X-NEWS: cudnvr rec.pyrotechnics: 14936
Path: carbon!mercury.cair.du.edu!mnemosyne.cs.du.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.
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From: Henry Bornstein <[email protected]>
Newsgroups: rec.pyrotechnics
Subject: Re: Pyrotechincs cookbook
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 94 19:11:03 -0500
Organization: Delphi ([email protected] email, 800-695-4005 voice)
Lines: 2379
Message-ID: <[email protected]>
References: <[email protected]>
NNTP-Posting-Host: bos1a.delphi.com
X-To: Henry Bornstein <[email protected]>

Henry Bornstein <[email protected]> writes:

>I recieved this file about two weeks ago from a net.friend.
>Feel free to pass it along, and to search for updates on all anarchist
>bbs's u know.  If u find an update, please post it here...
>
>Onto the mayhem....
>
>

Soory about that... technical difficulties...

anyway...

[Index to the BHU's Cookbook v 1.0]

Index to the BHUUs Cookbook v 1.0..............................................i
Introduction by The BHU.......................................................ii
Counterfeiting Money...........................................................1
Credit Card Fraud..............................................................3
Making Plastic Explosives from Bleach..........................................6
Picking Master Locks...........................................................9
The Arts of Lockpicking I.....................................................10
The Arts of Lockpicking II....................................................13
Solidox Bombs.................................................................14
High Tech Revenge:  The Beigebox..............................................15
CO2 Bombs.....................................................................16
Thermite Bombs................................................................17
Touch Explosives..............................................................18
Letter Bombs..................................................................19
Paint Bombs...................................................................20
Ways to send a car to HELL....................................................21
Do ya hate school?............................................................22
Phone related vandalism.......................................................23
Highway police radar jamming..................................................24
Smoke Bombs...................................................................25
Mail Box Bombs................................................................26
Hotwiring cars................................................................27
Napalm........................................................................28
Fertilizer Bomb...............................................................29
Tennis Ball Bomb..............................................................30
Diskette Bombs................................................................31
Unlisted Phone Numbers........................................................32
Fuses.........................................................................33
How to make Potassium Nitrate.................................................34
Exploding Lightbulbs..........................................................36
Under water igniters..........................................................37
Home-brew blast cannon........................................................38
Chemical Equivalency List.....................................................40
Phone Taps....................................................................41
Landmines.....................................................................43
A different kind of Molitov Cocktail..........................................44
Phone Systems Tutorial I......................................................45
Phone Systems Tutorial II.....................................................50
Scantron Analysis.............................................................54
Find Info On People Thru Social Security #s...................................56
Having Fun At School (hehehe).................................................58
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  **      **  ** **  ** ** **    **  ** **  ** **  ** ** **
  **      **  ** **  ** ****     *****  **  ** **  ** ****    v1.0
  **      **  ** **  ** ** **    **  ** **  ** **  ** ** **
  ******* ****** ****** **  **   ****** ****** ****** **  **

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Hello! Welcome to the BHU's Cookbook v1.0! I hope that
this collection of text files has enough info to keep you hackers
busy for awhile (at least until the next update!). As I gather
information I will keep adding it and uploading it to my "home
base" bbs's in different cities with additional numbered files
and an updated index that you can just replace the old one with.

Thanks for taking the time to read this file  by the way. There are
a few things that I want to say about the Cookbook.

1) If I ever find out that anyone has omitted my name from
anywhere in these files without my expressed permission  then I
will immediately stop doing any updates and I will release your
name to as many boards that I can find  urging them to put you on
their Black List. I also  will FIND YOU! (I think you can see from
the knowledge base contained in this collection that I DO possess
the capability! You will wish it were the FEDS and not me!) In
other words  be careful who you give this collection to. Of
course there are idiots (probably the same ones who write
viruses!) that will misuse this information and kill some people
or get themselves & you into a lot of trouble! So keep this
treasure chest buried and only dig it up for those that you can
TRUST! Also you would be screwing yourself  because I still have
all kinds of things that I can put in here for updates  and you will
NEVER see them if I quit updating because of some asshole. So
think about it. If you WANT the updates (info you would probably
have a helluva time finding elsewhere!)  then STAY COOL with it.

2) I was going to encrypt these files and load/print them from
within an encrypted program. However  I have decided against that
for these reasons:

a) It would then be machine-exclusive
b) It would show that I don't trust you.
c) Only Atari ST users would ever see it.

So I decided on keeping it ASCII. ANY machine that can read ASCII
files can now read these.

3) Please do not use my handle to gain access to boards. you never
know where I might show up and I will have to find you and deal
with you if I ever see it. Don't make me do this.

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4) By releasing this database I am taking a real chance on you
people. I sure as hell don't want MY house blown up with a paint or
Solidox bomb! And I am sure that you don't want yours blown up
either (or your credit cards used for that matter). So I have to
stress again: BE FUCKING CAREFUL WHO YOU GIVE THIS TO!!

That is all for now. If I ever have to update this  it will just be
in the update archive as file 000.doc. Just replace the old one.

Enjoy this database! A lot more to come!!! -The BHU-
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Counterfeiting Money                            by The BHU

Before reading this article  it would be a very good idea to get a
book on photo offset printing  for this is the method used in
counterfeiting US currency.  If you are familiar with this method
of printing  counterfeiting should be a simple task for you.

Genuine currency is made by a process called "gravure"  which
involves etching a metal block.  Since etching a metal block is
impossible to do by hand  photo offset printing comes into the
process.

Photo offset printing starts by making negatives of the currency
with a camera  and putting the negatives on a piece of masking
material (usually orange in color).  The stripped negatives
commonly called "flats"  are then exposed to a lithographic plate
with an arc light plate maker.  The burned plates are then
developed with the proper developing chemical.  One at a time
these plates are wrapped around the plate cylinder of the press.

The press to use should be an 11 by 14 offset  such as the AB Dick
360.  Make 2 negatives of the portrait side of the bill  and 1 of
the back side.  After developing them and letting them dry  take
them to a light table.  Using opaque on one of the portrait sides
touch out all the green  which is the seal and the serial numbers.
The back side does not require any retouching  because it is all
one color.  Now  make sure all of the negatives are registered
(lined up correctly) on the flats.  By the way  every time you
need another serial number  shoot 1 negative of the portrait side
cut out the serial number  and remove the old serial number from
the flat replacing it with the new one.

Now you have all 3 flats  and each represents a different color:
black  and 2 shades of green (the two shades of green are created
by mixing inks).  Now you are ready to burn the plates.  Take a
lithographic plate and etch three marks on it.  These marks must
be 2 and 9/16 inches apart  starting on one of the short edges.
Do the same thing to 2 more plates.  Then  take 1 of the flats and
place it on the plate  exactly lining the short edge up with the
edge of the plate.  Burn it  move it up to the next mark  and
cover up the exposed area you have already burned.  Burn that  and
do the same thing 2 more times  moving the flat up one more mark.
Do the same process with the other 2 flats (each on a separate
plate).  Develop all three plates.  You should now have 4 images
on each plate with an equal space between each bill.

The paper you will need will not match exactly  but it will do for
most situations.  The paper to use should have a 25% rag content.
By the way  Disaperf computer paper (invisible perforation) does
the job well.  Take the paper and load it into the press.  Be sure
to set the air  buckle  and paper thickness right.  Start with the
black plate (the plate without the serial numbers).  Wrap it
around the cylinder and load black ink in.  Make sure you run more
than you need because there will be a lot of rejects.  Then  while
that is printing  mix the inks for the serial numbers and the back
side.  You will need to add some white and maybe yellow to the
serial number ink.  You also need to add black to the back side.
Experiment until you get it right.  Now  clean the press and print
the other side.  You will now have a bill with no green seal or
serial numbers.  Print a few with one serial number  make another
and repeat.  Keep doing this until you have as many different
numbers as you want.  Then cut the bills to the exact size with a
paper cutter.  You should have printed a large amount of money by
now  but there is still one problem;  the paper is pure white.  To
dye it  mix the following in a pan:  2 cups of hot water  4 tea
bags  and about 16 to 20 drops of green food coloring (experiment
with this).  Dip one of the bills in and compare it to a genuine
US bill.  Make the necessary adjustments  and dye all the bills.
Also  it is a good idea to make them look used.  For example
wrinkle them  rub coffee grinds on them  etc.

As before mentioned  unless you are familiar with photo offset
printing  most of the information in this article will be fairly
hard to understand.  Along with getting a book on photo offset
printing  try to see the movie "To Live and Die in LA".  It is
about a counterfeiter  and the producer does a pretty good job of
showing how to counterfeit.  A good book on the subject is "The
Poor Man's James Bond".

If all of this seems too complicated to you  there is one other
method available for counterfeiting:  The Canon color laser
copier.  The Canon can replicate ANYTHING in vibrant color
including US currency.  But  once again  the main problem in
counterfeiting is the paper used.  So  experiment  and good luck!
                                            -BHU-
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Credit Card Fraud                brought to you by The BHU

For most of you out there  money is hard to come by.  Until now:

With the recent advent of plastic money (credit cards)  it is
easy to use someone else's credit card to order the items you have
always desired in life.  The stakes are high  but the payoff is
worth it.

Step One:  Getting the credit card information

First off  you must obtain the crucial item:  someone's credit
card number.  The best way to get credit card numbers is to take
the blue carbons used in a credit card transaction at your local
department store.  These can usually be found in the garbage can
next to the register  or for the more daring  in the garbage
dumpster behind the store.  But  due to the large amount of credit
card fraud  many stores have opted to use a carbonless transaction
sheet  making things much more difficult.  This is where your
phone comes in handy.

First  look up someone in the phone book  and obtain as much
information as possible about them.  Then  during business hours
call in a very convincing voice - "Hello  this is John Doe from
the Visa Credit Card Fraud Investigations Department.  We have
been informed that your credit card may have been used for
fraudulent purposes  so will you please read off the numbers
appearing on your Visa card for verification."  Of course  use
your imagination!  Believe it or not  many people will fall for
this ploy and give out their credit information.

Now  assuming that you have your victim's credit card number  you
should be able to decipher the information given.

Step Two:  Recognizing information from carbon copies

Card examples:

[American Express]
XXXX XXXXXX XXXXX
MM/Y1 THRU MM/Y2
JOE SHMOE

[American Express]
XXXX XXXXXX XXXXX
MM/Y1 THRU MM/Y2
JOE SHMOE

Explanation:
  MM/Y1 is the date the card was issued  and MM/Y2 is the
  expiration date.  The American Express Gold Card has numbers
  XXXXXX XXXXXXXX XXXXXXXX  and is covered for up to $5000.00
  even if the card holder is broke.

[Mastercard]
5XXX XXXX XXXX XXXX
XXXX AAA DD-MM-YY MM/YY
JOE SHMOE

Explanation:
  XXXX in the second row may be asked for during the ordering
  process.  The first date is when the card was new  and the
  second is when the card expires.  The most frequent number
  combination used is 5424 1800 XXXX XXXX.  There are many of
  these cards in circulation  but many of these are on wanted
  lists  so check these first.

[Visa]
4XXX XXX(X) XXX(X) XXX(X)
MM/YY    MM/YY*VISA
JOE SHMOE

Explanation:
  Visa is the most abundant card  and is accepted almost
  everywhere.  The "*VISA" is sometimes replaced with "BWG"  or
  followed with a special code.  These codes are as follows:

  [1]  MM/YY*VISA V - Preferred Card
  [2]  MM/YY*VISA CV - Classic Card
  [3]  MM/YY*VISA PV - Premier Card

  Preferred Cards are backed with money  and are much safer to
  use.  Classic Cards are newer  harder to reproduce cards with
  decent backing.  Premier Cards are Classic Cards with Preferred
  coverage.  Common numbers are 4448 020 XXX XXX  4254 5123 6000
  XXXX  and 4254 5123 8500 XXXX.  Any 4712 1250 XXXX XXXX cards
  are IBM Credit Union cards  and are risky to use  although
  they are usually covered for large purchases.

Step Three:  Testing credit

You should now have a Visa  Mastercard  or American Express
credit card number  with the victim's address  zip code  and phone
number.  By the way  if you have problems getting the address
most phone companies offer the Address Tracking Service  which is
a special number you call that will give you an address from a
phone number  at a nominal charge.  Now you need to check the
balance of credit on the credit card (to make sure you don't run
out of money)  and you must also make sure that the card isn't
stolen.  To do this you must obtain a phone number that
businesses use to check out credit cards during purchases.  If you
go to a department store  watch the cashier when someone makes a
credit card purchase.  He/she will usually call a phone number
give the credit information  and then give what is called a
"Merchant Number".  These numbers are usually written down on or
around the register.  It is easy to either find these numbers and
copy them  or to wait until they call one in.  Watch what they
dial and wait for the 8 digit (usually) merchant number.  Once you
call the number  in a calm voice  read off the account number
merchant number  amount  and expiration date.  The credit bureau
will tell you if it is ok  and will give you an authorization
number.  Pretend you are writing this number down  and repeat it
back to them to check it.  Ignore this number completely  for it
serves no real purpose.  However  once you do this  the bank
removes dollars equal to what you told them  because the card was
supposedly used to make a purchase.  Sometimes you can trick the
operator by telling her the customer changed his mind and decided
not to charge it.  Of course  some will not allow this.  Remember
at all times that you are supposed to be a store clerk calling to
check out the card for a purchase.  Act like you are talking with
a customer when he/she "cancels".

Step Four:  The drop

Once the cards are cleared  you must find a place to have the
package sent.  NEVER use a drop more than once.  The following are
typical drop sites:

  [1]  An empty house

An empty house makes an excellent place to send things.  Send the
package UPS  and leave a note on the door saying  "UPS.  I work
days  8 to 6.  Could you please leave the package on the back door
step?"  You can find dozens of houses from a real estate agent by
telling them you want to look around for a house.  Ask for a list
of twenty houses for sale  and tell them you will check out the
area.  Do so  until you find one that suits your needs.

  [2]  Rent A Spot

U-Haul sometimes rents spaces where you can have packages sent and
signed for.  End your space when the package arrives.

  [3]  People's houses

Find someone you do not know  and have the package sent there.
Call ahead saying that "I called the store and they sent the
package to the wrong address.  It was already sent  but can you
keep it there for me?"  This is a very reliable way if you keep
calm when talking to the people.

Do NOT try post office boxes.  Most of the time  UPS will not
deliver to a post office box  and many people have been caught in
the past attempting to use a post office box.  Also  when you have
determined a drop site  keep an eye on it for suspicious
characters and cars that have not been there before.

Step Five:  Making the transaction

You should now have a reliable credit card number with all the
necessary billing information  and a good drop site.

The best place to order from is catalogues  and mail order houses.
It is in your best interest to place the phone call from a pay
phone  especially if it is a 1-800 number.  Now  when you call
don't try to disguise your voice  thinking you will trick the
salesperson into believing you are an adult.  These folks are
trained to detect this  so your best bet is to order in your own
voice.  They will ask for the following:  name  name as it appears
on card  phone number  billing address  expiration date  method of
shipping  and product.  Ask if they offer UPS Red shipping (next
day arrival)  because it gives them less time to research an
order.  If you are using American Express  you might have a bit of
a problem shipping to an address other than the billing address.
Also  if the salesperson starts to ask questions  do NOT hang up.
Simply talk your way out of the situation  so you won't encourage
investigation on the order.

If everything goes right  you should have the product  free of
charge.  Insurance picks up the tab  and no one is any wiser.  Be
careful  and try not to order anything over $500.  In some states
UPS requires a signature for anything over $200  not to mention
that anything over $200 is defined as grand theft  as well as
credit fraud.  Get caught doing this  and you will bite it for a
couple of years.  Good luck!
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Making Plastic Explosives from Bleach           by The BHU

Potassium chlorate is an extremely volatile explosive compound
and has been used in the past as the main explosive filler in
grenades  land mines  and mortar rounds by such countries as
France and Germany.  Common household bleach contains a small
amount of potassium chlorate  which can be extracted by the
procedure that follows.

First off  you must obtain:

[1]  A heat source (hot plate  stove  etc.)
[2]  A hydrometer  or battery hydrometer
[3]  A large Pyrex  or enameled steel container (to weigh
    chemicals)
[4]  Potassium chloride (sold as a salt substitute at health and
    nutrition stores)

Take one gallon of bleach  place it in the container  and begin
heating it.  While this solution heats  weigh out 63 grams of
potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being heated.
Constantly check the solution being heated with the hydrometer
and boil until you get a reading of 1.3.  If using a battery
hydrometer  boil until you read a FULL charge.

Take the solution and allow it to cool in a refrigerator until it
is between room temperature and 0 degrees Celsius.  Filter out the
crystals that have formed and save them.  Boil this solution again
and cool as before.  Filter and save the crystals.

Take the crystals that have been saved  and mix them with
distilled water in the following proportions:  56 grams per 100
milliliters distilled water.  Heat this solution until it boils
and allow to cool.  Filter the solution and save the crystals that
form upon cooling.  This process of purification is called
"fractional crystallization".  These crystals should be relatively
pure potassium chlorate.

Powder these to the consistency of face powder  and heat gently to
drive off all moisture.

Now  melt five parts Vaseline with five parts wax.  Dissolve this
in white gasoline (camp stove gasoline)  and pour this liquid on
90 parts potassium chlorate (the powdered crystals from above)
into a plastic bowl.  Knead this liquid into the potassium
chlorate until intimately mixed.  Allow all gasoline to evaporate.

Finally  place this explosive into a cool  dry place.  Avoid
friction  sulfur  sulfides  and phosphorous compounds.  This
explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density of 1.3
grams in a cube and dipped in wax until water proof.  These block
type charges guarantee the highest detonation velocity.  Also  a
blasting cap of at least a 3 grade must be used.

The presence of the afore- mentioned compounds (sulfur  sulfides
etc.) results in mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive
and will possibly decompose explosively while in storage.  You
should never store homemade explosives  and you must use EXTREME
caution at all times while performing the processes in this
article.

You may obtain a catalog of other subject of this nature by
writing:

    Information Publishing Co.
    Box 10042
    Odessa  Texas  79762
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Picking Master Locks                            by The BHU

Have you ever tried to impress someone by picking one of those
Master combination locks and failed?

The Master lock company made their older combination locks with a
protection scheme.  If you pull the handle too hard  the knob will
not turn.  That was their biggest mistake.

The first number:

Get out any of the Master locks so you know what is going on.
While pulling on the clasp (part that springs open when you get
the combination right)  turn the knob to the left until it will
not move any more  and add five to the number you reach.  You now
have the first number of the combination.

The second number:

Spin the dial around a couple of times  then go to the first
number you got.  Turn the dial to the right  bypassing the first
number once.  When you have bypassed the first number  start
pulling on the clasp and turning the knob.  The knob will
eventually fall into the groove and lock.  While in the groove
pull the clasp and turn the knob.  If the knob is loose  go to the
next groove  if the knob is stiff  you have the second number of
the combination.

The third number:

After getting the second number  spin the dial  then enter the two
numbers.  Slowly spin the dial to the right  and at each number
pull on the clasp.  The lock will eventually open if you did the
process right.

This method of opening Master locks only works on older models.
Someone informed Master of their mistake  and they employed a new
mechanism that is foolproof (for now).
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The Arts of Lockpicking I              courtesy of The BHU

Lockpicking I:  Cars and assorted other locks

While the basic themes of lockpicking and uninvited entry have not
changed much in the last few years  some modern devices and
techniques have appeared on the scene.

Automobiles:

Many older automobiles can still be opened with a Slim Jim type of
opener (these and other auto locksmithing techniques are covered
fully in the book "In the Still of the Night"  by John Russell
III);  however  many car manufacturers have built cases over the
lock mechanism  or have moved the lock mechanism so the Slim Jim
will not work.  So:

American Locksmith Service
P.O. Box 26
Culver City  CA  90230

ALS offers a new and improved Slim Jim that is 30 inches long and
3/4 inches wide  so it will both reach and slip through the new
car lock covers (inside the door).  Price is $5.75 plus $2.00
postage and handling.

Cars manufactured by General Motors have always been a bane to
people who needed to open them  because the sidebar locking unit
they employ is very difficult to pick.  To further complicate
matters  the new GM cars employ metal shields to make the use of a
Slim Jim type instrument very difficult.  So:

Lock Technology Corporation
685 Main St.
New Rochelle  NY  10801

LTC offers a cute little tool which will easily remove the lock
cylinder without harm to the vehicle  and will allow you to enter
and/or start the vehicle.  The GMC-40 sells for $56.00 plus $2.00
for postage and handling.

The best general automobile opening kit is probably a set of
lockout tools offered by:

Steck MFG Corporation
1319 W. Stewart St.
Dayton  OH  45408

For $29.95 one can purchase a complete set of six carbon lockout
tools that will open more than 95% of all the cars around.

Kwickset locks have become quite popular as one step security
locks for many types of buildings.  They are a bit harder to pick
and offer a higher degree of security than a normal builder
installed door lock.  So:

A MFG
1151 Wallace St.
Massilon  OH  44646

Price is $11.95.  Kwickset locks can handily be disassembled and
the door opened without harm to either the lock or the door by
using the above mentioned Kwick Out tool.

If you are too lazy to pick auto locks:

Veehof Supply
Box 361
Storm Lake  IO  50588

VS sells tryout keys for most cars (tryout keys are used since
there is no one master key for any one make of car  but there are
group type masters (a.k.a. tryout keys).  Prices average about
$20.00 a set.

Updated Lockpicking:

For years  there have been a number of pick attack procedures for
most pin and tumbler lock systems.  In reverse order of ease they
are as follows:

Normal Picking:  Using a pick set to align the pins  one by one
                until the shear line is set and the lock opens.

Racking:  This method uses picks that are constructed with a
         series of bumps  or diamond shape notches.  These picks
         are "raked" (i.e. run over all the pins at one time).
         With luck  the pins will raise in the open position and
         stay there.  Raking  if successful  can be much less of
         an effort than standard picking.

Lock Aid Gun:  This gun shaped device was invented a number of
              years ago and has found application with many
              locksmiths and security personnel.  Basically  a
              needle shaped pick is inserted in the snout of the
              "gun"  and the "trigger" is pulled.  This action
              snaps the pick up and down strongly.  If the tip is
              slipped under the pins  they will also be snapped
              up and down strongly.  With a bit of luck they will
              strike each other and separate at the shear line
              for a split second.  When this happens the lock
              will open.  The lock aid gun is not 100%
              successful  but when it does work  the results are
              very dramatic.  You can sometimes open the lock
              with one snap of the trigger.

Vibrator:  Some crafty people have mounted a needle pick into an
          electric toothbrush power unit.  This vibrating effect
          will sometimes open pin tumbler locks -- instantly.

There is now another method to open pin and wafer locks in a very
short time.  Although it resembles a toothbrush pick in
appearance  it is actually an electronic device.  I am speaking of
the Cobra pick that is designed and sold by:

Fed Corporation
P.O. Box 569
Scottsdale  AR  85252

The Cobra uses two nine volt batteries  teflon bearings (for less
noise)  and a cam roller.  It comes with three picks (for
different types of locks) and works both in America and overseas
on pin or wafer locks.  The Cobra will open group one locks
(common door locks) in three to seven seconds with no damage  in
the hands of an experienced locksmith.  It can take a few seconds
more or up to a half a minute for someone with no experience at
all.  It will also open group two locks (including government
high security  and medecos)  although this can take a short time
longer.  It will not open GM sidear locks  although a device is
about to be introduced to fill that gap.  How much for this toy
that will open most locks in seven seconds?

$235.00 plus $4.00 shipping and handling.

For you hard core safe crackers  FC also sells the MI-6 that will
open most safes at a cost of $10 000 for the three wheel attack
model  and $10 500 for the four wheel model.
It comes in a sturdy
aluminum carrying case with monitor  disk drive and software.

If none of these safe and sane ideas appeal to you  you can always
fall back on the magic thermal lance...

The thermal lance is a rather crude instrument constructed from
3/8 inch hollow magnesium rods.  Each tube comes in a 10 foot
length  but can be cut down if desired.  Each one is threaded on
one end.  To use the lance  you screw the tube together with a
matted regulator (like a welding outfit uses) and hook up an
oxygen tank.  Then oxygen is turned on and the rod is lit with a
standard welding ignitor.  The device produces an incredible
amount of heat.  It is used for cutting up concrete blocks or even
rocks.  An active lance will go through a foot of steel in a few
seconds.  The lance is also known as a burning bar  and is
available from:

C.O.L. MFG
7748 W. Addison
Chicago  IL  60634
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The Arts of Lockpicking II             courtesy of The BHU

So you want to be a criminal.  Well  if you want to be like James
Bond and open a lock in fifteen seconds  then go to Hollywood
because that is the only place you are ever going to do it.  Even
experienced locksmiths can spend five to ten minutes on a lock if
they are unlucky.  If you are wanting extremely quick access  look
elsewhere.  The following instructions will pertain mostly to the
"lock in knob" type lock  since it is the easiest to pick.

First of all  you need a pick set.  If you know a locksmith  get
him to make you a set.  This will be the best possible set for you
to use.  If you find a locksmith unwilling to supply a set  don't
give up hope.  It is possible to make your own  if you have access
to a grinder (you can use a file  but it takes forever).

The thing you need is an allen wrench set (very small).  These
should be small enough to fit into the keyhole slot.  Now  bend
the long end of the allen wrench at a slight angle (not 90
degrees).  Now  take your pick to a grinder or a file  and smooth
the end until it is rounded so it won't hang inside the lock.
Test your tool out on doorknobs at your house to see if it will
slide in and out smoothly.  Now  this is where the screwdriver
comes in.  It must be small enough for it and your pick to be used
in the same lock at the same time  one above the other.  In the
coming instructions  please refer to this chart of the interior of
a lock:
______________________________
                             \ K
       |  |  |  |   |   |    / E
          |     |   |   |    \ Y           [|]  Upper tumbler pin
                             / H           [  Lower tumbler pin
                             \ O           [-]  Cylinder wall
                             / L   (This is a greatly simplified
                             \ E    drawing)
______________________________/

The object is to press the pin up so that the space between the
upper pin and the lower pin is level with the cylinder wall.  Now
if you push a pin up  it's tendency is to fall back down  right?
That is where the screwdriver comes in.  Insert the screwdriver
into the slot and turn.  This tension will keep the "solved" pins
from falling back down.  Now  work from the back of the lock to
the front  and when you are through  there will be a click  the
screwdriver will turn freely  and the door will open.

Do not get discouraged on your first try!  It will probably take
you about twenty to thirty minutes your first time.  After that
you will quickly improve with practice.
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Solidox Bombs                                   by The BHU

Most people are not aware that a volatile  extremely explosive
chemical can be bought over the counter:  Solidox.

Solidox comes in an aluminum can containing 6 grey sticks  and can
be bought at Kmart  and various hardware supply shops for around
$7.00.  Solidox is used in welding applications as an oxidizing
agent for the hot flame needed to melt metal.  The most active
ingredient in Solidox is potassium chlorate  a filler used in many
military applications in the WWII era.

Since Solidox is literally what the name says:  SOLID OXygen  you
must have an energy source for an explosion.  The most common and
readily available energy source is common household sugar  or
sucrose.  In theory  glucose would be the purest energy source
but it is hard to find a solid supply of glucose.

Making the mixture:

[1]  Open the can of Solidox  and remove all 6 sticks.  One by
    one  grind up each of the sticks (preferably with a mortar
    and pestle) into the finest powder possible.
[2]  The ratio for mixing the sugar with the Solidox is 1:1  so
    weigh the Solidox powder  and grind up the equivalent amount
    of sugar.
[3]  Mix equivalent amounts of Solidox powder  and sugar in a 1:1
    ratio.

It is just that simple!  You now have an extremely powerful
substance that can be used in a variety of applications.  A word
of caution:  be EXTREMELY careful in the entire process.  Avoid
friction  heat  and flame.  A few years back  a teenager I knew
blew 4 fingers off while trying to make a pipe bomb with Solidox.
You have been warned!
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High Tech Revenge:  The Beigebox                by The BHU

The beigebox is simply a consumer lineman's handset  which is a
phone that can be attached to the outside of a person's house.  To
fabricate a beigebox  follow along.

Making a beigebox:

Obtain an old phone  and cut off the plug on the end.  Solder an
alligator clip onto the red wire  and the green wire.

Now  imagine the possibilities:  a $2000 dollar phone bill for
that special person  976 numbers galore  even harassing the
operator at no risk to you!  Think of it as walking into an
enemies house  and using their phone to your heart's content.

Connecting the beigebox:

Look on the outside of your victim's house  taking note of any
wires leading from a telephone pole to the exterior of their
house.  Follow the wires  and find where they connect.  The
telephone wire should be black  and about the width of your small
finger.  You do NOT want the 220 volt house current  unless you
like having a permanent orange afro.

When the telephone wire connects to the victim's house  it should
run down their wall  and into a small beige or grey box.  Some
boxes have a bolt in the dead center  and some have even gone as
far as to have a lock (smashing them open is no problem).  Now
you must open the box  and observe:  you should see three bolts
each with wires attached.  Connect the two alligator clips to the
two outside bolts  and then you should get a dial tone.  If you
do not get a dial tone  experiment with the connections.  By the
way  don't worry about getting electrocuted;  there is not enough
power in the phone lines to harm you.

After placing a few phone calls  if you really want to get even
pull all the wires out of the box.  This will result in about a
$100 dollar service charge for your enemy.

Use your imagination!
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How to make a CO2 bomb        by the BHU

You will have to use up the cartridge first by either shooting it
or whatever. With a nail  force a hole bigger so as to allow the
powder and wick to fit in easily. Fill the cartridge with black
powder and pack it in there real good by tapping the bottom of the
cartridge on a hard surface (I said TAP not SLAM!). Insert a fuse.
I recommend a good water-proof cannon fuse  or an m-80 type fuse
but firecracker fuses work  if you can run like a black man runs
from the cops after raping a white girl.) Now  light it and run
like hell! It does wonders for a row of mailboxes (like the ones
in apartment complexes)  a car (place under the gas tank)  a
picture window (place on window sill)  a phone booth (place right
under the phone)  or any other devious place. This thing throws
shrapnel  and can make quit a mess!!  -BHU-
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Thermite II... or A better way to make Thermite        by BHU

Thermite is nasty shit. Here is a good and easy way to make it.
The first step is to get some iron-oxide (which is RUST!). Here is
a good way to make large quantities in a short time:

- Get a DC convertor like the one used on a train set. Cut the
connector off  separate the wires  and strip them both.

- Now you need a jar of water with a tablespoon or so of sodium
chloride (which is SALT!) added to it. This makes the water
conductive.

- Now insert both wires into the mixture (I am assuming you
plugged the convertor in...) and let them sit for five minutes.
One of them will start bubbling more than the other. This is the
POSITIVE(+) wire. If you do not do this test right  the final
product will be the opposite (chemically) of rust  which is RUST
ACID. You have no use for this here (although it IS useful!).

- Anyway  put the nail tied to the positive wire into the jar. Now
put the negative wire in the other end. Now let it sit overnight
and in the morning scrape the rust off of the nail & repeat until
you got a bunch of rust on the bottom of the glass. Be generous
with your rust collection. If you are going through the trouble of
making thermite  you might as well make a lot  right?

- Now remove the excess water and pour the crusty solution onto a
cookie sheet. Dry it in the sun for a few hours  or inside
overnight. It should be an orange-brown color (although I have
seen it in many different colors! Sometimes the color gets fucked
up  what can I say... but it is still iron oxide!)

- Crush the rust into a fine powder and heat it in a cast-iron pot
until it is red. Now mix the pure iron oxide with pure aluminum
filings which can be bought or filed down by hand from an aluminum
tube or bar. The ratio or iron oxide to aluminum is 8 grams to 3
grams.

- Congrats! You have just made THERMITE! Now  to light it...

- Thermite requires a LOT of heat (more than a blow torch!) to
ignite. However  a magnesium ribbon (which is sorta hard to find..
call around) will do the trick.  It takes the heat from the
burning magnesium to light the thermite.

- Now when you see your victim's car  pour a fifty-cent sized pile
onto his hood  stick the ribbon in it  and light the ribbon with
the blow torch. Now chuckle as you watch it burn through the hood
the block  the axle  and the pavement. BE CAREFUL! The ideal
mixtures can vaporize CARBON STEEL! Another idea is to use
thermite to get into pay phone cash boxes. HAVE FUN!! -BHU-
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Touch Explosives                         by the BHU

This is sort of a mild explosive  but it can be quite dangerous in
large quantities. To make touch explosive (such as that found in a
snap-n-pop  but more powerful)  use this recipe:

- Mix iodine crystals into ammonia until the iodine crystals will
not dissolve into the ammonia anymore. Pour off the excess ammonia
and dry out the crystals on a baking sheet the same way as you
dried the thermite (in other words  just let it sit overnight!).

- Be careful now because these crystals are now your touch
explosive. Carefully wrap a bunch in paper (I mean carefully!
Friction sets 'em off!) and throw them around.. pretty loud  huh?
They are fun to put on someone's chair. Add a small fish sinker to
them and they can be thrown a long distance (good for crowds
football games  concerts  etc.) Have fun!  -BHU-

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Letter Bombs                            by The BHU

- You will first have to make a mild version of thermite. Use my
recipe  but substitute iron fillings for rust.

- Mix the iron with aluminum fillings in a ratio of 75% aluminum
to 25% iron. This mixture will burn violently in a closed space
(such as an envelope). This bring us to our next ingredient...

- Go to the post office and buy an insulated (padded) envelope.
You know  the type that is double layered... Separate the layers
and place the mild thermite in the main section  where the letter
would go. Then place magnesium powder in the outer layer. There is
your bomb!!

- Now to light it... this is the tricky part and hard to explain.
Just keep experimenting until you get something that works. The
fuse is just that touch explosive I have told you about in another
one of my anarchy files. You might want to wrap it like a long
cigarette and then place it at the top of the envelope in the
outer layer (on top of the powdered magnesium). When the touch
explosive is torn or even squeezed hard it will ignite the
powdered magnesium (sort of a flash light) and then it will burn
the mild thermite. If the thermite didn't blow up  it would at
least burn the fuck out of your enemy (it does wonders on human
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Paint Bombs                          by The BHU

To make a paint bomb you simply need a metal paint can with a
refastenable lid  a nice bright color paint (green  pink  purple
or some gross color is perfect!)  and a quantity of dry ice. Place
the paint in the can and then drop the dry ice in. Quickly place
the top on and then run like hell! With some testing you can time
this to a science. It depends on the ratio of dry ice to paint to
the size of the can to how full it is. If you are really pissed
off at someone  you could place it on their doorstep  knock on the
door  and then run!! Paint will fly all over the place HAHAHA!!
                                       -BHU-

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ways to send a car to Hell            by The BHU

There are 1001 ways to destroy a car but I am going to cover only
the ones that are the most fun (for you)  the most destructive
(for them)  and the hardest to trace (for the cops).

- Place thermite on the hood  light it  and watch it burn all the
way through the pavement!

- Tape a CO2 bomb to the hood  axel  gas tank  wheel  muffler
etc.)

- Put a tampon  dirt  sugar (this one is good!)  a ping pong ball
or just about anything that will dissolve in the gas tank.

- Put potatoes  rocks  banannas  or anything that will fit  into
the tailpipe. Use a broom handle to stuff 'em up into the
tailpipe.

- Put a long rag into the gas tank and light it...

- Steal a key  copy it  replace it  and then steal the stereo.

- Break into the car. Cut a thin metal ruler into a shape like
this:
            ----
            |  |
            |  |
            |  |
            | <
            ----

Slide it into the outside window and keep pulling it back up until
you catch the lock cable which should unlock the door. This device
is also called a SLIM JIM. Now get the stereo  equalizer  radar
detector  etc. Now destroy the inside. (A sharp knife does wonders
on the seats!)

Have Fun!                                    -BHU-
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Do ya hate school?                  by The BHU

- One of my favorites for getting out of a class or two is to call
in a bomb threat. Tell 'em that it is in a locker. Then they have
to check them all  whilst you can slip away for an hour or two.
You can even place a fake bomb (in any locker but YOURS!). They
might cancel school for a week while they investigate (of course
you will probably have to make it up in the summer...).

- Get some pure potassium or pure sodium  put it in a capsule  and
flush it down the toilet (smells awful! Stinks up the whole school!).

- Use a smoke grenade in the hallway.

- Steal the computer passwords & keys. Or steal the 80 column cards
inside if they are (gag) IBM.

- Make friends with student assistants and have them change your
grades when the teachers hand in their bubble sheets for the report
cards.

- Spit your gum out on the carpet in the library or whatever and
grind it into the carpet. Watch the janitors cry!

- Draw on lockers or spraypaint on the building that the principal
is a fascist.

- Stick a potato in the tailpipe of the principal's car.

- USE YOUR IMAGINATION!                   -BHU-
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Phone related vandalism                     by the BHU

If you live where there are underground lines then you will be
able to ruin someone's phone life very easily. All you must do is
go to their house and find the green junction box that interfaces
their line (and possibly some others in the neighborhood) with the
major lines. These can be found just about anywhere but they are
usually underneath the nearest phone pole. Take a socket wrench
and loosen the nut on the right. Then just take clippers or a
sledge hammer or a bomb and destroy the insides and pull up their
phone cable. Now cut it into segments so it can't be fixed but
must be replaced (There is a week's worth of work for 'em!!)
                                     -BHU-
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Highway radar jamming                       by The BHU

Most drivers wanting to make better time on the open road will
invest in one of those expensive radar detectors. However  this
device will not work against a gun type radar unit in which the
radar signal is not present until the cop has your car in his
sights and pulls the trigger. Then it is TOO LATE for you to slow
down. A better method is to continuously jam any signal with a
radar signal of your own. I have tested this idea with the
cooperation of a local cop and found that his unit reads random
numbers when my car approached him. It is suprisingly easy to make
a low power radar transmitter. A nifty little semiconductor called
a Gunn Diode will generate microwaves when supplied with the 5 to
10 volt DC and enclosed in the correct size cavity (resonater). An
8 to 3 terminal regulator can be used to get this voltage from a
car's 12v system. However  the correct construction and tuning of
the cavity is difficult without good microwave measurement
equipment. Police radars commonly operate on the K band at 22 ghz.
Or more often on the X band at 10.525 ghz. most microwave intruder
alarms and motion detectors (mounted over automatic doors in
supermarkets & banks  etc.) contain a Gunn type
transmitter/receiver combination that transmits about 10 kilowatts
at 10.525 ghz. These units work perfectly as jammers. If you
cannot get one locally  write to Microwave Associates in
Burlington  Massachusettes and ask them for info on 'Gunnplexers'
for ham radio use. When you get the unit it may be mounted in a
plastic box on the dash or in a weather-proff enclosure behind the
PLASTIC grille. Switch on the power when on an open highway. The
unit will not jam radar to the side or behind the car so don't go
speeding past the radar trap. An interesting phenomena you will
notice is that the drivers who are in front of you who are using
detectors will hit their brakes as you approach large metal signs
and bridges. Your signal is bouncing off of these objects and
triggering their radar detectors!       HAVE FUN!
                                      -BHU-

P.S. If you are interested in this sort of thing  get a copy of
POPULAR COMMUNICATIONS. The ads in there tell you where you can
get all kinds of info on all kinds of neat equipment for all kinds
of neat things!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Smoke Bombs                         by the BHU

Here is the recipe for one helluva smoke bomb!

4 parts sugar
6 parts potassium nitrate (Salt Peter)

Heat this mixture over a LOW flame until it melts  stirring well.
Pour it into a future container and  before it solidifies  imbed a
few matches into the mixture to use as fuses. One pound of this
stuff will fill up a whole block with thick  white smoke!
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Mail Box Bombs                                 by the BHU

(1) Two litre bottle of chlorine (must contain sodium hypochlorate)

   Small amount of sugar

   Small amount of water

Mix all three of these in equal amounts to fill about 1/10 of the
bottle. Screw on the lid and place in a mailbox. It's hard to
believe that such a small explosion will literally rip the mailbox
in half and send it 20 feet into the air! Be careful doing this
though  because if you are caught  it is not up to the person
whose mailbox you blew up to press charges. It is up to the city.
                                   -BHU-
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The easiest way to hotwire cars                 by the BHU

Get in the car. Look under the dash. If it enclosed  forget it
unless you want to cut through it. If you do  do it near the
ignition. Once you get behind or near the ignition look for two
red wires. In older cars red was the standard color  if not  look
for two matched pairs. When you find them  cross them and take
off!                                  -BHU-
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How to make Napalm                              by the BHU

- Pour some gas into an old bowl  or some kind of container.

- Get some styrofoam and put it in the gas  until the gas won't
eat anymore. You should have a sticky syrup.

- Put it on the end of something (don't touch it!!). The unused
stuff lasts a long time!
                                      -BHU-
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How to make a fertilizer bomb                       by BHU

Ingredients:

- Newspaper
- Fertilizer (the chemical kind  GREEN THUMB or ORCHO)
- Cotton
- Diesel fuel

Make a pouch out of the newspaper and put some fertilizer in it.
Then put cotton on top. Soak the cotton with fuel. Then light and
run like you have never ran before! This blows up 500 square feet
so don't do it in an alley!!               -BHU-
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Tennis Ball Bombs                               by The BHU

Ingredients:

- Strike anywhere matches
- A tennis ball
- A nice sharp knife
- Duct tape

Break a ton of matchheads off. Then cut a SMALL hole in the tennis
ball. Stuff all of the matchheads into the ball  until you can't
fit any more in. Then tape over it with duct tape. Make sure it is
real nice and tight! Then  when you see a geek walking down the
street  give it a good throw. He will have a blast!!
                                         -BHU-
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Diskette Bombs                                  by the BHU

You need:

- A disk
- Scissors
- White or blue kitchen matches (they MUST be these colors!)
- Clear nail polish

- Carefully open up the diskette (3.5" disks are best for this!)

- Remove the cotton covering from the inside.

- Scrape a lot of match powder into a bowl (use a wooden scraper
metal might spark the matchpowder!)

- After you have a lot  spread it evenly on the disk.

- Using the nail polish  spread it over the match mixture

- Let it dry

- Carefully put the diskette back together and use the nail polish
to seal it shut on the inside (where it came apart).

- When that disk is in a drive  the drive head attempts to read
the disk  which causes a small fire (ENOUGH HEAT TO MELT THE DISK
DRIVE AND FUCK THE HEAD UP!!). ahahahahaha! Let the fuckhead try
and fix THAT!!!                        -BHU-
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Unlisted Phone Numbers                          by The BHU

There are a couple of different ways of doing this. Let's see if
this one will help: Every city has one or more offices dedicated
to assigning numbers to the telephone wire pairs. These offices
are called DPAC offices and are available to service reps who are
installing or repairing phones. To get the DPAC number  a service
rep would call the customer service number for billing information
in the town that the number is located in that he is trying to get
the unlisted number of. (Got that?) The conversation would go
something like this: "Hi  Amarillo  this is Joe from Anytown
business office  I need the DPAC number for the south side of
town." This info is usually passed out with no problems  so... if
the first person you call doesn't have it  try another. REMEMBER
no one has ANY IDEA who the hell you are when you are talking on
the phone  so you can be anyone you damn well please! (heheheheh!)
When you call the DPAC number  just tell them that you need a
listing for either the address that you have  or the name. DPAC
DOES NOT SHOW WHETHER THE NUMBER IS LISTED OR UNLISTED!! Also  if
you're going to make a habit of chasing numbers down  you might
want to check into geting a criss-cross directory  which lists
phone numbers by their addresses. It costs a couple-a-hundred bux
but it is well worth it if you have to chase more than one or two
numbers down!                                -BHU-
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Fuses                            brought to you by The BHU

You would be surprised how many files are out there that use what
falls under the category of a "fuse." They assume that you just
have a few lying around  or know where to get them. Well  in some
parts of the country  fuses are extremely hard to come by... so
this file tells you how to make your own. Both fuses presented
here are fairly simple to make  and are fairly reliable.

SLOW BURNING FUSE
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ (approx. 2 inches per minute)

Materials needed:

- Cotton string or 3 shoelaces
- Potassium Nitrate or Potassium Chlorate
- Granulated sugar

Procedure:

- Wash the cotton string or showlaces in HOT soapy water  then
rinse with fresh water

- Mix the following together in a glass bowl:
  1 part potassium nitrate or potassium chlorate
  1 part granulated sugar
  2 parts hot water

- Soak strings or shoelaces in this solution

- Twist/braid 3 strands together and allow them to dry

- Check the burn rate to see how long it actually takes!!

FAST BURNING FUSE
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ (40 inches per minute)

Materials needed:

-Soft cotton string
-fine black powder (empty a few shotgun shells!)
-shallow dish or pan

Procedure:

- moisten powder to form a paste

- twist/braid 3 strands of cotton together

- rub paste into string and allow to dry

- Check the burn rate!!!
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How to make Potassium Nitrate                   by The BHU

Potassium Nitrate is an ingredient in making fuses  among other
things. Here is how you make it:

Materials needed:

-3.5 gallons of nitrate bearing earth or other material
-1/2 cup of wood ashes
-Bucket or other similar container about 4-5 gallons in volume
-2 pieces of finely woven cloth  each a bit bigger than the
 bottom of the bucket
-Shallow dish or pan at least as large in diameter as the bucket
-Shallow  heat resistant container
-2 gallons of water
-Something to punch holes in the bottom of the bucket
-1 gallon of any type of alcohol
-A heat source
-Paper & tape

Procedure:

- Punch holes on the inside bottom of the bucket  so that the
metal is"puckered" outward from the bottom

- Spread cloth over the holes from the bottom

- Place wood ashes on the cloth. Spread it out so that it covers
the entire cloth and has about the same thickness.

- Place 2nd cloth on top of the wood ashes

- Place the dirt or other material in the bucket

- Place the bucket over the shallow container. NOTE: It may need
support on the bottom so that the holes on the bottom are not
blocked.

- Boil water and pour it over the earth very slowly. Do NOT pour
it all at once  as this will clog the filter on the bottom.

- Allow water to run through holes into the shallow dish on the
bottom.

- Be sure that the water goes through ALL of the earth!

- Allow water in dish to cool for an hour or so

- Carefully drain the liquid in the dish away  and discard the
sludge in the bottom

- Boil this liquid over a fire for at least two hours. Small
grains of salt will form - scoop these out with the paper as they
form

- When the liquid has boiled down to 1/2 its original volume let
it sit

- After 1/2 hour  add equal volume of the alcohol; when this
mixture is poured through paper  small white crystals appear. This
is the posassium nitrate.

Purification:

- Redissolve crystals in small amount of boiling water

- Remove any crystals that appear

- Pour through improvised filter then heat concentrated solution
to dryness.

- Spread out crystals and allow to dry
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Exploding lightbulbs                            by The BHU

Materials needed:

-lightbulb (100w)
-socket (duh...)
-1/4 cup soap chips
-blackpowder! (open some shotgun shells!)
-1/4 cup kerosene orgasoline
-adhesive tape
-lighter or small blowtorch
-glue

Procedure for a simple exploding lightbulb:
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

- Drill a small hole in the top of the bulb near the threads!

- Carefully pour the blackpowder into the hole. Use enough so
that it touches the filament!

- Insert into socket as normal (make sure the light is off or
else YOU will be the victim!!)

- Get the hell out!!

Procedure for a Napam Bulb:
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

- Heat kerosene/gasoline in a double boiler

- Melt soap chips  stirring slowly.

- Put somewhere and allow to cool

- Heat the threads of the bulb VERY carefully to melt the glue.
Remove threads  slowly drawing out the filament. Do NOT break the
cheap electrical igniters and/or the filament or this won't work!!

- Pour the liquid into the bulb  and slowly lower the filament
back down into the bulb. Make sure the filament is dipped into the
fluid.

- Re-glue the threads back on. Insert it into a socket frequently
used by the victim and get the hell out!!

When the victim flips the switch  he will be in for a BIG surprise!

Have fun!                              -BHU-
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Under water igniters                            by The BHU

Materials needed:

-Pack of 10 silicon diodes (available at Radio Shack. you will
 know you got the right ones if they are very  very small glass
 objects!)
-Pack of matches
-1 candle

Procedure:

- Light the candle and allow a pool of molten wax to form in the
top.

- Take a single match and hold the glass part of a single diode
against the head. Bend the diode pins around the matchhead so that
one wraps in an upward direction and thensticks out to the side.
Do the same with the other wire  but in a downward direction. The
diodes should now be hugging the matchhead  but its wires MUST NOT
TOUCH EACH OTHER!

- Dip the matchhead in wax to give it a water-proof coat. These
work underwater

- repeat to make as many as you want

How to use them:

When these little dudes are hooked across a 6v battery  the diode
reaches what is called breakdown voltage. When most electrical
components reach this voltage  they usually produce great amounts
of heat and light  while quickly melting into a little blob. This
heat is enough to ignite a matchhead. These are recommended for
use underwater  where most other igniters refuse to work. ENJOY!
                                         -BHU-
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Home-brew blast cannon                          by The BHU

Materials needed:

-1 plastic drain pipe  3 feet long  at least 3 1/2 inches in
 diameter
-1 smaller plastic pipe  about 6 inches long  2 inches in
 diameter
-1 large lighter  with fluid refills (this gobbles it up!)
-1 pipe cap to fit the large pipe  1 pipe cap to fit the small
 pipe
-5 feet of bellwire
-1 SPST rocker switch
-16v polaroid pot-a-pulse battery
-15v relay (get this at Radio Shack)
-Electrical Tape
-One free afternoon

Procedure:

- Cut the bell wire into three equal pieces  and strip the ends

- Cut a hole in the side of the large pipe  the same diameter as
the small pipe. Thread the hole and one end of the small pipe.
they should screw together easily.

- Take a piece of scrap metal  and bend it into an "L" shape
then attach it to the level on the lighter:

/------------------------gas switch is here
V
/------
!lighter!!<---metal lever
!!!
!!

Now  every time you pull the 'trigger' gas should flow freely from
the lighter. You may need to enlarge the 'gas port' on your
lighter  if you wish to be able to fire more rapidly.

- Connect two wires to the two posts on the switch

- Cut two holes in the side of the smaller tube  one for the
switch on the bottom  and one for the metal piece on the top.
Then  mount the switch in the bottom  running the wires up and out
of the top.

- Mount the lighter/trigger in the top. Now the switch should
rock easily  and the trigger should cause the lighter to pour out
gas. Re-screw the smaller tube into the larger one  hold down the
trigger a bit  let it go  and throw a match in there. If all goes
well  you should hear a nice big 'THUD!'
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
- Get a hold of the relay  and take off the top.

1---------------
v/
2--------------/<--- the center object is the metal finger inside
               3                                       the relay
cc-------------/
oo----------------4
ii
ll----------------5

Connect (1) to one of the wires coming from the switch. Connect
(2) to (4)  and connect (5) to one side of the battery. Connect
the remaining wire from the switch to the other side of the
battery. Now you should be able to get the relay to make a little
'buzzing' sound when you flip the switch and you should see some
tiny little sparks.

- Now  carefully mount the relay on the inside of the large pipe
towards the back. Screw on the smaller pipe  tape the battery to
the side of the cannon barrel (yes  but looks aren't everything!)

- You should now be able to let a little gas into the barrel and
set it off by flipping the switch.

- Put the cap on the back end of the large pipe VERY SECURELY.
You are now ready for the first trial-run!

To Test:

Put something very  very large into the barrel  just so that it
fits 'just right'. Now  find a strong guy (the recoil will
probably knock you on your ass if you aren't careful!). Put on a
shoulderpad  earmuffs  and possibly some other protective clothing
(trust the BHU! You are going to need it!). Hold the
trigger down for 30 seconds  hold on tight  and hit the switch.
With luck and the proper adjustments  you should be able to put a
frozed orange through 1/4 or plywood at 25 feet.

Have fun!                                  -BHU-
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Chemical Equivalency list                       by the BHU

Acacia..................................................Gum Arabic
Acetic Acid................................................Vinegar
Aluminum Oxide..............................................Alumia
Aluminum Potassium Sulphate...................................Alum
Aluminum Sulfate..............................................Alum
Ammonium Carbonate.......................................Hartshorn
Ammonium Hydroxide.........................................Ammonia
Ammonium Nitrate........................................Salt Peter
Ammonium Oleate.......................................Ammonia Soap
Amylacetate............................................Bananna Oil
Barium Sulfide...........................................Black Ash
Carbon Carbinate.............................................Chalk
Carbontetrachloride.................................Cleaning Fluid
Calcium Hypochloride..............................Bleaching Powder
Calcium Oxide.................................................Lime
Calcium Sulfate...................................Plaster of Paris
Carbonic Acid..............................................Seltzer
Cetyltrimethylammoniumbromide........................Ammonium Salt
Ethylinedichloride.....................................Dutch Fluid
Ferric Oxide.............................................Iron Rust
Furfuraldehyde............................................Bran Oil
Glucose.................................................Corn Syrup
Graphite...............................................Pencil Lead
Hydrochloric Acid....................................Muriatic Acid
Hydrogen Peroxide.........................................Peroxide
Lead Acetate.........................................Sugar of Lead
Lead Tero-oxide...........................................Red Lead
Magnesium Silicate............................................Talc
Magnesium Sulfate.......................................Epsom Salt
Methylsalicylate..................................Winter Green Oil
Naphthalene..............................................Mothballs
Phenol...............................................Carbolic Acid
Potassium Bicarbonate..............................Cream of Tarter
Potassium Chromium Sulfate..............................Chromealum
Potassium Nitrate.......................................Salt Peter
Sodium Oxide..................................................Sand
Sodium Bicarbonate.....................................Baking Soda
Sodium Borate................................................Borax
Sodium Carbonate......................................Washing Soda
Sodium Chloride...............................................Salt
Sodium Hydroxide...............................................Lye
Sodium Silicate..............................................Glass
Sodium Sulfate......................................Glauber's Salt
Sodium Thiosulfate.............................Photographer's Hypo
Sulfuric Acid.........................................Battery Acid
Sucrose.................................................Cane Sugar
Zinc Chloride.......................................Tinner's Fluid
Zinc Sulfate.........................................White Vitriol
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Phone Taps                                      by The BHU

Here is some info on phone taps. In this file is a schematic for a
simple wiretap & instructions for hooking up a small tape recorder
control relay to the phone line.

First  I will discuss taps a little. There are many different
types of taps. there are transmitters  wired taps  and induction
taps to name a few. Wired and wireless transmitters must be
physically connected to the line before they will do any good.
Once a wireless tap is connected to the line it can transmit all
conversations over a limited reception range. The phones in the
house can even be modifies to pick up conversations in the room
and transmit them too! These taps are usually powered off of the
phone line  but can have an external power source. You can get more
information on these taps by getting an issue of Popular
Communications and reading through the ads. Wired taps  on the
other hand  need no power source  but a wire must be run from the
line to the listener or to a transmitter. There are obvious
advantages of wireless taps over wired ones. There is one type of
wireless tap that looks like a normal telephone mike. All you have
to do is replace the original mike with thisand itwill transmit
all conversations! There is also an exotic type of wired tap known
as the 'Infinity Transmitter' or 'Harmonica Bug'. In order to hook
one of these  it must be installed inside the phone. When someone
calls the tapped phone & *before* it rings blows a whistle over
the line  the transmitter picks up the phone via a relay. The mike
on the phone is activated so that the caller can hear all of the
conversations in the room. There is a sweep tone test at
415/BUG-1111 which can be used to detect one of these taps. If one
of these is on your line & the test # sends the correct tone  you
will hear a click. Induction taps have one big advantage over taps
that must be physically wired to the phone. They do not have to be
touching the phone in order to pick up the conversation. They work
on the same principle as the little suction-cup tape recorder
mikes that you can get at Radio Shack. Induction mikes can be
hooked up to a transmitter or be wired.

Here is an example of industrial espionage using the phone:
A salesman walks into an office & makes a phone call. He fakes
the conversation  but when he hangs up he slips some foam rubber
cubes into the cradle. The called party can still hear all
conversations in the room. When someone picks up the phone  the
cubes fall away unnoticed.

A tap can also be used on a phone to overhear what your modem is
doing when you are wardialing  hacking  or just plain calling a
bbs (like the White Ruins! Denver  Colorado! 55 megs online!
Atari! Macintosh! Amiga! Ibm! CALL IT! 303-972-8566! By the way  i
did this ad without the sysops consent or knowledge!).

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Here is the schematic:
-------)!----)!(------------->
            )!(
 Cap      )!(
            )!(
            )!(
            )!(
    --)!(------------->
       100K
      !
      ! <Input

The 100K pot is used for volume. It should be on its highest
(least resistance) setting if you hook a speaker across the
output. but it should be set on its highest resistance for a tape
recorder or amplifier. You may find it necessary to add another
10 - 40K. The capacitor should be around .47 MFD. It's only
purpose is to prevent the relay in the phone from tripping &
thinking that you have the phone off of the hook. the audio output
transformer is available at Radio Shack. (part # 273-138E for
input). The red & the white wires go to the output device. You may
want to experiment with the transformer for the best output.
Hooking up a tape recorder relay is easy. Just hook one of the phone
wires (usually red) to the the end of one of the relay & the ther
end just loop around. This bypasses it. It should look like this:

-----------------
     ---------
     RELAY
(part #275-004 from Radio Shack works fine)

If you think that you line is tapped  the first thing to do is to
physically inspect the line yourself ESPECIALLY the phones. You
can get mike replacements with bug detectors built in. However  I
would not trust them too much. It is too easy to get a wrong
reading.

For more info:

BUGS AND ELECTRONIC SURVEILANCE from Desert Publications
HOW TO AVOID ELECTRONIC EAVESDROPPING & PRIVACY INVASION. I do not
remember who this one is from... you might want to try Paladin
Press.

                                         -BHU-
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
How to make a landmine                          by The BHU

First  you need to get a pushbutton switch. Take the wires of it
and connect one to a nine volt battery connector and the other to
a solar igniter (used for launching model rockets). A very thin
piece of stereo wire will usually do the trick if you are
desperate  but I recommend the igniter. Connect the other wire of
the nine-volt battery to one end of the switch. Connect a wire
from the switch to the other lead on the solar igniter.

      switch-----------battery
        \                  /
         \                /
          \              /
           \            /
           solar  igniter
                 |
                 |
                 |
             explosive

Now connect the explosive (pipe bomb  m-80  CO2 bomb  etc.) to the
igniter by attaching the fuse to the igniter (seal it with scotch
tape). Now dig a hole; not too deep but enough to cover all of the
materials. Think about what direction your enemy will be coming from
and plant the switch  but leave the button visible (not TOO
visible!). Plant the explosive about 3-5 feet away from the switch
because there will be a delay in the explosion that depends on how
short your wick is  and  if a homemade wick is being used  its
burning speed. But if you get it right... and your enemy is close
enough......... BBBBBBBOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOMMMM! hahahaha

                                         -BHU-
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
A different kind of Molitoff Cocktail               by the BHU

Here is how you do it:

- Get a coke bottle & fill it with gasoline about half full

- Cram a piece of cloth into the neck of it nice and tight

- Get a chlorine tablet and stuff it in there. You are going to have
to force it because the tablets are bigger than the opening of the
bottle.

- Now find a suitable victim and wing it in their direction. When it
hits the pavement or any surface hard enough to break it  and the chlorine
and gasoline mix..... BOOM!!!!!!
Have fun!                                    -BHU-
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Phone Systems Tutorial                          by The BHU

To start off  we will discuss the dialing procedures for domestic
as well as international dialing. We will also take a look at the
telephone numbering plan.

North American Numbering Plan
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

In North America  the telephone numbering plan is as follows:

A) a 3 digit Numbering Plan Area (NPA) code   ie  area code
B) a 7 digit telephone # consisting of a 3 digit Central Office
(CO) code plus a 4 digit station #

These 10 digits are called the network address or destination
code. It is in the format of:

     Area Code         Telephone #
     ---------         -----------

        N*X             NXX-XXXX

Where: N = a digit from 2 to 9
      * = the digit 0 or 1
      X = a digit from 0 to 9

Area Codes
~~~~~~~~~~

Check your telephone book or the seperate listing of area codes
found on many bbs's. Here are the special area codes (SAC's):

  510 - TWX (USA)
  610 - TWX (Canada)
  700 - New Service
  710 - TWX (USA)
  800 - WATS
  810 - TWX (USA)
  900 - DIAL-IT Services
  910 - TWX (USA)

The other area codes never cross state lines  therefore each state
must have at least one exclusive NPA code. When a community is
split by a state line  the CO #'s are often interchangeable (ie
you can dial the same number from two different area codes).

TWX (Telex II) consists of 5 teletype-writer area codes. They are
owned by Western Union. These SAC's may only be reached via other
TWX machines. These run at 110 baud (last I checked! They are most
likely faster now!). Besides the TWX #'s  these machines are
routed to normal telephone #'s. TWX machines always respond with
an answerback. For example  WU's FYI TWX # is (910) 279-5956. The
answerback for this service is "WU FYI MAWA".

If you don't want to but a TWX machine  you can still send TWX
messages using Easylink [800/325-4112]. However you are gonna have
to hack your way onto this one!

700:

700 is currently used by AT&T as a call forwarding service. It is
targeted towards salesmen on the run. To understand how this
works  I'll explain it with an example. Let's say Joe Q. Salespig
works for AT&T security and he is on the run chasing a phreak
around the country who royally screwed up an important COSMOS
system. Let's say that Joe's 700 # is (700) 382-5968. Everytime
Joe goes to a new hotel (or most likely SLEAZY MOTEL)  he dials a
special 700 #  enters a code  and the number where he is staying.
Now  if his boss received some important info  all he would do is
dial (700) 382-5968 and it would ring wherever Joe last progammed
it to. Neat  huh?

800:

This SAC is one of my favourites since it allows for toll free
calls. INWARD WATS (INWATS)  or Inward Wide Area
Telecommunications Service is the 800 #'s that we are all familiar
with. 800 #'s are set up in service areas or bands. There are 6 of
these. Band 6 is the largest and you can call a band 6 # from
anywhere in the US except the state where the call is terminated
(that is why most companies have one 800 number for the countery
and then another one for their state.) Band 5 includes the 48
contiguous states. All the way down to band 1 which includes only
the states contiguous to that one. Therefore  less people can
reach a band 1 INWATS # than a band 6 #.

Intrastate INWATS #'s (ie  you can call it from only 1 state)
always have a 2 as the last digit in the exchange (ie  800-NX2-
XXXX). The NXX on 800 #'s represent the area where the business is
located. For example  a # beginning with 800-431 would terminate
at a NY CO.

800 #'s always end up in a hunt series in a CO. This means that it
tries the first # allocated to the company for their 800 lines; if
this is busy  it will try the next #  etc. You must have a minimum
of 2 lines for each 800 #. For example  Travelnet uses a hunt
series. If you dial (800) 521-8400  it will first try the #
associated with 8400; if it is busy it will go to the next
available port  etc. INWATS customers are billed by the number of
hours of calls made to their #.

OUTWATS (OUTWARD WATS): OUTWATS are for making outgoing calls
only. Largecompanies use OUTWATS since they receive bulk-rate
discounts. Since OUTWATS numbers cannot have incoming calls  they
are in the format of:

  (800) *XXX-XXXX

Where * is the digit 0 or 1 (or it may even be designated by a
letter) which cannot be dialed unless you box the call. The *XX
identifies the type of service and the areas that the company can
call.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Remember:

INWATS + OUTWATS = WATS EXTENDER

900:

This DIAL-IT SAC is a nationwide dial-it service. It is use for
taking television polls and other stuff. The first minute
currently costs an outrageous 50-85 cents and each additional
minute costs 35-85 cents. Hell takes in a lot of revenue this way!

Dial (900) 555-1212 to find out what is currently on this service.

CO CODES
~~~~~~~~

These identify the switching office where the call is to be
routed. The following CO codes are reserved nationwide:

  555 - directory assistance
  844 - time. These are now in!
  936 - weather the 976 exchange
  950 - future services
  958 - plant test
  959 - plant test
  970 - plant test (temporary)
  976 - DIAL-IT services

Also  the 3 digit ANI & ringback #'s are regarded as plant test
and are thus reserved. These numbers vary from area to area.

You cannot dial a 0 or 1 as the first digit of the exchange code
(unless using a blue box!). This is due to the fact that these
exchanges (000-199) contains all sorts of interesting shit such as
conference #'s  operators  test #'s  etc.

950:

Here are the services that are currently used by the 950 exchange:

  1000 - SPC
  1022 - MCI Execunet
  1033 - US Telephone
  1044 - Allnet
  1066 - Lexitel
  1088 - SBS Skyline

These SCC's (Specialized Common Carriers) are free from fortress
phones! Also  the 950 exchange will probably be phased out with
the introduction of Equal Access

Plant Tests:

These include ANI  Ringback  and other various tests.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
976:

Dial 976-1000 to see what is currently on the service. Also  many
bbs's have listings of these numbers.

N11 codes:
----------
Bell is trying to phase out some of these  but they still exist in
most areas.

 011 - international dialing prefix
 211 - coin refund operator
 411 - directory assistance
 611 - repair service
 811 - business office
 911 - EMERGENCY

International Dialing
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

With International Dialing  the world has been divided into 9
numbering zones. To make an international call  you must first
dial: International Prefix + Country code + National #

In North America  the international dialing prefix is 011 for
station-to-station calls. If you can dial International #'s
directly in your area then you have International Direct Distance
Dialing (IDDD).

The country code  which varies from 1 to 3 digits  always has the
world numbering zone as the first digit. For example  the country
code for the United Kingdom is 44  thus it is in world numbering
zone 4. Some boards may contain a complete listing of other
country codes  but here I give you a few:

  1 - North America (US  Canada  etc.)
 20 - Egypt
258 - Mozambique
 34 - Spain
 49 - Germany
 52 - Mexico (southern portion)
  7 - USSR
 81 - Japan
 98 - Iran (call & hassle those bastards!)

If you call from an area other than North America  the format is
generally the same. For example  let's say that you wanted to call
the White House from Switzerland to tell the prez that his
numbered bank account is overdrawn (it happens  you know! ha ha).
First you would dial 00 (the SWISS international dialing refix)
then 1 (the US country code)  followed by 202-456-1414 (the
national # for the White House. Just ask for Georgy and give him
the bad news!)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Also  country code 87 is reserved for Maritime mobile service  ie
calling ships:

  871 - Marisat (Atlantic)
  871 - Marisat (Pacific)
  872 - Marisat (Indian)

International Switching:
------------------------

In North America there are currently 7 no. 4 ESS's that perform
the duty of ISC (Inter-nation Switching Centers). All
international calls dialed from numbering zone 1 will be routed
through one of these "gateway cities". They are:

 182 - White Plains  NY
 183 - New York  NY
 184 - Pittsburgh  PA
 185 - Orlando  Fl
 186 - Oakland  CA
 187 - Denver  CO
 188 - New York  NY

The 18X series are operator routing codes for overseas access (to
be furthur discussed with blue boxes). All international calls use
a signaling service called CCITT.It is an international standard
for signaling.

Ok.. there you go for now! If you wanna read more about this  read
part two which is the next file #36 in the BHU's cookbook!

                                      -BHU-
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Phone Systems Tutorial part II                  by The BHU

Part II will deal with the various types of operators  office
heirarchy  & switching equipment.

Operators
~~~~~~~~~

There are many types of operators in the network and the more
common ones will be discussed.

TSPS Operator:

The TSPS [(Traffic Service Position System) ass opposed to This
Shitty Phone Service] Operator is probably the bitch (or bastard
for the female libertationists out there) that most of us are used
to having to deal with. Here are his/her responsibilities:

1) Obtaning billing information for calling card or third number
calls

2) Identifying called customer on person-to-person calls.

3) Obtaining acceptance of charges on collect calls.

4) Identifying calling numbers. This only happens when the calling
# is not automatically recorded by CAMA (Centralized Automatic
Message Accounting) & forwarded from the local office. This could
be caused by equipment failures (ANIF- Automatic Number
Identification Failure) or if the office is not equipped for CAMA
(ONI- Operator Number Identification).

<I once has an equipment failure happen to me & the TSPS operator
came on and said  "What # are you calling FROM?" Out of curiosity
I gave her the number to my CO  she thanked me & then I was
connected to a conversation that appeared to be between a frameman
s wife. Then it started ringing the party I wanted to
originally call & everyone phreaked out (excuse the pun). I
immediately dropped this dual line conference!

You should not mess with the TSPS operator since she KNOWS which
number that you are calling from. Your number will show up on a
10-digit LED read-out (ANI board). She also knows whether or not
you are at a fortress phone & she can trace calls quite readily!
Out of all of the operators  she is one of the MOST DANGEROUS.

INWARD operator:

This operator assists your local TSPS ("0") operatorin connecting
calls. She will never question a call as long as the call is
withing HER SERVICE AREA. She can only be reached via other
operators or by a blue box. From a blue box  you would dial
KP+NPA+121+ST for the INWARD operator that will help you connect
any calls within that NPA only. (Blue Boxing will be discussed in
a future file).

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DIRECTORY ASSISTANCE Operator:

This is the operator that you are connected to when you dial: 411
or NPA-555-1212. She does not readily know where you are calling
from. She does not have access to unlisted numbers  but she DOES
know if an unlisted # exists for a certain listing.

There is also a directory assistance operator for deaf people who
use teletypewriters. If your modem can transfer BAUDOT [(45.5
baud). One modem that I know of that will do this is the Apple Cat
acoustic or the Atari 830 acoustic modem. Yea I know they are hard
to find... but if you wanna do this.. look around!) then you can
call him/her up and have an interesting conversation. The # is:
800-855-1155. They use the standard Telex abbreviations such as GA
for go ahead. they tend to be nicer and will talk longer than your
regular operators. Also  they are more vulnerable into being
talked out of information through the process of "social
engineering" as Chesire Catalyst would put it.

<Unfortunately  they do not have access to much. I once
bullshitted with one of these operators a while back and I found
out that there are 2 such DA offices that handle TTY. One is in
Philadelphia and the other is in California. They have approx. 7
operators each. most of the TTY operators think that their job is
boring (based on an official "BIOC poll"). They also feel that
they are under-paid. They actually call up a regular DA # to
process your request (sorry  no fancy computers!)

Other operators have access to their own DA by dialing
KP+NPA+131+ST (MF).

CN/A operators:

CN/A Operators are operators that do exactly the opposite of what
directory assistance operators are for. In my experience  these
operators know more than the DA op's do & they are more
susceptable to "social engeneering." It is possible to bullshit a
CN/A operator for the NON-PUB DA # (ie  you give them the name &
they give you the unlisted number. See the article on unlisted
numbers in this cookbook for more info about them.). This is due
to the fact that they assume that you are a fellow company
employee. Unfortunately  the AT&T breakup has resulted in the
break-up of a few NON-PUB DA #'s and policy changes in CN/A

INTERCEPT Operator:

The intercept operator is the one that you are connected to when
there are notenough recordings available to tell you that the #
has been disconnected or changed. She usually says  "What # you
callin'?" with a foreign accent. This is the lowest operator
lifeform. Even though they don't know where you are calling from
it is a waste or your time to try to verbally abuse them since
they usually understand very little English anyway.

Incidentally  a few area DO have intelligent INTERCEPT Operators.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
OTHER Operators:

And then there are the: MObile  Ship-to-Shore  Conference  Marine
Verify  "Leave Word and Call Back " Rout & Rate
(KP+800+141+1212+ST)  & other special operators who have one
purpose or another in the network.

Problems with an Operator> Ask to speak to their supervisor... or
better yet the Group Chief (who is the highest ranking official in
any office) who is the equivalent of the Madame ina whorehouse.

By the way  some CO's that willallow you to dial a 0 or 1 as the
4th digit  will also allow you to call special operators & other
fun Tel. Co. #'s without a blue box. This is ver rare  though! For
example 212-121-1111 will get you a NY Inward Operator.

Office Hierarchy
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Every switching office in North America (the NPA system)  is
assigned an office name and class. There are five classes of
offices numbered 1 through 5. Your CO is most likely a class 5 or
end office. All long-distance (Toll) calls are switched by a toll
office which can be a class 4  3  2  or 1 office. There is also a
class 4X office callen an intermediate point. The 4X office is a
digital one that can have an unattended exchange attached to it
(known as a Remote Switching Unit (RSU)).

The following chart will list the Office #  name  & how many of
those office exist (to the best of my knowledge) in North America:

Class                 Name           Abb          # Existing
-----        ----------------------- ---      -----------------
> 1          Regional Center          RC                   12
> 2          Sectional Center         SC                   67
> 3          Primary Center           PC                  230
> 4          Toll Center              TC                1 300
> 4P         Toll Point               TP                 n/a
> 4X         Intermediate Point       IP                 n/a
> 5          End Office               EO               19 000
> 6          RSU                     RSU                 n/a

When connecting a call from one party to another  the switching
equipment usually tries to find the shortest route between the
class 5 end office of the caller & the class 5 end officeof the
called party. If no inter-office trunks exist between the two
parties  it will then move upward to the next highest office for
servicing calls (Class 4). If the Class 4 office cannot handle the
call by sending it to another Class 4 or 5 office  it will then be
sent to the next highest office in the hierarchy (3). The
switching equipment first uses the high-usage interoffice trunk
groups  if they are busy then it goes to the fina; trunk groups on
the next highest level. If the call cannot be connected  you will
probably get a re-order [120 IPM (interruptions per minute) busy
signal] signal. At this time  the guys at Network Operations are
probably shitting in their pants and trying to avoid the dreaded
Network Dreadlock (as seen on TV!).

It is also interesting to note that 9 connections in tandem is
called ring-around-the-rosy and it has never occured in telephone
history. This would cause an endless loop connection [a neat way
to really screw up the network].

The 10 regional centers in the US & the 2 in Canada are all
interconnected. they form the foundation of the entire telephone
network. Since there are only 12 of them  they are listed below:

Class 1 Regional Office Location   NPA
--------------------------------   ---
Dallas 4 ESS                       214
Wayne  PA                          215
Denver 4T                          303
Regina No. 2SP1-4W (Canada)        306
St. Louis 4T                       314
Rockdale  GA                       404
Pittsburgh 4E                      412
Montreal No. 1 4AETS (Canada)      504

That's it for now! More info to come Future update to the
Cookbook! Have fun!                        -BHU-
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

                  *********************************
                  *              THE              *
                  *                               *
                  *        S C A N T R O N        *
                  *                               *
                  *                               *
                  *           TYPED BY            *
                  *                               *
                  *         THE  WARHEAD          *
                  *                               *
                  *           THANX TO            *
                  *                               *
                  *           IVANHOE             *
                  *                               *
                  *********************************

          We all know what the scan-tron is, don't we??????

The scan-tron are those b*tchy little cards with the little bubbles
and rectangles that our precious teachers expect us to fill in with
those #2 pencils. In the past you had some machine zap through the
cards only to tell you that you have failed biology. This meant that mom
and dad are gonna take your computer, telephone, and nights on the town
and stuff them in their closet, (along with their kinky sex toys).

Well, worry no more...
A group of brilliant people from the Armed Forces Pirating Guild have come
up with a simple, but workable method to evade those little red slashes that
seem to say "nice try, faggot".

***EXPLANATION***

Scan-tron machines detect right or wrong answers by picking up on led
#2 pencil marks.

If nothing has been marked at all in the given space, then your answer
will be marked wrong.  However, if there is neither a dark pencil mark
nor a blank, the machine will get a little confused and simply not mark
anything. You might say to yourself, "Well, what about the score printed
at the end of the test??", to which point we respond...

Scan-tron machines assignes a variable to the number of possible points
and the number of problems wrong.  Then it subtracts one from the other
and prints the answer at the bottom.  The little red marks beside your
answers represent the number wrong, however, if there is no red mark, then
there is simply "nothing wrong" as far as the machine is concerned.
And we all know that our beloved teachers pay no attention and leave
all the adding to those wonderful little machines.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
***HOW TO AVOID THE RED MARKS***

There are two types of fill sheets one can receive, ones with the
circles to fill in, and ones with the rectangles to fill in.

On the ones with the circles, there is one way to avoid a slash...
IF A CIRCLE IS LIGHTLY SHADED IN, TOO LIGHT FOR THE MACHINE AND
TOO DARK FOR THE TEACHER TO QUESTION, THE MACHINE WILL GET CONFUSED AND
SIMPLY LEAVE YOUR ANSWER BE.
Once again, if there is no mark, the machine does not subtract from the
total possible, and the teacher does not notice. Don't get it wrong
though, the computer will mark a circle that has not been filled in
at all 'wrong'. The only trick is to lightly fill it in with the cor-
rect tint.

Now for the rectangles...

The same method described for the circles will also work for the
rectangle form, along with another method...
This method is, drawing many diagonal light lines through the rectangle.
However, this method is not recommended because 'teacher' will probably
catch on (some teachers are really stupid though).

One more note:

Finals are coming.  Start practicing!!!

By the way, this method WORKS.  It's kept me playing sports and
I gotten to keep my telephone, computer, and social time (ie.
fucking my girlfriend).

Ivanhoe and I hope this is beneficial to both you and Harry.

                          ***THE WARHEAD***
                                  &
                            I v a n h o e--------------------------------------
------------------------------------------
Find Info On People Thru Social Security Numbers

 Often many of you may be in a position of needing to do an information search
on an individual.  It is somtimes  a big help to know  where someone  originaly
came from, in the following  list the first three numbers  in a social security
number will tell you  where the card was originaly applied for. also, a helpful
hint on locating missing persons or any person for that matter.
 a letter to the social security administration with as much personal
information (date of birth,lastplace of residence), can be the answer.

WRITE TO:
SOCIAL SECURITY ADMINISTRATION
PUBLIC INQUIRIES
DEPT. HEALTH & HUMAN SERVICES
6501 SECURITY BVLD. BALT. MD.  20235

CARD NUMBERS--STATE ISSUED TO
001-003 NEW HAMPSHIRE
004-007 MAINE
008-009 VERMONT
010-034 MASS
035-039 RHODE ISLAND
040-049 CONN
050-134 NEW YORK
135-158 NEW JERSEY
159-211 PENN
212-220 MARYLAND
221-222 DELEWARE
223-231 VIRGINIA
232-236 W. VIRGINIA
237-246 N. CAROLINA
247-251 S. CAROLINA
252-260 GEORGIA
261-267 FLORIDA
268-302 OHIO
03-317 INDIANA
318-361 ILLINOIS
362-386 MICH
387-399 WIS
400-407 KENTUCKY
408-415 TENN
416-424 ALABAMA
425-428 MISSISSIPPI
429-432 ARKANSAS
433-439 LOUISIANA
440-448 OKLAHOMA
449-467 TEXAS
468-477 MINN
478-485 IOWA
486-500 MISSOURI
501-502 N DAKOTA
503-504 S DAKOTA
505-508 NEBRASKA
509-515 KANSAS
516-517 MONTANA
518-519 IDAHO
520     WYOMING
521-524 COLO
525     NEW MEXICO
526-527 ARIZ
528-529 UTAH
530     NEVADA
531-539 WASH
540-544 OREGON
545-573 CALIF
574     ALASKA
575-576 HAWII
577-579 WASH D.C.
------------------
(REMEMBER: The first three numbers in a social security number will tell you
where the card was originally issued).
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                          How To Have Fun At School
                              Written By: Walkon

This works best if you happen to have alot of deralict friends, as I do...
Your first day of school you should bring the following items, to insure a
prosperous school Year:

:  Fountain pen (and extra ink refills)
:  Three (3) Tubes of Super Glue (Krazy Glue)
:  Pennies ($2.00 worth)
:  Balloons (small sized for convieniance)
:  Mirror (small hand held)
:  Liquid Soap
:  Lighter
:  Firecrackers (ladyfingers are fine)
:  screwdrivers and other small tools
:  Small sqeezable bottles (like nasal decongestant type)
:  Wire (10-20 ft.)
:  Tape recorder/Microphone/battery operated
:  Ziplock baggies
:  Half of an orange
:  Light bulb (75 watts and UP)

This will dor for now... Some of the cool things to do are, take the pennies
and glue them to the cafeteria tables.  Also glue silver dollars to the fire
alarms.

Another thing todo w/ a coin is heat it up over a bunson burner and just as
the bell rings, toss the coin into the hall, I will guarantee you will know
when the coin is picked up... While your using the bunson burner, fill your
little squeeze bottle w/ gas, then cap it tight and put it in your
pocket...later, take a firecracker, and glue it to the bottle, use a cigarette
as a fuse extension (to buy your self and alaby) and then put it in the
bathroom, and while your in the bathroom, place a light bulb over the door,
and when the superintendant goes to see what the explosion was, he gets a nice
little surprise...

Now for the wire, if you can access a room near your locker, when no body is
in the room, take off the speaker cover and the pa system, and hook 2 wires
from it, to your mic.  (then to your locker)  This is good for getting your
friends out of class.  Use the small tools and be very neat...Also if this is
possible run the wir through the cieling, so that noone becomes suspicious
about seeing a few wires dangling in YOUR locker.  Late organizations
(Athletics/band) have access to the building and you can possibly since some
classes are connected if one door is locked, try another...

Use your mirror and scope out peoples combinations, its going tobe tricky
beings that the reflection is in reverse, but if you have half a brain you can
rearange so that it will become correct.  Take the orange, let it sit for
about 4 1/2 weeks and then use your newly acquired combination.  People w/
floating lockers can make very good use of this.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Take a penny, and glue it over the key hole of a persons locker, just after
he/she goes out....depending on the locker, this could be say, a gym locker,
and do it when he changes clothes he will smell realy nice...

Balloons are fun to play w/ in chemistry class, fill them up w/ the gas that
you get out of the taps on the lab desks, then tie up the balloon, and drop it
out the window to the burnouts below, you the ones that are always smoking??
or throw it someplace nice and realy hot!!

Use your liquid soap after a nice rain storm and start squirting it everywhere
people learn how to skate realy quick!!  Also place the liquid soap in the
toilets in desks, chairs, handrails, stairs...etc...