Gran Turismo
A-Class License Winning Strategies Guide
Sony Computer Entertainment/Polyphony Digital for the
Sony PlayStation 1 Console
WARNING: This guide will ONLY work for the American versions of the game
Compiled by Mark Kim
Final Revision
Date of Completion: March 27, 2005
Copyright Information
---------------------
Unpublished work trademarked (tm) and copyrighted (c) by Mark Kim.
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Gran Turismo is developed by Polyphony Digital under license by Sony
Computer
Entertainment, Inc. This game is copyrighted 1997, 1998 Sony
Computer
Entertainment. All Rights Reserved. The cars, images, and
all cars'
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All Rights Reserved. This FAQ was created by Mark
Kim in respect to Sony,
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Mitsubishi, Aston Martin,
Chevrolet, Nissan, TVR, Dodge, and Subaru
Properties, as I have no
intention of infringement on copyright on any
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========================================================================
GENERAL INFORMATION
Make: Gran Turismo
Developer: Polyphony Digital
Publisher: Sony Computer Entertainment
Release Date: First Quarter 1998
ESRB Classification: E for Everyone, Suitable for All Ages
Genre: Racing
Platform: Sony PlayStation Type 1
MSRP: Sold as Greatest Hits for Low Price if still available
Recommended Controllers: Sony Analog Dual-Shock Controller
Features: Memory Card Save. Each save requires in between 1-5 blocks.
========================================================================
HISTORY OF THIS FAQ
March 27, 2005: This is the final edition of this FAQ as I will no longer
update this for any reason. Sorry.
========================================================================
CONTENTS OF THIS FAQ
* Newsflash
* Some recommendations
* Classification of Car Castrolization
* What is an A Class License?
* A-Class License Examinations
= Practical Cornering Part 1
= Practical Cornering Part 2
= Practical Cornering Part 3
= Advanced Cornering Part 1
= Advanced Cornering Part 2
= Advanced Cornering Part 3
= Powersliding
= Coping with Hairpins at High Speeds (Final Exam)
* Clubman Cup
* GT Cup
* Japanese and American Car Championship
* Japanese and British Car Championship
* American and British Car Championship
* Megaspeed Championship
* Commercial Car Championship
* The Do's and Dont's
* Some Rants
* Resources and Stuff
* Acknowledgements
* One Final Warning
========================================================================
NEWSFLASH
***AN IMPORTANT RANT FROM THE FAQ AUTHOR***
AS YOU SHOULD HAVE NOTICED FROM MY PREVIOUS WORKS, I WILL _NOT_ BE
ACCEPTING ANY E-MAILS FROM ANY WEBMASTER WHO SEEKS TO PLACE THIS FILE
ON THEIR OWN WEBSITE REGARDLESS OF THE CAUSE. THIS IS BECAUSE THERE
ARE TOO MANY SITES THAT _STILL_ HAS THE OUTDATED VERSION OF MY WORKS
AND I REALLY HATE TO SEE IT LURKING AROUND THE INTERNET. THE REASON
WHY I HAVE TO RESTRICT THE AMOUNT OF WEBSITES THAT CAN MIRROR MY WORKS
IS BECAUSE I WANT TO KEEP MY WORKS CURRENT AND UP-TO-DATE. ANY MORE
E-MAILS REQUESTING PERMISSION TO MIRROR THIS FILE _WILL_ BE FILTERED.
THE ONLY SITES THAT HAVE MY SEAL OF APPROVAL TO MIRROR MY WORKS ARE
THE SITES LISTED IN THE COPYRIGHT INFORMATION IN THE BEGINNING OF
EVERY OF MY WORKS.
IF FOR ANY REASON YOU _DO_ MIRROR ANY OF MY WORKS ON YOUR OWN WEBSITE
WITHOUT MY SEAL OF APPROVAL, INSTANT LEGAL ACTION WILL BE TAKEN
IMMEDIATELY. I APPRECIATE YOUR COOPERATION IN THIS MATTER AND AGAIN,
THE ANSWER WILL _ALWAYS_ BE NO IF FOR ANY REASON IF YOU WANT TO PLACE
THIS FILE INSIDE YOUR WEBSITE REGARDLESS OF THE CAUSE AND WHETHER THE
CONTENT FROM ANY OF MY WORKS IS EITHER GOOD OR BAD.
THIS HAS BEEN MY POLICY EVER SINCE I HAVE STARTED TO RESTRICT THE
AMOUNT OF SITES THAT ARE PERMITTED TO MIRROR MY WORKS AND IT WILL
ALWAYS BE.
Note: This notice is derived on Brett "Nemesis" Franklin's Crazy Taxi
FAQ for the Sega Dreamcast although there has been some variations to
make this one more severe and a bit more formal. Also, I will repeat
this near the end of the document.
Always check
http://www.gamefaqs.com for the latest version of this
FAQ. Like I said, this is the final update of the FAQ's life as I have
declared an EOL on this FAQ, so there will be no more updates!!!
Sorry.
This document, like all Video Game FAQs on the Internet, must be
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set the font size to 10.
========================================================================
RECOMMENDATIONS
1. Since you must possess the B-Class License before you can get the
A-Class License, go take and pass all 8 B-Class License Tests before
taking the 8 A-Class License tests first. After you get the B-Class
License, you may wish to get your A-Class License from this point,
but I recommend that you go race all B-Class races first.
2. A good way to practice all of your skills in the Simulation Mode
right after you get your B-Class License would be to play lots of
games at the Sunday Cup to improve your skills. Although you don't
earn too much credits for the B-Class Championship series, it's a
steady way to upgrade your car.
3. Since you start with only 10,000 in a mint-vanilla data file, I
highly recommend that you purchase a Toyota MA70Supra of some sorts
because the acceleration and handling should suit your needs. I
have to warn you though that unless you learn how to tame this used
car, the MA70Supra will spin out pretty often, so it's important
that you don't overspin the Rear Wheels.
4. Spot Races are a great way to improve your skills, but for Pole
Positioning you will only earn 500 credits, and if you win the race,
you will only get 1,000 credits. I would just get my B-License and
participate in the Sunday Cup often instead.
5. Once you get enough credits, you may upgrade your MA70 Supra to suit
your own tastes, or you can get certain cars that you want to
commandeer.
6. After you get used to the Sunday Cup, try the B-Class special events
to push your skills further, and once your skills are polished, I
would start with the Clubman Cup first since you are not gonna have
any powerful cars to spare in the GT Cup.
7. There are bound to be restrictions on the car that you can ride on
during the Special Event Championships. I'll pin-point any possible
restrictions which may apply.
8. Gran Turismo is the most realistic racing game up to date, so I
recommend that you just enjoy the game. Although you may get pissed
just because the computer races unfairly, you should try to discover
new techniques or/and routines to improve your skills. Having fun
while playing Gran Turismo is the most important part that I'm asking
of you.
9. Before YOU EVEN PLAY GRAN TURISMO, buy yourself a PlayStation Dual
Shock Analog Controller. When you turn on your PlayStation, set the
analog ON, because your thumb doesn't like to be rubbing the D-Pad
for 2-3 hours. I recommend using this controller over the D-Pad
because the Analog Stick is a lot more comfy (though takes time to
master) than having to rub my thumb on the D-Pad.
10. I highly recommend that you go to
http://www.psmonline.com and check
out Jaz Rignall's Gran Turismo Guide.
========================================================================
CASTROLIZATION OF THE CARS
When I first created this document about 2 years ago, I felt that if
you modify the cars to the teeth, then the cars would definitely be
unbeatable. I was wrong. Because each cars have its own strengths
and weaknesses, beefing the cars up to maximum strength varies from
car to car. For example, a Viper GTS Coupe can't go up to NA Level
3 but starts out with a lot of horsepower and torque when you first
buy it. On the other hand, some of the better cars in the game (i.e.
Nissan Skyline GT-R VSpec) _can_ be beefed up to the teeth with the
highest level modification parts available in the game. Please
be warned that some cars may have higher prices as far as mod parts
are concerned.
Usually, cars perform better when they use maximum-
strength modification
parts, but some cars perform better without the
brute force they need.
Some of the Japanese Cars (i.e. Nissan Skyline
GT-R VSpec) cannot perform
well unless you've placed a maximum-strength
mod part or two. That is
why learning the tracks and winning them all
is as important as fully tuning your cars to the teeth.
Unless you are a real mechanic, you should never fiddle with some of the
settings because you can either make a car unstable, stiff, or even
worse, unforgiving to use. That is why you need to think twice before
even adjusting some of the car's properties (i.e. Suspension) before
even attempting this risk. That is why some cars perform better when
fully Castrolized than the others.
Castrolizing your car involves tuning up your car with the following
Tune-Ups:
* Muffler and Air Filter
= Racing Muffler and Air Filter
* Brakes
= Sports Brakes
= Brake Balance Controller
* Engine Tuning
= Tuned ROM
= Port Polishing
= Engine Balancing
= Bore and Stroke-Up (Increasing Displacement)
* For Turbo Cars
= Turbo Kit Level 4
= Racing High-Capacity Intercooler
* For Normal Aspirated Cars
= Normal Aspiration Tuneup Kit Level 3 (This applies ONLY to some cars)
* Transmission
= Racing Support Gearbox
= Triple-Plate Clutch
= Racing Flywheel
= Carbon Driveshaft (only applies to certain cars)
* Suspension
= Racing Support Suspension
= Any Stabilizers (Remember overstiffening your car's suspension will
equate to lousy driving)
* Tires
= Soft/Soft Racing Tires
* Others
= Weight Reduction All Stages (All stages of Weight Reduction MUST be
performed in order
= Racing Body Modification
Well, that's all I can say for now!!!
========================================================================
THE VIRTUE AND THE TITLE OF AN A-CLASS LICENSE
Note: You _MUST_ possess a B-Class License before attempting an A-Class
License Test as stated before in all of my GT Documents.
An A-Class License means that you're entitled to participate in an even
more vast array of courses than B-Class License Holders. You can
participate in any race with the exception of the races that require
an International A Class License. What this license means to you is that
you've mastered the more advanced techniques of cornering of hairpins,
blind turns, and weird corridors, something that you should be proud of
because you're capable of using an important skill in the world of Gran
Turismo. Holding an A-Class License, you should be able to do the
following according to Fukumoto Atsushi:
- Knowing when to start cornering from a gruesomely long straight and
from extreme high speeds.
- Able to corner in weird turns, blind corners, complex curves, and any
difficult corridors at Special Stage Route 11.
- Being able to avoid spinouts at all costs (Something that is more
important in the A Class than in the B Class).
And here are the races that you are now able to participate provided
that you have won the A-Class License:
* The GT League:
- Clubman Cup
- GT Cup
* Special Events:
- Japanese and American Car Championship
- Japanese and British Car Championship
- American and British Car Championship
- Megaspeed Championship
- Commercial Car Championship
========================================================================
A-CLASS LICENSE TEST EXAMINATIONS
Note: In order to start taking these tests, you must pass all eight
B-Class License Tests first.
Index of tests:
A-1: Practical Cornering Part 1
A-2: Practical Cornering Part 2
A-3: Practical Cornering Part 3
A-4: Advanced Cornering Part 1
A-5: Advanced Cornering Part 2
A-6: Advanced Cornering Part 3
A-7: Powersliding
A-8: Coping with Hairpins at High Speeds (Final Exam)
Note: In order to take A-8, you must pass the first seven tests first.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
A-1: Practical Cornering Part 1
Test Car: Toyota Supra RZ
Time Limit: 34"000
Prerequsite: None
Parts of the Test's Areas: The final stretch, to the Starting Line,
into the first hairpin of Deep Forest.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Accelerate, stay low on the final turn at Deep Forest, cut the apex of
the first turn, and cross the finish line. The straightaway is a lot
longer this time around. Although it sounds easy, your main concern is
the first hairpin at Deep Forest, where you must keep your speed below
66 mph using out-and-in, slow-in, fast out without going off course, and
since the Supra is on the heavy side (much to the fact that it has an
understeer problem), you need to allow some time to slow down. Use the
signs to slow down, and definitely brake from the outside of the turn.
Start the turn when you are finished braking. Keep your foot off the
pedal while braking, though. Try using rapid-tap when taking on the
turn, but otherwise, it's too hard to explain for now, much to the fact
that you're making an entrance to the first turn of Deep Forest at speeds
of up to 135mph.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
A-2: Practical Cornering Part 2
Test Car: Toyota Supra RZ
Time Limit: 27"000
Prerequsite: None
Parts of the Test's Areas: The final stretch, to the Starting Line,
into the first hairpin of Autumn Ring.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Accelerate, cut the apex of the final Ess at Autumn Ring, into the
starting line, cut the apex of the first hairpin, and cross the finish
line. The straightaway is long enough to make your life miserable, but
shouldn't be as dizzy as with the first one but you still have to be
concerned about the Supra's understeer and fat if you want to avoid any
course-outs on Autumn Ring's first hairpin. I found the hairpin a lot
sharper than Deep Forest's. Stay at the left side of the track while on
the straightaway, and try to find a nice braking spot so that you can
brake to no more than 50 mph (slower if you are sloppy), cut the apex,
fast-out as the hairpin terminates, and cross the finish line. Very
frustrating test as there are no hairpin signs to help you slow down
ahead of time. Rapid-tap as you go inside the hairpin. Be careful when
taking on this hairpin because the Supra RZ has a tendency to understeer.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
A-3: Practical Cornering Part 3
Test Car: Mazda RX-7
Time Limit: 44"000
Prerequsite: None
Parts of the Test's Areas: Right after the worry-aboutie Chicanes, into
the final stretch, through the finish line, onto the bent and the first
hairpin and just before the gentle Ess at Grand Valley Speedway.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Accelerate, stay low on the final two turns of Grand Valley Speedway,
into the starting line, and onto the gentle left bent and cut the apex
of the first hairpin onto the finishing line. I really hate this test
because you are taking on a right hairpin turn supported by a left bent.
This is SARCASTICALLY DIZZY because a straight gives you more time to
prepare for the hairpin than a slight bent, but you'll have to worry
about the speed that you're entering the first hairpin since you're
entering this one at 140+ mph. What I would do is to stay on the right
side of the track, and move towards the left on the gentle bent, and
using out-and-in, I would brake at a straight line to no more than 58
mph (my experimentation's limited here), cut the apex, rapid-tap, and
fast-out of the turn. Dreadful because the left bent before the hairpin
can throw off your timing pretty easily.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
A-4: Advanced Cornering Part 1
Test Car: Nissan Skyline GTR V Spec
Time Limit: 39"000
Prerequsite: None
Parts of the Test's Areas: The Tunnel Hairpin, into the kaye right
after the dip, onto the medium right before the tunnel, and finally
into the medium left before the straightaway at Trial Mountain.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
The key to passing this test is to take all turns without any blatant
slowing down. I consider this a tough test because you need to avoid
hitting the walls. To pass the test, I would cut the apex of Turn 4 of
Trial Mountain, then I try to use out-and-in, slow-in, fast-out at Turn
5, and take the Medium Right at around 85 mph (rapid-tap if you think
you are going to touch the grass), and cut the apex blatantly (try to
slow down ahead of time) taking the medium left before the straight at
75 mph. Try to keep a smooth racing line at all costs. The reasonable
speed of the sharp right is 50 mph. You may want to try out all turns
at higher speeds if necessary.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
A-5: Advanced Cornering Part 2
Test Car: Honda Prelude
Time Limit: 30"000
Prerequsite: None
Parts of the Test's Areas: After the second tight hairpin, onto the
Medium Left, onto the Medium Right, and onto the Sharp Left before the
tunnel at Grand Valley Speedway.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
I'm glad that you're given a break here because you're on the wheel of
a front-drive car right now. The ideal speed for the first two turns
is 85 mph. I found the medium right a little sharper than the Medium
Left. Be sure that you take advantage of the Prelude's Front Wheel
Drive while taking on the first two turns. Try to cut the apex of all
turns. The third turn before the Tunnel is your main concern. Cut your
speed to around 50 mph, out-and-in, and fast-out as you exit the turn.
Be careful not to frontup the Tunnel as this is grounds for immediate
fail. You must be a careful driver in order to take the final sharp
turn of this test with ease and zest! Powersliding on the final turn
is OK, but be sure that you don't course-out at all, though.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
A-6: Advanced Cornering Part 3
Test Car: Toyota MR2
Time Limit: 27"000
Prerequsite: None
Parts of the Test's Areas: Into the Deep Forest's Ess before the Medium
Right before the tunnel, onto another Medium Right right after the first
tunnel, onto the second tunnel and into the finish line at Deep Forest.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Your main concern in this test is the grass on both sides of the track.
Touch the grass too long and you'll fail the test. Hit the beginning
of the Tunnel and you'll fail the test as well. Ease up on the Forest
Ess, and at the Left before the First Medium Right, brake slightly at
a straight line, and cut the apex. Brake to under 70 mph for the first
Medium Left, powerslide, and rapid-tap the pedal to maintain your speed.
Take the second Medium left with out-and-in, slowin-fastout, and cross
the finish line. Since the time limit's rather short, you need to keep
a smooth racing line for as much as you can. You may have to increase
your speed as your skills are getting better. An important rule while
trying to cut the apex during the Forest Ess: Don't touch the grass
as this is a sign that you are cutting the corners too blatantly.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
A-7: Powersliding
Test Car: Subaru Impreza
Time Limit: 33"000
Prerequsite: None
Parts of the Test's Areas: This test takes place at a specialized ring
that tests your skill in powersliding.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
No need for a lot of explanations here, since your goal is to simply
powerslide throughout this special sliding area around 5 times. Be sure
that you average about 6 seconds, and definitely take no more than 8
seconds for the first time around, and 5.5 Seconds for the remainder of
the test. Spinning-out will result in severe time loss. You should try
to powerslide all corners at all means. Failure to turn or blatant apex
cutting will result in a failed test. Try to stay centered for as much
as you can, and use a lot of rapid-tapping here. The ideal speed for
each corner would be at around 30 mph.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
A-8: Coping with Hairpins at High Speeds (Final Exam)
Test Car: Toyota Supra RZ
Time Limit: 1'08"000
Prerequsite: Must complete the first 7 A-Class Tests first
Parts of the Test's Areas: Right after the worry-aboutie Chicane, onto
the final stretch, onto the starting line, into the first hairpin
supported by the gentle left bent, onto the rough Ess Curve, and into
the final hairpin for the finish just before the two Medium Ess Curves
at Grand Valley Speedway.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
This is the most difficult among the eight A-Class Examinations because
you're required to make your entrance towards both hairpins of the Grand
Valley Speedway at speeds of up to 145mph! Also, the Toyota Supra RZ
is on the heavier side, and has a tendency to understeer, so you may have
to apply a little powersliding with rapid-gas tapping in order to
maintain your speed at the tight hairpins if you want to pass. Here are
some techniques you need to know if you want to pass, and remember, this
is a difficult test so don't get mad if you can't pass the first couple
of times.
Final stretch of Grand Valley Speedway
--------------------------------------
Stay as low as you can on these two turns, and use the Straightaway to
milk up speed.
The Gentle Left Bent and the Hairpin
------------------------------------
Stay at the right side of the track as you enter the Left Bent so you
can cut the apex at the Left Bent. Use the final stretch of the Left
Bent to prepare for the hairpin. The ideal speed for the first hairpin
is under 60 mph and over 55 mph. Brake as soon as the left bent ends,
and make sure that you keep your foot off the pedal as you brake, and
just before you get to your desired speed, turn gently so that you'll
slide. Turning too harsh while braking and accelerating will result
in a spin-out, costing precious time. Rapid-tap during the hairpin
to maintain your speed, and straighten up the car before the Ess.
The Ess
-------
Take on each of the ess out-and-in. Be careful of the Left Ess before
the straight and the tighter hairpin because you may find yourself
dizzy thereafter.
The Final Hairpin
-----------------
This hairpin is tighter than the first one. Use the Meter marks to
make yourself a good braking spot so that you can take the hairpin at
speeds of no more than 50 mph. Use out-and-in, fast-out, and cross
the finish line. Going too fast or accelerating while taking on this
hairpin results in a course-out.
This test is hectic because you have to cope with the Supra's fat and
understeer.
========================================================================
CLUBMAN CUP
Number of Tracks: 3
Laps per Track: 2
Required Class License: A-Class
Restriction of Car Type: None
Tracks involved: Autumn Ring, Clubman Stage Route 5, Trial Mountain
Pole Position Bonus: 2500 Credits
Finish First in the Track Bonus: 7000 Credits
Series Winner Bonus: 20000 Credits
Car you get for winning the race: Chevrolet Camaro Z28 30th Anniversary
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Vestiroth's note: The Clubman Cup is the next championship that you want
to participate once you have mastered all the B-Class Championship events
provided that you have obtained your A-Class License. Advanced Skills
are a must here because you're bound to meet up with even more powerful
cars than in the Sunday Cup. Something to worry about would have to be
the Trial Mountain, which is the track that really tests your racing
prowess here in Gran Turismo as a whole. I suggest that you have your
car tuned up to the max before going inside this race. Here's what my
recommended procedures would be if you are to participate in this second
level Gran Turismo League Circuit:
1. Buy a new Mitsubishi Eclipse. This is for beginners, but since
there's no car restrictions, if you already have a Skyline with
at least half-the-power of a fully-tuned Skyline GTS-R, then you
won't need the Mitsubishi Eclipse. Always use the best possible
car, and feel free to use any car you want here, albeit the car
restrictions in certain races.
2. With the Mitsubishi Eclipse, gain your potential by racing in the
Sunday Cup and on the Front Wheel Drive Special Event.
3. When you have just about enough dough, it's time to go to the Ralli
Art at Mitsubishi!
4. Here's what I want you do from this point on (Remember if you can't
afford for these parts earlier on, you can always come back later).
Keep in mind that these are only my recommendations so you should
experience with different parts throughout your gameplay. I'm
thankful to Sam Davis (
[email protected]) because I'm writing
this FAQ without my Gran Turismo Reference Guide! Please read his
Menu Translation Guide at GameFAQs.com:
* Buy the Sports Muffler
* Buy the Sports Brake Kit and Brake Balance Controller
* Buy any Turbo Kit (I do recommend Turbo Kit Level 3 but any Turbo
Kit is a must!)
* Buy the Racing Intercooler kit
* Buy the Racing Support Suspension Kit
* Buy Hard Stabilizer Kits on both sides of the car
* Buy Computer Engine Tune-up, Port Polishing, and Engine Balancing
* Buy Soft Racing Support Tires
* Buy Racing Support Gearbox, Triple Clutch, Racing Flywheel, and a
Carbon Driveshaft (if applicable)
* Undergo all stages of Weight Reduction
* Transform your Mitsubishi Eclipse into a Racing Eclipse!
Remember you can read Sam Davis's Gran Turismo Menu Translation Guide
if you need a better description of these at
http://www.gamefaqs.com.
5. At the time I first wrote this FAQ, I suggest a fully-powered,
fully-tuned Eclipse. However, feel free to experiment with any
car you want, but be sure your car is powerful enough or you won't
stand a chance. Remember this isn't Gran Turismo 2, so you can be
as unfair as you want with the exception of certain restriction of
cars that may come aloft later in the game. This is the beginner's
approach, though.
6. This portion of this work will assume that you're driving a fully
powered Mitsubishi Eclipse, extremely tuned or Racing-compliant.
Please change your strategies depending on the car that you're in.
7. When you're in a Rear-Wheel Drive Car, try not to overspin the rear
tires as this tends to be grounds to spin-out habitually. Always
ease up on turns when you're in a rear-wheel drive car.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
AUTUMN RING
Turn 1
------
This is a terrible hairpin. I would try not to slide here since I would
risk going inside the grass (something that you don't want to do anyway)
so it's important that you cut down your speed ahead of time, but beware
that the straightaway is gruesomely long so you may have to cut your
speed as soon as you see the hairpin signs. I would say about no more
than 47 mph would be a safe speed. Higher speeds are possible here, but
my experimentation is limited.
Turn 2
------
Take this turn from the out-and-in. Sliding a bit would be acceptable
as long as you don't go too fast. Please be aware that you do have to
deal with these two damn chicanes afterwards, so I wouldn't try to go
bonkers on acceleration.
Turns 3-6
---------
This is an excellent area to really mess up so make sure that you try
not to touch the grass as it will cut your speed significantly and
you may even lose control of the car. You may wish to use out-and-in
but try not to go too fast since these chicanes are rather sharp. On
the sixth turn, you should try to prepare for the seventh turn, so
don't go bonkers on accelerating. Try to keep a straight racing line
here for the best results.
Turn 7
------
Sliding is acceptable here as long as you don't go too fast and as
long as you are starting the turn from the outside. Right after this
turn, have the car straightened, and please behold of the eighth turn
since it's a hairpin, and you've arrived in a really gruesome straight.
Turn 8
------
Make sure that you slow down ahead of time or you'll be going on the
grass and possibly suffer a wall hit. Since this hairpin is really
tight, don't go any faster than 40 mph. If you have raced in the
Autumnring-Mini many times, then this should be familiar.
Turn 9
------
Take this turn from the out-and-in. Although this hairpin isn't as
severe as turns 1 or 8, you need to be watching your speed at all
costs because if you go too fast, then you'll be landing right at the
grass. I would say that about 55 mph would be a safe speed, though
I can't stress the target speed too much.
Turn 10
-------
If you are a careful driver, then you can overtake this turn at full
speed, but you may or may not need to cut your speed depending on how
early you take this turn.
Turn 11
-------
Here's a turn worth worrying about. When you see the Mazda Speed sign
hit the top of the screen, cut your speed to ~50 mph and try to keep a
smooth racing line for speed. Try not to burn the tires because this
is a place where your cornering prowess shows.
Turn 12-14
----------
Beware! These chicanes are even sharper than the chicanes carried over
from the Autumn Ring Mini Course! For control, I would slow down ahead
of time and take the left turn smoothly, and treat turns 13 and 14 as
one single turn. I would try to drift on turn 13 and 14, but this is
just an observation because you may need to adjust your technique
depending on how hot you want to take this turn.
Turn 15
-------
Yep, another sharp. I would drift from the outside and go into the
inside and by the time I finish drifting, I should have the car
straightened. When taking on this sharp, avoid contact with the grass
at the left.
Turns 16&17
-----------
This ess can be taken at full speed provided that you're a careful
driver. Please adjust your skill in this section of this FAQ if you
are just new to Autumn Ring.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
CLUBMAN STAGE ROUTE 5
Turn 1
------
I would slow down just a *bit* so I can prepare to take on Turn 2
without any braking, but you can take this turn in full speed provided
that your speed isn't exceeding the safe speed at Turn 2.
Turn 2
------
I would say that ~90 mph would be a safe speed here. You can try higher
speeds depending on the car that you are in and depending on your driving
prowess. You should try to do *controlled* braking here so you don't go
over 100 mph which seems to be unsafe for normal and modified cars.
Turn 3
------
Drift from the outside and into the inside. You should be at the right
side of the track in preparation for Turn 4, which is pretty dangerous.
Don't go bonkers accelerating here because you have Turn 4 to worry about
immediately after this turn.
Turn 4
------
You should try to cut your speed to ~60 mph here. Slow down ahead of
time and take this turn from the out-and-in. Don't slow down too late
or you may be slamming into the wall really hard.
Turn 5
------
Providing that you have taken Turn 4 smoothly, this turn can be taken
with some acceleration. If you taken Turn 4 horribly, then I don't
have a friggin' clue on how you'll be able to take this turn.
Turns 6&7
---------
This ess can be taken at full speed providing that you are turning
ahead of time and providing that you are taking the turn from the
out-and-in. Please try to keep a smooth racing line here because
this turns out to be one of the areas where beginners lose control.
Turn 8
------
Slow down ahead of time and start the turn from the right. Begin
drifting when appropriate. Try not to go bonkers sliding because
you'll slam into the wall. Don't accelerate because you have Turn
9 to deal with next.
Turn 9
------
This turn is sharper than Turn 8. As with Turn 8, take this turn
out-and-in and by drifting. You need to go slower than in Turn 9
(but not too slow that the drones are harassing you) in order to set
up
for the acceleration at the straightaway. When you overtake Turn 1
on the next lap, you need to slow down at Turn 1 so you can keep a
smooth racing line at Turn 2.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
TRIAL MOUNTAIN
I hope you hate Trial Mountain, but really, I personally hate Trial
Mountain.
Turn 1&2
--------
This ess can be taken in full speed. However, I wouldn't recommend
going faster than ~120 because the left turn is filled with a slant that
leaves a lot to be desired.
Turns 3&4
---------
Providing that you turn ahead of time, these turns can be taken at full
speed. Don't grow too overconfident because you have Turn 5 to chew at
immediately in the middle of Turn 4.
Turn 5
------
For control, I would try to slow down as early as appropriate so I don't
touch the grass after this turn. This is a devious hairpin and you
shouldn't take out this hairpin too hot. Afterwards, you will be taking
a dip as you straighten up the car.
A note from Vestiroth: Even though I touched the grass after the turn,
I've managed to get my car back into gear in preparation of Turn 6.
Turn 6
------
Slow down to ~50 mph so you can take on this sharp right without having
to touch the grass at your left. Cut your speed preferrably after the
dip (but you have to allow more time depending on what car you drive)
and take this turn from the out and in.
Turns 7&8
---------
Keep a smooth driving line because you'll be carrying more control at
Turn 9. If you slip out of control, then I don't have an idea on how
you will be taking Turn 9.
Turn 9
------
I wouldn't take this turn any faster than ~80 mph. I would take this
turn with some slight skidding. I should have the car straightened up
by the time I undertake Turn 10. Don't slow down too much here as
this turn isn't sharp as you think it's supposed to be.
Turn 10
-------
Slow down to ~80 mph just before you exit the tunnel, skid throughout
nearly all of the turn. By the time you reach the straightaway, you
should have the car straightened up. On Turn 11, you'll have to slow
down ahead of time since this straightaway is gruesomely long.
Turn 11
-------
By the time you see some sections of this turn, slow down to ~70 mph,
and try to cut the apex but don't scrape the wall. Sliding's OK as
long as you don't go too fast.
Turns 12&13
-----------
Keep a smooth driving line because you'll need the control you need
by the time you reach Turn 14, which is a deadly hairpin. Remember,
the more control you carry towards Turn 14, the better you will
corner.
Turn 14
-------
You need to be going no faster than 70 mph to avoid a possible wall
hit at the left. At the right of you is grass, which you should try
to avoid. You should try to slow down as soon as you finish Turn 13
so you won't have to worry a lot about the wall or the grass. Don't
start the turn too early or you'll lawnmown to the max.
Turn 15
-------
This is a great way to slow down ahead of time. Cut your speed to
~60 mph and start the turn from the out and take the turn from the
inside. You should have the car straightened up and you should be
back on the right by the time you are at the final stretch.
Turns 16&17
-----------
This Ess is much harder than the first Ess. You should try not to go
any faster than 110 mph. Slow down as you are getting closer to the
Ess, and try to turn ahead of time so that you don't touch the grass
on either side of the track. If you took the turns too early, then
you may be taking an unneccessary dip that may throw you out of
control.
========================================================================
GT CUP
Number of Tracks: 4
Laps per Track: 3
Required Class License: A-Class
Restriction of Car Type: No restriction on the car you want to use in
this championship.
Tracks involved: Grand Valley Speedway, Special Stage Route 5, Deep
Forest, Trial Mountain (WHY?!)
Pole Position Bonus: 5000 Credits
Finish First in the Track Bonus: 10000 Credits
Series Winner Bonus: 25000 Credits
Car you get for winning the race: A Toyota Chaser Limited Edition is
what you get for winning the series. Sell this lemon back to Toyota
because this is a car that you don't want.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Vestiroth's note: The GT Cup is the first track to feature insanely
tuned cars which can pose a threat to your domination potential if you
don't have the correct car with you. Entering this track, I'm assuming
that you *can* afford a Toyota Castrol Supra GT or a Subaru Impreza
Rally Edition. I highly recommend the Subaru Impreza Rally Edition. On
the other hand, the Subaru Impreza Rally Edition isn't good because of
its poor top speed (160 mph). If you do have one, the I would either
throw the Mitsubishi GTO Twin Turbo, a Mitsubishi GTO MR, or any car
that has enough power to maintain your domination in the game, but stable
enough to keep a smooth racing line. Why not use this series to build
up your skill in preparation of the Japanese-American Sports Car series?
The Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition remains one of my favorites in this
franchise, and I really don't know why the FTO LM was placed as a hidden
car in Gran Turismo 2. Here are the recommendations:
1. Develop your well-being even further in Gran Turismo in the Sunday
or Clubman Cup (I recommend the Clubman Cup because I'm assuming
that you *do* have the A-Class License). Gain all the skills you
want so you can take them to test in the Gran Turismo Cup.
2. I'm hoping that you have severe amount of dough in your pocket
because I'm gonna lead you to the most expensive models in the
game. Also, I'm gonna push you to severely tune up any car that
was purchased as a normal car. Ready?
3. Once you get 500,000 credits, I'm hoping that you'll shop around
for either a Toyota Castrol Supra GT, a Mitsubishi GTO Limited
Edition, a Nissan Nismo GT-R Limited Edition, a Mazda RX-7
Limited Edition, a Subaru Impreza Limited Edition (the only low
point I have of this car is its rather mediocre top speed), or
an Acura NSX-R Limited Edition GT2. If not, then look around
for a Nissan Skyline GT-R V-Spec or a Mitsubishi GTO MR_Twin
Turbo. Heavily tune them up so you can hit over 800 horses!
Now make them race-proud so you can get a loving disadvantage
against the competition! You're going to do some heavy dough
spending while trying to tune up your Nissan Skyline GT-R VSpec
and/or your Mitsubishi GTO Twin Turbo/MR, so have credits ready
to burn.
4. With these cars, get used to them by racing several times at the
Clubman Cup. Once you get used to them, it's time to blow their
poor arses away at the GT Cup.
Another Note from Vestiroth: The reason why I want you to have the
best possible cars is because I want you to have an unfair advantage
against the competition. Unfair is best. You'll notice that. :)
5. This portion of the FAQ assumes that you're using the rather
mediocre Subaru Impreza Rally Edition. Although the top speed
leaves a lot to be desired, it's still a formidable car to have.
6. You need to adjust your skills just a bit from this FAQ depending
on the car that you are riding on.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
GRAND VALLEY SPEEDWAY
Grand Valley Speedway is 15 times harder than Grand Valley East because
there's plenty sharp turns and two hairpins that compel you to slow down
as early as you can because you're bound to enter these hairpins at high
speeds. Now, as a Subaru Impreza Rally Edition driver, beginners need
some assistance in order to complete this track without heavy damage.
Turn 1
------
Being dizzy right after starting will make you uncomfortable on the
second turn, which is a hairpin. You'll want to cut your speed as soon
as you finish up taking on the gentle left so that you'll have your
speed *reasonably* reduced by the time you take on the first hairpin
turn in the track.
Turn 2
------
If you were able to cut your speed (I recommend releasing the gas pedal
and by the time you hit the *slight* straight brake to ~60 mph and do
some sliding) as you were taking on the first turn in preparation of
this hairpin, then great. If not, then be prepared to either touch
the dirt or deal with a spinout! It's important that you cut your
speed (if you're going over 120 mph at the start of Turn 1) as early
as Turn 1, and start reacting by the time you reach Turn 2 so you can
allow some room for error by the time you reach the next straight, a
gateway to a rather gruesome S-curve coming up.
Turns 3-5
---------
Although this Ess can be taken at full speed, be aware that you'll
need to probably be sliding on Turn 5 in order to avoid any unwanted
dipping and contact with the racing slant at the left or right side
of the track. If you did not turn ahead of time at Turn 5, then
you're bound to touch some grass, and eventually wind up spinning out
of control. You'll need to be in good shape when you take on a really
nasty hairpin, in the name of Turn 6.
Turn 6
------
Ancient words of wisdom: Slow down ahead of time for control. By the
start of the hairpin, your speed shouldn't be exceeding 42 mph. Take
the hairpin from the outside and slowly move to the inside, but don't
touch the slant as you'll take an unwanted dip right there. Don't let
the next straight fool you as you'll have to take on a rather *sharp*
left.
Turn 7
------
I would slide this lamer and start sliding from the outside of the
turn and work my way to the inside, making sure that my wheels are
*next* to the slant, but not touching it. I should be staying near
the leftmost side of the track when I finish this turn because Turn
8 is coming up.
Turn 8
------
As with Turn 7, I would slide and take this turn from the outside and
work my way to the inside, making sure that my wheels are near the
slant (but not touching it), and continue to stay near the rightmost
side of the track because Turn 9 is coming up, and believe me, Turn 9
is a sharp left (a carryover from the Sunday Cup and all other B-Class
Races). Turn 8 is indeed a lot deadlier than Turn 7 so you may have
to go slower on this turn as opposed to Turn 7.
Turn 9
------
Deadly Sharp Left. Before you enter this turn, make sure that you're
not going any faster than ~50 mph. Start the turn from the outside,
work your way inside. If you performed this turn correctly, then you
should *barely* miss the wall. If you took this turn lousy, then be
prepared to hit the wall or spin out. Try not to slide here because
that's where beginners tend to overspeed and overslide, causing major
spinouts and problems that may show your vulnerability towards your
opponents.
Turn 10
-------
As deadly as this painfully sharp left may seem, it seems to be a *bad*
hairpin in disguise (but shouldn't be that bad). Try to slow down as
early as you can so you don't have to overslide and spin out on this
turn. I would say that ~60 mph would be safe (safe enough to avoid the
grass at the right), though my experimentation's been limited. If you
are going too fast or skidding too sloppy, then a nice Tunnel Wall is
waiting for you at the start of Turn 11.
Turn 11
-------
If you have taken Turn 10 neatly, great. At Turn 11, don't go any
slower than 90 mph. I would slide throughout the turn and possibly
use a *little* rapid gas tapping so that I don't accelerate until
after the turn finishes and the straightaway begins. Use the straight
before Turn 12 efficiently because at Turn 12, you'll have to cut your
speed *just a little* before the straight terminates.
Turn 12
-------
Is your speed cut to ~110 by the time the turn started? Well, do some
*controlled* rapid gas tapping as the turn keeps "going and going" and
refrain from accelerating until the turn ends. Failure to do this will
result in rail contact at the left, which may damage your tires.
Turns 13 and 14
---------------
No matter what kind of Gran Turismo Player you consider yourself, this
is something to worry about in Grand Valley Speedway. Cut your speed
to ~74 mph *as* you enter the first turn. Drift throughout the first
turn using out-and-in. You should not be going over ~60 mph on average
during the first turn, although I'm saying ~74 mph (you lose speed as
you slide). On Turn 14, cut your speed to around ~50 mph, take the turn
from the out-and-in, and refrain from accelerating until after you
complete this turn. You should be at around ~40 mph by the time your
at the final stretch (You tend to lose lots of speed here, so don't go
too fast as these turns are hairpins in nature).
Turn 15
-------
The key here is to take this turn without any unneccessary slowing down
or having to touch the grass on either side. I would say that ~130 mph
with some sliding (assuming that you started turning as the turn starts)
would be safe enough to avoid the slant and grass at the left. On the
second and third lap, you'll need to be careful when taking on Turns 1
and 2 because you may be at about 175 mph (on Class A Cars) by the time
you enter this area once again. Don't act like a drunk driver in this
track because the competition's much more powerful than in the Sunday
and Clubman Cup.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
DEEP FOREST
I think Deep Forest is horrible for the following reason: GRASS AND
EVEN MORE GRASS EVERYWHERE!!!!!!!! It's important that you don't wind
up going in the grass as you will lose speed while taking a turn, so
make sure that you do your very best to avoid the grass at all costs.
Turn 1
------
Starting races with tight hairpins isn't my kind of fun. Cut your speed
during the two hairpin signs and if you don't want to skid, don't go any
faster than 60 mph, but if you want to skid, then you may want to say
about 70 mph, although my experimentation is rather limited.
Turns 2&3
---------
Keep you car under control, and definitely stay off the grass at the
left and right side of the screen because that's when your worries
begin. Turn 3 is more sarcastic than Turn 2, so you may have to slow
down at either Turn 2 or 3 to keep your car under control. However,
you will have to worry about Turn 4 because Turn 4 is a rather *sharp*
left that you have to chew on, and you got a killer tunnel coming up
</pre><pre id="faqspan-2">
just before Turn 5.
Turn 4
------
Cut your speed *immediately* after you exit Turn 3, but don't slant
the wheels to the left because you'll hit the wall and touch the grass
so make sure that you're slanting the front wheels to the right as you
prepare for this turn. You need to be going no faster than 65 mph and
you should try to drift as much as you can in order to avoid any grass
contact and possibly a hit right at the tunnel entrance wall, which
causes serious delays.
Turn 5
------
You should be ready to drift from this corner as soon as you are about
to exit the tunnel. Cut your speed *as you leave the tunnel* and drift
on this turn. I would say that 72 mph would be reasonable but you can
take this turn at higher speeds, although I don't recommend taking this
turn too hot.
Turn 6 & 7
----------
You will have yet another sharp to deal with so don't go overconfident
with the easy right. Try to slow down as early as just before the
easy right so you'll have control by the time you hit the sharp left.
You shouldn't be going any faster than roughly 50 mph by the time you
hit Turn 7. Be careful that you don't go inside the grass. By the
time you enter the interlude before Turn 8, you should have the car
straightened up.
Turn 8
------
Although this turn can be taken at full speed, I strongly recommend
that you take this turn with some *controlled* braking and steering,
just a precaution that you don't hit the wall at the right. If you
done the drifting and braking right, then you should be able to avoid
the wall at the right.
Turns 9-11
----------
This part of the track is as close as a straightaway you'll find in
this track, so use this part of the track wisely. Make sure that you
are turning *slightly* during the easy turns, making sure that you are
not hitting the walls. Turn 11 is where you should be doing the worry
abouties because you're going to face a fierce left right after the
easy right, so be sure that you're slowing down as you are about to
finish the easy right but not too early that you're losing control of
the car.
Turn 12
-------
If you have done a *controlled* slowing down as early as the conclusion
of Turn 11, then you should begin to do even more braking. You should
be drifting a little as you undertake this turn. I would say that 80
mph would be a good speed, but you need to be drifting so you can avoid
the grass at the right. Please don't accelerate until you finish taking
on this turn. If you slow down too late, then you're bound to hit walls
and mow some grass!
Turn 13
-------
Take this turn at full speed, trying to avoid the grass. By the time
you finish this turn, you don't have to worry about the grass at the
left and right side of the track anymore. JOY!
Turn 14
-------
Cut your speed to ~120 mph and I would take this turn by out-and-in, and
with heavy skidding. When you get inside of the straightaway, you need
to have the car straightened. Gotta be careful when drifting because
poor timing of taking this final turn will result in either unnecessary
dipping or grass contact, which ruins your performance greatly. I'm
trying to make sure that you're staying competitive here.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 5
Turn 1
------
Although you can take this turn in full speed, you need to start your
slowing down as early as this turn so you can take Turn 2 without having
to hit the wall, which wears out your tires. It's important that you
slow down as early as Turn 1 so you will not be hitting the tunnel wall
or slanting the car at an unnecessary position during Turn 2.
Turn 2
------
Since I'm riding on the Subaru Impreza Rally Edition, I would say that
115 mph would be a safe speed. Rapid tap the gas pedal so you don't
wind up scrapping the right wall. You might have to apply some braking
if appropriate.
Turn 3
------
Take the turn from the out-and-in. Controlled braking should keep your
car under control and prepared for Turn 4. As long as you skid, you
should not be hitting the wall. If you are inside by the time Turn 3
starts, then I don't have an idea on how you will be able to cope with
the turn.
Turn 4
------
Slow ahead of time by braking hard as the turn begins, skid as much
as you can, but don't skid too much here because Turn 5 is coming up,
and you want to take this turn as smooth as you can. I would say the
ideal speed here would be ~70 mph with some skidding, but that would
throw you at the inside by the time you reach Turn 5, so you have to
adjust your tactic on this crappy turn depending on your own personal
experience.
Turn 5
------
Providing that you have taken Turn 4 smoothly, this turn can be taken
with some acceleration. If you taken Turn 4 horribly, then I don't
have a friggin' clue on how you'll be able to take this turn.
Turns 6&7
---------
This ess can be taken at full speed providing that you are turning
ahead of time and providing that you are taking the turn from the
out-and-in. Please try to keep a smooth racing line here because
this turns out to be one of the areas where beginners lose control.
You need to be careful not to hit the railing by the time you complete
Turn 7 because if you do, then you'll be sorry.
Turns 8&9
---------
The following two turns can be taken with some controlled skidding.
You should try to brake hard ahead of time at Turn 8 so that you don't
hit the left wall. Make sure that your car is in good shape so that
you can skid Turn 9 without any problems. Taking the turns out-and-in
style is OK as long as you don't start the turn too early, which may
cause a spin-out.
Turn 10
-------
Killer Hairpin. Brake *HARD* so you can take this hairpin without
hitting the wall. Don't undertake this hairpin too early or that
mistake would mean your last. Don't skid as you may risk hitting the
wall at the right. I would say that 40 mph without skidding would be
safe. Don't use full acceleration until after you pass the hairpin.
Turn 11
-------
You may wish to accelerate in this turn, but IMHO you need to be
skidding here so you don't have to hit the wall at the left side of
the track, so be prepared to drift as you accelerate back to your
usual speed. By the time you are about to reach Turn 12, you should
have the car straightened so you can drift once again without any
trouble.
Turn 12
-------
Take this turn from the out-and-in, and drift with zest so you don't
hit the wall at the left or lose any much needed control. It's
important that you have the car straightened up by the time you meet
up with the worst area in the track--THE FINAL STRETCH!!!!
Turns 13-15
-----------
Worst part of the track. You need to slow down as early as the
painted crosswalk so you can set up for Turn 15, which is a rather
nasty right. Try not to go any faster than 60 mph on the first two
turns, and when you are about to take Turn 15, you need to be drifting
with zest and not accelerating until you have the car straightened up
but I find this part to be pretty nasty because your timing may be poor
by the time you enter this area. This part really demands good timing
and practice in order to avoid hitting the walls during the triangle.
Turn 16
-------
Pretty long Medium Right. You may need to do some skidding, or you
may not go any faster than 85 mph because this seems to be sharper than
I thought. You can skid, as long as you don't go too fast. Don't try
to accelerate until after the turn and after you have the car back to
stance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
TRIAL MOUNTAIN
You should be familiar with this course because you're actually doing a
skill transfer from the Clubman Cup to the GT Cup. The tactics you saw
on the Clubman Cup portion of this FAQ was for the Mitsubishi Eclipse.
Now you'll have to perform an extra lap, and now I'm using the Subaru
Impreza Rally Edition on this course! Entering this course, you should
be able to handle the rough turns in this course efficiently. Learn
how Trial Mountain's supposed to be done at the Clubman Cup.
Turn 1&2
--------
Take the left turn from the out and in, making sure that you're turning
ahead of time. Please be aware that you may bounce when you try to cut
the apex on the first part of the ess so be prepared to keep a firm
grip of the steering wheel. The second part of the ess can be taken at
full speed provided that you've been under control of your car at the
first part of the ess. For control, I wouldn't go any faster than ~120
mph with some *controlled* steering applied here.
Turns 3&4
---------
You should be able to take Turn 3 at full speed. However, when you
undertake Turn 4, you should try to prepare to take Turn 5 so you don't
end up hitting the wall or grass after the tunnel. Try to cut your
speed as soon as you get a fair view of the tunnel so you don't skid
too hard.
Turn 5
------
You shouldn't be going any faster than ~60 mph-~70 mph while inside the
tunnel. Be sure that you do not accelerate until after the turn. Now
I will have to warn you that *you will be taking a dip* right after
this turn so you will need to keep a firm grip of your car providing
that you finish undertaking this turn.
Turn 6
------
Don't ever, ever, ever go any faster than ~50 mph because if you do,
then you could either hit the wall or mown the grass (something that
you don't want to do). Slow down as you are taking a slight dip, then
begin drifting as soon as you get to your desired speed. Try to take
the turn from the out-and-in so you will have a great deal of speed to
chew in by the time you exit this turn. If you get inside the grass,
make sure that you get out of this grass as soon as you can. Please
don't accelerate until after the turn.
Turns 7&8
---------
You can take these turns at full speed, but make sure that you're
alert of Turn 9, which comes up shortly after this gentle ess. Cut
your speed as soon as you exit out of Turn 8.
Turn 9
------
Cut your speed to ~90 mph ahead of time and as the turn starts, you
should try to skid as much as you can during this turn (although you
shouldn't do this because you're melting the tires). Once you're in
the tunnel, you should try to prepare to undertake Turn 10 so that
you're not so wrapped up in your success of undertaking this turn.
Vestiroth: On Trial Mountain, you should not be overconfident after
you undertake any turn successfully because there's bound to be turns
following the next, which makes this course a test of racing prowess.
Turn 10
-------
Brake to no less than 80 mph and start skidding inside to the next
tunnel. Although this turn isn't difficult, you need to be sliding
and your speed must not be exceeding 85 mph by all means. Please
make sure that your taking this turn as early as possible so you'll
have some speed to chew from at the long straightaway.
Vestiroth: Trust me. You'll hate the Impreza Rally Edition for its
160 mph barrier after driving this lamer on the straight before Turn
11.
Turn 11
-------
The best time to cut your speed is when you see some sections of this
rather sharp turn. When the turn's about to start, you should be at
no more than 90 mph, skidding throughout most of the turn, and never
accelerating until after the turn. If you can go inside the yellow
OSHA lane, then it's a good thing because you're attempting to keep
a smooth racing line, something that's important in Gran Turismo.
Turns 12&13
-----------
Since you're inside a four-wheel driver, you should have no problem
keeping a smooth racing line in preparation of Turn 14. Turn 13
seems to be more dangerous than Turn 12 because the turn's sharper
than in Turn 12, but the turn shouldn't be too bad providing that
you're alert of the turn at all times.
Turn 14
-------
Ancient words of wisdom: Don't go any faster than 70 mph. Cut
your speed as soon as you finish Turn 13 (but don't brake the car
that you're slanting to the left side of the track). Cut the apex
but don't go inside the grass. Try to skid as much as you can in
this hairpin. By the time you get out of this turn, you should have
barely missed the edge of the track, and you should have the car
straightened. Don't let the straight fool you because you're about
to face yet ANOTHER HAIRPIN in the *blue*.
Turn 15
-------
You will be carrying a good amount of speed if you try to keep a smooth
line as much as you can in this turn. Try not to drift because not
only you will burn and melt the tires, but you risk going inside the
grass which you don't want to do. So keep a smooth racing line. Slow
down as soon as you see some sections of the hairpin (but don't slow
down too early). Take the turn from the outside and into the inside.
You shouldn't be going any faster than ~70 mph. By the time you exit
the turn, you should be accelerating and staying alert of the final
ess, which IMHO is the worst part of Trial Mountain.
Turns 16&17
-----------
Don't go any faster than 110 mph here. Try to cut both Esses from the
out and in, making sure that you turn ahead of time to avoid any dipping
and jumping (which is unnessary) from the brink of error. The best time
to slow down is just a *little* after you pass the tunnel. Keep the car
straight whenever you slow down because if you slant the car while you
brake, you may end up screwing up big time!
Vestiroth: This is the horrible area of the game because there's grass
on both sides of the ess, and you may take an unneccessary jump if you
go inside the grass and eventually lose control, so don't take this ess
at full speed.
========================================================================
JAPANESE AND AMERICAN CAR CHAMPIONSHIP
Number of Tracks: 5
Laps per Track: 3
Required Class License: A-Class
Restriction of Car Type: Mitsubishi, Honda, Acura, Toyota, Subaru,
Nissan, Mazda, Chevrolet, and Dodge brand cars only.
Tracks involved: Trial Mountain Reverse, Special Stage Route 5, High
Speed Ring, Grand Valley East Reverse, Special Stage Route 11
Pole Position Bonus: 5000 Credits
Finish First in the Track Bonus: 10000 Credits
Series Winner Bonus: 20000 Credits
Car you get for winning the race: Either the Mitsubishi FTO Limited
Edition or the Dodge Viper GTS-R. The Mitsubishi FTO LM is my personal
favorite. While the Dodge Viper GTS-R is a good car, as with all rear
wheel cars, you have to treat the GTS-R with a lot of respect, so the
GTS-R is not a car for beginners.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Vestiroth's note: This is a nuisance because you've got some Racing
Cars to deal with. In order to keep up with the competition, I would
really rely on a powerful Japanese Car because they seem to handle much
bettern than the Americans do. Since the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition
is my personal favorite car in the game, you will need a very powerful
car in order to dominate the series. Here's what you need to know:
1. You can either buy a Mitsubishi GTO Twinturbo, but if you already
have a Nissan Skyline, it works too. Be sure that you are only
purchasing the all-wheel drive versions of the GTO Twinturbo and
the Skylines. If you already purchased and fully modified your
Nissan Skyline, disregard these notices.
2. If you purchased the Mitsubishi GTO Twinturbo, then try to improve
your skills at the GT Cup. Hopefully, you've got a Toyota Castrol
Supra GT or a Subaru Impreza Rally Edition on your garage to
dominate the GT Cup! Use these cars to earn your dough on the GT
Cup.
3. Try to have as many credits as you can because you're going to do
some expensive tuning at the Ralli Art!
4. Here's what I want you do from this point on (Remember if you can't
afford for these parts earlier on, you can always come back later).
Keep in mind that these are only my recommendations so you should
experience with different parts throughout your gameplay. I'm
thankful to Sam Davis (
[email protected]) because I'm writing
this FAQ without my Gran Turismo Reference Guide! Please read his
Menu Translation Guide at GameFAQs.com:
* Buy the Sports Muffler
* Buy the Sports Brake Kit and Brake Balance Controller
* Buy any Turbo Kit.
* Buy the Racing Intercooler kit
* Buy the Racing Support Suspension Kit
* Buy Hard Stabilizer Kits on both sides of the car
* Buy Computer Engine Tune-up, Port Polishing, and Engine Balancing
* Buy Soft Racing Support Tires
* Buy Racing Support Gearbox, Triple Clutch, Racing Flywheel, and a
Carbon Driveshaft (if applicable)
* Undergo all stages of Weight Reduction
* Transform your Mitsubishi GTO Twinturbo into a 240 mph screamer!
Remember you can read Sam Davis's Gran Turismo Menu Translation Guide
if you need a better description of these at
http://www.gamefaqs.com.
5. From this point on, you can throw this car on any of these circuits:
- Japanese and American Car Championship
- Japanese and British Car Championship
- Megaspeed Championship
6. Hopefully, your Mitsubishi GTO Twinturbo is strong enough in this
circuit. However, if you already have a powerful Nissan Skyline
GTS-R (All-Wheel Drive), then you should use the Skyline instead.
This isn't my favorite series, but if you have a very good Japanese
car, then you should be OK.
7. This part of the FAQ assumes that you're driving a heavily-tuned,
racing-compliant Mitsubishi GTO Twin Turbo. You will need to change
your strategies a bit if you are driving other cars.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
TRIAL MOUNTAIN REVERSE
Trial Mountain Reverse is even harder than the original Trial Mountain,
and beginners will need to follow this guide in order to get away from
this track without much damage. All Country versus Country races begin
in this track, and that's one of the reasons why the series can get
bloody at times.
Turns 1 and 2
-------------
The key to success in these turns is to cut the apex as much as possible
without touching the slant and without any blatant slowdown. I would
say that 100 mph (approx) would be safe, although higher speeds may be
possible, depending on your expertise and racing prowess.
Turn 3
------
Cut your speed to around 70 mph and take this turn from the outside to
the inside. Try not to touch the slant at the right side of the track
since this makes your car unstable. You should have the car back in
straight condition when you take on Turn 4.
Turn 4
------
Do the same thing as with Turn 3, but this time around, stay off the
slant at the left side of the track, since your car may "bounce" up
and down (causing you to lose control). Sliding's acceptable, as
long as you don't turn too sloppy on this turn.
Turns 5 and 6
-------------
Try to keep a smooth racing line as much as you can to maximize speed
and make sure that you stay off the walls (since they may be a problem
to most of you). Gently turn ahead of time as each turn starts and
by the time you finish Turn 6, you should have the car in straight
standing to prepare yourself for Turn 7.
Turn 7
------
You will be able to get inside the rightmost side of the track if you
can slow down ahead of time. I would say that around 80 mph would be
safe. Make sure that you do not accelerate until after the turn.
Turn 8
------
Since I'm inside an All Wheel Drive car, I would brake while I'm inside
the tunnel, and begin turning as the tunnel ends. As with all turns,
do not accelerate until after you're confident enough that you're not
gonna be hitting any slants as you enter another tunnel. I would say
that 100 mph would be safe for this turn.
Turn 9
------
The key to undertaking this turn is to skid here without any blatant
loss of speed. I would say that just *a little* under 90 mph would be
fine to avoid hitting any wall or touching any grass, although you need
to adjust this based upon your expertise.
Turns 10 and 11
---------------
Ease up on these turns as much as you can. By the time you finish up
taking on Turn 11, you need to have your car in a straight line in order
to slow down at Turn 12, which is a deadly hairpin.
Turn 12
-------
You will carry more control if you cut your speed in a straight line,
making sure that you are not over 50 mph as you take on this turn, and
you cut the apex (while avoiding the walls, grass, and slants). Do not
accelerate until after the turn. Please be aware that Turn 13 follows
this turn almost immediately.
Turn 13
-------
You need to start drifting just before the dip. Yank the car to the
right *just right* in order to avoid hitting the slant or going off
the track. By the time you finish this turn, you should have the car
straightened and regained control of your vehicle.
Turn 14
-------
Start turning ahead of time, and move from the left side of the track
to the right side of the track. You should be careful not to hit the
slant at the right side of the track as you may take an unnecessary
dip. You will need as much control as you can when you reach Turns
15 and 16, so negotiate this turn with zest, and don't go too fast.
Turns 15 and 16
---------------
The key to success on these turns is to cut the apex of each of these
turns without any contact with the slants, and by going around 120 mph
during both of these turns. When the left turn starts, yank the wheel
gently, and when the right turn starts, you may need to apply some
braking and drift during the final turn. By the time you're ready to
cross the finish line, you should be back in control.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 5
Turn 1
------
Although you can take this turn in full speed, you need to start your
slowing down as early as this turn so you can take Turn 2 without having
to hit the wall, which wears out your tires. It's important that you
slow down as early as Turn 1 so you will not be hitting the tunnel wall
or slanting the car at an unnecessary position during Turn 2.
Turn 2
------
Since I'm riding on the Subaru Impreza Rally Edition, I would say that
115 mph would be a safe speed. Rapid tap the gas pedal so you don't
wind up scrapping the right wall. You might have to apply some braking
if appropriate.
Turn 3
------
Take the turn from the out-and-in. Controlled braking should keep your
car under control and prepared for Turn 4. As long as you skid, you
should not be hitting the wall. If you are inside by the time Turn 3
starts, then I don't have an idea on how you will be able to cope with
the turn.
Turn 4
------
Slow ahead of time by braking hard as the turn begins, skid as much
as you can, but don't skid too much here because Turn 5 is coming up,
and you want to take this turn as smooth as you can. I would say the
ideal speed here would be ~70 mph with some skidding, but that would
throw you at the inside by the time you reach Turn 5, so you have to
adjust your tactic on this crappy turn depending on your own personal
experience.
Turn 5
------
Providing that you have taken Turn 4 smoothly, this turn can be taken
with some acceleration. If you taken Turn 4 horribly, then I don't
have a friggin' clue on how you'll be able to take this turn.
Turns 6&7
---------
This ess can be taken at full speed providing that you are turning
ahead of time and providing that you are taking the turn from the
out-and-in. Please try to keep a smooth racing line here because
this turns out to be one of the areas where beginners lose control.
You need to be careful not to hit the railing by the time you complete
Turn 7 because if you do, then you'll be sorry.
Turns 8&9
---------
The following two turns can be taken with some controlled skidding.
You should try to brake hard ahead of time at Turn 8 so that you don't
hit the left wall. Make sure that your car is in good shape so that
you can skid Turn 9 without any problems. Taking the turns out-and-in
style is OK as long as you don't start the turn too early, which may
cause a spin-out.
Turn 10
-------
Killer Hairpin. Brake *HARD* so you can take this hairpin without
hitting the wall. Don't undertake this hairpin too early or that
mistake would mean your last. Don't skid as you may risk hitting the
wall at the right. I would say that 40 mph without skidding would be
safe. Don't use full acceleration until after you pass the hairpin.
Turn 11
-------
You may wish to accelerate in this turn, but IMHO you need to be
skidding here so you don't have to hit the wall at the left side of
the track, so be prepared to drift as you accelerate back to your
usual speed. By the time you are about to reach Turn 12, you should
have the car straightened so you can drift once again without any
trouble.
Turn 12
-------
Take this turn from the out-and-in, and drift with zest so you don't
hit the wall at the left or lose any much needed control. It's
important that you have the car straightened up by the time you meet
up with the worst area in the track--THE FINAL STRETCH!!!!
Turns 13-15
-----------
Worst part of the track. You need to slow down as early as the
painted crosswalk so you can set up for Turn 15, which is a rather
nasty right. Try not to go any faster than 60 mph on the first two
turns, and when you are about to take Turn 15, you need to be drifting
with zest and not accelerating until you have the car straightened up
but I find this part to be pretty nasty because your timing may be poor
by the time you enter this area. This part really demands good timing
and practice in order to avoid hitting the walls during the triangle.
Turn 16
-------
Pretty long Medium Right. You may need to do some skidding, or you
may not go any faster than 85 mph because this seems to be sharper than
I thought. You can skid, as long as you don't go too fast. Don't try
to accelerate until after the turn and after you have the car back to
stance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
HIGH SPEED RING
The High Speed Ring is an easy course to lose in if you're inside a lame
vehicle like the Honda Civic and the Chevrolet Camaro. You will need to
keep a straight racing line as much as possible so you don't fall behind
the competition who shows no mercy here because they tend to show their
prowess and if you goof up, chances are that you won't be able to win.
Advancing to the High Speed Ring, I'm assuming that you do know how to
drive a Mitsubishi GTO Twin Turbo with all the works. Learn how to
drive a heavily-chachinated Mitsubishi GTO at the Megaspeed Cup.
Turn 1
------
Take this turn at full speed. Be sure at the final stretch of the turn
that you *slightly* slow down so you don't have to worry about hitting
the wall at the right by the time the turn ends.
Turn 2
------
You may want to brake as late as possible so that you can skid here at
higher speeds. Be sure that you are taking this turn out-and-in, and
by the time you leave the turn, you should prepare for Turns 3 and 4
without much trouble. Have the car straightened.
Turns 3 and 4
-------------
You may have to do some *blatant* slow down here since these turns are
the most dangerous turns in the track. I would cut my speed to around
90 mph so I won't be touching the grass or hitting the wall. Try to
do some rapid gas tapping in this area. A feel of the gas is required
to ensure control of the Mitsubishi GTO at all costs.
Turn 5
------
Provided that you took Turns 3 and 4 without any blatant trouble, this
would be a good place to prepare for Turn 6. Stay to the right side
of the track, making sure that you *barely* miss the grass at the right
side of the track. When Turn 6 starts, you should try to slow down in
a straight line and start taking Turn 6 from the outside and into the
inside.
Turn 6
------
Provided that you have slowed down to ~120 mph, you can take this turn
without having to release the gas pedal. Make sure that you speed out
if necessary if you feel that you're going to get closer to the wall
at the right.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
GRAND VALLEY EAST REVERSE
Much bizarre than Grand Valley East, GVE Reverse provides some weird
turns, but as long as you don't overspin your tires during harsh turns,
you should be doing fine.
Turns 1 and 2
-------------
The key to taking these two turns is to control your speed without any
blatant slowdown or wheelspin. A reasonable speed here would be 100
mph
(my experimentation here is rather limited, so bear with me) with
some skidding, but you will need to have the car straightened up just
before you take on Turn 3.
Turn 3
------
This turn is pretty damn sharp, so it's important that you slow down
to about 80 mph just before the turn starts so you can cut the apex
of the turn. You may want to experiment with some sliding here, but
you need to adjust this strategy depending on your experience.
Turns 4 and 5
-------------
No blatant slowing down allowed. Try to maintain high speed without
wheelspin or blatant skidding. The key here would be to start these
turns as early as you can so you maintain your out-and-in routine.
Turn 6
------
Turn 6 is where beginners tend to bite the dust. Cut your speed to
*below* 50 mph just before the Tunnel terminates. When the turn
begins, you should try to cut the apex as much as you can, but don't
hit the wall at the right or you may overspin the rear tires.
Sliding's acceptable as long as you don't overdo it.
Turn 7
------
The key to taking this turn would be to cut the apex without using
the brakes too much and with a good feel of the gas pedal. Stay
inside of the track for as much as you can, making sure that your
wheels are touching the slant, *barely* missing the grass.
Turns 8 and 9
-------------
Keep a smooth racing line at all times. You can go full speed at
Turn 8, but you may have to do some skidding (be sure to turn before
the turn starts) on Turn 9. Here, the key is to maintain a high
speed without any speed loss and without too much skidding. A good
feel of the gas pedal, brake, and wheel will allow you to smoothen
up your racing line for speed in this area.
Turn 10
-------
Cut your speed to 60 mph just before the turn begins. Brake at a
straight line for control, and begin turning when you are comfy
enough. Don't overdo your drift as you may overspin your rear
wheels. The key here is to drift to the inside of this turn without
any wheelspin. You may have to speed out during this turn whenever
appropriate for your safety.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 11
Special Stage Route 11 is where the championship is decided at. There
tends to be underclassmen who will score more points than in the other
tracks if you underestimate them, so you have to make sure that you
are not taking any turns too harsh because all of them are blind.
Learn this track at the Front-Engine, Front-Drive Car Championships.
Turn 1
------
This turn can be taken at full speed. Just don't get so greedy in the
turn that you forget turning in the second turn.
Turn 2
------
Slow down from the outside. Then as the turn begins, slide throughout
most of the turn (although you may have to hit the wall, it takes
practice to avoid the wall in this course since Special Stage Route 11
is laden with sharps). Don't be starting the turn too early as you
may hit the right wall. Be sure that you drift here so that you can
maintain your speed.
Turns 3 and 4
-------------
It may be *necessary* (but shouldn't be that bad) to slow down, but
don't do too much slowing down as you may risk spinning the rear
wheels blatantly. Do a slide and you'll be risking hitting a wall
at the left or hitting the gas canisters just before Turns 5 and 6.
The key to undertaking this turn would be to take this turn with the
smoothest possible line without slowing down too much and without
any blatant skidding. Try not to do too much slowing down since
you're inside an AWD Vehicle.
Turns 5 and 6
-------------
Try to skid both turns, and make sure that you are not going too fast
on these turns, since you are in risk of spinning out the rear tires.
Have the car straightened as you complete a sharp. Watch out for the
slant just before Turn 6 starts. Skid through Turn 6, and then get
ready for Turn 7, which is a hairpin.
Turn 7
------
Try to slow down just as the turn starts so you can skid through this
killer hairpin. Slide throughout the turn and don't accelerate until
you're confident that you won't spin out and that you will not hit the
wall at the left. You can hug the left wall as you take on this turn
for increased speed, but that takes too much timing, and it's rather
dangerous since you're wearing your left tires.
Turns 8 and 9
-------------
Turn 8 can be taken at full speed. Turn 9 is a sharp left that you will
have to slow down just before the turn starts so that you can drift
throughout most of the turn. Be sure that you are not drifting this
turn too hot as this will result in a spinout. You can hug the right
wall in order to take this turn with increased speed, but that's rather
dangerous since you risk wearing out the right tires trying to cheat.
Turns 10-13
-----------
One of my least favorite areas. You may want to cut your speed to
around 80 mph so you don't end up hitting the wall. Don't get into a
bad skid here as you will need every inch of control in order to make
through this corridor without hitting the wall. Keep a smooth racing
line right here.
Turns 14 and 15
---------------
These turns can be taken at full speed, but you need to use Turn 15
and the *slight* straightaway in order to prepare for Turns 16 and 17,
which comes in *just about* immediately, so you will need the car
straightened up in preparation for speed reduction for the next chicane.
Turns 16 and 17
---------------
If you used the brake while on a lousy position (from Turns 14 and 15),
then you're in for a spinout. Keep the car running straight, release
the gas pedal, and at around 40-50 mph, I would take on the first half
of the chicane from the out and in but I have to immediately swerve my
car to the left because I'm in for the next chicane. By the time I
turn at Turn 18, I should *be able* to have the car straightened up and
ready to drift at the next medium or sharp left.
Turn 18
-------
A good feel of the gas and pedal is required here. The key to passing
this turn is to keep a smooth racing line with a good feel of the gas
pedal without any blatant slowing down or any unnecessary drifting here.
Apex cutting is acceptable, as long as you are not sloppy taking it.
Turn 19
-------
There's some easy slants just before this painful hairpin. You may
wish to do the "Cheating Bastard" maneuver by leaning at the outside of
the track and then with zest timing lean to the right *just right* and
pedal to the metal. You must time your wheel yanks correctly in order
to cheat on this hairpin. However, you risk having to wear out your
tires and may face a possible spinout by all means, so an alternative
to the Cheating Bastard maneuver (BTW it's Jaz Rignall of PSM Online
who came up with the idea of the Cheating Bastard), brake as the left
slant concludes *hard*, and yank the car to the right. Be sure that
you have the car counterbanked and straightened by the time you start
Turns 20 and 21.
Turns 20 and 21
---------------
I would treat these two sharps as one turn. Time your drift so that
you just *hit* the right wall and that you can have room to straight
en
up your car by the time Turn 22 (hairpin) begins. A bad drift or a
sloppy undertake would result in the competition catching up with you.
Turn 22
-------
Here, the Cheating Bastard maneuver works here, but it's easier to do
the Cheating Bastard maneuver in this hairpin than in Turn 19 because
you don't have to contend with some slants before the hairpin. This
applies to the first hairpin just before the tunnel. As the right
hairpin starts, go way outside, and with zest timing, turn right just
right, and pedal to the metal. Becoming a cheating bastard takes time
because you need the right timing in order to take on the hairpin at
dangerous speeds (Once again, Jaz Rignall of
http://www.psmonline.com)
but it's easier to do with the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition since
All Wheel Drive improves your timing a *little* bit.
Turns 23 and 24
---------------
You need to slow down to under 45 mph when you see sections of Turn 23
in order to avoid sloppy screwups. Brake from the left side of the
track and as you see sections of Turn 23, brake *hard* and as Turn 23
begins, keep a smooth racing line. A good feel of the gas, brakes, and
the steering wheel is required.
Turn 25
-------
Keep your speed to around 100 mph at this final turn. Speed out from
the turn if you are going to get closer to the left wall. A good feel
of the gas and the pedal is required here.
========================================================================
JAPANESE AND BRITISH CAR CHAMPIONSHIP
Number of Tracks: 5
Laps per Track: 3
Required Class License: A-Class
Restriction of Car Type: Mitsubishi, Honda, Acura, Toyota, Subaru,
Nissan, Mazda, Aston Martin, and TVR brand cars only.
Tracks involved: Trial Mountain Reverse, Special Stage Route 5, High
Speed Ring, Grand Valley East Reverse, Special Stage Route 11
Pole Position Bonus: 5000 Credits
Finish First in the Track Bonus: 10000 Credits
Series Winner Bonus: 20000 Credits
Car you get for winning the race: Either the Honda Civic Del Sol LM
(Mid-Engine, Rear Drive, my least favorite car), or a TVR Cerbera LM.
Don't enter the American-British Racing Series until you get the Cerbera
LM. Neither LMs are my favorites.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Vestiroth's note: All of these nation versus nation sports car series
are identical, but since I'm a rather tight strategist, I'm gonna base
sections of this FAQ based upon the car I drive. Here's what you need
to do before getting inside the Japanese and British Car Championship:
1. Buy a new Mitsubishi GTO Twinturbo. I like All-Wheel Drive cars.
You may think that I'm out of this world because I'm telling you
these $#!^ notes, but hey, I want you to dominate the series as
much as I want you to.
2. Improve your skills at the GT Cup. Hopefully, you've got a Toyota
Castrol Supra GT or a Subaru Impreza Rally Edition on your garage
to dominate the GT Cup! Use these cars to earn your dough on the
GT Cup.
3. Try to have as many credits as you can because you're going to do
some expensive tuning at the Ralli Art!
4. Here's what I want you do from this point on (Remember if you can't
afford for these parts earlier on, you can always come back later).
Keep in mind that these are only my recommendations so you should
experience with different parts throughout your gameplay. I'm
thankful to Sam Davis (
[email protected]) because I'm writing
this FAQ without my Gran Turismo Reference Guide! Please read his
Menu Translation Guide at GameFAQs.com:
* Buy the Sports Muffler
* Buy the Sports Brake Kit and Brake Balance Controller
* Buy any Turbo Kit.
* Buy the Racing Intercooler kit
* Buy the Racing Support Suspension Kit
* Buy Hard Stabilizer Kits on both sides of the car
* Buy Computer Engine Tune-up, Port Polishing, and Engine Balancing
* Buy Soft Racing Support Tires
* Buy Racing Support Gearbox, Triple Clutch, Racing Flywheel, and a
Carbon Driveshaft (if applicable)
* Undergo all stages of Weight Reduction
* Transform your Mitsubishi GTO Twinturbo into a 240 mph screamer!
Remember you can read Sam Davis's Gran Turismo Menu Translation Guide
if you need a better description of these at
http://www.gamefaqs.com.
5. From this point, you should be practicing dominating the Megaspeed
championships because you should be able to have a heavily-tuned,
racing-modified Mitsubishi GTO TwinTurbo. I reached 242 mph on the
Test Course during the Megaspeed Championship. How about that?
6. Once you got used to the Mitsubishi GTO Twin Turbo long enough,
throw this car in the Japanese and American Car championships, and
laugh hard by dominating the series. You should be able to Pole
Position on all five courses, and you should place 1st on all the
five courses, and your car should be powerful enough to overwhelm
the Subaru Impreza Rally Edition, which is a key concern in the
Japanese and American Sports Car Championships.
7. If you can win the Japanese and American Car series, you should
receive a Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition. It's an All-Wheel Drive
racer, but it's easier to control and handle than the seemingly
hard-to-get-used-to GTO Twinturbo.
8. This part of the FAQ assumes that you're driving a heavily-tuned,
racing-compliant Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition. You will need to
change your strategies a bit if you are driving other cars.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
TRIAL MOUNTAIN REVERSE
With the Mitsubishi FTO in your possesion, you should be able to take
on Trial Mountain Reverse without any problems (as opposed to the GTO
Twin Turbo undergoing lots of mods and Castrol Stickers). You still
need to utilize all of your driving potential here in order to fry the
competition to a crisp, though.
Turns 1 and 2
-------------
The key to success in these turns is to cut the apex as much as possible
without touching the slant and without any blatant slowdown. I would
say that 100 mph (approx) would be safe, although higher speeds may be
possible, depending on your expertise and racing prowess.
Turn 3
------
Cut your speed to around 70 mph and take this turn from the outside to
the inside. Try not to touch the slant at the right side of the track
since this makes your car unstable. You should have the car back in
straight condition when you take on Turn 4.
Turn 4
------
Do the same thing as with Turn 3, but this time around, stay off the
slant at the left side of the track, since your car may "bounce" up
and down (causing you to lose control). Sliding's acceptable, as
long as you don't turn too sloppy on this turn.
Turns 5 and 6
-------------
Try to keep a smooth racing line as much as you can to maximize speed
and make sure that you stay off the walls (since they may be a problem
to most of you). Gently turn ahead of time as each turn starts and
by the time you finish Turn 6, you should have the car in straight
standing to prepare yourself for Turn 7.
Turn 7
------
You will be able to get inside the rightmost side of the track if you
can slow down ahead of time. I would say that around 80 mph would be
safe. Make sure that you do not accelerate until after the turn.
Turn 8
------
Since I'm inside an All Wheel Drive car, I would brake while I'm inside
the tunnel, and begin turning as the tunnel ends. As with all turns,
do not accelerate until after you're confident enough that you're not
gonna be hitting any slants as you enter another tunnel. I would say
that 100 mph would be safe for this turn.
Turn 9
------
The key to undertaking this turn is to skid here without any blatant
loss of speed. I would say that just *a little* under 90 mph would be
fine to avoid hitting any wall or touching any grass, although you need
to adjust this based upon your expertise.
Turns 10 and 11
---------------
Ease up on these turns as much as you can. By the time you finish up
taking on Turn 11, you need to have your car in a straight line in order
to slow down at Turn 12, which is a deadly hairpin.
Turn 12
-------
You will carry more control if you cut your speed in a straight line,
making sure that you are not over 50 mph as you take on this turn, and
you cut the apex (while avoiding the walls, grass, and slants). Do not
accelerate until after the turn. Please be aware that Turn 13 follows
this turn almost immediately.
Turn 13
-------
You need to start drifting just before the dip. Yank the car to the
right *just right* in order to avoid hitting the slant or going off
the track. By the time you finish this turn, you should have the car
straightened and regained control of your vehicle.
Turn 14
-------
Start turning ahead of time, and move from the left side of the track
to the right side of the track. You should be careful not to hit the
slant at the right side of the track as you may take an unnecessary
dip. You will need as much control as you can when you reach Turns
15 and 16, so negotiate this turn with zest, and don't go too fast.
Turns 15 and 16
---------------
The key to success on these turns is to cut the apex of each of these
turns without any contact with the slants, and by going around 120 mph
during both of these turns. When the left turn starts, yank the wheel
gently, and when the right turn starts, you may need to apply some
braking and drift during the final turn. By the time you're ready to
cross the finish line, you should be back in control.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 5
Turn 1
------
Although you can take this turn in full speed, you need to start your
slowing down as early as this turn so you can take Turn 2 without having
to hit the wall, which wears out your tires. It's important that you
slow down as early as Turn 1 so you will not be hitting the tunnel wall
or slanting the car at an unnecessary position during Turn 2.
Turn 2
------
Since I'm riding on the Subaru Impreza Rally Edition, I would say that
115 mph would be a safe speed. Rapid tap the gas pedal so you don't
wind up scrapping the right wall. You might have to apply some braking
if appropriate.
Turn 3
------
Take the turn from the out-and-in. Controlled braking should keep your
car under control and prepared for Turn 4. As long as you skid, you
should not be hitting the wall. If you are inside by the time Turn 3
starts, then I don't have an idea on how you will be able to cope with
the turn.
Turn 4
------
Slow ahead of time by braking hard as the turn begins, skid as much
as you can, but don't skid too much here because Turn 5 is coming up,
and you want to take this turn as smooth as you can. I would say the
ideal speed here would be ~70 mph with some skidding, but that would
throw you at the inside by the time you reach Turn 5, so you have to
adjust your tactic on this crappy turn depending on your own personal
experience.
Turn 5
------
Providing that you have taken Turn 4 smoothly, this turn can be taken
with some acceleration. If you taken Turn 4 horribly, then I don't
have a friggin' clue on how you'll be able to take this turn.
Turns 6&7
---------
This ess can be taken at full speed providing that you are turning
ahead of time and providing that you are taking the turn from the
out-and-in. Please try to keep a smooth racing line here because
this turns out to be one of the areas where beginners lose control.
You need to be careful not to hit the railing by the time you complete
Turn 7 because if you do, then you'll be sorry.
Turns 8&9
---------
The following two turns can be taken with some controlled skidding.
You should try to brake hard ahead of time at Turn 8 so that you don't
hit the left wall. Make sure that your car is in good shape so that
you can skid Turn 9 without any problems. Taking the turns out-and-in
style is OK as long as you don't start the turn too early, which may
cause a spin-out.
Turn 10
-------
Killer Hairpin. Brake *HARD* so you can take this hairpin without
hitting the wall. Don't undertake this hairpin too early or that
mistake would mean your last. Don't skid as you may risk hitting the
wall at the right. I would say that 40 mph without skidding would be
safe. Don't use full acceleration until after you pass the hairpin.
Turn 11
-------
You may wish to accelerate in this turn, but IMHO you need to be
skidding here so you don't have to hit the wall at the left side of
the track, so be prepared to drift as you accelerate back to your
usual speed. By the time you are about to reach Turn 12, you should
have the car straightened so you can drift once again without any
trouble.
Turn 12
-------
Take this turn from the out-and-in, and drift with zest so you don't
hit the wall at the left or lose any much needed control. It's
important that you have the car straightened up by the time you meet
up with the worst area in the track--THE FINAL STRETCH!!!!
Turns 13-15
-----------
Worst part of the track. You need to slow down as early as the
painted crosswalk so you can set up for Turn 15, which is a rather
nasty right. Try not to go any faster than 60 mph on the first two
turns, and when you are about to take Turn 15, you need to be drifting
</pre><pre id="faqspan-3">
with zest and not accelerating until you have the car straightened up
but I find this part to be pretty nasty because your timing may be poor
by the time you enter this area. This part really demands good timing
and practice in order to avoid hitting the walls during the triangle.
Turn 16
-------
Pretty long Medium Right. You may need to do some skidding, or you
may not go any faster than 85 mph because this seems to be sharper than
I thought. You can skid, as long as you don't go too fast. Don't try
to accelerate until after the turn and after you have the car back to
stance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
HIGH SPEED RING
Although this seems to be a terrible course for you to enter (mainly
because some of the British Cars tend to pose a higher threat level than
they do in the other tracks), you can Pole Position and win the track
if you are a skilled TVR Cerbera Limited Edition driver or if you took
the time to make the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition your slave. Taking
turns smoothly and avoiding any blatant skidding will ensure that no one
will oppose your racing authority during this course.
Turn 1
------
Take this turn at full speed. Be sure at the final stretch of the turn
that you *slightly* slow down so you don't have to worry about hitting
the wall at the right by the time the turn ends.
Turn 2
------
You may want to brake as late as possible so that you can skid here at
higher speeds. Be sure that you are taking this turn out-and-in, and
by the time you leave the turn, you should prepare for Turns 3 and 4
without much trouble. Have the car straightened.
Turns 3 and 4
-------------
You may have to do some *blatant* slow down here since these turns are
the most dangerous turns in the track. I would cut my speed to around
90 mph so I won't be touching the grass or hitting the wall. Try to
do some rapid gas tapping in this area. A feel of the gas is required
to ensure control of the Mitsubishi GTO at all costs.
Turn 5
------
Provided that you took Turns 3 and 4 without any blatant trouble, this
would be a good place to prepare for Turn 6. Stay to the right side
of the track, making sure that you *barely* miss the grass at the right
side of the track. When Turn 6 starts, you should try to slow down in
a straight line and start taking Turn 6 from the outside and into the
inside.
Turn 6
------
Provided that you have slowed down to ~120 mph, you can take this turn
without having to release the gas pedal. Make sure that you speed out
if necessary if you feel that you're going to get closer to the wall
at the right.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
GRAND VALLEY EAST REVERSE
Much bizarre than Grand Valley East, GVE Reverse provides some weird
turns, but as long as you don't overspin your tires during harsh turns,
you should be doing fine.
Turns 1 and 2
-------------
The key to taking these two turns is to control your speed without any
blatant slowdown or wheelspin. A reasonable speed here would be 100
mph
(my experimentation here is rather limited, so bear with me) with
some
skidding, but you will need to have the car straightened up just
before you take on Turn 3.
Turn 3
------
This turn is pretty damn sharp, so it's important that you slow down
to about 80 mph just before the turn starts so you can cut the apex
of the turn. You may want to experiment with some sliding here, but
you need to adjust this strategy depending on your experience.
Turns 4 and 5
-------------
No blatant slowing down allowed. Try to maintain high speed without
wheelspin or blatant skidding. The key here would be to start these
turns as early as you can so you maintain your out-and-in routine.
Turn 6
------
Turn 6 is where beginners tend to bite the dust. Cut your speed to
*below* 50 mph just before the Tunnel terminates. When the turn
begins, you should try to cut the apex as much as you can, but don't
hit the wall at the right or you may overspin the rear tires.
Sliding's acceptable as long as you don't overdo it.
Turn 7
------
The key to taking this turn would be to cut the apex without using
the brakes too much and with a good feel of the gas pedal. Stay
inside of the track for as much as you can, making sure that your
wheels are touching the slant, *barely* missing the grass.
Turns 8 and 9
-------------
Keep a smooth racing line at all times. You can go full speed at
Turn 8, but you may have to do some skidding (be sure to turn before
the turn starts) on Turn 9. Here, the key is to maintain a high
speed without any speed loss and without too much skidding. A good
feel of the gas pedal, brake, and wheel will allow you to smoothen
up your racing line for speed in this area.
Turn 10
-------
Cut your speed to 60 mph just before the turn begins. Brake at a
s
traight line for control, and begin turning when you are comfy
enough. Don't overdo your drift as you may overspin your rear
wheels. The key here is to drift to the inside of this turn without
any wheelspin. You may have to speed out during this turn whenever
appropriate for your safety.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 11
If there's a track that will push me to use the Mitsubishi FTO Limited
Edition for the Japanese and British Car Championships, then it would
be this course. It's array of blind turns, tight curves, and bizarre
corridors makes this track reserved for All Wheel Drive cars only.
Turn 1
------
This turn can be taken at full speed. Just don't get so greedy in the
turn that you forget turning in the second turn.
Turn 2
------
Slow down from the outside. Then as the turn begins, slide throughout
most of the turn (although you may have to hit the wall, it takes
practice to avoid the wall in this course since Special Stage Route 11
is laden with sharps). Don't be starting the turn too early as you
may hit the right wall. Be sure that you drift here so that you can
maintain your speed.
Turns 3 and 4
-------------
It may be *necessary* (but shouldn't be that bad) to slow down, but
don't do too much slowing down as you may risk spinning the rear
wheels blatantly. Do a slide and you'll be risking hitting a wall
at the left or hitting the gas canisters just before Turns 5 and 6.
The key to undertaking this turn would be to take this turn with the
smoothest possible line without slowing down too much and without
any blatant skidding. Try not to do too much slowing down since
you're inside an AWD Vehicle.
Turns 5 and 6
-------------
Try to skid both turns, and make sure that you are not going too fast
on these turns, since you are in risk of spinning out the rear tires.
Have the car straightened as you complete a sharp. Watch out for the
slant just before Turn 6 starts. Skid through Turn 6, and then get
ready for Turn 7, which is a hairpin.
Turn 7
------
Try to slow down just as the turn starts so you can skid through this
killer hairpin. Slide throughout the turn and don't accelerate until
you're confident that you won't spin out and that you will not hit the
wall at the left. You can hug the left wall as you take on this turn
for increased speed, but that takes too much timing, and it's rather
dangerous since you're wearing your left tires.
Turns 8 and 9
-------------
Turn 8 can be taken at full speed. Turn 9 is a sharp left that you will
have to slow down just before the turn starts so that you can drift
throughout most of the turn. Be sure that you are not drifting this
turn too hot as this will result in a spinout. You can hug the right
wall in order to take this turn with increased speed, but that's rather
dangerous since you risk wearing out the right tires trying to cheat.
Turns 10-13
-----------
You may want to cut your speed to around 80 mph so you don't end up
hitting the wall. Don't get into a bad skid here as you will need
every inch of control in order to make through this corridor without
hitting the wall. Keep a smooth racing line right here. One of my least
favorite corridors.
Turns 14 and 15
---------------
These turns can be taken at full speed, but you need to use Turn 15
and the *slight* straightaway in order to prepare for Turns 16 and 17,
which comes in *just about* immediately, so you will need the car
straightened up in preparation for speed reduction for the next chicane.
Turns 16 and 17
---------------
If you used the brake while on a lousy position (from Turns 14 and 15),
then you're in for a spinout. Keep the car running straight, release
the gas pedal, and at around 40-50 mph, I would take on the first half
of the chicane from the out and in but I have to immediately swerve my
car to the left because I'm in for the next chicane. By the time I
turn at Turn 18, I should *be able* to have the car straightened up and
ready to drift at the next medium or sharp left.
Turn 18
-------
A good feel of the gas and pedal is required here. The key to passing
this turn is to keep a smooth racing line with a good feel of the gas
pedal without any blatant slowing down or any unnecessary drifting here.
Apex cutting is acceptable, as long as you are not sloppy taking it.
Turn 19
-------
There's some easy slants just before this painful hairpin. You may
wish to do the "Cheating Bastard" maneuver by leaning at the outside of
the track and then with zest timing lean to the right *just right* and
pedal to the metal. You must time your wheel yanks correctly in order
to cheat on this hairpin. However, you risk having to wear out your
tires and may face a possible spinout by all means, so an alternative
to the Cheating Bastard maneuver (BTW it's Jaz Rignall of PSM Online
who came up with the idea of the Cheating Bastard), brake as the left
slant concludes *hard*, and yank the car to the right. Be sure that
you have the car counterbanked and straightened by the time you start
Turns 20 and 21.
Turns 20 and 21
---------------
I would treat these two sharps as one turn. Time your drift so that
you just *hit* the right wall and that you can have room to straighten
up your car by the time Turn 22 (hairpin) begins. A bad drift or a
sloppy undertake would result in the competition catching up with you.
Turn 22
-------
Here, the Cheating Bastard maneuver works here, but it's easier to do
the Cheating Bastard maneuver in this hairpin than in Turn 19 because
you don't have to contend with some slants before the hairpin. This
applies to the first hairpin just before the tunnel. As the right
hairpin starts, go way outside, and with zest timing, turn right just
right, and pedal to the metal. Becoming a cheating bastard takes time
because you need the right timing in order to take on the hairpin at
dangerous speeds (Once again, Jaz Rignall of
http://www.psmonline.com)
but it's easier to do with the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition since
All Wheel Drive improves your timing a *little* bit.
Turns 23 and 24
---------------
You need to slow down to under 45 mph when you see sections of Turn 23
in order to avoid sloppy screwups. Brake from the left side of the
track and as you see sections of Turn 23, brake *hard* and as Turn 23
begins, keep a smooth racing line. A good feel of the gas, brakes, and
the steering wheel is required.
Turn 25
-------
Keep your speed to around 100 mph at this final turn. Speed out from
the turn if you are going to get closer to the left wall. A good feel
of the gas and the pedal is required here.
========================================================================
AMERICAN AND BRITISH CAR CHAMPIONSHIP
Number of Tracks: 5
Laps per Track: 3
Required Class License: A-Class
Restriction of Car Type: Dodge, Chevrolet, TVR, and Aston Martin brand
cars only.
Tracks involved: Trial Mountain Reverse, Special Stage Route 5, High
Speed Ring, Grand Valley East Reverse, Special Stage Route 11
Pole Position Bonus: 5000 Credits
Finish First in the Track Bonus: 10000 Credits
Series Winner Bonus: 20000 Credits
Car you get for winning the race: Either the Mazda RX-7 A-Spec Limited
Edition or the Racing Concept Car. Both of these cars are my most hated
cars. The Concept Car remains on my most hated list. Too hard to control.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Vestiroth's note: This is IMHO the worst among the nation versus nation
sport car series because you're only allowed to use American and British
cars, all which are rear-wheel drive cars. Since you're bound to lose
some fire on this series (because you're bound to hit some walls or spin
out as you learn how to dominate this course), I have tried to mix a
good blend of speed and handling as much as I can. You need to place
first on four out of 5 courses in order to win. You may wind up losing
on Special Stage Route 11 because this course tests your ability to be
a competent driver rather than on speed. In order to make sure that
you PLACE FIRST IN AT LEAST the Trial Mountain Reverse, Special Stage
Route 5, High Speed Ring, and the Grand Valley East Reverse. I really
can't recommend going on this course unless you have the TVR Cerbera
LM with you. This is NOT my favorite series at all.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
TRIAL MOUNTAIN REVERSE
I have no clue on how you will be able to beat this track since you are
inside either a Dodge Viper or a TVR Cerbera Limited Edition. You need
to slow down ahead of time to avoid any sloppy skidding or overspin of
the rear tires to stay within the competition. Like I said, this is one
of my turn-offs in all of Gran Turismo.
Turns 1 and 2
-------------
The key to success in these turns is to cut the apex as much as possible
without touching the slant and without any blatant slowdown. I would
say that 100 mph (approx) would be safe, although higher speeds may be
possible, depending on your expertise and racing prowess.
Turn 3
------
Cut your speed to around 70 mph and take this turn from the outside to
the inside. Try not to touch the slant at the right side of the track
since this makes your car unstable. You should have the car back in
straight condition when you take on Turn 4.
Turn 4
------
Do the same thing as with Turn 3, but this time around, stay off the
slant at the left side of the track, since your car may "bounce" up
and down (causing you to lose control). Sliding's acceptable, as
long as you don't turn too sloppy on this turn.
Turns 5 and 6
-------------
Try to keep a smooth racing line as much as you can to maximize speed
and make sure that you stay off the walls (since they may be a problem
to most of you). Gently turn ahead of time as each turn starts and
by the time you finish Turn 6, you should have the car in straight
standing to prepare yourself for Turn 7.
Turn 7
------
You will be able to get inside the rightmost side of the track if you
can slow down ahead of time. I would say that around 80 mph would be
safe. Make sure that you do not accelerate until after the turn.
Turn 8
------
Since I'm inside an All Wheel Drive car, I would brake while I'm inside
the tunnel, and begin turning as the tunnel ends. As with all turns,
do not accelerate until after you're confident enough that you're not
gonna be hitting any slants as you enter another tunnel. I would say
that 100 mph would be safe for this turn.
Turn 9
------
The key to undertaking this turn is to skid here without any blatant
loss of speed. I would say that just *a little* under 90 mph would be
fine to avoid hitting any wall or touching any grass, although you need
to adjust this based upon your expertise.
Turns 10 and 11
---------------
Ease up on these turns as much as you can. By the time you finish up
taking on Turn 11, you need to have your car in a straight line in order
to slow down at Turn 12, which is a deadly hairpin.
Turn 12
-------
You will carry more control if you cut your speed in a straight line,
making sure that you are not over 50 mph as you take on this turn, and
you cut the apex (while avoiding the walls, grass, and slants). Do not
accelerate until after the turn. Please be aware that Turn 13 follows
this turn almost immediately.
Turn 13
-------
You need to start drifting just before the dip. Yank the car to the
right *just right* in order to avoid hitting the slant or going off
the track. By the time you finish this turn, you should have the car
straightened and regained control of your vehicle.
Turn 14
-------
Start turning ahead of time, and move from the left side of the track
to the right side of the track. You should be careful not to hit the
slant at the right side of the track as you may take an unnecessary
dip. You will need as much control as you can when you reach Turns
15 and 16, so negotiate this turn with zest, and don't go too fast.
Turns 15 and 16
---------------
The key to success on these turns is to cut the apex of each of these
turns without any contact with the slants, and by going around 120 mph
during both of these turns. When the left turn starts, yank the wheel
gently, and when the right turn starts, you may need to apply some
braking and drift during the final turn. By the time you're ready to
cross the finish line, you should be back in control.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 5
Turn 1
------
Although you can take this turn in full speed, you need to start your
slowing down as early as this turn so you can take Turn 2 without having
to hit the wall, which wears out your tires. It's important that you
slow down as early as Turn 1 so you will not be hitting the tunnel wall
or slanting the car at an unnecessary position during Turn 2.
Turn 2
------
Since I'm riding on the Subaru Impreza Rally Edition, I would say that
115 mph would be a safe speed. Rapid tap the gas pedal so you don't
wind up scrapping the right wall. You might have to apply some braking
if appropriate.
Turn 3
------
Take the turn from the out-and-in. Controlled braking should keep your
car under control and prepared for Turn 4. As long as you skid, you
should not be hitting the wall. If you are inside by the time Turn 3
starts, then I don't have an idea on how you will be able to cope with
the turn.
Turn 4
------
Slow ahead of time by braking hard as the turn begins, skid as much
as you can, but don't skid too much here because Turn 5 is coming up,
and you want to take this turn as smooth as you can. I would say the
ideal speed here would be ~70 mph with some skidding, but that would
throw you at the inside by the time you reach Turn 5, so you have to
adjust your tactic on this crappy turn depending on your own personal
experience.
Turn 5
------
Providing that you have taken Turn 4 smoothly, this turn can be taken
with some acceleration. If you taken Turn 4 horribly, then I don't
have a friggin' clue on how you'll be able to take this turn.
Turns 6&7
---------
This ess can be taken at full speed providing that you are turning
ahead of time and providing that you are taking the turn from the
out-and-in. Please try to keep a smooth racing line here because
this turns out to be one of the areas where beginners lose control.
You need to be careful not to hit the railing by the time you complete
Turn 7 because if you do, then you'll be sorry.
Turns 8&9
---------
The following two turns can be taken with some controlled skidding.
You should try to brake hard ahead of time at Turn 8 so that you don't
hit the left wall. Make sure that your car is in good shape so that
you can skid Turn 9 without any problems. Taking the turns out-and-in
style is OK as long as you don't start the turn too early, which may
cause a spin-out.
Turn 10
-------
Killer Hairpin. Brake *HARD* so you can take this hairpin without
hitting the wall. Don't undertake this hairpin too early or that
mistake would mean your last. Don't skid as you may risk hitting the
wall at the right. I would say that 40 mph without skidding would be
safe. Don't use full acceleration until after you pass the hairpin.
Turn 11
-------
You may wish to accelerate in this turn, but IMHO you need to be
skidding here so you don't have to hit the wall at the left side of
the track, so be prepared to drift as you accelerate back to your
usual speed. By the time you are about to reach Turn 12, you should
have the car straightened so you can drift once again without any
trouble.
Turn 12
-------
Take this turn from the out-and-in, and drift with zest so you don't
hit the wall at the left or lose any much needed control. It's
important that you have the car straightened up by the time you meet
up with the worst area in the track--THE FINAL STRETCH!!!!
Turns 13-15
-----------
Worst part of the track. You need to slow down as early as the
painted crosswalk so you can set up for Turn 15, which is a rather
nasty right. Try not to go any faster than 60 mph on the first two
turns, and when you are about to take Turn 15, you need to be drifting
with zest and not accelerating until you have the car straightened up
but I find this part to be pretty nasty because your timing may be poor
by the time you enter this area. This part really demands good timing
and practice in order to avoid hitting the walls during the triangle.
Turn 16
-------
Pretty long Medium Right. You may need to do some skidding, or you
may not go any faster than 85 mph because this seems to be sharper than
I thought. You can skid, as long as you don't go too fast. Don't try
to accelerate until after the turn and after you have the car back to
stance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
HIGH SPEED RING
Unless you're inside the wheel of a mighty Dodge Viper GTS-R or a TVR
Cerbera Limited Edition, you will find yourself in dead last once you
finished this course because all of the cars tend to pose a vital threat
to your racing dominance in the series. You need to average about 147
mph all around in order to win this track, and avoid any blatant goof-
offs or spinouts in order to keep up with the competition.
Turn 1
------
Take this turn at full speed. Be sure at the final stretch of the turn
that you *slightly* slow down so you don't have to worry about hitting
the wall at the right by the time the turn ends.
Turn 2
------
You may want to brake as late as possible so that you can skid here at
higher speeds. Be sure that you are taking this turn out-and-in, and
by the time you leave the turn, you should prepare for Turns 3 and 4
without much trouble. Have the car straightened.
Turns 3 and 4
-------------
You may have to do some *blatant* slow down here since these turns are
the most dangerous turns in the track. I would cut my speed to around
90 mph so I won't be touching the grass or hitting the wall. Try to
do some rapid gas tapping in this area. A feel of the gas is required
to ensure control of the Mitsubishi GTO at all costs.
Turn 5
------
Provided that you took Turns 3 and 4 without any blatant trouble, this
would be a good place to prepare for Turn 6. Stay to the right side
of the track, making sure that you *barely* miss the grass at the right
side of the track. When Turn 6 starts, you should try to slow down in
a straight line and start taking Turn 6 from the outside and into the
inside.
Turn 6
------
Provided that you have slowed down to ~120 mph, you can take this turn
without having to release the gas pedal. Make sure that you speed out
if necessary if you feel that you're going to get closer to the wall
at the right.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
GRAND VALLEY EAST REVERSE
Much bizarre than Grand Valley East, GVE Reverse provides some weird
turns, but as long as you don't overspin your tires during harsh turns,
you should be doing fine.
Turns 1 and 2
-------------
The key to taking these two turns is to control your speed without any
blatant slowdown or wheelspin. A reasonable speed here would be 100
mph (my experimentation here is rather limited, so bear with me) with
some skidding, but you will need to have the car straightened up just
before you take on Turn 3.
Turn 3
------
This turn is pretty damn sharp, so it's important that you slow down
to about 80 mph just before the turn starts so you can cut the apex
of the turn. You may want to experiment with some sliding here, but
you need to adjust this strategy depending on your experience.
Turns 4 and 5
-------------
No blatant slowing down allowed. Try to maintain high speed without
wheelspin or blatant skidding. The key here would be to start these
turns as early as you can so you maintain your out-and-in routine.
Turn 6
------
Turn 6 is where beginners tend to bite the dust. Cut your speed to
*below* 50 mph just before the Tunnel terminates. When the turn
begins, you should try to cut the apex as much as you can, but don't
hit the wall at the right or you may overspin the rear tires.
Sliding's acceptable as long as you don't overdo it.
Turn 7
------
The key to taking this turn would be to cut the apex without using
the brakes too much and with a good feel of the gas pedal. Stay
inside of the track for as much as you can, making sure that your
wheels are touching the slant, *barely* missing the grass.
Turns 8 and 9
-------------
Keep a smooth racing line at all times. You can go full speed at
Turn 8, but you may have to do some skidding (be sure to turn before
the turn starts) on Turn 9. Here, the key is to maintain a high
speed without any speed loss and without too much skidding. A good
feel of the gas pedal, brake, and wheel will allow you to smoothen
up your racing line for speed in this area.
Turn 10
-------
Cut your speed to 60 mph just before the turn begins. Brake at a
straight line for control, and begin turning when you are comfy
enough. Don't overdo your drift as you may overspin your rear
wheels. The key here is to drift to the inside of this turn without
any wheelspin. You may have to speed out during this turn whenever
appropriate for your safety.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 11
This is the hardest of the five tracks in the series because since you
are inside a rear-drive car, any frontal contact with the wall may be
grounds for spinoffs as well as having the competition catch up with
you. It's important to slow down as early as you can so you'll allow
some room for error. Try not to take turns too sloppy. The key in this
track is to test your ability on how efficient you can take the tightest
turns inside a rear-drive car.
Turn 1
------
This turn can be taken at full speed. Just don't get so greedy in the
turn that you forget turning in the second turn.
Turn 2
------
Slow down from the outside. Then as the turn begins, slide throughout
most of the turn (although you may have to hit the wall, it takes
practice to avoid the wall in this course since Special Stage Route 11
is laden with sharps). Be sure that you're braking at a straight line
and slowing down ahead of time so that you don't spin out the rear
tires at the middle of the turn.
Turns 3 and 4
-------------
It may be *necessary* (but shouldn't be that bad) to slow down, but
don't do too much slowing down as you may risk spinning the rear
wheels blatantly. Do a slide and you'll be risking hitting a wall
at the left or hitting the gas canisters just before Turns 5 and 6.
The key to undertaking this turn would be to take this turn with the
smoothest possible line without slowing down too much and without
any blatant skidding. After you finish up this turn, you'll need
to slow down again because you're going to take on Turns 5 and 6
next!
Turns 5 and 6
-------------
You'll need to be slowing down ahead of time, begin turning (or
sliding if you feel adventurous), and going no more than around 50
mph (IMHO) in order to avoid any possible wall hit. Just a little
before Turn 6, be careful not to stay on the left because the slant
may drag your car at the right side of the track and may cause some
blatant rear wheel spin if you don't move away from the left in time
so be sure that you swerve right to preserve your rear tires (and to
prepare for Turn 6). By the time you are about to undertake Turn 6,
you should be sliding (if you want to) and just before Turn 7, you
should have the car straightened up. Don't accelerate while you
are taking on these twin sharps.
Turn 7
------
You need to slow down as early as you can (to avoid blatant rear
wheelspin) and take on this hairpin at speeds less than 40 mph. In
order to block off chances of spinning out, do not feed in too much
gas during this turn. This turn demands that you have a good feel
of the brakes and the gas. If not, then be prepared to get punished
by the competition.
Turns 8 and 9
-------------
Turn 8 can be taken at full speed. Turn 9 is a sharp left that you
will have to attempt slowing down ahead of time so that you don't
overspin the rear wheels. When taking on Turn 9, brake while the
straight is "here", and when the turn starts (and by the time you
drift), you should be able to bring in some control into your car, but
don't overuse the gas in this turn or you may be overspinning the rear
wheels (and perhaps that's a sign that you will spin out).
Turns 10-13
-----------
A Rear-Drive Car's concern. You may want to cut your speed to around
80 mph so you don't end up hitting the wall, which may overspin your
tires if you keep the foot on the Gas Pedal. Try to make sure you're
turning ahead of time and never get into a lousy skid as you may spin
out or perhaps hit the wall and melt your tired down.
Turns 14 and 15
---------------
These turns can be taken at full speed, but you need to use Turn 15
and the *slight* straightaway in order to prepare for Turns 16 and 17,
which comes in *just about* immediately, so you will need the car
straightened up in preparation for speed reduction for the next chicane.
Turns 16 and 17
---------------
If you used the brake while on a lousy position (from Turns 14 and 15),
then you're in for a spinout. Keep the car running straight, release
the gas pedal, and at around 40-50 mph, I would take on the first half
of the chicane from the out and in but I have to immediately swerve my
car to the left because I'm in for the next chicane. By the time I
turn at Turn 18, I should *be able* to have the car straightened up and
ready to drift at the next medium or sharp left.
Turn 18
-------
There is no need to brake here (since you've been slowing down at the
chicane), but you'll need to have a good feel of the gas and the brakes
in order to take on this turn without hitting any walls. Cutting the
apex is acceptable as long as you don't overdo it. You can slide here
but it's considered dangerous since you risk burning up your tires.
Turn 19
-------
There's some easy slants just before this painful hairpin. You may
wish to do the "Cheating Bastard" maneuver by leaning at the outside of
the track and then with zest timing lean to the right *just right* and
pedal to the metal. You must time your wheel yanks correctly in order
to cheat on this hairpin. However, you risk having to wear out your
tires and may face a possible spinout by all means, so an alternative
to the Cheating Bastard maneuver (BTW it's Jaz Rignall of PSM Online
who came up with the idea of the Cheating Bastard), brake just a little
before the left slant begins, and when your speed is below 55 mph,
start drifting. You must be in complete control of your car at all
times because this is where you tend to spin out. A good feel of the
gas and pedal is required.
Turns 20 and 21
---------------
I would treat these two sharps as one turn. Time your drift so that
you just *hit* the right wall and that you can have room to straighten
up your car by the time Turn 22 (hairpin) begins. A bad drift or a
sloppy undertake would result in the competition catching up with you.
Turn 22
-------
Here, the Cheating Bastard maneuver works here, but it's easier to do
the Cheating Bastard maneuver in this hairpin than in Turn 19 because
you don't have to contend with some slants before the hairpin. This
applies to the first hairpin just before the tunnel. As the right
hairpin starts, go way outside, and with zest timing, turn right just
right, and pedal to the metal. Becoming a cheating bastard takes time
because you need the right timing in order to take on the hairpin at
dangerous speeds (Once again, Jaz Rignall of
http://www.psmonline.com).
Turns 23 and 24
---------------
The easiest way to screw up on this turn would be to brake too late
so that your rear tires will overspin and throw you into a spinout.
The best time to slow down to about 40 mph would be when you see some
sections of Turn 23. Stay at the left side of the track and brake to
40 mph. When the turn begins, you need a good feel of the gas and the
steering wheel so you would avoid hitting the walls on these two turns.
You may face a spinout if you hit the wall. The key here is to keep a
straight racing line while taking on this tight chicane without any
drifting (as this will throw you out of control).
Turn 25
-------
Keep your speed to around 100 mph at this final turn. Speed out from
the turn if you are going to get closer to the left wall. A good feel
of the gas and the pedal is required here.
========================================================================
MEGASPEED CHAMPIONSHIP
Number of Tracks: 3
Laps per Track: 2
Required Class License: A-Class
Restriction of Car Type: No restriction on the car you can use.
HOWEVER, you are encouraged to get yourself a heavily-chachinated
Mitsubishi GTO TwinTurbo before entering this course!
Tracks involved: High Speed Ring, Test Course, High Speed Ring Reverse
Pole Position Bonus: 5000 Credits
Finish First in the Track Bonus: 15000 Credits
Series Winner Bonus: 30000 Credits
Car you get for winning the race: Either the Aston Martin DB7 or the
Toyota Soarer. Neither of these cars are good by default nor wheels
for beginners.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Vestiroth's note: This is the fastest championship in the game. You're
at a huge disadvantage unless you have a car capable of speeds of AT
LEAST 238 mph, which is faster than a McLaren. I wish that the McLaren
F1 was here though. A high-speed car is required without any exceptions.
You MUST follow these procedures before getting inside this race or you
will have to forget dominating the course (!):
1. Buy a new Mitsubishi GTO Twinturbo. I like All-Wheel Drive cars.
You may think that I'm out of this world because I'm telling you
these notes, but hey, I want you to dominate the series as
much as I want you to.
2. Improve your skills at the GT Cup. Hopefully, you've got a Toyota
Castrol Supra GT or a Subaru Impreza Rally Edition on your garage
to dominate the GT Cup! Use these cars to earn your dough on the
GT Cup.
3. Try to have as many credits as you can because you're going to do
some expensive tuning at the Ralli Art!
4. Here's what I want you do from this point on (Remember if you can't
afford for these parts earlier on, you can always come back later).
Keep in mind that these are only my recommendations so you should
experience with different parts throughout your gameplay. I'm
thankful to Sam Davis (
[email protected]) because I'm writing
this FAQ without my Gran Turismo Reference Guide! Please read his
Menu Translation Guide at GameFAQs.com:
* Buy the Sports Muffler
* Buy the Sports Brake Kit and Brake Balance Controller
* Buy any Turbo Kit. The Level 4 Kit has the most speed boost, but the
greatest Turbo Lag. This is the only time you'll ever benefit from
the Level 4 Turbo Kit.
* Buy the Racing Intercooler kit
* Buy the Racing Support Suspension Kit
* Buy Hard Stabilizer Kits on both sides of the car
* Buy Computer Engine Tune-up, Port Polishing, and Engine Balancing
* Buy Soft Racing Support Tires
* Buy Racing Support Gearbox, Triple Clutch, Racing Flywheel, and a
Carbon Driveshaft (if applicable)
* Undergo all stages of Weight Reduction
* Transform your Mitsubishi GTO Twinturbo into a 240 mph screamer!
Remember you can read Sam Davis's Gran Turismo Menu Translation Guide
if you need a better description of these at
http://www.gamefaqs.com.
5. If you followed these procedures, be prepared to snap, crackle, and
pop the competition!
6. BTW I'm basing this information driving an overpsyched, Castrolized
Mitsubishi GTO Twin Turbo, which is the best car in this series.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
HIGH SPEED RING
This seems to be an easy course, but unless you've got a Mitsubishi GTO
Twin-Turbo fully tuned and capable of going up to 240 mph and/or
capable of prompt acceleration, you will never finish first. It's in
the utmost importance that you try not to screw up on any occasion as
speed is what you need. I'll try to strike a good balance between Speed
and Handling, making sure that you don't spin out and that you don't lose
too much speed on turns that may be deadly.
Turn 1
------
Take this turn at full speed. Be sure at the final stretch of the turn
that you *slightly* slow down so you don't have to worry about hitting
the wall at the right by the time the turn ends.
Turn 2
------
You may want to brake as late as possible so that you can skid here at
higher speeds. Be sure that you are taking this turn out-and-in, and
by the time you leave the turn, you should prepare for Turns 3 and 4
without much trouble. Have the car straightened.
Turns 3 and 4
-------------
You may have to do some *blatant* slow down here since these turns are
the most dangerous turns in the track. I would cut my speed to around
90 mph so I won't be touching the grass or hitting the wall. Try to
do some rapid gas tapping in this area. A feel of the gas is required
to ensure control of the Mitsubishi GTO at all costs.
Turn 5
------
Provided that you took Turns 3 and 4 without any blatant trouble, this
would be a good place to prepare for Turn 6. Stay to the right side
of the track, making sure that you *barely* miss the grass at the right
side of the track. When Turn 6 starts, you should try to slow down in
a straight line and start taking Turn 6 from the outside and into the
inside.
Turn 6
------
Provided that you have slowed down to ~120 mph, you can take this turn
without having to release the gas pedal. Make sure that you speed out
if necessary if you feel that you're going to get closer to the wall
at the right.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
TEST COURSE
The hardest course in the series because there's bound to be some drones
who show no mercy in the event that you lack Top Speed. That's why you
need a car capable of speeds of 238 mph to dominate the course.
Turns 1 and 2
-------------
This is just simple. You don't need to slow down, but make sure that
you are moving from the outside of the course to the inside of the
course. Try to cut the apex making sure that your wheels are *just*
missing the grass at the left. Any wall hitting or grass mowing during
these two turns are grounds for some speed loss, and speed is crucial
to your success here at the Test Course.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
HIGH SPEED RING REVERSE
I don't know what to say for this one because this is *one* bizarre
course. You will have to beware of the many *parallel* corners that
this track has to offer. Basically, you will be going around this ring
in reverse, meaning that some strategies have to be adjusted in order
to block off the competition in this track.
Turn 1
------
I found this turn to be the deadliest turn of this track. If you are
going too fast, that means that you have to slow down ahead of time
*blatantly* in order to avoid contact with the wall, but don't slow
down too early as you will be touching the grass. I found out that
with some skidding, you should be taking this turn A-OK, but you may
want to take on this turn *according* to your experience.
Turn 2
------
Try to use this turn as a preparation to take on Turns 3 and 4. Stay
on the inside while taking on this turn, making sure you *barely* miss
the grass at the left side of the screen. By the time you start Turn
3, you should be at a good position to reduce room for error.
Turns 3 and 4
-------------
As with High Speed Ring, you should be going no faster than ~90 mph
(but you will need to adjust your speed based upon your experience).
Brake ahead of time, cut both turns using out-and-in, and make sure
that you are doing rapid gas tapping often here so you don't end up
hitting the grass or wall. A good feel of the gas pedal is required.
Turn 5
------
Cut your speed to about 110 mph just before the turn starts. Don't
cut your speed too early as you'll screw up BAD. As soon as the
turn starts, you should begin sliding (or taking it in a smooth line
if you don't want to risk losing speed) and as soon as the turn
concludes, straighten up the car.
Turn 6
------
As opposed to turn 1 on the forward track, this turn can be taken at
full speed providing that you have been able to take this turn ahead
of time, and that you don't end up hitting the wall or grass in any
fashion.
========================================================================
COMMERCIAL CAR CHAMPIONSHIP
Number of Tracks: 5
Laps per Track: 5
Required Class License: A-Class
Restriction of Car Type: The car that you're in CANNOT use any
enhancement/modification parts, and you cannot make the car racing-
compliant at all. When you buy a car that you want to throw inside
this course, DO NOT DO ANYTHING TO THIS CAR!!!!!!! This series will
determine the fastest commercially available car in the world.
Tracks involved: Autumnring-Mini Reverse, Grand Valley East Reverse,
Clubman Stage Route 5 in Reverse, Deep Forest in Reverse,
Special Stage Route 11 (in no particular order, since it's hard for me
to remember)
Pole Position Bonus: 10000 Credits
Finish First in the Track Bonus: 50000 Credits
Series Winner Bonus: 100000 Credits
Car you get for winning the race: You get a Subaru Impreza or a Toyota
Supra RZ for winning. Although these cars can be upgraded and trans-
formed into racing cars, sell these lemons to either Subaru for the
Impreza or Toyota for the Supra.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Vestiroth's note: I hope that you dislike this championship series. I'm
saying this because you're only allowed to use untamed, unmodified,
normal cars, which JUST PLAIN SUCKS!!!! I've been reading every Game
FAQs
available on line (Please refer to GameFAQs.com and Secrets of the
Sega Sages if you want to know why I'm going to be saying these pet
peeves) and found out that once you master the Dodge Viper GTS, then
you should be doing OK. Be sure that you're not spinning the rear
wheels as you need every inch of control. Sadly, PSM Online suggests
that you get the Dodge Viper RT-10, but as a Gran Turismo Player who's
out for more handling than bliss, here's what I want you to REALLY do:
1. Buy a red Dodge Viper GTS. DON'T BUY ANY MODIFICATION PARTS OR
MAKE THIS VIPER RACING-COMPLIANT! Your next step would be to place
this Viper GTS on your Memory Card by saving it!
2. Improve your skills at the Sunday Cup so you can get used to the
Viper's rather unorthodox control. I know that the Viper GTS is
heavier than the RT-10, but I found the Viper GTS more forgiving
in terms of stability than the watered-up RT-10.
3. Once you mastered the GTS, then it's time to throw this car on the
Commercial Car championship (provided that you've got your A-Class
License).
4. There are 5 tracks with a grueling 5 laps each track! Get ready to
wear out your PlayStation... Remember to take a 15-30 minute rest
for every consecutive 2 hours of play.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
AUTUMN RING MINI REVERSE
You should be familiar with this course from the Featherweight and
Economy Car challenge. Since I'm riding on the Dodge Viper, there are
probably some obvious changes to this section.
Turn 1
------
Cut your speed to about 80 mph just before the turn starts. Skid this
lamer and by the time the chicanes begin, you should regain control of
the car.
Turns 2-5
---------
Ease yourself throughout this chicane. Keep your speed around 70 mph to
avoid grass contact. Try to keep a straight racing line in order to
maintain your top speed. Use Turn 5 as your cue to Turn 6.
Turn 6
------
You should start skidding at Turn 5 as preparation for undertaking this
turn. I would say you should cut your speed to around 50 mph when you
undertake Turn 5 so you can treat Turns 5 and 6 as one turn. Don't
bother accelerating until after you finish Turn 6.
Turn 7
------
Slow down ahead of time so you can cut the apex of the turn. Skid this
lamer as much as you can (but keep in mind that you may touch the grass
during the Apex cut). Right before Turn 8 begins, you should have the
car straightened up so you can drift throughout this turn.
Turn 8
------
Drift this turn at around 50 mph (but no more than 60 mph). Have your
car straightened up after Turn 7 so you can brake smoothly and in a
straight line to avoid any blatant wheelspin and possibly a spin-out.
Turn 9
------
This could be pretty much the worst turn in the track. You'll need to
slow down to 37 mph just before the turn starts. Hopefully, you got
the car straightened up after Turn 8 because you need every drop of
control in order to pass this hairpin without error. Try not to spin
the rear tires as this may result in a blatant spinout.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
GRAND VALLEY EAST REVERSE
Much bizarre than Grand Valley East, GVE Reverse provides some weird
turns, but as long as you don't overspin your tires during harsh turns,
you should be doing fine.
Turns 1 and 2
-------------
The key to taking these two turns is to control your speed without any
blatant slowdown or wheelspin. A reasonable speed here would be 100
mph (my experimentation here is rather limited, so bear with me) with
some skidding, but you will need to have the car straightened up just
before you take on Turn 3.
Turn 3
------
This turn is pretty damn sharp, so it's important that you slow down
to about 80 mph just before the turn starts so you can cut the apex
of the turn. You may want to experiment with some sliding here, but
you need to adjust this strategy depending on your experience.
Turns 4 and 5
-------------
No blatant slowing down allowed. Try to maintain high speed without
wheelspin or blatant skidding. The key here would be to start these
turns as early as you can so you maintain your out-and-in routine.
Turn 6
------
Turn 6 is where beginners tend to bite the dust. Cut your speed to
*below* 50 mph just before the Tunnel terminates. When the turn
begins, you should try to cut the apex as much as you can, but don't
hit the wall at the right or you may overspin the rear tires.
Sliding's acceptable as long as you don't overdo it.
Turn 7
------
The key to taking this turn would be to cut the apex without using
the brakes too much and with a good feel of the gas pedal. Stay
inside of the track for as much as you can, making sure that your
wheels are touching the slant, *barely* missing the grass.
Turns 8 and 9
-------------
Keep a smooth racing line at all times. You can go full speed at
Turn 8, but you may have to do some skidding (be sure to turn before
the turn starts) on Turn 9. Here, the key is to maintain a high
speed without any speed loss and without too much skidding. A good
feel of the gas pedal, brake, and wheel will allow you to smoothen
up your racing line for speed in this area.
Turn 10
-------
Cut your speed to 60 mph just before the turn begins. Brake at a
straight line for control, and begin turning when you are comfy
enough. Don't overdo your drift as you may overspin your rear
wheels. The key here is to drift to the inside of this turn without
any wheelspin. You may have to speed out during this turn whenever
appropriate for your safety.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
CLUBMAN STAGE ROUTE 5 REVERSE
Clubman Stage Route 5 Reverse shouldn't be that tough provided that
you're an expert driver in Gran Turismo already. The only concern that
you should be focusing on is Turn 1, which is indeed *weird*. Here are
some techniques you'll need in order to nail the competition right here:
Turn 1
------
The greatest concern in the track. Go to the left side of the track and
</pre><pre id="faqspan-4">
when you see some sections of this turn, move *gently* to the inside of
this turn and provided that you're not going to be hitting the bizarre
wall at the start of the turn (which may overspin the wheels and cause
a spin-off), skid.
Turn 2
------
Take this turn out-and-in. Skid throughout this turn making sure that
you turn as early as you possibly can to avoid hitting the walls. The
key to taking this turn efficiently is to drift without any early-bird
attempts or any blatant loss in speed. Keeping a smooth racing line
will result in an increased ratio of speed during this turn.
Turns 3 and 4
-------------
This Ess can be taken at full speed. Make sure that you yank the car
just before the turn starts because these turns are rather blind for
beginners.
Turn 5
------
Take this turn from the out-and-in, preparing yourself for Turn 6.
Don't slow down too much because this may result in a blatant skid,
something you don't want to do until you reach Turn 6.
Turn 6
------
You can scrape the left wall by turning the car to the right just right
and hug the wall while stepping on the gas but that's risky because you
will burn up the tires and possibly spin the rear wheels. I would just
skid on this turn (although I may have to hit the wall). You may have
to adjust your speed depending on your skill. I would say that 60 mph
is safe to start.
Turn 7
------
Turn gently on this turn, making sure that you are going from the out
and in so you will prepare yourself for the final two turns. By the
time you start Turn 8, you should be lined up at the left side of the
track.
Turn 8
------
The key to undertaking this turn is to cut the apex as much as possible
without any blatant sliding or slowing down. Under 100 mph and over 90
mph would be reasonable. A good feel of the gas and wheel is required
in order to avoid any wall contact.
Turn 9
------
This final turn can be taken at full speed. If you skid, then just
make sure that you have the car straightened up before you cross the
finish line, as you will need every drop of speed to blast the enemies
into smithereens in this track.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
DEEP FOREST REVERSE
Here comes the grass once again, and it's important that you don't touch
the grass because Commercial Cars tend to lose more control than car
s
with psyched up modification parts and Castrol Stickers. I'm gonna try
to make sure that you don't touch the grass at all costs by mixing a
good blend of speed and handling, but this could be the course that you
may lose if you don't stay under control at all times.
Turn 1
------
You can powerslide this sucker providing that you braked the car just
before the turn starts, and controlled the slide during the turn. If
you're not crazy about sliding, then you may want to slow down to 95
mph just before the turn starts.
Turns 2 and 3
-------------
Turn 2 can be taken at full speed. However, you will need to slow down
at a straight line when you are about to undertake Turn 3. I would say
85 mph with some sliding would be reasonable enough to avoid hitting
the wall at the left.
Turns 4 and 5
-------------
These turns are as close as you'll find with a straightaway, so make
sure that you are keeping a straight racing line to ensure that your
car is running straight and smooth so you can slow down by the time
you see some sections of Turn 6.
Turn 6
------
When you see some sections of the turn, you should cut your speed
according to the weight of your car. Keep in mind that heavier car
s
tend to take longer to slow down, so you will need to keep that in
mind. Cut your speed to 110 mph before the turn starts, and when
Turn 6 begins, release the gas pedal, brake, and rapid-tap the gas.
I would say that you're going to end up going 80 mph sliding for the
most part.
Turns 7 and 8
-------------
The key to undertaking these turns is to keep a smooth racing line
without any blatant slowdown. You should try to speed out if you
risk going inside the grass, but you should never try to get into a
blatant slide here. When you are inside the tunnel, you should be
at
a smooth racing line so that you can slow down in preparation for
turns 9 and 10.
Turns 9 and 10
--------------
Slow down to 60 mph when you are inside the tunnel. You should be
below 60 mph by the time Turn 9 begins. You can skid throughout this
turn, but it's rather dangerous because if you land on the grass, then
you'll accidentially spin the rear wheels (causing a possible spinout).
You will need to be running in a straight line by the time you get
inside the tunnel that signals Turn 10. Again, cut your speed (but
don't slow down too much) while inside the tunnel, and as the tunnel
ends, begin to skid. Try to use the out-and-in technique and make
sure that you are not going inside the grass.
Turns 11-13
-----------
A smooth racing line will help you set up for the final hairpin at the
final stretch of the track. Just make sure that you are not undergoing
a blatant skid or any grass mowing during these three turns.
Turn 14
-------
Go to the leftmost lane and cut your speed to about 60 mph. When the
turn starts, lean to the inside of the track, and forget about using
the gas in full until you can get out of the haripin without error.
The key to undertaking this hairpin is with *zest* speed control.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 11
This course is just plain hard. Nuff said.
Turn 1
------
This turn can be taken at full speed. Just don't get so greedy in the
turn that you forget turning in the second turn.
Turn 2
------
Slow down from the outside. Then as the turn begins, slide throughout
most of the turn (although you may have to hit the wall, it takes
practice to avoid the wall in this course since Special Stage Route 11
is laden with sharps). Be sure that you're braking at a straight line
and slowing down ahead of time so that you don't spin out the rear
tires at the middle of the turn.
Turns 3 and 4
-------------
It may be *necessary* (but shouldn't be that bad) to slow down, but
don't do too much slowing down as you may risk spinning the rear
wheels blatantly. Do a slide and you'll be risking hitting a wall
at the left or hitting the gas canisters just before Turns 5 and 6.
The key to undertaking this turn would be to take this turn with the
smoothest possible line without slowing down too much and without
any blatant skidding. After you finish up this turn, you'll need
to slow down again because you're going to take on Turns 5 and 6
next!
Turns 5 and 6
-------------
You'll need to be slowing down ahead of time, begin turning (or
sliding if you feel adventurous), and going no more than around 50
mph (IMHO) in order to avoid any possible wall hit. Just a little
before Turn 6, be careful not to stay on the left because the slant
may drag your car at the right side of the track and may cause some
blatant rear wheel spin if you don't move away from the left in time
so be sure that you swerve right to preserve your rear tires (and to
prepare for Turn 6). By the time you are about to undertake Turn 6,
you should be sliding (if you want to) and just before Turn 7, you
should have the car straightened up. Don't accelerate while you
are taking on these twin sharps.
Turn 7
------
You need to slow down as early as you can (to avoid blatant rear
wheelspin) and take on this hairpin at speeds less than 40 mph. In
order to block off chances of spinning out, do not feed in too much
gas during this turn. This turn demands that you have a good feel
of the brakes and the gas. If not, then be prepared to get punished
by the competition.
Turns 8 and 9
-------------
Turn 8 can be taken at full speed. Turn 9 is a sharp left that you will
have to attempt slowing down ahead of time so that you don't overspin
the rear wheels. When taking on Turn 9, brake while the straight is
"here", and when the turn starts (and by the time you drift), you should
be able to bring in some control into your car, but don't overuse the
gas in this turn or you may be overspinning the rear wheels (and perhaps
that's a sign that you will spin out).
Turns 10-13
-----------
A Viper's nightmare. You may want to cut your speed to around 80
mph so you don't end up hitting the wall, which may overspin your
tires if you keep the foot on the Gas Pedal. Try to make sure you're
turning ahead of time and never get into a lousy skid as you may spin
out or perhaps hit the wall and melt your tired down.
Turns 14 and 15
---------------
These turns can be taken at full speed, but you need to use Turn 15
and the *slight* straightaway in order to prepare for Turns 16 and 17,
which comes in *just about* immediately, so you will need the car
straightened up in preparation for speed reduction for the next chicane.
Turns 16 and 17
---------------
If you used the brake while on a lousy position (from Turns 14 and 15),
then you're in for a spinout. Keep the car running straight, release
the gas pedal, and at around 40-50 mph, I would take on the first half
of the chicane from the out and in but I have to immediately swerve my
car to the left because I'm in for the next chicane. By the time I
turn at Turn 18, I should *be able* to have the car straightened up and
ready to drift at the next medium or sharp left.
Turn 18
-------
There is no need to brake here (since you've been slowing down at the
chicane), but you'll need to have a good feel of the gas and the brakes
in order to take on this turn without hitting any walls. Cutting the
apex is acceptable as long as you don't overdo it. You can slide here
but it's considered dangerous since you risk burning up your tires.
Turn 19
-------
There's some easy slants just before this painful hairpin. You may
wish to do the "Cheating Bastard" maneuver by leaning at the outside of
the track and then with zest timing lean to the right *just right* and
pedal to the metal. You must time your wheel yanks correctly in order
to cheat on this hairpin. However, you risk having to wear out your
tires and may face a possible spinout by all means, so an alternative
to the Cheating Bastard maneuver (BTW it's Jaz Rignall of PSM Online
who came up with the idea of the Cheating Bastard), brake just a little
before the left slant begins, and when your speed is below 55 mph,
start drifting. You must be in complete control of your car at all
times because this is where you tend to spin out. A good feel of the
gas and pedal is required.
Turns 20 and 21
---------------
I would treat these two sharps as one turn. Time your drift so that
you just *hit* the right wall and that you can have room to straighten
up your car by the time Turn 22 (hairpin) begins. A bad drift or a
sloppy undertake would result in the competition catching up with you.
Turn 22
-------
Here, the Cheating Bastard maneuver works here, but it's easier to do
the Cheating Bastard maneuver in this hairpin than in Turn 19 because
you don't have to contend with some slants before the hairpin. This
applies to the first hairpin just before the tunnel. As the right
hairpin starts, go way outside, and with zest timing, turn right just
right, and pedal to the metal. Becoming a cheating bastard takes time
because you need the right timing in order to take on the hairpin at
dangerous speeds (Once again, Jaz Rignall of
http://www.psmonline.com).
Turns 23 and 24
---------------
The easiest way to screw up on this turn would be to brake too late
so that your rear tires will overspin and throw you into a spinout.
The best time to slow down to about 40 mph would be when you see some
sections of Turn 23. Stay at the left side of the track and brake to
40 mph. When the turn begins, you need a good feel of the gas and the
steering wheel so you would avoid hitting the walls on these two turns.
You may face a spinout if you hit the wall. The key here is to keep a
straight racing line while taking on this tight chicane without any
drifting (as this will throw you out of control).
Turn 25
-------
Keep your speed to around 100 mph at this final turn. Speed out from
the turn if you are going to get closer to the left wall. A good feel
of the gas and the pedal is required here.
========================================================================
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
The purpose of creating Gran Turismo FAQs grouped by License Classes is
to provide help in how to pass the license tests, and how to get first
place in each track and series. This also happens to be one of the
PlayStation games where I've been receiving lots of stupid e-mail about
questions that can be easily answered by myself when I was only 7 years
of age. Before you even e-mail me about Gran Turismo again, you are
strongly advised to look over this section before e-mailing me. Most
of your questions should be answered by just simply looking at this FAQ
and/or just by looking at this section!
Q: Is there a code to unlock the 1967 Chevrolet Corvette in the Simulation
Mode of the game?
A: Hell no. This car is only available at the Arcade Mode of the game.
Q: How come you don't write any FAQs for the Arcade Mode of the game?
A: Simple. Because much of the game's replay value is centralized
throughout the Simulation Mode.
Q: Why do you tell me to use the FWD and AWD cars in any of your GT
FAQs?
A: They're a lot more stable and more forgiving to drive than Rear
Wheel Cars, which require a lot of respect. My personal favorite
is the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition with AWD, a great prize you
can have for winning the US Versus Japan Championships.
Q: Why don't you use the Concept Car?
A: I hate the Concept Car. It's rather unstable and it sucks (IMHO).
However, Adrian Pepper recommends that you try it in one race
although you may hate the unstable nature of the car. You have to
test the car and keep on fiddling the car until you find the right
settings for you. To caution you, never, ever, ever fiddle the
car's settings (you've got to know the car's strengths and weaknesses
first) unless you know what you're doing. This is my most hated
car from my perspective, and this car isn't Mark Kim-approved
at all.
Q: Do I NEED to run all stages of Weight Reduction before buying the
Racing Body?
A: Now this is one interesting question. I usually purchase all stages
of Weight Reduction before buying the Racing Body. However, this is
what has Brian McNulty said to me on a previous message:
"I am writing to you about your B, A, and IA strategy guides. I have
noted several times that you make notes telling people to 'Make sure
that you buy all the stages of weight reduction before you buy the
racing modification'.
This is not acurate in that your car will weigh the same after the
racing modification regardless of whether or not you buy the weight
reduction or not.
I conducted an experiment with Mutsubishi GTO Twin Turbo. The car
brand new weighs 3769 lbs, after three stages of weight reduction,
AND, racing modification it weighed 2713 lbs.
I then bought another GTO same color and all weighing 3769 lbs. off
the lot and performed ONLY the racing modification. Both of these
cars *Castrolized* weighed 2713 lbs, one with the racing mod., the
other without.
Try it some time and E-mail me with the results."
Q: What are the best cars to use for each series?
A: Here's the lowdown:
Sunday Cup: A car that's powerful enough.
Clubman Cup: An adequately-powered up Nissan Skyline GTS-R
GT Cup: A fully-tuned Nissan Skyline GTS-R or a Mitsubishi FTO LM
GT World Cup: Same as with the GT Cup
Front-Wheel Drive: Mitsubishi FTO GP Version R, Fully Tuned, Racing
Body under your discretion.
Rear-Wheel Drive: Dodge Viper or TVR Cerbera. The Viper GTS-R
and Cerbera LM are also strong cars.
All-Wheel Drive: Any Nissan Skyline GTS-R
Featherweight Championships: Mitsubishi FTO GP Version R, Fully
Tuned. I personally would try to get a racing body with this one.
US Versus Japan: Nissan Skyline GTS-R or Mitsubishi FTO LM
Japan Versus UK: Nissan Skyline GTS-R or Mitsubishi FTO LM
US Versus UK: TVR Cerbera LM or Dodge Viper GTS-R
Commercial Car Championships: Dodge Viper GTS/RT-10 (Don't do
anything to it) or the Rarity from the IA License Tests.
Heavily Tuned Championships: Heavily Tuned Nissan Skyline GT-R
(No Racing Bodies). This is the hardest race to win on because
you can't bring along your big-daddy racing cars to this one, which
is a sad moment!
Megaspeed: Nissan Skyline GT-R V-Spec or Mitsubishi GTO
Twinturbo/MR fully fiddled for speeds of at least 245 mph
Grand Valley Endurance: Mitsubishi FTO LM
Special Stage Route 11 Endurance: Mitsubishi FTO LM
Special Stage Route 11 Reverse Endurance: Heavily Tuned Nissan
Skyline GT-R (No Racing Bodies). This is another difficult race to
win. Definitely configure your car for handling here.
Q: I can't get past License A-4!
A: This is one of the game's toughest tests in the Simulation Mode. The
key in this license test is to corner through bad turns without blatant
slowdown. The Nissan Skyline GT-R VSpec isn't an easy car to use so
this track may require use of Manual Transmission. At the starting line,
you want to cut through the apex and stay inside
all the way at full speed. Slow down ahead of time from the outside
before the first sharp turn and don't brake too hard. Cut the apex of
the sharp turn and use short taps of the gas to buffer the cornering.
If you have to slow down, just use short taps of the pedal. At the
final major turn, you want to be at the outside and then just use the
gas pedal. Cut the apex. Try to keep a smooth line all the way so
that you don't lose speed from sliding through the turn. This test
takes a lot of getting used to so don't get pissed if you can't pass it
your first couple of times. This test mainly sees how competent of a
driver you are rather than on speed.
Be sure to pay attention to my Gran Turismo A-Class License Guide as
it has some rough hypothesis on this cheap test!
Q: Tell me the eligible cars for the featherweight championships!
A: The eligible cars are as follows:
* Toyota Starlet Glanza V
* Toyota Corolla Levin BZG
* Toyota Sprinter Trueno BZG
* Toyota AE86 Corolla Levin GT-APEX
* Toyota AE86 Sprinter Trueno GT-APEX
* Mitsubishi FTO 1994 GR
* Mitsubishi FTO 1994 GPX
* Mitsubishi FTO GPX
* Mitsubishi FTO GP Version R
* Mitsubishi Mirage Asti RX
* Mitsubishi Mirage 1992 Cyborg R
* Acura Integra GS-R
* Acura Integra Type R
* Honda Civic Sedan
* Honda Civic Racer
* Honda Civic 3-Door
* Honda Civic Del Sol S
* Honda Civic Del Sol Si
* Honda Civic 1991 CR-X Si
* Honda Civic 1993 3-Door
* Honda Civic 1993 Sedan
* Mazda Miata Eunos Roadster 1989 Normal
* Mazda Miata Eunos Roadster 1990 V-Special
* Mazda Miata Eunos Roadster 1992 S-Special
* Mazda Miata Eunos Roadster Normal
* Miata Eunos Roadster V-Special
* Mazda Miata Eunos Roadster S-Special
* Mazda Demio GL-X
* Mazda Demio GL
* Mazda Demio LX G-Package
* Mazda Demio A-Spec.
All cars (with the exception of the Demio A-Spec) are shown on your
GT Manual and Instruction Book.
Q: I can't get past License Test B-3!!!
A: It's time for the real fight. This test is possibly the toughest test
among the B-Class License Tests. Since the Honda Civic Del Sol
doesn't have lively acceleration and excellent speed, your best bet is
to stay at the right side of the track and try to slow down ahead of
time. Don't use the brakes since you may blatantly slow down. Use
short taps of the Gas to level around the apex and make sure that
you keep a smooth driving line so that you don't lose too much speed.
I highly recommend using the Manual Transmission for this track.
Q: I CAN'T PASS A SINGLE IA-LICENSE TEST!!!
A: All of these IA-Class License Tests are set on the Time Trials,
requiring you to utilize just about everything you learned from the
B and A Class Events. If for any reason you can't master any of the
IA-License Tests, then here are the solutions:
1. Try attempting on all of the first seven License Tests. If
for any reason you can't pass any of the seven license
tests, then just exit out of the IA License Tests and save
your progress to your Memory Card.
2. The best way to know how to use the Dodge Viper GTS
Coupe is to throw the Dodge Viper GTS Coupe on the
Commercial Car Championships. Buy a Viper GTS Coupe
and don't do anything to it. Not only this is a great way
to get used to the Viper GTS Coupe, but it's also a great
way to earn some cold hard cash.
3. Try to buy a TVR Griffith and don't do anything to it. Test
the TVR Griffith through the "freelance" Time Trial Runs
and see how good you are with the Griffith. You may
need to practice with the TVR through the Sunday Cup a
few times to get used to it.
4. I personally would try to get used to a car with at least
500 Horsepower. There are plenty of Racing Models that
has lots of horses under the hood. Also, try to get used
to a fully-tuned, racing modified Nissan Skyline GT-R or a
Mitsubishi GTO TwinTurbo/MR.
5. I personally would participate in any of these A-Class
Series: All International Competition Series, GT Cup, and
the Commecial Car Series. Also, try to use a Rear-Drive
Racing Car so that you can get used to the Rear-Drive
Cars a lot better.
Q: Please tell me what the cheats are.
A: I'll make this clear: THERE ARE NO CHEAT CODES IN GRAN TURISMO!!!!
Sony did a good job creating a game that has NO CHEAT CODES
whatsoever. Cheat codes ONLY RUIN REPLAY VALUE so be it. PLEASE DO
NOT BEG ME FOR ANY MORE GRAN TURISMO/GRAN TURISMO 2 CHEAT CODES
THROUGH E-MAIL ANYMORE!!! I'm getting sick and tired of
anybody begging me for any cheat codes!!!! If you EVEN DARE
ask me for any cheat codes for Gran Turismo or Gran Turismo 2,
then I will assume you spamming me.
Q: What do you mean by "Castrolizing" the car?
A: I use the term "Castrolize" as a classification when you tune up
your car to the maximum possible levels. This means maxing-out the
brakes, gearshaft, horsepower, and all other attributes of the car.
I'll leave the decision between weight reduction and racing body up
to you, though.
Q: When are you going to create an FAQ for Gran Turismo 2 for the Play
Station?
A: Definitely not. I was overall disappointed with the sequel.
========================================================================
THE DO'S AND DONT'S
Again, this FAQ is for use only in the following sites:
* Mark Kim's Website:
http://home.comcast.net/~markkim31
* GameFAQs
http://www.gamefaqs.com
If you find this FAQ is AT ANY OTHER SITE OTHER THAN THE LISTED ABOVE,
THEN IT IS AN ILLEGAL COPY. Please notify and/or warn me about this
as soon as you can. Thank you.
In addition, only myself (Mark Kim, Vesther Fauransy) and Gamers.COM
(
http://www.gamers.com, Joel, please notify me of any address changes
if you are reading this) are the ONLY ones who can HTMLize this file
(with bug busts and grammar changes permitted).
Why? Because these sites are the only ones that keep all original work
updated and up-to-date.
You can always get the latest version of this FAQ at GameFAQs since I
always put the latest version of my works right there first.
GameFAQs does a good job keeping the files up-to-date at all times and
is regarded as the most visited "stable" for FAQ-related walkthroughs,
original work, and the like.
Rules:
* DO NOT place this file in your web site directly. Only Joel Downs,
GameFAQs, and myself have exclusive rights to this file.
* If you are planning to link to any of the sites I have
mentioned on this reminder, then you are to be advised that
your linking rights are heavily limited as foretold on the
webmaster's fine prints (depending on where you plan to make
your link to). If I'm too vague on this, then please visit
the following URL to see why more and more webmasters are
restricting links:
=
http://www.templetons.com/brad/linkright.html (Brad Templeton's
Linking Rights Essay).
========================================================================
REFERENCES OF THIS FAQ
NO GT FAQ can be complete without giving "hard credit" for those who
helped me out while I was still green on this game. These people/sites
are:
* Jaz Rignall (
http://www.psmonline.com)
* GameFAQs.com (
http://www.gamefaqs.com)
* Mousse Lee
* Mystery Rhee (
http://mit.edu/mystery/www/gtfaq.txt)
* Sam Davis
* Fukomoto Atsushi (
http://www.imasy.or.jp/~fukumoto/gt/)
* Secrets of the Sega Sages (
http://www.segasages.com)
* Imagine Games Network (
http://www.imaginegames.com)
========================================================================
SUGGESTING SUGGESTIONS AND OTHER TRALALA
Sending UCE to any of the mailboxes that I have is not tolerated.
Period. I report any incidence of spamming by checking the header on
where you originated the message at and then report the incidence to
the server you originated your message at (which is more likely to get
you in deep trouble) or I can just slam you by sending complaints to
the following: The server you originated the message at, to your
provider, or possibly the Free-Mail Service that you use. Don't spam
me. It's not worth it.
In addition, I WILL _NO LONGER_ TOLERATE ANY E-MAIL ASKING ME FOR ANY
CHEATS COMPATIBLE FOR GRAN TURISMO. If you even dare ask me for any
cheat codes for GT, then I will assume that you are spamming.
See
http://spam.abuse.net to see why it's bad.
========================================================================
SOME RANTS
After having to winder around the International A Class License tests,
I managed to get my IA-Class License and saved this progress on my
Memory Card. This is good because I don't want to go through the
trouble of having to get my license once again. It may be hard to get
your IA License but once you get it, then it's worth the effort of
getting it.
When I read one of GameFan's magazines (Commercial Magazines now suck
these days, now that you can get hardcore strategies on the Internet
for free), I've realized that there is NO CHEAT CODES listed for Gran
Turismo. Be it. There is no cheat codes for Gran Turismo. Sony will
not create any cheat codes for any game that they might publish or
develop and never will. Cheat Codes only spoil replay value, and that's
the bottom line!
========================================================================
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
* Jaz Rignall for being the standard example of Gran Turismo Domination
and being the wiz in Gran Turismo. Read his Gran Turismo Guide at
http://www.psmonline.com.
* Sony and Polyphony Digital for creating the best PlayStation Game in
the market ever yet.
* Toyota, Honda, Acura, Nissan, Mitsubishi, Mazda, Subaru, Chrysler,
General Motors, TVR, and Aston Martin for permitting Sony to portray
their cars in Gran Turismo.
* Fukomoto Atsushi, Sam Davis, Mousse Lee, and Mystery Rhee for being
one of the many first FAQ Authors to produce a Gran Turismo FAQ.
* Secrets of the Sega Sages for secrets regarding about winning the
Commercial Car Race.
* Imagine Games Network for accepting Sega Sages and GameFAQs.com as
IGN Affiliates.
* Tigeraid (John Culbert) for using my Gran Turismo Documents as a basis
for creating his own compendium.
Joel Downs for creating HTMLized versions of my Gran Turismo Documents
and for days of e-mail communication.
* GameFAQs for being the largest stable of original, fresh work.
* Chris MacDonald/Kao Megura for being the first 5MB FAQ Author.
** END OF DOCUMENT **
Unpublished Work (tm) and (c) by Mark Kim. All Rights Reserved
Gran Turismo: (tm) and (c) by Sony Computer Entertainment. Developed
by Polyphony Digital. All the cars, images, their likelinesses, and
other real-life car-related events are (tm) and (c) of their respective
owners.
