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Subject: AQUARIA FAQ: Good (and Bad) First Fish
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Date: 13 Mar 1996 08:08:01 GMT
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FAQ: GOOD (AND BAD) BEGINNER FISH
contributed by Dean Hougen
This article considers fish choices for the beginning aquarist,
covering good choices for the complete novice (``Good First Fish''),
good choices for the near novice who wishes to expand his or her
options for new fish (``Good Second Fish''), and poor choices for
beginning aquarists (``Bad First Fish'').
Contents:
* Good First Fish:
cymprinids, Corydorus catfish and rainbowfish.
* Good Second Fish:
loaches, dwarf pl*cos, tetras, cichlids, anabantids and
livebearers.
* Bad First Fish:
goldfish, piranhas, knife fishes, hatchet and pencil fishes,
elephant noses and baby whales, Chinese algae eaters, bala
sharks, iridescent sharks, glass cats, pl*cos, long-whiskered
catfish, spiny eels, painted glassfish, brackish fish and
saltwater fish.
Introduction
Since even a small amount of material can be difficult for a newcomer
in any field to digest and retain, the novice aquarist may wish to
read only the ``Good First Fish'' section to begin with. Then, while
consulting a good beginner's book (the most essential item for any
novice aquarist to own), she or he should choose a small number of
possibilities for the fish with which to start her or his new tank.
If someone familiar with the local fish stores is available, it is
wise to get a recommendation for where to shop for fish. Otherwise the
beginner should try looking for shops that specialize in fish, either
exclusively or as a major part of their business. This is no
guarantee, of course, but it does improve the odds of finding a good
store.
If, upon reaching the store, none of the selected fish can be found,
the novice should refrain from purchasing any fish that he or she is
unfamiliar with, even if recommended by the store's employees. (Some
stores have very knowledgeable staffs but many, alas, do not. It will
take some time before the new fishkeeper can discern a good store from
a bad one, or good advice from poor.) At this point, another store
could be sought out or further reading done to determine alternate
choices for first fish.
Assuming that desirable choices for first fish can be found, the
beginner should carefully inspect the specimens for sunken bellies,
sunken eyes, clamped fins, labored breathing (often with gill covers
quite extended), and any sort of external blemishes that might
indicate parasites or disease. If the fish appear healthy, the novice
should ask to purchase a very small number of fish, depending on the
size of the tank and the fish. A twenty gallon tank is a good size for
a beginner; it is large enough that the water conditions will be
fairly stable, yet small enough that the beginner is not intimidated.
For this size tank a single fish of one to two inches in length, or
three or four smaller fish, is the most the novice should start with.
(If more fish are put into the tank initially, poisonous ammonia will
build up and kill the fish. If the tank population is built up
gradually, however, this will not be a problem. To understand this
gradual introduction of fish, known as `cycling the tank', the novice
should read about the nitrogen cycle in his or her aquarium book, or
the NITROGEN CYCLE section of the BEGINNER FAQ.)
Good First Fish
If we define a good beginner's fish as one that is easy to feed and
care for, hardy, able to live in a variety of water conditions, and
attractive, then there are a number of widely available fish which fit
the bill nicely. Many of these are regularly sold as beginner's fish.
But watch out! Many of the fish sold as beginner's fish really are not
well suited to that role.
Many of the smaller schooling fish make ideal first fish. These
include White Cloud Mountain Minnows, the several commonly available
species of Danios and Rasboras, and most available species of Barbs.
For those with a slightly larger tank, Rainbowfish make a great
schooling fish. Corydoras Catfish are ever popular schooling catfish.
While many beginners are tempted to get just one or two of each of
several different schooling fish, this should be resisted. Schooling
fish do better if there are several of their own species present for
them to interact with. A minimum of six of each of the midwater
schooling fish is recommended, while four is the bare minimum for
Corys. In the long run, a school of a dozen fish showing their natural
behavior will be more pleasing than a mixed group of fishes unhappily
forced to share the same tank. (``Mom, why is that one fish hiding
behind the heater and that other one just hanging in the corner?'')
Of course, as mentioned in the introduction, the population needs to
be built up slowly, two or three fish at a time. The aquarist might,
for instance, build up a school of eight Rasboras of a certain
species, then turn to building up a school of six of a species of Cory
Cats.
Some Cyprinids
White Clouds, Danios, Rasboras, and Barbs are all Asian fish related
to the Carp and the Minnow. All of these fish belong to the family
Cyprinidae. White Clouds, Danios, Rasboras, and Barbs are small,
active, hardy, and colorful.
``White Cloud Mountain Minnows'' - Tanichthys albonubes
Found in mountain streams in China, White Clouds can be kept in
unheated tanks (down to 55F). Some people advise against
putting these fish in tropical tanks but I have found that they
do fine in heated aquaria as well, as long as the temperature
is not kept above the mid 70s. They can be fed any small food
and they spawn often but fry will not be seen unless the
parents are removed to another tank. White Clouds are brown
with a red tail and a silvery white line down the side that
shines in the light. They get to be 1 1/2" long.
Danios
Several species of Danios are often found in pet stores,
including the Giant Danio - _Danio aequipinnatus_, the Zebra
Danio - _Brachydanio rerio_, the Leopard Danio - _Brachydanio
frankei_, and the Pearl Danio - _Brachydanio albolineatus_.
These fish are fast swimmers and are always in motion.
Different patterns of blue markings allows one to tell these
fish apart. Most Danios stay under 2 1/2" long, although Giant
Danios can get up to 4".
Rasboras
The most popular Rasbora is the Harlequin Rasbora - _Rasbora
heteromorpha_. A very similar looking species, _Rasbora espei_,
is also available, as is the Clown Rasbora - _Rasbora
kalochroma_ and the Scissor-Tail Rasbora - _Rasbora
trilineata_. Orange, brown, and red are usual colors for
Rasboras, and their stop-and-start swimming makes them
interesting to watch as a school. Scissor- Tails can get up to
6" long and Clown Rasboras up to 4" while Harlequins stay under
2" long.
Barbs
By far the most commonly seen and commonly cursed Barb is the
Tiger Barb - _Capoeta tetrazona_. It nips the fins of other
fish if not kept in a large school of its own species and
because it is over-bred it is susceptible to diseases. Several
aquarium morphs are also available (such as the greenish
``Mossy Barb'' and an albino variety) but these are even more
sickly and often deformed.
Don't give up on the Barbs too fast though, as many are well
suited as first fish, especially for those with moderate sized
tanks. _Capoeta titteya_, the Cherry Barb, is a terrific little
barb - up to 2" long and with a wonderful orange-red color.
Mid-sized barbs (up to about 4 1/2" long) include Clown Barbs -
_Barbodes everetti_, Rosy Barbs - _Puntius conchonius_, and
Black Ruby Barbs - _Puntius nigrofasciatus_. The artificial
morphs (long-finned, albino, etc.) of the Rosy Barb should be
avoided though, as these tend to be sickly. Checker Barbs -
_Capoeta oligolepis_ and Spanner or T-Barbs - _Barbodes
lateristriga_ are large, peaceful barbs (Spanner Barbs up to 7"
long). Unless you have a very large aquarium avoid Tinfoil
Barbs - _Barbodes schwanefeldi_. They grow to be over a foot
long!
Note that many barbs don't school as ``nicely'' as do Danios or
Rasboras, but most should be kept in schools nonetheless. Also
note that many authors may put all of the above mentioned
species in the genus _Barbus_.
Corydoras Catfish
Cory Cats are members of the family Callichthyidae, a family of
armored catfish from South America. Corys are small (generally 2 1/2"
long or less), schooling fish that are always searching the bottom of
the tank for food. There are at least 140 species of catfish in the
genus _Corydoras_. Some of these are quite delicate and die quickly
even in the hands of experts. The fragile ones, however, are rarely
seen in pet stores and are high priced when they can be found. The
Corys you will see for reasonable prices are hardy and can even
survive in a tank with low oxygen as they can swallow air from the
surface and absorb it through their intestines. Some Corys you may
encounter are the Bronze Cory - _C. aeneus_, the Spotted Cory - _C.
ambiacus_, the Leopard Cory - _C. julii_, the Skunk Cory - _C.
arcuatus_, the Bandit Cory - _C. metae_, and the Panda Cory - _C.
panda_.
Corys generally feed at the bottom of the tank and special sinking
foods should be fed. These include sinking pellets like Tabi-Min and
frozen blood- worms. Care should be taken to insure that all frozen
foods are eaten quickly as they decay rapidly and can foul the tank.
Don't overfeed!
Rainbowfish
Rainbows are extremely colorful fishes native to Australia, New
Guinea, and Madagascar. Like the Cyprinids described above, Rainbows
are schooling fish and should be kept in groups of six or more.
Larger, somewhat more expensive, and harder to find than many of the
schooling fishes already discussed, Rainbows are easily cared for,
active, and make good first fish for those who want to try something a
little less common. Look in your dealer's tanks for the Australian
Rainbow - _Melanotaenia splendida_, Boeseman's Rainbowfish - _M.
boesemani_, Turquoise Rainbows - _M. lacustris_, and the Celebes
Rainbow - _Telmatherina ladigesi_.
Good Second Fish
The previous section talked about good fish for the complete novice
aquarist. This section will discuss good fish for beginning aquarists
who have had some experience or who are willing to do more careful
research and shopping before buying their fish.
Many of the fish recommended here are every bit as hardy, adaptable,
and easy to care for as those in the first section. However, in the
first section I was able to recommend whole groups of fish or at least
say to watch out for only a species or two in each group as bad
choices. Here, however, the groups will be quite mixed with many good
choices and many poor ones. Also, some of the fish in this section are
hardy only if some special needs are cared for. If you wish to
successfully keep fish from these groups you need to be sure you know
which species you are getting and what their needs are.
Why bother? If you are a complete novice, perhaps you shouldn't. The
great choices from the ``First Fish'' list should allow you to get
your feet wet (as it were) with minimum risk. However, as you gain
experience you may decide to give some of these fish a try. Many are
quite beautiful and/or have interesting behaviors and some aquarists
become so taken with them that they join specialist clubs just to
learn about and trade one group or another of these fish.
Loaches
Loaches are long-bodied Asian fishes distantly related to the
Cyprinids (Barbs, Danios, etc.) described above. Like Cory Cats,
loaches have a down- turned mouth equipped with barbels - an
adaptation for living and feeding at the bottom of ponds and streams.
They will scavenge the tank bottom eating the food missed by other
fishes, but you should take care to see that they get enough to eat.
Special sinking foods are a must.
Some loaches are sensitive to poor nitrogen cycle management, which is
why they are included here, rather than in the Good First Fish
section. Once the tank is established and the beginner seems to have
gotten the hang of maintaining a tank, however, loaches make great
additions to most community fish populations.
The most commonly seen loaches are the Kuhli Loaches -
_Acanthophthalmus_ species. These are long, ribbon-like fishes which
grow to be 4" long. Brown with yellow stripes and bands, Kuhli Loaches
are shy and spend a lot of time buried in the gravel.
Another popular group of loaches are the members of the genus Botia.
Clown Loaches - _B. macracantha_, Yo-Yo Loaches - _B. lohachata_,
Skunk Loaches - _B. horae_, Blue Loaches - _B. modesta_, and Striated
Loaches - _B. striata_ are all seen in the hobby. Some of these
(notably Clown and Blue Loaches) can get big, but they grow extremely
slowly and can live in a small aquarium for several years. Loaches
will often be happier if kept with a few of their own species.
Weather Loaches - _Misgurnus fossilis_ and Spotted Weather Loaches -
_Cobitis taenia_ should be avoided. They are cold water species and
have the unfortunate habit of jumping out of aquaria, especially at
the approach of a storm.
Dwarf Plecos
``Pleco'' (a shortening of the now-unused genus name _Plecostomus_) is
the common term used for suckermouth catfish of the family
Loricariidae. As mentioned below in the Bad First Fish section, common
Plecos (_Hypostomus_ species) are often sold to beginners as algae
cleaners. Unfortunately, these fish get too large for the relatively
small tanks of most beginners.
Some species of suckermouth catfish, however, do stay small enough for
most beginners to keep. The Clown Plecos of the genus _Peckoltia_ have
alternating transverse bands of darker and lighter brown, tan, or
yellow and generally stay under 4" long. The Bristlenose or Bushynose
Plecos of the genus _Ancistrus_ possess, as their common names imply,
numerous projections from the area between their eyes and mouth.
Within each species the bristles are larger on the male, especially
near breeding. In fact, Bristlenose Plecos are among the few
Loricariids to be successfully spawned in the home aquarium.
Otocinclus Cats, often just called Otos, are the smallest Loricariids
and will clean algae from live plants without hurting any but the most
delicate of them. Otos sometimes die shortly after purchase for no
apparent reason, but if they make it past this critical time they make
very good community tank residents.
While the various suckermouth catfish will indeed help to keep the
aquarium free from many common algae types, the beginner should not
make the mistake of thinking of these fish as simply algae eaters or
scavengers. They should be given foods intended just for them, such as
zucchini which can be blanched or weighted down to sink it to the
Pleco's level. Some fish food manufacturers have recently realized
that there is a market for specialized Pleco foods and now sell
products such as sinking algae wafers which fit this bill nicely.
These foods should be fed in the evening when the light reaching the
tank is low, as most Plecos are more active at this time and most
other fish which might compete for the food are less active. Pieces of
(uncoated) driftwood in the tank are also important for many Pleco
species, which rasp at the wood and ingest the scrapings. By the same
token, Plecos should *not* be kept in wooden tanks, or even acrylic
ones for that matter, as they may chew into the tank material damaging
it and/or themselves (by ingesting toxins or undigestible matter).
Pleco species can be quarrelsome amongst themselves and may be picked
on by other fish due to their generally slow-moving nature. Provide a
hiding cave for each Pleco and give them territories proportional to
their size (e.g. 10 gallons for a 3" fish.)
Tetras
Like many of the fish in the first section, Tetras are schooling fish
and should be kept in groups of six or more of the same species.
Tetras are native to Central and South America and Africa. In some
regions of South America the water is quite soft (very little rock is
dissolved in it) and acidic. (Another way of saying ``acidic'' is to
say that it has a low pH - one below 7, which is considered
``neutral''. A strong acid has a very low pH. Liquids above pH 7 are
said to be ``basic''.)
Unless you know that your tank water is also soft and acidic, the
Tetras that need that water should be avoided. Before you buy a Tetra
that you are not sure about, look it up in your book. If it says that
it needs a pH below 6.5 you should probably avoid it. While many
beginning aquarists are tempted to simply adjust the pH of their water
by buying little containers of chemicals in the pet store, do not give
in to this temptation! Water chemistry is very complex and you can
easily kill all your fish by trying it.
On the other hand, if your tap water is naturally soft and achieves a
consistent acidic pH, there is no reason that you can't try your hand
at some of these fish.
Two very popular Tetras which need soft, acidic water are the Neon
Tetra - _Paracheirodon innesi_ and the Cardinal Tetra - _Cheirodon
axelrodi_. These are quite attractive red and blue fish. The red line
on the Cardinal runs from the head on back, while in the Neon it
starts only in the belly region. But their attractiveness is their
only advantage. Besides its water requirements the Neon has the added
drawback that almost all of them are bred in the Far East in huge
numbers with no regard to quality. Further, the raising ponds for the
young fish are filled with medicines. The medicines keep diseases in
check but as soon as the fish are shipped they begin to get sick. They
die in huge numbers in the stores and in buyer's home tanks. Probably
less than 1 in 10 Neons lives for more than one month after being
removed from the pond it was raised in. Further, those two or three
tiny neons for a dollar at the local store can easily introduce a
disease that kills all the fish in your tank.
Cardinals will have a greater chance of not dying immediately after
purchase but even they will probably not live long in your home tank.
They are wild caught in Brazil as adults so they may have lived most
of their naturally short life span before you buy them.
Other Tetras which need acidic water include the Blue Neon Tetra -
_Hyphessobrycon simulans_, the Flag Tetra - _H. heterorhabdus_, _H.
metae_, the Loreto Tetra - _H. loretoensis_, the Black Phantom Tetra -
_Megalamphodus megalopterus_, and the Red Phantom Tetra - _M.
sweglesi_.
So what about those aquarists without acid water? There are plenty of
hardy Tetras out there for beginners without special water. These
include the distinctive Black or Black Skirt Tetra - _Gymnocorymbus
ternetzi_, the brightly colored Glow Light Tetra - _Hemigrammus
erythrozonus_, the radiant orange Jewel Tetra - _Hyphessobrycon
callistus_, the Flame Tetra - _H. flammeus_, and the red-tailed
Pristella - _Pristella maxillaris_, all of which grow to less than two
inches long. Slightly larger Tetras include the Penguin Tetra -
_Thayeria obliqua_ and the closely related Hockey-stick Tetra - _Th.
boehlkei_, both of which are easily recognized by the black lines
originating in the lower half of their caudal (tail) fins and running
forward, the shiny Diamond Tetra - _Moenkhausia pittieri_, and the
beautiful, trident-tailed Emperor Tetra - _N. palmeri_. Finally, the
only African Tetra frequently seen, the Congo Tetra - _Phenacogrammus
interruptus_ is a gorgeous fish which grows up to four inches long.
Cichlids
Cichlids, members of the family Cichlidae, come from Central and South
America and Africa, with a few species found in Madagascar, the Middle
East and into Asia. Cichlids are quite unlike any of the fish
discussed so far. They are related to and resemble the Perch and
Sunfish of US waters. For aquarists, cichlids pose four major
problems: (1) Some need special water conditions, (2) some have
specialized diets, (3) some get quite large (the largest up to 3'
long), and (4) all are territorial.
Again, why bother? Because for those willing to take the challenge,
the rewards can be great. If any fish can be said to be intelligent,
Cichlids can. They display this in their everyday activities as well
as in their specialized mating, breeding, and fry-raising activities.
The fish mentioned in the previous sections all lay eggs and then
ignore or even eat them! Cichlids, on the other hand, care for their
eggs and young. It is said that one of the most rewarding sights an
aquarist can see is parental Cichlids herding their fry around the
tank and protecting them from all dangers. And, even if your Cichlids
never breed, they will be more responsive to you than perhaps any
other fish. Cichlids can be much more ``pet-like'' than you might
think a fish could be.
If you do decide to take the Cichlid challenge, choosing your Cichlids
can be difficult. Some can be added to your community tank and will do
fine with the schooling fish talked about above. These include
_Curviceps - Aequidens_ (really _Laetacara_) _curviceps_, _Dorsigers -
Aequidens_ (again, really _Laetacara_) _dorsiger_, and the less
frequently seen _Nannacara anomala_, all from South America, and
Thomas' Dwarf Cichlid - _Anomalochromis thomasi_ from western Africa.
Unlike the monster Cichlids, these fish stay small (3 1/2'' is a good
sized adult) and are relatively peaceful. Two or three may be placed
in a 10 gallon tank and they should still all find places to live if
there are rocks and other decorations in the tank.
Other Dwarf Cichlids you may see are the Ram - _Papiliochromis_ (some
books use _Microgeophagus_ or _Apistogramma_) _ramirezi_, Apistos -
_Apistogramma_ species, and the Checkerboard Cichlid - _Dicrossus
filamentosus_ (referred to as _Crenicara filamentosa_ in the books).
These fish vary in their difficulty for keeping as aquarium fish, but
all of them should be avoided by beginners.
Keyhole Cichlids - _Aequidens_ (really _Cleithracara_) _maronii_,
Festivums - _Cichlasoma_ (really _Mesonauta_) _festivus_, and
Angelfish - _Pterophyllum scalare_ can be good fish for the relative
novice, but only if healthy specimens can be found and this is often
not easy. For this reason, small Keyholes and Festivums should not be
purchased. Adults of these two species are generally better choices;
still, one should look the fish over carefully and not buy them until
they have been in the store tanks for at least a week. Similarly, for
the very popular Angelfish, one needs to be very careful when buying
them. Before you buy, ask the salesperson to tell you where the store
gets its Angels. If the salesperson doesn't know, won't tell you, or
says that they come from ``the wholesaler'' (and who knows where
before that?) don't buy them. If you are told that they come from a
local breeder then you have at least a chance of getting healthy fish.
Also, Angels should be kept in tanks both taller and longer than a 10
gallon aquarium. Keyholes, Festivums, and Angels are all shy fish and
should be provided with cover -- preferably a planted tank.
Discus, like Angels, need tanks higher and longer than 10 gallon
tanks. Their specialized needs do not stop there, however, and
beginners should shy away from these difficult and demanding fish.
At the other end of the difficultly scale, a very good choice,
especially for those with a 20 gallon or larger aquarium, is the
``Jurupari'' - _Satanoperca leucosticta_ (formerly referred to in the
hobby as _Geophagus jurupari_). It does get large (up to a foot), but
it grows very slowly and may still be less than six inches long when
several years old. It is a very peaceful Cichlid which will help to
clean your tank by sifting through the gravel for uneaten food. A
similar fish, _Geophagus surinamensis_, is also a good choice.
Kribs or ``Kribensis'' - _Pelvicachromis pulcher_ are a widely seen
West African Cichlid that will do well with the larger schooling fish
and should be kept in a twenty gallon or larger tank. Male Kribs grow
to be 4" long and females stay a bit smaller.
Most of the remaining cichlids which are commonly available are too
aggressive and/or grow too large for the beginning aquarist to
effectively deal with. This includes the very popular Oscar -
_Astronotus ocellatus_ which grows rapidly to over a foot, is
opportunistically piscivorous, and is a very messy species. If the
aquarist is truly interested in keeping more cichlids than those
recommended above, she or he should be prepared to set up special,
separate (and probably larger) tanks for these fish and to read more
extensively on cichlids before buying them.
Anabantids
Anabantids are another group of fishes that are quite different from
those already discussed. Distantly related to Cichlids and Perch,
Anabantids are found in Africa and Asia. Members of the families
Anabantidae, Belontiidae, Helostomatidae, and Osphronemidae,
Anabantids are also referred to as the ``labyrinth fishes''. This is
due to a special breathing organ referred to as the labyrinth organ
which is essentially a maze of tunnels near the fish's gills.
Labyrinth fish gulp air at the surface of the water and absorb it
through the labyrinth organ, allowing them to live in water with too
little oxygen to support fish which only breath through their gills.
Some Anabantids can survive out of water for several hours breathing
only through their labyrinths, as long as they stay moist. _Anabas
testudineus_, known as the Climbing Perch, is said to be able to climb
trees and to live out of water for up to two days.
As well as giving aquarists some additional choices for community-tank
fish, Anabantids offer some unique options to fish keepers as well as
presenting a few problems. Because some Anabantids are able to
withstand cooler temperatures, and because of their ability to survive
in water with very low oxygen, these fishes can be kept in tanks or
bowls without heaters or filtration. On the other hand, some
Anabantids (particularly males of some species) are very territorial
and some grow quite large.
Breeding Anabantids can be quite rewarding. Some species build nests
out of bubbles into which they place their eggs while others, like
some Cichlids, are mouthbrooders.
The most commonly seen Anabantid is probably the Betta or Siamese
Fighting Fish (which is generally said to be _Betta splendens_ but is
probably a crossbreed). Artificial color varieties with red, blue,
green, purple, and many other colors in various combinations are
widely available. Males are bred to have very large fins and both
sexes are seen with double tails. Siamese Fighting Fish generally make
poor choices for the community tank for two reasons. First, as their
name would imply, they are very territorial. The aggression is
greatest between two males, but can be directed towards any fish that
looks to the Betta too much like another Betta. Second, their long
fins make easy targets for many fish such as Barbs. Siamese Fighting
Fish can be kept alone in bowls (the larger the better) or tanks
without filtration as long as frequent partial water changes are done.
They do need warm temperatures, however, and are sensitive to
temperature changes, so a constant heat supply is needed if the room
is less than about 75F. Also, due to poor breeding, many Siamese
Fighting Fish are not very healthy. A 3" male would be a large adult;
females stay smaller.
A better choice for keeping alone in a bowl or small tank is the
Paradise Fish - _Macropodus opercularis_. These are much hardier fish
than the Fighters and can withstand temperatures down to 60F. They may
jump, however, so the tank should be covered to be safe. Also, like
Siamese Fighting Fish, male Paradise Fish can be extremely territorial
towards one another. Paradise Fish may get up to 4" long.
Another very commonly seen Anabantid is the Blue or Three-Spot Gourami
- _Trichogaster trichopterus_. Gold, Silver, and Cosby Gouramies are
also widely available and are simply artificial color varieties of the
Blue Gourami. Blue Gouramies can get up to 6" long. They are not as
aggressive as Fighters or Paradise Fish, but more than one in a small
tank may lead to constant (if not overly deadly) chasing. They will do
well in a tank with larger schooling fishes. Similar, though slightly
smaller species include the Banded or Giant Gourami - _Colisa fasciata_
(which is only a giant compared to the similarly colored Dwarf Gourami
described below), the Thick-lipped Gourami - _Colisa labiosa_ and the
somewhat less aggressive Pearl Gourami - _Trichogaster leeri_ and
Moonlight Gourami - _T. microlepis_. The Kissing Gourami - _Helostoma
temmincki_ grows larger (up to 12") but makes a good fish for
beginners with larger tanks. It is peaceful, though males will contest
with one another by pressing their lips together and pushing - the
so-called ``kissing'' from which the common name derives. Most Kissing
Gouramies seen will be of the Pink variety.
Small Gouramies, only growing to 2" or so in length, are also
available. These include the Dwarf Gourami - _Colisa lalia_, the Honey
Gourami - _C. chuna_, and the Sunset Dwarf Gourami (probably a cross
between _C. lalia_ and _C. chuna_). In theory, these would all be good
fish for the community aquarium. In practice, these fish are often the
victims of poor breeding practices in the Far East (like so many
others described before) and many are even treated with hormones
before they are shipped to make them appear brighter in the store
tanks. A good rule of thumb is, ``If it looks too good to be true, it
probably is.''
Although harder to find, Anabantids which have had less human
interference with their reproduction are generally better choices.
Look for the Mouthbrooding Betta - _Betta pugnax_, the Licorice
Gourami - _Parosphromenus deissneri_, the Spike-Tailed Paradise Fish -
_Pseudosphromenus cupanus_, the Croaking Gourami - _Trichopsis
vittatus_, and the Dwarf Croaking Gourami - _T. pumilus_, which range
in size from 1" to 4". Do not buy Chocolate Gouramies - _Sphaerichthys
osphromenoides_ which are quite delicate, or the true Giant Gouramies
- _Osphronemus spp._ which grow quickly to well over two feet long.
Livebearers
The family Poeciliidae contains Guppies, Mollies, Platies, and many
other fishes. While these fish are often thought of as beginners' fish
they have been intentionally left off the list until now in order to
make a point. The reasons these fish are often sold to beginners are
that they are cheap, brightly colored, and have a general reputation
among non-aquarists as easy fish. Notably absent from this list is any
real suitability for keeping by beginners. For one thing, many
livebearers need high level of salt in their water to be healthy -
making them incompatible with many other aquarium fish. Many common
livebearers also are overbred, resulting in fish not nearly as healthy
as those kept by aquarists of previous generations (or by the authors
of most books). Some are not even able to reproduce without human
intervention. Finally, due to their low market price, they are
generally not well cared for and may carry diseases.
Poeciliids, as they are also called, come from the Americas, primarily
Central America. They are called ``livebearers'' (as opposed to
``egg-layers'', as all the previously discussed fish have been)
because the eggs are fertilized within the female and the fry do not
appear until the eggs have hatched. There are also livebearers from
other families in which the details of reproduction vary.
The well-known Guppy can be found in a number of colors and with as
many as 12 different artificial tail varieties. Also available is the
closest thing that you may find to the wild Guppy - _Poecilia
reticulata_: ``feeder Guppies'' which are not bred for color. The
fancy strains tend to be fragile while common Guppies often carry
diseases. Guppies should be kept in water with at least one teaspoon
of salt per five gallons of water.
Common Mollies are the Black Molly (which was derived from the Marled
Molly - _Poecilia sphenops_) and the Sail-Fin Molly - _Poecilia
velifera_ (of which there are also several color varieties available).
Black Mollies need at least one teaspoon of salt per five gallons of
water to keep them healthy and prevent the outbreak of ``ich''
(_Ichthyophthirius multifiliis_, a parasite commonly seen in aquaria)
while Sail-Fin Mollies need at least three times this amount.
Sail-Fins grow to 6" while Black Mollies stay less than 3".
Closely related, Swordtails - _Xiphophorus helleri_ and Platies -
_Xiphophorus maculatus_ are also popular fish. A number of color and
finnage varieties are available of each with some of the Platies also
referred to as ``Moons''. These fish need at least a teaspoon of salt
per 5 gallons of water to be healthy. Some varieties are susceptible
to various maladies (Tuxedo Swords often get tumors, for instance) and
as with so many other fish the naturally colored fish are probably
your best bets. ``Green Swords'' (which are really multi- colored) are
naturally colored _X. helleri_, but unfortunately wild morphs of
Platies are not often seen. The Variegated Platy - _Xiphophorus
variatus_ is sometimes seen, however, and fills this role nicely.
Bad First Fish
We have already discussed several poor choice for beginners' fish
alongside their more desirable cousins. Here are more fishes that are
seen in the stores that beginners should be warned about. Many of
these fish make good fish for advanced hobbyists while others never
make good aquarium fish. Some are even suitable for a well-informed
beginner; you just need to know what you are getting yourself into
before you buy the fishes on impulse and drop them into your community
tank.
Goldfish
Goldfish are one of the most common fish sold to beginners, but are
particularly poorly suited to this role. The common Goldfish sold as
feeders are generally full of diseases and parasites which may kill
them and other fish they are housed with. Fancy varieties, which have
been selectively bred for centuries to achieve their unnatural
appearances, are subject to a host of problems associated with their
abnormalities.
All Goldfish are cold water fish which do not do well in the lower
oxygen levels found in tropical aquaria, and therefore should not be
housed with tropical species.
Piranhas
Piranhas are among the most abused of all aquarium fish. They are
often purchased in order to watch their legendary feeding habits. As
mentioned above, feeder fish often bring diseases and parasites with
them and these can infect Piranhas. A regular diet of feeder fish can
also be quite expensive.
Piranhas are schooling fish and are generally shy and stressed when
kept as single specimens. Unfortunately, they also get big (many
species well over a foot long), so most beginning aquarists don't have
room to house more than a single Piranha. If enough tank space is
available to keep several Piranhas together, they must be kept well
fed or they will turn on each other, killing and cannibalizing one
fish after another.
Knife Fishes
There are several families of fish from South America, Africa, and
Asia, referred to as Knife Fishes. Many species of Knives get large,
some over 3' long although some of the less attractive species stay as
small as 8". All of them are nocturnal predators, a fact that many a
beginner could have used before all of his or her small fish
``mysteriously'' disappeared a few at a time.
Hatchet and Pencil Fishes
Somewhat related to Tetras, Hatchets (family Gasteropelecidae) and
Pencils (genus _Nannostomus_) are Characins from South America. Many
of them need soft and acid water and all of them are delicate.
Hatchets have the added disadvantage that they tend to launch
themselves out of the aquarium to an untimely death.
Elephant Nose and Baby Whale
More fragile fish include Elephant Noses - _Gnathonemus petersi_ and
Baby Whales - _Petrocephalus bovei_. African fishes from the family
Mormyridae, these are night feeders and are hard to provide for in the
aquarium.
Chinese Algae Eater
Chinese Algae Eaters - _Gyrinocheilus aymonieri_ are often introduced
into the aquarium to do what their common (sales) name implies - eat
algae. They are usually seen at a small size and many die within a
short time of purchase. If they live, however, they get big (up to a
foot long) and tend to prefer to rasp at the sides of slow moving fish
(making them susceptible to infections) to eating algae.
Bala Shark
Not a shark at all but a Cyprinid (related to the Carp), Bala Sharks -
_Balantiocheilus melanopterus_ quickly outgrow most home aquaria. They
get to be over one foot long.
Iridescent Shark
Unrelated to the Bala Shark or to true sharks, the Iridescent Shark -
_Pangasius sutchi_ is a catfish. It grows to over 3' and tends to
injure its nose against the aquarium glass.
Glass Catfish
Another catfish to avoid is the Glass Catfish - _Kryptopterus
bicirrhis_. While it stays small enough to be an aquarium fish (up to
6"), it is very delicate and should not be purchased by beginners.
``Plecos''
The suckermouth catfish of the genus _Hypostomus_ are often sold in
the stores as algae cleaners. Most of these species get in excess of
12". Some of the slender suckermouth catfish, such as the Whiptail -
_Dasyloricaria filamentosa_ and the Farlowella - _Farlowella
gracilis_, are quite delicate species.
Long-Whiskered Catfish
Catfish don't have long whiskers for looks. They are there to help
them hunt for their food - other fish! In addition to eating all fish
of less than half their size in the tank, many of the piscivorous
(fish-eating) Cats will outgrow most tanks. One common species of
long-whiskered catfish, the Pictus Cat - _Pimelodus pictus_ grows to
10" while the Channel Cat (a pink form is often seen) grows over 2
feet long. Shovelnose Cats are usually only seen at six inches or
greater, so the beginner does have some warning with these. Still, one
might not expect them to get 2 or 3' long.
Spiny Eels
Spiny Eels (family Mastacembelidae) are aggressive fish, some of which
grow quite large (over 3'). Some do stay small (less than 4" for one
species), but all are likely to have internal parasites.
Painted Glassfish
Painted Glassfish are Glassfish - _Chanda ranga_ which have been
``painted'' with chemical dies. This procedure adds a temporary bit of
unnatural color (which disappears with time) and stresses the fish,
causing them to be prone to diseases and parasites. This fish needs at
least 1 teaspoon of salt per gallon of aquarium water.
Brackish Water Fish
I have already mentioned some fish, such as Mollies and Glassfish,
which come from brackish waters - I simply have not called it that
before. Brackish water is intermediate between the fresh water of most
rivers and lakes and the salt water of the Oceans. Brackish water is
found in gulfs, deltas, and lagoons, as well as a some lakes and
rivers. Because brackish water fish need so much salt in their water
they are not compatible with most aquarium fish. Further, brackish
water fish generally need more room per fish to stay healthy than
freshwater fish. Some commonly seen brackish water fish include Monos
- _Monodactylus_ species, Archers - _Toxotes species_, Scats -
_Scatophagus_ species, and many species of Puffers (family
Tetraodontidae).
Salt Water Fish
If brackish water fish are to be avoided by beginners, then beginners
should stay well away from salt water fish. Their bright colors are
attractive, but they are generally much more difficult for beginners
to keep alive than are fresh water fish.
Conclusion
There are thousands of species of aquarium-suitable fish from a host
of families that are not covered above; this article is far from
comprehensive. Killifish (fish of the family Cyprinodontidae) for
example, are widely kept by many advanced hobbyists, but not often by
beginners. This is *not* because they are all unsuitable as beginner's
fish. In fact, some of them would make very good first or second fish.
They are simply not widely available in pet stores.
For choices of good beginners' fish beyond those listed here, and for
expanding once one has moved beyond the beginner level, local aquarium
clubs and friends who are aquarists can be very good sources of
information. So can many of the available fishkeeping books and
magazines. At every level of experience, the aquarist will find that
good information is well worth the time and/or money it takes to get
it.
