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#Post#: 103178--------------------------------------------------
Bleeding brakes on Series IIA 109
By: mojave Rat Fink Date: August 28, 2020, 7:17 am
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https://pjveetwin.smugmug.com/Machines/Rover/i-mqGjLxv/A
https://pjveetwin.smugmug.com/Machines/Rover/i-LTndRWq/A
So still trying to figure out the picture thing, hope it's right
this time. So what do normal people do to bleed the master
cylinder when you don't have a major lift available? As we know,
the manual says to raise the front end until the master cylinder
is level in order to get all the air out. I use a small level to
be sure. and a motion pro pressure bleeder at around 10 psi.
Once around all the wheels is usually enough. For me, I can do
the whole process in 30 minutes or so. Still a major pain in the
arse.... >vom<
#Post#: 103208--------------------------------------------------
Re: Bleeding brakes on Series IIA 109
By: Sunny Jim Date: November 23, 2020, 4:06 pm
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I replaced the CB master cylinder in 1978 with a CV one - much
easier to bleed, no jacking required! I have a servo disk/drum
set up now with a Series 3 type servo/master cylinder. I
recently did an overhaul as the master cylinder was knocking 20
years old and used a Gunson's pressure bleeder - what a
difference! Bleeding the brakes was easy, it was jacking up and
getting the wheels off and on that was the pain.
I had to use a spare cap as there wasn't one big enough in the
kit - you just drill the cap as instructed - not a problem as I
used the one of the old cylinder. I used a spare wheel off my
Austin A40 (lighter to lift onto the wing) and used around 20psi
(maximum recommended pressure) but would use a lower pressure
next time - I think 10-15psi is ample. I just went round all the
nipples twice in order with just a few seconds flow at each
point. The second round was really just to check there was no
remaining air.
Sunny Jim
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