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                             MASTIFF F. A. Q.

                     Frequently Asked Questions about
                               the Mastiff,
                       also commonly referred to as
                 the English or Old English Mastiff (OEM)




                  "Dedicated to the Ones who wait for us
                    at the end of the Rainbow Bridge."



                            Revision History:
    * Release 1.00, January 20, 1997 (Pre-USENET Release)
    * Release 1.01, February 1, 1997
    * Release 1.02, March 14, 1997
    * Release 1.03, March 31, 1997 (USENET Release)
    * Release 1.04, August 12, 1997
         + Combined the two separate parts into one document
         + Updated the largest dog in the world's weight
         + Added 1998 Specialty information
         + Appendix D - Rescue - revised to reflect new structure
         + Appendix E - Added a number of Mastiff books, sites
         + Appendix I - Updated MCOA contact list
         + Appendix J - New or changed sites for Bullmastiffs, Dogues,
           Filas, Saints, Tibetans
         + ... and a number of minor changes through-out


    _________________________________________________________________

                            TABLE OF CONTENTS


   I. INTRODUCTION AND LEGAL STUFF

        A. Introduction
        B. Copyright
        C. Disclaimer
        D. Contributors

  II. QUESTIONS FREQUENTLY ASKED ABOUT THE MASTIFF

        1. What is a Mastiff?
        2. What is the Mastiff Club Of America (MCOA)?
        3. Where do Mastiffs come from?
        4. What are Mastiffs good for?
        5. Are all Mastiffs the same?
        6. Are Mastiffs:
             a. Aggressive?
             b. Easy to train?
             c. Fighters?
             d. Good guard dogs?
             e. Protective?
             f. Shy?
        7. What are Mastiffs like in the house?
        8. How much does a Mastiff:
             a. Cost?
             b. Eat?
             c. Weigh?
        9. Do Mastiffs:
             a. Bark much?
             b. Bite?
             c. Chew?
             d. Dig?
             e. Make good obedience dogs?
             f. Need a lot of exercise?
             g. Pass gas?
             h. Roam?
             i. Shed?
             j. Slobber?
             k. Smell?
             l. Snore?
             m. Live indoors or outdoors?
       10. How are Mastiffs with:
             a. Burglars, muggers and other miscreants?
             b. Other dogs?
             c. Other animals?
             d. Strangers?
             e. Young children?
       11. How long does a Mastiff live?
       12. Can I get a white Mastiff? What colors can I get?
       13. Male vs. female, which is friendlier? more protective? Easier
           to train?
       14. Is there anything special I should know about raising a
           Mastiff puppy - isn't it the same as any other breed?
       15. How much training does a Mastiff need?
       16. Do Mastiffs have any genetic health problems?
       17. What are the common non-genetic health problems in Mastiffs?
       18. What other problems do Mastiffs have?
       19. What kind of a temperament does a Mastiff have?
       20. What does a Mastiff eat?
       21. What kind of living quarters does a Mastiff require? How
           about crating? Where do they sleep?
       22. Does owning a Mastiff:
             a. Cost a lot?
             b. Require a lot of work?
       23. Are you trying to talk me out of getting a Mastiff?
       24. Where should I get a Mastiff?
       25. Where can I get more information about Mastiffs?
       26. How do I pick a Mastiff puppy?
       27. What questions should I ask the breeder (and what answers
           should I get)
       28. What kind of toys and other paraphernalia do I need for my
           Mastiff?
       29. Is that a Mastiff in:
       30. What's the difference between a Mastiff and a Bullmastiff?

  III. APPENDICES

        A. History of the Mastiff
        B. MCOA / AKC Mastiff Conformation Standard
        C. MCOA Code of Ethics
        D. MCOA Rescue Service
             1. What is the MCOA Rescue Service?
             2. MCOA Rescue Service Contacts
        E. Mastiff References and Resources
             1. Books
             2. Publications
             3. Video / Audio
             4. Computer Programs & Databases
             5. Mastiffs on the Internet
        F. Health Tests / Certifications every Mastiff SHOULD have
        G. Questions To Ask a Mastiff Breeder
        H. Special Aspects of Raising a Mastiff Puppy
        I. Mastiff Clubs & Contacts
             1. Mastiff Club of America
             2. US Regional Mastiff Clubs
             3. Mastiff Clubs in Other Countries
        J. Mastiff Varieties and Internet References

    _________________________________________________________________

                     I. INTRODUCTION AND LEGAL STUFF

   A. _Introduction_
      Hello and welcome to the wonderful world of the Mastiff! In our
      not so humble opinion, the Mastiff is THE best breed of dog to be
      owned by, bar none. BUT, the Mastiff is NOT a breed for everyone.
      We've tried to gear this F. A. Q. towards the breed browser and
      the first time Mastiff wanna-be owner. Here we've tried to show
      both the upside and the downside of the Mastiff / human
      relationship. Not that we're trying to chase you away (we wish
      everyone could enjoy the love and companionship of one of these
      great beasties), but we'd much rather have you know about the
      possible trials and tribulations BEFORE your new Mastiff pup walks
      through the front door, not AFTER. As the breed's popularity and
      exposure increases, more and more people are getting a Mastiff
      without any idea what-so-ever of what they're getting into. Way
      too often this ends up in severe disappoint for the human and
      tragedy for the Mastiff. So please, please, study this F. A. Q.
      Ask questions. Look before you leap! We hope that this F. A. Q. in
      some way helps you in making your decision and / or preparing for
      your life with a Mastiff. Good luck and doG Bless!
   B. _Copyright_
      This FAQ is a publication of, and Copyright (c) 1995, 1996, 1997
      by, the Mastiff Club Of America, Incorporated (MCOA). All rights
      are reserved. The Mastiff AKC Conformation Standard (Appendix B)
      is included with the permission of the American Kennel Club, Inc.
      The MCOA hereby gives permission to freely distribute this
      document in its entirety for non-profit, non-commercial, personal
      use and for traditional Internet archiving, provided that the
      document is distributed in its entirety and that no changes are
      made. Permission is also given to freely distribute excerpts and
      quotes provided that attribution is given to the Mastiff Club Of
      America, Inc. This FAQ may NOT be included in any commercial
      collections or compilations. If you find it in one, please notify
      the FAQ maintainer so appropriate action can be taken.
   C. _Disclaimer_
      This FAQ is provided as is without any express or implied
      warranties or guarantees as to the content's accuracy,
      completeness or applicability to a specific animal. While every
      effort has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information
      contained in this article, the MCOA, the contributors and the
      maintainer assume no responsibility for errors or omissions, or
      for damages resulting from the use of the information contained
      herein.
   D. _Contributors_
         + Laurie Adams
         + Donna Dick
         + Deb Jones
         + Sharon Krauss
         + Kirsten Ludwig
         + Mike McBee
         + Linda Monroe
      Please send any comments, corrections or criticisms about the FAQ
      to the FAQ maintainer, Mike McBee, at [email protected].

    _________________________________________________________________

             II. QUESTIONS FREQUENTLY ASKED ABOUT THE MASTIFF

   1. _What is a Mastiff?_
      A Mastiff is a giant breed of dog, descended from the ancient
      Alaunt and Molosser. Today, mastiff is used to describe many
      different breeds around the world, all descended from the same
      root stock. In the US and other English speaking countries,
      Mastiff is used to refer to the Old English Mastiff (OEM),
      developed in England and nearly extinct after WW II. With that in
      mind, Mastiffs (OEMs) are generally very large dogs; fawn, apricot
      or brindle in color; all with a black mask and ears; possessing a
      medium to short coat with very little white (which, if it appears,
      should be confined to the chest but often appears on the toes as
      well). There is no upper height limit and no weight range in the
      Mastiff Standard. In height they generally range from the
      Standard's minimum of 27 1/2 inches up to 36 inches for the
      exceptionally tall ones. They can weigh anywhere from 110 pounds
      to the 343 pounds of Zorba, the world's largest dog, although most
      Mastiff males weigh around 160-230 pounds and females around
      120-170 pounds. This breed is supposed to be very broad with a
      huge head, wide chest and large bone, and is longer in body than
      in height (see Appendix B, the Mastiff Conformation Standard).
      Mastiffs are not supposed to resemble Great Danes except possibly
      in height, nor Saint Bernards, except for the bone, width, chest
      and large head. They should not be as wrinkled as a Neapolitan nor
      as dome headed as a Dogue de Bordeaux, nor 'houndy' like a Fila
      Brasileiro. Mastiffs possess characteristics unique to the breed,
      especially the head with a broad, deep muzzle with flews hanging
      over the bottom lip, giving the head a square appearance. A
      Mastiff should possess a calm, self assured temperament and be
      devoted to its family and friends. Mastiffs should not be
      aggressive to humans or other animals, including other dogs,
      although, unfortunately, some of them are. Mastiffs should be
      steady, gentle, eager for affection, good with children, calm and
      self assured, and used primarily as a family companion.
   2. _What is the Mastiff Club Of America (MCOA)?_
      The Mastiff Club Of America was incorporated in 1929 to protect
      and promote the Mastiff. It is the Mastiff parent breed club
      member of the American Kennel Club. Membership is open to persons
      18 years or older, in good standing with the American Kennel Club,
      who subscribe to the purposes of the Club, and who agree to abide
      and uphold the Club's Code of Ethics (Appendix C), Constitution
      and By-Laws. Applicants must be sponsored by two MCOA members who
      have been members in good standing for at least three years.
      Applicants will be an associate member (without voting or office
      holding privileges) for a period of one year. The MCOA is a
      non-profit organization. For membership information and
      application forms, contact the MCOA Membership Chairman (see
      Appendix I.1 for contact information).
      The objectives of the Club are:
         + to encourage and promote the selective breeding of quality
           purebred Mastiffs and to do all possible to bring their
           natural qualities to fit the standard
         + to encourage the organization of independent local Mastiff
           Specialty Clubs in those localities where there are
           sufficient fanciers of the breed to meet the requirements of
           the American Kennel Club
         + to urge members and breeders to accept the standard of the
           breed as approved by the American Kennel Club as the only
           standard of excellence by which Mastiffs shall be judged
         + to do all in its power to protect and advance the interests
           of the breed and to encourage sportsmanlike competition at
           dog shows and obedience trials
         + to provide for the welfare of the breed through a program of
           Mastiff Rescue and continuing education
         + to conduct sanctioned matches, obedience trials, and
           specialty shows under the rules of the American Kennel Club.
      The MCOA conducts a roving Independent National Specialty in the
      spring of each year; in 1996 the Specialty was held in St. Louis,
      Mo. and in Sacramento, Ca., in 1997. The 1998 MCOA National
      Specialty and Obedience Trial will held May 5-9, at the Embers Inn
      and Convention Center, Carlisle, PA. See
      http://www.idsonline.com/business/djones/spec98.htm for more
      information.
      The Club publishes a quarterly Journal available by subscription
      (see Appendix I.1 for Subscription Editor's address) and a
      quarterly Bulletin for its members.
      The MCOA offers a Genetic Data Collection Service to individuals
      and breeders who are interested in researching the genetic
      background of their dogs (see Appendix F for more information).
   3. _Where do Mastiffs come from?_
      See Appendix A for a brief history.
   4. _What are Mastiffs good for?_
      Mastiffs excel as companions, family members, therapy workers and
      as watch dogs. Mastiffs have also done well, when properly trained
      and conditioned, at carting, tracking, obedience, conformation
      showing, search and rescue (SAR), and weight pulling. They are
      also great foot warmers and couch potatoes. :-)
   5. _Are all Mastiffs the same?_
      No. Like humans, Mastiffs are individuals. Each has its own
      genetic and environmental history that effects its attitude,
      temperament, health and responses to stimuli. These questions are
      answered with the general breed characteristics in mind, no
      individual Mastiff will match the answers in every respect.
      Oh, that's not what you meant. While it is correct that the breed
      of mastiff dog developed in England has pre-empted the official
      name of 'Mastiff', according to the AKC's 'The Complete Dog Book',
      18th Edition, "The breed commonly called "Mastiff" in English
      speaking countries is more properly described as the 'Old English'
      Mastiff." From the same source: "The term 'mastiff' describes a
      group of giant varieties of dogs rather than a single breed."
      If this is what you meant, then No, not all Mastiffs are the same.
      See Appendix J for a list of some of the different Mastiff
      varieties.
   6. _Are Mastiffs:_
        a. Aggressive?
           Aggression is unnecessary force or dominance in any
           situation. Aggression should not be confused with protection
           where a dog uses force or dominance to protect its people or
           territory when threatened.
           The typical Mastiff's temperament, by nature, is one of
           gentle demeanor. However, as with any breed, a Mastiff can
           become aggressive for varying reasons.
           Typically, aggressive behavior is established due to
           environment as a "learned response" and/or results from a
           lack of proper socialization during the dog's developmental
           stages.
           A certain percentage of dogs may be genetically unstable and
           inherit aggressive tendencies. For this reason, before you
           purchase a puppy, it is best to ask the breeders about the
           temperament of the sire and the dam and try to see both if at
           all possible.
           Some dogs may have a predisposition for certain
           characteristics which may be the basis for aggressive
           behavior: a dominant dog may exhibit Dominant Aggression, an
           unsocialized dog may develop Fear Motivated Aggression, or a
           dog unsocialized with other dogs may develop Species
           Aggression. Most aggression can be prevented by proper
           rearing and socialization, beginning as a puppy.
           If you are experiencing a problem, consult your Mastiff's
           breeder, your veterinarian, and/or a trained animal
           behaviorist BEFORE the problem becomes serious.
        b. Easy to train?
           Both easy and difficult. Mastiffs are smart, and live to
           please. However, they go through phases where they are also
           stubborn, and these phases can last anywhere from a few weeks
           a couple of times in puppyhood to (in some cases) the
           lifetime of the dog!
           Keep training sessions short (10-15 minutes) and frequent
           (several times a day). In addition to their stubbornness,
           Mastiffs have very sensitive feelings, and if they are
           frightened, hurt, or confused, they cannot be budged. Make
           training like a game. Use a happy, excited voice. You have to
           be consistent and firm to train effectively. Once a dog is
           well trained, it needs practice on a regular basis. Dogs LIKE
           to be trained because they WANT to know how to please their
           beloved owners. Once trained, a Mastiff seldom needs stronger
           correction than a stern voice.
           Except for formal obedience training, you can use food treats
           for motivation. But the best reward for any Mastiff is lavish
           hugs and plenty of praise.
        c. Fighters?
           Mastiffs, with their gentle natures, do not have the
           instincts that dogfighters are looking for. Their protective
           instincts make them actually the opposite to the aggressive
           fighting personality. However, they will, at times, fight
           among themselves, or with other dogs, for the typical canine
           reasons such as pack dominance and sexual competition. Two
           190 pound adult male Mastiffs in combat for pack leadership
           can be next to impossible, as well as exceedingly dangerous,
           to separate.
        d. Good guard dogs?
           Mastiffs are excellent guard dogs. They go to the door and
           bark, their hackles stand up, and they look formidable, but
           Mastiffs, as a breed, are not trigger-happy. They have a
           gentle, rather than an aggressive, nature.
           Mastiffs need the company of their human family much more
           than some other breeds of dogs do. A Mastiff left alone, tied
           out, or kept in a fenced yard with too little human company,
           will either pine away or develop destructive behaviors out of
           loneliness and anxiety. Denied the needed time with its
           family, a Mastiff may be much LESS protective because it
           isn't sure it belongs to that family.
           A normal, well adjusted Mastiff will protect it's family, but
           only if the need arises. You don't want an aggressive Mastiff
           that protects you from friends and family. The ideal
           temperament is one where you never know that you are being
           protected unless a true situation arises where a Mastiff's
           services are needed.
        e. Protective?
           Mastiffs ARE protective. However, many people do not
           understand the difference between protection and aggression.
           If a dog growls when there is no danger, that is aggression,
           NOT protection. A protective dog has the judgment to see when
           there is a real risk of danger, and therefore, if you have a
           TRULY protective dog, you may never know it till you ARE in
           danger.
           The protective instinct is shown in subtle ways, such as the
           Mastiff tending to stand between their person and a stranger.
           Many people who have kids discover that they can't spank a
           kid in front of the Mastiff -- it looks worried and gets in
           between the parent and child! Couples who sometimes
           play-wrestle together have reported their Mastiff trying to
           stop them for fear it is a fight.
        f. Shy?
           Because of their great sensitivity, Mastiffs who are not
           THOROUGHLY socialized when young can very easily become shy
           of strange people, places, and animals. Shyness can be both
           inherited and/or the result of inadequate socialization. This
           is why puppy kindergarten, obedience classes over an extended
           period of time, and visits to parks are EXTREMELY important
           to the development of your Mastiff. If you do not have the
           time to do these things with and for your Mastiff, you need
           to think over whether you are in a position to do right by a
           dog, at least at this point in your life.
           A shy dog is an uneasy, unhappy dog. If your dog is more shy
           than the average, then it is more important than ever to get
           the right amount of gentle, gradual socialization with lots
           of positive reinforcement for all its friendly, confident,
           non-shy actions.
   7. _What are Mastiffs like in the house?_
      Clean, quiet, and undemanding. Heaven to a Mastiff is a rug beside
      his owner's chair. Mastiffs are naturally clean (except for
      slobber), and quick to housebreak. Most adult Mastiffs don't chew
      what they shouldn't, and they don't get on the furniture (unless
      you let them _;-)_).
      If you do let your young Mastiff on the sofa, just remember that
      they grow FAST, and it is unfair and quite unreasonable to let the
      dog learn to enjoy something, and then decide the dog is too big
      to get up there any more. Mastiffs have long memories, and are
      much easier to train correctly the first time than to retrain to
      get rid of bad habits.
   8. _How much does a Mastiff:_
        a. Cost?
           Puppy prices usually run $800-1500 and up, depending on a
           number of variables such as pedigree, show potential,
           geographic location, and breeder costs. A higher price does
           NOT necessarily mean a better dog! Read this FAQ thoroughly
           to learn about testing and other evidences of health and
           soundness, as well as show wins, as the basis for selecting
           the pup most likely to be healthy, happy, and just what you
           want.
        b. Eat?
           Probably not as much as you think. Pound for pound, the
           larger the dog the less food it needs for each pound of body
           weight. Exactly how much food your dog needs depends on many
           factors including its size, age and activity level. Feed your
           Mastiff a good quality, balanced diet - low on table scraps -
           and don't let him get too fat.
        c. Weigh?
           Adult males generally run about 160-230 pounds, females are
           normally between 120-170 pounds. Males over 200 pounds are
           not too uncommon and a few females reach these weights.
           According to the Guinness Book of Records the record holder
           for the world's largest dog is Zorba, a Mastiff, at 343
           pounds. He stood 37 inches at the shoulder and was 8 foot 3
           inches from the tip of his nose to the tip of his tail. Zorba
           set this record in November, 1989, when he was 8 years old.
   9. _Do Mastiffs:_
        a. Bark much?
           Puppies are puppies in most breeds. Young pups tend to bark
           more than adults because of the excitement of play. Adults
           rarely bark except when you first arrive home, or they hear a
           sound they want you to investigate, like a doorbell. Most
           Mastiffs will howl if they hear a siren close by, since it
           sounds like a howl such as wild dogs would respond to.
        b. Bite?
           Any dog bites if hurt, frightened, or threatened, but a
           Mastiff that is properly trained and socialized will
           typically not bite except as a very last resort. Do NOT let a
           pup (of any age) bite anyone or anything (except its litter
           mates) in play, since they NEED to know that biting is not
           allowed. They will still bite if there is an absolute
           necessity, but will not try it any other times.
        c. Chew?
           As for chewing, puppies of any breed need to be given durable
           toys that they know it is OK to chew. Any time you catch your
           puppy chewing on anything except its own chew toys, take the
           forbidden item away from it, and give it a chew toy, and
           encourage the dog to chew on its own toy. Praise it when it
           DOES chew on its own toy. Repeat as necessary (remember, we
           told you these dogs are stubborn!)
        d. Dig?
           Engineers on the Panama Canal project considered bringing in
           a myriad of Mastiffs to do the job, but ultimately rejected
           the idea when they figured out the manpower they'd have tied
           up in pooper scoopering.
           Seriously, though, many Mastiffs do like to dig. You'll have
           to ask them why.
        e. Make good obedience dogs?
           By nature, Mastiffs are eager to please. This makes them good
           Obedience dogs. But like any other breed, temperaments vary
           between individuals, so some Mastiffs are better candidates
           for the Obedience ring than others.
           Some Mastiffs are more laid back, aloof, and lethargic; while
           others are more outgoing, inquisitive, and athletic. Though
           both types of temperaments are trainable, the latter of these
           two temperaments would be better suited for competition in
           the Obedience ring.
        f. Need a lot of exercise?
           About as much as you do. Most Mastiffs are like most humans;
           they can manage a sedentary life reasonably well - but, also
           like most humans, they reach a physical peak with a moderate
           degree of exercise. It is important that you NOT over
           exercise any Mastiff under 2 years of age. Up until this age
           (and sometimes later) their skeleton is still developing.
           Since Mastiffs tend to be stoic, and also will do just about
           anything to be with and please their people, they can easily
           end up with an inflamed joint or other problems like those
           that beset humans who run for exercise.
           When you do begin to exercise your Mastiff, begin GRADUALLY.
           Build up SLOWLY. Make sure you know and watch for the signs
           of your dog getting tired or overheated. Take ice and water
           with you in case the dog overheats. The extra weight will add
           more effect to your workout! This is not to say that Mastiffs
           should not have any exercise at all as pups. On the contrary,
           Mastiff puppies are still puppies and need to do puppy things
           like running and playing. If left to their own schedule, they
           will rest themselves when they get tired. Crating a pup for
           most of its puppyhood is more detrimental than letting it
           play and exercise in moderation in the house and yard. If you
           go for long walks and your pup gets tired, be prepared to
           carry it home! Once a Mastiff is fully grown and its growth
           plates have closed, it can usually keep up with the best of
           us!
        g. Pass gas?
           Yep. Especially on a diet of beer, hard-boiled eggs and
           beans. Actually, like humans, it depends on how the Mastiff
           reacts to the food it eats, so using a good dog food should
           minimize the problem. If a dog can digest its food properly,
           it shouldn't have gas. Different dogs do best on different
           foods. See Question 20. 'What does a Mastiff eat?' for more
           information.
           If a Mastiff should get gas in spite of your best efforts,
           watch out. It is overpowering.
        h. Roam?
           Not usually. A Mastiff of either sex tends to be stay-at-home
           dog. Learning to stay within property boundaries comes
           naturally. Some individuals, however, would put Houdini to
           shame. Nevertheless, when your Mastiff is outdoors without
           supervision, as with all breeds, it's a good idea to have him
           in a secure, fenced enclosure.
        i. Shed?
           Yes, like most breeds they shed approximately twice a year.
           But, the short, sleek Mastiff coat is less objectionable,
           when it sheds, than the coats of many long-haired breeds. A
           daily brushing will prevent accumulation of hair around the
           house.
        j. Slobber?
           Most Mastiffs only drool when 1) they have just had a drink
           of water or just ate, or 2) they are extremely agitated and
           fearful, or 3) you are eating anything that smells better
           than dogfood, and you have been foolish enough to feed the
           dog some of your food at any time in the past.
           Mastiffs with tighter lips tend to drool less. Experienced
           Mastiff folks keep hand towels all around, to wipe faces
           after every drink and meal, and other times as needed. If you
           wipe the drool off immediately, it is a lot less likely to
           get slung onto the dog's face or body, your furniture, you,
           or the walls. If it makes you feel any better, 1) you get
           used to it, and 2) St. Bernard breeders say their dogs can
           hit the ceiling with their slingers, while Mastiffs tend to
           only hit about waist height on a human.
           Actually, if you are a habitual face-wiper it won't be bad at
           all, but to be realistic, "spit happens".
        k. Smell?
           Well, Mastiffs aren't bred for tracking, so they don't all
           have the best scent discrimination. Oh, you mean smell as in
           having B.O.?
           Mastiffs need occasional bathing, but since they have a short
           coat, they dry fairly fast. If a Mastiff has a bad odor
           despite regular bathing with a good dog shampoo approved by
           your breeder or vet, it may have a medical problem such as
           fungus in the ears or between the toes, or a digestive or
           dental problem, which can cause bad breath. Hypothyroid dogs
           tend to have B.O., and infected anal glands can cause a
           serious stench. Time to go to the vet to check it out.
        l. Snore?
           Yes. Ohhhh, yes. You'd better believe it!
           Actually, snoring is genetic. The reason a dog snores is due
           to a long soft palate (the back of the upper palate). This
           characteristic, like any other, is inherited. This does NOT
           mean that the dog has to have a long 'muzzle' to be a snorer!
           It just means that the upper palate has a longer soft palate.
           So you may see certain bloodlines which do not have as many
           problems with snoring and some which are horrendous snorers.
        m. Live indoors or outdoors?
           Indoors, of course. What's the sense of having a Mastiff if
           you don't have it close to you? It certainly can't protect
           you from the boogie man if it's tied out in the yard. And
           it's useless as a footstool if you keep it fastened in a
           kennel or locked in the garage.
           Seriously, Mastiffs seem to have an instinctive need and
           desire to be as close as possible to their human family, to
           the point that their emotional development can be stunted if
           they are deprived of that closeness. Many breeders will
           refuse to sell a Mastiff unless the new owner guarantees that
           it will be kept as a house dog.
  10. _How are Mastiffs with:_
        a. Burglars, muggers and other miscreants?
           Mastiffs tend to react in predictable ways when faced with a
           threatening person. If their owner is present and a tense
           situation arises between the owner and a stranger, the dog
           will usually get between the stranger and their owner, as a
           sort of giant protective barrier that no sane mugger would
           reach over. If the stranger does anything to escalate the
           tension, the dog will probably growl or snarl at the person.
           This may occur even within a family, if, for example, the
           owners fight. This may upset the Mastiff greatly and inspire
           him to protect the party who is on the receiving end of the
           disagreement.
           If a stranger breaks into a house where there is a Mastiff,
           the Mastiff's tendency is to corner the person and not let
           them get away, holding them until their owner gets home to
           deal with the intruder. The dog may snarl or bark or even
           snap at the intruder if he tries to get away, but usually
           will not actually hurt him unless the intruder has tried to
           hurt the dog or has succeeded in hurting him.
           Dogs are creatures of habit, and it is this characteristic
           that makes them good guards. If, while your Mastiff is a
           puppy, you allow strangers like repairmen to come into your
           house when you are away, the dog will see that as normal for
           your household, and will not realize it is not "OK" for other
           strange people to come in and do things.
           Many Mastiffs, when mature, can recognize something about
           people who have unpleasant motives, and are watchful or will
           get in between you and that person. If your dog gets between
           you and a stranger in a questionable situation, trust your
           Mastiff! The dog may have sensed something you couldn't
           recognize in that person.
           Because of the intrinsic protective nature of the Mastiff,
           training as an attack or guard dog is not necessary and to do
           so may actually be detrimental to the temperament of the
           Mastiff. Mastiffs are not suitable for attack training or dog
           fighting and, if raised in kindness and socialized properly,
           will be a strong, loving companion who will defend his home
           and family if necessary.
        b. Other dogs?
           By nature a typical Mastiff is friendly and aloof toward
           other dogs. But, as with any breed, they must be properly
           socialized around other dogs from early puppyhood.
           Most cases of Dog Aggression in the Mastiff, or in any breed,
           are due to this lack of early introduction and stimuli with
           other dogs. This type of behavioral disorder is usually
           classified as Species Aggression.
           Another type of Canine Aggression is Dominance Aggression. A
           dog with dominant tendencies may seek to change its position
           in the pecking order by being aggressive toward another dog.
           This can really be a problem when there is more than one
           Dominant Aggressive dog in a multiple dog household. For this
           reason, it is best not place a dominant Mastiff in the same
           household with another dominant dog, especially of the same
           sex. While everything may seem fine while the puppy is young,
           as it matures it will seek to move up in the pack hierarchy
           and will compete for dominance with the other dog resulting
           in family turmoil.
           In most cases, proper socialization and adequate stimuli is
           the best way to head off most aggressive behavioral disorders
           before they have a chance to develop.
           If your Mastiff is aggressive, first, consult a canine
           behaviorist or professional trainer to determine if the dog
           can overcome some or all of this behavioral problem through
           retraining. ALSO have your veterinarian check for physical
           problems that can effect behavior, especially hormone
           problems such as hypothyroidism. Often spaying or neutering a
           dog aggressive dog will limit some of its tendencies to fight
           or dominate another dog, as well as cool some of the
           instinctive fighting among males and females in heat. If you
           are feeding a food that is in high in protein, try a food
           that is around 18% protein, some dogs are sensitive to excess
           levels of protein.
           If your Mastiffs do get into a fight, do NOT get between
           them. If someone else, known to the dogs, is there, each of
           you should grab a dog by the rear legs and drag them away
           from each other and separate them so that they cannot see or
           get to each other.
        c. Other animals?
           The earliest socialization, at the breeder's, and while a
           puppy is very young, influences how a particular Mastiff will
           behave with other animals. You want him to learn what YOU
           want him to accept while he is still small (this means it has
           to be done *very* young!) since a larger dog is much harder
           to control, and bad habits are harder to break than good
           habits. Some Mastiffs are born with a high prey drive and
           these dogs will need special training if a multi-pet
           household is to maintain harmony.
           A Mastiff who hasn't been exposed to cats or chickens or farm
           animals or whatever while young may treat them as prey or
           furniture, depending on the temperament of the individual
           dog. Some Mastiffs live well with cats, and recognize that
           the cats have to feel they are the bosses. Others chase cats
           without mercy even if they are wonderful dogs in every other
           way. Some dogs that were not raised around horses may sniff
           once, then ignore them, others may be afraid of them, others
           interested, etc. The point is, *you* need to plan what to
           socialize your dog to, so it will know how to behave around
           the animals that are or will be part of your household. Then
           it is not up to the highly individual reactions of a half- or
           fully-grown dog, but your choice.
        d. Strangers?
           A properly socialized Mastiff (which SHOULD be the only kind
           there is) will stand or sit beside you politely when a
           stranger is around. The world is full of people who are
           strangers to you and your dog, but who are nice, normal,
           decent folks who pose no threat. A Mastiff that is properly
           socialized (and free of severe shyness) should be polite,
           possibly aloof, but eventually friendly, after the dog sees
           your positive reaction to someone.
        e. Young children?
           They are gentle and protective, providing they have been
           raised with children and are accustomed to them. Small
           children should not be allowed to play roughly with a puppy;
           Mastiffs are a sensitive breed that can be permanently
           traumatized by rough handling.
  11. _How long does a Mastiff live?_
      Books on the breed describe the average Mastiff life span as 6-10
      years. A few have lived to be 13 or 14; a tiny handful have lived
      to be 16-17. Assuming no accidents, an individual dog's life span
      will depend on its bloodlines, weight, and freedom from
      significant problems such as blindness, heart disease, hip or
      elbow dysplasia, spondylosis, immune disorders, etc. (see
      Questions 16, 17 and Appendix F for more information on health
      problems). Sadly, there has been an increase in the death of
      middle aged and younger Mastiffs in the past 10 years or so,
      although this is not specific to Mastiffs but applies to most
      breeds.
      The increase in hereditary problems in all breeds has had the
      effect of shortening the lives of a number of animals in each
      breed, thus bringing down the averages. This is why we emphasize
      testing for health problems and breeding animals ONLY after they
      have been proven to be free of evidence of significant hereditary
      diseases. Choosing your breeder carefully, for awareness of
      problems and for evidence of specific actions taken consistently
      over a period of time to prevent these problems, will greatly
      increase your chances of getting a healthy dog with the potential
      to live to a ripe old age.
  12. _Can I get a white Mastiff? What colors can I get?_
      No, Mastiffs come in Apricot, Brindle, and various shades of Fawn.
      Since one of the faults listed in the breed standard is "excessive
      white on the chest or white on any other part of the body", then a
      Mastiff with much white on it at all is *not* correctly marked
      according to the breed standard. There are breeds for which white
      is a correct, acceptable color, but the Mastiff is not one of
      them.
  13. _Male vs. female, which is friendlier? more protective? easier to
      train?_
      These are all traits that tend to vary more between individual
      animals than between the sexes. A healthy, alert, intelligent dog
      who did well on the Puppy Aptitude test and has been well
      socialized and trained from Puppy Kindergarten onward is your best
      chance at getting all the above characteristics. Socializing a dog
      who started out with a good temperament gives you the friendliest
      dog. A dog is protective when it has bonded well with you
      (training your dog is an outstanding way to bond with it) and has
      at least begun to mature. If you start training very young the dog
      learns how to *learn* and will enjoy it more and perform better.
  14. _Is there anything special I should know about raising a Mastiff
      puppy - isn't it the same as any other breed?_
      Due to their rapid growth and their eventual giant size and
      weight, there are special precautions that should be taken with
      growing Mastiff puppies. See Appendix H for details.
  15. _How much training does a Mastiff need?_
      Because they are destined to be VERY large dogs, basic obedience
      training should be a part of every Mastiff's upbringing.
      Adequate socialization is an extremely important part of a puppy's
      training. An unsocialized dog, of any breed, can become either
      fearful or aggressive. A well socialized Mastiff is a stable
      Mastiff.
      Most Mastiffs are easy to train because they are so eager to
      please, but they are generally more easily trained when young. A
      puppy's brain develops very rapidly. New information is absorbed
      at an astonishing rate as they learn from their environment. You
      want to make certain that WHAT they learn is desirable; therefore,
      you must guide them in their learning process. Also, just as inany
      other breed, some individuals are stubborn, dominant, etc., and in
      such cases the behavior pattern should be identified early and the
      training adjusted appropriately to compensate for it.
      Unless you plan to compete in conformation or obedience, basic
      obedience is all your puppy really needs to become a valued family
      companion. Basic obedience consists of: sit, down, stay, come,
      walk on lead and proper socialization.
      To find Obedience and Socialization classes, contact your local
      Kennel Clubs and veterinarians. If you cannot locate classes, take
      your puppy out often to places where it can meet people and other
      dogs in a friendly atmosphere.
      A Mastiff does not need protection training. A well socialized
      Mastiff has, in essence, been taught what a normal situation is
      and will be able to sense when something is wrong. Even the
      gentlest Mastiff will protect its family if it is well socialized
      and bonded to them.
  16. _Do Mastiffs have any genetic health problems?_
      Mastiffs are probably about average when it comes to the number of
      hereditary health problems that they are prone to. Being a large
      breed they are very prone to joint problems. For more information
      on genetic problems, please refer to Appendix F.
         + Potentially life threatening or serious:
           (*these conditions may be inherited or in some cases
           acquired)
              o Joint: hip dysplasia; elbow dysplasia (ununited anconeal
                process, fragmented coronoid process, degenerative joint
                disease); osteochondritis dissecans (OCD) of the
                shoulders, knees, elbows or hocks.
              o Eye problems that cause blindness: cataracts*, retinal
                dysplasia with detachment, glaucoma., progressive
                retinal atrophy (PRA)
              o Other inherited eye problems: geographic retinal
                dysplasia, PPM, entropion.
              o Hypothyroidism*, immune deficiencies.
              o Wobblers syndrome.
              o Skin: demodectic mange, deep pyoderma.
              o Nervous system: myasthenia gravis*, muscular dystrophy*,
                epilepsy*
              o Other: cardiomyopathy*, leukemia.
         + Less serious and/or less common:
           (*these conditions may be inherited or in some cases
           acquired)
              o Eye problems: ectropion, iris cysts, macroblapharon
                (haw), corneal dystrophy*, distichiasis, cherry eye, dry
                eye, retinal folds.
              o Skin: allergies
              o Joint problems: HOD (hypertrophic Osteo Dystrophy),
                degenerative joint disease*, arthritis*, spondylosis of
                the spine.
              o Reproductive: cryptorchid, monorchid, vaginal
                hyperplasia.
              o Heart: murmurs*, pulmonic stenosis.
              o Other: hernias, von Willebrands Disease (vWD).
  17. _What are the common non-genetic health problems in Mastiffs?_
      Mastiffs are subject to the same common diseases and afflictions
      as every other breed of dog. Some of the more prevalent are:
         + Joint and bone: cruciate ligament rupture, panosteitis, elbow
           hygroma.
         + Urinary tract: kidney and bladder infections, bladder stones.
         + Ear infections, hot spots, cysts and tumors.
         + Reproductive: uterine inertia, pyometra, other uterine
           infections, mastitis, breast cancer.
         + Cancer (bone, bowel, brain, spine, etc. Some forms of cancer
           are inherited, most aren't).
         + Other: gastric torsion (bloat), pica (eating rocks, socks,
           etc.)
  18. _What other problems do Mastiffs have?_
         + Temperament:
              o Aggressive
              o Fearful (inherited or lack of socialization).
              o Shy
         + Structural faults:
              o Limbs: weak pasterns, cow-hocks, straight shoulders,
                stifles and/or hocks, elbows in or out instead of
                parallel
              o Bite: very undershot, overshot, crooked teeth, wry
                (twisted) jaw
              o Tail: abnormally short, kinked, bob tail
              o Feet: flat (hare foot), loose toes, turned toes or feet
              o Coat: long hair, no under coat, excessive white markings
                (piebald)
              o Movement: paddling, crossing, sidewinding, overreaching,
                lack of drive.
         + Problems caused by their size:
              o Expensive and difficult to take on an airplane once
                mature
              o Navigating steep stairs
              o Getting into small cars
              o Happy Tail (Crate Tail) syndrome - prone to abrasions
                (often accompanied by considerable blood splattering)
                from wagging against things.
  19. _What kind of a temperament does a Mastiff have?_
      Mastiffs are called gentle giants because of their benign and
      benevolent character. A Mastiff's temperament is so much a part of
      how it needs to be raised and cared for that many of the questions
      in this FAQ have incorporated one aspect or another of the Mastiff
      temperament in their answers.
      A dog this big has no NEED to growl or make menacing noises or
      faces to impress a would-be burglar or mugger. Instead, it can and
      does simply relax, but keeps an eye on situations where its human
      family could possibly be in danger of any kind.
      Mastiffs have a somewhat contradictory nature, they are very
      sensitive to the reactions of their people, most Mastiffs can be
      absolutely crushed by harsh words. Yet Mastiffs can also be among
      the most stubborn of dogs, so stubborn that you may find it to be
      an immense challenge to get them to do the same thing over and
      over for an obedience class (the Mastiff probably would rather do
      it once and then take a nap or do something different).
      Mastiffs, like people, are highly individual. Some are placid,
      some are high energy animals who need to be kept busy. A lot of
      any Mastiff's behavior depends on how well it was socialized while
      young.
  20. _What does a Mastiff eat?_
      A Mastiff will eat anything that is not nailed down! Mastiffs,
      being a giant breed, have the capability of chewing on things that
      most small breeds can't even get in their mouths.
      Oh, you meant food, huh? OK, Mastiffs do best on a food that is in
      the medium range for protein (20-25%), mid range for fat (12-18%)
      and is well balanced for calcium and phosphorus and high in iodine
      (3-5%). Feeding your Mastiff puppy foods high in protein, calories
      and fat will push the growth rate and possibly cause joint,
      ligament and tendon problems. It is best to grow your puppy at a
      slow, steady rate and not try to make him big too soon. Remember,
      the Mastiff will grow to what he was genetically programmed to be
      no matter how fast or slow that you get him there. It is best to
      take your time and grow them out slowly so as to minimize joint
      and bone problems and thus have a sound, healthy dog. If the dog
      food you intend to use is balanced for nutrition do not add
      supplemental calcium to the diet. Too much calcium causes more
      problems than too little!
      The amount of food is a judgment call, depending on the type of
      food you are feeding, the age of the Mastiff, and the body
      condition such as too fat, too thin or just right. Feed a good
      quality premium food, following the recommendations on the bag and
      adjusting the amount according to body condition. Do not let your
      Mastiff puppy or young adult get fat and make sure that you can
      feel the ribs or at least see the last two ribs when the dog is
      moving. Fat dogs have many problems with bones and joints, heart,
      liver, kidney, etc. Generally Mastiff puppies eat a lot of food
      while growing, until at least the age of two. An adult Mastiff
      generally has a slow metabolism and does not eat an exceptional
      amount of food, normally about the same as a German Shepherd or
      dog of similar or even smaller size.
  21. _What kind of living quarters does a Mastiff require? How about
      crating? Where do they sleep?_
      The standard answer to this question: Anywhere they want to!
      Mastiffs consider themselves to be part of your family, and will
      be most content if they are able to share your home with you. Many
      Mastiff breeders feel so strongly about the Mastiff's need tobe
      with their human family that they will only sell a puppy to people
      who guarantee that it will live in the house with them.
      Within your home, Mastiffs need a place of their own where they
      will feel comfortable and secure, just like any other dog. Crates
      are a practical solution, especially for puppy house training and
      safety. Wire crates are best so that the pup can see out and
      because they are harder to chew or destroy. Purchase the largest
      one you can afford so your Mastiff can grow into it. A pallet by
      your bed is also a good idea since Mastiffs want to be with their
      families and it is generally not a good idea to let them sleep on
      the bed with you. Sleeping with you puts them on the same level as
      you, so you may wind up with a dominance problem; and jumping off
      of a bed is not good for the joints when they are young. Most
      Mastiffs will wind up forgoing any wonderful bed you make for them
      and will want to sleep on the tile or linoleum floor because it is
      cooler. Caution is advised here because Mastiffs tend to clunk
      down on their elbows when lying down and many develop elbow
      hygromas from the constant banging on the elbows.
      The best beds are soft pads with blankets over them or even a baby
      bed mattress with a cover. Don't be surprised if your youngster
      shreds his bed as this seems to be great fun to most puppies - be
      sure to remove any pieces because they can be dangerous if
      swallowed.
  22. _Does owning a Mastiff:_
        a. Cost a lot?
           A Mastiff costs more to maintain than smaller breeds due to
           its large size and weight. Larger crates cost more. More and
           larger consumables are needed - food, toys and the like. Many
           medicines, such as antibiotics, heartworm preventative and
           anesthesia are prescribed based on weight, so these cost
           more. A Mastiff on a 'chewing binge' can cause much more
           damage in a shorter time than smaller breeds.
        b. Require a lot of work?
           Compared to what? Mastiffs, due to their tendency to be inert
           (like couch potatoes), and their short hair, do not require
           as much work as a breed that needs to run a lot for exercise,
           or needs daily brushing to keep a fluffy coat from getting
           matted.
           A Mastiff with a correct coat only needs a bath when it
           begins to smell "doggy" or if it has gotten into something
           that needs to be washed off. Bathing a Mastiff is sort of
           like washing a hairy Volkswagen except that the VW won't
           shake and drench you in shampoo or rinse water.
           Mastiffs need MODERATE exercise (if this much is too much for
           you, consider an older Rescue dog), a quality food with
           moderate protein and fat content, and the normal maintenance
           activities that any breed requires: clipping toenails,
           keeping teeth clean, ear cleaning, and regular vet checkups
           and vaccinations.
           The size of a Mastiff means that those toenails will be big
           and thick, harder to cut than those on a smaller dog. And
           they will eat a lot more food than your neighbor's poodle.
           Mastiffs tend to shed twice a year like most breeds, but when
           a huge dog sheds lightly, it can still add up to a lot of
           hair to vacuum.
           If you are grossed out by slingers and goobers, please be
           advised that if you own a Mastiff you might spend the rest of
           the dog's life wiping the walls and complaining about the
           mess. If you CAN handle it, you will learn tricks like wiping
           the dog's face as soon as it has finished drinking (to catch
           the slingers before they are slung).
  23. _Are you trying to talk me out of getting a Mastiff?_
      No and yes. No, because it would be wonderful if everyone could
      experience the joy and satisfaction of being owned by one of these
      gentle giants. Yes, because, as great and wonderful as they are,
      they have idiosyncrasies and problems particular to the breed. It
      would be much, much, much better if you found out that a Mastiff
      wasn't the breed for you NOW instead of after you've already
      gotten one.
      Mastiffs are not the right breed for everyone. Mastiffs are giants
      and take up a lot of space on the couch and in the house and car.
      They have powerful tails that can clean off a coffee table in one
      fell swoop or knock a small child down with one wag. And the smack
      of a tail is like being tortured with a rubber hose! Most
      Mastiff's drool and slobber, especially after eating and drinking.
      Many leave water trails all over the house after a drink and
      prefer to wipe their faces on their owners. Mastiffs like to be
      close to their family and will sit on your feet, lean against you,
      often put their paw on you and lay their heavy head in your lap.
      Occasionally people can be unintentionally injured by an exuberant
      Mastiff. Mastiffs like to follow you where ever you go and be part
      of whatever you do. They can block doorways with their huge
      bodies, stand in front of the TV and block your view, and take up
      large amounts of space with their crates and toys. If you can't
      handle any of the above, then a Mastiff is not the dog for you!
      Not recommended for:
         + Old, elderly, infirm - Mastiffs can accidentally knock down
           someone who is not steady on their feet; can aggravate back
           and other injuries; and, since they have the strength of a
           Rhino, can do unintended harm unless properly trained. If you
           just have to have one, an older, already trained Mastiff is
           recommended. See Appendix D for information about Mastiff
           Rescue, the best place to start looking for an older, trained
           Mastiff.
         + Small children - Children under about 6 can be knocked down
           by an exuberant puppy or adult. Mastiffs are, however,
           generally gentle with children of any age, but, you MUST
           supervise them when they are together so that neither the
           child nor the dog is injured.
         + Small habitats - Mastiffs are not recommended for small
           apartments or tiny houses since they tend to grow so large.
           Too many Mastiffs end up in shelters or with Rescue because
           their owners didn't take their eventual size into
           consideration. The ideal environment is one with a
           comfortable house, access to a fenced yard for potty breaks,
           where the owner knows exactly what they are getting in
           advance.
         + Guard dog - Mastiffs possess the natural ability to defend
           their family should the need arise. They should know the
           difference between friend and foe and pick up on the emotions
           of their owners. Mastiffs are not recommended as a guard dog
           for businesses or junkyards because of their instinctual need
           to bond with people and because they are so strong that they
           may overdo the guarding and hurt the wrong person. The
           Mastiff temperament is not suited for formal "guard dog"
           training due to their sensitive nature and because to do so
           may permanently ruin their temperament.
         + Neat Freaks - Do not get a Mastiff if you are a person who
           must have a clean house at all times, can't stand dog hair on
           everything, or does not like the furniture being rearranged
           when a Mastiff decides that he wants to sleep behind the
           couch or under the table. Try to match your decor to the
           color of the dog hair and slobber.
         + Workaholics - If you work long hours and someone isn't home
           often, you may want to rethink getting a Mastiff. Mastiffs
           like people and do not like being left alone all day in a
           crate or back yard. They bore easily and will find ways to
           entertain themselves while you are away. A bored, lonesome
           Mastiff may destroy things or turn their boredom on
           themselves causing such things as having to replace furniture
           (or walls), or requiring treatment for lick granulomas. If
           your home is frequently empty except for your dog, please
           reconsider getting a Mastiff and may we suggest a toy breed
           where you could have two to keep each other company or
           perhaps a cat, bird or reptile.
         + Those on a tight budget - Mastiffs are giants and therefore
           the cost of upkeep is high. Everything you need to maintain
           one is expensive from the bedding, the collars, the food
           bowls, the food, to the vet bills. If you are on a tight
           budget or do not enjoy spending money on your dog, please
           reconsider getting this breed. The initial purchase price of
           the pup will be the least expensive part of owning a Mastiff.
  24. _Where should I get a Mastiff?_
         + Middleman who buys puppies from breeders and resells them?
           NO!
         + Pet Shop?
           NO!
         + Backyard breeder?
           NO!
         + Reputable breeder?
           YES!
           The best way to get a healthy, happy, quality Mastiff puppy,
           is to buy directly from a breeder. Reputable breeders put the
           welfare of their dogs and the improvement of the breed above
           their desire for financial gain. Reputable breeders will take
           back or replace a puppy who is found to have a congenital
           defect. Breeders who are members of the Mastiff Club Of
           America have agreed to abide by a Code of Ethics (see
           Appendix C). A Breeder Referral list is available from the
           MCOA, see Appendix I.1 for details.
         + Mastiff Rescue?
           YES!
           Unfortunately, usually through no fault of their own, a
           number of Mastiffs end up homeless every year. The MCOA's
           Rescue Service is charged with helping these distressed
           Mastiff's find new homes. See Appendix D for more
           information.
  25. _Where can I get more information about Mastiffs?_
      See Appendix E for Mastiff information sources and Appendix I for
      Mastiff Clubs and contacts.
  26. _How do I pick a Mastiff puppy?_
      After you have chosen your breeder and your puppy's sire and dam,
      you're ready to choose your Mastiff puppy. But which one? The most
      important aspect of this choice is temperament. Puppies'
      temperament's vary even within the same litter.
      Many people will choose the first puppy that runs up to them and
      pulls at their pant leg because they think this must be a more
      outgoing puppy. Not every Mastiff is for every family and this
      puppy may not necessarily be THE puppy for your family. So how DO
      you choose a puppy?. You should choose a Mastiff puppy that has a
      temperament that compliments your family's.
      Ideally your puppy's breeder will use Puppy Aptitude Testing and
      family profiles to match puppies with their new owners. Puppy
      Aptitude Testing evaluates the individual temperament of each
      puppy. A family profile consists of a series of questions which
      allows the breeder to assess your family's situation and
      disposition. The breeder may even ask to choose a puppy for you.
      If the breeder is skilled in Puppy Aptitude Testing, they can
      generally choose the best puppy for your family. If the breeder
      does not perform these tests, you will need to know how to choose
      the right puppy yourself.
      First, look at your family's situation: Do you have small
      children? Do you have elderly in your household? Is your family
      quiet or of gentle nature? Do you already have another dog? Do you
      feel guilty when disciplining your children or current dog?
      If you have answered "yes" to any of these questions you may
      prefer a puppy with a more subordinate temperament. A dog with
      dominant tendencies would not fit into this particular family
      situation. Dogs are pack animals and they will try to establish a
      pecking order within their pack, and your family will be their new
      pack.
      Subordinate (submissive) does not mean shy or timid. A puppy with
      a subordinate temperament will simply be closer to the bottom of
      the dominance ladder (pecking order). A subordinate puppy will not
      try to dominate the small children within your household, nor will
      it be as apt to challenge your authority or to compete with
      another dog for dominance. Note: Timidity (shyness) is a genetic
      fault in Mastiffs.
      If you already have a dog: Is it submissive or dominant? What is
      its size? Is it male or female? With another dog already in the
      family, especially a dominant one, consider a Mastiff puppy with a
      more submissive temperament and/or one of the opposite sex. A
      submissive puppy will be less likely to challenge your existing
      dog for pecking order. Males seldom compete with females for
      leadership position. Smaller dogs can be easily injured if they
      are involved in disputes with a Mastiff.
      Are you experienced with large breeds? Do you NOT have small
      children nor elderly within your home? Are you comfortable
      offering constructive criticism? Have you had any dog training
      experience of any kind? Is your current dog a larger breed of
      submissive nature? Do you have the time and are you planning to
      train this puppy in either Obedience, Conformation, or for Canine
      Good Citizenship? Is your family active and outgoing?
      If you have answered "yes" to all of these questions you may wish
      to consider a puppy with more dominant tendencies. Dominant does
      not mean aggressive. A Mastiff with dominant tendencies is one
      which would compete for its place higher up on the dominance
      ladder. It will be more apt to challenge a child or another dog.
      There is a difference between a dog with dominant tendencies and a
      true Alpha dog. An Alpha dog, of any breed, may even try to
      challenge YOUR authority. It is never a good idea to place a
      dominant puppy into a home with another dominant dog, especially
      of the same sex. Properly reared dogs with dominant tendencies can
      be wonderful, loving family companions.
  27. _What questions should I ask the breeder (and what answers should
      I get)?_
      Before talking to a breeder, before you even start looking for a
      puppy, DO YOUR HOMEWORK FIRST! Read this FAQ. Check out the books
      and Internet resources listed in the Appendices. Read the FAQs on
      'Selecting a Dog', 'Getting a Dog', 'Your New Puppy', 'Your New
      Dog', 'Health Care Issues' and other subjects (these can be found
      at http://www.zmall.com/pet_talk/dog-faqs/. Go to the library.
      Read, read, read. Ask veterinarians what they see frequently and
      what to be aware of. Go to some dog shows and talk to the
      exhibitors. It is vital to have knowledge BEFORE you get or even
      start looking for a puppy. Forewarned is forearmed.
      This may seem like a lot of research, but you are undertaking a
      long term commitment that may last 8, 10 or even more years -
      longer than a new car, often longer than a house, or even, these
      days, longer than a spouse! A Mastiff will quickly become a major
      factor in your day to day existence, with significant influence on
      your lifestyle. It is up to you to do everything you can ahead of
      time to ensure that this influence will be a positive one.
      A hastily or poorly chosen Mastiff can make your life miserable,
      and, if subject to health problems, can cause a significant drain
      on your financial resources.
      Appendix G contains a list of questions that you should ask the
      breeder of a Mastiff puppy that you are contemplating acquiring.
      The 'Getting a Dog FAQ' at
      http://www.zmall.com/pet_talk/dog-faqs/also contains more general
      questions to ask a breeder.
  28. _What kind of toys and other paraphernalia do I need for my
      Mastiff?_
         + TOYS
           Mastiffs are big, strong puppies and even bigger, stronger
           adults, with a biting capacity of estimated at over 300 psi.
           Keeping that in mind, most toys and chewies for your Mastiff
           will have to be durable and able to withstand major abuse.
           Many toys are suitable for youngsters but not for adults and
           you will have to add to the toy box as your Mastiff grows
           older and stronger. When first introducing a new toy it is a
           good idea to supervise your Mastiff to see how they handle
           it. If they rip the toy to shreds and start swallowing lots
           of it - take it away and try a different toy. Each dog is an
           individual and what is good for one is not necessarily good
           for another.
           Some good toys to start out with are:
           Puppies - Nylabones, Kongs, Vermont Chews (stuffed),
           compressed rawhide bones (not shredded and pressed together,
           but whole pieces rolled up and compressed under thousands of
           pounds of steam), carefully selected children's stuffed
           animals, plastic soda bottles with the cap and cap ring
           removed (discard if the pup starts to tear apart), knotted
           rope bones (discard when shredded), large rope rings, soccer
           and basketballs, various dental chews, hard plastic or pvc
           balls, safe squeaky toys (human children's are the safest and
           least toxic), raw or sterilized beef bones, raw fruit and
           vegetables (No onion!), empty cardboard boxes (remove all
           staples, loose packing and labels), empty toilet paper and
           paper towel tubes (pups will empty them for you!) and cow
           ears. Puppies also enjoy shredding newspaper but it is messy
           and they can get black ink on themselves. It's not toxic
           though and it won't hurt them, unless they eat to much!
           Adult (over 6 months) - Same as above but delete the squeaky
           toys and plastic balls. Add old lawn mower tires, large
           knotted rope bones, huge nylabones and dental chews, big beef
           bones (knuckle, femur, etc.), larger fruit and vegetables
           (edible, biodegradable toys!), giant Kongs, large cardboard
           boxes (messy, but so much fun).
           There isn't a toy made that a Mastiff cannot destroy so
           please be careful in your selection and keep an eye on them.
           If any of the toys you have selected become badly chewed,
           shredded or have chunks missing, discard them and get
           something else. Each Mastiff is a little different in how it
           deals with each object. Some will lay down and eat a whole
           bone whereas others will occasionally gnaw on it and have it
           last a long time. Some will ignore toys that others covet.
           Try various things and see what your dog likes. Remember,
           anything can be dangerous if not used properly and can cause
           problems for your Mastiff. The best advice is to know your
           dog and watch it with new toys until you are certain that the
           toys won't be eaten (except for fruit & veggies) or destroyed
           in one sitting! Have fun and be creative!
         + FOOD and WATER DISHES
           Stainless steel is suggested for several reasons. It is
           basically indestructible and is easy to sterilize and
           dishwasher safe. Buy the largest one you can find for a water
           bowl and at least a 5 qt. size for the food.
         + COLLARS and LEASHES
           Up until about 6 months old, most collars will work just fine
           including the adjustable ones with a plastic snap. After 6
           months it is best to use a buckle type collar made of either
           wide nylon or leather. A six foot lead is recommended for
           training and a shorter leash for going on walks. You can use
           either nylon or leather, just be sure it has a strong snap!
           For formal training, like at an obedience class, you will
           need a "choke" chain, usually made with metal links. Your
           instructor will advise you of the correct size and how to put
           it on the pup and how to use it properly. Remember: NEVER
           leave a dog, puppy or adult, unattended with a choke collar
           on as they can easily get it caught on something, even in a
           crate, and strangle themselves!
      One company that publishes a catalog specifically for big dog
      items is Big Dog Basics & Pyraphernalia at
      http://www.gcnet.com/bigdogs/ (316) 276-8665
      The 'Resources FAQ' at http://www.zmall.com/pet_talk/dog-faqs/has
      an extensive list of dog supply catalogs, magazines, and
      organizations. In it you can find listing for things such as
      weight pulling harnesses, backpacking necessities and everything
      else imaginable for your Mastiff.
  29. _Is that a Mastiff in:_
         + Beethoven?   No, a St. Bernard.

         + Cybil?   Yes.

         + Howard Huge?   No, a St. Bernard(?).

         + Marmaduke?   No, a Great Dane.

         + Sandlot?   Yes.

         + The Secret Garden?   Yes.

         + That's My Dog?   Yes.

         + The Truth About Dogs?   No, a ???.

         + Turner and Hooch?   No, a Dogue de Borduex (French Mastiff).

         + Meet Wally Sparks?   Yes.

  30. _What's the difference between a Mastiff and a Bullmastiff?_
      The Mastiff is an ancient British breed and its history can be
      traced back over 2,000 years. The Bullmastiff is a relatively
      recent breed developed from crossing Mastiff (60%) and Bulldog
      (40%) stock. The Bullmastiff's shorter, more compact, more
      muscular look; shorter muzzle; higher energy level and greater
      stubbornness are derived from the Bulldog part of the
      Bullmastiff's ancestry.
      The most noticeable differences are temperament, the conformation
      of the heads and overall size of the dogs.
      Mastiffs have a mellower, more relaxed temperament, compared to
      the pushier, more active temperament of the typical Bullmastiff.
      The Mastiff's forehead should be slightly curved and the stop
      (indentation between the eyes) well marked but not too abrupt
      while the Bullmastiff's forehead should be flat and the stop
      moderate.
      Mastiff males should be at least 30" at the shoulder and females
      27 1/2" at the shoulder, with no upper limit for height.
      Bullmastiff males should be between 25-27" at the shoulder and
      females 24-26" at the shoulder.
      Weight ranges differ significantly between the breeds, with the
      Bullmastiff being smaller as well as more compact. The Bullmastiff
      Standard lists 110-130 pounds for males, 100-120 pounds for
      females. While the Mastiff Standard specifies no weight ranges,
      males weights usually run 160 pounds and up, females 120 pounds
      and up.

    _________________________________________________________________

                             III. APPENDICES

   A. _History of the Mastiff_
      There is evidence of Mastiff-like giant dogs dating back as far as
      2500 BC in the mountains of Asia. Bas-reliefs from the Babylonian
      palace of Ashurbanipal (now on display in the British Museum)
      depict Mastiff-type dogs hunting lions in the desert near the
      Tigris River. Their coloration, of course, cannot be told, but
      other than being taller and leaner than current-day Mastiffs (as
      ours would be if raised in a desert and fed lightly), they are
      remarkably like our modern Mastiffs, despite the passing of nearly
      4500 years.
      After this clear visual evidence, we must rely on folklore and
      oral history. Phoenician traders are believed to have introduced
      the Mastiff to ancient Britain, where the Romans found them and
      brought them back to fight in the arena.
      Marco Polo wrote of Kubla Khan, who kept a kennel of 5,000
      Mastiffs used for hunting and war.
      When Hannibal, the great Roman leader, crossed the Alps, he took
      with him several battalions of trained war mastiffs, who, during
      their long travels, "fraternized" with local breeds to produce
      what became the St. Bernard, once called the Alpine Mastiff, as
      well as other giant breeds.
      All of the massive mountain dogs of Spain, France, Turkey, and the
      Balkans can trace their size back to Mastiff blood in their
      ancestry. Even the Chow Chow carries Mastiff blood, as does the
      Pug, which was originally a form of dwarf Mastiff.
      Theories advanced by various authors have focused on one or more
      of the above to try to identify the *origin* of the breed. What
      should matter the most to us is what the breed is like now, and
      how it came to be that way. Despite the differences of opinion on
      where the Mastiff originated, most agree that the British are the
      creators of the breed as we know it today.
      Of all the countries who used the Mastiff, it was the British who
      kept him in his purest form, and it is to them that we owe the
      Mastiff of today. They kept Mastiffs to guard their castles and
      estates, releasing them at night to ward off intruders. Henry VIII
      is said to have presented Charles V of Spain a gift of 400
      Mastiffs to be used in battle.
      The Legh family of Lyme Hall, Cheshire, who were given their
      estate by Richard II (1377-1399), kept and bred Mastiffs for many
      generations. Stowe's Annual, a reference book, shows that King
      James I (1603-1625) sent a gift of two Lyme Hall mastiffs to
      Phillip II of Spain. These, or their immediate descendants, are
      certainly the Mastiff-type dogs shown in famous portraits of the
      Spanish royal children.
      Other sources indicate that Mastiffs were used as war dogs by the
      ancient Celts, and accompanied their masters into battle. When the
      Romans invaded Britain, they took the dogs back to Italy and used
      them to guard property and prisoners, as well as using them to
      fight in the arena.
      The Mastiff was one of the few breeds mentioned by name in The
      Forest Laws of King Canute, the first written laws of England.
      There, Mastiffs were required to be checked by the tax collector,
      who would make sure the middle toes of each front foot were
      removed so the dog could not run fast enough to catch the deer
      (which traditionally belonged to royalty). Tax collectors have not
      evolved much over the centuries; the penalties for failing to meet
      their requirements were extreme. In the Forest Laws, Mastiffs were
      mentioned specifically as being kept for protection.
      In the Elizabethan Era, the Mastiff was used to fight wild animals
      (e.g., bears, tigers, etc.), usually for the entertainment of the
      Queen. After the cessation of this cruel sport, Mastiffs continued
      to be bred by the Dukes of Devonshire and Sutherland, the Earl of
      Harrington, and other nobles.
      According to the scanty records of the Pilgrim Fathers, two dogs,
      a Mastiff and a spaniel, accompanied the Plymouth colonists aboard
      the Mayflower on their journey to the new world.
      In England, dog showing became popular in the mid-1800s. Wealthy
      people kept and bred Mastiffs and started the first recorded
      pedigrees. These were registered with what was then the only
      kennel club in the world, The Kennel Club in England.
      During the World Wars, Mastiffs were used to pull munitions carts
      on the fronts. In America, they were frequently found on
      plantations as property guards.
      The size of the Mastiff and its need to eat about as much food per
      day as an adult human made a Mastiff too costly for most common
      folk to keep, except perhaps for butchers. In England they were
      sometimes called "the Butcher's Dog" because a butcher had enough
      meat scraps to feed a Mastiff well, and could therefore afford to
      keep one, even though he was not wealthy.
      Mastiffs began to decline in popularity until the late 1800's,
      when interest revived briefly, and Mastiffs started to be imported
      into America. World War I saw their decline again in England, and
      by the 1920's they were almost extinct in that country in their
      pure form. It was considered unpatriotic to keep dogs alive who
      ate as much in a day as a soldier; entire huge kennels were put
      down as a result.
      World War II all but finished the breed in England. At the end of
      the war, fresh blood was imported from Canada and the United
      States to revive the breed. Now, fortunately, Mastiffs are well
      established again, the United States having perhaps the greatest
      number.
      Breeders today have bred the Mastiff for gentleness and have
      created an excellent companion, large enough to deter intruders
      and yet gentle enough to be dependable around children.
   B. _MCOA / AKC Mastiff Conformation Standard_
      _OFFICIAL STANDARD FOR THE MASTIFF_
      _General Appearance_
      The Mastiff is a large, massive, symmetrical dog with a well-knit
      frame. The impression is one of grandeur and dignity. Dogs are
      more massive throughout. Bitches should not be faulted for being
      somewhat smaller in all dimensions while maintaining a
      proportionally powerful structure. A good evaluation considers
      positive qualities of type and soundness with equal weight.
      _Size, Proportion, Substance_
      _Size_ - Dogs, minimum, 30 inches at the shoulder. Bitches,
      minimum, 27-1/2 inches at the shoulder. _Fault_-Dogs or bitches
      below the minimum standard. The farther below standard, the
      greater the fault.
      _Proportion_ - Rectangular, the length of the dog from forechest
      to rump is somewhat longer than the height at the withers. The
      height of the dog should come from depth of body rather than from
      length of leg.
      _Substance_ - Massive, heavy boned, with a powerful muscle
      structure. Great depth and breadth desirable. _Fault_-Lack of
      substance or slab sided.
      _Head_
      In general outline giving a massive appearance when viewed from
      any angle. Breadth greatly desired.
      _Eyes_ - set wide apart, medium in size, never too prominent.
      Expression alert but kindly. Color of eyes brown, the darker the
      better, and showing no haw. Light eyes or a predatory expression
      is undesirable.
      _Ears_ - small in proportion to the skull, V-shaped, rounded at
      the tips. Leather moderately thin, set widely apart at the highest
      points on the sides of the skull continuing the outline across the
      summit. They should lie close to the cheeks when in repose. Ears
      dark in color, the blacker the better, conforming to the color of
      the muzzle.
      _Skull_ - broad and somewhat flattened between the ears, forehead
      slightly curved, showing marked wrinkles which are particularly
      distinctive when at attention. Brows (superciliary ridges)
      moderately raised. Muscles of the temples well developed, those of
      the cheeks extremely powerful. Arch across the skull a flattened
      curve with a furrow up the center of the forehead. This extends
      from between the eyes to halfway up the skull. The stop between
      the eyes well marked but not too abrupt. Muzzle should be half the
      length of the skull, thus dividing the head into three parts-one
      for the foreface and two for the skull. In other words, the
      distance from the tip of the nose to stop is equal to one-half the
      distance between the stop and the occiput. Circumference of the
      muzzle (measured midway between the eyes and nose) to that of the
      head (measured before the ears) is as 3 is to 5.
      _Muzzle_ - short, broad under the eyes and running nearly equal in
      width to the end of the nose. Truncated, i.e. blunt and cut off
      square, thus forming a right angle with the upper line of the
      face. Of great depth from the point of the nose to the underjaw.
      Underjaw broad to the end and slightly rounded. Muzzle dark in
      color, the blacker the better. _Fault_-snipiness of the muzzle.
      _Nose_ - broad and always dark in color, the blacker the better,
      with spread flat nostrils (not pointed or turned up) in profile.
      _Lips_ - diverging at obtuse angles with the septum and
      sufficiently pendulous so as to show a modified square profile.
      _Canine Teeth_ - healthy and wide apart. Jaws powerful. Scissors
      bite preferred, but a moderately undershot jaw should not be
      faulted providing the teeth are not visible when the mouth is
      closed.
      _Neck, Topline, Body_
      _Neck_ - powerful, very muscular, slightly arched, and of medium
      length. The neck gradually increases in circumference as it
      approaches the shoulder. Neck moderately "dry" (not showing an
      excess of loose skin).
      _Topline_ -In profile the topline should be straight, level, and
      firm, not swaybacked, roached, or dropping off sharply behind the
      high point of the rump.
      _Chest_ - wide, deep, rounded, and well let down between the
      forelegs, extending at least to the elbow. Forechest should be
      deep and well defined with the breastbone extending in front of
      the foremost point of the shoulders. Ribs well rounded. False ribs
      deep and well set back.
      _Underline_ - There should be a reasonable, but not exaggerated,
      tuck-up.
      _Back_ - muscular, powerful, and straight. When viewed from the
      rear, there should be a slight rounding over the rump.
      _Loins_ - wide and muscular.
      _Tail_ - set on moderately high and reaching to the hocks or a
      little below. Wide at the root, tapering to the end, hanging
      straight in repose, forming a slight curve, but never over the
      back when the dog is in motion.
      _Forequarters_
      _Shoulders_ - moderately sloping, powerful and muscular, with no
      tendency to looseness. Degree of front angulation to match correct
      rear angulation.
      _Legs_ - straight, strong and set wide apart, heavy boned.
      _Elbows_ - parallel to body.
      _Pasterns_ - strong and bent only slightly.
      _Feet_ - large, round, and compact with well arched toes. Black
      nails.
      _Hindquarters_
      _Hindquarters_ - broad, wide and muscular.
      _Second thighs_ - well developed, leading to a strong hock joint.
      _Stifle joint_ - is moderately angulated matching the front.
      _Rear legs_ - are wide apart and parallel when viewed from the
      rear. When the portion of the leg below the hock is correctly "set
      back" and stands perpendicular to the ground, a plumb line dropped
      from the rearmost point of the hindquarters will pass in front of
      the foot. This rules out straight hocks, and since stifle
      angulation varies with hock angulation, it also rules out
      insufficiently angulated stifles. _Fault_-Straight stifles.
      _Coat_
      Outer coat straight, coarse, and of moderately short length.
      Undercoat dense, short, and close lying. Coat should not be so
      long as to produce "fringe" on the belly, tail, or hind legs.
      _Fault_-Long or wavy coat.
      _Color_
      Fawn, apricot, or brindle. Brindle should have fawn or apricot as
      a background color which should be completely covered with very
      dark stripes. Muzzle, ears, and nose must be dark in color, the
      blacker the better, with similar color tone around the eye orbits
      and extending upward between them. A small patch of white on the
      chest is permitted. _Faults_-Excessive white on the chest or white
      on any other part of the body. Mask, ears, or nose lacking dark
      pigment.
      _Gait_
      The gait denotes power and strength. The rear legs should have
      drive, while the forelegs should track smoothly with good reach.
      In motion, the legs move straight forward; as the dog's speed
      increases from a walk to a trot, the feet move in toward the
      center line of the body to maintain balance.
      _Temperament_
      A combination of grandeur and good nature, courage and docility.
      Dignity, rather than gaiety, is the Mastiff's correct demeanor.
      Judges should not condone shyness or viciousness. Conversely,
      judges should also beware of putting a premium on showiness.
      Approved November 12, 1991
      Effective December 31, 1991
   C. _MCOA Code of Ethics _

  _MASTIFF CLUB OF AMERICA_

  _REVISED CODE OF ETHICS
  NOVEMBER 1995_

      The Mastiff Club of America requires its members to adhere to the
      following guidelines which constitute its Code of Ethics. The Club
      also requires that members, breeders and stud dog owners not aid
      or abet the violation of these guidelines by anyone else. This
      Code details certain practices necessary to implement the
      objectives of the Club as outlined in Article I, Section 2 of its
      Constitution.
        1. I will consider only the betterment of the breed when
           breeding a bitch or allowing a breeding with my stud dog,
           being conscientious of controlling and eliminating inherited
           problems. A breeder and stud dog owner shall plan each
           breeding with the paramount intention of protecting the
           breed,, and only when the parties involved agree the breeder
           is in a position and has the knowledge to give proper care to
           both the bitch and offspring.

        2. I will not allow a bitch to be bred prior to her reaching
           twenty- two (22) months of age, nor shall any bitch be bred
           after her seventh (7) birthday. A bitch will not be bred more
           than once (1) a year unless she does not whelp a litter, the
           litter is stillborn, consists of a single (I) pup, or as part
           of a veterinarian's recommendation for treatment of pyometra.
           Any other reason for a bitch to be bred more than once (I) a
           year would need to be stated in writing, along with a
           licensed veterinarian's certification of good health, to be
           received by the Recording Secretary at least forty-five (45)
           days prior to the breeding for the Board's approval.

        3. I will sell a Mastiff only to a buyer whom I believe to be
           interested in the protection of the breed and who would agree
           in writing to provide the highest quality of care for said
           Mastiff, including quality food, water, proper shelter from
           heat or cold; active companionship, appropriate exercise,
           socialization and professional veterinary care whenever
           necessary.

        4. An MCOA member will sell each Mastiff puppy/adult on a
           written contract signed by all parties. Said contract shall
           contain, but is not limited to the following provisions:
             a. Complete care/feeding instructions.
             b. A record of innoculations and worming with a recommended
                continuation schedule.
             c. Provide the buyer with a five (5) generation pedigree on
                the litter.
             d. Furnish a signed AKC registration or transfer form,
                unless written agreement is made with the buyer that
                such papers are withheld or are to follow.
             e. A provision that ensures that the breeder is contacted
                whenever an owner can no longer keep a dog at anytime in
                the dog's life.
             f. Stipulate that the buyer have a veterinary check-up
                within five (5) working days of the sale, (or whatever
                is applicable in your state of residence), to determine
                that the Mastiff is healthy. If the veterinarian
                determines that the Mastiff is not in good health, the
                breeder will, upon the Mastiffs return, refund the
                purchase price or replace the Mastiff.
        5. I will not knowingly sell or provide a Mastiff for resale,
           gift or prize or to a broker/agent for resale. I will not
           engage in the brokering of puppies, (selling or buying),
           EXCEPT in a case that would prevent a potential rescue
           situation. ALL SUCH CASES MUST be documented by letter to the
           MCOA Recording Secretary.

        6. I will not sell a puppy/adult who is sick, nor will I ship or
           deliver to the buyer a puppy less than eight (8) weeks of
           age.

        7. I will show good sportsmanship at all times and in all
           matters relating to Mastiffs. I will maintain the highest
           degree of honesty and integrity. I will not knowingly make a
           misstatement of fact in any serious discussion or
           advertisement of my Mastiffs or the Mastiffs of any other
           Mastiff owner, that I might have with persons not qualified
           to judge the facts for themselves.

        8. If I should find myself unable to physically take back a
           Mastiff, bred/sold by me, who has been displaced, I will
           assist MCOA Rescue or a regional club rescue program in the
           placement of said Mastiff.

        9. I will require the neutering/spaying of any puppy/adult I
           place or sell as pet quality as soon as the dog reaches the
           appropriate age.

       10. I will not sell a Mastiff for the purpose of attack training,
           fighting, or any other sport detrimental to the breed and its
           reputation.

       11. I will not produce more than eight (8) litters, owned or co-
           owned, in a twenty-four (24) month period. As a stud dog
           owner I will not knowingly allow my stud dog to be used in a
           program which has already produced more than eight (8)
           litters in a twenty-four (24) month period.
      _MCOA BY-LAWS; ARTICLE VI - DISCIPLINE; SECTION 2 - CHARGES_
      Any member or non-member may prefer charges against a member for
      alleged misconduct prejudicial to the best interests of the breed
      or Club. Written charges with specifications must be filed in
      duplicate with the Recording Secretary together with a refundable
      fee of fifty (50) dollars, if charges are heard. ...
   D. _MCOA Rescue Service_
        1. What is the MCOA Rescue Service?
           The Mastiff Club of America sponsors a national Rescue
           Service for Mastiffs in need. Dogs that are available for
           adoption come from a variety of circumstances, including
           shelters. Usually they range from two to six years old.
           When a Mastiff is released to the Club, it is taken to a
           veterinarian for a medical checkup and necessary
           vaccinations. The dog's temperament is evaluated and the
           Rescue Service attempts to locate any past history of the
           dog. These dogs are neutered or spayed before being released
           to their new homes.
           The Rescue Service requests a donation for an adopted Mastiff
           based on the age and general health of the dog. In order to
           be considered as an adoptive home, a Family Profile Form must
           be completed.
           To obtain more information about adopting a rescued Mastiff,
           send a SASE to:


                     MCOA Rescue Service
                     6360 Conley Rd.
                     Concord, OH 44077


        2. MCOA Rescue Service Contacts
           To report a Mastiff in need, contact the nearest Rescue
           Coordinator listed below.
           _NATIONAL OFFICERS:_
              o _Director_


                           Gloria Cuthbert (OH)
                           phone: (216) 639-1160
                           email: [email protected]

              o _Assistant to the Director - Western US_


                           Paula Lange (AZ)
                           phone: (520) 476-2351

              o _Assistant to the Director - Eastern US_


                           Alma Bowman (GA)
                           phone: (706) 965-4219

           _REGIONAL COORDINATORS:_
              o _NORTH-WESTERN REGION_ - AK, HI, ID, OR, WA


                           Pacific Northwest Mastiff Club
                           Paul & Misty Shearon (WA)
                           phone: (360) 832-7245
                           email: [email protected]


              o _WESTERN REGION_ - AZ, CA, CO, KS, MT, ND, NE, NM, NV,
                SD, UT, WY


                           Karen Flocker (AZ)
                           phone: (520) 779-0473
                           email: [email protected]


              o _MID-WESTERN REGION_ - IA, IL, IN, KY, MI, MN, MO, OH,
                WI


                           Debbie Greiner (IL)
                           phone: (773) 763-7793
                           email: [email protected]


              o _MID-SOUTHERN REGION_ - AR, LA, OK, TX


                           Janet Powell (TX)
                           phone: (214) 342-3763


              o _NORTH-EASTERN REGION_ - CT, DE, MA, MD, ME, NH, NJ, NY,
                PA, RI, VA, VT, WV


                           Gina Anelli (CT)
                           phone: (860) 283-6278


              o _SOUTH-EASTERN REGION_ - AL, FL, GA, MS, NC, SC, TN


                           Deborah Martin (NC)
                           phone: (919) 556-0206


              o _www_


                           Mastiff Rescue - Southern California -
                           http://members.aol.com/rontobin/index.htm
                           MCOA Rescue -
                           http://www.idsonline.com/business/djones/resc
                           ue1.htm


   E. _Mastiff References and Resources_
        1. Books
           Unless indicated otherwise, the in-print books can be ordered
           from most major bookstores and are also usually available
           from the following, who may also have some of the
           out-of-print items occasionally:
              o 4-M Enterprises


                           phone: (800)-487-9867
                           email: [email protected]
                           www: http://www.adognet.com/4M/welcome.html



                                 - or -

              o Amazon.com Books


                           email: [email protected]
                           www: http://www.amazon.com/



                                 - or -

              o Direct Book Service


                           phone: (800)-776-2665
                           email: [email protected]
                           www:
                           http://www2.dogandcatbooks.com/directbook/



                                 - or -

              o Dog Lover's Bookshop


                           phone: (212) 594-3601
                           email: [email protected]
                           www: http://www.dogbooks.com/



           _Books in-print / available:_
              o Non-Fiction:
                   # _The Complete Mastiff_ by Betty Baxter and David
                     Blaxter (1993) pub. by Howell Book House

                   # _The Mastiff_ by Marie Moore (1978) pub. by
                     Denlinger's Publishers

                   # _The Mastiff And Bullmastiff Handbook_ by Douglas
                     B. Oliff (1988) pub. by Howell Book House

                   # _The Mastiff Club Of America Yearbook_ pub.
                     annually by the MCOA in conjunction with the
                     National Specialty
                        @ 1991 - Tampa, FL
                        @ 1992 - White Plains, NY
                        @ 1993/1994 - F. Worth, TX / Portland, OR
                          (combined)
                        @ 1995 - Nashville, TN

                          For availability and current pricing, contact:


                                       Lavelle Knight
                                       7010 Valrie Lane
                                       Riverview, FL 33569
                                       phone: (813) 677-7991
                                       email: [email protected]


                   # _Mastiff Stud Dog Registry_ by Debora Jones -
                     updated biannually, to order send $17.50 check
                     payable to MCOA Rescue to:


                                 D. L. Jones
                                 De Vine Farm
                                 5951 Huntingtown Rd
                                 Huntingtown, MD 20639


              o Fiction:
                   # _Henry and Mudge_ (youth) by Cynthia Rylant
                     (1987-19xx) series of 14 (plus more on the way) (pb
                     & hc) pub. by Bradbury Press

                   # _The Toby Man_ by Dick King-Smith (1991) pub. by
                     Crown Publishers

           _Books out-of-print / sometimes available (usually used):_
              o Non-Fiction:
                   # _Champions, A View of the Mastiff in America_ by
                     Joan Hahn & Judy Powers (1983) pub. by The Mastiff
                     Club of America, Inc.

                   # _Grandeur and Good Nature - The Character of the
                     Mastiff_ by Joan Hahn (1992) pub. by Joan Hahn

                   # _The History and Management Of The Mastiff_ by E.
                     Baxter & P. Hoffman (198?) pub. by Scan House

                   # _History of The Mastiff_ by M. B. Wynn (1886) pub.
                     by Wm. Loxley and Melton Mowbray
                     limited edition reprint (1988) pub. by Peregrine
                     Press (500 copies)

                   # _Making Of The Modern Mastiff_ by Norman Howard
                     Carp-Gordon (1978) pub. by North & East Mastiff
                     Fanciers

              o Fiction:
                   # _Alphonse and Archibald_ by Ruth M. Collins (1953)
                     pub. by Dodd, Mead & Co.

                   # _Dog that wanted to whistle_ by Harry Levy (1940)
                     pub. by Lothrop, Lee and Shepard

                   # _Lion, the Mastiff_ by A. G. Savigny (1896) pub. by
                     William Briggs

                   # _Pilgrim and Pluck, Dogs of the Mayflower_ by
                     Arthur C. Bartlett (1936) pub. by W. A. Wilde Co.

                   # _Rab and His Friends_ by Dr. John Brown, MD (1892,
                     1902, 1909, 1927, 1970) pub. by various
        2. Publications
              o _MCOA Journal_ - quarterly magazine - $28.00 a year,
                outside US extra, back issues $10, for subscription
                information contact:


                           Mary Johnson
                           Subscription Editor
                           871 Craigville Road
                           Chester, NY 10918
                           email: [email protected]
                           www:
                           http://bigdog.geo.cornell.edu/~profiles/journ
                           al.html


              o _The Mastiff Reporter_ - bi-monthly newsletter, $10.00 a
                year, to subscribe send $10.00 check payable to Sharon
                Krauss at:


                           Sharon Krauss
                           4910 E. Emile Zola Ave.
                           Scottsdale, AZ 85254


              o Many of the Mastiff clubs listed in Appendix I also have
                their own newsletters. Contact the individual clubs for
                more information.
        3. Video / Audio
              o _Mass of Love, Joy and Pride_ - Mastiff song, cassette,
                available from 4-M Enterprises

              o _The Mastiff_ - the Official AKC video, available from
                Direct Book Service or 4-M Enterprises

              o _See Jane Train Spot_ - one hour video featuring
                Mastiffs in training, to order contact:


                           See Jane Videos
                           Box 555
                           Eaton, IN 47448


        4. Computer Programs & Databases
              o _Devine Farm Pedigree Program & Mastiff Database_ -
                Contains information on over 17,000 Mastiffs, performs
                inbreeding coefficients, relationship coefficients, can
                print up to 9 generation pedigrees, can display and
                visually analyze 5 generation pedigrees, allows queries
                against the entire database, lists descendants up to 9
                generations, lists siblings, full-siblings and can query
                against any of these lists. Runs under DOS with a
                mouse/keyboard interface, will also run under Win 3.1
                and Win95. To order, send $30 check payable to Mastiff
                Rescue to:


                           D. L. Jones
                           De Vine Farm
                           5951 Huntingtown Rd
                           Huntingtown, MD 20639


        5. Mastiffs on the Internet
             a. MCOA WWW Home Page
                 No, not yet, but we're working on it. You can, however,
                     find this FAQ at our temporary page:
                   # Mastiff Club of America -
                     http://access.mountain.net/~mmcbee/mastiff/
                     And there should also always be a permanent link to
                     this FAQ (under BREEDS) at:
                   # rec.pets.dogs FAQ Homepage -
                     http://www.zmall.com/pet_talk/dog-faqs/
             b. MCOA Member Home Pages
                   # Avalon Mastiffs -
                     http://www.angelfire.com/sc/AvalonMastiffs/index.ht
                     ml
                   # Castlemist Old English Mastiffs -
                     http://web0.tiac.net/users/mastfmom/
                   # Comstock Mastiffs -
                     http://members.aol.com/DeerRidge/index.htm
                   # De Vine Farm -
                     http://www.dclink.com/mastiff/homepage.htm
                   # Fantasy Mastiffs - http://intergrafix.com/fantasy/
                   # Grand Traverse Mastiffs -
                     http://www.mindspring.com/~carver2/
                   # Greiner Hall Mastiffs -
                     http://home.rica.net/napotnik/
                   # Kinmor Kennels -
                     http://pw1.netcom.com/~fdm1/home.html
                   # Lamars Old English Mastiffs -
                     http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Hills/2814/
                   # Lawraleigh's Mastiffs -
                     http://members.aol.com/Lawraleigh/index.html
                   # Nittany Mastiffs -
                     http://bert.cs.pitt.edu/~daley/mastiff.html
                   # Millennium Mastiffs -
                     http://www.elnet.com/~rrfarms/tim.html
                   # Povrlrd Kennels - http://www.why.net/users/parker/
                   # Willow Run Mastiffs -
                     http://www.hickory.net/willowrun/
                   # Windfall Mastiffs -
                     http://www.ohio.net/~jmcnamee/index~1.htm
             c. Other Mastiff WWW Pages
                   # Club Espanol de Molosos de Arena -
                     http://www.ctv.es/cema/
                   # Club Francais du Bullmastiff et du Mastiff -
                     http://members.aol.com/masbull/mastiff/club.htm
                   # Home Page for The Mastiff -
                     http://bert.cs.pitt.edu/~daley/mastiff.html
                   # Mastiff Club Of Victoria -
                     http://www.world.net/~mastiff
                   # Mastiff Mailing List Archives -
                     http://bigdog.geo.cornell.edu/cgi-bin/lwgate
                   # Mastiff Mailing List Member Profiles -
                     http://bigdog.geo.cornell.edu/~profiles/
                   # Mastiff Picture Page -
                     http://bigdog.geo.cornell.edu/
                   # Mastiff Rescue - Southern California -
                     http://members.aol.com/rontobin/index.htm
                   # Mastiff Stud Dog Register and Articles -
                     http://www.dclink.com/mastiff/index.htm
                   # MCOA Journal Subscription Information and Back
                     Issues -
                     http://bigdog.geo.cornell.edu/~profiles/journal.htm
                     l
                   # MCOA Rescue -
                     http://www.idsonline.com/business/djones/rescue1.ht
                     m
                   # "SHE WOULD NOT BE WHIPPED, SHE WOULD RATHER DIE" -
                     http://vi.uh.edu/pages/mintz/33.htm
             d. Mastiff Mailing list
                Matthew Kleinmann at Cornell University runs a mailing
                list for OEM's and related breeds. Although not
                affiliated with the MCOA, many of its members can be
                found among the lists 300+ subscribers. To subscribe to
                the list, send email to
                [email protected] with 'subscribe'
                in the body (leave off the quotes).
   F. _Health Tests / Certifications every Mastiff SHOULD have_
      Mastiffs, like all breeds, have problems that are genetic - i.e.,
      passed from the parents to the offspring through their genes.
      These problems range in severity from minor to major and/or life
      threatening.
      In order to do something about these problems, breeders must first
      be aware that the problems exist, then they must learn as much as
      they can about the problems, including how they are inherited. A
      number of excellent tools are available to help accomplish the
      task of reducing genetic disease in our dogs - health testing with
      registered or certified results published by various
      organizations.
      Standardized tests are the only objective and practical way to be
      sure of the health status of any dog. Keep in mind that dogs are
      not always as they appear; for example, they can be dysplastic
      without exhibiting any clinical symptoms. Dogs can also "carry"
      the genes of their relatives, not just the genes that they express
      themselves. Thus, the more relatives of a dog that are tested, the
      easier it is to evaluate the chances that that dog "carries" the
      gene(s) for a particular trait. For example, if a dog's
      full-sibling has PRA and it and its sire and dam do not, then the
      dog has a 66% chance of carrying the gene for PRA.
      Testing ALL dogs for genetic disease provides the means for
      reducing the risk of, and eventually eliminating, most genetic
      diseases. For Mastiffs, testing should be performed for hip
      dysplasia (x-ray), elbow dysplasia (x-ray), patellar luxation
      (examination), eye disease (examination), thyroid disease (blood
      draw), heart disease (examination) and von Willebrands Disease
      (vWD) (blood draw).
      While Mastiff breeders, no matter how much they test, cannot
      guarantee that their puppies will not experience these problems,
      their use of genetic testing and the breeding of only tested clear
      dogs will reduce that risk. Breeders that test all of their dogs
      and require that all puppy buyers do likewise are making a sincere
      effort to reduce the incidence of genetic disease.
      The WWW site 'Mastiff Stud Dog Register and Articles' at
      http://www.dclink.com/mastiff/index.htm contains a considerable
      body of information regarding Mastiffs and these tests.
      Additional genetic disease and testing information:
         + Eliminating Genetic Diseases in Dogs: A Buyer's Perspective
           FAQ - http://www.zmall.com/pet_talk/dog-faqs/medical-info/
         + The Dog Genome Project - http://mendel.berkeley.edu/dog.html
      TESTING / REGISTRATION / CERTIFICATION FACILITIES AND LABS
         + MCOA GDCS (Genetic Data Collection Service)


                     Constance Parker
                     GDCS Coordinator
                     PO Box 531533Grand Prairie, TX 75053-1533
                     phone: (972) 660-5113fax: (972)660-5201
                     email: [email protected]


           The MCOA offers this service to individuals and breeders who
           are interested in researching the genetic background of their
           dogs. Inclusion on the list for the various genetic tests is
           free to all Mastiff owners regardless of their membership
           status with MCOA. Updates are published quarterly in the MCOA
           Journal and a complete listing (1972 to the present) is
           available for a fee ($15 with OFA list, $10 without OFA list)
           Send request and check (payable to MCOA) to the above to
           order.
           The MCOA GDCS currently includes OFA Preliminary Hips, OFA
           Preliminary Elbows, OFA Hips, OFA Elbows, von Willebrands
           Disease, Thyroid and CERF. Passing OFA Hips, OFA Elbows, OFA
           Patellar and CERF registration are automatically included for
           all Mastiffs, contact the above for specific requirements for
           listing other results.
         + MCOA PRA Project (Progressive Retinal Atrophy)
              o West Coast Coordinator


                           Karen Flocker
                           3228 Mehrhoff Place
                           Flagstaff, AZ 86001
                           phone: (520) 779-0473fax: (520) 779-2169
                           email: [email protected]


              o East Coast Coordinator


                           Debora Jones
                           De Vine Farm
                           5951 Huntingtown RdHuntingtown, MD 20639
                           phone: (301) 855-6711
                           email: [email protected]


              o www:


                           PRA Research -
                           http://mendel.berkeley.edu/dogs/diseases/pra/
                           pramenu.html
                           James A. Baker Institute For Animal Health -
                           http://mendel.berkeley.edu/dogs/diseases/bake
                           r/baker-intro.html


           The MCOA is backing a project by the James A. Baker Institute
           For Animal Health at Cornell University to develop a DNA test
           for PRA in Mastiffs. PRA is a recessive, genetic,
           degenerative eye disease that leads to blindness. PRA
           typically cannot be detected in Mastiffs until the dog is 1
           year old, and sometimes not until the dog is over 3 years.
           The DNA test is needed to detect carriers and those afflicted
           prior to breeding, so that breeders can guarantee that their
           pups will not have PRA and PRA can be eliminated from the
           gene pool. At present the penetration of PRA into the Mastiff
           gene pool is unknown due to the lack of adequate testing
           tools and insufficient awareness of the need for, and use of,
           those tools that are available. The MCOA is administering a
           fund and soliciting donations to aid in the development of
           this test. Contact the above for more details.
         + OFA (Orthopedic Foundation for Animals, Inc.)


                     2300 E. Nifong Blvd.
                     Columbia, MO 65201-3856
                     phone: (314) 442-0418
                     fax: (314) 875-5073
                     www: http://www.offa.org/


           Reviews x-rays for hip and elbow dysplasia (will consult on
           other orthopedic conditions via x-ray), certifies patellas,
           hearts and thyroid. Publishes passing results. Dogs must be
           at least 24 months for hip and elbow certification and 12
           months for patella, thyroid and heart certification.
           Preliminary x-rays of hips and elbows can be performed on an
           evaluation basis as early as six months. Fees are required
           for submission of x-rays for certification/evaluation and
           patella/thyroid/heart for certification in addition to vet
           fees for performing of x-rays and various examinations.
           OFA requires that the examination for heart certification be
           performed by a board certified cardiologist, a vet who is
           board certified in another specialty or a vet with experience
           in diagnosing heart murmurs. If at all possible try to find a
           cardiologist.
           OFA has specific requirements for certification of thyroid
           testing and specific labs that have qualified to perform
           these specific test requirements. Thyroid certification
           through OFA is a preferred option, although not necessary,
           since a full thyroid panel will provide the necessary genetic
           data.
         + CERF (Canine Eye Registration Foundation)


                     1248 Lynn Hall
                     Purdue University
                     W. Lafayette, IN 47907
                     phone: (317) 494-8179
                     www: http://www.prodogs.com/chn/cerf/index.htm


           Certifies eyes based on examination by an ACVO (American
           College of Veterinary Ophthalmologist) diplomat (member).
           Publishes passing results. Dogs can be examined/certified at
           any age (recommend as early as possible - 8 weeks) and CERF
           recommends re-examination annually. Submission fee required
           in addition to vet fee for examination.
         + GDC (Institute for Genetic Disease Control in Animals)


                     P. O. Box 222
                     Davis, CA 95617
                     phone: (916) 756-6773
                     fax: (916) 756-6773
                     www: http://mendel.berkeley.edu/dogs/gdc.html


           Reviews x-rays for hip and elbow dysplasia (will also review
           x-rays for dysplasia of shoulders and hocks as well as
           osteochondrosis and arthrosis for all sites). Certifies eyes
           based on examination by ACVO diplomat. Certification at 12
           months of age for hips, elbows, shoulders and hocks.
           Certification of eyes same as for CERF. Reports are available
           for a fee for use by breeders, owners, prospective owners,
           breed clubs and researchers under certain rules. Reports
           include KinReport(TM) - Progeny & Sibling/half-sibling
           printout from the registries on subject dog; and Phenotype
           report on subject dog. ALL (bold, italics) results (passing
           and failing) are listed -- THIS IS AN OPEN REGISTRY. Fee for
           x-ray evaluation/certification and eye certification in
           addition to vet fees for performing x-rays or examinations.
         + MICHIGAN STATE UNIVERSITY


                     Animal Health Diagnostic Laboratory
                     P. O. Box 30076
                     Lansing, MI 48909
                     phone: (517) 353-1683
                     www:


                           http://www.ahdl.msu.edu/
                           http://www.ahdl.msu.edu/ahdl/endo.htm
                           (thyroid)

           One of major labs performing full panel for thyroid function
           (T3, T4, TT3, TT4, FT3, FT4). Recommend doing a baseline
           thyroid at 12-18 months and retest annually (see NOTE below).
         + ANTEC (formerly PAL - Professional Animal Laboratory)


                     17672-A Cowan Ave.
                     Suite 200
                     Irvine, CA 92714
                     fax: (714) 752-4935
                     phone:


                           (800) 542-1151 (CA)
                           (800) 745-4725 (outside CA)

           One of major labs performing full panel thyroid function test
           and von Willebrand test. Same as above on thyroid timing. Von
           Willebrand is a one time test which can be performed at any
           age (see NOTE below).
         + CORNELL UNIVERSITY


                     Diagnostic Laboratory
                     College of Veterinary Medicine
                     P. O. Box 5786,
                     Ithaca, NY 14852-5786
                     phone: (607) 253-3900
                     www: http://web.vet.cornell.edu/public/dl/

           One of major labs performing full panel thyroid function test
           and von Willebrand test. Same as above on thyroid and von
           Willebrand timing (see NOTE below).
      _NOTE:_ When having blood drawn for thyroid and/or von Willebrand
      testing, be sure that your dog is healthy, has not been vaccinated
      within the past two-four weeks, is not on any medication, is not
      in season (within 6-12 weeks) and has not been flea dipped or
      stressed such as from breeding. A number of things, such as those
      mentioned above, can affect the test outcome and the need for
      retesting is not unusual.
   G. _Questions To Ask a Mastiff Breeder_
      The following are offered as possible questions you should ask the
      breeder of a Mastiff puppy you are considering acquiring. The FAQ
      'Getting a Dog' contains additional, more general questions you
      may also wish to ask.
        1. Are the parents proven to be clear of the genetic problems
           discussed in Appendix F? Have the suggested tests been
           performed on the parents? What is the breadth of the testing
           - just the parents? older siblings? grandparents? aunts &
           uncles? The breeder should be willing and able to produce
           copies of all test results, at least for the parents - if not
           offered - ask for them!

           If the breeder doesn't test, ask why. Do NOT accept the
           answer that they don't test because they've never had a
           problem with something - how can they know they don't have a
           problem if they don't test? Do not accept their vet's opinion
           on hip dysplasia x-rays - a regular vet is not a trained
           radiologist - OFA uses three board certified radiologists to
           examine all x-rays.

        2. How old is the dam? How many times has she been bred? How far
           apart were the breedings? A Mastiff bitch should not be bred
           before 22 months of age nor after her 7th birthday; nor
           should her breedings, other than in exceptional cases, be
           closer together than 12 months.

        3. Why did they choose the stud dog they used? What traits were
           they looking for? What was the purpose of this breeding? What
           improvements were they after? Are the breeders planning on
           keeping a puppy from this litter? If not, why not? If yes,
           how did they pick which one? A reputable Mastiff breeder will
           have a good reason for every breeding, either to improve
           their line or solidify and continue traits they already have.
           A reputable breeder will NOT be breeding just to have puppies
           to sell.

        4. What faults do the dam and sire have? EVERY Mastiff has some
           faults. How has this breeding served to correct these faults?
           What are their good points?

        5. What breed clubs do the breeders belong to? At a minimum,
           they should belong to the MCOA and/or one of regional Mastiff
           clubs, thus exhibiting an interest in supporting the future
           and direction of the breed, as well as being willing to place
           themselves under the oversight of their peers through the
           mechanism of the clubs' Code of Ethics.

        6. Have the dam and sire been shown? Conformation showing is
           intended to identify the dogs that best fit the Mastiff
           standard; if the dogs haven't been shown, how do the breeders
           know, objectively, how well they are doing?

        7. What are the living conditions of the breeder's dogs? Do they
           have adequate living space and room to exercise? Are the
           quarters clean and well kept? Is fresh water available?

        8. What steps have the breeders taken to socialize the pups? Are
           they used to children? Other dogs? Other animals? Public
           places with lots of people? Early socialization is extremely
           important for a Mastiff; the lack of adequate socialization
           can cause serious problems later on.

        9. What are the pups being fed? Are they being given
           supplements? If so, why? Mastiff pups will eventually grow to
           their genetically programmed size, it is much better for
           their health if they do so slowly. Good, quality food is
           usually all they need.

       10. What are the terms of their contract? What guarantees do they
           offer? What conditions do they impose on your treatment and
           care of the dog? What penalties are imposed if you violate
           the terms of the contract? See Appendix C, section 4 of the
           MCOA Code of Ethics for a list of the minimum terms an MCOA
           breeder must include in their contract as well as other
           material they are required to supply to a puppy buyer.
   H. _Special Aspects of Raising a Mastiff Puppy_
      Even a small Mastiff is destined to be a large dog. This is
      something that must be taken into consideration when rearing it.
      As a puppy, your Mastiff should not be allowed to do anything that
      you would not wish your full grown Mastiff to do, such as laying
      on the couch. And because your puppy is going to be such a large
      dog, it is also a very, very good idea that it receive, at a
      minimum, basic obedience training. You DO NOT want a 200 pound dog
      that won't listen to you; this can lead to obvious problems.
      Mastiffs grow at such an astonishing rate that it is best not to
      force their growth with artificial vitamins and calcium
      supplements. A good quality dog food is all that they require. A
      Mastiff is going to get as large as it is going to be,
      genetically, anyway; allowing them to grow at their own pace will
      give them a more stable foundation once they get there. Many
      breeders recommend NOT feeding a 'puppy chow' beyond the first few
      months due to the high protein content.
      During growth periods your Mastiff puppy is subject to joint
      injury. You will need to be especially careful during these times
      to control excessive exercise. A puppy may play at its own rate
      but should not be encouraged to take long walks, jump obstacles,
      or any other exercise that will stress the joints. This is not to
      say the puppy has to be confined. Just use caution and do not
      allow it to over exert itself. After about 18 months the growth
      rate has decreased and the puppy has just about reached its full
      stature.
      A Mastiff remains a puppy much longer than most breeds. Even
      though a Mastiff is already quite large by the time it is 6 months
      old, it is still growing and maturing rapidly. A Mastiff does not
      reach its full physical or mental maturity until around 3 years of
      age.
      You will be surprised at how much a Mastiff puppy will drink.
      Fresh water should be kept available at all times. Drool will
      accumulate in the bottom of the pup's water dish. Since the pup
      will not drink its own drool, the dish should be rinsed out at
      least daily.
      All puppies love to chew. Mastiffs have very powerful jaws, even
      as a puppy. Some chew toys that are fine for other breeds may not
      be suitable for your Mastiff. Caution should be used when choosing
      toys or chew bones because the pup could bite off pieces and
      swallow them, resulting in intestinal blockage. Mastiff puppies
      also have a tendency to chew, or swallow, rocks and sticks. They
      should be watched closely and discouraged from doing so.
   I. _Mastiff Clubs & Contacts_
        1. MCOA Officers and Contacts
              o President - Joe Margraf
              o Vice President - Bob Silvaggi
              o Treasurer - Tina Copas
              o Corresponding Secretary


                           Karen McBee
                           Rt 7, Box 520
                           Fairmont, WV 26554
                           email: [email protected]

              o Recording Secretary


                           Misty Shearon
                           40510 76th Ave E
                           Eatonville 98328-9515
                           email: [email protected]

              o Directors


                           Dave Hussey
                           John Lange
                           Liz Simon
                           Open

              o MCOA AKC Delegate - Dr. William Newman
              o MCOA AKC Gazette Columnist - Joan Hahn
              o MCOA AKC Public Education Coordinator


                           Jody Greene
                           phone: (203) 966-4253
                           fax: (203) 972-0234

              o MCOA Genetic Data Collection Service Coordinator


                           Constance Parker
                           PO Box 531533
                           Grand Prairie, TX 75053-1533
                           phone: (214) 660-5113
                           email: [email protected]

              o MCOA Journal Editor


                           Kimberley Wall
                           18174 Wheeler Rd.
                           Springdale, AR 72762
                           phone: (501) 361-2980
                           email: [email protected]

              o MCOA Journal Subscription Editor


                           Mary Johnson
                           871 Craigville Road
                           Chester, NY 10918
                           email: [email protected]
                           www:
                           http://bigdog.geo.cornell.edu/~profiles/journ
                           al.html

              o MCOA Membership Chairperson (for membership information
                and application forms)


                           Marianne Jackson
                           11401 W. Winslow Ave. Rt. 2
                           Tolleson, Az. 85353
                           phone: (602) 936-8488
                           fax: (602) 936-8467
                           email: [email protected]

              o MCOA Rescue National Director - Gloria Cuthbert - (see
                Appendix D)
              o MCOA Rescue Secretary/Treasurer


                           Jill McMahon
                           4620 Durham Rd
                           Raleigh, NC 27614

              o Mastiff Information Packet includes:


                           Breed Information
                           Breeder Referral List
                           Rescue Adoption Information Packet
                           (enclose $4 check payable to MCOA to cover
                           costs)



                                 BRL - East
                                 391 Old Northfield Rd.
                                 Thomaston, CT 06787



                                       - or -


                                 BRL - West
                                 3434 W. Greenway #26-329
                                 Phoenix, AZ 85023-3877

        2. US Regional Mastiff Clubs (alphabetical by club name)
           The following contacts are constantly changing. If you find
           an error or know of one that's changed, please let the FAQ
           maintainer know.
              o Chesapeake Mastiff Club


                           Diane Spalding, Secretary
                           609 Fountain Rd.
                           Salisbury, MD 21801
                           phone: (410) 749-4912
                           fax: (410) 860-5013


              o Midwest Mastiff Fanciers


                           Melissa Prete, Secretary
                           4311 West Parker
                           Chicago, IL 60639
                           phone: (312) 252-2769
                           email: [email protected] (Tim Plezbert)


              o Mid Atlantic Mastiff Alliance


                           Sue Blickenstaff
                           3841 Turkeyfoot Rd.
                           Westminister, MD 21158
                           phone: (410) 346-6127


              o North & East Mastiff Fanciers


                           Jennifer Modica, Corresponding Secretary
                           175 Stagecoach Rd.
                           Cape May Court House, NJ 08210
                           phone: (609) 463-0534
                           fax: same
                           email: [email protected]


              o Pacific Northwest Mastiff Club


                           Judy Ropes, Secretary
                           7434 Byron St. NE
                           Olympia, WA 98506-9724
                           phone: (206) 943-6718


              o Pacific Southwest Mastiff Club


                           Betsy Harvey, Secretary
                           1018 Amber Drive
                           Santa Paula, CA 93060
                           phone: (805) 525-4980
                           email: [email protected]


              o Redwood Empire Mastiff Club


                           Kim Lupi, Secretary
                           4480 Roop Road
                           Gilroy, CA 95020
                           phone: (408) 842-1956
                           email: [email protected]


              o Rocky Mt. Mastiff Fanciers


                           Kaurie Jones, Secretary
                           11053 Chase Way
                           Broomfield, CO 80020
                           phone: (303) 466-9188


              o Southern States Mastiff Fanciers


                           Anne Heyob, Secretary
                           290 Huskey Mtn. Road
                           Lacey's Spring, AL 35754
                           phone: (205) 498-3180
                           email: [email protected]


              o Sunshine State Mastiff Fanciers


                           Vicki Hix, Secretary
                           331 31st West
                           Bradenton, FL 34205
                           phone: (813) 747-4342


              o Three Rivers Mastiff Club


                           Mary Rosa, Treasurer
                           236 Campville Rd
                           Northfield, CT 06778
                           phone: (203) 283-0616

        3. Mastiff Clubs in Other Countries (alphabetical by country)
           The following contacts are constantly changing. If you find
           an error, know of one that's changed, or are aware of a club
           we missed, please let the FAQ maintainer know.
              o AUSTRALIA
                   # Mastiff Club of Australia and New Zealand


                                 Andy Mayne, Editor
                                 Lord St. Nikenbah M/S 763
                                 Pialba Qld. 4655 Australia


                   # Mastiff Club of New South Wales


                                 Margaret Hextall, Secretary
                                 5 Idriess Place
                                 Edensor Park, NSW 2176
                                 phone: (61) 02 9823-7248


                   # Mastiff Club of Victoria


                                 Paul Simmonds, Secretary
                                 Lot 25 Wonghee Rd.
                                 Emerald, VIC 3782, Australia
                                 phone: (61) 59 683383
                                 email: [email protected]
                                 www: http://www.world.net/~mastiff


              o CANADA
                   # Canadian Mastiff Club


                                 Deborah Caron, Secretary
                                 22611 Gibson Rd. RR #2
                                 Wainfleet, ON, Canada LOS 1V0
                                 phone: (905) 899-3689
                                 email: [email protected] (Gail
                                 Baruzzini, VP)


              o DENMARK
                   # The Danish Mastiff Club


                                 Heinrik B. Pedersen
                                 Gullandsgade 2. 3. th.
                                 2300 Copenhagen S, Denmark
                                 phone: (45) 31 59 51 05


              o ENGLAND
                   # Old English Mastiff Club


                                 Mrs. J. Critoph
                                 Norwich Road
                                 West Caistor GT Yarmouth, England NR30
                                 5SLJ


                   # The Mastiff Association


                                 Mr. P. J. Sargent
                                 111 Lyttelton Rd.
                                 Stechford Birminghamn, England B33 8BN


              o FINLAND
                   # Association of Finnish Bullmastiff & Mastiffs


                                 Tuija Sorthan Kauriinrinne
                                 13 I 29 01480 VANTAA, Finland
                                 phone: 358 - 09 - 851 3757


              o FRANCE
                   # Club Francais du Bullmastiff et du Mastiff


                                 Anne Marie Class, Presidente
                                 35 rue des Pres Vendome
                                 78450 VILLEPREUX, France
                                 phone: 33 01 34 62 46 53
                                 fax: 33 01 30 56 07 80
                                 email: [email protected]
                                 web:
                                 http://members.aol.com/masbull/mastiff/
                                 club.htm


              o GERMANY
                   # Club fuer Molosser e.v.


                                 Walter Weiss
                                 Vagantenhof-Schoenberg
                                 82544 Egling, Germany
                                 phone: (49) 8170 7824
                                 fax: (49) 8170 9133


                   # The German Mastiff Club


                                 Monika Reinhard, Secretary
                                 Hirzenhain-Bahnhof, Habichstrasse 29
                                 35713 Eschenburg, Germany
                                 phone: 0 27 70/26 20


                   # Old English Mastiff Club Deutchland e.v.


                                 Frau Ingid Rau
                                 Saarbruckersrt 18
                                 6601 Riegelsberg, Germany
                                 phone: (49 ) 6806 46069


              o NETHERLANDS
                   # Old English Mastiff Club Nederland


                                 Hans Rosingh
                                 Van Lierswijk 7
                                 9421 TH Bovensmilde, The Netherlands
                                 phone: (31) 592-412337


              o NEW ZEALAND (see also AUSTRALIA)
                   # All Breeds Mastiff Club


                                 Joanne Franklin, President
                                 125 Viponds Road
                                 Hibiscus Bay, New Zealand


              o NORWAY
                   # Norsk Engelsk Mastiff Klubb


                                 Kare Konradsen, President
                                 Seierstenasen
                                 1433 Vinterbro
                                 phone: (47) 64 97 71 62
                                 email: [email protected]


              o PORTUGAL
                   # Associacao Portuguesa Dos Caes de Tip Molossoide


                                 (forming-1997?)


              o SOUTH AFRICA
                   # Bullmastiff Club of South Africa


                                 (All Mastiff breeds)
                                 P.O. Box 4885
                                 Randburg 2125, South Africa


              o SPAIN
                   # Club Espanol de Molosos de Arena


                                 P.O. Box 175
                                 28400 Collado Villaba
                                 Madrid, Spain
                                 phone: (34) 1 8511406
                                 email: [email protected]
                                 web: http://www.ctv.es/cema/


              o SWEDEN
                   # Bullmastiff-och Mastiffvannera


                                 Kristina Vakkala, President
                                 P1 1086 A
                                 635 09 Eskilstuna, Sweden
                                 phone: (46) 016-35 35 98


   J. _Mastiff Varieties and Internet References_
         + Bullmastiff
              o American Bullmastiff Association -
                http://www.akc.org/clubs/aba/
              o Bullmastiff Fanciers Of Canada -
                http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1300/
              o Dansk Bullmastiff Klub - http://www.kyed.com/dbk/
              o Bullmastiff Breed FAQ -
                http://www.zmall.com/pet_talk/dog-faqs/breeds/
         + Cane Corso (Sicilian Mastiff)

         + Dogo Argentino (Argentine Mastiff)

         + Dogue de Bordeaux (French Mastiff)
              o Dogue de Bordeaux Society -
                http://members.aol.com/ddbsociety/DDBS/index.html
              o United States Bordeaux Corporation -
                http://www.usbc.mel.net/
         + Fila Brasileiro (Brazilian Mastiff)
              o Fila Brasileiro Club of America -
                http://www.idis.com/FBCA/index.htm
              o FILANET - http://dt.fee.unicamp.br/~amaury/filanet.html
         + Mastin Del Pirineo (Pyrenean Mastiff)
              o Pyrenean Mastiff Club of America -
                http://www.oicu2.com/mastiff/
              o Razas Espanolas -
                http://www.gae.unican.es/general/dogs/breeds/spain/espan
                olas.html
         + Mastin Espanol (Spanish Mastiff)
              o Razas Espanolas -
                http://www.gae.unican.es/general/dogs/breeds/spain/espan
                olas.html
         + Neapolitan Mastiff (Italian Mastiff)
              o American Neapolitan Mastiff Association -
                http://home.aol.com/ANMA1
              o National Board of Italian Cynophiles -
                http://www.cta.it/enci.htm
              o United States Neapolitan Mastiff Club -
                http://www.neapolitan.org/
              o Neapolitan Breed FAQ -
                http://www.zmall.com/pet_talk/dog-faqs/breeds/
         + Perro de Presa Canario (Canary Island Dog)
              o Razas Espanolas -
                http://www.gae.unican.es/general/dogs/breeds/spain/espan
                olas.html
         + St. Bernard
              o Saint Bernard Club of America -
                http://www.akc.org/clubs/saints/
              o Saint Bernard Breed FAQ -
                http://www.zmall.com/pet_talk/dog-faqs/breeds/
         + Tibetan Mastiff
              o Tibetan Mastiff Association of America -
                http://www.tibetanmastiffs.com/index.html
         + Tosa Inu (Japanese Mastiff)
        _____________________________________________________________

      Mastiff FAQ
      Mike McBee, [email protected]

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