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Return to: Lionel Maintenance & Repair
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#Post#: 1679--------------------------------------------------
model train repair / diagnosing
By: payling Date: November 6, 2017, 3:28 pm
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Hi all,
First time to forums and new to model trains...
I inherited a box with an old O gauge train set from a family
member. My family member thinks the locomotive is broken because
he couldn't get the set running.
Having no experience at all with model trains I decided to see
if I could get it going...
As a quick test I hooked up the transformer to a single piece of
track and set the locomotive on it. The transformer's green
light glowed and I could hear an slight audible buzz when
adjusting the throttle? levers. The locomotive did not budge...
Trouble shooting thus far...
[list type=decimal]
[li]Used fine grit sand paper to clean rails + locomotive
contacts to ensure clean contact points.[/li]
[li]Verified connection between transformer terminals and rail
by multimeter. Common is going to outer rails and positive to
inner.[/li]
[li]Lubed locomotive gears using WD-40.[/li]
[/list]
None of this seemed to help.
I attempted to disassemble the locomotive to look for any
obvious faults. I removed the casing to find a missing screw and
some broken plastic pieces on the outer shell of the motor
casing. Looks like someone attempted to get in here before... I
wasn't able to dig further because I can't figure out how to
remove the wheels.
Any input is appreciated... What can I do?
Lionel Transformer type-zw
Lionel 1001 Scout - The engine casing says 1001 but google says
the locomotive shell that goes over 1001s are plastic.... mine
is metal... so I don't know? ???
#Post#: 1680--------------------------------------------------
Re: model train repair / diagnosing
By: TrainLarry Date: November 6, 2017, 9:29 pm
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The Scout motors that Lionel made, including the one you have,
were not really made to repair. Once the plastic casing is
broken, that's about it for the motor.
Even with an intact casing, getting all the internal pieces to
stay in proper position while putting the casing halves together
took 3 hands.
As for getting the wheels off, you will need to either drive the
axles out of the wheels with a punch, or use a wheel puller. I
tried both, resulting in broken casings. The plastic is very
brittle.
The 2034-100 metal motor is a replacement for the plastic motor
in the early Scout engines.
http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/cd/locos%5Cloc2034a.pdf
http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/cd/locos%5Cloc2034a.pdf
Larry
#Post#: 1681--------------------------------------------------
Re: model train repair / diagnosing
By: payling Date: November 7, 2017, 10:00 am
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Larry,
Taking the Scout motor apart sounds a bit too difficult for
me... Disappointing.
I decided to order suggested motor and required parts. I'll let
you know how the install goes, hopefully I'll have a running
locomotive!
Thanks for your help Larry!
#Post#: 2979--------------------------------------------------
Re: model train repair / diagnosing
By: Vince53 Date: August 31, 2022, 12:12 pm
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If I may make a friendly suggestion:
WD-40 is not a lubricant, although it is often used as one. It
helps dissolve grease, remove dirt, and remove rust. Obviously,
this will help a machine run better. But it is not designed as a
lubricant.
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