Gran Turismo
B-Class License Winning Strategies Guide
Sony Computer Entertainment/Polyphony Digital for the
Sony PlayStation 1 Console
WARNING: This guide will ONLY work for the American versions of the game
Compiled by Mark Kim
Final Version
Date of Final Assembly: March 27, 2005
Copyright Information
---------------------
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========================================================================
GENERAL INFORMATION
Make: Gran Turismo
Developer: Polyphony Digital
Publisher: Sony Computer Entertainment
Release Date: First Quarter 1998
ESRB Classification: E for Everyone, Suitable for All Ages
Genre: Racing
Platform: Sony PlayStation Type 1
MSRP: Sold as Greatest Hits for Low Price if still available
Recommended Controllers: Sony Analog Dual-Shock Controller
Features: Memory Card Save. Each save requires in between 1-5 blocks.
========================================================================
HISTORY OF THIS FAQ
March 27, 2005: This is the final edition of this FAQ as I will no longer
update this for any reason. Sorry.
========================================================================
CONTENTS OF THIS FAQ
* Newsflash
* My recommendations
* Castrolization of the Cars
* What is a B Class License?
* Attacking the B-Class Examinations
= Starting and Stopping using a Mazda Demio
= Starting and Stopping using a Mitsubishi GTO Twinturbo
= Cornering Deep Forest's first hairpin with a Honda Civic Del Sol
= Cornering Deep Forest's first hairpin with a Nissan Silvia
= Cornering Deep Forest's first hairpin with a Mitsubishi GTO
= Handling the Ess at High Speed Ring with a Mitsubishi FTO
= Handling the Ess at High Speed Ring with a Nissan Silvia
= Attack the High Speed Ring (Final Examination)
* Sunday Cup
* Front-Engine, Front Drive Car Championship
* Front-Engine, Rear Drive Car Championship
* All Wheel Drive Car Championship
* Featherweight Car Championship
* The Do's and Dont's
* Some Rants
* Resources and Stuff
* Acknowledgements
* One Final Warning
========================================================================
NEWSFLASH
***AN IMPORTANT RANT FROM THE FAQ AUTHOR***
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THIS HAS BEEN MY POLICY EVER SINCE I HAVE STARTED TO RESTRICT THE
AMOUNT OF SITES THAT ARE PERMITTED TO MIRROR MY WORKS AND IT WILL
ALWAYS BE.
Note: This notice is derived on Brett "Nemesis" Franklin's Crazy Taxi
FAQ for the Sega Dreamcast although there has been some variations to
make this one more severe and a bit more formal. Also, I will repeat
this near the end of the document.
Always check
http://www.gamefaqs.com for the latest version of this
FAQ. Like I said, this is the final update of the FAQ's life as I have
declared an EOL on this FAQ, so there will be no more updates!!!
Sorry.
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========================================================================
RECOMMENDATIONS
1. When you start the game under fresh vanilla, you will start with
10,000 credits and no licenses for racing participation. First,
purchase a Toyota MA70 Supra (if you're hungry for power) or a used
Honda Prelude (if you are hungry for some control). Participate on
the spot race to polish up your skills (since you don't have a
license as I speak), then once your skills polish up, go get your
B-License.
2. Get your B License, throw either your MA70 Supra or Honda Prelude
on the Sunday Cup. You may not be able to Pole-Position on any of
the three courses, but you should be able to win 2 out of the 3
courses. I would try to win the Sunday Cup 2 times preferrably
using the Honda Prelude or MA70 Supra before going for a Nissan
Skyline GT-R V Spec (
http://www.psmonline.com). Sell your Mazda
Demios that you earn from winning the Sunday Cup back to Mazda,
sell the now-lemon first car you have back to its original dealer,
and use the dough to tune up your car. IF YOU ARE A CAREFUL DRIVER
WITH THE MA70 SUPRA, THEN YOU MAY BE ABLE TO DOMINATE THE RACE AND
EARN A TOTAL OF 28,500 CREDITS.
3. Later on, you may want to get the Mitsubishi FTO, and a new Toyota
Supra (
http://www.psmonline.com), but I would try to experiment
a good challenge with a Mitsubishi Eclipse, a Subaru Impreza, and
an Acura Integra Type R. While you might not like the idea of this,
you definitely should get to know the car's personality since Gran
Turismo isn't your average racing game.
4. Keep winning the Sunday Cup until you have enough money to tune up
your cars reserved for use with the All Wheel Drive, Front-Drive,
Front-Engine and Rear Drive, and Featherweight Car championships.
Continue to sell all the Mazda Demios back to Mazda for some cold
hard cash.
5. Use the special-purpose cars for the special events, and with the
right car and "Oomph", you should gain an unfair advantage against
the competition.
6. Having gained the skills you need for the Clubman Cup, and all
other A-Class Races, it's time to get your A-Class License right
after placing first on all B-Class Championships. As a practical
rule, you always save your game on the memory card before going
on to participate in another championship.
7. There's bound to be restrictions on the car that you're allowed to
use on the Special Event Championships, so keep that in mind. In
the featherweight car championships, I'll try to pin-point the cars
that are eligible for the Featherweight Car Championship by the time
you're reading the section covering these tactics.
8. Gran Turismo is the most realistic racing game up to date, so I
recommend that you just enjoy the game. Although you may get pissed
just because the computer races unfairly, you should try to discover
new techniques or/and routines to improve your skills. Having fun
while playing Gran Turismo is the most important part that I'm asking
of you.
9. I highly recommend that you go to
http://www.psmonline.com and check
out Jaz Rignall's Gran Turismo Guide.
========================================================================
CASTROLIZATION OF THE CARS
When I first created this document about 2 years ago, I felt that if
you modify the cars to the teeth, then the cars would definitely be
unbeatable. I was wrong. Because each cars have its own strengths
and weaknesses, beefing the cars up to maximum strength varies from
car to car. For example, a Viper GTS Coupe can't go up to NA Level
3 but starts out with a lot of horsepower and torque when you first
buy it. On the other hand, some of the better cars in the game (i.e.
Nissan Skyline GT-R VSpec) _can_ be beefed up to the teeth with the
highest level modification parts available in the game. Please
be warned that some cars may have higher prices as far as mod parts
are concerned.
Usually, cars perform better when they use maximum-strength modification
parts, but some cars perform better without the brute force they need.
Some of the Japanese Cars (i.e. Nissan Skyline GT-R VSpec) cannot perform
well unless you've placed a maximum-strength mod part or two. That is
why learning the tracks and winning them all is as important as fully
tuning your cars to the teeth.
Unless you are a real mechanic, you should never fiddle with some of the
settings because you can either make a car unstable, stiff, or even
worse, unforgiving to use. That is why you need to think twice before
even adjusting some of the car's properties (i.e. Suspension) before
even attempting this risk. That is why some cars perform better when
fully Castrolized than the others.
Castrolizing your car involves tuning up your car with the following
Tune-Ups:
* Muffler and Air Filter
= Racing Muffler and Air Filter
* Brakes
= Sports Brakes
= Brake Balance Controller
* Engine Tuning
= Tuned ROM
= Port Polishing
= Engine Balancing
= Bore and Stroke-Up (Increasing Displacement)
* For Turbo Cars
= Turbo Kit Level 4
= Racing High-Capacity Intercooler
* For Normal Aspirated Cars
= Normal Aspiration Tuneup Kit Level 3 (This applies ONLY to some cars)
* Transmission
= Racing Support Gearbox
= Triple-Plate Clutch
= Racing Flywheel
= Carbon Driveshaft (only applies to certain cars)
* Suspension
= Racing Support Suspension
= Any Stabilizers (Remember overstiffening your car's suspension will
equate to lousy driving)
* Tires
= Soft/Soft Racing Tires
* Others
= Weight Reduction All Stages (All stages of Weight Reduction MUST be
performed in order
= Racing Body Modification
Well, that's all I can say for now!!!
========================================================================
THE VIRTUE OF THE B-CLASS LICENSE
WARNING: All licenses _MUST_ be obtained from lowest to highest. You
must earn the B-Class License first, and then A-Class. You MUST have
the A-Class License with you before taking the IA-Class License Tests.
A B-Class License means that you've mastered the very basics of Gran
Turismo Racing, and that you're eligible to participate on the easiest
courses, if not, the even more grueling special events that restrict
the use of a car with a certain drivetrain, or even a racing event that
require you to use a featherweight car (no weight reductions allowed!).
Although you can only participate in only 5 races once you get a B-Class
license, you're on your way to earning more money and to polish up your
skills on the world of Gran Turismo. Holding a B-Class License, you
should be able to do the following according to Fukumoto Atsushi:
- Being able to Start and Stop a car
- Taking out corners as smooth as Rebecca Romijn's legs
- Being able to take out bloody S-Curves
- Avoiding any possible course-outs
And here are the races that you are now able to participate provided
that you have won the B-Class License:
* The GT League:
- Sunday Cup
* Special Events:
- Front-engine, Front Drive Car Championship
- Front-engine, Rear Drive Car Championship
- All Wheel Drive Car Championship
- Featherweight Car Championship
========================================================================
B-CLASS LICENSE TEST EXAMINATIONS
Index of tests:
B-1: Starting and Stopping using a Mazda Demio
B-2: Starting and Stopping using a Mitsubishi GTO Twinturbo
B-3: Cornering Deep Forest's first hairpin with a Honda Civic Del Sol
B-4: Cornering Deep Forest's first hairpin with a Nissan Silvia
B-5: Cornering Deep Forest's first hairpin with a Mitsubishi GTO
B-6: Handling the Ess at High Speed Ring with a Mitsubishi FTO
B-7: Handling the Ess at High Speed Ring with a Nissan Silvia
B-8: Attack the High Speed Ring (Final Examination)
Note: In order to take B-8, you must pass the first seven tests first.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
B-1: STARTING AND STOPPING PART 1
Test Car: Mazda Demio
Time Limit: 36"000
Prerequsite: None
Parts of the Test's Areas: The first 1000 Meters of the Test Course.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Before you learn how to corner, you must learn how to start and stop a
car, right? Well, this is the first test that you should take. In
order to pass the test with the least possible time, I strongly
recommend that you use Manual Transmission. Since the Mazda Demio's
rather light, don't brake too early or you may fail the test. Don't
brake too late or you will touch beyond the finish line. As you brake,
try to keep the foot off the pedal and try downshifting so that you can
stop at the finish line without drama. To summarize (Sorry for the
repetitiveness, but it's necessary to do so if you want to get your
B-License in a jiffy), it's accelerate, brake, and come to a complete
stop at the Finish Line.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
B-2: STARTING AND STOPPING PART 2
Test Car: Mitsubishi GTO Twinturbo
Time Limit: 27"000
Prerequsite: None
Parts of the Test's Areas: The first 1000 Meters of the Test Course.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
You will have to accelerate, brake, and come to a complete stop at the
finish line just like the first test. This is a lot harder than Part 1
of the same test because the Mitsubishi GTO Twinturbo is much of a lard-
mobile. Again, use Manual Transmission. As you pass the 900 Mark, you
may have to allow 100M of error so that you can confiscate the amount
of fat the GTO has. Again, keep your foot off the gas while braking,
and downshift as you cut your speed to land at the finish line. I would
acclerate, and a *little* after the 900M sign dissipates at the top of
the screen, I would remove my foot from the gas while braking almost
simultaneously, and I would downshift to 1, giving some room for error.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
B-3: BASIC CORNERING, PART 1
Test Car: Honda Civic Del Sol
Time Limit: 30"000
Prerequsite: None
Parts of the Test's Areas: From Starting Line, into the first hairpin,
and just a little before the pre-forest straight ends at Deep Forest.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
You have to accelerate, corner the first hairpin at Deep Forest, and
make your way into the finish line. Course-out is grounds for immediate
failure of the test. IMHO this is the hardest of the B-Class Tests.
Don't brake too blatantly since the Honda Civic Del Sol is much of a
feathermobile. The ideal speed to take on the first hairpin at the Deep
Forest is an average of 65 mph. Try to keep the racing line as smooth
as you can. Cut the apex from out-and-in, stay low throughout the turn,
and fast-out after the turn. If all of your wheels touches the grass,
then you will fail the course. A good feel of the gas and the pedal
is required.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
B-4: BASIC CORNERING, PART 2
Test Car: Nissan Silvia
Time Limit: 26"000
Prerequsite: None
Parts of the Test's Areas: From Starting Line, into the first hairpin,
and just a little before the pre-forest straight ends at Deep Forest.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
You have to accelerate, corner the first hairpin at Deep Forest, and
make your way into the finish line. Course-out is grounds for immediate
failure of the test. This is a little bit more forgiving (to me) than
Test B-3 because the Silvia has more speed than the lame Del Sol.
Unless you can brake a little bit earlier from Turn 1, you'll be finding
yourself wandering around outside the course in no time. The key to
handling Turn 1 of Deep Forest using a Nissan Silvia (240SX) is to
approach, brake in a straight line, cut the apex (No courseouts, though),
and get out accelerating. Stay low, and try to rapid-tap during the turn
to maintain your speed.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
B-5: BASIC CORNERING, PART 3
Test Car: Mitsubishi GTO Twinturbo
Time Limit: 25"000
Prerequsite: None
Parts of the Test's Areas: From Starting Line, into the first hairpin,
and just a little before the pre-forest straight ends at Deep Forest.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
You have to accelerate, corner the first hairpin at Deep Forest, and
make your way into the finish line. Course-out is grounds for immediate
failure of the test. Face it. I hate this test because you're in the
wheel of a high-weight Mitsubishi GTO (3000 GT). You may need to allow
more time with this lardmobile in order to keep your speed under 67mph
(my experimentation's been limited) at Deep Forest's first turn. Cut
the apex, and don't accelerate until after the turn. Start the turn too
late and you'll course-out. Rapid-tapping throughout the turn helps
too, as long as you don't course-out while cutting.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
B-6: CORNERING HIGH SPEED RING'S ESS PART 1
Test Car: Mitsubishi FTO GP Version R
Time Limit: 27"000
Prerequisite: None
Parts of the Test's Areas: Turns 3 and 4 of the High Speed Ring.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
A really tough test because you're now asked to handle an Ess Curve for
the first time. Since the Mitsubishi FTO is a lightweight car, don't
slow down too much, and possibly take advantage of its weight and front
drivetrain. The Ideal speed to undertaking these turns is an average of
75 mph. I found Turn 4 to be deadlier than the third one at High Speed
Ring. Try to stay low on both of these turns, and stay centered as Turn
3 Terminates. It's important that you do not skid (instead, use rapid
tap of the gas to control the speed, and fast-out as Turn 4 terminates
provided that you're not going to course-out) on these turns and try to
use the FTO's weight and front-drive to your own advantage.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
B-7: CORNERING HIGH SPEED RING'S ESS PART 2
Test Car: Nissan Silvia (240SX)
Time Limit: 26"000
Prerequisite: None
Parts of the Test's Areas: Turns 3 and 4 of the High Speed Ring.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
A really tough test because now you're in the wheel of a Nissan Silvia
instead of an FTO, and you need to make sure that you are keeping up a
smooth racing line if you want to pass the test. The Ideal speed to
undertaking these turns is an average of 75 mph. I found Turn 4 to be
deadlier than the third one at High Speed Ring. Try to stay low on both
of these turns, and stay centered as Turn 3 Terminates. Don't overskid
or you'll slow down too much, and possibly fail the test.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
B-8: ATTACK HIGH SPEED RING (B-CLASS EXAMINATION)
Test Car: Mazda Eunos (MX-3 Miata)
Time Limit: 1'22"00
Prerequisite: Must complete the first seven B-Class License Tests
first.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
You have to complete the first seven B-Class License Tests before you
can attack the High Speed Ring. Hopefully you're familiar with some
cornering, and if you have too much trouble beating this track within
the time limit, no worries. I'm going to make sure that you keep a
smooth racing line at all costs now.
Turn 1
------
This turn can be taken at full speed but try to stay low as you can,
and don't slide (since you're in a rear-wheel drive car). Be careful
with the final stretch of the turn since it's rather sharp. While
staying low on this turn, make sure that you are not touching the grass.
Turn 2
------
Take this turn at no faster than 95 mph (slower if you think you're
going to course-out). Apex Cutting on Turn 2 is mandatory. The more
time you allow to prepare for a turn, the greater your chances of
staying low with this turn are. Start the turn from the outside, cut
the apex, and stay low throughout the turn, and fast-out, making sure
that you do not touch the grass at the right.
Turns 3 and 4
-------------
This ess should be taken at 75 mph with some apex-cutting, though I
prefer that you stay centered on these turns. Try to keep a smooth
line at Turns 3 and 4 since that's the area where you tend to do some
blatant sliding. You can stay low at Turn 3 but you have to make sure
that you're centered by the time you start Turn 4. While trying to
stay low, make sure that you are not coursing-out.
Turn 5
------
Use this turn to set up for Turn 6. Stay low on this turn and be
prepared to slow down before taking Turn 6.
Turn 6
------
Take this turn at under 95 mph, but no slower than 90 mph. Again, Apex
Cutting will help at Turn 6. Stay low for as much as you can and fast-
out as you exit this turn. Now cross the finish line and hope that you
were fast enough!
========================================================================
SUNDAY CUP
Number of Tracks: 3
Laps per Track: 2
Required Class License: B-Class
Restriction of Car Type: None
Tracks involved: Autumnring-Mini, High Speed Ring, Grand Valley East
Pole Position Bonus: 1500 Credits
Finish First in the Track Bonus: 3000 Credits
Series Winner Bonus: 15000 Credits
Car you get for winning the race: Mazda Demio A-Spec
Recommended Car: Honda Prelude VTEC (Beginner), Toyota MA70 Supra 3.0
Turbo Limited (Advanced)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Vestiroth's note: The Sunday Cup should be your very first stop right
after you get the B-Class License. However, your main concern would
have to be the first hairpin turns on the Autumn Ring-Mini and the Grand
Valley East Courses. In order to keep your car under control (and to
make sure that you win AT LEAST 2 out of 3 courses), I've came up with
these pet peeves (remember you have the freedom of choice when it comes
to choosing your first car, so this is just a suggestion):
1. When you start the game under plain vanilla, your first order of
operation would be to either get inside Toyota to purchase an MA70
Supra or a used Honda Prelude. Polish up your skills at any Spot
Race Track then once you got your skills polished, get your B-Class
License.
2. Once you won the B-Class License, then this is where your first
stand should take place. If you can get all gold on the B-Class
License Tests (which I never did), that's a good thing because
you get the Concept Car for showing that you DID have some real
driving simulator experience before Gran Turismo.
3. I'll base this strategy as if you were driving a MA70 Supra. You
should be able to win 2 out of 3 tracks with the MA70 Supra, and
probably all the way with the Honda Prelude. Remember to change
your tactics if you're not riding the MA70 Supra. However, in the
Grand Valley Speedway, I'm gonna assume that you are riding on a
Mitsubishi Eclipse or FTO. On the High Speed Ring, I'm gonna
use the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition.
4. When riding a rear-drive car, don't overyank the car to one
direction as taking on a hairpin too hot may get you into a spin
out, so make sure that you really ease up whenever taking on turns
like the hairpin at Autumn Ring Mini.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
AUTUMN RING-MINI
Although Autumn-Mini isn't that bad, you'll have to learn how to take on
the first two turns in order to place first on this track. The first
turn is where beginners and rear-drive cars tend to have the greatest
amount of trouble at. I'm gonna strike a good blend of handling and
speed without having to burn and melt the front wheels (or overspin the
rear wheels if you are on a rear-drive car) so you will finish this
course without excessive tire damage to your car.
Turn 1
------
Hoo boy. A hairpin. A bad way to start a race. Cut your speed ahead
of time (so you don't risk spinning the rear tires or get inside the
grass) and take the turn from the out and in. You shouldn't be going
any faster than ~30 mph on this killer hairpin. After this hairpin,
there's a straight, but don't let that straight fool you as you have
yet another hairpin to chew on.
Turn 2
------
You should be at the right side of the track by the time you are
*just* about to enter this turn. I would say that about ~50 mph to
~60 mph with some *controlled* skidding would allow you to pass this
turn without having to deal with the friggin' autumn grass. By the
time you reach Turn 3, you should have the car straightened up and
ready to skid without difficulties from then.
Turn 3
------
Skid this sharp terror from the outside and back into the inside. I
would say roughly ~60 mph with some *slight* skidding would be safe
on this turn. At turn 4, you'll need to be in complete control of
your car because I found Turn 4 much more dangerous than Turn 3 since
you have to deal with those darn chicanes as well. =P
Turn 4
------
Just as the turn starts, try to cut your speed to below 60 mph so you
can take on this turn without skidding, without spinning out, and
without having to mow the grass, which can cut your speed to nothing.
This is possibly a very dangerous turn because you're starting the
turn from a *slight* right slant which turns into a harsh right all
of a sudden. If you made through this turn all right, then you should
have no problem with the next 4 turns, which are deadly chicanes.
Turns 5-9
---------
Try to keep a smooth and straight racing line as much as you can
during the dual chicanes. You can cut the apex although you risk
mowing the grass this way. My estimates would be ~60 mph with some
controlled braking and steering, although my experimentation's been
limited here, since I don't own a MA70 Supra anymore as I'm writing
this FAQ. You shouldn't be going any faster than 70 mph here as
you may risk going inside the grass if you go too fast.
Turn 10
-------
Here it is!! The final stretch of the track. You will be carrying
a better deal of speed and control if you can start the turn from
the outside and lean into the inside. You should also try to slow
down ahead of time so you can skid throughout all of the turn without
error. You shouldn't be going any faster than about 77 mph with some
zest skidding so that you can avoid the grass at the left, assuring
that you get the car straightened in preparation of the next lap.
Be careful when taking on the first turn at the next lap because
you'll have to enter this turn at high speeds, so be prepared to cut
your speed to ~30 mph as you are about to take the first turn once
again (I'm saying this because I don't want you to spin out! OK?!).
------------------------------------------------------------------------
HIGH SPEED RING
The High Speed Ring represents a good opportunity to increase your habits
of racing the car in a smooth line. This is good because you're going
to be trasnferring all the skills you learn at the Sunday Cup to other
circuits that has this track involved. As a general rule, make sure
that you don't hit the grass or walls too often as you will suffer from
the damage. On this course, I'm gonna be using the Mitsubishi FTO
Limited Edition.
Turn 1
------
Take this turn at full speed. Be sure at the final stretch of the turn
that you *slightly* slow down so you don't have to worry about hitting
the wall at the right by the time the turn ends.
Turn 2
------
You may want to brake as late as possible so that you can skid here at
higher speeds. Be sure that you are taking this turn out-and-in, and
by the time you leave the turn, you should prepare for Turns 3 and 4
without much trouble. Have the car straightened.
Turns 3 and 4
-------------
You may have to do some *blatant* slow down here since these turns are
the most dangerous turns in the track. I would cut my speed to around
90 mph so I won't be touching the grass or hitting the wall. Try to
do some rapid gas tapping in this area. A feel of the gas is required
to ensure control of the Mitsubishi FTO at all costs.
Turn 5
------
Provided that you took Turns 3 and 4 without any blatant trouble, this
would be a good place to prepare for Turn 6. Stay to the right side
of the track, making sure that you *barely* miss the grass at the right
side of the track. When Turn 6 starts, you should try to slow down in
a straight line and start taking Turn 6 from the outside and into the
inside.
Turn 6
------
Provided that you have slowed down to ~120 mph, you can take this turn
without having to release the gas pedal. Make sure that you speed out
if necessary if you feel that you're going to get closer to the wall
at the right.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
GRAND VALLEY EAST
Grand Valley East is the hardest of the three courses in the Sunday Cup
because there's some tricky corners and weird passages to master, and
beginners will need some assistance to get away from this track without
much damage. Since you need to strike a good balance of speed and
handling on this track, I will assume that you are inside the wheel of
a B-Class Front-Drive Car.
Turn 1
------
Use this turn to prepare yourself for Turn 2, which is a hairpin. You
need to adjust the speed of your car depending on the weight so you
can pass the hairpin without touching the dirt or grass, both hazards
can melt down your front tires and cause frontal axle damage. It's
important that you take all turns without too much damage to the front
axle and the front tires.
Turn 2
------
You need to be going no faster than 50 mph, taking the turn from the
outside and into the inside, and you need to do some slight drifting
to avoid possible grass contact. Slow down as much as you can before
the hairpin and begin turning as soon as the turn starts. Sliding is
acceptable as long as you don't go too fast.
Turns 3 and 4
-------------
Turn 3 can be taken at full speed. Turn 4 is where you will need to
be doing some drifting. The key to taking on Turn 4 is to drift by
applying a tiny bit of brake, and floor to the metal with zest timing
without any blatant loss of speed. You should be able to regain control
of the car in an instant because the front wheels should allow you to
straighten up the car faster than rear-drive cars. The key to drifting
with a Front-Drive car is with respect to the front axle, as the front
axle and the front wheels does not like to be abused.
Turn 5
------
You should be going no faster than 70 mph and cutting the apex (barely
touching the right slant) in order to avoid any possible grass contact
at the left side of the screen. Brake just before the turn starts, and
as the turn starts, drift to the right, and floor the gas. Don't bother
straightening up your car until after the turn. Don't overaccelerate
because you will melt your front tires if you do.
Turn 6
------
The key here is to brake at the last minute, then take this turn by
using the out-and-in maneuver without touching the wall at the left
(causing extreme frontal tire melting and frontal axle damage) or
touching the grass at the right. Brake to 50 mph and when you cut
your speed to 50 mph, begin taking on this turn. You need to counter
bank the car in order to maximize speed, and make sure that you are
not poised to hit the wall near the tunnel before you counterbank
because contact with the tunnel wall before the tunnel may damage
your car's frontal axle and wear down your front tires.
Turns 7 and 8
-------------
The key here on taking on this turn is to make sure that you are not
doing any blatant slowing down and that you are drifting as little as
possible to reduce frontal tire melt and frontal axle damage. I would
say that 85 mph on both turns would be OK with some skidding, although
this may vary depending on your own personalized experience.
Turns 9 and 10
--------------
Use the out-and-in, brake to drift cornering style to take on Turn 9.
You shouldn't be going any faster than 73 mph on Turn 9 because it's
rather sharp. Don't bother to accelerate on this turn unless you are
confident enough that you won't be touching the grass at the left side
of the screen. Turn 10 can be taken at full speed provided that you
are turning ahead of time and that you have not touched the grass at
Turn 9.
========================================================================
FRONT-ENGINE, FRONT-DRIVE CAR CHAMPIONSHIP
Number of Tracks: 3
Laps per Track: 2
Required Class License: B-Class
Restriction of Car Type: Front-Engine, Front-Wheel Driven Cars Only.
Tracks involved: Deep Forest Backwards, Grand Valley East, Special Stage
Route 11
Pole Position Bonus: 1500 Credits
Finish First in the Track Bonus: 5000 Credits
Series Winner Bonus: 10000 Credits
Car you get for winning the race: Either a Honda CRX EF-8 SiR or a
Toyota Celica SSII (
http://www.psmonline.com)
Recommended Car: Mitsubishi FTO GP Version R, Mitsubishi Eclipse
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Vestiroth's note: The special events that you're eligible for is a lot
harder than the Sunday Cup because there's bound to be some smart foes
waiting for you from this point on. You will be facing computer cars
that tend to take sharp turns at in-your-face speeds, and you do need to
tune up your car as much as you can to dominate this course. Although
the B-Class Special Events are the hardest among all the B-Class Races,
there's seems to be a good pointer to ensure that you give yourself the
unfair advantage you need. Here's what to do:
1. Buy either a Mitsubishi Eclipse or a Mitsubishi FTO (The FTO should
be a B-Class car as described on the manual). Save either these two
on your Memory Card.
2. Now, I'm assuming that you *do* have either a Nissan Skyline or a
Toyota Supra in your garage. Use the leftover dough to tune up your
Nissan Skyline or Toyota Supra just right so you can retain your
competitive edge. Just keep on winning the Sunday Cup until you
have enough credits to tune up your Eclipse or FTO (because I'm
going to throw you inside some expensive tuning-up before going
inside the Front-Engine, Front-Drive Championships). BTW just sell
your Mazda Demios back to Mazda as you earn your credits.
3. You'll want the following for the Eclipse:
* Muffler and Air Filter
* Highest Stage Turbine Kit
* Racing Support Intercooler
* Sports Braking Kit and Brake Balance Controller
* Racing Support Suspension, and Hard Stabilizers for both Front
and Back
* Computer, Port Polishing, and Engine Balancing
* Soft Racing Tires on Front and Back
* Racing Gears, Triple Clutch, Carbon Driveshaft, Racing Flywheel
* All Three Stages of Weight Reduction and Racing Modification
4. This may be possible if you are driving an FTO:
* Muffler and Air Filter
* Highest Stage Natural Aspiration Tuneup
* Sports Braking Kit and Brake Balance Controller
* Racing Support Suspension, and Hard Stabilizers for both Front
and Back
* Computer, Port Polishing, and Engine Balancing
* Soft Racing Tires on Front and Back
* Racing Gears, Triple Clutch, Carbon Driveshaft, Racing Flywheel
* All Three Stages of Weight Reduction and Racing Modification
5. Test these cars by dominating the Sunday Cup, save your progress on
your Memory Card. You should be ready for the Front-Wheel Drive
Car Championships. This is the hardest B-Class Series of all.
6. I'm gonna assume that you're gonna use the Mitsubishi Eclipse in this
matter. Over 300 HP is what you may need to dominate this course.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
DEEP FOREST REVERSE
The key in this track is to make full use of your Front Wheel Drivetrain
without any blatant slowing down or without any unnecessary skidding
that can otherwise slow down your car. You need to take some turns at
higher speeds than what is written here, so make sure that you are at
least trying to keep a smooth racing line as much as possible. The
competition gets bloody here, so make sure that you don't overhit the
walls, overtouch the grass, or overslow your vehicle.
Turn 1
------
You can powerslide this sucker providing that you braked the car just
before the turn starts, and controlled the slide during the turn. If
you're not crazy about sliding, then you may want to slow down to 95
mph just before the turn starts.
Turns 2 and 3
-------------
Turn 2 can be taken at full speed. However, you will need to slow down
at a straight line when you are about to undertake Turn 3. I would say
85 mph with some sliding would be reasonable enough to avoid hitting
the wall at the left.
Turns 4 and 5
-------------
These turns are as close as you'll find with a straightaway, so make
sure that you are keeping a straight racing line to ensure that your
car is running straight and smooth so you can slow down by the time
you see some sections of Turn 6.
Turn 6
------
When you see some sections of the turn, you should cut your speed
according to the weight of your car. Keep in mind that heavier cars
tend to take longer to slow down, so you will need to keep that in
mind. Cut your speed to 110 mph before the turn starts, and when
Turn 6 begins, release the gas pedal, brake, and rapid-tap the gas.
I would say that you're going to end up going 80 mph sliding for the
most part.
Turns 7 and 8
-------------
The key to undertaking these turns is to keep a smooth racing line
without any blatant slowdown. You should try to speed out if you
risk going inside the grass, but you should never try to get into a
blatant slide here. When you are inside the tunnel, you should be
at a smooth racing line so that you can slow down in preparation for
turns 9 and 10.
Turns 9 and 10
--------------
Slow down to 60 mph when you are inside the tunnel. You should be
below 60 mph by the time Turn 9 begins. You can skid throughout this
turn, but it's rather dangerous because if you land on the grass, then
you'll accidentially spin the rear wheels (causing a possible spinout).
You will need to be running in a straight line by the time you get
inside the tunnel that signals Turn 10. Again, cut your speed (but
don't slow down too much) while inside the tunnel, and as the tunnel
ends, begin to skid. Try to use the out-and-in technique and make
sure that you are not going inside the grass.
Turns 11-13
-----------
A smooth racing line will help you set up for the final hairpin at the
final stretch of the track. Just make sure that you are not undergoing
a blatant skid or any grass mowing during these three turns.
Turn 14
-------
Go to the leftmost lane and cut your speed to about 60 mph. When the
turn starts, lean to the inside of the track, and forget about using
the gas in full until you can get out of the haripin without error.
The key to undertaking this hairpin is with *zest* speed control.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
GRAND VALLEY EAST
You should be familiar with this track from the Sunday Cup. However,
the computer tends to drive more smoothly than they did in the Sunday
Cup, so it's important that you do not slow down blatantly in order to
keep up with the competition and that you take on the corners without
burning up the front tires and to finish this track without much damage.
Some of the turns which you may have to be ludicrous includes the final
stretch of the track and the turns just before the kaye left.
Turn 1
------
Use this turn to prepare yourself for Turn 2, which is a hairpin. You
need to adjust the speed of your car depending on the weight so you
can pass the hairpin without touching the dirt or grass, both hazards
can melt down your front tires and cause frontal axle damage. It's
important that you take all turns without too much damage to the front
axle and the front tires.
Turn 2
------
You need to be going no faster than 50 mph, taking the turn from the
outside and into the inside, and you need to do some slight drifting
to avoid possible grass contact. Slow down as much as you can before
the hairpin and begin turning as soon as the turn starts. Sliding is
acceptable as long as you don't go too fast.
Turns 3 and 4
-------------
Turn 3 can be taken at full speed. Turn 4 is where you will need to
be doing some drifting. The key to taking on Turn 4 is to drift by
applying a tiny bit of brake, and floor to the metal with zest timing
without any blatant loss of speed. You should be able to regain control
of the car in an instant because the front wheels should allow you to
straighten up the car faster than rear-drive cars. The key to drifting
with a Front-Drive car is with respect to the front axle, as the front
axle and the front wheels does not like to be abused.
Turn 5
------
You should be going no faster than 70 mph and cutting the apex (barely
touching the right slant) in order to avoid any possible grass contact
at the left side of the screen. Brake just before the turn starts, and
as the turn starts, drift to the right, and floor the gas. Don't bother
straightening up your car until after the turn. Don't overaccelerate
because you will melt your front tires if you do.
Turn 6
------
The key here is to brake at the last minute, then take this turn by
using the out-and-in maneuver without touching the wall at the left
(causing extreme frontal tire melting and frontal axle damage) or
touching the grass at the right. Brake to 50 mph and when you cut
your speed to 50 mph, begin taking on this turn. You need to counter
bank the car in order to maximize speed, and make sure that you are
not poised to hit the wall near the tunnel before you counterbank
because contact with the tunnel wall before the tunnel may damage
your car's frontal axle and wear down your front tires.
Turns 7 and 8
-------------
The key here on taking on this turn is to make sure that you are not
doing any blatant slowing down and that you are drifting as little as
possible to reduce frontal tire melt and frontal axle damage. I would
say that 85 mph on both turns would be OK with some skidding, although
this may vary depending on your own personalized experience.
Turns 9 and 10
--------------
Use the out-and-in, brake to drift cornering style to take on Turn 9.
You shouldn't be going any faster than 73 mph on Turn 9 because it's
rather sharp. Don't bother to accelerate on this turn unless you are
confident enough that you won't be touching the grass at the left side
of the screen. Turn 10 can be taken at full speed provided that you
are turning ahead of time and that you have not touched the grass at
Turn 9.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 11
If there was a good reason why only Front-Engine, Front-Drive cars are
allowed in this race, then this could be it. Lots of blind turns, weird
corridors, and bizarre passages makes this track something to worry about
in the B-Class races. In order to corner efficiently, you will need to
brake as late as you can so you can take on the corner with some sliding
and right after you finish the slide, you can counterbank the car with
ease. You may end up losing to your foes your first couple of times in
this track because this track tests your ability to be a competent
driver rather than on speed.
Turn 1
------
This turn can be taken at full speed. Just don't get so greedy in the
turn that you forget turning in the second turn.
Turn 2
------
Slow down from the outside. Then as the turn begins, slide throughout
most of the turn (although you may have to hit the wall, it takes
practice to avoid the wall in this course since Special Stage Route 11
is laden with sharps). To ensure a well-timed slide, brake as late as
possible *hard*, then turn and counterbank. Timing must be perfect in
order to drift this turn efficiently.
Turns 3 and 4
-------------
It may be *necessary* (but shouldn't be that bad) to slow down, but
if you need to slow down for any reason, here's what to do: Take
Turn 3 at full speed and immediately release the gas pedal, then
press the gas pedal once again. You should miss out the gas cans
just before Turn 5. If you hit the gas canisters, then no big deal.
You need not worry about overspinning the rear tires as opposed to
the rear-drive cars (though you will lose speed and risk having the
competition catch up with you). Cutting the apex is ok, but it may
be a risk for beginners (because you may get into an embarrasing
speed loss if you hit a wall).
Turns 5 and 6
-------------
You'll need to be braking at the last minute, begin turning (or
sliding if you feel adventurous), and going no more than around 50
mph (IMHO) in order to avoid any possible wall hit. Just a little
before Turn 6, be careful not to stay on the left because the slant
may drag your car at the right side of the track and may cause some
blatant speed loss if you don't move away from the left in time so be
sure that you swerve right to preserve your front axle and tires (and
to prepare for Turn 6). By the time you are about to undertake Turn
6, you should be sliding (if you want to) and just before Turn 7, you
should have the car straightened up. Don't accelerate while you are
taking on these twin sharps.
Turn 7
------
You need to brake as late as you can (but not too late because then
you risk melting the front tires), sliding, and undertaking this
hairpin at speeds less than 40 mph. In order to maintain a good
amount of speed, do not feed in too much gas during this turn. This
turn demands that you have a good feel of the brakes and the gas. If
not, then be prepared to get punished by the competition. Try not to
get into a sloppy slide as you lose speed if you happen to slide too
long.
Turns 8 and 9
-------------
Turn 8 can be taken at full speed. Turn 9 is a sharp left so it's
important that you brake as the turn begins, then start sliding, and
</pre><pre id="faqspan-2">
counterbank so you don't burn up the front axle. When taking on Turn
9, brake just before the turn begins, and when the turn starts (and by
the time you drift), you should be able to bring in some control into
your car, but don't overuse the gas while drifting because you risk
burning up the front tires and breaking up the front axle.
Turns 10-13
-----------
I hope you hate this one. You may want to cut your speed to around 80
mph so you don't end up hitting the wall, which may overspin your
tires if you keep the foot on the Gas Pedal. Try to make sure you're
turning ahead of time and never get into a lousy skid as you may cause
blatant tire melting at the front wheels and perhaps disable the front
axle in no time.
Turns 14 and 15
---------------
These turns can be taken at full speed, but you need to use Turn 15
and the *slight* straightaway in order to prepare for Turns 16 and 17,
which comes in *just about* immediately, so you will need the car
straightened up in preparation for speed reduction for the next chicane.
Turns 16 and 17
---------------
Brake just before the turn begins, and as the turn begins, try to cut
the apex (but don't hit the wall since you will be melting the front
tires and breaking the front axle of your car). You should be drifting
and you can force your car to drift to the left in Turn 17 immediately
after Turn 16 with zest timing (and if you are good enough). Scrapping
the walls (or frontal contact) may cause a blatant loss in speed,
causing severe front tire wear and front axle malfunction.
Turn 18
-------
There is no need to brake here (since you've been slowing down at the
chicane), but you'll need to have a good feel of the gas and the brakes
in order to take on this turn without hitting any walls. Cutting the
apex is acceptable as long as you don't overdo it. The key to taking
on this turn is to drift without having to use the brake, since you may
lose speed due to extreme tire melting and front-axle breaking.
Turn 19
-------
There's some easy slants just before this painful hairpin. You may
wish to do the "Cheating Bastard" maneuver by leaning at the outside of
the track and then with zest timing lean to the right *just right* and
pedal to the metal. You must time your wheel yanks correctly in order
to cheat on this hairpin. However, you risk having to wear out your
front tires and damage your front wheel axle, so an alternative to the
Cheating Bastard maneuver (BTW it's Jaz Rignall of PSM Online who came
up with the idea of the Cheating Bastard), brake at the last minute
before the hairpin starts, and as the haripin begins, yank the wheel
to the right, release the gas pedal, and brake *hard* at the same time.
You should be able to avoid the wall at the left. You shouldn't be
going any faster than 45 mph here. Start the slide too early and you
will be hitting the right wall, possibly causing frontal tire melting
and frontal axle damage.
Turns 20 and 21
---------------
I would treat these two sharps as one turn. Time your drift so that
you just *hit* the right wall and that you can have room to straighten
up your car by the time Turn 22 (hairpin) begins. A bad drift or a
sloppy undertake would result in the competition catching up with you.
Turn 22
-------
Here, the Cheating Bastard maneuver works here, but it's easier to do
the Cheating Bastard maneuver in this hairpin than in Turn 19 because
you don't have to contend with some slants before the hairpin. This
applies to the first hairpin just before the tunnel. As the right
hairpin starts, go way outside, and with zest timing, turn right just
right, and pedal to the metal. Becoming a cheating bastard takes time
because you need the right timing in order to take on the hairpin at
dangerous speeds (Once again, Jaz Rignall of
http://www.psmonline.com).
Turns 23 and 24
---------------
The easiest way to screw up on this turn would be to brake too late
so that your front axle gets damaged and your front tires melts up.
The best time to slow down to about 40 mph would be when you see some
sections of Turn 23. Stay at the left side of the track and brake to
40 mph. When the turn begins, you need a good feel of the gas and the
steering wheel so you would avoid hitting the walls on these two turns.
You may face a spinout if you hit the wall. The key here is to keep a
straight racing line while taking on this tight chicane without any
drifting (as you burn up your Front Tires and damage your front axle
this way).
Turn 25
-------
Keep your speed to around 100 mph at this final turn. Speed out from
the turn if you are going to get closer to the left wall. A good feel
of the gas and the pedal is required here.
========================================================================
FRONT-ENGINE, REAR WHEEL DRIVE CAR CHAMPIONSHIP
Number of Tracks: 3
Laps per Track: 2
Required Class License: B-Class
Restriction of Car Type: Front-Engine, Rear Wheel Drive Cars only, no
Acura NSXs or Toyota MR2s allowed.
Tracks involved: Grand Valley East Reverse, Deep Forest, Grand Valley
Speedway Reverse (Mousse Lee at
[email protected])
Pole Position Bonus: 1500 Credits
Finish First in the Track Bonus: 5000 Credits
Series Winner Bonus: 10000 Credits
Car you get for winning the race: You get the Nissan Qs 1800 or a Nissan
Sil 80 for winning the championship (
http://www.psmonline.com)
Recommended Cars: TVR Cerbera Limited Edition, Dodge Viper GTS-R, Dodge
Viper GTS, Toyota Castrol Supra GT
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Vestiroth's note: IMHO Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive Car Championships
will be too impossible to complete at the beginning of the game so I
strongly recommend that you stay away from this series until you either
get your IA-Class License or right after you get your TVR Cerbera
Limited Edition. You will be facing a powerful Toyota Supra RZ in this
track, and the truth about the series' difficulty is that none of the
cars will let you pass! Anyway, after you get a power car, these cars
are nothing. Here's what you have to do before you get inside this
series:
1. Get your A-Class License. You really need to learn the aesthetics
of A-Class-Style driving before you even go any further. Some races
are much harder than it seems.
2. Beat the Clubman Cup 10 times, buy the Subaru Impreza Rally Edition
racing car, save the car on your Memory Card, and beat the Gran
Turismo Cup 10 times. Be sure that you give your PlayStation a
rest for 30 minutes for every 2 hours of consecutive gameplay. And
make sure as you beat the Clubman Cup 10 times, sell those lemoney
Chevy Camaro 30th Anniversary cars back to Chevrolet.
3. After beating the Gran Turismo Cup 10 times (making sure that you're
selling those lemoney Toyota Chaser Limited Edition cars back to
Toyota), buy a new Mitsubishi GTO Twin Turbo, and load up your GTO
Twin Turbo with the following parts:
* Muffler and Air Filter
* Stage 4 Turbine Kit
* Racing Support Intercooler
* Sports Braking Kit and Brake Balance Controller
* Racing Support Suspension, and Hard Stabilizers for both Front
and Back
* Computer, Port Polishing, and Engine Balancing
* Soft Racing Tires on Front and Back
* Racing Gears, Triple Clutch, Carbon Driveshaft, Racing Flywheel
* All Three Stages of Weight Reduction and Racing Modification
4. Save your GTO on your Memory Card, and practice your GTO skills at
the Megaspeed Cup Championships. Win the Megaspeed Cup Championship
10 times, (making sure you sell any lemons back to its original
dealer), save, and then use the GTO to blow the competition away at
the Japanese and American Car Championships.
5. After winning the Japanese and American Car Championship for the
first time, buy a Nissan Skyline, and boost it up heavily so that
it goes up to 941 hp and that you make the Skyline a racing car.
Use the Skyline to get the Dodge Viper GTS-R for your second win
(You get a Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition for winning the series
the first time).
6. If you want, then you can go on to participate in this race with
the Dodge Viper GTS-R. But if you want to dominate the series
with Pole Positioning and first place all the way, then I strongly
recommend to go on. Save the Dodge Viper GTS-R and the Mitsubishi
FTO Limited Edition on your Memory Card, rest your PlayStation,
throw in your Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition into the Japanese and
British Car Championships, win this series two consecutive times,
sell the Honda Civic Del Sol Limited Edition back to Honda and save
the TVR Cerbera Limited Edition on your Memory Card.
7. Rest your PlayStation, and pit the TVR Cerbera Limited Edition to
melt the competition away!
8. This guide will assume that you are in the wheel of the TVR Cerbera
Limited Edition.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
GRAND VALLEY EAST REVERSE
Front-Engine, Rear Drive Cars seems to have the upper hand in this track
but unless you learn how to tame your FR car, then you will be spinning
out pretty often. Make sure that you treat your FR car with lots of
respect by slowing down on turns ahead of time. Always take it easy when
trying to cut the apex or you may be risking having the competition win
this track.
Turns 1 and 2
-------------
The key to taking these two turns is to control your speed without any
blatant slowdown or wheelspin. A reasonable speed here would be 100
mph (my experimentation here is rather limited, so bear with me) with
some skidding, but you will need to have the car straightened up just
before you take on Turn 3.
Turn 3
------
This turn is pretty damn sharp, so it's important that you slow down
to about 80 mph just before the turn starts so you can cut the apex
of the turn. You may want to experiment with some sliding here, but
you need to adjust this strategy depending on your experience.
Turns 4 and 5
-------------
No blatant slowing down allowed. Try to maintain high speed without
wheelspin or blatant skidding. The key here would be to start these
turns as early as you can so you maintain your out-and-in routine.
Turn 6
------
Turn 6 is where beginners tend to bite the dust. Cut your speed to
*below* 50 mph just before the Tunnel terminates. When the turn
begins, you should try to cut the apex as much as you can, but don't
hit the wall at the right or you may overspin the rear tires.
Sliding's acceptable as long as you don't overdo it.
Turn 7
------
The key to taking this turn would be to cut the apex without using
the brakes too much and with a good feel of the gas pedal. Stay
inside of the track for as much as you can, making sure that your
wheels are touching the slant, *barely* missing the grass.
Turns 8 and 9
-------------
Keep a smooth racing line at all times. You can go full speed at
Turn 8, but you may have to do some skidding (be sure to turn before
the turn starts) on Turn 9. Here, the key is to maintain a high
speed without any speed loss and without too much skidding. A good
feel of the gas pedal, brake, and wheel will allow you to smoothen
up your racing line for speed in this area.
Turn 10
-------
Cut your speed to 60 mph just before the turn begins. Brake at a
straight line for control, and begin turning when you are comfy
enough. Don't overdo your drift as you may overspin your rear
wheels. The key here is to drift to the inside of this turn without
any wheelspin. You may have to speed out during this turn whenever
appropriate for your safety.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
DEEP FOREST
I think Deep Forest is horrible for the following reason: GRASS AND
EVEN MORE GRASS EVERYWHERE!!!!!!!! It's important that you don't wind
up going in the grass as you will lose speed while taking a turn, so
make sure that you do your very best to avoid the grass at all costs.
Turn 1
------
Hairpin Starts aren't my idea of a start of the race. Cut your speed
during the two hairpin signs and if you don't want to skid, don't go any
faster than 60 mph, but if you want to skid, then you may want to say
about 70 mph, although my experimentation is rather limited.
Turns 2&3
---------
Keep you car under control, and definitely stay off the grass at the
left and right side of the screen because that's when your worries
begin. Turn 3 is more sarcastic than Turn 2, so you may have to slow
down at either Turn 2 or 3 to keep your car under control. However,
you will have to worry about Turn 4 because Turn 4 is a rather *sharp*
left that you have to chew on, and you got a killer tunnel coming up
just before Turn 5.
Turn 4
------
Cut your speed *immediately* after you exit Turn 3, but don't slant
the wheels to the left because you'll hit the wall and touch the grass
so make sure that you're slanting the front wheels to the right as you
prepare for this turn. You need to be going no faster than 65 mph and
you should try to drift as much as you can in order to avoid any grass
contact and possibly a hit right at the tunnel entrance wall, which
causes serious delays.
Turn 5
------
You should be ready to drift from this corner as soon as you are about
to exit the tunnel. Cut your speed *as you leave the tunnel* and drift
on this turn. I would say that 72 mph would be reasonable but you can
take this turn at higher speeds, although I don't recommend taking this
turn too hot.
Turn 6 & 7
----------
You will have yet another sharp to deal with so don't go overconfident
with the easy right. Try to slow down as early as just before the
easy right so you'll have control by the time you hit the sharp left.
You shouldn't be going any faster than roughly 50 mph by the time you
hit Turn 7. Be careful that you don't go inside the grass. By the
time you enter the interlude before Turn 8, you should have the car
straightened up.
Turn 8
------
Although this turn can be taken at full speed, I strongly recommend
that you take this turn with some *controlled* braking and steering,
just a precaution that you don't hit the wall at the right. If you
done the drifting and braking right, then you should be able to avoid
the wall at the right.
Turns 9-11
----------
This part of the track is as close as a straightaway you'll find in
this track, so use this part of the track wisely. Make sure that you
are turning *slightly* during the easy turns, making sure that you are
not hitting the walls. Turn 11 is where you should be doing the worry
abouties because you're going to face a fierce left right after the
easy right, so be sure that you're slowing down as you are about to
finish the easy right but not too early that you're losing control of
the car.
Turn 12
-------
If you have done a *controlled* slowing down as early as the conclusion
of Turn 11, then you should begin to do even more braking. You should
be drifting a little as you undertake this turn. I would say that 80
mph would be a good speed, but you need to be drifting so you can avoid
the grass at the right. Please don't accelerate until you finish taking
on this turn. If you slow down too late, then you're bound to hit walls
and mow some grass!
Turn 13
-------
Take this turn at full speed, trying to avoid the grass. By the time
you finish this turn, you don't have to worry about the grass at the
left and right side of the track anymore. JOY!
Turn 14
-------
Cut your speed to ~120 mph and I would take this turn by out-and-in, and
with heavy skidding. When you get inside of the straightaway, you need
to have the car straightened. Gotta be careful when drifting because
poor timing of taking this final turn will result in either unnecessary
dipping or grass contact, which ruins your performance greatly. I'm
trying to make sure that you're staying competitive here.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
GRAND VALLEY SPEEDWAY REVERSE
You will be facing lots of weird and unfamiliar turns in Grand Valley
Speedway Reverse and you will be facing an array of bizarre passages
that may cause blatant rear tire spin, and you do need to be a careful
driver (or in my case, holding an A-Class License for the least) in
order to get away from this track without too much damage.
Turns 1 and 2
-------------
The key to taking these two turns is to control your speed without any
blatant slowdown or wheelspin. A reasonable speed here would be 100
mph (my experimentation here is rather limited, so bear with me) with
some skidding, and after Turn 2 ends, you can go full speed for now
but you'll have to be aware that Turns 3 and 4 will be coming up.
Turns 3 and 4
-------------
No matter what kind of Gran Turismo Player you consider yourself, this
is something to worry about in Grand Valley Speedway. Cut your speed
to ~68 mph *as* you enter the first turn. Drift throughout the first
turn using out-and-in. You should not be going over ~50 mph on average
during the first turn, although I'm saying ~69 mph (you lose speed as
you slide). On Turn 14, cut your speed to around ~48 mph, take the turn
from the out-and-in, and refrain from accelerating until after you
complete this turn. You should be at around ~40 mph by the time your
at the final stretch (You tend to lose lots of speed here, so don't go
too fast as these turns are hairpins in nature). It's really important
that you do not brake while steering the wheel as you tend to make your
car unstable and harder to control. Brake at a straight line no matter
what hairpin you undertake. Turn 3 is the worst of the two because you
are entering this sharp left from a high speed.
Turn 5
------
You shouldn't have to worry about slowing down too blatantly since you
just recovered from the two hairpins. Please do some *controlled* rapid
gas tapping as the turn keeps "going and going" and refrain from
accelerating until the turn ends. Failure to do this will result in
rail contact at the left, which may overspin your rear tires. You
should be lined up at the middle throughout the turn BTW.
Turn 6
------
At Turn 16, brake to about 90 mph, and start skidding as the turn begins
so that you don't hit any uneven passages that may cause blatant spinning
of the rear tires and a possible spinout. The key to taking this turn
would be to slide throughout this turn without any contact with the wall
or with the least amount of errors.
Turn 7
------
Slide throughout nearly all of this lamer, making sure that you are not
going any faster than 70 mph. You should make sure that you are turning
ahead of time, cutting the apex, leaning the wheels near the slant, and
making sure that you are not accelerating until after the turn.
Turn 8
------
Turn 8 is where beginners tend to bite the dust. Cut your speed to
*below* 50 mph just before the Tunnel terminates. When the turn
begins, you should try to cut the apex as much as you can, but don't
hit the wall at the right or you may overspin the rear tires.
Sliding's acceptable as long as you don't overdo it.
Turn 9
------
The key to taking this turn would be to cut the apex without using
the brakes too much and with a good feel of the gas pedal. Stay
inside of the track for as much as you can, making sure that your
wheels are touching the slant, *barely* missing the grass.
Turn 10
-------
I would slide this lamer and start sliding from the outside of the
turn and work my way to the inside, making sure that my wheels are
*next* to the slant, but not touching it. I should be staying near
the rightmost side of the track for enhanced degree of control because
I will need every drop of control by the time I enter Turn 11, which is
a deadly hairpin.
Turn 11
-------
Ancient words of wisdom: Slow down ahead of time for control. By the
start of the hairpin, your speed shouldn't be exceeding 42 mph. Take
the hairpin from the outside and slowly move to the inside, but don't
touch the slant as you'll take an unwanted dip right there. By the
time you take on the rather easy ess-curve, you should have regained
control of the car. Since you have a long straight, you should try to
brake to 42 mph on this hairpin before all is lost (meaning that you
braked too late).
Turns 12-14
-----------
Although this Ess can be taken at full speed, be aware that you'll
need to probably be sliding on Turns 13 and 14 in order to avoid any
unwanted dipping and contact with the racing slant at the left or
right side of the track. If you did not turn ahead of time at Turns
13 and 14, then you're bound to touch some grass, and eventually wind
up spinning out of control. The key in this ess would be to treat
your car with lots of respect by easing out on every turn and by
turning ahead of time to avoid any sliding, which throws you off
control anyway.
Turns 15 and 16
---------------
Cut your speed to around 60 mph as the hairpin begins. Be sure you give
room to brake because late braking may result in a spinout. Cut the
apex from the outside. By the time you take Turn 16 in, then you should
have regained control of the car.
========================================================================
ALL-WHEEL DRIVE CAR CHAMPIONSHIP
Number of Tracks: 3
Laps per Track: 2
Required Class License: B-Class
Restriction of Car Type: Only cars with All-Wheel Drive are allowed.
Go for a Nissan Skyline, Toyota Celica GT-Four, Mitsubishi GTO Twin
Turbo, or any All-Wheel Drive car that is class A. Don't settle for
anything less than a Class A AWD car.
Tracks involved: Trial Mountain Reverse, Grand Valley Speedway,
Special Stage Route 5 Reverse (Mousse Lee at
[email protected])
Pole Position Bonus: 1500 Credits
Finish First in the Track Bonus: 5000 Credits
Series Winner Bonus: 10000 Credits
Car you get for winning the race: You get either a Subaru SVX S4 or a
Mitsubishi Lancer GSR Evolution IV for winning the series (Jaz Rignall
for
http://www.psmonline.com)
Recommended Cars: Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition, Any Subaru Impreza
race-tuned to perfection, Any AWD Nissan Skyline. However, this gets
boring everytime you blast the competition away with Racing and/or
high-powered cars. If you are good enough, then why not buy a Toyota
Celica GT-Four instead?
------------------------------------------------------------------------
While this series is a pest, if you have a Nissan Skyline GTS-R, then
you should have no problem with this series. If you don't have a Nissan
Skyline GTS-R, and you have not been modifying your car since you get the
Skyline, you will have a hard time in this series. Keep these things in
mind:
1. Get your A-Class License now. Since you need more advanced driving
skills and stronger cars, now it is the time to get your A License
like it or not. I know the A-Class License tests are a lot harder
than the B-Class License tests, but I want you to do so because
this involves some expensive steps in order to make these sissies
understand that resistance to your superiority is futile.
2. Once you get your A-Class License by demonstrating your Toyota Supra
proficiency at Grand Valley by taking on two hairpins from the
Grand Valley Speedway using a rather hard-to-control Toyota Supra
RZ, be sure you have a Mitsubishi Eclipse or FTO GP-R all over
tuned, Castrol enhanced (Racing Mod Time!), and thrown into the
Clubman Cup. With these cars pretty much near 400 HP you should
have no problem placing first on all three tracks. If you can
pole position and place first on all three tracks, then you
should have earned 48,500 credits, which is a lot. Sell the lame
Chevy Camaro Z28 30th Anniversary back to Chevrolet.
3. Win the Clubman Cup 10-12 times, and you should have between
600,000 to 700,000 credits, which should be enough to return to
Mitsubishi for the GTO Limited Edition, which is on sale for
500,000 credits. Remember the majority of the LMs you get from
winning certain series are many times better than those that sell
for 500,000 credits, i.e. the Mitsubishi FTO LM.
4. For these strats, I'm going to use my personal favorite in all of
Gran Turismo, the Mitsubishi FTO LM.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
TRIAL MOUNTAIN REVERSE
With the Mitsubishi FTO in your possesion, you should be able to take
on Trial Mountain Reverse without any problems (as opposed to the GTO
Twin Turbo undergoing lots of mods and Castrol Stickers). You still
need to utilize all of your driving potential here in order to fry the
competition to a crisp, though (but I doubt that you'll lose because
you're inside a racing car, so get ready to snap, crackle, and pop!).
Turns 1 and 2
-------------
The key to success in these turns is to cut the apex as much as possible
without touching the slant and without any blatant slowdown. I would
say that 100 mph (approx) would be safe, although higher speeds may be
possible, depending on your expertise and racing prowess.
Turn 3
------
Cut your speed to around 70 mph and take this turn from the outside to
the inside. Try not to touch the slant at the right side of the track
since this makes your car unstable. You should have the car back in
straight condition when you take on Turn 4.
Turn 4
------
Do the same thing as with Turn 3, but this time around, stay off the
slant at the left side of the track, since your car may "bounce" up
and down (causing you to lose control). Sliding's acceptable, as
long as you don't turn too sloppy on this turn.
Turns 5 and 6
-------------
Try to keep a smooth racing line as much as you can to maximize speed
and make sure that you stay off the walls (since they may be a problem
to most of you). Gently turn ahead of time as each turn starts and
by the time you finish Turn 6, you should have the car in straight
standing to prepare yourself for Turn 7.
Turn 7
------
You will be able to get inside the rightmost side of the track if you
can slow down ahead of time. I would say that around 80 mph would be
safe. Make sure that you do not accelerate until after the turn.
Turn 8
------
Since I'm inside an All Wheel Drive car, I would brake while I'm inside
the tunnel, and begin turning as the tunnel ends. As with all turns,
do not accelerate until after you're confident enough that you're not
gonna be hitting any slants as you enter another tunnel. I would say
that 100 mph would be safe for this turn.
Turn 9
------
The key to undertaking this turn is to skid here without any blatant
loss of speed. I would say that just *a little* under 90 mph would be
fine to avoid hitting any wall or touching any grass, although you need
to adjust this based upon your expertise.
Turns 10 and 11
---------------
Ease up on these turns as much as you can. By the time you finish up
taking on Turn 11, you need to have your car in a straight line in order
to slow down at Turn 12, which is a deadly hairpin.
Turn 12
-------
You will carry more control if you cut your speed in a straight line,
making sure that you are not over 50 mph as you take on this turn, and
you cut the apex (while avoiding the walls, grass, and slants). Do not
accelerate until after the turn. Please be aware that Turn 13 follows
this turn almost immediately.
Turn 13
-------
You need to start drifting just before the dip. Yank the car to the
right *just right* in order to avoid hitting the slant or going off
the track. By the time you finish this turn, you should have the car
straightened and regained control of your vehicle.
Turn 14
-------
Start turning ahead of time, and move from the left side of the track
to the right side of the track. You should be careful not to hit the
slant at the right side of the track as you may take an unnecessary
dip. You will need as much control as you can when you reach Turns
15 and 16, so negotiate this turn with zest, and don't go too fast.
Turns 15 and 16
---------------
The key to success on these turns is to cut the apex of each of these
turns without any contact with the slants, and by going around 120 mph
during both of these turns. When the left turn starts, yank the wheel
gently, and when the right turn starts, you may need to apply some
braking and drift during the final turn. By the time you're ready to
cross the finish line, you should be back in control.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
GRAND VALLEY SPEEDWAY
It's a good reason to know why you're restricted to the use of All Wheel
Drive cars on this series: Grand Valley Speedway is one of the harder
courses, with two hairpin entrances at high speeds, weird corridors, and
a hoarse chicane. Beginners will need to depend on a Subaru Impreza
Limited Edition, a Mitsubishi GTO Limited Edition, or an FTO Limited
Edition in order to learn this track without sustaining too much
damange.
Turn 1
------
Being dizzy right after starting will make you uncomfortable on the
second turn, which is a hairpin. You'll want to cut your speed as soon
as you finish up taking on the gentle left so that you'll have your
speed *reasonably* reduced by the time you take on the first hairpin
turn in the track.
Turn 2
------
If you were able to cut your speed (I recommend releasing the gas pedal
and by the time you hit the *slight* straight brake to ~60 mph and do
some sliding) as you were taking on the first turn in preparation of
this hairpin, then great. If not, then be prepared to either touch
the dirt or deal with a spinout! It's important that you cut your
speed (if you're going over 120 mph at the start of Turn 1) as early
as Turn 1, and start reacting by the time you reach Turn 2 so you can
allow some room for error by the time you reach the next straight, a
gateway to a rather gruesome S-curve coming up.
Turns 3-5
---------
Although this Ess can be taken at full speed, be aware that you'll
need to probably be sliding on Turn 5 in order to avoid any unwanted
dipping and contact with the racing slant at the left or right side
of the track. If you did not turn ahead of time at Turn 5, then
you're bound to touch some grass, and eventually wind up spinning out
of control. You'll need to be in good shape when you take on Turn 6,
which is a really bad hairpin.
Turn 6
------
Ancient words of wisdom: Slow down ahead of time for control. By the
start of the hairpin, your speed shouldn't be exceeding 42 mph. Take
the hairpin from the outside and slowly move to the inside, but don't
touch the slant as you'll take an unwanted dip right there. Don't let
the next straight fool you as you'll have to take on a rather *sharp*
left.
Turn 7
------
I would slide this lamer and start sliding from the outside of the
turn and work my way to the inside, making sure that my wheels are
*next* to the slant, but not touching it. I should be staying near
the leftmost side of the track when I finish this turn because Turn
8 is coming up.
Turn 8
------
As with Turn 7, I would slide and take this turn from the outside and
work my way to the inside, making sure that my wheels are near the
slant (but not touching it), and continue to stay near the rightmost
side of the track because Turn 9 is coming up, and believe me, Turn 9
is a sharp left (a carryover from the Sunday Cup and all other B-Class
Races). Turn 8 is indeed a lot deadlier than Turn 7 so you may have
to go slower on this turn as opposed to Turn 7.
Turn 9
------
Deadly Sharp Left. Before you enter this turn, make sure that you're
not going any faster than ~50 mph. Start the turn from the outside,
work your way inside. If you performed this turn correctly, then you
should *barely* miss the wall. If you took this turn lousy, then be
prepared to hit the wall or spin out. Try not to slide here because
that's where beginners tend to overspeed and overslide, causing major
spinouts and problems that may show your vulnerability towards your
opponents.
Turn 10
-------
As deadly as this painfully sharp left may seem, it seems to be a *bad*
hairpin in disguise (but shouldn't be that bad). Try to slow down as
early as you can so you don't have to overslide and spin out on this
turn. I would say that ~60 mph would be safe (safe enough to avoid the
grass at the right), though my experimentation's been limited. If you
are going too fast or skidding too sloppy, then a nice Tunnel Wall is
waiting for you at the start of Turn 11.
Turn 11
-------
If you have taken Turn 10 neatly, great. At Turn 11, don't go any
slower than 90 mph. I would slide throughout the turn and possibly
use a *little* rapid gas tapping so that I don't accelerate until
after the turn finishes and the straightaway begins. Use the straight
before Turn 12 efficiently because at Turn 12, you'll have to cut your
speed *just a little* before the straight terminates.
Turn 12
-------
Is your speed cut to ~110 by the time the turn started? Well, do some
*controlled* rapid gas tapping as the turn keeps "going and going" and
refrain from accelerating until the turn ends. Failure to do this will
result in rail contact at the left, which may damage your tires.
Turns 13 and 14
---------------
No matter what kind of Gran Turismo Player you consider yourself, this
is something to worry about in Grand Valley Speedway. Cut your speed
to ~74 mph *as* you enter the first turn. Drift throughout the first
turn using out-and-in. You should not be going over ~60 mph on average
during the first turn, although I'm saying ~74 mph (you lose speed as
you slide). On Turn 14, cut your speed to around ~50 mph, take the turn
from the out-and-in, and refrain from accelerating until after you
complete this turn. You should be at around ~40 mph by the time your
at the final stretch (You tend to lose lots of speed here, so don't go
too fast as these turns are hairpins in nature).
Turn 15
-------
The key here is to take this turn without any unneccessary slowing down
or having to touch the grass on either side. I would say that ~130 mph
with some sliding (assuming that you started turning as the turn starts)
would be safe enough to avoid the slant and grass at the left. On the
second and third lap, you'll need to be careful when taking on Turns 1
and 2 because you may be at about 175 mph (on Class A Cars) by the time
you enter this area once again. Don't act like a drunk driver in this
track because the competition's much more powerful than in the Sunday
and Clubman Cup.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 5 REVERSE
One tough hombre. You need to utilize everthing you've got in order to
win this track, but I'm assuming that you're inside either a Subaru
Impreza Limited Edition or a Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition to reduce
the amount of fear in this track. This is also one track that the
computer tends to drive cheap in.
Turn 1
------
The key to taking on this turn is to slow down to 100 mph without any
sliding or wall contact. I would use some rapid-gas tapping throughout
this turn for enhanced control. I would try to stay in the middle of
the track most of the time, but please don't take my word for it because
you will be facing a nasty triangle sooner or later.
Turns 2-4
---------
For the first turn, slide and make sure that you are not going any
faster than 60 mph. On the final two turns, make sure that you are not
going any faster than 70 mph, and that you are trying to keep a smooth
racing line for as much as you can. It may be necessary to slide during
the final two turns, but not always as you can cut the apex of the final
two turns provided that you do not get into any frontal collisions with
the wall.
Turns 5 and 6
-------------
Negotiate these two corners by slowing down, drifting, and apex-cutting
these turns accordingly. Make sure that you start each of the turns
ahead of time or you may be throwing yourself at the outside of the
turn. At the end of Turn 6, you will need to cut the inside of the
track and exit staying in the inside because a hairpin is coming up.
Turn 7
------
Slide this lame hairpin for as much as you can, making sure that you
are not ending up on a sloppy slide and that you are not going any
faster than 40 mph, since this hairpin is pretty tight. You should
not be accelerating until after this turn. Don't feed in too much
gas while sliding on this hairpin to prevent all-wheel burn and
damage to all axles.
Turns 8 and 9
-------------
Try to cut each turn from the out-and-in by turning ahead of time
and using your drifting technique. Don't turn too late or you may
be mashing onto a deadly wall. The key to taking on this fast
chicane is to cut the apex and drift as much as possible without
blatant speed loss. You should take advantage of the straight after
Turn 9, but don't go to the right as you will suffer.
Turn 10
-------
This Ess can be taken at full speed. Make sure that you yank the car
just before the turn starts because these turns are rather blind for
beginners. Be careful if you approach this ess at a dangerously high
speed, though.
Turn 11
-------
Take this turn from the out-and-in, preparing yourself for Turn 12.
Don't slow down too much because this may result in a blatant skid,
something you don't want to do until you reach Turn 12.
Turn 12
-------
You can scrape the left wall by turning the car to the right just right
and hug the wall while stepping on the gas but that's risky because you
will burn up the tires and possibly spin all the wheels. I would just
skid on this turn (although I may have to hit the wall). You may have
to adjust your speed depending on your skill. I would say that 60 mph
is safe to start.
Turn 13
-------
Turn gently on this turn, making sure that you are going from the out
and in so you will prepare yourself for the final two turns. By the
time you start Turn 14, you should be lined up at the left side of the
track.
Turn 14
-------
The key to undertaking this turn is to cut the apex as much as possible
without any blatant sliding or slowing down. About 110 mph and over 100
mph would be reasonable. A good feel of the gas and wheel is required
in order to avoid any wall contact.
Turn 15
------
This final turn can be taken at full speed. If you skid, then just
make sure that you have the car straightened up before you cross the
finish line, as you will need every drop of speed to blast the enemies
into smithereens in this track. I doubt that you need to skid here
because all wheel drive cars were meant for stability.
========================================================================
FEATHERWEIGHT CAR CHAMPIONSHIP
Number of Tracks: 3
Laps per Track: 2
Required Class License: B-Class
Restriction of Car Type: See my notes below
Tracks involved: Autumnring-Mini Reverse, Clubman Stage Route 5, Deep
Forest Reverse (Mousse Lee at
[email protected])
Pole Position Bonus: 2000 Credits
Finish First in the Track Bonus: 5000 Credits
Series Winner Bonus: 10000 Credits
Car you get for winning the race: Either a Honda CRX Type R or a Mazda
Eunos for winning this tough series (
http://www.psmonline.com)
Recommended Cars: Acura Integra Type R, Mitsubishi FTO GP Version R
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Vestiroth's note: The Featherweight car championship is a tough B-Class
championship to win because the cars in this series tend to show a lot
of their potential here. Although the cars aren't as souped up as the
A-Class and the International A-Class races, they can be a problem much
to the fact that they're using advanced driving techniques. There are
bound to be some pretty powerful opposition in this race, so have a
powerful car in your garage to start. Here are the cars that eligible
to participate in the Featherweight/Economy Sports Car Championship:
* Toyota Starlet Glanza V
* Toyota Corolla Levin BZG
* Toyota Sprinter Trueno BZG
* Toyota AE86 Corrola Levin GT-APEX
* Toyota AE86 Sprinter Trueno GT-APEX
* Mitsubishi FTO 1994 GR
* Mitsubishi FTO 1994 GPX
* Mitsubishi FTO GPX
* Mitsubishi FTO GP Version R
* Mitsubishi Mirage Asti RX
* Mitsubishi Mirage 1992 Cyborg R
* Acura Integra GS-R
* Acura Integra Type R
* Honda Civic Sedan
* Honda Civic Racer
* Honda Civic 3-Door
* Honda Civic Del Sol S
* Honda Civic Del Sol Si
* Honda Civic 1991 CR-X Si
* Honda Civic 1993 3-Door
* Honda Civic 1993 Sedan
* Mazda Miata=Eunos Roadster 1989 Normal
* Mazda Miata=Eunos Roadster 1990 V-Special
* Mazda Miata=Eunos Roadster 1992 S-Special
* Mazda Miata=Eunos Roadster Normal
* Mazda Miata=Eunos Roadster V-Special
* Mazda Miata=Eunos Roadster S-Special
* Mazda Demio GL-X
* Mazda Demio GL
* Mazda Demio LX G-Package
* Mazda Demio A-Spec
This is according to what Sony said on their Reference Manual. If you
have any more cars that are eligible for this tough B-Class event, then
please e-mail me. Now keep in mind that you must be inside one of these
cars in order to enter this race, so make sure that you've purchased one
of these eligible entries before entering. Now without further dues,
here's some suggestions:
1. Purchase an Acura Integra Type R or a Mitsubishi FTO GP Version R.
Get used to these cars by throwing them on the Sunday Cup 10-12
times. Sell all Mazda Demios as you build up your potential at the
Sunday Cup. Use all the dough to overpower the Integra/FTO with
nothing but tune-up parts, and a Racing Modification which causes
your Lightweight car to perform better. Although the Acura Integra
is what allowed me to stay competitive in Castrol form, why not go
to Mitsubishi and purchase an FTO instead? You're encouraged to get
these cars in order to stay competitive:
* Acura Integra Type R
* Mitsubishi FTO 1994 GPX
* Mitsubishi FTO GPX
* Mitsubishi FTO GP Version R
2. With all the money earned from selling those lemoney Mazda Demios
and by dominating the Sunday Cup to nothing, go to either the Mugen
(if you are inside the Acura) or the Ralli Art (if you are inside
the Mitsubishi FTO) and tune up your car to the max, cut their
weight down, and transform them into Castrol Racers.
3. Test their racing dominence by doing a spot race at Autumnring-Mini
so you can get used to their control and speed.
4. Once you are used to your lovely Integra or FTO, it's time to burn
all these sissy economy cars to a crisp with an awesome racing
Economy car that you have purchased!
5. Although I have been using the Acura Integra Type R throughout all
my attempts in this series, I'm going to be basing this section of
this FAQ as if you were riding the Mitsubishi FTO GP Version R. If
you are not inside an Acura Integra Type R or a Class-B FTO, then I
don't know how you'll be able to earn respect in this series.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
AUTUMN RING MINI REVERSE
The key to succeeding in this track is to make sure that you don't do
too much blatant slowdown as featherweight cars were meant for handling
at wicked turns like the final hairpin at the final stretch of the
track. Also, try to convert some turns into one turn as you may save
your front wheels from burn.
Turn 1
------
Cut your speed to about 80 mph just before the turn starts. Skid this
lamer and by the time the chicanes begin, you should regain control of
the car.
Turns 2-5
---------
Ease yourself throughout this chicane. Keep your speed around 70 mph to
avoid grass contact. Try to keep a straight racing line in order to
maintain your top speed. Use Turn 5 as your cue to Turn 6.
Turn 6
------
You should start skidding at Turn 5 as preparation for undertaking this
turn. I would say you should cut your speed to around 50 mph when you
undertake Turn 5 so you can treat Turns 5 and 6 as one turn. Don't
bother accelerating until after you finish Turn 6.
Turn 7
------
Slow down ahead of time so you can cut the apex of the turn. Skid this
lamer as much as you can (but keep in mind that you may touch the grass
during the Apex cut). Right before Turn 8 begins, you should have the
car straightened up so you can drift throughout this turn.
Turn 8
------
Drift this turn at around 50 mph (but no more than 60 mph). Have your
car straightened up after Turn 7 so you can brake smoothly and in a
straight line to avoid any blatant wheelspin and possibly a spin-out.
Turn 9
------
This could be pretty much the worst turn in the track. You'll need to
slow down to 37 mph just before the turn starts. Hopefully, you got
the car straightened up after Turn 8 because you need every drop of
control in order to pass this hairpin without error. Try not to spin
the rear tires as this may result in a blatant spinout.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
CLUBMAN STAGE ROUTE 5
You need to make sure that you are not doing any blatant slowdowns in
this course because in this track, all of your computer foes tend to
pose a threat because they are taking the most wicked turns at even
ludicrous speeds (because of the low volume weight), so in order to
increase the chances of winning, you'll need to be inside a Castrolized
Featherweight/Economy Car.
Turn 1
------
I would slow down just a *bit* so I can prepare to take on Turn 2
without any braking, but you can take this turn in full speed provided
that your speed isn't exceeding the safe speed at Turn 2.
Turn 2
------
I would say that ~90 mph would be a safe speed here. You can try higher
speeds depending on the car that you are in and depending on your driving
prowess. You should try to do *controlled* braking here so you don't go
over 100 mph which seems to be unsafe for normal and modified cars.
Turn 3
------
Drift from the outside and into the inside. You should be at the right
side of the track in preparation for Turn 4, which is pretty dangerous.
Don't go bonkers accelerating here because you have Turn 4 to worry about
immediately after this turn.
Turn 4
------
You should try to cut your speed to ~60 mph here. Slow down ahead of
time and take this turn from the out-and-in. Don't slow down too late
or you may be slamming into the wall really hard.
Turn 5
------
Providing that you have taken Turn 4 smoothly, this turn can be taken
with some acceleration. If you taken Turn 4 horribly, then I don't
have a friggin' clue on how you'll be able to take this turn.
Turns 6&7
---------
This ess can be taken at full speed providing that you are turning
ahead of time and providing that you are taking the turn from the
out-and-in. Please try to keep a smooth racing line here because
this turns out to be one of the areas where beginners lose control.
Turn 8
------
Slow down ahead of time and start the turn from the right. Begin
drifting when appropriate. Try not to go bonkers sliding because
you'll slam into the wall. Don't accelerate because you have Turn
9 to deal with next.
Turn 9
------
This turn is sharper than Turn 8. As with Turn 8, take this turn
out-and-in and by drifting. You need to go slower than in Turn 9
(but not too slow that the drones are harassing you) in order to set
up for the acceleration at the straightaway. When you overtake Turn 1
on the next lap, you need to slow down at Turn 1 so you can keep a
smooth racing line at Turn 2.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
DEEP FOREST REVERSE
This is the hardest course among all the tracks in the Featherweight Car
Championships because you have to deal with the grass at nearly every
turn and there are bound to be times when you're forced to take turns
at high speeds, but hey, what is a Featherweight Car used for in a Gran
Turismo Race? So make sure you think twice before trying to do any
slow down because the computer cars tend to take nasty turns at high
speeds. Stay off the grass because you may melt the tires.
Turn 1
------
You can powerslide this sucker providing that you braked the car just
before the turn starts, and controlled the slide during the turn. If
you're not crazy about sliding, then you may want to slow down to 95
mph just before the turn starts.
Turns 2 and 3
-------------
Turn 2 can be taken at full speed. However, you will need to slow down
at a straight line when you are about to undertake Turn 3. I would say
85 mph with some sliding would be reasonable enough to avoid hitting
the wall at the left.
Turns 4 and 5
-------------
These turns are as close as you'll find with a straightaway, so make
sure that you are keeping a straight racing line to ensure that your
car is running straight and smooth so you can slow down by the time
you see some sections of Turn 6.
Turn 6
------
When you see some sections of the turn, you should cut your speed
according to the weight of your car. Keep in mind that heavier cars
tend to take longer to slow down, so you will need to keep that in
</pre><pre id="faqspan-3">
mind. Cut your speed to 110 mph before the turn starts, and when
Turn 6 begins, release the gas pedal, brake, and rapid-tap the gas.
I would say that you're going to end up going 80 mph sliding for the
most part.
Turns 7 and 8
-------------
The key to undertaking these turns is to keep a smooth racing line
without any blatant slowdown. You should try to speed out if you
risk going inside the grass, but you should never try to get into a
blatant slide here. When you are inside the tunnel, you should be
at a smooth racing line so that you can slow down in preparation for
turns 9 and 10.
Turns 9 and 10
--------------
Slow down to 60 mph when you are inside the tunnel. You should be
below 60 mph by the time Turn 9 begins. You can skid throughout this
turn, but it's rather dangerous because if you land on the grass, then
you'll accidentially spin the rear wheels (causing a possible spinout).
You will need to be running in a straight line by the time you get
inside the tunnel that signals Turn 10. Again, cut your speed (but
don't slow down too much) while inside the tunnel, and as the tunnel
ends, begin to skid. Try to use the out-and-in technique and make
sure that you are not going inside the grass.
Turns 11-13
-----------
A smooth racing line will help you set up for the final hairpin at the
final stretch of the track. Just make sure that you are not undergoing
a blatant skid or any grass mowing during these three turns.
Turn 14
-------
Go to the leftmost lane and cut your speed to about 60 mph. When the
turn starts, lean to the inside of the track, and forget about using
the gas in full until you can get out of the haripin without error.
The key to undertaking this hairpin is with *zest* speed control.
========================================================================
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
The purpose of creating Gran Turismo FAQs grouped by License Classes is
to provide help in how to pass the license tests, and how to get first
place in each track and series. This also happens to be one of the
PlayStation games where I've been receiving lots of stupid e-mail about
questions that can be easily answered by myself when I was only 7 years
of age. Before you even e-mail me about Gran Turismo again, you are
strongly advised to look over this section before e-mailing me. Most
of your questions should be answered by just simply looking at this FAQ
and/or just by looking at this section!
Q: Is there a code to unlock the 1967 Chevrolet Corvette in the Simulation
Mode of the game?
A: Hell no. This car is only available at the Arcade Mode of the game.
Q: How come you don't write any FAQs for the Arcade Mode of the game?
A: Simple. Because much of the game's replay value is centralized
throughout the Simulation Mode.
Q: Why do you tell me to use the FWD and AWD cars in any of your GT
FAQs?
A: They're a lot more stable and more forgiving to drive than Rear
Wheel Cars, which require a lot of respect. My personal favorite
is the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition with AWD, a great prize you
can have for winning the US Versus Japan Championships.
Q: Why don't you use the Concept Car?
A: I hate the Concept Car. It's rather unstable and it sucks (IMHO).
However, Adrian Pepper recommends that you try it in one race
although you may hate the unstable nature of the car. You have to
test the car and keep on fiddling the car until you find the right
settings for you. To caution you, never, ever, ever fiddle the
car's settings (you've got to know the car's strengths and weaknesses
first) unless you know what you're doing. This is my most hated
car from my perspective, and this car isn't Mark Kim-approved
at all.
Q: Do I NEED to run all stages of Weight Reduction before buying the
Racing Body?
A: Now this is one interesting question. I usually purchase all stages
of Weight Reduction before buying the Racing Body. However, this is
what has Brian McNulty said to me on a previous message:
"I am writing to you about your B, A, and IA strategy guides. I have
noted several times that you make notes telling people to 'Make sure
that you buy all the stages of weight reduction before you buy the
racing modification'.
This is not acurate in that your car will weigh the same after the
racing modification regardless of whether or not you buy the weight
reduction or not.
I conducted an experiment with Mutsubishi GTO Twin Turbo. The car
brand new weighs 3769 lbs, after three stages of weight reduction,
AND, racing modification it weighed 2713 lbs.
I then bought another GTO same color and all weighing 3769 lbs. off
the lot and performed ONLY the racing modification. Both of these
cars *Castrolized* weighed 2713 lbs, one with the racing mod., the
other without.
Try it some time and E-mail me with the results."
Q: What are the best cars to use for each series?
A: Here's the lowdown:
Sunday Cup: A car that's powerful enough.
Clubman Cup: An adequately-powered up Nissan Skyline GTS-R
GT Cup: A fully-tuned Nissan Skyline GTS-R or a Mitsubishi FTO LM
GT World Cup: Same as with the GT Cup
Front-Wheel Drive: Mitsubishi FTO GP Version R, Fully Tuned, Racing
Body under your discretion.
Rear-Wheel Drive: Dodge Viper or TVR Cerbera. The Viper GTS-R
and Cerbera LM are also strong cars.
All-Wheel Drive: Any Nissan Skyline GTS-R
Featherweight Championships: Mitsubishi FTO GP Version R, Fully
Tuned. I personally would try to get a racing body with this one.
US Versus Japan: Nissan Skyline GTS-R or Mitsubishi FTO LM
Japan Versus UK: Nissan Skyline GTS-R or Mitsubishi FTO LM
US Versus UK: TVR Cerbera LM or Dodge Viper GTS-R
Commercial Car Championships: Dodge Viper GTS/RT-10 (Don't do
anything to it) or the Rarity from the IA License Tests.
Heavily Tuned Championships: Heavily Tuned Nissan Skyline GT-R
(No Racing Bodies). This is the hardest race to win on because
you can't bring along your big-daddy racing cars to this one, which
is a sad moment!
Megaspeed: Nissan Skyline GT-R V-Spec or Mitsubishi GTO
Twinturbo/MR fully fiddled for speeds of at least 245 mph
Grand Valley Endurance: Mitsubishi FTO LM
Special Stage Route 11 Endurance: Mitsubishi FTO LM
Special Stage Route 11 Reverse Endurance: Heavily Tuned Nissan
Skyline GT-R (No Racing Bodies). This is another difficult race to
win. Definitely configure your car for handling here.
Q: I can't get past License A-4!
A: This is one of the game's toughest tests in the Simulation Mode. The
key in this license test is to corner through bad turns without blatant
slowdown. The Nissan Skyline GT-R VSpec isn't an easy car to use so
this track may require use of Manual Transmission. At the starting line,
you want to cut through the apex and stay inside
all the way at full speed. Slow down ahead of time from the outside
before the first sharp turn and don't brake too hard. Cut the apex of
the sharp turn and use short taps of the gas to buffer the cornering.
If you have to slow down, just use short taps of the pedal. At the
final major turn, you want to be at the outside and then just use the
gas pedal. Cut the apex. Try to keep a smooth line all the way so
that you don't lose speed from sliding through the turn. This test
takes a lot of getting used to so don't get pissed if you can't pass it
your first couple of times. This test mainly sees how competent of a
driver you are rather than on speed.
Be sure to pay attention to my Gran Turismo A-Class License Guide as
it has some rough hypothesis on this cheap test!
Q: Tell me the eligible cars for the featherweight championships!
A: The eligible cars are as follows:
* Toyota Starlet Glanza V
* Toyota Corolla Levin BZG
* Toyota Sprinter Trueno BZG
* Toyota AE86 Corolla Levin GT-APEX
* Toyota AE86 Sprinter Trueno GT-APEX
* Mitsubishi FTO 1994 GR
* Mitsubishi FTO 1994 GPX
* Mitsubishi FTO GPX
* Mitsubishi FTO GP Version R
* Mitsubishi Mirage Asti RX
* Mitsubishi Mirage 1992 Cyborg R
* Acura Integra GS-R
* Acura Integra Type R
* Honda Civic Sedan
* Honda Civic Racer
* Honda Civic 3-Door
* Honda Civic Del Sol S
* Honda Civic Del Sol Si
* Honda Civic 1991 CR-X Si
* Honda Civic 1993 3-Door
* Honda Civic 1993 Sedan
* Mazda Miata Eunos Roadster 1989 Normal
* Mazda Miata Eunos Roadster 1990 V-Special
* Mazda Miata Eunos Roadster 1992 S-Special
* Mazda Miata Eunos Roadster Normal
* Miata Eunos Roadster V-Special
* Mazda Miata Eunos Roadster S-Special
* Mazda Demio GL-X
* Mazda Demio GL
* Mazda Demio LX G-Package
* Mazda Demio A-Spec.
All cars (with the exception of the Demio A-Spec) are shown on your
GT Manual and Instruction Book.
Q: I can't get past License Test B-3!!!
A: It's time for the real fight. This test is possibly the toughest test
among the B-Class License Tests. Since the Honda Civic Del Sol
doesn't have lively acceleration and excellent speed, your best bet is
to stay at the right side of the track and try to slow down ahead of
time. Don't use the brakes since you may blatantly slow down. Use
short taps of the Gas to level around the apex and make sure that
you keep a smooth driving line so that you don't lose too much speed.
I highly recommend using the Manual Transmission for this track.
Q: I CAN'T PASS A SINGLE IA-LICENSE TEST!!!
A: All of these IA-Class License Tests are set on the Time Trials,
requiring you to utilize just about everything you learned from the
B and A Class Events. If for any reason you can't master any of the
IA-License Tests, then here are the solutions:
1. Try attempting on all of the first seven License Tests. If
for any reason you can't pass any of the seven license
tests, then just exit out of the IA License Tests and save
your progress to your Memory Card.
2. The best way to know how to use the Dodge Viper GTS
Coupe is to throw the Dodge Viper GTS Coupe on the
Commercial Car Championships. Buy a Viper GTS Coupe
and don't do anything to it. Not only this is a great way
to get used to the Viper GTS Coupe, but it's also a great
way to earn some cold hard cash.
3. Try to buy a TVR Griffith and don't do anything to it. Test
the TVR Griffith through the "freelance" Time Trial Runs
and see how good you are with the Griffith. You may
need to practice with the TVR through the Sunday Cup a
few times to get used to it.
4. I personally would try to get used to a car with at least
500 Horsepower. There are plenty of Racing Models that
has lots of horses under the hood. Also, try to get used
to a fully-tuned, racing modified Nissan Skyline GT-R or a
Mitsubishi GTO TwinTurbo/MR.
5. I personally would participate in any of these A-Class
Series: All International Competition Series, GT Cup, and
the Commecial Car Series. Also, try to use a Rear-Drive
Racing Car so that you can get used to the Rear-Drive
Cars a lot better.
Q: Please tell me what the cheats are.
A: I'll make this clear: THERE ARE NO CHEAT CODES IN GRAN TURISMO!!!!
Sony did a good job creating a game that has NO CHEAT CODES
whatsoever. Cheat codes ONLY RUIN REPLAY VALUE so be it. PLEASE DO
NOT BEG ME FOR ANY MORE GRAN TURISMO/GRAN TURISMO 2 CHEAT CODES
THROUGH E-MAIL ANYMORE!!! I'm getting sick and tired of
anybody begging me for any cheat codes!!!! If you EVEN DARE
ask me for any cheat codes for Gran Turismo or Gran Turismo 2,
then I will assume you spamming me.
Q: What do you mean by "Castrolizing" the car?
A: I use the term "Castrolize" as a classification when you tune up
your car to the maximum possible levels. This means maxing-out the
brakes, gearshaft, horsepower, and all other attributes of the car.
I'll leave the decision between weight reduction and racing body up
to you, though.
Q: When are you going to create an FAQ for Gran Turismo 2 for the Play
Station?
A: Definitely not. I was overall disappointed with the sequel.
========================================================================
THE DO'S AND DONT'S
Again, this FAQ is for use only in the following sites:
* Mark Kim's Website:
http://home.comcast.net/~markkim31
* GameFAQs
http://www.gamefaqs.com
If you find this FAQ is AT ANY OTHER SITE OTHER THAN THE LISTED ABOVE,
THEN IT IS AN ILLEGAL COPY. Please notify and/or warn me about this
as soon as you can. Thank you.
In addition, only myself (Mark Kim, Vesther Fauransy) and Gamers.COM
(
http://www.gamers.com, Joel, please notify me of any address changes
if you are reading this) are the ONLY ones who can HTMLize this file
(with bug busts and grammar changes permitted).
Why? Because these sites are the only ones that keep all original work
updated and up-to-date.
You can always get the latest version of this FAQ at GameFAQs since I
always put the latest version of my works right there first.
GameFAQs does a good job keeping the files up-to-date at all times and
is regarded as the most visited "stable" for FAQ-related walkthroughs,
original work, and the like.
Rules:
* DO NOT place this file in your web site directly. Only Joel Downs,
GameFAQs, and myself have exclusive rights to this file.
* If you are planning to link to any of the sites I have
mentioned on this reminder, then you are to be advised that
your linking rights are heavily limited as foretold on the
webmaster's fine prints (depending on where you plan to make
your link to). If I'm too vague on this, then please visit
the following URL to see why more and more webmasters are
restricting links:
=
http://www.templetons.com/brad/linkright.html (Brad Templeton's
Linking Rights Essay).
========================================================================
REFERENCES OF THIS FAQ
NO GT FAQ can be complete without giving "hard credit" for those who
helped me out while I was still green on this game. These people/sites
are:
* Jaz Rignall (
http://www.psmonline.com)
* GameFAQs.com (
http://www.gamefaqs.com)
* Mousse Lee
* Mystery Rhee (
http://mit.edu/mystery/www/gtfaq.txt)
* Sam Davis
* Fukomoto Atsushi (
http://www.imasy.or.jp/~fukumoto/gt/)
* Secrets of the Sega Sages (
http://www.segasages.com)
* Imagine Games Network (
http://www.imaginegames.com)
========================================================================
SUGGESTING SUGGESTIONS AND OTHER TRALALA
Sending UCE to any of the mailboxes that I have is not tolerated.
Period. I report any incidence of spamming by checking the header on
where you originated the message at and then report the incidence to
the server you originated your message at (which is more likely to get
you in deep trouble) or I can just slam you by sending complaints to
the following: The server you originated the message at, to your
provider, or possibly the Free-Mail Service that you use. Don't spam
me. It's not worth it.
In addition, I WILL _NO LONGER_ TOLERATE ANY E-MAIL ASKING ME FOR ANY
CHEATS COMPATIBLE FOR GRAN TURISMO. If you even dare ask me for any
cheat codes for GT, then I will assume that you are spamming.
See
http://spam.abuse.net to see why it's bad.
========================================================================
SOME RANTS
After having to winder around the International A Class License tests,
I managed to get my IA-Class License and saved this progress on my
Memory Card. This is good because I don't want to go through the
trouble of having to get my license once again. It may be hard to get
your IA License but once you get it, then it's worth the effort of
getting it.
When I read one of GameFan's magazines (Commercial Magazines now suck
these days, now that you can get hardcore strategies on the Internet
for free), I've realized that there is NO CHEAT CODES listed for Gran
Turismo. Be it. There is no cheat codes for Gran Turismo. Sony will
not create any cheat codes for any game that they might publish or
develop and never will. Cheat Codes only spoil replay value, and that's
the bottom line!
========================================================================
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
* Jaz Rignall for being the standard example of Gran Turismo Domination
and being the wiz in Gran Turismo. Read his Gran Turismo Guide at
http://www.psmonline.com.
* Sony and Polyphony Digital for creating the best PlayStation Game in
the market ever yet.
* Toyota, Honda, Acura, Nissan, Mitsubishi, Mazda, Subaru, Chrysler,
General Motors, TVR, and Aston Martin for permitting Sony to portray
their cars in Gran Turismo.
* Fukomoto Atsushi, Sam Davis, Mousse Lee, and Mystery Rhee for being
one of the many first FAQ Authors to produce a Gran Turismo FAQ.
* Secrets of the Sega Sages for secrets regarding about winning the
Commercial Car Race.
* Imagine Games Network for accepting Sega Sages and GameFAQs.com as
IGN Affiliates.
* Tigeraid (John Culbert) for using my Gran Turismo Documents as a basis
for creating his own compendium.
* Joel Downs for creating HTMLized versions of my Gran Turismo Documents
and for days of e-mail communication.
* GameFAQs for being the largest stable of original, fresh work.
* Chris MacDonald/Kao Megura for being the first 5MB FAQ Author.
** END OF DOCUMENT **
Unpublished Work (tm) and (c) by Mark Kim. All Rights Reserved
Gran Turismo: (tm) and (c) by Sony Computer Entertainment. Developed
by Polyphony Digital. All the cars, images, their likelinesses, and
other real-life car-related events are (tm) and (c) of their respective
owners.
