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Subject: AQUARIA FAQ: Beginning Saltwater
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Date: 13 Mar 1996 08:03:50 GMT
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FAQ: BEGINNING SALTWATER AQUARIA
contributed by Thomas Sasala
Contents
* Introduction
* Before you buy your fish...
+ The Basic Parameters
+ The Basic Components
+ Setting Up The System
* Buying your fish...
+ Beginner Saltwater Fish
+ Saltwater Invertebrates
+ Selecting a Saltwater Fish
+ Bringing the Fish Home
* Long Term Success - Hint and Tips
+ Maintenance
+ Worth Noting
+ An Example Saltwater Tank
Introduction
So, you are wondering if a saltwater aquarium is for you. Most people
believe that marine aquarium keeping is infinitely more difficult than
freshwater. Not so. The simple truth is that saltwater fish and
invertebrates are not necessarily more difficult to keep, they just
have different requirements than freshwater fish and are a bit less
forgiving when it comes to mistakes. If you have not read the
beginners section, please do it now. The key to fully understanding
this section is to understand the basics presented there.
FAQ: BEGINNING SALTWATER -- BEFORE BUYING YOUR FISH
The Basic Parameters
So what's different about saltwater versus freshwater? As alluded to
above, saltwater fish are more sensitive to changes in their
environment. The critical parameters of a saltwater tank are pH,
nitrate, salinity, and temperature. During the cycling process,
ammonia and nitrite can also be a problem. These elements are not
different from those of a freshwater tank, but the degree to which
they may stray is vastly different.
The pH of a marine tank is one of the most important parameters.
Marine fish and invertebrates are especially sensitive to rapid
changes in their pH, so keeping pH fluctuations within 0.2 each day is
very critical. All marine creatures like a pH near 8.2, ranging from
8.0 to 8.4. The pH should never drop below 8.0.
The next critical parameter is nitrates. Saltwater fish are more
tolerant of higher nitrates than invertebrates (in general), but still
like nitrates lower than 20ppm, with less than 5ppm being required for
most invertebrates. Reef keepers tend to quote anything higher than
0.5ppm as unacceptable, but this is an unrealistic goal for fish-only
or minimal invertebrate tanks.
The next parameter of concern is the salinity, or the amount of salt
the water contains. The salinity of a saltwater tank does not tend to
change much on its own and usually tends to increase with time. Most
creatures will acclimate to almost any salinity (within reason), so
long as it does not vary widely. The salinity of a saltwater tank
should be around 1.022. It's worth noting that the salinity of natural
sea water varies according to location (ocean, to lagoons, to
estuaries), ranging anywhere from 1.020 to 1.030. So different fish
might be native to different salinities, and may need some time to
acclimate to a different salinity.
Finally, the temperature of a saltwater tank is basically the same as
a freshwater tank. Anywhere between 75F to 80F (24C - 27C), with 77F
(25C) being a good midpoint. Wild temperature variations increase fish
stress and invariably lead to disease, so a good heater (or chiller)
is a must. As an aside, submersible heaters tend to be preferred over
hang on the back kinds. Also, they seem to be somewhat more reliable
than the less expensive `clip-on' kind.
Other parameters worth keeping an eye on are alkalinity and calcium.
The alkalinity of a saltwater tank is really critical for long term
success. Without a decent alkalinity reading, the pH of the tank will
drop over time and endanger the lives of your pets. The alkalinity of
a saltwater tank should be around 2.5 to 3.5 meq/l.
Calcium is more of a reef keeper's issue than a fish-only tank, but
once you advance and wish to keep invertebrates, then monitoring
calcium levels become a must. Without calcium, and other trace
elements, invertebrates can not properly form their exoskeletons and
will not survive. Calcium levels should be 400 to 450 ppm Ca++. For
more information about adding calcium, see the REEFKEEPERS' FAQ.
Some of the more easier to keep invertebrates, such as shrimps, also
need regular supplements of iodine and other trace elements. Most
foods will supply the necessary amounts of these elements. However, if
you are using a protein skimmer, these elements will be stripped from
the water and need to be replaced manually. Once a gain the
reefkeeper's FAQ has more information about trace element additions.
The Basic Components
Now that we are comfortable with the basic parameters of a saltwater
aquarium, let's look into what is needed to run a successful tank.
The components needed to run a successful saltwater tank depends _a
lot_ on who you talk to. You should never operate solely under the
advice of one person. For example, many people advocate using under
gravel filters for biological filtration. This however, must be
tempered with wisdom. A saltwater tank running an under gravel filter
(UGF) with minimal circulation will be much more work than a than a
system running a wet/dry filter and a couple of powerheads. Wet/Dry
filters tend to require less maintenance, as UGF's tend to become
clogged over time.
Not to get too buried in details, the basic components of a saltwater
tank are the tank, decorations, filtration (including protein
skimming), lighting, water, and test kits.
One of the most important decisions in starting a saltwater aquarium
will be the size of the tank. The basic rule of thumb is the bigger
the better. A larger tank will be easier to control and gives a bit
more leeway for mistakes (which are inevitable). The smallest tank for
beginners should be no less than 20 gallons, with 55 gallons being
even better. For someone versed in fish keeping (i.e., converting from
fresh to saltwater), a 10 or 15 gallon tank would work, but it is not
suggested. In general, fish like long, wide tanks. The more surface
area a tank has, the better the gas exchange will be and the happier
the fish will be.
Remember that fish densities are much lower for saltwater than
freshwater. Putting more than 2 saltwater fish in 10 gallon tank is
asking for trouble. A general rule of thumb is 4" of small-to-medium
fish per 10 gallons, or 2" of larger/fast growing fish per 10 gallon.
This is just a _rough_ estimate of the number of fish. There is no
exact number since finding the stocking density has to take into
account the filtration, maintenance, feeding schedule, etc..
After considering how many fish you want, you also have to consider
the type of filtration and lighting. The dimensions of the tank will
impact the design and cost of both. 24" and 48" lamps are generally
cheaper than 36" lamps. Of 24" and 48" lamps, 4 8" are usually more
readily available. Scrutinize hoods carefully. Many of them are
designed for 48" tanks, but require two 24" lamps rather than one 48"
lamp.
Once you have decided on a tank, make sure you have a place to put it.
The tank should not be in direct sunlight or in an area which is very
drafty. Also, make very certain the stand will be capable of holding
the weight of the tank, plus substrate, plus rocks, plus water. In
total, a 55 gallon tank will probably weigh over 800 pounds.
After selecting the tank, consideration must be given to the substrate
and decorations. Many people say that calcareous substrates help
buffer the tank and increase the alkalinity, but this has come under
scrutiny recently. In any case, substrate is truly a personal choice
which ranges from crushed coral to dolomite to nothing at all.
Generally the substrate should not be so tiny as to get sucked into
the filter or pumps, and not so large as to make the tank unsightly.
Also, some fish (e.g., Gobies) like smaller grades of substrate over
larger ones. Something in the 2-5mm department seems average.
Live sand is one substrate which has recently gained a some amount of
publicity. This however, is mainly for reef tanks and not suggested
for beginners.
The filtration system will also affect the amount of substrate needed
for the tank. A UGF or RUGF filter should have about 2-3" of medium
grade substrate covering the filter plate. Non-UGF filters (e.g.,
hang-on-the-back power filters), don't need any substrate. However,
most people use between a 1/2" to 1" for such tanks. It's interesting
to note that too much substrate in a non-UGF system might lead to dead
spots, which can kill your inhabitants (a plug for regular gravel
cleaning). More detailed information about filtration can be found in
the FILTER FAQ.
As far as tank decorations go, there are a cornucopia of choices. Dead
coral, lava rock, tufa rock, live rock, and many more. Coral pieces
are the most popular, but are also some of the most expensive. Lava
and tufa rock are cheap, but usually end up having hair algae growing
on them. Lava and tufa can also be stacked to make interesting reef
looking tanks. Live rock is one of those buzz words that people like
to throw around and one which gets a lot of hype. Live rock is simply
rock taken from a natural reef system which has been populated by many
different organisms. Once you have a lot of live rock in your tank,
you probably have graduated to reef status. One or two pieces of low
quality store bought live rock does not make your budding ecosystem a
reef. Just remember, live rock contains living organisms, so they can
be killed along with any other organism in your tank. It's a good idea
to wait until after the tank is set up before buying live rock. There
is no good place to store live rock other than in a circulating tank.
Trying to do otherwise will be disastrous and costly. Also, if you are
going to put live rock into an established tank, the rock must be
cured live rock (for a more detailed discussion of cured live rock,
see the REEFKEEPERS' FAQ.
Filtration is covered in detail in its own FAQ, with most of the
information being relatively generic and applicable to marine life.
However, there are certain caveats that should be noted. If you decide
to use a UGF, reverse flow setups are better. An RUGF will keep
nitrates lower by keeping the substrate cleaner. Also, an RUGF will
aid water movement and circulation.
In addition to good filtration, water movement is a must in saltwater
aquaria. Without circulation the system will be unstable and usually
tends to grow unhealthy amounts of algae and other undesirables. The
easiest way to achieve water movement is to have a powerhead in the
tank for circulation. One must be careful though, a medium sized
powerhead in a small tank will easily make a tornado- like environment
and cause problems for small or slow moving creatures.
One of the best possible filtration systems for a fish-only marine
tank is a wet/dry filter. Although commercial setups are fairly
expensive, a wet/dry filter can be made very inexpensively at home
with little effort. The Archive has a lot of information about
constructing your own W/D filter system (as well as other fish related
projects).
A part of filtration which most recently has gained wide spread
acceptance is protein skimming, or foam fractionation. Protein
skimmers are a must for a decently stocked saltwater tank. There are
too many models and manufacturers to cover all of them, but the two
basic designs are air-driven and venturi. Air-driven protein skimmers
use a wooden or glass airstone to produce bubbles in a column of
water. Venturi skimmers use a venturi valve to inject bubbles into the
water column. Both air-driven and venturi have co-current and
counter-current designs, with counter-current protein skimmers being
far superior to co-current models.
In deciding on a protein skimmer, there are some basic things to
consider. Air-driven skimmers use airstones which must be replaced on
a regular basis (usually every month or so). Air-driven skimmers
usually require more maintenance than venturi skimmers to maintain
proper skimming. Venturi skimmers on the other hand require very
powerful pumps to achieve effective protein skimming. Venturis are
usually more expensive than air-driven skimmers as well. Also, any
skimmer smaller than 24" should be avoided for heavily loaded tanks.
Whichever type of skimmer you buy, the final cost of the skimmer must
not overlook the need for an external water pump and potentially an
air pump. A $200 venturi protein skimmer usually doesn't include a
$150 high pressure pump; a fact that most people seem to miss the
first time around.
With the setup nearly complete, you need to consider your near- term
and far-term lighting requirements. If you plan on having a fish- only
tank forever, then you only need a single full spectrum bulb. However,
if you plan to advance in your hobby and keep more sensitive animals
such as anemones, you must carefully select your lighting (and
filtration as well). Anemones require very strong, _full_ spectrum
lighting, supplemented with actinic blue. The general rule of thumb is
3-4 watts per gallon , with the higher values for deeper tanks
(greater than 18-24 inches). The standard Perfecto hood won't cut the
mustard when it comes to keeping anemones alive (or other light-loving
invertebrates for that matter).
For a beginning aquarist, fluorescent lighting is probably the best.
Metal halide lighting is really for reef keeping and heavily planted
freshwater tanks. In any case, if you want or will need something more
than a single bulb, your choices are limited. The best thing to do is
to build your own hood with custom lighting, or buy one through mail
order. Fish store prices usually preclude beginners from getting
proper lighting.
If you select a custom fluorescent hood, then you will have to choose
between normal output (NO), high output (HO) and very high output
(VHO). Most people with fish-only tanks stay with NO lamps. Both HO
and VHO lamps require special ballasts, are more expensive than NO
lamps, and need to be replaced more often (more $$).
One critical item in a saltwater tank that doesn't really fit into any
of the above topics is that which sets it apart - the marine salt.
There are many different brands of salt on the market, all of them
being basically the same. The only difference among them is whether or
not they have nitrates and phosphates. Both of these are very bad for
aquaria, so salts which have them must be avoided. Good salts include
Instant Ocean (IO), IO Reef Crystals, and Coralife. As a note,
standard rock salt can not be used as a substitute for marine salt
mixes. Rock salt does not contain the important elements that marine
creatures need to survive.
When initially setting up your tank it is okay to fill the tank with
water and then add the salt mix. Once the tank has been set up though,
the salt should always be mixed with water prior to adding it to the
tank. Adding 10 gallons of freshwater and then an appropriate amount
of salt into an established tank is a big mistake (and an excellent
way to kill your inhabitants).
Premixing saltwater is done for two reasons, it gives time for the
salt to thoroughly dissolve and also allows the water parameters to
stabilize.
One note on making saltwater. The source water you use for mixing is
extremely important to the overall success and health of the system.
There is more to be said about this later, but for now, realize that
tap water probably won't be good enough for your tank.
To measure the specific gravity of your saltwater you will need a
hydrometer. There are two basic types, the floating kind which usually
measures temperature as well, and the plastic kind with a floating
arm. It's basically a toss up as to which one to get, but the plastic
kind has a larger scale and is easier to read.
The final component needed to run a successful saltwater aquarium is
test kits. In order of importance, they are pH, nitrate, phosphate,
alkalinity, nitrite, ammonia and Ca. A good pH test kit is critical,
and an electronic pH monitor is even better. Ammonia and nitrate are
only needed occasionally after cycling. A nitrate test kit is a good
overall test for water quality after the tank becomes established. The
other kits are not necessary, but may be needed to solve particular
problems or after you advance into more delicate creatures.
Setting Up
Start by mixing the saltwater and setting it aside to circulate. Next,
assuming the tank has no leaks, place it in its final position. Make
certain the tank is level and that the freshwater used to make the
saltwater has been dechlorinated..
Once the tank is in place and is level, install the filtration. If it
is an UGF, then place the filter plate(s) on the bottom of the tank.
If it is a wet/dry, then connect the prefilter and all the hoses.
Prior to adding the substrate, rinse it with plain water until the
water runs clear, and then add it to the tank. On top of the substrate
arrange the decorations. Now the saltwater may be added. The easiest
way to add water to a tank is to place a plate on the substrate and
pour the water onto the plate.
When all the water is in place, start up the filter system and check
for any leaks (of both water and air). Let the tank sit for a day or
so to clarify (with the filtration running). Now you can add fish.
How many fish you add for the cycling process depends on the size of
the tank and the cycling method you choose. You can cycle a tank
without any fish at all. In this case, you add ammonium chloride to
simulate fish waste and an initial source of nitrifying bacteria. It
is best to get a bacteria culture from an established saltwater tank.
This can be in the form of some substrate, old filter media, or some
macroalgae such as _Caulerpa spp._. Live rocks are also an _excellent_
source of nitrifying bacteria.
If you choose to cycle your tank using fish, which is infinitely more
interesting than a tank full of circulating water, the number of fish
needed depends on the size of the tank. In any case, two fish are
preferable to one. If one fish dies, you will still have one to finish
the cycling. Of course the second fish may pass on too. If all the
fish die, then you have to remove all the contaminants from the tank
and introduce more organisms (read this as start all over).
Cycling doesn't have to be limited to fish though. Crabs and mollusks
can also be used. However, since these organisms don't produce much
waste, it will take longer to cycle the tank.
FAQ: BEGINNING SALTWATER -- BUYING YOUR FISH
Beginner Saltwater Fish
Contributed by Mark Rosenstein and Tom Sasala
It is easy to make mistakes when setting up your first saltwater tank.
Both for the sake of the fish and your wallet, start with only a few
hardy inexpensive fish. Most marine fish are collected in the wild
rather than captive raised, so your mistakes impact the world's
oceans!
Damsels
The best beginner fish for a marine tank are damsels. These fish are
very hardy, being able to withstand worse water conditions than most
other marine fish, they are not picky eaters, and they are fairly
inexpensive. The down-side is that they are fairly aggressive. One or
two will co-exist in a tank. There will be a lot of fighting if you
put more in. Dealers get away with a lot in their tanks by keeping the
tanks so crowded that none of the fish can establish a territory. This
is not acceptable for long periods of time. It is best to use damsels
to break in a new tank. If you are then going to add other aggressive
fish, you can keep the damsels. If you want to keep shy or delicate
fish, you should take the damsels back to the pet store once you and
your tank are ready for more fish.
Some damsels, such as the blue damsel and yellow tailed damsels, are
not as aggressive as others, such as the three striped and domino
damsels. In any case, damsels are certainly the best fish to start
with.
Mollies
Some people like to break in a tank with mollies which have been
acclimated to salt water. This gives you the benefit of starting with
inexpensive fish and get used to maintaining salinity and pH on
not-so-sensitive fish. Although safer, you don't achieve much marine
experience this way. Mollies are captive raised and bred.
If you buy mollies for your saltwater tank, you can acclimate them by
dripping saltwater into the bag over a period of 6-8 hours, removing
some water when the bag gets too full. _Slowly_ increasing the
salinity gives the mollies time to get used to their new environment.
You can keep the mollies in the tank after it cycles, but any
aggressive fish with continually harass the passive mollies.
Clownfish
Clownfish are related to damsels, and are fairly hardy. However, they
are more difficult to acclimate to a new tank. Clowns, in general, are
very territorial, but are not otherwise aggressive except to other
clowns. They will do fine without an anemone, which is good since
anemones are much more difficult to keep. Anemones require very clean
water and high quality lighting. Also, each species of clown likes
particular species of anemones, and none of them will regularly
inhabit the inexpensive and easier to maintain Caribbean anemones.
Some clowns are captive raised.
Blennies/Gobies
These small fish are somewhat hardy and are unlikely to cause trouble
for the other fish in your tank. Some of them show a lot of
personality, though they will get lost in a large tank. Many of these
fish are excellent additions to a tank to help control algae. However,
some feed by sifting through the substrate and will be very hard to
keep fed in a fish-only tank (e.g., the mandarin fish).
Tangs (Surgeonfish)
Tangs are fairly hardy, though they are very susceptible to marine
ich. Being algae eaters, they are useful to introduce when your tank
starts growing algae. They must be fed leafy greens if there is no
suitable algae growing in the tank (green algae). Many different tangs
are commonly seen for reasonable prices.
Triggerfish/Lionfish
If you are setting up a tank for large aggressive fish, you can start
with triggers and/or lionfish, as they are hardy. However, mistakes
with them can be very costly, so you may want to practice on less
expensive and easier fish. Also, carnivorous fish such as triggers and
lions should be fed plenty of shell fish and other marine life.
Specifically, many people feed lions feeder goldfish. This is really a
bad practice because goldfish are freshwater fish and do not provide
the same nutrition that a saltwater fish would. Specifically, feeding
saltwater fish freshwater food can cause premature liver failure and
the early demise of your fish.
Angels and Butterflies
These are fish that must be ignored while in the pet store - all are
both delicate and difficult fish to keep. Many butterflies have
specialized diets which make them hard to maintain in captivity.
Batfish are also other fish that should be avoided.
Others
Other saltwater fish which can be attempted once you get good at
controlling the fish's environment are hawkfishes, grammas,
dottybacks, basslets, and wrasses. Some are more difficult to keep
than others, but not nearly as difficult as angles and butterflies.
Fishes to Stay Away From
All angelfish, all butterflyfish, Pipefish, Seahorses, Long-nosed
Filefish, Blue Ribbon Eels, Stonefish, and Moorish Idols. Mandarin
fish should also be avoided in non-reef tanks (they are hard to feed).
Beginner Invertebrates
Many people believe that invertebrates are only for mini or micro-reef
tanks. Not so. There are quite a few invertebrates that do well in
non-reef tanks. However, not a lot of invertebrates should be
attempted by inexperienced saltwater fish keepers. Below is a brief
summary of the more hardy invertebrates available to aquarists.
Shrimps
There are many different shrimps available on the market, with most of
them being perfectly suitable for a lightly loaded saltwater tank. In
fact, some shrimps are more suitable for fish and invertebrate tanks
than for a reef tank since they like to eat corals.
Some of the more popular shrimps are Cleaner shrimp _Lysmata
amboinensis_, Blood shrimp _Lysmata debelius_, Candycane or Peppermint
shrimp _Periclimenes brevcarpalis_, and Coral Banded shrimp _Stenopus
hispidus_. The cleaner shrimp is denoted by a white on red stripe down
the middle of its back. They are fairly inexpensive and easy to keep.
They should, however, be kept in small groups (3-4), as this makes
them more social and more likely to come out often. The Blood shrimp
is intensely red with some white spots. It is a very striking animal,
but usually commands a high price. The Coral Banded shrimp is very
popular with reef keepers, but must be watched around small fish. This
shrimp has been known to eat small fish without thinking twice.
Most shrimps are scavengers and don't necessarily need to be fed
overtly (they usually eat food dropped by fish). If your fish your
fish consume most of the food before it makes it to the bottom of the
tank, then some extra food should be given to the shrimps after the
fishes have been fed, or at night (most shrimps are nocturnal).
Shrimps readily accept most frozen foods and dried foods (brine
shrimp, flake food, etc.).
Stay away from Harlequin shrimps _Hymenocera sp._ as starfish are
their only source of food.
Crabs
There are many different type of crabs, but the most commonly seen
varieties are anemone crabs _Neopetrolisthes ohshimia_, arrow crabs
_Stenorhynchus seticornis_, and hermit crabs _Dardanus megistos_.
Anemone crabs live in anemones, as do clownfish (e.g., Sebae), and
vary greatly in color and shape. They are usually acquired indirectly
by buying an anemone, but are some times sold separately. These crabs
should have a host anemone to feel comfortable. Arrow crabs are very
interesting animals which should be kept one to a tank, as they will
continually fight. Also, Arrow crabs should not be kept with Coral
Banded Shrimps as they will fight as well. Hermit crabs are also
interesting, and vary in color and size. Most are passive, butsome
will eat corals and other invertebrates.
Crabs are generally omnivorous and readily accept the same foods as
your fish. Like shrimp, crabs can only eat food which has made it to
the bottom of the tank. Thus, ensure some food is in reach of your
crabs.
Sea Urchins and Starfishes
Most sea urchins and Starfishes are suitable for beginners who have a
few months experience. Once again they vary greatly in size, shape,
and color. Beware, some sea urchins are poisonous. Most sea urchins
and starfish feed on detritus and algae, and small particles of food
that have fallen within their reach.
Anemones
Simply put, amemones should not be kept by beginners (sorry folks).
They all require very strong lighting and excellent water conditions.
Do not believe a fish store guy that tells you otherwise. Unless you
are willing to invest a lot of money in proper lighting, do not try to
keep an anemone.
Some Notes on Invertebrates
Invertebrates are very sensitive to water quality. Signs of stress due
to poor water quality will usually be exhibited first by
invertebrates. Therefore, shrimps, anemones and other invertebrates
should never be used to cycle a tank. Moreover, you should never add
an invertebrate to a diseased tank or a tank which does not have
stable water quality parameters (e.g., pH, temperature, etc.).
Other points to note. Shrimps need iodine to properly molt, as well as
calcium . If you do not change water regularly (which you should), or
if you do not feed live or frozen food frequently, then you may need
to supplement your water with iodine. Without proper levels of iodine,
shrimps will not molt properly and will most likely die. Also, copper
kills invertebrates at much lower concentrations than fish. If you
have _ever_ used copper in your tank, DO NOT put invertebrates into
the tank. You will never be able to adequately remove all the copper
such that you can keep invertebrates alive and happy. Finally, crabs
usually outgrow their shell sooner or later. Therefore, you will need
to provide a new larger shell (they usually try a few out before
sticking with one, so you will probably need at least a couple).
Invertebrates to Stay Away From
Tridacna clams (they need strong lighting), Flame scallops (they are
nearly impossible to feed in an aquarium as they are filter feeders),
Octopi (they have very short life spans), Nudibranchs (they are
difficult/impossible to feed), any hard or soft coral (they need very
strong lighting), and sea squirts (they can release poisonous toxins
into the water).
Selecting a Saltwater Fish
Since saltwater fish are usually more expensive than freshwater fish,
you have a great stake in getting them home alive and keeping them
alive for the long term. You must realize that most fish you see in
stores were swimming around the vast ocean a mere week ago. As such,
the stress of capture and transportation can wreak havoc with the
biological processes of the animal.
The most important thing when buying a fish is to not be overcome by
the buying impulse. _Before_ buying any animal, you should ask `Can I
keep it happy'. Merely keeping the fish or invertebrate alive doesn't
mean it is happy. Fifty goldfish may live in a 10 gallon tank, but
they certainly won't be happy or healthy. Buying a fish you know
nothing about and then asking if you can keep this fish happy is a
very bad practice. Also, as hard as it is to say this, don't feel like
you are doing a sick fish any favors by taking it home. If you have
the room and time to nurture the sick fish, then I suggest you help
out the environment and care for the sick fish rather than letting it
die. However, if you are just going to place the fish into your main
tank because you don't have the time or inclination to set a up a
quarantine tank, then don't bother. It will only result in the death
of the fish and the lightening of your wallet.
Once you decide on a particular fish, don't be afraid to ask the store
to hold it for you. A good store will always hold a fish for you
(don't patronize stores that won't!). Also, ask to see the fish eat.
If the fish is healthy and eating, then it most likely is a good
specimen. Finally, check the fish closely for spots, irregular
patches, missing scales, and wounds. Torn fins will usually heal and
are not much of a problem.
Bringing the Fish Home
Once you get the fish home you should set the bag in the destination
tank, thus allowing the temperature to equalize. After about a half
hour or so, add a 1/4 cup of tank water to the bag. Repeat this
process once every 15 minutes for an hour, removing any water if the
bag gets too full. Any water you remove from the bag should be
disposed of. It will most likely contain parasites and other bad
things.
After you have the fish acclimated to your tank's water chemistry,
there are a couple of things you can do. You can place the fish
directly into the main tank and hope for the best, you can give the
fish a freshwater dip and then place it into the tank, or you could
place the fish into a quarantine tank.
The best scenario is to give the fish a freshwater dip and place it
into a quarantine tank. Keep the fish in the quarantine tank for 2
weeks and watch for signs of disease. If the fish gets sick, you can
medicate the quarantine tank without affecting the chemistry of the
main tank. If you are going to quarantine the fish, you should
acclimate the fish to the quarantine tank's chemistry, not the main
tank.
If you don't use a quarantine tank, then it is a very good idea to
give the fish a freshwater bath before placing it into your main tank.
The freshwater bath will cause any parasites attached onto the fish to
let go and remain in the freshwater (to die a lonely death).
Otherwise, parasites left to their own will reproduce very rapidly in
captivity and usually infect all the fish in the tank.
To give a marine fish a freshwater dip, prepare a container of
dechlorinated freshwater with a similar chemistry of the destination
tank. That is, make sure the pH and temperature are as close as
possible to the destination tank (this is critical!) . Remove the fish
from the bag and place the fish into the container for 3 to 5 minutes.
Watch the fish closely for signs of stress. If the fish stops moving
or begins to float, remove it immediately and place it in the
destination tank (either the main or quarantine tank).
In placing the fish into the freshwater bath, never pour the fish into
the container. Use a tupperware container or a net to capture the fish
and place it into the dip. The store water should _never_ be
introduced to the freshwater bath, or any of your tanks. This water
usually contains all sorts of nasty diseases and organisms.
If you put the fish into the main tank and it comes down with an
illness, it should be removed to a quarantine tank _immediately_. Do
not risk spreading the illness to the other fish in the tank (although
it may already be too late).
Some more information on setting up a quarantine tank can be found in
the Archive.
FAQ: BEGINNING SALTWATER -- LONG-TERM SUCCESS
Saltwater Maintenance
The cycling process will undoubtedly be the most tense time for you
and your new tank. So below is a guide to the first few days and
months of your tank.
Over the course of the first 4 to 6 weeks your tank will demonstrate
the typical cycling process (which is described in detail the BEGINNER
FAQ). During this critical time, you should carefully watch the
ammonia and nitrites in the tank. If the fish look stressed (darting
around the tank, gasping for air, or not moving at all), a partial
water change might be in order. If the fish look really bad, they may
have to be moved to another tank or storage location until the
toxicity of the tank is reduced. You should always keep salt mix and
dechlorinated water on hand for impromptu water changes.
Along with monitoring ammonia and nitrites, you should keep a careful
eye on the pH (you should always watch the pH, not just during the
cycling process). The pH will tend to fall over time and needs to
raised. The easiest way to raise the pH is through additions of sodium
bicarbonate (i.e., baking soda). Mix a tablespoon or so of baking soda
in a cup of dechlorinated water and slowly add it to the tank. Slowly
means over the course of an hour or two.
As time marches on, water will evaporate from the tank and need to be
replenished. The water that evaporates is freshwater and needs to be
replaced with freshwater. You should never use saltwater for makeup
water (unless you want to increase the salinity of the tank).
As the tank matures, algae will start to grow (usually around week 2
or 3). Typically brown algae, otherwise known as diatoms, will be the
first algae that shows up in the tank. Brown algae will usually cover
everything in the tank and need to be cleaned every week or so. With
time green algae should overtake the diatoms and the brown algae will
disappear all together. If it doesn't, there might not be enough light
for the green algae to out-compete the diatoms.
After the tank completes cycling, it will be time for your first major
water change. Although the amount of water you change is really up to
you, it should be a significant portion of the water. Something like
40 to 50%, with 100% of the water not being uncommon. When changing
the water, the gravel should also be cleaned. There are many
commercially available gravel cleaners on the market.
The chemistry of the change water should be as close to the tank's
water as possible. The pH should be within 0.2 and the temperature
should be within 1-2 degrees. It is better to have the change water
warmer than cooler (imagine the shock of a cold shower and you will
know how your fish will react to cooler change water).
After the first water change you should establish a regular
maintenance schedule. Something like monthly water changes, weekly
algae scrapings, and bi-weekly feedings are normal.
A note on nutrition. Saltwater fish need varied diets. Constantly
feeding your fish flake food may provide it with all the necessary
vitamins and minerals, but gets boring after awhile and ultimately may
cause a nutrition deficiency of sorts. Imagine eating spaghetti
everyday for the next 5 years. Alternating between cut up shrimp and
clam, flake food and frozen/live brine shrimp makes a good
combination. Herbivorous fish, like Yellow Tangs, also like romaine
lettuce on a regular basis.
General Notes
Keeping a quarantine tank is especially important for saltwater tanks.
It can be very difficult to treat a sick fish when it is continually
being harassed by healthier fish. Also, some medications, namely
copper, will kill invertebrates. You should _NEVER_ put copper into
your main tank. Contrary to popular belief, you will never be able to
get all of the copper out of the tank. Also, using copper in a tank
which contains live rock will decimate the life form s populating the
rock, as most of them are invertebrates.
Source water for saltwater tanks is also very important. Although the
water authority says that tap water is fit for human consumption, it
may not be fit for your fish. Tap water typically contains chlorine
and chloramine, which will kill your fish. Although these will have an
immediate effect on your fish, there are usually other contaminates in
tap water which need time to affect the tank. In particular,
phosphates will cause massive growths of hair algae and potentially
cyanobacteria outbreaks (red slime algae). Without good quality source
water, your tank will not be the continuous joy you hoped it would be.
The best water purifiers on the market are reverse osmosis units.
These, coupled with de-ionizing resins, produce water which is 98%
pure. If the price of a RO/DI combination is too much, then you can
always use distilled water (not spring water). However, distilled
water may have been stored in copper containers which will kill
invertebrates.
Before you start your saltwater tank, find a good store near you. Good
stores will have knowledgeable staff and exhibit a general concern
about the care of the animals. If the store has few saltwater tanks,
with a lot of sick or dying fish, don't buy any fish there, even if
they look healthy.
The last point about keeping saltwater fish is to read, read, read.
The FAQ is no substitution for reading a good book. Some of the best
are _The Marine Aquarium Handbook_ by Martin Moe, _The Book of the
Marine Aquarium_ distributed by Tetra Press, and _The Marine Aquarium
Reference_ also by Martin Moe. Also, don't be afraid to post to
*.aquaria. Just don't forget to include all the importance
specifications (e.g., ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, temperature, how
old the tank is, how big the tank is, and what the inhabitants are).
Happy fish keeping.
A Successful Saltwater Tank:
30 gallon tank $30
Custom Hood $20
Custom Stand $30
1 Phillips Ultralume $11
1 Coralife Actinic Blue $15
Wizard Electronic Ballast $28
DIY w/d filter $30
Amiracle Prefilter $50
Eheim 1250 $69
DIY 30" Air-driven skimmer $50
Hagen 801 powerhead $22
Tetra Luft G Airpump $20
Hagen 301 (circulation) $15
Ebo Jaeger 100W heater $16
20 lbs dolomite $8
Misc. Rocks $15
2 Domino Damsels $10
1 Black Molly $1.59*
Total $440.59
* The molly was used for cycling and is now isolated from the damsels
as it is continually being harassed by them.
End of Saltwater Beginner FAQ.
