Dr Demented's Handbook
"It's Back.."
The Book for the Beginer Anarchist!
Revised and Edited
5/13/96
Disclaimer
----------
All information contained in this document are for educational/entertainment
purposes Only. Dr Demented his flamily gaurdians heirs, etc
disclaimes ALL responsibilities for your
[the reader's] actions and if you don't agree to these terms destroy this
document NOW !!!
A word from Dr Demented
-----------------------
Velcome to Version II of Dr Demented's Handbook
I am trying a new format this time, it's a One-Really-big-phile
as opposed to an 001.doc style system. This has lotsa junk including
box plans and a Chemical equvilency list...It is still not as big as
it could be, but I would rather leak this info in lots of files then
put it all out at once...well I hope you like this stuff...Anyways let
me just say that I have not personally tested [all] these yet. You must
see which one to try and which ones to leave alone. Basically this if fun
stuff for the beginer to intermidiate Hacker/Phreaker/Anarchist Advanced
terrorists should read Version I where It details things like tailing, advanced
boxes, survalence techniques, REALLY dangerous bombs, etc..
-Dr Demented '96
--- A PAINFUL PRANK ---
/==:==:==:==:==:==:==:==:==\
! Urine Box Plans ! ... new and improved! ...
\==:==:==:==:==:==:==:==:==/
Now at last, Underground_Elite brings you these
ultrasophisticated box plans for, well, uh, I guess we just kind
of bring them for you. After many months of keeping this puppy
secret, we here at Underground_Elite have inally come
to the consensus that the public oughtn't be kept in the dark
from the wrath of Ma Bell, that great telephone company in the
sky.
The Urine Box (tm) basically creates a capacitative disturbance
between the ring and tip wires in another's telephone headset. I
have utilized this to the distinct advantage of the operator of
the Urine box and to the disadvantage of the other party
involved, hopefully you won't get caught.
Without further a doo, wire this schematic together. Copper wire
(or gold) will work best due to its lessened resistance. It might
be a good idea to keep the wiring cooled, to further reduce
current loss.
47k ohms --------------- .01 uF
!\ !------/\/\/-----------! SPSTswitch !----!-----)!------!
! \ ! --------------- ! !
! !--! ! (+)!
! !----------<-!----!---------/\/\/------------! ----------
! / PVP diode! 470k ohms ! 12 VDC !
!/ ! _ ----------
! / .005 uF (-)!
SPKR 20W !------/\/\/\/\/---------)!---<-!--------!
! _/ VR1 (see note1) PVP diode !
! !
to RING to TIP
(your phone) (your phone)
note1 - VR1 is a three position variable resistor, enabling
settingsequivalent to 100k ohms, 210k ohms, and 320k ohms (all
110k apart).
Page 36
note2 - The diodes are silicon-germanium based bipolar RF
reducers to limit current polarity reversal. If these are placed
backwards the box will not work as intended.
note3 - The speaker will emit low tones when the SPST is closed
(ie the box is "ON") and when the settings of VR1 are moved to
higher resistance the tone level will increase.
note4 - Place setting evaluation symbols to represet the lowest
resistance setting for VR1 to be "STEAM", the second (210) to be
"MELT", the third (320) to be "VAPORIZE".
Usage of box.
Use in place of your normal telephone receiver. Do not attempt
usage as a regular phone. Call victim by sending tones through
speaker with tape recorded noise. Use touch tone sounds as pulse
requires electric disruption of line, not just audio. After
answer (listen in on SPKR 1) set VR1 to desired strength
and let her go. Victim will feel unpleasant sensations in his/her
head and will undergo a series of high intensity seizures, not
unlike epilepsy, and jointly proportional to VR-1 setting and
time induced.
Settings. (The Fun Part)
STEAM. A short -poof- of water vapor condenses within the
victim's earpiece, rendering the telephone short circuited and
the victim quite dazed.
MELT. Causes structural phase change of receiver (usually
reinforced urea-formal-dehyde plastic material - high tech).
As in urine?// \\Some kinda water shit I guess.
This has the unpleasant bonus of removing the victim's hand.
VAPORIZE. If the victim is particularly nasty, this setting will
remove his upper anatomy (if box is enabled properly, that is!).
Continued usage of this setting is generally not recommended, as
death or other serious injury will accompany.
Disclaimer.
Yes, I will refuse to take responsibility for your incompetence
in electrical doings. This includes my reluctance to give court
testimony, etc. etc.
Wolfgang von Albatross
Attorney at Law, ex Telco employee.
%+%+%+%+%+%+%+%+%+%+%+%+%+
%HOW TO BUILD A BLOTO BOX+ THE DEATH DEVICE!
%+%+%+%+%+%+%+%+%+%+%+%+%+
Finally, it is here! What was first conceived as a joke to fool
the inncoent phreakers around America has finally been concieved
by the one phreak who is the expert on lines and voltage: The
Traveler. Other boxes by the Traveler include the White Gold Box,
the Aqua Box, The Diverti Box, and the Cold Box. All of those
plans will soon be available in a BBS/AE near you!
Well, for you people who are unenlightened about the Blotto Box,
here is a brief summery of a legend.
--*-=> The Blotto Box <=-*--
For years now every pirate has dreamed of the Blotto Box. It
was at first made as a joke to mock more ignorant people into
thinking that the function of it actually was possible. Well, if
you are The Voltage Master, it is possible. Originally conceived
by King Blotto of much fame, the Blotto Box is finally available
to the public.
NOTE: The Traveler can not be responcable for the information
disclosed in the file! This file is strictly for informational
purposes and should not be actually built and used! Usage of this
electronical impulse machine could have the severe results listed
below and could result in high federal prosecution!
Again, The Traveler
TAKES NO RESPONCABILITY! <--Need an English tutor?
All right, now that that is cleared up, here is the basis of
the box and it's function.
The Blotto Box is every phreaks dream... you could hold AT&T
down on it's knees with this device. Because, quite simply, it
can turn off the phone lines everywhere. Nothing. Blotto. No
calls will be allowed out of an area code, and no calls will be
allowed in. No calls can be made inside it for that matter. As
long as the switchhing system stays the same, this box will not
stop at a mere area code. It will stop at nothing. The electrical
impulses that emit from this box will open every line. Every
line will ring and ring and ring... the voltage will never be cut
off until the box/ generator is stopped. This is no 200 volt job,
here. We are talking GENERATOR. Every phone line will continue to
ring, and people close to the box may be electricuted if they
pick up the phone.
But, the Blotto Box can be stopped by merely cutting of the
line or generator. If they are cut off then nothing will emit
any longer. It will take a while for the box to calm back down
again, but that is merely a superficial aftereffect. Once again:
Construction and use of this box is not advised! The Blotto Box
will continue as long as there is electricity to continue with.
OK, that is what it does, now, here are some interesting
things for you to do with it...
--*-=> The Blotto Box Functions and Installation <=-*--
Once you have installed your Blotto, there is no turning back.
The following are the instructions for construction and use of
this box. Please head and heed all warnings in the above section
before you attempt to construct this box.
Materials:
- A Honda portable generator or a main power outlet
like in a stadium or some such place.
- A radio shack cord set for 400 volts that splices
a female plug into a phone line jack.
- A meter of voltage to attach to the box itself.
- A green base (i.e. one of the nice boxes about 3'
by 4' that you see around in your neighborhood. They are the main
switch boards and would be a more effective line to start with.
or: A regular phone jack (not your own, and not in
your area code!
- A soudering iron and much souder.
- A remote control or long wooden pole.
Now. You must have guessed the construction from that. If not,
here goes,
I will explain in detail. Take the Honda Portable Generator
and all of the other listed equiptment and go out and hunt for a
green base. Make sure it is one on the ground or hanging at head
level from a pole, not the huge ones at the top of telephone
poles. Open it up with anything convienent, if you are
two feeble that fuck don't try this. Take a look inside... you
are hunting for color-coordinating lines of green and red. Now,
take out your radio shack cord and rip the meter thing off.
Replace it with the voltage eter about. A good level to set the
voltage to is about 1000 volts. Now, attach the voltage
meter to the cord and set the limit for one thousand. Plug the
other end of the cord into the generator. Take the phone jack and
splice the jack part off. Open it up and match the red and green
wires with the other red and green wires. NOTE: If you just had
the generator on and have done this in the correct order, you
will be a crispy critter. Keep the generator off until you
plan to start it up. Now, sauder those lines together carefully.
Wrap duck tape or insultation tape around all of the wires. Now,
place the remote control right on to the startup of the
generator. If you have the long pole, make sure it is very long
and stand back as far away as you can get and reach
the pole over. NOTICE: If you are going right along with this
without reading the file first, you sill realizd0now tHat your
area code is about to become null! Then, getting back, twitch the
pole/remote control and run for your damn life. Anywhere, just
get away from it. It will be generating so much electricity that
if you stand to close you will kill yourself. The generator
will smoke, etc. but will not stop. You are now killing your area
code, because all of that energy is spreading through all of the
phone lines around you in every direction.
Have a nice day!
--*-=> The Blotto Box: Aftermath <=-*--
Well, that is the plans for the most devastating and
ultimately deadly box ever created. My hat goes off to: King
Blotto (for the original idea),
Captain Xerox (for the suggestion about stadiums), and
Modern s}}x (for the fact I was on his BBS when I thought of it.
THE BEIGE BOX---------------------------A LINEMAN'S HANDSET
FREE CALLS!!!!
------------
INTRODUCTION
------------
Have you ever wanted a lineman's handset? Surely every
phreak has at least once considered the phun that he could have
with one. After searching unlocked phone company trucks for one
for months, we had an idea. We could build one. We did, and
named it the "Beige Box," simply because that is the color of
ours. In the following file we will give complete instructions
for the construction and use of a Beige Box.
------------
CONSTRUCTION
------------
The construction is very simple. First, you must
understand the concept of the device. In a modular jack, there
are four wires. These are red, green, yellow, and black. For a
single line telephone, however, only two matter: the red (ring)
and green (tip). The yellow and black are not necessary for this
project. A lineman's handset only has two clips on it: the ring
and the tip.
You will need a phone (we reccommend a touch-tone) with a
modular plug, a modular jack, and two large alligator clips
(preferably red and green, respectively). Take the modular jack
and look at the bottom of its casing. There should be a grey
jack with four wires (red, green, yellow, and black) leading out
of it. To the end of the red wire attach a red alligator clip.
To the end of the green wire attach a green alligator clip. The
yellow and black wires can be removed, although I would only set
them aside so that you can use the modular jack in future
projects. Now insert your telephone's modular plug into the
modular jack. That's it.
This particular model is nice because it can be easily
made, is inexpensive, uses common parts that are readily
available, is small, is lightweight, and does not require the
destruction of a phone.
Page 41
----- --- ----
BEIGE BOX USES
----- --- ----
There are many uses for the Beige Box. However, before
you can use it, you must know how to attach it to its output
device. This device can be any of several Bell switching
apparatus that include terminal sets (i.e., remote switching
centers, bridging heads, cans, etc.). To open most Bell
Telephone switching apparatus, you must have a 7/16 inch hex
driver. This piece of equipment can be picked up at your local
hardware store. With your 7/16 hex driver, turn the security
bolt(s) approximately 1/8 of an inch counter-clockwise and
open. If your output device is locked, then you must have some
knowledge of destroying and/or picking locks. However, we have
never encountered a locked output device. Once you have opened
your output device, you should see a mass of wires connected to
terminals. On most of your output devices, the terminals should
be labeled "T" (Tip -- if not labeled, it is usually on the left)
and "R" (Ring -- if not labeled, it is usually on the right).
Remember: Ring - red - right. The "Three R's" -- a simple way
to remember which is which.
Now you must attach the red alligator clip (ring) to the
"R" (ring) terminal. Attach the green alliagtor clip (tip) to
the "T" (tip) terminal. NOTE: If instead of a dial tone you
hear nothing, re-adjust the alligator clips so that they are not
touching each other or other terminals. Also make sure that they
are firmly attached. By this time you should hear a dial tone.
Dial ANI and find out the number that you are using (you wouldn't
want to use your own).
Here are some practical applications:
o Eavesdropping
o Long distance, static-free phone calls to
phriends
o Dialing direct to Alliance Conferencing (also
static-free)
o Phucking people over
o Bothering the operator at little risk to
yourself
o Blue Boxing with a greatly reduced chance of
getting caught
o Anything at all that you want, since you are
an extension on that line
Page 42
Eavesdropping:
-------------
To be most effective, first attach the Beige Box and then
your phone. This eliminates static caused by connecting the
box, therefore reducing the potential suspicion of your victim.
When eavesdropping, it is always best to be neither seen nor
heard. If you hear someone dialing out, do not panic; but rather
hang up, wait, and pick up the receiver again. The person will
either have hung up or tried to complete their call again. If
the latter is true, then listen in, and perhaps you will find
information worthy of blackmail! If you would like to know who
you are listening to, after dialing ANI, pull a CN/A on the
number.
Dialing Long Distance:
------- ---- --------
This section is self-explanatory, but don't forget to
dial a "1" before the NPA.
Dialing Direct to Alliance Conferencing:
------- ------ -- -------- ------------
Simply dial 0-700-456-1000 and you will get instructions
from there. I prefer this method over PBXs, since PBXs often
have poor reception and are more difficult to come by.
Phucking People Over:
-------- ------ ----
This is a very large topic for discussion. Just by using
the other functions described, you can create a large phone bill
for the person (they will not have to pay it, but it is a hassle
for them). In addition, since you are an extension of the
person's line, leave your phone off hook, and they will not be
able to make or recieve calls. This can be extremely nasty
because no one would suspect the cause of the problem.
Bothering the Operator:
--------- --- --------
This is also self-explanatory and can provide hours of
entertainment. Simply ask or say things to her that are
offensive and you would not like traced to your line. This also
Page 43
corresponds with the previous described section, Phucking People
Over. After all, guess who's line it gets traced to? He he
he...
Blue Boxing:
---- ------
See a file on Blue Boxing for more details. This is an
especially nice feature if you live in an ESS-equipped prefix,
since the calls are, once again, not traced to your line.
{{{As well as no true Blue Boxing being necessary. The
call is charged to someone else, no tones needed.}}}
--------- ----- -- ----- ------
POTENTIAL RISKS OF BEIGE BOXING
--------- ----- -- ----- ------
Overuse of the Beige Box may cause suspicions within the
Gestapo, and result in legal problems. Therefore, I would
recommend that you:
o Use more than one output device
o Choose a secluded spot to do your Beige Boxing
o Keep a low profile (i.e., do not post under your real
name on a public BBS concerning your accomplishments)
o In order to make sure that the enemy has not been
inside your ouput device, I reccomend that you place
a piece of transparent tape over the opening of your
output device.
Therefore, if it is opened in your absence, the tape
will be displaced and you will be aware of the fact
that someone has been intruding upon your territory.
/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/
/-/ /-/
/-/ The Aqua Box /-/
/-/ /-/ ANTI-LOCK IN
/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/
/-/ /-/ TRACE
/-/ Concept by: Captain Xerox /-/
/-/ /-/
/-/ Plans by: The Traveler /-/
/-/ /-/
/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/
Every true phreaker lives in fear of the dreaded F.B.I. 'Lock in
Trace.' For a long time, it was impossible to escape from the
lock in trace. This box does offer and escape route with simple
directions to it. This box is quite a simple concept, and almost
any phreaker with basic electronics knowledge can construct and
use it.
/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/
/-/ The Lock /-/
/-/ in Trace /-/
/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/
A lock in trace is a device used by the F.B.I. to lock into the
phone users location so that he can not hang up while a trace is
in progress. For those of you who are not familiar with the
concept of 'locking in', then here's a brief description.
The F.B.I. can tap into a conversation, sort of like a three-way
call connection. Then, when they get there, they can plug
electricity into the phone line. All phone connections are held
open by a certain voltage of electricity, that is why you
sometimes get static and faint connections when you are calling
far away, because the electricity has trouble keeping the line
up. What the lock in trace does is cut into the line and generate
that same voltage straight into the lines. That way, when you
try and hang up, voltage is retained. Your phone will ring just
like someone was calling you even after you hang up. (If you have
call waiting, you should understand better about that, for call
waiting intercepts the electricity and makes a tone that means
someone is going through your line. Then, it is a matter of which
voltage is higher. When you push down the receiver, then it
see-saws the electricity to the other side. When you have a
person on each line it is impossible to hang
up unless one or both of them will hang up. If you try to hang
up, voltage is retained, and your phone will ring. That should
give you an understanding of how calling works, also. When
Page 45
electricity passes through a certain point on your phone, the
electricity causes a bell to ring or on some newer phones an
electronic ring to sound.)
So, in order to eliminate the trace, you somehow must lower the
voltage level on your phone line. You should know that every
time someone else picks up the phone line, then the voltage does
decrease a little. In the first steps of planning this out, Xerox
suggested getting about a hundred phones all hooked into the
same line that could all be taken off the hook at the same time.
That would greatly decrease the voltage level. That is also why
most three-way connections that are using the bell service three
way calling which is only $3 a month) become quite faint after a
while.
By now, you should understand the basic idea. You have to drain
all of the power out of the line so the voltage can not be kept
up. I suddenly thought draining of power could quickly short out
the F.B.I. voltage machine, because it was only built to sustain
the exact voltage necessary to keep the voltage out.
For now, imagine this. One of the normal Radio Shack generators
that you can go pick up that one end of the cord that hooks into
the central box has a phone jack on it and the other has an
electrical plug. This way, you can "flash" voltage THROUGH the
line, but cannot drain it. So, some modifications have
to be done.
/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/
/-/ The Aqua Box /-/
/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/
Materials needed- a BEOC (Basic Electrical Output Socket), like
a small lamp type connection, where you just have a simple plug
and wire that would plug into a light bulb.
- One of cords mentioned above, if you can't find one
then construct your own... same voltage connection,
but the restrainer must be built in (i.e. the central
box)
- TWO phone jacks (one for the modem, one for if you are
being traced to plug the aqua box into)
- Some creativity and easy work.
NOTICE: No phones have to be destroyed/modified to make this
box, so don't go out and buy a new phone for it!
All right, this is a very simple procedure. If you have the
BEOC, it could drain into anything, a radio, or whatever. The
purpose of having that is you are going to suck the voltage out
from the phone line into the electrical applicence so there would
be no voltage left to lock you in with.
1)Take the connection cord. Examine the plug at the end. It
should have only two prongs, if it has three, still, do not fear.
Page 46
MAKE SURE THE ELECTRICAL APPLIANCE IS TURNED OFF unless you wanna
become a crispy critter while making this thing. Most plugs will
have a hard plastic design on the top of them to prevent you from
getting in at the electrical wires inside. Well, get a nice
one and remove it. If you want to keep the plug (I don't see
why...) then just cut the top off.
When you look inside, low and behold, you will see that at the
base of the prongs there are a few wires connecting in. Those
wires conduct the power into the appliance. So, you carefully
unwrap those from the sides and pull them out until they are
about and inch ahead of the prongs. If you don't wanna keep
the jack, then just rip the prongs out. If you are, cover the
prongs with insultation tape so they will not connect with the
wires when the power is being dvained from the line.
2)Do the same thing with the prongs on the other plug, so you
have the wires evenly connected. Now, wrap the end of the wires
around each other. If you happen to have the other end of the
voltage cord hooked into the phone, stop reading now, your too
fucking stupid to continue.
After you've wrapped the wires around each other, then cover the
whole thing with the plugs with insulating tape. Then, if you
built your own control box or if you bought one, then cram all
the wires into the box and reclose it. That box is your ticket
out of this.
3)Re-check everything to make sure it's all in place. This is a
pretty flimsy connection, but on later models when you get more
experienced at it then you can sauder{Solder, my friend} away at
it and form the whole device into one big box, with some kind of
cheap mattel hand-held game inside to be the power connector.
In order to use it, just keep this box handy. Plug it into the
jack if you want, but it will slightly lower the voltage so it
isn't connected. When you plug it in, if you see sparks, unplug
it and restart the WHOLE thing. But if it just seems fine then
leave it.
Page 47
/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/
/-/ Using it !! /-/
/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/
Now, so you have the whole thing plugged in and all... DO NOT
USE THIS UNLESS THE SITUATION IS DESPERATE! When the trace has
gone on, don't panic, unplug your phone, and turn on the
appliance that it was hooked to. It will need energy to turn
itself on, and here's a great source... the voltage to keep
a phone line open is pretty small and a simple light bulb should
drain it all in and probably short the F.B.I. computer at the
same time.
Happy boxing and stay free!
$$$$$$$$$$-=>Making Your Phone<=-$$$$$$ PAY PHONE
$$$$$$$$$$-=>Into a Cheesebox <=-$$$$$$
/=\Typed by:Sir Knight/=\
A Cheesebox (named for the type of box the first one was
found in) is a type of box which will, in effect, make
your telephone a Pay-Phone.....This is a simple,modernized, and
easy way of doing it....
Inside Info: These were first used by bookies many years ago
as a way of making calls to people without being
called by the cops or having their numbers traced and/or
tapped......
How To Make A Modern Cheese Box
Ingredients:
------------
1 Call Forwarding service on the line
1 Set of Red Box Tones
The number to your prefix's Intercept operator(do some
scanning for this one)
How To:
-------
After you find the number to the intercept operator in
your prefix, use your call-forwarding and forward
all calls to her...this will make your phone stay off the
hook(actually, now it waits for a quarter to be dropped
in)...you now have a cheese box...
In Order To Call Out On This Line:You must use your Red Box tones
and generate the quarter dropping in...then,you can make phone
calls to people...as far as I know, this is fairly safe, and
they do not check much...Although I am not sure, I think you can
even make credit-card calls from a cheesebox phone and not get
traced...
Enjoy, and don't get Caught!
=><= Sir Knight =><=
Head of APPA
/-/-/-/-/-/-\-\-\-\-\-\ THREE WAY CALLING
<:-\-Brown Box Plans-/-:>
\-\-\-\-\-\-/-/-/-/-/-/
(>Introduction<)
This is a fairly simple modification that can be made
to any phone. All it does is allow you to take any 2 lines in
your house and create a party line. So far I have not heard of
any problems with it from my friends that have set one up and I
have not had any either. There is one thing that you will notice
when you are one of the two people who is called by a person with
this box. The other person will sound a little bit faint. I
could overcome this with some amplifiers but then there wouldn't
be very many of these boxes made.
I think that the convenience of having two people on line at any
one time will make up for the minor volume loss.
(>Phone Modification Instructions<)
Here is the diagram:
KEY:___________________________________
! PART ! SYMBOL !
-----------------------------------
!BLACK WIRE ! * !
!YELLOW WIRE ! = !
!RED WIRE ! + !
!GREEN WIRE ! - !
!SPDT SWITCH ! _/_ !
! _/_ !
!VERTICAL WIRE ! ! !
!HORIZONTAL WIRE ! _ !
-----------------------------------
Page 51
* = - +
* = - +
* = - +
* = - +
* = - +
* ==_/_- +
*******_/_++++++
! !
! !
! !
!_____PHONE____!
---------------------------------------
In some houses the black and yellow are already wired
in others you will have to go out to your box and rewire it. A
good way to figure out which line is which is to take the phone
you are looking for off the hook. Then you only need to take the
red and green wires entering your phone and hook them to the
different pairs of red and green going into the house. You can't
hurt anything in the phone or telephone by probeing. When you
find the pair that you want take the black from your line and
attach it to the red of the other line then take the yellow and
attach it to the green line. Now you are all set to go. For
people with rotary phones you can have one person call you then
place the second call out to the other person. Though not a
phreakers tool, the brown box can be phun.
___________________________-END-____________________________
o Written by The Doc & Edited by 13th Floor Enterprises
619-420-8678
MAKE YOURSELF A RELAY LINE
(Blueboxing with no risk)
GOLD BOX PLANS: COURTESY OF SIR WILLIAM
HOW TO BUILD IT
_______________
YOU WILL NEED THE FOLLOWING:
TWO 10K OHM AND THREE 1.4K OHM RESISTORS, TWO 2N3904 TRANSISTORS,
TWO PHOTOCELLS, TWO RED LED'S (THE MORE LIGHT PRODUCED THE
BETTER), A BOX THAT WILL NOT LET LIGHT IN, AND RED AND GREEN
WIRE.
LIGHT FROM THE #1 LED MUST SHING DIRECTLY ON THE PHOTOCELL #1.
THE GOLD BOX I MAID NEEDED THE TOP OF THE LED'S TO TOUCH THE
PHOTOCELL FOR IT TO WORK.
THE SAME APPLIES TO THE #2 PHOTOCELL AND LED
1
:-PHOTOCELL--:
: :
: :BASE
: 1 TTTTT
: +LED- TRANSISTOR
: TTTTT
: : :
: -I(-- : :COLLECTOR
RED1--< >:--: :-------:-----GREEN2
-I(-- : ----------:
: :
2 :-/+/+/-/+/+/-/+/+/-/+/+/
LED 10K 10K 1.4K 1.4K
RESISTORES
2
-PHOTOCELL-----------------
: :
:BASE :
TTTTT :
TRANSISTOR :
TTTTT :
: :EMITTER :
GREEN1- --------------------------RED2
: :
/+/+/
1.4K
Page 53
THE 1.4K RESISTOR IS VERIABLE AND IF THE SECCOND PART OF THE GOLD
BOX IS SKIPPED IT WILL STILL WORK BUT WHEN SOMEONE PICKS THE
PHONE UP THEY WILL HEAR A FAINT DIAL TONE IN THE BACKGROUND AND
MIGHT REPORT IT TO THE GESTOPO ER...(AT&T). 1.4K WILL GIVE YOU
GOOD RECEPTION WITH LITTLE RISK OF A GESTOPO AGENT AT YOUR
DOOR.
NOW THAT YOU HAVE BUILT IT TAKE TWO GREEN WIRES OF THE SAME
LENTH STRIP THE ENDS, TWIST TWO ENDS TOGETHER AND CONNECT THEM TO
GREEN1 AND PLACE A PEICE OF TAPE ON IT WITH LINE #1 WRITING ON
IT.
CONTINUE THE PROCESS WITH RED1 ONLY USE RED WIRE. REPEAT WITH
RED2 AND GREEN2 BUT CHANGE TO LINE #2.
HOW TO INSTALL
______________
YOU WILL NEED TO FIND TWO PHONE LINES THAT ARE CLOSE TOGETHER.
LABEL ONE OF THE PHONES LINES LINE #1.CUT THE PHONE LINES AND
TAKE THE OUTER COUTING OFF IT. THERE SHOULD BE 4 WIRES CUT THE
YELLOW AND BLACK WIRES OFF AND STRIP THE RED AND GREEN WIRES FOR
BOTH LINES.
LINE #1 SHOULD BE IN TWO PEICES TAKE THE GREEN WIRE OF ONE END
AND CONNECT IT TO THE ONE OF THE GREEN WIRES ON THE GOLD BOX.
TAKE THE OTHER HALF OF LINE #1 AND HOOK THE FREE GREEN WIRE TO
THE GREEN WIRE ON THE PHONE LINE. REPEAT THE PROCESS WITH RED1
AND THE OTHER LINE.
ALL YOU NEED TO DO NOW IS TO RIGHT DOWN THE PHONE NUMBERS OF
THE PLACE YOU HOOKED IT UP AT AND GO HOME AND CALL IT. YOU SHOULD
GET A DIAL TONE!!!
IF NOT LEAVE ME A MESSAGE ON THE MODEM MADNESS BBS 516-569-0589
OR TRY CHANGING THE EMITTER WITH COLLECTOR.
OH AND HOOKING IT UP TO A PAYPHONE IS A FEDERAL OFFENCE AND IS
ILLEAGAL TO PUT ON ANY PHONE. I RECOMMEND YOU SEE YOUR LOCAL
POLICE DEPARTMENT BEFORE DOING ANYTHING SAID IN THIS ARTICLE.
(HAHAHAHA!!!!!!)
U/l'ed to: Static Barrier BBS by Sandman
Call These KEWL BBS!!
T H E O A S I S [312] 724 - 0346 :
H O T E L C A . [312] 234 - 6237
(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)
(*) Crimson Box (*) HOW TO MAKE A HOLD BUTTON FOR
(*) Plans (*) YOUR PHONE
(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)
The Crimson Box is very simple device that will allow you to put
someone on hold or make your fone busy with a large amount of
ease. You flip a switch and the person can't hear you talking.
Flip it back and everything is peechy.
(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)
(*) Needed Materials (*)
(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)
[
(1) 100 ohm or less resistor
(1) SPDT toggle switch, On-On
(3) feet of good wire
Wire cutters
Solder and soldering iron
(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)
(*) Construction & Schemtaic (*)
(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)
First I will give you the schematic and then I will explain what
the hell is going on.
[-----------black wire on line-----
--------+ red wire on line +--- ______________________
--------)--+/\/\/-green wire---)--- / : . . : . /\
--------)--! yellow wire-------)--- / -)- <--wire is under/:/
! ! ! / : \_Wire is over(-)/:/
+--!------+ ! | . : . wire . |\/
+----+ ! +----------+ |____________________||
! ! ! \____________________\
1 2 3
Ok. The '/\/\/' is the resistor. And '1 2 3' is the switch where
the numbers are the poles on the switch. Notice you leave the
black and yellow wires alone. You DO NOT cut them!
[
Strip the red and green wires so you've got about an inch of bare
wire. Solder some of the extra wire and follow the schematic. You
should have the resistor on the green wire with an extra piece
of wire coming from one leg of it. The other leg goes to the
other end of the green wire. You should solder the green
wire to the left pole of the switch and the red to the middle and
the other end of the red to the right pole.
Now, lift up the phone. If all you get is an annoying buzz then
throw the [switch and you should get a dial tone. If not, don't
worry and just follow the instructions and schematic again.
_______________________________________
This has been an HMH presentaion-1985
Crimson Box - Written and created by:
Dr. D-Code
Watch for the upcoming Sand Box
_______________________________________
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
$$ $$
$$ ***************** $$
$$ * How to make a * $$
$$ ***************** $$
$$ $$
$$ <> Pearl Box <> $$
$$ $$
$$ Written and created by: Dr. D-Code $$
$$ $$
$$ (Sysops may use this information if it's not altered in ) $$
$$ (any way at all) $$
$$ $$
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
The Pearl Box: Definition - This is a box that may substitute
for many boxes which produce tones in hertz. The Pearl Box when
operated correctly can produce tones from 1-9999hz. As you can
see, 2600, 1633, 1336 and other crucial tones are obviously in
its sound spectrum.
Materials you will need in order to build The Pearl Box:
========================================================
C1, C2::::::::.5mf or .5uf ceramic disk capacitors
Q1::::::::::::NPN transistor (2N2222 works best)
S1::::::::::::Normally open momentary SPST switch
S2::::::::::::SPST toggle switch
B1::::::::::::Standard 9-Volt battery
R1::::::::::::Single turn, 50k potentiometer
R2:::::::::::: " " 100k potentiometer
R3:::::::::::: " " 500k potentiometer
R4:::::::::::: " " 1meg potentiometer
SPKR::::::::::Standard 8-ohm speaker
T1::::::::::::Mini transformer (8-ohm works best)
Misc.:::::::::Wire, solder, soldering iron, PC board or
perfboard, box to contain the completed unit,
battery clip
Instructions for building The Pearl Box:
========================================
Since the instruction are EXTREMELY difficult to explain in
Page 57
words, you will be given a schematic instead. It will be quite
difficult to follow but try it any way. There is also a Hi-Res
picture you can get that shows the schematic in great detail.
(Schematic for The Pearl Box)
{It's not really that diffucult to understand. Try it}
+-------------+------------+---------+
! ! \ +--S1----
C1 C2 \ SPKR
! ! + +--------
+ + ----+T1 +
!\ +---------------+------+
! b c-------!
! Q1 !
! e-----S2---+ !
! ! !
! B1 !
! ! !
! +-------+
!R1 R2 R3 R4!
/\/\ /\/\ /\/\ /\/\
+--+ +--+ +--+
Now that you are probably thoroughly confused, let me explain a
few minor details. The potentiometer area is rigged so that the
left pole is connected to the center pole of the potentiometer
next to it. The middle terminal of T1 is connected to the piece
of wire that runs down to the end of the battery.
Correct operation of The Pearl Box:
===================================
You may want to get some dry-transfer decals at Radio Shack to
make this job a lot easier. Also, some knobs for the tops of the
potentiometers may be useful too. Use the decals to calibrate the
knobs. R1 is the knob for the ones place, R2 is for the tens
place, R3 if for the hundreds place and R4 is for the thousands
place. S1 is for producing the all the tones and S2 is for power.
Step 1: Turn on the power and adjust the knobs for the desired
tone.
(Example: For 2600 hz- R1=0:R2=0:R3=6:R4=2)
Step 2: Hit the pushbutton switch and VWALA! You have the tone.
If you don't have a tone recheck all connections and schematic.
If you still don't have a tone call Brainstorm BBS:612-345-2815,
The Bay:415-775-2384 or Pirate's Harbor:617-720-3600 and leave me
e-mail stating what the scene is.
---------------------------------------------------------------
This has been a High Mountain Hackers presentation - 1985
---------------------------------------------------------------
Shakepeare is currently working on an improved version of the
Pearl Box.. look for the ppplans soon!
Page 58
MAKE SILVER BOX TONES
[+>Read: silver boxing
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Ingredients:
1 Blue wire about 1 foot.
1 Gray wire about 1 foot.
1 Brown wire about 1 foot.
(Better to overkill....)
1 Single pole/Double throw
(SPDT) switch. (Smallest
you can find.)
1 Standard bell phone.
Tools:
1 Soldering Iron and Solder.
1 flat-tip screwdriver.
1 Very patcient person.
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
1: Take the casing off your phone by loosening the two screws
underneath it. (Don't take the screws all the way off!)
2: Loosen (But don't remove) the screws on the side of the
touch tone keypad. (The ones that attach it to the mounting
bracket.) and CAREFULLY remove the keypad from the mounting
bracket.
3: You will notice a plastic cover on the keypad; seperate the
two halves and get the out of your way. (Don't destroy them,
you will need them later.)
4: Now, look at the top of the pad (so the 123 row is facing
away, and the *0# row is toward you. Turn over the keypad.
You should see a mass of wires, gold plated contacts,
discrete components, and two large doughnut shaped black
thingies. (These are the coils that make the touch-tone
frequencies. All you are going to do is connect the wires
that Ma Bell "Forgot" to.)
5: Look at the coil on the left (with 5 solder contacts facing
you, rather than being perpendicular to you.) Count over 4
contacts FROM the left (or 2 conacts FROM the right) and
solder the GRAY wire to the fourth post FROM the left.
6: Solder the other end of the GRAY wire to the LEFT pole of
the SPDT switch.
7: (The point of no return)..........
Take a look at the bottom edge of the keypad. You should see
a row of three gold plated contacts (to the right of two
very large capasitors) look at the one on the left and
GENTELY seperate the two touching connectors (They are
soldered together with a drop of solder) and spread them
apart.
Page 59
8: Solder the brown wire to the top contact (The one futhest
from you), and solder it to the RIGHT pole of SPDT switch.
9: Now, take the blue wire and solder it to the bottom
(Closest)contact. Solder the other end of this wire to the
CENTER pole of SPDT switch.
*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*
DONE
*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*
10: Now put you phone back together. (To make it look
professonal, make a hole in the plastic top of your phone
and stick the SPDT switch through it.
Now, (Hopefully) when the switch is in on position you will
have a normal phone and when it is in the other position the 3,
6, 9, and # keys (Which are now the A, B, C, and D keys) will
magically produce the SILVER BOX TONES!
Have Phun and Happy Phreaking,
The Devil
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
====================================
USING A
SILVER BOX
-----------------------------------
First off, a silver box adds the four extra tones to your phone
that Ma Bell never told you about. They go like this:
1 2 3 A
4 5 6 B
7 8 9 C
* 0 # D
There used to be many places were you could use SILVER BOX
tones, but now you can only use it in places were Ma Bell hasn't
Page 60
gotten around to replacing her old switchboxes,
(4A), or on Autovan. Autovan is a special military phone
line, like a mass of private lines hooked together (I think, but
I'm not sure).
To see if a specific area has the old 4A switchboxes try this
test:
Call up there directory assistance byusing XXX-555-1212, (Where
XXX is the area code you are check out. Now hold down the "D" key
as soon as you finish dialing. (If you are using the SILVER BOX
that I showed you how to make; Switch to SILVER BOX tones
and hold down the "#" key.) The phone should start ringing and
the operator will answer.
If the operator screams at you to stop pressing your keypad,
then hang up and try a diffrent areacode. (This one does not
work.) If you get a pulsing tone the you got a good line! Now
try out different numbers. 6 and 7 usually form a loop line and
two people with SILVER BOXES can talk. But some of these
are watched, so DON'T say anything you wouldn't want your mother
to hear!
I have heard the 213 works but is being watched. Try out of the
way states like Iowa, Monatana, Wyoming, ect...(etc)
Have Phun,
The Devil
====================================
You better know
HOW TO BUILD AND USE A RED BOX...... what THIS is!
=<COURTESY OF -<U.N>->=
=<TYPED BY THE MASTER >=
----------------------
THE RED BOX BASICALLY SIMULATES THE SOUND OF COINS BEING DROPPED
INTO THE COIN SLOT OF A PAY TELEPHONE. A PAY TELEPHONE GENERATES
A BURST OF TWO MIXED FREQUENCIES, 1700 HZ AND 2200 HZ, FOR A
SPECIFIC TIME INTERVAL TO DENOTE A NICKLR, DIME, OR QUARTER. A
NICKLE IS 1700 HZ +2200 HZ FOR 66 MILLISECONDS. A DIME IS 1700 HZ
+ 2200 HZ FOR 66 MILLI. SECS. ON, 66 MS. OFF , THEN 66 MS ON
AGAIN. FINALLY, A QUARTER IS 1700 HZ+2200 HZ FOR 33,MS ON, 33 MS,
OFF, CONTINUOSLY REPEATING FOR 5 TIMES.
WHEN USING A RED BOX ON A PAY PHONE, FIRST DEPOSIT A REAL
NICKLE (BECAUSE THEY CAN TELL IF THE FIRST ONE IS A REAL ONE OR
JUST A TONE), THEN USE THE TONE BURST. YOU CAN BUILD THE CIRCUIT
TO GENERATE A NICKLE TONE, THEN RECORD IT AND PLAY IT INTO THE
PAY PHONE WITH A WALKMAN CASETTE PLAYER.
TO GET THE MAP, SEND $2 DOLLARS TO MASTER WORLD
1609 S. BENTLEY AVE
LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA 90025
THE MAP HAS MANY FIGURES THAT THE COMPUTER CANNOT PRODUCE.
IF YOU HAVE THE MAP , HERE ARE SOME TIPS:
ADJUST R1 TO GET 2200 HZ AT POINT A
ADJUST R2 " " 1700 HZ " " B
PRESS SWITCH FOR 66 MS ON AT SPEAKER
THIS SIMULATES A NICKLE
THE 555 TIMER-> 66MS TIMER
THE 556 DUAL TIMER->2200HZ+1700HZ GENERATOR
741->TIMER OP AMP BUFFER FOR SPEAKER
SO REMEMBER IF YOU DON'T HAVE THE MAP SEND TWO DOLLARS TO THE
ADDRESS UP ABOVE
{{{ My Hertz Generator will make most tones necessary for RED
Boxing, so try it first before you go and spend your money.}}}
{{{Tell me how you like it....}}}
{{{ The generator, that is. }}}
:%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%:
:% %:
:% THE GREEN BOX %:
:% %:
:%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%:
The Green Box generates useful tonessuch as COIN COLLECT, COIN
RETURN, and RINGBACK. These are the tones that ACTS or the TSPS
operator would send to the CO when appropriate. Unfortunately,
the green box cannot be used at a fortress station, but must be
used by the CALLED party. The tones (hz) are:
COIN COLLECT 700 + 1100
COIN RETURN 1100 + 1700
RINGBACK 700 + 1700
Before the called party sends any of these tones, an operator
released signal should be sent to alert the MF detectors at the
CO. This can be done by sending 900 + 1500 Hz or a single 2600
Hz wink (90 ms) followed by a 60 ms gap and then the appropriate
signal for at least 900 ms. Also, do not forget that the initial
rate is collected shortly before the 3 minute period is up.
..................................
: Getting keys to soda :
: machines :
:................................:
By The Pyro
This worked for a friend of mine at school (I would) never
do anything like this) it got him over $900 in one day.
Here's how to do it:
On almost all vending machines they have those damn round almost unpickable
locks on them so:
When no one is looking quickly press a piece of AIR-HARDENING clay into
the lock. (Press hard enough to get a good impression.)
Remove the clay carefully and let it dry for however long the
clay has to dry as specified on the package.
You now have a key to fit that lock,
(this Type of 'key' can be easily crushed
If you're seen. But if you're smart you won't though)
\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/
Gun Powder By
The Mortician
Sysop of The Morgue
(xxx)xxx-xxxx
Well the ingredients are:
Potassium Nitrate 85%
Carbon(Charcol) 12%
Sulfur 3%
They are rough percentages but try
a little like that and play with it.
The more Potassium you add the faster
it iwll burn. Less sulfur slower. Less
carbon the less it will burn. What
you will do is just put them all in
a mixing jar, I used a little cardboard
box with low sides and then ground it
up and mix together. You can get Potassium
Nitrate at most drug stores. It is commonly
known as Salt Peter. Have fun.
Excerpts from 'Steal This Book' by Abbie Hoffman.
(I doubt the Publishers will mind too much seeing
as how most people got this book by stealing it, as is suggested
by the title.... I doubt they expected a profit from it; if they
did, they were wrong.)
Anyway, here it is:
=====>>
People's Chemistry
-------- ---------
Stink Bomb
You can purchase buteric acid at any chemical supply store
for "laboratory experiments." It can be thrown or poured directly
in an area you think already stinks. A small bottle can be left
uncapped behind a door that opens into the target room. When a
person enters they will knock over the bottle, spilling the
liquid. Called a "Fronies," by those in the know, an ounce of
buteric acid can go a long way. Be careful not to get it on your
clothing.
A home-made stink bomb can be made by mixing a batch of egg
whites, Drano, (sodium hydroxide) and water. Let the mixture sit
for a few days in a capped bottle before using.
Smoke Bomb
Sometimes it becomes strategically correct to confuse the
opposition and provide a smoke screen to aid an escape. A real
home-made smoke bomb can be made by combining four parts sugar to
six parts saltpeter (available at all chemical supply stores).
This mixture must then be heated over a very low flame. It willl
blend into a plastic substance. When this starts to gel, remove
from the heat and allow the plastic to cool. Embed a few wooden
match heads into the mass while it's still pliable and attach a
fuse.*
..About a pound of the plastic will produce thick enough smoke
to fill a city block. Just make sure you know which way the wind
is blowing.
(* is under Fuses, Page 156)
Page 154
Sterno Bomb
One of the simplest bombs to make is the converted sterno
can. It will provide some bang and a widely dispersed spray of
jellied fire. Remove the lid from a standard, commercially
purchased can and punch a hold {Hole I assume} in the center big
enough for the firecracker fuse. Take a large spoonful of jelly
out of the center to make room for the firecracker. Insert the
firecracker and pull the fuse up through the hole in the lid.
When in place, cement around the hole with epoxy glue. Put some
more glue around the rim of the can and reseal the lid. Wipe the
can and wash off excess with rubbing alcohol. A cancerette fuse
{cigarette fuse} should be used. The can could also be taped
around a bottle with Moltov mixture and ignited.
Various fuses from 'Steal This Book'
Fuses
You can make a good homemade fuse by dipping a string in
glue and then rolling it lightly in gunpowder. When the glue
hardens, wrap the string tightly and neatly with scotch tape.
This fuse can be used in a variety of ways. Weight it on one end
and drop a rock into the tank of a pig vehicle. Light the other
end and run like hell.
{Cops don't like that part though....}
Cancerette Fuse
{Cigarette Fuse}
Take a few puffs (being sure not to inhale the vile
fumes){This comming from an acclaimed pot-grower} to get it going
and work the unlighted end over the fuse of a firecracker. {Use
an unfiltered cigarette, or cut off the filter} This will provide
a delay of from 5 to 15 minutes. To use this type of fuse
successfully, there must be enough air in the vicinity so the
flame won't go out. A strong wind would not be good either. When
the cancerette burns down, it sets off the firecracker which in
turn explodes and ignites the bomb or whatever.
A little free money never hurt....
Coin Fraud
Every time you drop a coin into a slot, you are losing money
needlessly. There is at least one foreign coin that is the same
size or close enough that will do the trick for less than a
penny. The following are some of the foreign currencies that will
get you that Coke, call or subway ride.
Quarter Size Coins
URUGUAYAN 10 CENTISIMO PIECE--works in many soda and candy
machines, older telephones (3 slot types), toll machines,
laundromats, parking meters, stamp machines and restroom novelty
machines{You figure that one out}. Works also in some electric
cancerette machines but not most mechanical machines.
DANISH 5 ORE PIECE--works in 3 slot telephones, toll
machines, laundromats, automats, some stamp machines, and the
Boston Subway. Doesn't work in soda or cancerette machines.
PERUVIAN 20 CENTAVO PIECE--similar to above.
MEXICAN 10 CENTAVO PIECE--works in new (one slot) telephones
and some electric cancerette machines, but not in as many places
as the three above.
ICELANDIC 5 AURAN PIECE--most effective quarter in the
world, even works in change machines. Unfortunately, this coin is
practically impossible to get outside of Iceland and even there,
it is becoming difficult since the government is attempting to
remove it from circulation. {DAMN!}
Dime Size Coins
MALASIAN PENNY--generally works in all dime slots, including
old and new telephones, candy machines, soda machines, electric
machines, stamp machines, parking meters, photocopy machines, and
pay toilets. Does not work in some newer stamp dispensers, and
some mechanical cancerette machines.
TRINIDAD PENNY--works much like above.
Washers
No. 14 brass washer with tape on one side makes a PERFECT
dime. When you get the ones you want, you can get Thousands for
next to nothing and pass them out to your friends.
Legalities etc
All of the coins listed have a currency value of a few
cents, with most less than one penny. Foreign coins work more
regularly than slugs and are non-magnetic, hence cannot be
detected by "slug detector machines." Also unlike slugs, although
they are illegal to use in mahines, they a re perfectly legal to
possess and exchange.
Bills
Xerox copies of both sides of a dollar bill, carefully glued
together, work in most machines that give you change for a
dollar....Fancy that! It's the Treasury Department. Wonder what
they want?
Free Calls
You can make all the free long distance calls you want by
calling your part collect at a pay phone. Just have your friend
go to a prearranged phone booth at a prearranged time. This can
be done on the spot by having the friend call you person to
person. Say you're not in, but ask for the number calling you
since you'll be "back" in five minutes. Once you get the number
simply hang up, wait a moment and call back your friend collect.
The call has to be out of state to work since operators are
familiar with the special extension numbers assigned to pay
phones for her area and possibly for nearby areas as well. if she
asks you if it is a pay phone say no. If she finds out during the
call (which rarely happens) and informs you of this, simply say
you didn't expect the party to have a pay phone in their house
and accept the charges. We never heard of this happening though.
Simple Red Boxing
If there are two pay phones next to each other, you can call
long distance on one and put the coins in the other. When the
operator cuts in and asks you to deposit money, drop the coins in
the one you are not using, but hold the reciever up to the slots
so the operator can hear the bells ring. When you've finished,
you can simply press the return button on the phone with the
coins, and you'll get them back. (Or tape record the sounds etc)
{For this, nowadays, put the reciver up to the earpiece on the
other phone and procede as above stated.}
%%:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::%%
%% Coin Changer Fraud %%
%% Written by- Electronic Rebel %%
%%:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::%%
Have you ever seen one of those really big changer machines in
airports, laundrymats or arcades that dispense change when you
put in your 1 or 5 dollar bill? Well then, here is an article
for you.
1) Find the type of change machine that you slide in your bill
length wise, not the type where you put the bill in a tray and
then slide they tray in!!!
2) After finding the right machine, get a $1 or $5 bill. Start
crumpling up into a ball. Then smooth out the bill, now it
should have a very wrinkly surface.
3) Now the hard part. You must tear a notch in the bill on the
left side about 1/2 inch below the little 1 dollar symbol (See
Figure).
4) If you have done all of this right then take the bill and go
out the machine. Put the bill in the machine and wait. What
should happen is: when you put your bill in the machine it
thinks everything is fine. When it gets to the part of the bill
with the notch cut out, the machine will reject the bill
and (if you have done it right) give you the change at the same
time!!! So, you end up getting your bill back, plus the change!!
It might take a little practice, but once you get the hang of it,
you can get a lot of money!
!--------------------------------!
! !
! (1) /-------\ (1) !
! ! ! !
! ! Pic. ! !
! (1) /\ \-------/ (1) !
! !! !
!-----/ \-----------------------!
\-------Make notch here. About 1/2 "
down from (1)
Electronic Terrorism
By: King Tut
It starts when a big, dumb lummox rudely insults you. Being
of a rational, intelligent disposition, you wisely choose to
avoid a (direct) confrontation. But as he laughs in your face,
you smile inwardly---your revenge is already planned.
Step 1: follow your victim to his locker, car, or house. Once
you have chosen your target site, lay low for a week or
more, letting your anger boil.
Step 2: in the mean time, assemble your versatile terrorist
kit(details below.)
Step 3: plant your kit at the desig- nated target site on a
monday morning between the hours of 4:00 am and 6:00
am. Include a calm, suggestive note that quietly hints
at the possibility of another attack. Do not write it
by hand! An example of an effective note:
"don't be such a jerk, or the
next one will take off your
hand. Have a nice day."
Notice how the calm tone instills fear. As if written by
a homicidal psychopath.
Step 5: choose a strategic location overlooking the target site.
Try to position yourself in such a way that you can see
his facial contortions.
Step 6: sit back and enjoy the fireworks!
Assembly of the versatile, economic, and effective terrorist kit
#1:
the parts you'll need are:
1) 4 aa batteries
2) 1 9-volt battery
3) 1 spdt mini relay (radio shack)
4) 1 rocket engine(smoke bomb or m-80)
5) 1 solar ignitor (any hobby store)
6) 1 9-volt battery connector
Page 108
step 1: take the 9-volt battery and wire it through the relay's
coil. This circuit should also include a pair of
contacts that when separated cut off this circuit.
These contacts should be held together by trapping them
between the locker,mailbox, or car door. Once the door
is opened, the contacts fall apart and the 9-volt
circuit is broken, allowing the relay to fall to the
closed postion thus closing the ignition circuit. (If
all this is confusing take a look at the schematic
below.)
Step 2: take the 4 aa batteries and wire them in succession.
Wire the positive terminal of one to the negative
terminal of another, until all four are connected
except one positive terminal and one negative terminal.
Even though the four aa batteries only combine to create
6 volts, the increase in amperage is necessary to
activate the solar ignitor quickly and effectively.
Step 3: take the battery pack (made in step 2) and wire one end
of it to the relay's single pole and the other end to
one prong of the solar ignitor. Then wire the other
prong of the solar ignitor back to the open position on
the relay.
Step 4: using double sided carpet tape mount the kit in his
locker, mailbox, or car door. And last, insert the solar
ignitor into the rocket engine (smoke bomb or m-80).
Page 109
Your kit is now complete!
---------><---------
I (CONTACTS) I
I I
I --- (9 VOLT)
I - (BATTERY)
I ---
I I
I (COIL) I
------///////-------
/-----------
/ I
/ I
/ I
(SWITCH) I I
I I
I I
I I
I --- (BATTERY)
I - ( PACK )
I ---
I I
I I
---- -----
I I
*
(SOLAR IGNITOR)
How to Hotwire a Car
By: The Marauder
The easiest way is to just get under the dashboard and start
crossing wires. Of course this could short out the entire
electrical system so there is a better way.
When you get in the car, look under the dash. If it's enclosed
then don't bother. Most new cars are like this unfortunately.
However you could cut through the dash. If you do cut just do it
near the ignition.
Once you get behind or near the ignition, look for two red
wires. In older cars this was the standard color code. If they
aren't there you'll just have to try whatever else you can find.
Pull out the two wires and cross them. The car should start.
' Green Goddess '
-----------------
Materials
---------
1.) Zinc (Zn) <---NOTE: This is not the same as Znc Oxide!
2.) Sulfur (S)
Procedure
---------
1.) Mix the two together 1/2 and 1/2.
2.) MAKE SURE that you mix them very well. The best way to do
so, is to put the mixture in a jar with a lid and shake it up for
15-60 seconds, until it is all a grayish color.
3.) To ignite, use magnesium and a blow torch (*matches don't
work).
WARNING,this burns very very quickly, and produces smoke. Also it
burns at a fairly high temperature(*about 600 deg. fah.). It will
surprise you when it ignites. There will be a delay, and then all
of a sudden, it will flash up, and is capable of burning the hell
out of you.
Homemade Bombs (Just the way Mom used to make 'em)
Explosive Devices An anarchist's beginning guide to explosives!
(or how to get back at those neighbors who told you to turn your
stereo down by blowing em up!)
1.Quickie... Take organic pool chlorine and mix it with
vegetable shortening and put it someplace you don't like. It
reacts by itself to produce a very noxious white smoke and heat.
*make sure you are not around because the fumes are harmful to
your health.
2.A pipe bomb (dangerous) Take a pipe, crimp (closed at one
end) and pack it 3/4 full of paraffin (or any other semi-solid
with about the same basic chemical structure), poke a number of
holes through the length of the paraffin. On top of this put a
very thin steel (or other metal of that sort) wafer, make double
damn sure** that it fits tightly all the way around. On top of
this put some high concentration HCL (or similar acid). Close the
top now, stand it on end (paraffin end down), and get the fuck
away. You should have about 2-5 minutes depending on the
thickness of the wafer. Watch out for shrapnel.
*sure you will..more like 5-30 seconds. better to use a vial on
the bottom ,stand the pipe upright, tie a string around it and
pull from far away.
3. Snowball... Take ammonium iodide, flour, & water and form
this into a snowball. Leave this 'snowball' somewhere where it
will do neat stuff when it dries out. (substituting some
magnesium flash powder for some (not all) of that flour helps
things a bit.)
4.Fire bomb.. Take carbon disulfide and dissolve white
phosphorous in it. Put it in a stoppered bottle and throw it at
something you would like to see on fire. When the CS2 evaporates,
it leaves a film of P on what ever it hits, and it starts a fire
with the solvent vapors.
5. Light bulb bomb (click...booom!) Take a light bulb (brass
based preferably so you can solder the wires back when you are
done) Unsolder the two wires that are soldered to the brass (one
at the center of the base and one on the edge). Remove the base,
taking care not to damage the bulb or filament, then take a pair
of needle nosed pliers and snap the glass nipple that is now
exposed. Fill bulb (not completely),via the hole you just made,
with gasoline. Plug hole with silicone or something. Put the base
back on, resolder the wires, screw into light fixture (with power
off of course!), turn on light...booom! *easier to use a
mini-power-drill.
Fire Bombs, Napalm etc.
By: Lex Luthor
FIREBOMBS
Most fire bombs are simply gasoline filled bottles with a fuel
soaked rag in the mouth (the bottle's mouth, not yours). The
original Molotov cocktail, and still about the best, was a
mixture of one part gasoline and one part motor oil. The oil
helps it to cling to what it splatters on.
Some use one part roofing tar and one part gasoline. Fire
bombs have been found whcih were made by pouring melted wax into
gasoline.
NAPALM
About the best fire bomb is napalm. It has a thick
consistancy, like jam and is best for use on vehilces or
buildings.
How to make Napalm by the Jolly Roger
- Pour some gas into an old bowl, or some kind of container.
- Get some styrofoam and put it in the gas, until the gas won't
eat anymore. You should have a sticky syrup.
- Put it on the end of something (don't touch it!!). The unused
stuff lasts a long time!
MATCH HEAD BOMB
Simple safety match heads in a pipe, capped at both ends, make
a devestating bomb. It is set off with a regular fuse
A plastic Baggie is put into the pipe before the heads go in
to prevent detonation by contact with the metal.
Cutting enough match heads to fill the pipe can be tedious
work for one but an evening's fun for the family if you can drag
them away from the TV.
FUSE IGNITION FIRE BOMB
A four strand homemade fuse is used for this. It burns like
fury. It is held down and concealed by a strip of bent tin cut
from a can. The exposed end of the fuse is dipped into the flare
igniter. To use this one, you light the fuse and hold the fire
bomb until the fuse has burned out of sight under the tin. Then
throw it and when it breaks, the burning fuse will ignite the
contents.
WHAT!?!?
How to Make Nitroglycerin
By: Karl Marx
CH2ONO2
! 3/2 N2 + 3 CO2
CHONO2 ----------> +
! Ignition 5/2 H2O + 1/4 O2
CH2ONO2
(How Nitro explodes--note that the byproducts are nothing but
nitrogen, carbon dioxide, water and oxygen)
Nitroglycerin [heretofore Nitro] is a very powerful high-
explosive. I am not sure who invented it but he probably
didn't-- the first person to make it probably blew himself up and
his freind got the info off his notes. Well anyway, the next best
thing to Nitro is TNT which is ten times harder to make but also
ten times safer to make. If you can't use common sense then dont
even TRY to make this stuff--a few drops can be lethal under
certain circumstances.
To make Nitro:
== ==== ======
Mix 100 parts fuming nitric acid (for best results it should
have a specific gravity of 50 degrees Baume') with 200 parts
sulphuric acid. This is going to be HOT at first--it won't
splatter if you pour the nitric INTO the sulphuric but don't try
it the other way around.
The acid solutions together can disolve flesh in a matter of
seconds so take the proper measures for God's sake!!! When cool,
add 38 parts glycerine as slowly as possible. Let it trickle down
the sides of the container into the acids or it won't mix
thourily and the reaction could go to fast--which causes enough
heat to ignite the stuff. Stir with a **GLASS** rod for 15
seconds or so then CARFULLY pour it into 20 times it's *VOLUME*
of water. It will visibly precipitate immediatly. there will be
twice as much Nitro as you used glycerin and it is easy to
separate. Mix it with baking soda as soon as you have separated
it-- this helps it not to go off spontainously.
::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
NOTES: Parts are by weight and the Baume' scale of spicific
gravity can be found in most chem. books. You ca get fuming
nitric and sulfuric acids wherever good chemicals or fertilizers
are sold. It is positivly *STUPID* to make more than 200 grams
of Nitro at a time.
When mixing the stuff wear goggles, gloves, etc. When I first
made the stuff I had the honor of having it go off by itself (I
added too much glycerine at a time.) I was across the room at
the time, but I felt the impact--so did the table it was on as
well as the window it was next to--they were both smashed by only
25 grams in an open bowl.
Oh, yes, glycerine you can get at any pharmacy and you need an
adult signature for the acids. Any bump can make Nitro go off if
you don't add the bicarbonate of (baking) soda--but even with
that, if it gets old I wouldn't play catch with it.
Once you have made the Nitro and saturated it with Bicarb.
you can make a really powerful explosive that won't go off by
itself by simply mixing it with as much cotton as you can and
then saturating that with molten ((parifine--just enough to make
it sealed and hard.
Typically, use the same amounts (by weight) of each Nitro, cotton
and parifine. This, when wrapped in newspaper, was once known as
"Norbin & Ohlsson's Patent Dynamite," but that was back in 1896.
I Zoxxon take no responsibility for the use of these items stated
herewithin. This textfile is presented for informational use
only. The comments are added to most of the things i have
attempted. All of the origional authors names have been deleted
for privacy. All telephone numbers have been deleted also in
order to preserve secrecy.
Some articles are from the ill-fated,
"THE POLICE STATION" BBS
Generic bomb
1) Aquire a glass container
2) Put in a few drops of gasoline
3) Cap the top
4) Now turn the container around to coat the inner surfaces and
then evaporates
5) Add a few drops of potassium permanganate (<-Get this stuff
from a snake bite kit)
6) The bomb is detonated by throwing aganist a solid object.
*AFTER THROWING THIS THING RUN LIKE HELL THIS THING PACKS ABOUT
1/2 STICK OF DYNAMITE*
House Hold equivalants
----- ---- -----------
Name Equivalant
---- ----------
acetic acid vinegar
aluminum oxide alumia
aluminum potassium sulfate alum
aluminum sulfate alum
ammonium hydroxide ammonia
carbon carbonate chalk
carbon tetrachloride cleaning fluid
calcium hypochloride bleaching powder
calcium oxide lime
calcium sulfate plaster of paris
carbonic acid seltzer
ethylene dichloride dutch fluid
ferric oxide iron rust
glucose corn syrup
graphite pencil lead
hydrochloric acid muriatic acid
hydrogen peroxide peroxide
lead acetate sugar of lead
lead tetrooxide red lead
magesium silicate talc
magesium sulfate Epsom salts
naphthalene mothballs
phenol carbolic acid
potassium bicarbonate cream of tarter
potassium chromium sulfate chrome alum
potassium nitrate saltpeter
sodium dioxide sand
sodium bicarbonate baking soda
sodium borate borax
sodium carbonate washing soda
sodium choride salt
sodium hydroxide lye
sodium silicate water glass
Page 64
sodium sulfate glaubers' salt
sodium thiosulfate photographers hypo
sulferic acid battery acid
sucrose cane sugar
zinc choride tinner's fluid
------------ --------------
$%$%$%$%$%$%$%$%$%$%$%$%$%$%$%$%$%$%$%$%$
% %
$ Kitchen Improvised Plastic Explosives $
% %
$ PART I $
% How to make plastique from bleach. %
$ $
% %
$%$%$%$%$%$%$%$%$ Typed $%$%$%$%$%$%$%$%$
in by
Agrajag the Prolonged
This is the first in a serries of articles dealing with the process of
making platic explosives. In the articles I will discuss different types of
plastic explosives, there origin and finally hold to produce them with suplies
that are found in a usual house-hold.
This information was orignally written by Tim Lewis, and was typed in and
uploaded by myself, (Agrajag). This article will take you through step by step
process of making plastic explosive from common house-hold bleach.
Plastique Explosive from Bleach
This explosive is a Potassium chlorate explosive. This explosive and
explosives of similar composition were used in WWI as the main ecplosive filler
in grenades, land mines, and morter rounds used by French, German, and some
other forces involved in that conflict.
These explosives are relatively safe to manufcture. By RELATIVELY SAFE, I
mean just that! DON'T SCREW AROUND WITH THIS SHIT, EITHER MAKE IT OR DON'T! I
hate to hear of a phreak buying it because he was fucking with some chemicals
and then it blew up in his face. The procedures in the following paragraph CAN
BE DANGEROUS, if you don't take special care, and watch what you are doing!
On should strive to make sure these explosives are free from sulfure,
sulfides, and picric acid. The presence of these compounds result in mixtures
that are or can become highly sensitive and possibly decompose explosively while
in storage. One should never store home made explosives, make enough for what
you need at the time. YOU NEVER KNOW HOW STABLE IT IS UNTIL IT BLOWS!
The manufacter of this explosive from bleach is given just as an expediant
method. This method of manufacturing potassium chlorate is not economical due
to the amount of energy used to boil the solution and cause the "Dissociation"
reaction to take place. The procedure does work and yields a relatively pure
and a sulfur, sulfide free product.
These explosives are very cap sensitive and require only a #3 cap for
instigating detonation.
To manufacture potassium chlorate from bleach, (5.25% sodium hypochlorite
solution), obtain a heat source, hot-plate, stove, etc., etc. a battery
hydrometer, a large pyrex or enameled steel container, (to weigh chemicals), and
some potassium chloride, (sold as salt substitute).
Take one gallon of bleach and place it in the container and begin heating
it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63 grams potassium chloride and add
this to the bleach being heated. Bring this solution to a boil and boil until
when checked with a hydrometer the reading is 1.3, (if battery hydrometer is
used, it should read FULL charge.)
When the reading is 1.3 take the solution and let it cool in the
refrigerator until it is between room temperature and 0 degrees celcius. Filter
out the crystals that have formed and save them. Boil this solution again and
cool as before. Filter and save the crystals.
Take these crystals that have been saved and mix them with distilled water
in the following proportions: 56 grams per 100 milileters distilled water. Heat
this solution until it boils and allow to cool. Filter the solution and save
the crystals the form upon cooling. This process of purification is called
fractional crystalization. these crystals should be relatively pure potassium
chlorate.
Power these to the consistancy of face powder and heat gently to drive off
all moisture.
Melt five parts vaseline and five parts wax. Disslove this in white
gasoline, (camp stove gasoline), and pour this liquid on 90 parts potassium
chlorate, (the powdered crystals from above), in a plastic bowl.
Knead this liquid into the potassium chlorate until intimately mixed.
Allow all the gasoline to evaporate.
Place this explosive in a cool dry place. Avoid friction, sulfur, sulfides,
and phophorous compounds. This explosive is best molded to the desired shape
and density of 1.3 grams in a cube and dipped in wax till water proof. These
block type charges guarantee the highest detonation velocity.
Live long and prosper,
Agrajag
Ps, I would like to thank Tim Lewis, the autor of "Kitchen Improvised Plastic
Explosives" for this information. You may obtain a catalog of other books of
this and other natures by writing:
Information Publishing Co.
Box 10042, Odessa, Texas.
79762
PrimoPyro1990
.... Detonators ....
DISCLAIMER: The following file contains information of harmful or illegal
nature. Neither the BBS or author providing this information
can be considered responsible for the use of this file.
The person using this knowledge is solely responsible for
it's use or misuse. This file is intended to educate only.
Modern high explosives require a shock to explode.
The detonator provides this shock. Detonators are powerful enough to take off
your fingers completely and shatter your hand so care must be used in the
making and handling of them.
The standard nonelectric detonator consists of a brass tube about 1/4" I.D.
with thin walls and a length of about 2 1/2" to 3". This tube is sealed at
one end and open at the other. The tube contains two explosives, one layer
upon the other. The bottom layer is called the base charge and is usually
an insensitive high explosive. The top layer is the initiating charge and is
a sensitive explosive. At one time the usual blasting cap contained 2 gms.
of mercury fulminate and was called a #8 cap. A #6 cap contained 1 gm. of
fulminate. Other caps with less strength were numbered lower. Since fulminate
is a sensitive explosive, detonators with less of it were safer to handle.
To use this type of detonator, a fuse is inserted into the tube and pushed
against the fulminate. The tube is then crimped around a blasting fuse with
a special tool for this purpose.
An electric detonator consists of the same detonator as above but now an
electric match is inserted in place of the fuse and sealed in with a water-
proof seal. The wires for the detonator are twisted together or somehow
shorted together to keep stray radio signals from causing premature deton-
ation. If the wires are not twisted together, one lead may act as an antenna
while the other acts as a ground. If the wires intercept a radio signal, the
induced current may be enough to heat up the detonator's filament and cause
an explosion. Old detonators were made with a spark gap instead of a filament
and were set off when a high voltage spark jumped the gap. This type of det-
onator can be set off by static electricity generated by walking across a
carpet.
Another type of detonator is the exploding brigewire detonator. This uses no
primary explosive such as fulminate. Instead, a small diameter wire is used
in place of a filament. A capacitor is charged up to say 300 v. and 200 uFD.
The capacitor is then discharged through the detonator causing the bridge-
wire to explode. This microexplosion is enough to cause the initiaton of the
secondary explosive. If a battery is connected to the detonator, the bridge-
wire burns through without detonating the explosive. These detonators are
very safe to handle and use but the firing circuit is complex.
Still another type of detonator is a percussion detonator. This is a mechan-
ically initiated device. It consists of a nonelectric detonator with a primer
sealed in one end. When a firing pin hits the primer the resulting flash
fires the detonator. Sometimes a stab detonator is used. This is very much
like the percussion detonator but instead of the firing pin, a needle is used
to pierce the sensitive end of the cap.
The most modern detonators include a built in electronic timer that causes
detonation at some precise time after the detonation pulse is received. This
delay is programmable and is used to tailor the explosion to suit individual
needs. The explosive is also configured as a small shaped charge to cause a
more perfect detonation of the main charge.
Primary Explosives Used in Detonators
Primary explosives are chemicals that do not burn but explode directly
from a flame or spark. They are also usually very sensitive to shock.
Mercury fulminate can be found in toy paper caps for use in a cap pistol. The
quantity in a paper cap is about 1/10 of a grain. There are 15.4 grains in a
gram so approximately 154 of them contain one gram. If you have heard one cap
exploding, imagine 154 of them going at once. The following are manufacturing
processes for small laboratory amounts of primary explosives. Follow safety
rules if you decide to manufacture them.
Mercury Fulminate: This is one of the oldest explosives used for making deto-
nators. It is one of the easiest explosives to make.
In a glass container put 40 ml. of 90% nitric acid. If you have red fuming
nitric acid, put in 10 ml. of water then add 30 ml. of acid one drop at a
time until all the acid is added. Water should never be added to acid.
The reaction can cause splattering of the acid. Acid to water is what you
oughta. Water to acid is not very placid.
Now, add 5 gms. of mercury metal. As the metal dissolves in the acid, some
red fumes of nitric oxides may be released. Avoid breathing them. Allow the
mixture to stand until the mercury is dissolved. You may want to stir the
acid to help the mercury dissolve. The mercury may take some time to dissolve
so have patience. When the metal is dissolved, add the acid to 75 ml. of warm
90% ethyl alcohol.in a 500 ml. glass container. In a few minutes a reaction
will start. The mixture will start bubbling and frothing so the reaction must
take place in a large container. White fumes will start coming out of the
reaction and must not be inhaled. The white fumes will give way to red fumes
then change back to white again. A precipitate will be seen to form in the
liquid. This is mercury fulminate. When the reaction stops bubbling, pour the
liquid into about 12 oz. of water. Wash the precipitate out of the reaction
container and into the water. Filter the fulminate out of the water and wash
it with a few ounces of ethyl alcohol and a final wash of a few ounces of
distilled water. The fulminate should be a grayish to a white powder. It is
best stored under water until use.
Mercury fulminate can be exploded by a 4 cm. drop of a 1 kilo weight. It will
become "dead pressed" if subjected to pressures of 25,000 - 30,000 psi and
will no longer explode but just burn.
DDNP: Diazodinitrophenol is a greenish yellow to a brown crystal and is
superior to fulminate as a detonating agent. To make it, dissolve 1 gm. of
sodium hydroxide in 65 mls. of distilled water then add 6 gms of picric
acid to the lye solution. In another container put 10 ml. of distilled water
and add 5 gms. of sulfur to the water. Now add 5 gms. of sodium hydoxide to
the sulfur/water. Boil this mixture until it turns bright red. Let the
solution cool off. Add the sulfur/lye to picric acid solution in four
portions letting the picric solution cool down in between additions. Stir the
solution while adding the sulfur/lye. Let the mixture cool off then filter
out the red particles. Dissolve the red particles in 130 mls. of boiling
water. Filter the solution and discard any precipitate, save the solution.
Add 80% sulfuric acid to the solution drop by drop until it turns an orange-
brown color then add 15 mls. more sulfuric acid. Let the solution cool down
to room temperature. Dissolve 3.75 gms of sodium nitrite (not nitrate) in 150
mls. of distilled water. Add the nitrite solution to the orange-brown solu-
tion all at once while stirring. Let the solution stand for 10 - 15 mins.
The solution should be a brown color. Filter out the particles of DDNP and
wash them with 100 mls. of distilled ice water. Store the DDNP under a small
amount of water until use.
Lead Picrate: When picric acid reacts with a metal a picrate is formed. The
heavier the metal the more sensitive an explosive is formed. Lead picrate is
a useful explosive for making improvised detonators. The picrate will explode
from heat, sparks, or shock. In a small glass container put 5 gms. of picric
acid. Add to this 25 mls. of ethyl alcohol and stir the two to make a paste.
Add 5 gms. of lead monoxide to the paste and gently stir the mixture. This is
now an explosive. Store the paste still wet with alcohol in a sealed glass
container until needed.
Lead Azide: Lead azide is probably the most commonly used explosive in modern
detonators. It is not as shock sensitive as mercury fulminate. It must be
precipitated in the presence of dextrin to keep the particles of azide small.
Failure to do this will result in an explosion as the large crystals of azide
explode from inner stresses. Dissolve 17 gms. of lead nitrate and 1.5 gms. of
dextrin in 250 ml. of distilled water. Adjust the pH of the solution to 5.4
with sodium hydroxide then heat the water to 70 deg. C. While stirring the
solution strongly add a solution of 6.5 gms. of sodium azide and 1.5 gms of
sodium hydroxide in 250 mls. of distilled water. Continue stirring for 5 min.
Filter out the lead azide and wash with about 500 mls. of distilled water.
Store the lead azide under water until needed.
Secondary Explosives Used in Detonators
These explosives are relatively insensitive and are used to strengthen the
explosion of the detonator. These explosives are classified as a high
explosive.
Picric Acid: This process was taught by the CIA for their improvised explo-
sives course. It produces an explosive from aspirin.
Crush 20, 5 grain aspirin tablets and add 1 tsp. of water to it to make a
paste. Stir in 1/2 cup of ethyl alcohol to the aspirin paste and then filter
the solution to remove any solid particles. Evaporate the alcohol and recover
the crystals that are left. Pour 1/3 cup of concentrated sulfuric acid into
a large jar and add the crystals from the alcohol solution. Heat the acid in
a simmering hot water bath for 15 mins. The acid should turn a reddish color.
Now add 15 gms. of potassium nitrate to the acid 5 gms. at a time while
stirring. Let the acid cool to room temperature then pour the acid slowly
into 1 1/2 cups of water and let it cool down again. Filter off the particles
of picric acid and wash them with 1 cup of ice water. Dry these crystals
before using them. Picric acid is a very strong dye. Contact with it will
stain just about anything. Picric acid also reacts with metal to form picrate
salts that are a hazard. Any metal in contact with picric acid should be
coated with an acid proof paint or an epoxy coat.
Guncotton: This is not very commonly used especially for detonators but for
improvised work it is perfect. Make an acid mixture composed of 3 parts by
volume concentrated nitric acid and 1 part concentrated sulfuric acid. Take
a small piece of cotton and quickly push it under the acid with a glass rod.
Leave it under the acid for 5 mins. then pull out the cotton and squeeze
out the excess acid. Quickly push it under water to wash out any acid rem-
aining in the cotton. Now wash the cotton in fresh water containing a few
percent of sodium bicarbonate. Pull the cotton apart to help the water get to
all the fibers. Now wash the cotton in warm water for 15 mins. If you want
to remove all the acid trapped in the fibers, expose the cotton to strong
sunlight for one or two days then wash it in a 3% sodium bicarbonate solution
for 1/2 hour followed by a wash with distilled water. If all this washing
sounds redundant it isn't. The acid gets trapped inside the fibers of the
cotton and causes the explosive to deteriorate after a while. Guncotton is
very spark sensitive and should be stored wet with water until used.
Cyclonite: Also known as cyclotrimethylenetrinitramine or simply RDX, this
is one of the most powerful explosives known. It is not too sensitive but as
with all explosives handle with care and common sense. RDX is produced by
nitrating hexamethylenetetramine (HMT). HMT is used to make fuel sticks for
use in small survival or camping stoves. It can be made by treating an
ammonia solution with formaldehyde and evaporating the liquid to obtain the
HMT. If you have problems getting formaldehyde, check out a boating supply
or paint store for resorcinal glue. It is a two part glue, one part which is
paraformaldehyde. This is a powder and is simply a polymer of formaldehyde
which you can use. Cool 60 gms of 100% nitric acid to 0 deg. C. and add 5
gms. of HMT to the acid in several small portions while not letting the
temperature go above 30 deg. C. When all the HMT is added, let the acid cool
down to 0 deg. C. then let it stand for 20 mins. At that time, dump the acid
into two pints of cold water. The RDX will precipitate and should be filtered
out and then washed with water until it is free of acid. The RDX can be
stored dry in a cool place until needed.
Making a Detonator
Obtain a small brass tube with a 1/4" I.D. and seal one end with an epoxy
plug. The length of the tube should be about 3". Weigh out 1 gm. of one
of the secondary explosives and press it into the bottom of the tube .25 gm.
at a time. Do not subject the explosive to shock but press it in the tube
with a wooden dowel to avoid all sparks. Press a small paper disk down onto
the explosive. Weigh out .75 gm. of a primary explosive and press this into
the tube .25 gm. at a time. If you are using an electric ignitor, insert it
into the tube up against the primary explosive and seal the ignitor into the
tube with a little epoxy. These detonators are much more powerful than the
standard commercial or military detonator and should be able to detonate any
explosive you are using.
An electric ignitor for a detonator can be made as follows.
Take a small (3/8" long) section of tube that you are using for the detonator
and coat the inside with silicone or wax. Put the tube onto a piece of wax-
paper. Fold a length of 27 ga. solid wire into a hairpin loop and hold the
loop in the tube up against the waxpaper. Put a few drops of 5 min. epoxy in
the tube and let it harden. Now fill up the rest of the tube with the epoxy.
Peel the waxpaper away from the tube and push the epoxy plug out of the tube.
Take a file and file the end of the plug until the wire diameter at the loop
is reduced to 1/4 the original diameter. Mix a small amount of black powder
with dextrin and water to make a paste then coat the wire loop. When 6 - 12
volts are connected to the wire leads the black powder will flash. This can
be sealed into a detonator if you want to make it an electric detonator.
You can take a shotgun primer and make up a brass collar to hold it tightly
in a detonator tube. A little bit of epoxy will seal it into the end of the
detonator if you want to make a percussion initiated detonator.
Be careful when making, storing, and using detonators. Too many accidents
have been attributed to the careless handling of them.
*** Kilroy was here ***
PrimoPyro1990
.... Electrical Delays ....
DISCLAIMER: The following file contains information of harmful or illegal
nature. Neither the BBS or author providing this information
can be considered responsible for the use of this file.
The person using this knowledge is solely responsible for
it's use or misuse. This file is intended to educate only.
This file is companion to 2 GIF files. These files are schematics for electr-
onic delay circuits.
To produce delays in the ignition or detonation of pyrotechnic
devices, chemical, electrical, and mechanical devices can be used. In the
chemical family there are various ways to cause a delay. The foremost is
probably sulfuric acid and a chlorate. The chlorate is mixed with a combus-
tible substance and a rubber balloon filled with sulfuric acid is placed in
the chlorate mixture. Depending on the thickness of the balloon and the
ambient temperature, the acid will eat through the balloon in anywhere from
5 mins. to 3 hrs. When the acid contacts the chlorate mix, the mix will catch
fire. There are other reactions such as silver nitrate/magnesium and water,
potassium permanganate and glycerin, and sodium peroxide/sawdust and water.
Mechanical delays are usually a clockwork device that releases a spring
powered firing pin to detonate a primer. The clockwork can also be used to
close an electrical circuit to set off a detonator.
In the electrical family there are many ways to make a delayed ignitor. One
way which is an electrochemical reaction is to make a delayed battery. This
device uses a dry battery consisting of alternate pieces of zinc and copper
sheet metal. This is a battery which only needs an electrolyte to cause a
current to flow. If you use sulfuric acid as the electrolyte, you can arrange
a barrier to keep the acid from the battery. When the acid eats through the
barrier and wets the battery a current will flow which can be used to set off
a detonator. Each cell (one set of copper/zinc) will produce about 1.5 v.
You will have to make sure that there is enough surface area in each cell to
provide enough current (amperage) to trigger the detonator. Any number of
cells can be wired in parallel to produce enough amps. The problem with this
delayed battery is it is temperature sensitive. The acid will eat through
the barrier faster on a hot day than on a cold day.
A long delay device can be made from a simple relay and a few batteries.
Wire up a relay to a battery to hold the normally closed contacts open. A
second set of batteries is then wired to these contacts to supply current for
a detonator. Since the first set of batteries are holding the contacts open,
no current flows through the detonator. As soon as the first set of batteries
loose enough power, the contacts will close and the firing circuit will be
complete, firing the detonator. An optional resistor can be used to limit the
current to the relay thus lengthening the delay a bit. Enough current must be
supplied however to operate the relay. This delay will be found to be sensi-
tive to shock and vibration as the contacts can be closed prematurely if the
relay case is tapped too hard. Insert a safety switch in the detonator side
of the circuit to be thrown after the power to the relay is applied.
Fig. 1
This is an electronic delay that can be tailor made for delays from a few
seconds to a couple of hours. It consists of a 555 IC Timer wired in an
astable mode to provide clock pulses to a CMOS 4017 Decade Counter/Divider.
A 555 can be made to provide delays of about 20 mins. after that the sizes
of the timing capacitor and resistor gets a little large. The 4017 will
count these pulses and can be used to lengthen the delay.
Parts list
------------
R1 --- this is actually a multi-pole switch wired with a number of different
resistors so you can dial in the delay you want
R2 --- 1K ohm 5%
R3 --- 440 ohm 5%
C1 --- Timing capacitor - Pick a capacitor to suit the delay you want.
Typical values are 100 ufd. to 200 ufd.
C2 --- .001 ufd.
Q1 --- 2N222 npn - If your load needs more power wire a power transistor
as a darlington pair.
IC1 --- 555 IC timer - A CMOS type is available if you want to cut the power
requirements.
IC2 --- 4017 CMOS Decade Counter
SW1 --- SPDT switch
Breadboard this circuit to understand how it works. That way you can plug in
different values for the timing circuit to give you the range of delays you
may want. To use the timer, make sure sw1 is holding pin 15 of IC2 to Vcc.
This makes sure the counter is reset. Apply power to the timer then throw
sw1 to put pin 15 at ground potential. Depending on the delay you want, take
the delay off pins 1 - 12 of IC2. The schematic shows pin 11 as being used.
When you have adjusted the timer components to give you the delay range you
want, layout a pc board and mount the components to suit.
Fig. 2
A new programmable timer chip has been released. This chip uses less power
and parts than the 555/4017 device. The chip can be found in Radio Shack for
about $3.00. It is a LS7210 programmable digital delay timer. By varying a
resistor/capacitor combination you alter an internal oscillator and set a
fundamental delay period or LSB. Then by putting any combination of 5 pins
low, you can choose the delay to be LSB, LSB+2, LSB+1, LSB+3, or MSB. With
LSB at 1 min. the timer can be made to give delays of 1, 2, 4, 8, or 16 mins.
By seting pin 8 (16) and pin 11 (2) low, the timer will give a delay of 18
mins.
Parts List
-----------
IC1 --- LS7210 digital timer
R1 --- 4.7K Current limiting resistor
R2 --- Timing resistor - Choose value for appropriate delay
C1 --- Timing capacitor - "" ""
SW1 --- SPDT switch - Trigger
SW2 --- DIP switch - 5 place microswitch to set time delay
Q1 --- 2N222 npn transistor
Assemble the circuit on a universal breadboard to get a feel for the circuit
and to help set the fundemantal delay. You can use 1% metal film resistors
and a trimming resistor to obtain an accurate delay. Remember to use the same
power source in the tests as you plan to use in practise as the timer is
sensitive to voltage changes. You can obtain an LSB of one hour by using a
47 mfd. capacitor and a resistance of about 70.7 Kohms. If you desire to pre-
set the delay, use a hard wired connection instead of the microswitch.
SW1 the trigger, is set to the positive position, the power is then applied,
and sw1 is thrown to the negative to start the timer.
An idea to use if you want the timer to self-destruct. Wire the delay point
to point without using any sort of pcboard or any other type of board. Use
solid wire to lend the delay some support. Then in a suitable container, put
an appropriate amount of PBX. This is Plastic Bonded Explosive. It is made by
mixing 85% PETN and 15% Polystyrene plastic. The mixture is wet down with
acetone to blend the ingredients properly. While the explosive is still wet,
insert the delay into the PBX and let it harden. Use the detonator from the
delay to set off the PBX which in turn can set off your main charge. The PBX
will vaporize most of the delay.
*** Kilroy was here ***
How To Treat A Chemical Burn
The following question and answer might be of value to some of your users
DEAR SIR.
I WORK FOR ONE THE THE LARGE ELECTRONICS COMPANY'S HERE IN THE
VALLEY. I WORK AROUND VERY HAZARDIS CHEMICALS SOME KNOWN TO ME
AS E-6, HF. I ALSO WORK AROUND RF. EVERY DAY WHILE IN WORK MY
EYES WATER, BURN, I HAVE TO BLINK VERY OFTEN TO KEEP MY EYES FROM
FALLING OUT. PEOPLE AROUND ME ASK WHY I BLINK AND SWINT SO MUCH. I ONLY
DO THIS AT WORK DURING MY 8 HR SHIFT. COULD THIS HAVE TO DO WITH THE
WORK AREA. ALSO I WORK UNDER YELLOW LIGHTS ALL DAY AT WORK ALSO.
===========================================================================
Various chemicals have, from time to time, been implicated in causing
irritation of the eyes. Solvent fumes such as E-6 and etchants such as HF
are known cuses of this problem. The fumes of HydroFlouric acid combine
with water to form a very caustic solution which is strong enough to etch
glass. Solvents, especially degreasers, can alter the tear film layer of
the eye by dissolving out the lipid component of tears. When the lipid
(fat) portion of tears is reduced, the eyes will feel dry and more tearing
results. These tears will also be acted upon by the solvent and the cycle
will continue. Immediate treatment of such cases is removal from the
causative environment. The symptoms are treated with artificial tear agents
which act to stabilize the tear layer allowing the eye to come back to
normal. The accompanying blood vessel reaction is treated with an anti-
inflammatory agent which also acts to reduce the cellular response which
resembles an "allergic" reaction. Generally relief is immediate but the
total response time depends upon the duration and amount of exposure.
Continued exposure can lead to the usual signs and symptoms of chronic
contact reactions with the appearence of scarring, pterygia formation,
thickened lids and drying of the skin. Continued tearing leads to glare
and to skin irritation. Atopic dermatitis is sometimes seen in severe
cases and sensitization of the eyes to other chemicals can occur.
The eye is not the only part of the body to be involved. The mucous
membranes of the mouth and nose as well as the lining of the air passages
and lungs are also reacting to this insult. Some of this material will
find passage into the circulation as well and thereby affect distant,
internal organs. The information on such dispersal is not great. In short,
not much is known. To respect the unknown is prudent and a survival trait
of great value.
OSHA has very clear guidelines to the safety levels of such chemicals
however, these reccomendations are general and do not take into
consideration individual sensitivity. The wearing of contact lenses in
such an environment and under such circumstances is not reccomended.
Electronics fabrication facilities, especially those involved in
manufacturing circuit boards use a variety of exotic solvents. This fact
coupled with the fumes from fluxes and soldering makes such an area a
real eye hazard. It is becoming readily apparent, that while the human
animal is very adaptable and hard to destroy, there is a limit to the
toxicity levels that can be tolerated. We continue to produce "aerosols"
of increasing toxicity with no thought to their longterm effects.
"Guidelines" from OSHA and others not-with-standing, the levels set as safe
are far to high. My advice to the questioner is to demand transfer to a
healthier portion of the plant.
FREE CANDY, SNACKS, COINS, TOKENS ANBD OTHER FINE MATERIAL.
We all know those snack machines, coin machines, soda machines that
allow dollar bills to be excepted. Here is a quick and easy way get all
of those items for free and sometimes also making money at the same time.
All you need is a dollar bill and a long strip of clear tape (you will want
it to be the width of the dollar). What you do is at the very end of the
dollar bill is tape an end of the tape to it and then fold the tape in half
(the long way). So it should sort of look like this, a long section of
tape (around 6 to 8 inches long) folded so it is the smooth side
and not the sticky side attached to the end of a dollar bill. Now,
stick the dollar end of the bill into the dollar slot. The dollar will go
in with part of the tape (there should be enough tape left for you to be
holding on to). Now pull the tape out along with the dollar bill. The
machine thinks that you paid a dollar so now make a selection. You
should be able to get the candy or whatever along with the change. So,
you end up with a candy and 50 cents in change for nothing! This
works the best on Lance Snack machines but feel free to trhy it on others
too. If you are a little confused on how this should look feel free to
take a look at the picture that I made using .BMP format called
candy.bmp.
GOOD LUCK,
-=] Hacking [=-
--- ------- ---
-=] Conferance calls [=-
--- ---------- ----- ---
*I recomend that you do this local*
To make a conference call with as many people you want, just call
the operator ("0") and say "Hello, I'd like to make a conference
call."
Then give the (first) Names (not pirate names, ether) and the
phone #'s of the people you want to call And she'll do it.(hint:
make sure that the people you are callin are expecting it.
because its damn annoying to be talking to 3 people and having
the third be busy for the whole time
-=] Charge-a-call phones [=-
--- ------------- ------ ---
On a charge-a-call phone (there blue but dont have any coin
slots) take a hex wrench (with a hole in the middle) and remove
the screw in the middle for an extention!
-=] Free calls [=-
--- ---- ----- ---
From a pay phone, (the kind that gives you a dial tone AFTER you
put in the dime) and drop in your dime. Then dial the #, then
put another dime in! It'll come back out when you finish your
call.
{What!?!?! Some one tell me if he's serious!}
{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}
{=--=} {=--=}
{=--=} Picking Combination Locks {=--=}
{=--=} {=--=}
{=--=} Written by: The Byte Byter {=--=}
{=--=} {=--=}
{=--=} The writer of this text file takes <all> resp- {=--=}
{=--=} onsibility for what this text file is used for.{=--=}
{=--=} Hopefully it will only be used for illegal pur-{=--=}
{=--=} poses cuz i can't think of a reason it can be {=--=}
{=--=} used for legally. Well, on with the text file. {=--=}
{=--=} {=--=}
{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}
Ok, so ya say ya wanna learn how to pick combination
locks...This text file should help you. As a matter of fact, if
ya do it right, it will help you. First of all, let me tell you
about the set-up of a lock. When the lock is locked, there is a
curved piece of metal wedged inside the little notch on the
horseshoe shaped bar that is pushed in to the lock when you lock
it.
To free this wedge, you must(must is a word used to much) you
usually(that sounds much better) have to turn the lock to the
desired combination and the pressure on the wedge is released
therefore letting the lock open. I will now tell you how to make
a pick so you can open a lock without having to waste all that
time turning the combination (this also helps when ya don't know
the combination to begin with). First of all, ya need to find a
hairpin. What's a hairpin? Well, just ask your mom. She will
have one. If she asks what its for, say ya gotta hold something
together... If she says use a rubberband or use a paperclip,
tell her to Fuck Off and Die and then go to the store and rip off
a box of 50 or so.
Ok, enough stalling (yea, i was stalling). Once you have your
hair pin (make sure its metal), take the ridged side and break it
off right before it starts to make a U-turn onto the straight
side. The curved part can now be used as a handle. Now, using a
file, file down the other end until it is fairly thin. You
should do this to many hairpins and file them so they are of
different thicknesses so you can pick various locks. Some locks
are so cheap that ya don't even have ta file! But most are not.
Ok, now you have a lock pick. Now if ya haven't figured it out,
here's how ya use it.
Page 67
You look at a lock to see which side the lock opens from. If you
can't tell, you will just have to try both sides. When ya find
out what side it opens from, take the lock pick and stick the
filed end into the inside of the horseshoe-shaped bar on
whichever side the lock opens from. Now, put pressure on the
handle of the lock pick (pushing down, into the crack) and pull
the lock up and down. The lock will then open because the pick
separated the wedge and the notch allowing us thieves to open it.
Don't say bullshit until you've tried it. because i have gotten
lots of beer money from doin' this to fellow students'
gym lockers. Also, this technique works best on American locks.
I have never picked a Master lock before because of the shape a
pressure of the wedge but if anyone does it, let me know how long
it took. Also, the Master lock casing is very tight so ya can't
get the pick in. So, if you're locking something valuable up,
use a Master, cuz at least ya know I won't be picking it and I'm
sure there aren't that many that could. And when i say pick, i
don't mean lighting a stick of dynamite next to the lock, picking
is opening a lock without using force, making a substitute key,
etc... If any of you believe that this information is not
sufficient for picking an American lock, or any other kind
besides Master, leave me a message at
/\/\etalland 1 (503) 538-0761.
This concludes my text file on picking combination locks.
My next text file will probably be "Picking key locks".
See ya later.
The Byte Byter
^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^
||| |||| |||||
^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^
^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^
][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][
][ BROUGHT TO YOU BY ][
][ COMPUTER PIRATES OF UTAH ][
][ COURTESY OF THE SAFEHOUSE ][ Ya it's in all CAPS.
][ (801)-264-8201 ][ I got sick of trans-
][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][ lating.
[+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+] I did put it to 80
[+] [+] columns though, 'stead
[+] L O C K P I C K I N G [+] of the lame 40 columns
[+] [+] which takes up too much
[+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+] paper when printed and
[+] [+] read.
[+] WRITTEN BY: DARC DEATHE [+]
[+] [+]
[+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+]
THIS TUTORIAL WILL DEMONSTRATE HOW TO "PICK" A PIN TUMBLER LOCK.
USE OF THIS MATERIAL IS FOR LOCKSMITHS ONLY, ANY
USE OF THIS INFORMATION FOR ILLEGAL PURPOSES IS FORBIDDEN AND
AGAINST THE LAW. (AS LONG AS WE ARE AT IT, DO YOU
WANT TO BUY SOME LAND IN FLORIDA?) IN ORDER TO PICK A PIN TUMBLER
LOCK, YOU WILL REQUIRE FOUR ITEMS:
A LOCK,
YOU,
A PICK,
AND A TENSION WRENCH.
YOU CAN USSUALLY GET THESE AT A LOCKSMITH STORE, IF YOU CAN NOT
FIND ONE NEAR YOU THERE WILL BE AN ADDRESS AT THE END OF
THE ARTICLE THAT YOU CAN ORDER THEM FROM. HERE IS AN ILLUSTRATION
OF A PICK AND A TENSION WRENCH:
________/ !________
PICK TENSION WRENCH
MOST PEOPLE KNOW OF THE NEED FOR THE PICK, BUT HAVE NO IDEA WHAT
THE WRENCH IS FOR. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT AND WITHOUT IT IT WOULD
BE IMPOSSIBLE TO PICK A LOCK.
Page 69
IN ORDER TO PICK A LOCK, WE MUST COUNT UPON THE IMPERFECTION OF
THE LOCK. BEFORE WE LOOK AT HOW TO ACTUALLY PICK
THE LOCK, WE WILL LOOK AT THE PARTS OF IT AND HOW THE
IMPERFECTION PART FITS IN. HERE IS A DISSASSEMBLED LOCK:
/ / / /
\ \ \ \
SPRINGS -> / / / /
\ \ \ \
_ _ _ _
! ! ! ! ! ! ! !
! ! ! ! ! ! ! !
DRIVERS ->! ! ! ! ! ! ! !
!_! !_! !_! !_!
_ _
! ! _ ! !
BOTTOM PINS ->! ! ! ! _ ! !
! ! ! ! ! ! ! !
\_/ \_/ \_/ \_/
_____________________
! : : : : : : : : !
HOUSING ->! : : : : : : : : !
! : : : : : : : : !
!___: :_: :_: :_: :___!
! : : : : : : : : !
PLUG ->! : : : : : : : : !
!______________________!
! !
! !
! !
!_____________________!
___
/ \
! !__ _ _
! \__ / \_/ \__
! \/ \
\__/------------------- <- KEY
WHEN YOU INSERT A KEY INTO A LOCK, THE BOTTEM PINS ARE PUSHED UP,
AND IF IT IS THE PROPER KEY, THE TOPS OF THE BOTTOM PINS WILL
MATCH WITH THE SPOT WHERE THE PLUG AND HOUSING MEET, THUS
ALLOWING YOU TO TURN THE PLUG, AND OPEN THE DOOR, ETC.. WHEN YOU
INSER THE KEY, THE BOTTOM PINS GO INTO THE VALLEYS OF THE KEY,
THUS MEANING THAT THE KEY MUST HAVE THE RIGHT HEIGHT VALLEYS TO
MAKE THE LOCK OPEN. PRETTY ELEMENTRY, RIGHT?
WELL NOW WE CAN MOVE ON TO HOW TO PICK A LOCK.
Page 70
IN ORDER TO PICK A LOCK WE (AS I SAID BEFORE) DEPEND ON THE
INACCURACY OF THE MANUFACTURING PROCESS. THE FIRST THING
TO DO IS TO INSERT THE TENSION WRENCH INTO THE LOCK AND APPLY A
SLIGHT PRESSURE TO THE LEFT (OR RIGHT IF YOU WISH) SO THAT IF YOU
COULD LOOK INSIDE THE LOCK AT WHERE THE PLUG AND THE HOUSING
WOULD MEET, IT WOULD LOOK LIKE THIS:
! !*! !
HOUSING ! !*!<----Spring
! !*! !
__________! !*! !___________
__________ !*! ____________
! !*!!
PLUG ! !_!!
! _ !
! !*!<-----Pin
! \_/!
NOW A SLIGHT PRESURE IS ON THE PINS. BECAUSE THE PINS CAN NOT BE
PRODUCED EXACTLY THE SAME, THERE IS ONE PIN WHICH IS THE WIDEST
AND THERE FORE HAS MORE TENSION ON IT, AND ONE WHICH IS
THE THINNEST AND HAS ALMOST NO PRESSURE ON IT. WE NOW USE THE
PICK TO >GENTLY< PUSH EACH PIN UP (AND TRY TO FEEL IT
WHEN YOU LET IT DOWN) UNTIL WE FIND WHICH IS THE TIGHTEST ON AND
WHICH IS LOOSEST. GETTING THE FEEL FOR THIS IS THE HARDEST PART
OF LOCK PICKING. NOW THAT YOU HAVE FOUND THE LOOSEST ONE,
GENTLY PRESS IT UPWARD UNTIL YOU FEEL A SLIGHT REDUCTION IN
TENSION ON THE TENSION WRENCH. THIS WILL HAPPEN WHEN
THE TOP OF THE BOTTOM PIN BECOMES EVEN WITH THE JUNCTION OF THE
PLUG AND THE HOUSING. DO NOT RELEASE ANY TENSION FROM THE WRENCH
NOW! THE DRIVER WILL NOW BE TRAPPED IN THE HOUSING AS
ILLUSTRATED HERE: (DON'T I DRAW PRETTY)
! !*! !
HOUSING ! !*! !
! !*! !
___________! !_! !___________
_______________ ___________
! !*! !
PLUG ! !*! !
! \_/ !
! !
NOW YOU CONTINUE THIS PROCESS WITH EACH OF THE PINS UNTIL YOU
WORK YOUR WAY UP TO THE ONE THAT IS WIDEST. WITH SOME
PRACTICE YOU CAN GET FAIRLY FAST AT THIS. I SUGGEST PRACTICING ON
A FOUR PIN TUMBLER LOCK THAT IS BOUGHT FROM A HARDWARE STORE, THE
CHEAPER THE BETTER.
Page 71
I WOULD LIKE TO DISCUSS A PATICULAR CONFIGURATION OF THE PINS NOW
THAT MAY PRESENT A PARTICULARLY HARD JOB TO PICK. THIS IS
GRAPHICLY SHOWN HERE BY THE TWO MIDDLE PINS:
!*! !*! !*! !*!
!*! !*! !_! !*!
!*! !*! _ !*!
!_! !*! !*! !_!
_ !*! !*! _
!*! !*! !*! !*!
!*! !_! !*! !*!
!*! _ !*! !*!
!*! !*! !*! !*!
\_/ \_/ \_/ \_/
\_______________
WHEN YOU TRY TO PUSH THE 2ND PIN FROM THE LEFT UP, YOU WILL
UNAVOIDABLY BE PUSHING THE ONE IN FRONT OF IT UP BE-
CAUSE OF IT'S LONG BOTTOM PIN. THE ONLY SOLUTION FOR THIS IS TO
GET A SPECIAL PICK THAT LOOKS LIKE THIS:
\
\ _______________
\_/
THE MAJOR PROBLEM WITH THIS IS THAT IT IS HARD TO INITIALLY
DETECT. THE REASON THAT IT MAKES IT HARDER IF IT IS NOT
IMMEDIETLY APPERANT IS THAT YOU UnAVOIDABLY PUSH THE 3RD PIN FROM
THE LEFT UP INTO THE HOUSING, GETTING IT JAMMED:
! !*! !
HOUSING ! !_! !
! _ !
! !*! !
__________! !*! !________
___________ !*! ________
!!*!!
PLUG !!*!!
!\_/!
Page 72
I WOULD ALSO LIKE TO ADDRESS A TECHNIQUE CALLED RAKING. IT USES
A TOOL LIKE THIS:
\/\/\/\___________
BASICLY YOU "RAKE" IT BACK AND FORTH ACROSS THE PINS, HOPING THAT
COMBINED WITH THE TENSION IT WILL GIVE YOU THE RIGHT COMBINATION.
THIS WAY HAS BEEN KNOWN: FAST SOMETIMES, BUT IS NOT VERY
RELIABLE, AND I WOULD SUGGEST LEARNING TO ACTUALLY "PICK" THE
LOCK.
EARLIER I PROMISED AN ADDRESS TO ORDER LOCKSMITHING MATERIALS
FROM, SO HERE IT IS:
Garrison Protective Electronics
PO Box 128 <--Dropped to lower case to
Kew Gardens, New York, 11415 stand out better.
SOURCES: PERSONAL PRACTICE AND MANY EXCELLENT BOOKS FROM MENTOR
PRESS, IF YOU WOULD LIKE THEIR CATALOG, SEND A Self-
Addressed-Stamped-Envelope TO:
The Intelligence Library
Mentor Publications <--Ditto here.
135-53 Northern Blvd.
Flushing, NY 11354
AND ASK FOR ANY INFORMATION AVAILABLE ON THE INTELLIGENCE
LIBRARY. THIS CONCLUDES OUR EXTRAORDINAIRELY GRAPHIC ARTICLE ON
LOCK PICKING.
IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS, LEAVE E-MAIL FOR
-- Darc Deathe --
ON MOST NATIONAL BBS'S.
Edited by : Quasimoto
Re-Edited by : Dark Star
Re-Hashed by : DarkStorm
]]]]]]]]]]#[[[[[[[[[[
]] LOCK PICKING [[
]] BY [[
]] ^^^NIGHTWING^^^ [[
]]]]]]]]]]#[[[[[[[[[[
SO YOU WANT TO BE A CRIMINAL. WELL, IF YOU ARE WANTING TO BE LIKE
JAMES BOND AND OPEN A LOCK IN FIFTEEN SECONDS, GO TO HOLLYWOOD
BECAUSE THAT'S THE ONLY PLACE YOUR GONNA DO IT. EVEN EXPERIENCED
LOCKSMITHS CAN SPEND 5 TO 10 MINUTES ON A LOCK IF THEY'RE
UNLUCKY. IF YOU ARE LOOKING FOR EXTREMELY QUICK ACCESS,
LOOK ELSEWHERE.
THE FOLLOWING INSTRUCTIONS WILL PERTAIN MOSTLY TO THE
"LOCK-IN-KNOB" TYPE LOCK, SINCE IT IS THE EASIEST TO PICK. IF
THERE IS SUFFICIENT DEMAND, I WILL LATER WRITE A FILE DISCUSSING
THE OTHER FORMS OF ENTRANCE, INCLUDING DEAD-BOLT FIRST OF ALL,
YOU NEED A PICK SET. IF YOU KNOW A LOCKSMITH, GET HIM TO MAKE YOU
A SET. THIS WILL BE THE BEST POSSIBLE SET FOR YOU TO USE. IF YOU
FIND A LOCKSMITH WILLING TO SUPPLY A SET, DON'T GIVE UP HOPE. IT
IS POSSIBLE TO MAKE YOUR OWN, IF YOU HAVE ACCESS TO A GRINDER
(YOU CAN USE A FILE, BUT IT TAKES FOREVER.)
THE THING YOU NEED IS AN ALLEN WRENCH SET (VERY SMALL). THESE
SHOULD BE SMALL ENOUGH TO FIT INTO THE KEYHOLE SLOT. NOW, BEND
THE LONG END OF THE ALLEN WRENCH AT A SLIGHT ANGLE..(NOT 90 DEG.)
IT SHOULD LOOK SOMETHING LIKE THIS:
#1
\\
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ (THIS IS THE HANDLE
\\\ THAT WAS ALREADY
\\\ (HERE.)
\\\
\\\
\\\
NOW, TAKE YOUR PICK TO A GRINDER OR A FILE AND SMOOTH THE END
(#1) UNTIL IT'S ROUNDED SO IT WON'T HANG INSIDE THE LOCK. TEST
YOUR TOOL OUT ON DOORKNOBS AT YOUR HOUSE TO SEE IF IT WILL SLIDE
IN AND OUT SMOOTHLY.
Page 74
NOW, THIS IS WHERE THE SCREWDRIVER COMES IN. IS IT SMALL ENOUGH
FOR IT AND YOUR PICK TO BE USED IN THE SAME LOCK AT THE SAME
TIME, ONE ABOVE THE OTHER ?
LETS HOPE SO, BECAUSE THAT'S THE ONLY WAY YOUR GONNA OPEN IT.
IN THE COMING INSTRUCTIONS, PLEASE REFER TO THIS CHART OF THE
INTERIOR OF A LOCK:
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX| K
# # # # # # | E
# # # # | Y
* * | H
* * * * * * | O
| L
| E
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX|
#= UPPER TUMLER PIN
*= LOWER TUMLER PIN
X= CYLINDER WALL
(THIS IS A GREATLY SIMPLIFIED DRAWING)
THE OBJECT IS TO PRESS THE PIN UP SO THAT THE SPACE BETWEEN THE
UPPER PIN AND THE LOWER PIN IS LEVEL WITH THE CYLINDER WALL. NOW,
IF YOU PUSH A PIN UP, ITS TENDANCY IS TO FALL BACK DOWN, RIGHT ?
THAT IS WHERE THE SCREWDRIVER COMES IN.
INSERT THE SCREWDRIVER INTO THE SLOT AND TURN. THIS TENSION WILL
KEEP THE "SOLVED" PINS FROM FALLING BACK DOWN. NOW, WORK FROM THE
BACK OF THE LOCK TO THE FRONT, AND WHEN YOU'RE THROUGH..... THERE
WILL BE A CLICK, THE SCREWDRIVER WILL TURN FREELY, AND THE DOOR
WILL OPEN. DON'T GET DISCOURAGE ON YOUR FIRST TRY! IT WILL
PROBABLY TAKE YOU ABOUT 20-30 MINUTES YOUR FIRST TIME. AFTER THAT
YOU WILL QUICKLY IMPROVE WITH PRACTICE.
THIS IS BY NO MEANS THE MOST EFFICIENT WAY OF ENTERING A HOUSE.
IF YOU WOULD LIKE ANOTHER ITEM OR TWO DEVOTED TO THESE OTHER
WAYS, LET THE SYSOP KNOW.
+==========================================+
+ BE A LOCKPICK, GET INTO PADLOCKS +
+ "HOW TO CRACK A PADLOCK" +
+==========================================+
I must attribute this message/file to reading I have done from
another files about this, and some methods that I have made up on
my own.
This method has been only assured with "Master" padlocks. They
are a very common padlock.. This might only work on those, but
who knows..
First, pull the lock down, not so much as that it is impossible
to turn, but just enough to be able to do the following: Turn the
knob around clockwise (to the right) until you feel a small,
small resistance which will last 2-3 numbers on the dial long.
You might try doing this a few times to find the exact number
that it does this on, and not to be mistaken with another. Now,
add 5 to the number you have gotten. Guess what? You have the
first number in the combonation!
There are a few mehods to get the next number. I will tell you
both, one method, is very quick, but not always 100% reliable.
The other is very difficult.
QUICK METHOD: This method will get the last two numbers in the
combination in one step. --First, turn right and stop on the
first number you got. Then, turn left and stop on the first
number again. Continue turning to the left to the next marked
number. This means that the dial goes by five, and if your first
number is 18, go to the 20.. Then turn to the dial to the right
again, while pulling down on the lock (as hard as you pull to
unlock it if you have the right combo), and keep turning to the
right until you get to the 2nd number you've tried. If it doesn't
unlock, go on to the next marked number on the dial. (For
instance, you're first number is 18, you tried 20 past right, it
doesn't work, then try 25.) Keep doing this until eventually you
unlock it, or it doesn't work. The most times that you would have
to do this is about 8.
HARD, BUT NEVER FAILS METHOD: As in above, turn right to
your first number, and then turn left until you get your first
number again. Begin pulling down on the lock again, and trying to
feel for a little resistance. If it is very stiff, you probably
have the second number. If it is weak, then continue turning. You
should try 2 or 3 times to make sure you get the same results.
After you think you've got the second number, turn back to the
right, while pulling down on the lock between tries of oh, say
every 3 numbers, and eventually, CLICK, it will open.
//=DISCLAIMER: I am not held responsible for the use of this
information. This is for, let's say, basic knowledge... Let's
say, if you ever forget your combonation, or it is very important
you get into another lock.
This file/message has been brought to you by MASTER MICRO!
How to Hotwire a Car
By: The Marauder
The easiest way is to just get under the dashboard and start
crossing wires. Of course this could short out the entire
electrical system so there is a better way.
When you get in the car, look under the dash. If it's enclosed
then don't bother. Most new cars are like this unfortunately.
However you could cut through the dash. If you do cut just do it
near the ignition.
Once you get behind or near the ignition, look for two red
wires. In older cars this was the standard color code. If they
aren't there you'll just have to try whatever else you can find.
Pull out the two wires and cross them. The car should start.
Editors Note: This file is slightly dated there are other ways this is the
only one i know. Find a car in a secluded place (ie not in a place someone
will come running by every 3 min.) and bring something like a power-Drill
and a heavy duty saw (for the dashboard).
also a wire stripper (or cutter) to use on the wires. Also unless you don't
care about totally phucking over the cars electrical system don't cross too
many wires or it will mess up the system. ok have Phun! -dr Demented!
Conclusion
~~~~~~~~~~
That's it for this installment of Dr Demented's Handbook. I hope you found
some good stuff in here. Also this may or may not be in .ZIP format if all
you have is DDHB1A.TXT then stop reading now. Otherwise if you have DDHB2.ZIP
then You should have the Files:
FLDL.EXE
FLDL.DOC
FAKE.EXE
FAKE.DOC
OMNIBOX.EXE
*.IDX
FLDL is a Florida Drivers liscenece number generator which allows you to
create a drivers liscence number from information you enter. (only valid
in Florida) It's good for Fake Id's. Speaking of Fake Id's FAKE.EXE lets
you create Fake Names and Valid addresses. you can even select a sex for
your person for a male person type: Fake M 1
| | |
Program name----- | -------- #of identies
sex(M or F) (how many do you want)
This is good for calling bbses (pirate or H/p/A) if you don't want the Phedz
to get your name/address (in case the board is busted). Omni-Box is great for
getting Red/Blue/Green/white/Tasi Tones. This is great but DONT use the BLUE
BOX you will get busted! Ok with that said
