Bigfoot
FAQ/Walkthrough
By Jason Venter
Thank you for choosing my FAQ. I work hard to ensure that each FAQ I write
provides useful information in a pleasant and intuitive format. Also, I like
both cheese and pickles a great deal. You will find contact, legal and
copyright information at the end of this FAQ.
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
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The table of contents is your friend. Each segment listed below is followed
by a bracketed alpha-numeric code. If you're using a Microsoft word
processing program, press CTRL+F (on an Apple, it's COMMAND+F) and enter the
code within the brackets to skip to the corresponding section of the FAQ in a
flash.
{C0002} AUTHOR'S NOTES
{C0003} REVISION HISTORY
{G0001} GAME MECHANICS
{G1001} GAME CONTROLS
{G1002} ITEM DESCRIPTIONS
{G1003} VEHICLE UPGRADES
{W0001} WALKTHROUGH
{W1001} RACE TO MESA
{W1002} MESA CAR CRUNCH
{W1003} RACE TO RENO
{W1004} RENO MUD RACE
{W1005} RACE TO YAKIMA
{W1006} YAKIMA HILL CLIMB
{W1007} RACE TO FARGO
{W1008} FARGO TRACTOR PULL
{W1009} RACE TO PUEBLO
{W1010} PUEBLO CAR CRUNCH
{W1011} RACE TO TULSA
{W1012} TULSA TRACTOR PULL
{W1013} RACE TO JACKSON
{W1014} JACKSON HILL CLIMB
{W1015} RACE TO UNION
{W1016} UNION MUD RACE
{W1017} RACE TO NEW YORK
{W1018} NEW YORK DRAG RACE
{C0004} FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
{C0005} ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
{C0006} CONTACT/COPYRIGHT/LEGAL
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AUTHOR'S NOTES {C0002}
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Bigfoot is a great game on the NES, though it's one that not everyone is going
to enjoy playing. These days, one reason they might not play is that they
simply don't understand the game's flow. This FAQ and Walkthrough will remedy
that issue. I'll tell you how the control's work, give you an idea of the
game's general flow and items, and give you the strategies you need to play
through the game from start to finish. More people should play and enjoy this
game, and perhaps after reading this FAQ they will.
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REVISION HISTORY {C0003}
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April 27, 2007
I began and finished the first draft of my FAQ for the NES Completion Project
over on GameFAQs. I consider it complete now, unless someone submits
something else I just can't resist adding. I was surprised to find that one
of my favorite games on the system didn't have any available content.
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GAME MECHANICS {G0001}
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Bigfoot works in a fairly simple fashion. Your goal is to drive to
competitions around the United States, starting in Los Angeles and concluding
in New York. Half of the game's stages take place from an overhead
perspective. You race against your competitor while avoiding obstacles and
collecting power-ups and cash. Whoever gets to the finish line first gets a
special cash prize.
From there, you'll compete in one of several events that also has a cash prize
on the line. Those events are viewed from a side perspective. Before you
compete, you get to spend your money on upgrades for your vehicle in one of
four areas. The winner of the event in question gets more money. Then it's
back to an overhead stage.
You win Bigfoot by reaching the final competition and finishing with more cash
than your competitor. You lose if you go broke. If your opponent goes broke,
someone steps in to carry the torch (and his winnings total doesn't change).
Therefore, this is a case of survival of the fittest.
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GAME CONTROLS {G1001}
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The NES controller only has a few options, and the game's developers had some
pretty big ambitions. As a result, you won't be controlling Bigfoot the way
you might expect. There are two unique perspectives in the game. Below,
you'll find the control scheme for each perspective.
OVERHEAD RACES:
D-PAD - Steer
B - Special Item
A - Turbo Boost
START - Pause
SIDE PERSPECTIVE:
D-PAD - Accelerate
B - Turbo Boost
A - Shift
START - Pause
You'll also be able to use the controller between races to select the upgrades
you want for your vehicle. Just press 'left' on the D-Pad (or 'B') to remove
an upgrade you've purchased in exchange for the indicated amount of cash or
press 'right' (or 'A') to add an upgrade if you have enough money. You can
press 'Start' on the controller when you're ready to go.
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ITEM DESCRIPTIONS {G1002}
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You can gain special items during the overhead stages, and they'll have a
definite impact on your ability to win the race and perhaps even put your
opponent out of permanent commission. Use them to their fullest.
CASH
This upgrade is just what you would expect. Driving over the top of it
instantly places money in your account, which is important in case you crash.
Always remember that you lose $500 each time you crash--as does your opponent-
-so sometimes there's nothing more important than a bit of cash. As a side
note, hitting any cow will litter the field ahead with cash icons for a short
while. The best time to do this is after your opponent has gone bankrupt from
hitting a tree or running afoul of your sawblade attack. Then you can keep
all the money for yourself!
NITRO
These are fairly common throughout the course, and you can carry around as
many as you can equip. They give you a short quick burst and come in handy
mostly when you know a race is about to end. They're also good for moving
again in a hurry if you let yourself slow down in muck, and they'll pull you
out of the ravines in some of the later stages rather quickly.
SAWBLADE
This item will cause a rotating saw blade to extent from the front of your
truck for a period of several valuable seconds. During that period, you can
brush up against the back of your competitor to do steady damage to his
truck's armor. Usually, a truck will try to pull free of this. With computer
controlled opponents, it's easy to use the technique to force them into a
grove of trees, then rush ahead with some nitro so that their truck explodes.
Yeah!
SHIELD
This one looks like a tile with a screw on each of its four corners. When you
use it, you'll start flashing and making 'blooping' noises, and the sawblade
your opponent might be using will no longer inflict any sort of damage to your
life meter.
SPRINGS
These look like a row of ammunition on an old gun belt. When you use one,
you'll fly into the air over obstacles like short fences and some trees, and
possibly over the head of your opponent if he's just in front of you and
crowding you away from where you need to be. The item is seldom useful, but
when you need to get ahead in a hurry, there's no better way.
WRENCH
If you've taken damage but you're not quite done for, grab a wrench. It will
instantly restore any damage you've lost. It's mostly only useful if you've
been bumping into a lot of fences (which would mean you're a bit of a dork) or
if you're opponent has been taking his saw to your backside (which would make
him vicious and competitive). This item is actually rather rare and tends to
be guarded on one side by wooden railings and by trees on the other. At
least, that's where it always seems to be when I need it.
The most important items really are the nitros and the cash. Nitrous will let
you win a race you might otherwise lose, while the cash is important if only
because you don't want your opponent to grab it. Never go out of your way for
anything like a sawblade, since they're plentiful in most stages. Just be
patient, try to trick your opponent into ramming into trees, and have a good
time!
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VEHICLE UPGRADES {G1003}
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When it comes time to take part in the actual competitions, the truck with the
biggest tires and the best gears is the one that's most likely to win. At the
same time, fully improving your truck will cost $6000 the first time you do
it, and keeping up on parts can be a costly proposition after hill climbs.
ENGINE ($800)
This upgrade affects your speed in the most obvious fashion, of course. With
the big engine, you can get off to an early start and that will keep your
truck's areas from faltering. For example, a tractor pull goes very poorly if
you don't get off to a good start, and the same is true to an extent of the
hill climbs. You'll find that the computer looks at this upgrade first.
There's a reason for that.
TIRES ($600)
You might think to yourself that tires don't matter much, but they really do.
Tires are important when you're crushing rows of cars and it's important
especially on hill climbs. If you have tiny tires, you won't make it much of
anywhere and your truck will go rolling backwards down the hill. You don't
want that, since weakened tires are more susceptible to even further
breakdown.
GEARBOX ($400)
The variety of events means that sometimes you'll need to switch gears a lot.
For example, the tractor pull starts to wear you down near the end. You can't
always keep your engine pushing its hardest, so the ability to change gears on
a dime is useful and important if you don't want to damage your truck's parts.
If a hill climb isn't going your way, a gearbox might just save the day.
Maybe.
SHOCKS ($200)
These parts are mostly important during the car crush events. If you don't
have good suspension, you'll bounce all over the place as each pile of junk
crumbles beneath you. That'll affect your top speed. You don't want anything
to get in the way of a steady, even approach to crushing cars. Anywhere there
are small hills or cars, you want good suspension.
My tips on the above parts match my experience, but yours might vary depending
on how you play. This FAQ is assuming that you like my approach to winning-
one that has proven successful for me on numerous occasions and has driven
many a human opponent to the brink of madness--so keep it all firmly in mind
the next time you race.
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WALKTHROUGH {W0001}
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The game sends you through a gauntlet of overhead races and side-scrolling
tournament events. This walkthrough will give general tips on conquering each
area, but the greatest tip is to use your head. Bigfoot really is a simple
game when it comes right down to it. In fact, some of the most fun you can
have from the game comes when you challenge yourself to see how many of your
computer-controlled opponents you can put out of business. Just don't give
yourself too fully to that task, or you might go broke yourself!
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RACE TO MESA {W1001}
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This is a good place to get a feel for how the overhead areas will work. From
the starting line, you want to stay just slightly ahead of your competitor,
not so far ahead that you're near the top of the screen, but just over halfway
up. You also want to stick mostly to the center of the course. The reason
for this is that it allows you to hit the various gates. They look like
toothpicks with wads of paper on the end, stuck into the ground. Each
consecutive one you hit increases in value, until each is worth $500. You
don't want your rival getting that cash. If he interrupts your streak even
once, you have to start over.
Besides the mad dash for cash, you'll also find a lot of sawblades. They're
great for draining your opponent's health, but don't let yourself concentrate
so much on sticking it to him that you forget about the gates or wind up
smashing into trees. You want those things to happen to your rival, not you.
The course is rather unremarkable as a whole. Note that when you start seeing
a lot of shallow streams of water, you're almost to the end. It's time to
start using those nitrous boosts to streak across the finish line ahead of
your opponent (if he's ahead of you). Take the lead and don't lose it during
the final stretch!
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MESA CAR CRUNCH {W1002}
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This event is really just an introduction to the more challenging events that
will lie ahead. You're going to learn some things here that you'll put into
practice in later events.
For starters, don't head over the starting line until the light properly
turns. As it does, start alternating like mad between the 'left' and 'right'
buttons and hold down 'B' to use your super acceleration. After a second or
so, you should be able to press 'A' to shift up and then shift up again (if
you try to shift too soon, before your accelerator has reached a sufficient
point, you'll just do the opposite of what you want and shift down!). If
you've learned to shift properly, you'll basically burn through the course in
no time flat, but make sure that you release the 'B' button as necessary when
your engine is threatening to overheat.
Naturally, the only exception should be when you are neck-and-neck with an
opponent and you have the cash to afford another engine piece. Then, it's
every man for himself as you both race to finish first. Just don't spend more
than you'll win from the cash pot unless your primary concern is keeping your
rival from snagging any prize money. If he's broke from buying parts, you can
easily make him go bust at the start of the next overhead race, after all...
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RACE TO RENO {W1003}
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This race is a lot like the other one, but it does seem to last a lot longer
and there are more of the gates to pass through. Not only that, but they
spread themselves out on the course a bit more, which means you'll likely have
more difficulty keeping your opponent from running across at least one along
the way.
Another complication is the increased abundance in cash that litters the road.
Between the gate and the money, you'll likely have a hard time preventing your
wily opponent from picking up some money. Otherwise, the course is fairly
nondescript. It's just a good way to fatten your wallet before the next race.
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RENO MUD RACE {W1004}
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Mud races aren't much different from car crushing events. The difference is
that they tend to slow you down a bit more when you're in the middle of a pit
of brown muck. The same tricks that worked before will serve you well here
again, except now keeping your acceleration going by alternating presses of
the 'left' and 'right' buttons is of paramount importance.
If you play right, note that you can also get your opponent to burn through
one of his engines. This is a neat trick, especially if you can manage it
during three legs of the race. If you're confident you can win, you'll soon
find that a great way to wear down a rival is to lose the middle race on
purpose. That gives him more time to damage his truck. You can laugh as he
loses tires and engine power, then finish the third round and claim the prize
money while he weeps (virtually, of course, since he's just a computer or your
manly best friend) over his loss.
Note that the mud race is longer than the car crushing event you faced last
time, so you'll find a pit stop. If you fail to reach the fuel stop, you
can't finish the race. That mostly just happens if you let yourself become
bogged up in mud. So, uh... don't. Avoid any such problems by remembering to
accelerate quickly, though because the race is longer you'll want to keep a
more watchful eye on your engine temperature. It's not difficult to burn
through a few engines here if you're not paying attention, something you can't
afford to do at this early stage in the game.
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RACE TO YAKIMA {W1005}
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The nitrous items are a lot scarcer in this particular race, which should make
it a neck-and-neck sort of affair just when you need that sort of event the
least: right before the Yakima hill climb.
The Yakima hill climb will take a lot out of you and your opponent both, so
your greatest focus should be simply snagging all of those gates (you know,
the gaps that look like they're Q-Tips placed side by side). Try not to miss
them and don't worry too much about grabbing all of the cash unless doing so
won't prevent you from snagging that all-important next gate.
You should also make sure that you're in a good position to sweep across the
finish line in first place, so save any nitrous you do manage to grab for that
last leg of the race. Also, it's pretty easy to get your opponent to crash
against a group of trees once or twice in the race, and you should be able to
pick up a sawblade item if you want to inflict some serious pain that way.
Just remember, as always, that crashing your opponent a few times won't do any
good if you let him bag a bunch of cash by passing through the gates ahead of
you.
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YAKIMA HILL CLIMB {W1006}
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If you didn't manage to come in first on the race to Yakima, you're really
going to be hurting after paying an admittance fee. The hill climb event is
the most expensive in the game, since your engine and tires both really take a
beating as you struggle to reach the top of the hill first.
If you aren't going into the hill climb with a fully energized truck--and
particularly if your opponent is--then there's not much point in competing at
all. Even if you're only crawling along, your tires wear down quickly and so
does your engine. Even rolling backward if your rival finishes ahead of you
causes damage to your vehicle. In short, winning that $1000 will likely cost
you several times that in parts even if you're being as careful as possible.
If you want to win and have the money to spend, then the trick is to just keep
going as fast as possible. As the needle on your engine gets near the boiling
point, you can let it drop a bit, but never slack off enough that your truck
starts to roll backwards or you'll be in for a world of hurt. Note that even
if you're not boosting, your engine can still overheat in this ridiculous
event. Expect to lose a tire and engine in each leg of the race, and possibly
more if you're not playing wisely. The good news is that the same will happen
to your opponent...
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RACE TO FARGO {W1007}
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This raceway is marked by a lot more shrubbery than those you've encountered
in the past. A favorite trick of mine is to find one of the big bits of
forestation, then slow down to a crawl just short of it. Your opponent is
likely to slowly drift ahead of you, then bang repeatedly against the forest.
When he crashes to bits, he'll reappear shortly, but the computer spawns him
over the top of the forest. If you play it right, you can get rid of three or
four trucks that way, at a hefty cost to your enemy.
Otherwise, the track isn't much to talk about. You will find some of the
steep, pale banks you can race up with nitro boosts, but those can also be
driven around and there are plenty of the spring items that allow you to fly
up and over them with little trouble at all. Those nitro boosts I mentioned
also happen to be more plentiful, so you can use them sparingly throughout the
race when you need to reach a gate first, and you can also boost like crazy
for the final leg of the race that takes you to the finish line.
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FARGO TRACTOR PULL {W1008}
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The tractor pull event can either be incredibly simple or impossibly
difficult, depending on how you play it. The trick really is to start out
with a steady rush. Shift almost immediately while holding the 'B' button to
use your turbo, then shift again as soon as possible so that you're in the top
gear. This will allow you to come within 10 or 20 yards of the finish line.
As your engine temperature creeps up to its maximum point, go ahead and let go
of turbo. Then just rely on regular engine power to carry you across the
finish line. This is an easy event to win when played like that, and it
shouldn't cost you any parts.
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RACE TO PUEBLO {W1009}
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Racing to Pueblo is refreshingly simple. The biggest thing to keep in mind is
that most of the money-yielding stakes you want to hit lie along the course's
right side, while most of the cows seem to hang out to the left. Even though
cash prizes are tempting, those stakes will ultimately give you more money
than you'll earn by going out of your way to strike a cow. This is especially
true because when you do manage to hit a cow--something that's often
dangerous, given where the bovines tend to gather--your rival will boost
forward, collecting most of the money and moving so fast that you can't
(often, he'll also cause you to crash into a tree).
Aside from hitting the stakes, there's not much to worry about on this leg of
the race. There are no severe threats with which to concern yourself and the
race itself seems surprisingly short. There also are plenty of nitrous
pickups, so that you don't have to be stingy with them. You're likely to see
the highway coming at you before you even expect it. When it does, you're
more than likely to have enough nitrous to sweep into the lead (if you aren't
wisely there already) and cross the finish line ahead of your competition.
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PUEBLO CAR CRUNCH {W1010}
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You might think you've tackled car crunches just fine in the past, and you're
probably right, but you haven't tackled the Pueblo car crunch event. This one
is a lot longer than the previous one, and it has an added wrinkle: plenty of
mud.
Racing through this course and coming through in first place will quite
possibly demand that you burn through an engine part. Your rival seems rather
stupid on that count, and isn't afraid to wreak havoc on his truck's health if
it means he has a better chance at the cash prize. Worse, even normal engine
efforts can cause you to overheat when you're not paying attention, due to all
of the mud.
The course also is long enough that you'll come across a pit stop for fuel, so
count on that. As usual, you'll do best if you maintain the highest speed
possible, but don't let your engine overheat unless you absolutely must. And
if it has to happen, well, let it happen. The worst thing you can do is panic
because an engine is about to burst while you're climbing a hill at a steady
clip or what have you. That's the quickest way to lose a race.
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RACE TO TULSA {W1011}
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This is a fairly straight-forward rush for the finish line, complete with a
lot of the stakes you can drive over for cash prizes. They're spaced all over
the course, so there's not a lot you can do here except stay ahead of your
opponent.
You'll particularly want to stay ahead when you know the course is winding
down. Your sign to take the lead is when you see the trees boxed in by square
fences along the center of the path. A few short seconds later, you'll start
to see shallower streams appearing. When you see the wooden bridge, start
using nitrous like they're going out of style. The highway stretch to the
finish line begins immediately after said bridge.
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TULSA TRACTOR PULL {W1012}
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As you have perhaps come to expect, this version of the tractor pull differs
from its predecessor in that the earth is apparently made of sturdier stuff.
The simple translation? You can burn through an engine part if you're not
careful.
It's rather ridiculous, really, but whatever. Just use the same strategy that
served you so well before. By this stage in the game, you probably have
enough money that you don't have to worry too much over the occasional burnt
out engine. But if you are worried about that, just stop using your turbo
boost once you're around 2/3 of the way up the temperature gauge. I've found
that if you go much higher, you'll lose the engine part by the end of the race
even if you're not boosting at all.
Since your opponent is unlikely to be taking this particular event all that
seriously, you should be able to win pretty easily and claim those valuable
prize points.
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RACE TO JACKSON {W1013}
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The race to Jackson is a fairly simply affair by now, and isn't particularly
ripe with opportunities to coerce your rival into a crash in the foliage. In
fact, for the most part this is just a cluttered course without a lot in the
way of forestation.
Most of the stakes seem to be on the right side or middle, though the second
set is to the left side of the screen and then the right in a quick, odd
sweep. Staying to the right won't allow you to get all of the stakes, but it
should prevent your rival from setting up a money-yielding streak. That's
about all you want to do right now (while filling your own bank). A hill
climb is coming up, and you already know how costly those are from your
experience outside of Yakima.
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JACKSON HILL CLIMB {W1014}
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This hill climb event is a little bit longer than its predecessor, and what
that actually means is that the best way to win without taking much damage is
to ignore your other gears and turbo boosts altogether. In fact, doing so
will not only give you a good chance of crossing the finish line in first
place, but will also give you a good chance of doing so without burning
through an engine part.
You'll still damage your tires, though. That simply can't be avoided. In
fact, expect to lose two of them. Your opponent is likely to lose at least as
much if he's controlled by the computer, and probably even more if your friend
happens to be holding the other controller.
There's really no more advanced strategy for this hill climb, but the good
news is that you simply don't need one. In some ways, it's an easier contest
than the one in Yakima!
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RACE TO UNION {W1015}
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By now, you're probably used to courses like this one. There aren't a lot of
trees and there isn't a lot of anything that will cause you to stand up and
take note. Perhaps the only noteworthy item at all is the same one that has
likely caused you to pay attention before: those stakes.
At this point, the computer-controlled opponent seems to be particularly adept
at staying in the lead and sweeping past the stakes just before you can.
Fortunately, you can prevent him from doing so by picking up a lot of the
sawblade items. When you have a blade buzzing ahead of your truck, your rival
tends to veer either to the right or left. It's a good way to make him run
into trees (when available) or simply to steer clear of the gates. Just make
sure you stay close enough to be intimidating and don't miss the cash and
nitrous pickups, either. You'll need them to sweep down that final bit of
highway for the prize money.
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UNION MUD RACE {W1016}
----------------------
After the hill climb at Jackson, you're going to be down a few parts.
Naturally, you'll want to repair them here with whatever money you can manage.
You're in for one of the longest courses in the game.
Mud races always stink because the mud slows you down so much, and here you'll
find extended mud bogs. Make sure that right from the start, you build up
your speed so that you can shift into your highest gear and blaze through the
mud. If you take a slower approach, your opponent will leave you tasting his
exhaust.
Probably the biggest surprise is how often your engines burn out of you on
this course. In fact, you run the very real risk of losing all four engines.
Don't let that happen, no matter what. You certainly won't win if you slow to
a halt just short of a finish line or a hill and find that your engine is
completely gone. Note also that there are two fuel stops along the way in
this race. If you haven't reached the second one and you're already down to
your last engine, you know you're doing something wrong.
A winning strategy is going to demand that you burn through around two of your
engines. You simply can't go any slower, or else you'll run out of fuel and
the rival truck will easily claim a safe win. If you're not in a position
where you have to build up points, this might be a good race to just idle at
the starting line while your rival burns through his tires and engines.
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RACE TO NEW YORK {W1017}
------------------------
This is your final overhead race, and it's a fun one just because you know the
race is about to come to an end. It also happens to be a good one to use if
you want to push your current opponent into bankruptcy. Assuming he had as
much trouble with that mud race as you did, his cash flow should be extremely
minimal. There also are plenty of trees and fences you can use to your
advantage here, and not as many convenient gates as there were in past
courses. In short, it's the perfect place to be a bully.
Beyond that, I'm afraid I don't have any other notes for success. There are
only a few cows, mostly positioned along the left side, and by now you
probably don't need money at all. If you play your cards right, you can
arrive at the finish line while your opponent is in pretty sorry shape,
perhaps bad enough shape that he can't afford the entry fee to the final
event.
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NEW YORK DRAG RACE {W1018}
--------------------------
If you have much money at all, there's not really any reason to proceed with
much caution here. At the same time, a full-on turbo approach isn't
necessary.
The best way to succeed is to maintain a steady pace. Save your turbo boost
for the flat stretches and make sure you're in the highest gear during those
times. When you come over the hills, that's the time to slow your cruising
just a bit. The cars here seem to bounce you around a bit more than they
should. You even run the (likely) risk of losing some shocks. That's how
rough the tournament drag race is.
I'd tell you to just speed through the whole course, but it's too long. Like
the mud race in Union, this course has two fueling points. Fortunately,
there's not quite as much mud. That means that prudent but aggressive driving
will allow you to easily take the lead and maintain it throughout the race.
This isn't all that difficult an event to win. When the event ends, so does
the game. You've either won (if you have more total points than your rival)
or lost (if you don't). Enjoy the weaksauce ending (you don't even get to see
closing credits), then play again!
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FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS {C0004}
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Q: How do you drive the stupid trucks?
A: You have to press the 'left' and 'right' buttons on the D-pad, one after
the other. Repeatedly pressing them serves the same function as pressing the
gas pedal in simpler games. It's an odd design choice, certainly, but it
works.
Q: Who are my computer-controlled opponents?
A: First comes the Growler. He's green and stupid. Then comes the Charger,
who is more aggressive and yellow. Next you'll face the Charger and the
Terminator. I'm afraid I haven't gotten beyond those two. At least, not that
I can recall.
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS {C0005}
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No one has helped me to make this particular FAQ, since I was the first to
write anything for the game over on GameFAQs. That's sort of the reason I
wrote this. I'll update if anyone contributes anything later, though.
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CONTACT/COPYRIGHT/LEGAL {C0006}
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If you need to reach me for any issues not properly addressed within the body
of this FAQ, you are welcome to send me an e-mail at jasonventer[_at_]yahoo{-
dot-}com (make the obvious changes). Please make sure that the subject of
your e-mail makes clear its intent so that it is not deleted as spam; I
receive literally hundreds of messages each day.
Now for the legal stuff. First, know that this FAQ is copyrighted material
and was from the moment I first placed it online. It was originally written
for my site, HonestGamers. Please check it out if you haven't recently. I
also contribute most FAQs that I write to GameFAQs. Are you interested in
posting it on your site? That's fantastic! I wrote it to help people, after
all. You have my permission to use this FAQ until such time as you receive
contrary notice from myself, provided you adhere strictly to the following
terms:
You must store the FAQ on your own servers and you must make all reasonable
efforts to ensure that you always host the most updated version. When placing
this FAQ on your site, please make sure that you grab the version available on
one of the following two sites, which are always going to be the ones kept up
to date:
HonestGamers (
http://www.honestgamers.com)
GameFAQs (
http://www.gamefaqs.com)
Additionally, users may not be charged to access this FAQ content. I wrote
it, so if anyone should receive payment it's me. It must always be free or
you can't host it. Note also that you are prohibited from modifying this
contact/copyright/legal section of the FAQ by even a single character. It
must remain in place and be easily accessible. If you feel that the above
terms are disagreeable and would like to discuss other terms on an individual
basis, you have my e-mail address. You may also follow the 'Contact' link on
my site, HonestGamers, if you prefer.
Finally, please remember as always that this game, its characters, logos,
artwork, audio, scenarios and all other attributes are the property of their
registered copyright holders. If you have any questions about the developer
or publisher, you are encouraged to visit the appropriate web sites, as
available. I make no claim to the intellectual property contained within and
reserve rights only as pertain to this body of text, nor do I guarantee that
the information within is completely correct. By viewing this page, you agree
that you will not hold me or any sites that display this content responsible
for any damage real or imagined that may arise from proper or improper
adherence to the instructions and terms within.
Copyright 2007 Jason Venter
This may be not be reproduced under any circumstances except for personal,
private use. It may not be placed on any web site or otherwise distributed
publicly except as outlined above. Use of this guide on any other web site or
as a part of any public display is strictly prohibited, and a violation of
copyright.
