. Mounted internally they give less traction and agility but are
afforded more protection.
My opinion: Why the games creators made three wheels that are exactly the same
when used is beyond me.
Medium Inner Foam Filled
120 credits
Weight: 2kg
Game description: Foam rubber tires are actually pneumatic tires filled with
expanding poly-ethane foam to reduce risk of a puncture. They are the perfect
balance between heavy solid tires and vulnerable pneumatic tires.
My opinion: I find these wheels are perfect for both budget robots and ultimate
robot destroyers.
Medium Inner Solid
150 credits
Weight: 3kg
Game description: Solid rubber wheels are more resilient to attack, but are
heavier than their air filled counterparts. Mounted internally they provide
less agility, but more protection.
My opinion: If you like heavy, defensive robots then these are for you.
Small Outer Pneumatic
70 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: Pneumatic rubber wheels are fairly cheap, but easy to
puncture. Mounted externally they give more traction and agility but are more
vulnerable to attack.
My opinion: I dislike having external wheels as they are a lot more vulnerable
to attack.
Medium Outer Pneumatic
70 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: Pneumatic rubber wheels are fairly cheap, but easy to
puncture. Mounted externally they give more traction and agility but are more
vulnerable to attack.
My opinion: These wheels are exactly the same as the small outer pneumatic
wheels and should be treated in the same way.
Large Outer Foam filled
120 credits
Weight: 2kg
Game description: Foam rubber tires are actually pneumatic tires filled with
expanding poly-ethane foam to reduce risk of a puncture. They are the perfect
balance between heavy solid tires and vulnerable pneumatic tires.
My opinion: If you like having external wheels then you may wish to include
this in your robot, though if you are like me you will probably stick to the
internal tires.
Large Outer Solid
150 credits
Weight: 3kg
Game description: Solid rubber wheels are more resilient to attack, but are
heavier than their air filled counterparts. Mounted externally they provide
more agility, but are more vulnerable to attack.
My opinion: I tried mounting wheels externally and I noticed no change in the
speed of the robot.
Caster
0 credits
Weight: 0kg
Game description: The caster is used in conjunction with wheels mounted on the
rear of the robot. It is not powered itself, and thus the robot will spin on
its rear axis.
My opinion: These are great to use early in the game because of the price!
Though later in the game you may wish to change them as they cause your robot
to rock from side to side.
-Power-
This is what powers your robot. You will need to think carefully about which
engine to put inside your robot as it will affect how reliable it is in battle.
Like most parts in the custom robot section you can change this as often as you
want.
Kestral K8 6V Sealed lead acid battery
100 credits
Weight: 4kg
Game description: The kestrel K8 6V sealed lead acid battery is a small, cheap
6V power unit is ideal for lightweight, low power robots. However, beware when
coupling up to higher voltage drives as the low durability means these
batteries are unlikely to go the distance.
My opinion: I would only use these for building lightweight robots if I were
you.
Kestrel K13 "Samson" 12V Sealed lead acid battery
300 credits
Weight: 7kg
Game description: The kestrel K13 "Samson" 12V sealed lead acid battery is the
standard workhouse of the kestrel range, slightly heavier than its Yuarta
counterpart, but also slightly cheaper.
My opinion: This is a very useful battery as it can be used for robots of all
weights, and the cost of the battery makes it a nice addition to a budget
robot.
Kestrel K34 "Goliath" 12V Sealed lead acid battery
330 credits
Weight: 9kg
Game description: The kestrel K34 "Goliath" sealed lead acid battery provides
greater durability than the smaller Samson, but its weight means a robot
builder should think carefully about how much power their robot really
requires.
Game description: If you are concerned about weight then stick to the Samson, I
only used this battery when I was building super heavyweight robots.
Yuarta 100 12V sealed lead acid battery
400 credits
Weight: 6kg
Game description: The Yuarta 100 12V sealed lead acid battery is the standard
choice for the majority of combatants. The Yuarta 100 provides reasonable
durability, for a reasonable price, at a reasonable weight.
My opinion: These electric motors are a nice alternative to the Kestrel
batteries, and a worth giving a try.
Yuarta 200 12V sealed lead acid battery
500 credits
Weight: 9kg
Game description: The Yuarta 200 12V sealed lead acid battery provides
excellent durability, but if cost is a serious issue it might be worth going
for the cheaper kestrel battery.
My opinion: Early in the game it may not be a good idea to try and buy this
engine but later in the game 500 credits will seem like nothing. This is a good
motor and should not be underestimated. You may wish to use a lighter engine if
the weight of your robot concerns you.
Yuarta 400 24V sealed lead acid battery
800 credits
Weight: 9kg
Game description: The Yuarta 400 24V Sealed lead acid battery unit provides
supreme durability at 24V, but as it is designed to provide power for well over
the 5 minutes required for robots it has weight in almost the same abundance as
power.
My opinion: You should not include this engine on a budget or a robot where
weight is a concern. However if you're building a super heavyweight robot and
you have a lot of credits, this engine is one of the best.
Ever-cell 6V Nickel Cadmium battery pack
220 credits
Weight: 2kg
Game description: The Ever-cell 6V Nickel Cadmium battery pack provides
improved durability over the other 6V batteries on the market as well as being
very light. However they are expensive and less robust than the sealed lead
acid batteries.
My opinion: These batteries are perfect for budget robots and lightweight
robots. They are cheap when compared to the other batteries and motors and they
will last if you give your robot good armor.
Ever-cell 12V Nickel cadmium battery pack
400 credits
Weight: 6kg
Game description: Ever-cell Nickel cadmium battery pack provides excellent
durability for its weight, but as with the 6V model it's not as sturdy as it
could be.
My opinion: I think you are better off with one of the other batteries, if your
robot can manage the weight of this battery then you will probably find
yourself better off with one of the kestrel batteries.
2-stroke Petrol engine 3-4hp
800 credits
Weight: 10kg
Game description: The 2-Stroke Petrol engine 3-4hp comes from a small motorized
bicycle. The unit provides excellent power and durability, but is less reliable
than batteries and may stall if turned upside down.
My opinion: I dislike the petrol engines because the majority of them are
unreliable. I tried one of these engines and it broke down within seconds of a
battle. I would not try this engine if I were you.
4-stroke petrol engine 5hp
1000 credits
Weight: 15kg
Game description: The 4-stroke petrol engine 5hp is taken from a lawnmower;
this motor provides superb power and torque through a direct drive mechanism.
My opinion: This motor has the same problems as the 2-stroke petrol engine.
4-stroke petrol engine 5hp (pressurized)
1500 credits
Weight: 16kg
Game description: The 4-stroke petrol engine 5hp (pressurized) is similar to
the slightly lighter 4-stroke petrol engine in power output and performance,
this unit has been modified to include a pressurized petrol tank to avoid the
engine stalling if tipped upside down.
My opinion: This is the only reliable petrol engine. It can make a robot go at
lightning speeds and is worth having if you can spare the money and the weight.
-Drive-
This is what drives the locomotion of your robot, if you have batteries, you
can get a wide selection of electric motors. If you have a petrol engine, you
must choose out of three differentials. The drive motors will affect the speed
and agility of your robot.
Differential and low ratio gearbox
100 credits
Weight: 2kg
Game description: The differential and low ratio gearbox allows you to drive
your wheels directly from a petrol engine power source. The low gear ratio
gives a relatively low top speed, but excellent acceleration and agility.
My opinion: I prefer the medium and high gear ratios as they are often more
faster and maneuverable.
Differential and medium ratio gearbox
100 credits
Weight: 2kg
Game description: The differential and medium ratio gearbox allows you to drive
your wheels directly from a petrol engine power source. The medium gear ratio
gives an even balance between top speed, acceleration and agility.
My opinion: This is a nice balance, though the high ratio will give better
speed, though it depends on what you want your robot to be.
Differential and high ratio gearbox
100 credits
Weight: 2kg
Game description: The differential and high ratio gearbox allows you to drive
your wheels directly from a petrol engine power source. The high gear ratio
gives a high top speed and pushing power, but at the cost of poorer
acceleration and agility.
My opinion: I love this drive motor for the speed it gives, though it makes the
robot hard to drive. You may want to think about how easily your robot should
be controlled.
Dosch 6V Electric Drill motor
40 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: This Dosch 6V electric drill motor is very cheap and very
light. These motors will struggle to perform against other motors on the market
unless over clocked, which vastly reduces their reliability and lifespan.
My opinion: I would not try these motors unless you are on a very tight budget
and have no alternative.
Dosch 12V Electric Drill motor
120 credits
Weight: 2kg
Game description: These Dosch 12V electric drill motors are taken from Dosch
cordless drills. These well made little motors provide a good amount of speed
and torque for their small size. They are best used in light weight robots
rather than heavier robots.
My opinion: These are useful when building your robot at the start of the game,
though later on you will want to change them.
Dosch 750W 24V DC Electric Drill motor
250 credits
Weight: 2kg
Game description: The Dosch 750W 24V DC electric drill motor is a versatile and
reliable 1hp electric motor originally designed for powering cooling fans in
large trucks. This motor is popular, but its cost mean newcomers to the sport
may have to look to cheaper alternatives.
My opinion: If you can afford it, this is a great drive motor to have. You must
not overlook this component.
Purturba 400W 12V DC Electric motor
100 credits
Weight: 3kg
Game description: The Purturba 400W 12V DC electric motor is a cheap, reliable
wheelchair motor that makes an excellent budget drive unit. It is rated to run
at 12V, but many competitors choose to over clock the motor at 24V for improved
power and performance.
My opinion: These are great for budget robots if you can spare the weight. You
will want to keep this drive in your robot throughout the game.
Drakonvlast 800W 24V DC Electric motor (Secret component)
350 credits
Weight: 3kg
Game description: The Drakonvlast 800W 24V DC electric motors are a relatively
new discovery and are the motor of choice for many teams. They are well made
and powerful, and will last a lifetime!
My opinion: Once you unlock these you will never use any other drive motor
again. These are the best drives you can buy! They excel in all areas that a
robot builder will be concerned with.
-Weapons-
Here is the fun bit! Here is where you choose parts intended to destroy or
immobilize your opponent. There are several kinds of weapons each with their
own technique to destroy.
*Static*
These weapons don't move, and rely on the robots drive and speed to cause
damage.
15cm Titanium ramming spike
150 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: The 15cm titanium ramming spike does not allow as much
penetration as the 30cm spike, this shorter version is less likely to bend,
snap or become caught against arena hazards.
My opinion: This is great to armor the sides of your robot. It can also be
placed elsewhere on your robot for extra damage.
30cm Titanium ramming spike
250 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: The 30cm titanium ramming spike is a simple ramming spike
which relies on the robots own speed and momentum to cause damage. Very cheap
and easy to use, but unlikely to cause serious damage to a well armored
opponent.
My opinion: This isn't as versatile as the 15cm spike, and can be broken or
caught easily. It isn't a good choice for a main weapon.
Twin spike
220 credits
Weight: 2kg
Game description: The twin spike with two titanium spikes that are mounted side
by side for twice the ramming damage.
My opinion: This isn't bad for a weapon, but it isn't versatile and there are
better weapons out there.
Triple spike
250 credits
Weight: 3kg
Game description: This triple spike has three pronged titanium spikes allowing
ramming attacks and defense from three angles.
My opinion: This is slightly better than the twin spike, but I don't find that
it's worth it.
Rending spike
250 credits
Weight: 3kg
Game description: This rending spike has three pronged ramming weapon that has
an elongated central spike to cause the initial damage and then two secondary
spikes are angled inwards to force the hole in the opponent's armor wider.
My opinion: This is a good static weapon, though whether it is worth it or not
depends on your style of battle.
Spike trap
320 credits
Weight: 3kg
Game description: The spike trap has two lower spikes that run at just about
ground level, driving underneath the opponent robot. The opponent then becomes
trapped between the lower and upper spikes.
My opinion: Only worth having if you can't have another moving weapon. There
are better main weapons but this is not to be discounted as it is a good
ramming weapon.
Giant knife blade
350 credits
Weight: 3kg
Game description: This large knife blade is excellent at puncturing through
light armor; however it will struggle against tougher and more sophisticated
material.
My opinion: This isn't a good static weapon. It is hard to get a decent blow in
with this.
*Continuous*
These weapons spin, or don't stop if you hold their weapon button. They are
useful for causing damage.
Hardened Steel circular
220 credits
Weight: 3kg
Game description: The hardened steel circular can spin at over 6000rpm.
Although the blade is capable of cutting through certain armor types, it is not
designed for cutting hard metals and similar blades have been known to shatter
if subjected to sharp impacts.
My opinion: A good starting weapon, although it does break far too easily.
Carbon steel cutting disk
4000 credits
Weight: 4kg
Game description: The carbon steel cutting disk has blades that are almost
razor sharp and the carbon steel composition ensures that it will not shatter
easily. It is powered by a Dosch 750 motor to an incredible 12000rpm and is
capable of causing lots of damage.
My opinion: Once you have this cutting disk you will need no alternative. This
is a brilliant weapon to have. Power, weight and speed are all good factors for
this weapon. It is expensive though.
Monstoco chain saw
220 credits
Weight: 8kg
Game description: The Monstoco chain saw is cheap and relatively durable. The
Monstoco petrol driven chainsaw makes an excellent choice for a competitor on a
budget. Originally designed to cut wood it will effectively cut through a lot
of armor types.
My opinion: This is one of the weakest weapons in the game. Stay away from this
one!
Lawnmower blade
200 credits
Weight: 4kg
Game description: This lawnmower blade is powered by a small 2-stroke petrol
engine that spins the blade at over 600rpm. It works a treat on less well-
armored robots, and looks fantastic.
My opinion: This is a good choice for first time builders. This is a light,
cheap and powerful weapon. This is brilliant for budget robots.
Flame thrower
2000 credits
Weight: 7kg
Game description: The flame thrower is fed from a propane tank at 500psi. The
propane is mixed with air and then expelled over a pilot light to ignite the
gas which burns at temperatures of up to 300 degrees.
My opinion: Although this is an ideal long range weapon, it is difficult to do
decent damage with it and the fuel quickly runs out. Not to mention some
tournaments ban this weapon.
Torch cutter
9500 credits
Weight: 7kg
Game description: The torch cutter uses a mixture of powdered metal and a
fluorocarbon oxidizing agent, which is heated by a thermal generator to 600
degrees at which point it ignites, burning at a temperature of over 3000
degrees.
My opinion: Much better than the flame thrower, but it is very expensive (one
of the most expensive components in the game!) and it is banned from some
tournaments. It has decent attack power though.
Flywheel
3800 credits
Weight: 14kg
Game description: The flywheel disc itself weighs 10kg and is powered to a
speed of 700rpm by most motors. At full speed the disc stores a tremendous
amount of energy causing colossal damage to anything that gets in the way.
My opinion: It has good power, and takes little time to spin at full speed. It
is heavy though, and should only be bought if you can take the weight.
Big Flywheel
5000 credits
Weight: 20kg
Game description: The big flywheel is the big one. The disc alone weighs over
12.5kg. Its power source allows the disc to reach speeds of over 1200rpm
without any great increase in spin-up time.
My opinion: The big flywheel is heavy, and takes a LONG time to get to full
speed. It has great power if you can the weight and battle time.
*Swinging*
Axes and hammers aplenty here. Just be aware that axes and hammers can't be
used to self right your robot.
Small eccentric electric drive axe
500 credits
Weight: 6kg
Game description: This eccentric drive axe can attack many times per second.
Its hit power is low, but its rate of fire means it can do a good deal of
damage.
My opinion: Good for a budget robot, but there is a better version of this axe
for those with more money.
Low power electric fire axe
375 credits
Weight: 10kg
Game description: This fire axe can deliver a nasty blow; however it is fairly
weak and the handle can break rather too easily.
My opinion: Do not bother with this axe; it is more trouble than it's worth.
Low power pneumatic hammer
300 credits
Weight: 7kg
Game description: The hammer is fairly heavy and is powered downwards with some
force. It causes a good deal of impact damage; however it may take several hits
to cause any real damage.
My opinion: This isn't worth bothering with either. It is far too weak to be
worthwhile.
Electric hammer
650 credits
Weight: 10kg
Game description: The electric hammer is a heavy hitter, powered by a strong
electric motor. It can cause a lot of impact damage in a short period of time,
and its sheer weight can upset sensitive electronics with a good hit.
My opinion: If you really want a hammer this is the one to go for, although for
damage you're better off with an axe.
Spring powered axe
350 credits
Weight: 10kg
Game description: A car starter motor pulls the axe down onto a car suspension
spring, compressing it. When the spring is fully compressed the weapon is
locked in place. When fired, the catch releases and the spring propels the axe
forward with considerable force.
My opinion: This axe takes too long to propel back, so you only have one
effective strike. You are better off with a different axe.
Electric (eccentric drive) axe
1500 credits
Weight: 8kg
Game description: This specially forged axe blade is powered through an
eccentric drive mechanism allowing the weapon to strike several times a second.
Although it lacks the punch of a pneumatically powered axe, the high rate of
fire inflicts damage quickly.
My opinion: This is a clear case of speed vs. power. This an excellent axe for
speed and can be a real heavy hitter.
Pneumatic pick axe
1400 credits
Weight: 7kg
Game description: The pickaxe head is propelled with up to 900N of force by a
pneumatic ram operating at 150psi. The ram is fed from a Campbell and Brewster
fire extinguisher containing CO2 at 1000psi. It delivers a nasty punch.
My opinion: This is my favorite axe. It is the most powerful axe available, but
it isn't the fastest. I you like power, this axe is for you.
*Gripping*
The weapons here are designed to grip or crush your opponent. There are some
good and powerful weapons here.
Pincers
400 credits
Weight: 5kg
Game description: Pincers grasp an opponent allowing a robot to be dragged
around the arena, providing there is enough traction.
My opinion: Not a good offensive weapon, but can really work well with another
weapon ensuring there is no escape. I don't really like these too much but you
may have other thoughts.
Jaws of Life
6500 credits
Weight: 12kg
Game description: Liof industries "Jaws of Life" are used by emergency services
throughout the globe to cut accident victims free from their cars. Now, this
compact system has been adapted for more destructive purposes.
My opinion: This is one heavy-duty claw. It is a very powerful but very heavy
and expensive weapon. Again, this works well with another weapon, but it is a
weapon in itself.
Hydraulic piercing arm (6 tons)
2200 credits
Weight: 9kg
Game description: This arm is moved by a specially designed hydraulic system,
crushing opponent robots between the pointed end of the arm and the top of the
robot. The arm creates over 6 tons of downward force.
My opinion: This is a good weapon to use for its power and ability to keep
robots in your grasp, but you are better off with the second variant.
Hydraulic piercing arm (8 tons)
5500 credits
Weight: 12kg
Game description: This arm is moved by a specially designed hydraulic system,
crushing opponent robots between the pointed end of the arm and the top of the
robot. The arm creates over 8 tons of downward force.
My opinion: This is the ultimate in piercing arms, definitely worth it if you
can spare the weight and credits.
*Reciprocating*
This is where to find your drills and punching spikes. These weapons don't
cause too much damage but can hit the inside and outside of a robot.
Pneumatic Ram
1000 credits
Weight: 7kg
Game description: The pneumatic ram causes a good deal of impact damage with
each shot. 200psi of power forces the solid steel head against an opponent with
crippling force.
My opinion: This is a decent offensive weapon which is good for robots with
high speed, but there are better weapons to use.
Pneumatic Spike
1000 credits
Weight: 7kg
Game description: A 30cm titanium spike is driven forward by a pneumatic ram at
200psi, powered by a diving bottle filled with CO2. The force generated is
sufficient to pierce 3mm steel armor with relative ease.
My opinion: This can be used in the same way as the pneumatic ram, and just
like the pneumatic ram it is not one of the best weapons.
Pneumatic Drill
1250 credits
Weight: 8kg
Game description: This is a miniaturized version of the type of drill used by
construction workers the world over. A hardened steel drill bit reciprocates
back at forth quickly to cause some vicious piercing damage.
My opinion: This is the ultimate reciprocating weapon...and it is not
impressive. If you must have one of these weapons choose this, but there are
much better weapons elsewhere.
*Flipping*
These weapons attempt to turn opponent robots over leaving them on their backs.
These are very effective weapons at immobilizing robots.
Small electric lifting spikes
400 credits
Weight: 5kg
Game description: The small electric lifting spikes that stick out from the
robot are raised by the drive source, although a lot of strain would be placed
on a low spec motor if a competitor attempted to lift too much with this unit.
My opinion: I dislike these spikes, they can barely lift an opponent not to
mention flip them over. You can't self right with them either.
Electric lifting spikes
1300 credits
Weight: 8kg
Game description: The two horizontal spikes are raised to vertical by a 24V
actuator. After lifting an opponent it is then possible to either tip the
opponent robot over to immobilize it, or push it into arena obstacles.
My opinion: These are good lifting spikes, able to tip robots over more easily.
They make a good ramming weapon too, but you can't use them to self-right.
Small built-in flipping arm
1600 credits
Weight: 4kg
Game description: The small built in flipping arm is a great way of flipping an
opponent on their back, where they will often struggle to recover!
My opinion: This is a poor flipping weapon. I think you can self right with it
though. Look for the larger alternative.
Large built-in flipper
1600 credits
Weight: 7kg
Game description: The large built-in flipper consists of a large arm on the
front of the robot that pivots forward. Powered by two pneumatic rams fed off a
divers' bottle containing liquid nitrogen, this weapon will comfortably lift
over 100kg.
My opinion: This is a brilliant flipper and self righting mechanism that is
only flawed by the fact it is tricky to use.
Small pneumatic lifting scoop
1600 credits
Weight: 9kg
Game description: The lifting scoop is a handy weapon- both good for shoving
opponents around the arena and tipping them over.
My opinion: This is a good weapon for ramming robots, though it isn't a good
flipper and it doesn't act as a self righting mechanism.
Pneumatic lifting scoop
1600 credits
Weight: 12kg
Game description: The large scoop is great for flipping opponents, and is also
useful for pushing robots around the arena.
My opinion: This is also good for ramming robots and is an effective flipper
too. It still can't turn your robot back on its wheels though.
Lifting arm
600 credits
Weight: 4kg
Game description: The lifting arm is a simple and cheap mechanism that can be
used to flip robots or self right if you are upside down.
My opinion: This is a simple but effective flipper and is a good self righting
mechanism.
Srimech
300 credits
Weight: 2kg
Game description: This is a srimech (self righting mechanism), an aluminum pole
with a small CO2 pneumatic ram on one end and a T-shaped crosspiece at the
other to maintain balance. An essential purchase to help get your robot back on
its wheels.
My opinion: If you don't have a weapon that can self-right your robot then it
is essential that you buy this weapon.
-Armor-
The armor is what protects your robots insides. It prevents the motor and all
other parts from being damaged. It needs to be strong though as armor can be
smashed off a robot during battle. You can change the armor as often as you
want in the workshop.
Wood
100 credits
Weight: 5kg
Game description: Wood is the weakest armor your robot can be fitted with. It
is light, but is susceptible to all forms of attack.
My opinion: Never armor your robot in wood unless you want to be immobilized
quickly. It is the worst armor you can have as it gets ripped off very quickly.
Aluminum
400 credits
Weight: 12kg
Game description: Aluminum is cheap and light, and so makes the ideal armor for
competitors who are on a budget or just starting out. It will provide
protection in early competitions, but more powerful robots will have no trouble
smashing through it.
My opinion: I prefer not to armor my robots in aluminum as it is weak. You
should only really use if your budget is very tight. Even then, the scrap yard
has some good bargains.
Steel
600 credits
Weight: 25kg
Game description: Steel armor is relatively cheap, and moderately resilient to
being pierced. However, it is very heavy, so fitting anything more than thin
steel armor will lead to compromises having to be made in other aspects of a
robots design.
My opinion: If you can spare the weight, this armor is good for all robots,
whether you are on a budget or not. It also escapes the weakness and strength
game (Saw beats this etc.). It is good armor.
Polycarbonate
1500 credits
Weight: 10kg
Game description: More commonly known as "bullet proof glass", polycarbonate is
a very effective armor material. It is very resilient to piercing, although it
is possible to cut through with certain saws and can be melted at high
temperatures.
My opinion: This is good for lightweight robots as it is lighter than aluminum,
though it isn't worth bothering with if you are building another type of robot.
Titanium
5000 credits
Weight: 12kg
Game description: Titanium weighs slightly more than aluminum, but as it is so
much stronger, far less is required for the same amount of protection. This
materials extreme hardness makes it very difficult to be cut or pierced.
My opinion: This is definitely worth getting if you can afford it. You won't be
able to get it until later in the game though.
Kevlar
1000 credits
Weight: 9kg
Game description: Kevlar is a form of woven nylon cloth used in bullet proof
vests. It is very difficult to pierce, but can be cut by most saws.
My opinion: Unless you are building a lightweight robot I wouldn't bother with
this armor.
-Extras-
These are the extra parts to your robot to make it look good. You decide what
looks good and add it to your robot. I will not put my opinion here as there is
no opinion necessary. All I will say is that the extras improve your robots
defense, so get buying!
*Industrial*
Fog Horn
90 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: This foghorn will let everyone know where you are, and
perhaps scare them out of your way!
Train Horn
90 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: Do the locomotion with this authentic train horn.
Whistle
90 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: Now you can pretend to be refbot with this ear piercing
whistle.
Industrial lights
30 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: These flashing orange industrial lights offer a warning to
your opponent that some serious machinery is on its way.
Headlights
50 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: With these powerful halogen headlights you will always be
able to keep your opponent in plain view.
Searchlights
90 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: Never loose an opponent again with these powerful
searchlights.
Bolts
90 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: Give your robot the industrial feel with these heavy duty
bolts.
Pipes
90 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: This fake pipe work will give the impression that your robot
requires vast amounts of fuel and power.
Smoke exhaust
90 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: The smoke exhaust is ready to churn out clouds of thick black
smoke. Ideal for the competitor who wants to fight dirty.
Police lights
90 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: Turn your robot into an official robot wars enforcer with
these authentic flashing police lights.
Police siren
90 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: This police siren will make your robot an arresting sight.
*Gothic*
Pipe Organ horn
90 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: The perfect addition to a creepy robot, the eerie blast of
pipe organ music from this horn will make your opponents shell crawl.
Frankenstein's monster
90 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: Frankenstein's monster stirs from his slumber to scare away
all opponents. This is one gruesome extra.
Medusa's head
90 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: Turn your opponents to stone with this terrifying Medusa's
head.
Van de Graf balls
90 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: Keep the energy flowing with this pair of Van de Graf balls.
Shocking!
Evil eyes
90 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: Give your opponents the evil eye, and watch them run in
terror!
Bloodshot eyeballs
90 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: Make your robot look like it's been up all night with these
bloodshot eyeballs.
*Fun*
Clown Hooter
90 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: Take your opponent's mind off their imminent destruction with
this comedic clowns' hooter.
Christmas tree lights
45 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: Give your robot a little festive cheer with this set of
flashing fairy lights.
Angle poise lamp
100 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: The angle poise lamp is sure to blind any opponent that dares
to come too close.
Stuffed bear
10 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: Attach this cuddly bear to your robot as a mascot, or offer
it as a sacrifice at the altar of Sir Killalot.
Bauble
90 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: Make everyone think its Christmas with this bauble- let's
hope your robot doesn't jingle all the way!
Windmill
90 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: This windmill will certainly brighten up your robot- just
hope you don't get blown away!
Bubble wand
90 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: Your robot can be forever blowing bubbles with this excellent
bubble wand attachment.
Disco lights
90 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: Transform your robot into a real disco fiend with these
multicolored flashing disco lights.
*Flags*
Union Jack
40 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: Pledge your allegiance to Britain with this Union Jack flag.
Tricolor
40 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: Pledge your allegiance to France with this Tricolor flag.
German Flag
40 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: Pledge your allegiance to Germany with this German flag.
Jolly Roger
40 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: Live life as a pirate beneath the Jolly Roger.
Spanish Flag
40 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: Pledge your allegiance to Spain with this Spanish flag.
Italian Flag
40 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: Pledge your allegiance to Italy with this Italian flag.
Red Flag
40 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: Get ready to look angry with this red flag- just hope it's
not like a red rag to a bull!
Blue Flag
40 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: Look cool with this blue flag. Just hope you're not too
chilled in the arena!
*Animal*
Cow moo horn
90 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: Get into the bovine mode with this authentic cow moo.
Animal Growl horn
90 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: Feeling like a tiger? Now you can sound like one with this
ferocious growl.
Bull horns
50 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: Give your opponent a taste of the rodeo with these very
realistic pair of bulls' horns.
Spines
45 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: Go for the spiky look with these pointy spines.
Stegosaurus Spikes
45 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: Take your robot back to the Jurassic era with these
stegosaurus spikes.
Sharp teeth
90 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: Tear through the opposition with these deadly sharp teeth.
Fluffy ear
90 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: Listen out for trouble with these fluffy ears.
Tiger claw
90 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: Make your mark with these vicious looking tiger claws.
Pig's tail
90 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: Now you can snuffle for truffles with this curly wurly pig's
tail.
Lucky rabbit's foot
90 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: Make sure lady luck is on your side with this lucky rabbit's
foot.
Shark's fin
90 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: Cause a stir and make waves with this real shark fin.
Insect Antennae
90 credits
Weight: 1kg
Game description: Now you can feel your way with these superb insect antennae.
===============================================================================
Section 6: Robot Statistics
===============================================================================
Here are the statistics for the robots of the game. I hope you find them
useful.
-TV Robots-
Name: Hypnodisc
Cost: 13600 credits
Weight: 81kg
Strength: 1030
Top speed: 35
Pushing power: 102
Agility: 32</pre><pre id="faqspan-2">
Attack power: 95
Weapons: Disc (Flywheel) and self righting mechanism.
Name: Chaos 2
Cost: 16050 credits
Weight: 72kg
Strength: 920
Top speed: 35
Pushing power: 102
Agility: 32
Attack power: 80
Weapons: CO2 Flipper
Name: Panic Attack
Cost: 5800 credits
Weight: 79kg
Strength: 1070
Top speed: 35
Pushing power: 102
Agility: 32
Attack power: 30
Weapons: Twin lifting spikes and self righting top
Name: Mortis
Cost: 40800 credits
Weight: 95kg
Strength: 1280
Top speed: 112
Pushing power: 153
Agility: 40
Attack power: 60
Weapons: Diamond edged axe and lifting arm
Name: Pussycat
Cost: 12780 credits
Weight: 82kg
Strength: 955
Top speed: 32
Pushing power: 34
Agility: 80
Attack power: 80
Weapons: Carbon cutting disc
Name: Diotoir
Cost: 5430 credits
Weight: 75kg
Strength: 910
Top speed: 32
Pushing power: 34
Agility: 40
Attack power: 45
Weapons: Lifting arm
Name: Thor
Cost: 16900 credits
Weight: 79kg
Strength: 960
Top speed: 17
Pushing power: 51
Agility: 40
Attack power: 105
Weapons: Hammer and side spikes
Name: Behemoth
Cost: 11700 credits
Weight: 85kg
Strength: 980
Top speed: 17
Pushing power: 51
Agility: 42
Attack power: 125
Weapons: Front scoop and twin axes
Name: Terrorhurtz
Cost: 19300 credits
Weight: 79kg
Strength: 880
Top speed: 17
Pushing power: 51
Agility: 40
Attack power: 70
Weapons: Double edged axe
Name: Razer
Cost: 8700 credits
Weight: 97kg
Strength: 990
Top speed: 34
Pushing power: 60
Agility: 40
Attack power: 90
Weapons: Hydraulic arm
Name: Firestorm
Cost: 7500 credits
Weight: 82kg
Strength: 740
Top speed: 17
Pushing power: 30
Agility: 10
Attack power: 30
Weapons: Flipper
-House Robots-
Name: Sgt. Bash
Cost: 33450 credits
Weight: 117kg
Strength: 1230
Top speed: 17
Pushing power: 51
Agility: 30
Attack power: 175
Weapons: Jaws of Life and flame thrower
Name: Dead metal
Cost: 35350 credits
Weight: 100kg
Strength: 1190
Top speed: 17
Pushing power: 51
Agility: 30
Attack power: 165
Weapons: Pincers and circular saw
Name: Matilda
Cost: 26700 credits
Weight: 108kg
Strength: 1100
Top speed: 17
Pushing power: 51
Agility: 120
Attack power: 130
Weapons: Tusks and chainsaw
Name: Shunt
Cost: 24250 credits
Weight: 101kg
Strength: 1340
Top speed: 16
Pushing power: 13
Agility: 100
Attack power: 170
Weapons: Scoop, plough and diamond edged axe
Name: Sir Killalot
Cost: 46200 credits
Weight: 197kg
Strength: 1190
Top speed: 17
Pushing power: 51
Agility: 72
Attack power: 160
Weapons: Jaws of Life and lance
===============================================================================
Section 7: Battle Tips
===============================================================================
Here are some strategies for winning robot battles in the arena:
1. Flip your opponent.
This is extremely effective as most robots don't have a way of getting back on
their wheels. Using a flipper to flip them over can win you a lot of battles.
If you have a lot of skill you can even flip robots out of the arena!
2. Avoid arena obstacles.
Obstacles in the arena can devastate your robot or take it out of battle. Avoid
arena obstacles at all costs.
3. Use arena obstacles to your advantage.
Of course, they can also devastate your opponent. Try and get your opponent in
the path of an arena obstacle to help take them apart.
4. Attack an unarmed area of a robot.
You do not want to be in the range of an opponent's weapon. Try and attack an
area with no weapon such as the sides. You will cause good damage and not
receive any.
5. Breaking a robot down.
Sometimes you will face a robot that can self-right or that can't be taken out
quickly. In this case keep attacking an unarmed area and break the robots armor
off. Break the innards once this is done and you can immobilize a robot during
battle after a few minutes.
6. Make good use of your weapons.
If you have an effective weapon, use it. It's no good having a giant flywheel
if you are not going to use it. Most weapons can cause decent damage on a robot
and you must use them to their full capability.
7. The good old-fashioned art of ramming.
If you lose your weapons in battle try ramming your opponent. Ramming against a
wall can do damage in itself and can turn your robot into a weapon. Ramming can
also drive your opponent into obstacles and other dangers.
8. Controlled attack.
If your robot is damaged an all out assault could finish you off as well as
your opponent. Instead retreat and attack with thought. This could save you
from defeat in long grueling matches.
9. Conceal your weak spot.
If your robot has an unarmed area or any form of weakness do not let your
opponent take advantage of it. Always ensure your opponent is facing your
weapon and not a clean target for attack.
These tips should allow you to win every battle you take part in. Follow them
with care.
===============================================================================
Section 8: Tournament Rules and Strategies
===============================================================================
Here are all the tournaments you can enter in professional mode, the rules and
strategies for victory.
-London, England-
Robot wars Championship
Type: Knockout
Rounds: 5
Competitors: 24
Entry Fee: 0 credits
Prize money: 2000 credits
Cost: Unrestricted
Weight allowance: 0kg-74kg (Lightweight to heavyweight)
Weaponry allowed: Robot wars (no flame throwers or torch cutters)
Tips: This should be one of your first tournament fights. A flipper comes in
handy in this tournament as none of the robots have self-righting mechanisms.
Just keep winning the one on one battles and the top prize is yours.
Assault
Type: Knockout
Rounds: 2
Competitors: 18
Entry Fee: 0 credits
Prize money: 1000 credits
Cost: Unrestricted
Weight allowance: 0kg-74kg (Lightweight to heavyweight)
Weaponry allowed: Robot wars (no flame throwers or torch cutters)
Tips: A flipper is useful here too as none of the robots have self righting
mechanisms. You will wise to stay away from the crowd and only attack a single
robot in this tournament. You can win if you can last long enough.
World championship
Type: Knockout
Rounds: 5
Competitors: 24
Entry Fee: 25000 credits
Prize money: 100000 credits
Cost: Unrestricted
Weight allowance: Unrestricted
Weaponry allowed: Robot wars (no flame throwers or torch cutters)
Tips: This is going to be a test of your skill as you will face some tough
robots here. A flipper is good to have but have a secondary weapon for robots
that can self right.
-North Sea-
Alpha Viking Open Trophy
Type: Knockout
Rounds: 4
Competitors: 12
Entry Fee: 500 credits
Prize money: 3000 credits
Cost: Unrestricted
Weight allowance: Unrestricted
Weaponry allowed: Robot wars (no flame throwers or torch cutters)
Tips: A flipper will defeat most of the robots here, but be aware of heavy
robots. Thor is your only real threat here, but he's quite easily disposed of.
North Sea Sabotage
Type: Collateral Damage
Rounds: 2
Competitors: 25
Entry Fee: 500 credits
Prize money: 2800 credits
Cost: Unrestricted
Weight allowance: 0kg-74kg (Lightweight to heavyweight)
Weaponry allowed: Advanced
Tips: You can try to take out some robots with a flipper, but make sure to
destroy the barrels. It becomes difficult as there are a lot of competitors but
a flipper will make this easier.
Midnight Madness
Type: Mad Bomber
Rounds: 2
Competitors: 25
Entry Fee: 500 credits
Prize money: 3000 credits
Cost: Unrestricted
Weight allowance: 55kg-74kg (Medium-weight to heavyweight)
Weaponry allowed: Static only (No moving weapons)
Tips: This is hard as you can't have any real weapons, and you have to be
really careful that you aren't flipped over. However, the only CPU robot that
will move is the one with the bomb, and sometimes the robot it is chasing. Just
stay away from the robot with the bomb and give the bomb away immediately if
the bomb is placed on you.
-New York-
Liberty Lightweight Cup
Type: Annihilator
Rounds: 2
Competitors: 10
Entry Fee: 2500 credits
Prize money: 16000 credits
Cost: Unrestricted
Weight allowance: 0kg-54kg (Lightweights only)
Weaponry allowed: Advanced
Tips: You can't have any heavy duty weapons in this tournament, but you won't
really need them. Just arm yourself with a flipper and some basic drive
mechanisms and you shouldn't have too much trouble. Just flip all your
opponents over and victory should be yours. Beware of Buzz though; it has a
self righting mechanism, so just throw in the hopper or the molten metal to
dispose of him quickly.
Nerves of Steel
Type: Knockout
Rounds: 3
Competitors: 24
Entry Fee: 3000 credits
Prize money: 20000 credits
Cost: Unrestricted
Weight allowance: Unrestricted
Weaponry allowed: Advanced
Tips: This is probably the most difficult tournament in the game. Your
opponents follow you everywhere and if they get a double team attack in you
will be mincemeat. Stay away from the crowd; that is the best tactic I can
give. Take the opportunity to pick a robot from the crowd and flip it over or
put it in the hopper. There are a lot of TV robots and robots that can self
right, which just makes life harder. Keep trying and eventually you will win.
Blast Furnace
Type: Collateral Damage
Rounds: 3
Competitors: 32
Entry Fee: 3000 credits
Prize money: 20000 credits
Cost: Unrestricted
Weight allowance: 55kg-74kg (Medium-weight to heavyweight)
Weaponry allowed: Advanced
Tips: Flip any robots that can't self right so you can win by being the last
robot standing. Make sure you destroy pipes, boxes and barrels to score points
though!
-Germany-
Hamburg Heavyweight cup
Type: Annihilator
Rounds: 4
Competitors: 16
Entry Fee: 1000 credits
Prize money: 5000 credits
Cost: Unrestricted
Weight allowance: 62kg+ (Heavyweight and above)
Weaponry allowed: Swinging weapons only
Tips: It is worth buying Terrorhurtz for this competition as it makes it a lot
easier. You can make your own axed robot for this if you wish. The easiest
thing to do is to push robots into the water for easy victories. This
tournament isn't too difficult to win.
Skull and crushed bones
Type: Capture the Flag
Rounds: 3
Competitors: 24
Entry Fee: 1000 credits
Prize money: 5000 credits
Cost: Unrestricted
Weight allowance: 0-61kg (Lightweight to medium-weight)
Weaponry allowed: No flipping weapons
Tips: A fast robot will help here. Just get the flag and run. Drive somewhere
where the CPU doesn't go often. The area near the pit works wonders here. This
isn't too hard to win either.
Iron Fist
Type: Knockout
Rounds: 5
Competitors: 24
Entry Fee: 1000 credits
Prize money: 5000 credits
Cost: Unrestricted
Weight allowance: Unrestricted
Weaponry allowed: Advanced
Tips: A flipper is useful as always, but any strategy that you find that works
will be fine. Make use of the water for quick victories.
-Sao Paulo-
Scrap yard challenge cup
Type: Knockout
Rounds: 3
Competitors: 18
Entry Fee: 1500 credits
Prize money: 8000 credits
Cost: 0-5000 credits allowed only
Weight allowance: Unrestricted
Weaponry allowed: Advanced
Tips: The cost restriction is rather annoying, but if you are using the same
budget robot from the start you will be fine. Use a flipper as always and make
use of the crusher and other arena features and you'll win in no time.
Destruction Derby
Type: Collateral Damage
Rounds: 2
Competitors: 25
Entry Fee: 1500 credits
Prize money: 8000 credits
Cost: 0-5000 credits allowed only
Weight allowance: Unrestricted
Weaponry allowed: Advanced
Tips: Use the same tactics as you do in other Collateral damage tournaments.
You have a cost restriction to follow though, but it shouldn't bother you. Use
a flipper to eliminate the competition and smash those items!
Chainsaw Massacre
Type: Knockout
Rounds: 5
Competitors: 24
Entry Fee: 2000 credits
Prize money: 13000 credits
Cost: 0-5000 credits allowed only
Weight allowance: Unrestricted
Weaponry allowed: Only chainsaws allowed
Tips: This is a crazy and pointless tournament dedicated to one of the worst
weapons in the game. Either put two chainsaws on your machine or just don't
bother with weapons. Try to flip your opponent with a wedge shaped robot or ram
them into the crusher. This isn't too difficult to win.
-Japan-
Rooftop Punishment
Type: Knockout
Rounds: 4
Competitors: 12
Entry Fee: 500 credits
Prize money: 3000 credits
Cost: Unrestricted
Weight allowance: Unrestricted
Weaponry allowed: Advanced
Tips: The house robots tend to go wild in this and come out when they aren't
supposed to, so be on the lookout. Use your regular battle tactics and make use
of the skyline and gaps in the wall.
Rooftop Chase
Type: Capture the Flag
Rounds: 2
Competitors: 20
Entry Fee: 500 credits
Prize money: 3000 credits
Cost: Unrestricted
Weight allowance: 0-61kg (Lightweight to medium-weight)
Weaponry allowed: Advanced
Tips: Just grab the flag and run. It couldn't be simpler.
Rooftop Grenadier
Type: Mad Bomber
Rounds: 2
Competitors: 25
Entry Fee: 500 credits
Prize money: 3000 credits
Cost: Unrestricted
Weight allowance: Unrestricted
Weaponry allowed: Advanced
Tips: Run away from the "bomb" robot and push the other robots off the edge and
you will have an easy victory.
-Siberia-
Russian Rampage
Type: Annihilator
Rounds: 5
Competitors: 32
Entry Fee: 3000 credits
Prize money: 20000 credits
Cost: Unrestricted
Weight allowance: Unrestricted
Weaponry allowed: Robot wars (No flame throwers or torch cutters)
Tips: Use your usual battle tactics to win this one. The TV robots often make
appearances here so be on your toes. The mine field is a good feature to use as
is the silo, though using the switch is tricky.
Flip Frenzy
Type: Knockout
Rounds: 5
Competitors: 24
Entry Fee: 3000 credits
Prize money: 18000 credits
Cost: Unrestricted
Weight allowance: 0-74kg (Lightweight to heavyweight)
Weaponry allowed: Flipping weapons only.
Tips: Make sure you can self-right, that will give you a chance. Beware of the
TV robots as they will give you a hard time. Just flip to win!
Heavy Bomber
Type: Mad Bomber
Rounds: 2
Competitors: 25
Entry Fee: 3000 credits
Prize money: 18000 credits
Cost: Unrestricted
Weight allowance: Unrestricted
Weaponry allowed: Advanced
Tips: Run away from the robot with the bomb and flip other robots or push them
into the silo pit. Beware of the TV robots as always.
-Kilimanjaro, Tanzania (Secret arena)-
(To unlock this arena, you must win the World championship tournament.)
Zorten Industries Cup
Type: Knockout
Rounds: 4
Competitors: 12
Entry Fee: 10000 credits
Prize money: 200000 credits
Cost: Unrestricted
Weight allowance: Unrestricted
Weaponry allowed: Advanced
Tips: Use your regular battle tactics, making sure you use the arena features.
Just beware of the TV robots and you'll do fine.
Convert Operations
Type: Capture the Flag
Rounds: 2
Competitors: 24
Entry Fee: 10000 credits
Prize money: 150000 credits
Cost: Unrestricted
Weight allowance: 55kg-74kg (Medium-weight to heavyweight)
Weaponry allowed: Static weapons only
Tips: Just grab the flag and run, and be careful not to get flipped over.
Clean Sweep
Type: Collateral Damage
Rounds: 3
Competitors: 32
Entry Fee: 10000 credits
Prize money: 150000 credits
Cost: Unrestricted
Weight allowance: Unrestricted
Weaponry allowed: Advanced
Tips: Flip robots over and smash the items. Beware of the TV robots, if they
appear just forget about flipping and smash items like crazy.
===============================================================================
Section 9: Mini Game Tips
===============================================================================
There are only three mini games in this game, and I thought I would go over
them.
-Game 1: The slalom-
The rules to this are simple, you have to weave along the dotted line and avoid
the barrels (thus going around them). The best way to do this is to use a fast
and maneuverable robot that you feel comfortable driving.
-Game 2: One-on-one battle-
This is exactly the same as a normal one-on-one battle except you can pick your
opponent. You should look under battle tips for information on this.
-Game 3: Ultimate challenge-
This is a one-on-one against a house robot! You really need to be cautious,
avoid the robot you are challenging at all costs and only attack an area that
is unarmed. When the pit opens you should try and ram the house robot in it. It
is difficult to beat them, but it isn't impossible.
===============================================================================
Section 10: Arena Explanations and Strategies
===============================================================================
Here is a list of all the arenas that you can fight in during the game. There
are also strategies included to ensure victory in any arena you fight in.
-London, England-
This is the original TV studio that robots fight in on the show. Hazards
include flame throwers, angle grinders, spikes (wall hazards), the pit, the
arena floor flipper, the flame grill and the corner patrol zones. Push your
opponent into these features to inflict maximum damage. The pit has a red
border, while the flipper has a black border. Make sure you don't get stuck in
either of these hazards (the pit especially!) or any others for that matter.
-North Sea-
This arena is on an oilrig in the North Sea. Hazards include: Barrels, the
drill, pipes, corner patrol zones, the sea outside and gaps in the wall. Again,
use these features for your advantage and make sure your opponent receives
damage from them. Try to ram your opponent into the gap or over the wall for a
quick win.
-New York-
This arena is in a factory. Hazards include: Boxes, pipes, moving rails, the
hopper, the lava pit and the corner patrol zones. The boxes and pipes don't do
any decent damage but the corner patrol zone is a good place to put damage onto
your opponent. Use the hopper or the lava pit for an easy victory.
-Germany-
This arena is at a German dock. There isn't much to damage your opponent with,
just the items and the corner patrol zones (use these as always). The water and
the ships hopper are good to use for an easy victory.
-Sao Paulo-
This arena is a classic; it is placed in a scrap yard. There are items to
damage opponent with, as well as the corner patrol zones and the crusher. Few
robots make it out of the crusher when it is active, and those that do are
usually ripped apart when they come out. Place your opponent in it and make
sure you don't get crushed!
-Japan-
This arena is on a factory rooftop. There are items to use as usual, as well as
the corner patrol zones. The centre glass pane doesn't take too much weight, so
be careful if you are a heavy robot. The gaps in the wall are handy too. Be
careful though, the house robots go crazy here are sometimes come out when they
aren't supposed to.
-Siberia-
This arena has many interesting features. The items and house robots are here
as usual, but there is a communication tower, a silo pit and a minefield to
play in! The switch to the silo pit is up the ramps from the corners, but it
can be tricky to use so just stick to blowing your opponent up in the
minefield.
-Kilimanjaro, Tanzania (Secret arena)-
(To unlock this arena you must win the world championship.) This is a rather
simple arena. The items and corner patrol zones are here as usual, but the only
other thing is the rocket flame pit in the centre of the arena. This is a good
place to inflict damage on your opponent, but really you should be able to use
your own skill to win in this arena.
===============================================================================
Section 11: Contacting Me
===============================================================================
If you have a problem or question that hasn't been answered in this FAQ, then
you contact me by my e-mail address (
[email protected]). Do take into
consideration that:
a) I will only answer game related questions. No useless questions either.
b) I will read FAQ suggestions but only if they are useful. (No pointless e-
mails)
c) NO SPAM!
I will reply as soon as I can.
===============================================================================
Section 12: Credits
===============================================================================
I would wish to thank:
CJayC for posting this and operating Game FAQs.
My parents for buying this game for me.
Me for writing this guide.
The creators of the game and the writers of the instruction manual (for the
rules and explanations section).
===============================================================================
Section 13: Copyright
===============================================================================
Copyright 2003-2004 Robert Watt
This may not be reproduced under any circumstances except for personal, private
use. It may not be placed on any web site or otherwise distributed publicly
without advance written permission. Use of this guide on any other web site or
as a part of any public display is strictly prohibited, and a violation of
copyright. Only Game FAQs and Neoseeker are permitted to display and use this
FAQ.
