Introduction
Introduction Statistics Contact Development Disclaimer Help
Return Create A Forum - Home
---------------------------------------------------------
Suzuki Quadracer HQ
https://suzukiquadracerhq.createaforum.com
---------------------------------------------------------
*****************************************************
Return to: Tech Talk - Electrical
*****************************************************
#Post#: 49704--------------------------------------------------
L500 LED AC to DC Light System NO Battery??
By: Glamisrider Date: January 25, 2016, 3:21 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
Trying to make my LED headlight & lighted Whip work good on the
stock lighting system WITHOUT running a battery and heavily
modifying the system. I could use someone with real electrical
system knowledge to verify what I think I know or don't know and
answer some general questions on the LT500 electrical system.
General Questions:
1) How many watts does the stock lighting coils produce at 3K,
5K, 6K?
2) How many volts does the stock lighting coils put out at idle?
3) How many watts does the stock tail light with standard
incandescent bulb pull?
LED Light & Load Specific Questions:
Headlight:
Currently I am running a Chris G, 6" double row LED light bar in
the front. It's 12 3W LEDs and it's rated for 9V-36V DC, Amps
is 2.2@12V & 1.2A@24V. I've ran this light direct from the
stator 12V A/C on the "high" yellow wire for 2 years and it
works BUT it does strobe depending on the RPMS, the higher the
RPMs the faster it strobes, until you really can't notice it
strobing. I was thinking about putting a diode bridge rectifier
to turn the the A/C signal in to DC.
Questions:
1) Will this stop the strobing?
2) Will a full signal bridge rectifier increase the volts to the
light? If so by what percentage?
Lighted Whip:
I have made 2 300 LED lighted whips that are rated at 25 Watts,
12V DC, both LED light strings stopped working after
approximately 2 to 6 hours of use and they are wired in to the
tail light leads (Not sure if they stopped due to physical
damage or electrical system incompatibility issues).
Questions:
1) If I put a full signal bridge rectifier before the lighted
whip, will it increase the DC amps above the 12v A/C signal
coming from the stock voltage regulator?
Entire System:
1) If I'm running this headlight at 36Watts, the Lighted Whip at
25 watts, and a stock tail light I'll be at approximately 71
Watts. Since I am reaching what I believe is the watt limits of
the system (55-60W, I could be wrong) will this increase the
amps as there is not enough watts to push the electrical signal,
to a point I'll over heat or burn up the system/ coils?
Hopefully I was clear on all of my questions, if not let me know
where I was not and I'll try to clarify best I can.
Thanks
#Post#: 49706--------------------------------------------------
Re: L500 LED AC to DC Light System NO Battery??
By: Rogue1970 Date: January 25, 2016, 4:11 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
I'll try to answer some that I know of....
[quote author=Glamisrider link=topic=4483.msg49704#msg49704
date=1453756874]
General Questions:
1) How many watts does the stock lighting coils produce at 3K,
5K, 6K?
2) How many volts does the stock lighting coils put out at idle?
3) How many watts does the stock tail light with standard
incandescent bulb pull?
[/quote]
[list type=decimal]
[li]Stock lighting coils output 80watts max. I only seem to
remember this is above 4k RPM or so.[/li]
[li]I've only measured the stock lighting circuit (regulated)
and it varied between 13volts to 17volts around idle.
[/li]
[li]Stock tail light is an 1156 bulb base that is rated for 5
watts.[/li]
[/list]
[quote author=Glamisrider link=topic=4483.msg49704#msg49704
date=1453756874]
LED Light & Load Specific Questions:
Headlight:
Questions:
1) Will this stop the strobing?
2) Will a full signal bridge rectifier increase the volts to the
light? If so by what percentage?
[/quote]
[list type=decimal]
[li]Good question. It might. I believe that the strobe effect
is due to the Alternating Current IMO.[/li]
[li]Out of my scope of knowledge.[/li]
[/list]
[quote author=Glamisrider link=topic=4483.msg49704#msg49704
date=1453756874]
Lighted Whip:
Questions:
1) If I put a full signal bridge rectifier before the lighted
whip, will it increase the DC amps above the 12v A/C signal
coming from the stock voltage regulator?
[/quote]
[list type=decimal]
[li]Sorry don't know this either. I just removed the stock
regulator and added a regulator/rectifier for my battery and
lights.[/li]
[/list]
[quote author=Glamisrider link=topic=4483.msg49704#msg49704
date=1453756874]
Entire System:
1) If I'm running this headlight at 36Watts, the Lighted Whip at
25 watts, and a stock tail light I'll be at approximately 71
Watts. Since I am reaching what I believe is the watt limits of
the system (55-60W, I could be wrong) will this increase the
amps as there is not enough watts to push the electrical signal,
to a point I'll over heat or burn up the system/ coils?
[/quote]
IMO, trying to run this much of a load without a battery will
tax the stator/lighting coils. My 12volt battery provides an
electrical buffer to the stator.
My friend has picked up the new Baja Designs 9k lumens Squadron
XL Pro light. This draws 80 watts. He has a Ballistic battery
and initial testing shows it works. Long term... I don't know.
I've melted a set of the 130 watt lighting coils mounted to a
stock stator. Looking back now, it could of been caused by my
poor ground on my initial build in 2010. I was running a 4k HID
light at the time.
Good luck with your endeavor #1>
#Post#: 49707--------------------------------------------------
Re: L500 LED AC to DC Light System NO Battery??
By: zillafreak Date: January 25, 2016, 6:21 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
[quote]General Questions:
1) How many watts does the stock lighting coils produce at 3K,
5K, 6K?
2) How many volts does the stock lighting coils put out at idle?
3) How many watts does the stock tail light with standard
incandescent bulb pull?
LED Light & Load Specific Questions:
Headlight:
Currently I am running a Chris G, 6" double row LED light bar in
the front. It's 12 3W LEDs and it's rated for 9V-36V DC, Amps
is 2.2@12V & 1.2A@24V. I've ran this light direct from the
stator 12V A/C on the "high" yellow wire for 2 years and it
works BUT it does strobe depending on the RPMS, the higher the
RPMs the faster it strobes, until you really can't notice it
strobing. I was thinking about putting a diode bridge rectifier
to turn the the A/C signal in to DC.
Questions:
1) Will this stop the strobing?
2) Will a full signal bridge rectifier increase the volts to the
light? If so by what percentage?
Lighted Whip:
I have made 2 300 LED lighted whips that are rated at 25 Watts,
12V DC, both LED light strings stopped working after
approximately 2 to 6 hours of use and they are wired in to the
tail light leads (Not sure if they stopped due to physical
damage or electrical system incompatibility issues).
Questions:
1) If I put a full signal bridge rectifier before the lighted
whip, will it increase the DC amps above the 12v A/C signal
coming from the stock voltage regulator?
Entire System:
1) If I'm running this headlight at 36Watts, the Lighted Whip at
25 watts, and a stock tail light I'll be at approximately 71
Watts. Since I am reaching what I believe is the watt limits of
the system (55-60W, I could be wrong) will this increase the
amps as there is not enough watts to push the electrical signal,
to a point I'll over heat or burn up the system/ coils?
Hopefully I was clear on all of my questions, if not let me know
where I was not and I'll try to clarify best I can.
Thanks[/quote]
1) Not 100% but 80 watts sounds right. I have found aftermarket
stators at 130watt. You can always get your stock one rewound
for more watts.
2) After the regulator, it should be around 13-15VAC, but they
all vary.
3) Rogue got that.
1) Strobing is due to the AC turning off and on (switching the
way electric goes. A simple diode will not fix this as it. A
full bridge rectifier will help. The flickering will actually
destroy the LED fast. Get this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Universal-Rectifier-Converts-12V-AC-to-12V-DC-Vo…
Also a little 12VDC rc battery will help with any strobing.
2) No, a full bridge will normally convert 12VAC to 12VDC. Some
can increase voltage but they are combined with something else.
1) Amps = Wattage / Volts. Also, normally you lose wattage going
from AC to DC. IIRC it is around 20% lose. So 80 watts will
become around 65 watts.
#Post#: 49708--------------------------------------------------
Re: L500 LED AC to DC Light System NO Battery??
By: Gillio Date: January 25, 2016, 7:27 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
A capacitor wired in will keep it from strobing. Look for a
capacitor out of a skidoo SDI non electric start. They are good
sized and probably pretty cheap used
#Post#: 49709--------------------------------------------------
Re: L500 LED AC to DC Light System NO Battery??
By: Glamisrider Date: January 25, 2016, 8:09 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
[quote author=ZillaFreak link=topic=4483.msg49707#msg49707
date=1453767663]
1) Amps = Wattage / Volts. Also, normally you lose wattage going
from AC to DC. IIRC it is around 20% lose. So 80 watts will
become around 65 watts.
[/quote]
If I did this I would put two full wave bridge rectifiers one on
the front light yellow wire and one for the tail light wire
which includes the lighted whip. The 20% reduction would occur
after each bridge rectifier so the 36W head light would then
require43.2 watts and the 5w tail light & the 25watt whip would
pull 36 watts for a total of 79.2 watts required.
[quote author=ZillaFreak link=topic=4483.msg49707#msg49707
date=1453767663]
A simple diode will not fix this as it. A full bridge rectifier
will help.[/quote]
They make different types of bridge rectifiers, a diode based
and a silicone chip based one, both are bridge rectifiers with
full wave rectified.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diode_bridge
Doing the math on this system at 12V would yield 6.6 Amps
(79.2/12), stock system is about 60W/12V = 5 Amps (55W
headlight + 5W tail light).
Does anybody know if 6.6 Amps would melt the stock system?
I've also heard you can get a 95% efficiency full wave bridge
rectifier, any truth to this?
If so that would reduce my wattage intake to 69.30W & 5.78 amps
@12V and with a LED tail light bulb I could get it down to 65W &
5.43 Amps @12v Which I think would work on the stock system
without a battery?
Also what gauge wire is the wiring system built out of? 14ga?
I can check amp rating by gauge size.
#Post#: 49710--------------------------------------------------
Re: L500 LED AC to DC Light System NO Battery??
By: Q2W Date: January 25, 2016, 9:58 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
i met a guy at the dunes that had a honda 250r switched to DC.
He told me he called up Ricky Stator and they built him a custom
rectifier complete with instructions to install to the stock
system. May be worth calling them up and picking their brain.
#Post#: 49711--------------------------------------------------
Re: L500 LED AC to DC Light System NO Battery??
By: zrennek Date: January 25, 2016, 10:10 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
You could try a standard tympanium 4 wire(Easy to get) reg/rec
along with a large capacitor as a buffer instead of a battery.
These systems just are not meant to power a lot of light. I had
my 130w RS coils on an oem stator fail after about 4 years of
use. I'm now running a OEM stator with a small wheelchair led
acid battery (about 3lbs and around $30, is rated at 11 AH)
this battery is way smaller than your typical motorcycle
battery. The only good thing is it works (as you guys know it's
not that easy).
Rogue, I hope your friend set up works, but with a ballistic
battery it will be hard to tell when it's just running off the
battery or actually using the rectified output (you can test
with a digital VM). Not sure how the Li batt will like the
varying trickle charge from the bike. Fact is a light at the
wattage is pulling way more amp than the system can generate so
there is quite the loss going on there.
Just have to remember to keep everything connected while riding
in the daytime so it recharges.
Good Luck to everyone.
#Post#: 49712--------------------------------------------------
Re: L500 LED AC to DC Light System NO Battery??
By: Rogue1970 Date: January 26, 2016, 3:13 am
---------------------------------------------------------
Yep, I agree zrennek. I'll settle for my 'simple' 12v DC setup
with a 7ah motorcycle battery powering a 40watt LED light. Been
working fine since 2010.
Keep us in the loop Glamisrider on what you find out.
#Post#: 49730--------------------------------------------------
Re: L500 LED AC to DC Light System NO Battery??
By: Glamisrider Date: January 26, 2016, 11:33 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
If I was too install a single bridge rectifier that rectified
just the bright headlight (yellow wire) and the tail light,
where would be the place to write it in?
Thanks
#Post#: 49731--------------------------------------------------
Re: L500 LED AC to DC Light System NO Battery??
By: Rogue1970 Date: January 27, 2016, 12:01 am
---------------------------------------------------------
Looking at the wiring diagram (first image) from my old post:
http://www.suzukiquadracerhq.com/tech-talk-electrical/quadzilla-ledhid-lighting…
So, the yellow w/red tracer stator wire and the grey wire coming
off of the regulator provide power to your lighting components.
You should have access to the connector that is under the fuel
tank containing both wires. These wires go to the handlebar
light switch.
I'm not sure if this would work right since your changing half
of the AC connection. The lighting system uses two AC wires to
complete its circuit. You would now have a DC ?positive? (grey
wire) feeding the lighting components. The other wire is still
running AC, so would that make all your lights flicker on and
off as the AC cycles? I'm not sure.
Let us know what you find out buddy.
*****************************************************
Next Page
You are viewing proxied material from gopher.createaforum.com. The copyright of proxied material belongs to its original authors. Any comments or complaints in relation to proxied material should be directed to the original authors of the content concerned. Please see the disclaimer for more details.