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There are nearly 100 FAQ's available for this group. For a complete
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==========

Old English Sheepdogs

_Authors:_

* Kyosti Kulusjarvi [[email protected]] Oulu, FINLAND
* Ray Charette [[email protected]]

Contributors

* Peggy Anderson [[email protected]]
* Denise Humphries [[email protected]]
* Joel Levinson [[email protected]]
* Aimee Baird Pharr [[email protected]]

Thanks to:
Fiona Cheeseman, Ann Freelander, Caj Haakansson, Sharon Hope,
Marlyn Isaac, Rhonda Paprocki, Dirk Pfeifer, Ray Salmon,
Lorraine Walsh, Paula Wheeler, Melisande Wolf, the Old English
Sheepdog Club of America, the New England Old English Sheepdog
Club for use of their Information Pamphlet, and probably many
others to whom we apologize for not including.

And special thanks to Cindy Tittle Moore [[email protected]], not
only for her contribution to the FAQ, but also for making this
document available to the public.

The authors welcome any comments or suggestions you may have. If you
would like to see something added or changed, please send e-mail to
Aimee B. Pharr [[email protected]].

Copyright 1995-1996 by the Authors.

_________________________________________________________________

_IN MEMORY OF CAJ HAAKANSS0N
19TH JUNE 1944 - 1ST JANUARY 1996_

Friend, breeder and judge of the Bobtailed sheepdog

Respected worldwide for his dedication to the Old English Sheepdog and
his success as the breeder of over 55 Bahlambs Champions in the United
States, with many others overseas.

Caj's support will be sadly missed by the OES-L members.

At peace with his many great Bobtails, including Int. Ch. Prospect
Shaggy Boy, Ch. Unnesta Pim and Ch. Millie.
_________________________________________________________________

Revision History

Created 29-Dec-1994 by Kyosti Kulusjarvi

Modified 25-Mar-1995 by Kulusjarvi, Charette, and Pharr
Reformatted, edited, and added sections on Characteristics and
Temperament, Grooming and Coat Care, Obedience, Herding,
Australia Breed Standard, and Online Information.

Modified 03-Jan-1996 by Pharr and Humphries
Reformatted and updated Breed and Rescue Contacts and Online
Information.

Modified 30-Apr-1996 by Pharr
Removed Breed Clubs and Rescue Contacts and updated Books and
Online Information.

_________________________________________________________________

Table of Contents

* History of the Breed
* The Breed Standard
+ American
+ Australian
+ British and European
* Characteristics and Temperament
* Grooming and Coat Care
* Obedience Training
* Herding
* Special Medical Problems
* Frequently Asked Questions
+ Does the OES require a lot of grooming?
+ Does the OES shed?
+ What happened to the tail?
+ Does the OES eat a lot?
+ Is the OES protective of the home and family?
+ How much exercise does the OES require?
+ Does the OES drool?
* Books
* Breed Clubs and Rescue Contacts
* Online Information

_________________________________________________________________

History of the Breed

The origin of the Old English Sheepdog remains a question of keen
interest to Bobtail fanciers, and is still open to new theories and
discoveries. However, there are traces of evidence which place its
origin in the early nineteenth century, centered in the Southwestern
Counties of England. Some maintain that the Scottish BeardedCollie had
a large part in the making of the Old English Sheepdog. Others claim
the Russian Owtchar as one of its progenitors.

Writings of that time refer to a "drover's dog" which was used
primarily for driving sheep and cattle to market. It is speculated
that these drover's dogs were exempt from taxes due to their working
status. To prove their occupation, their tails were docked, leading to
the custom of calling the sheepdog by the nickname "Bob" or "Bobtail".
Although this dog has been used more for driving than for herding, the
lack of a tail to serve as a rudder, so to speak, has in no way
affected its ability to work with heavier kinds of sheep or cattle.

_return to table of contents_
_________________________________________________________________

The Breed Standard

The Standard is the physical "blueprint" of the breed. It describes
the physical appearance and other desired qualities of the breed
otherwise known as _type_. Some characteristics, such as size, coat
quality, and movement, are based on the original (or current) function
for the dog. Other characteristics are more cosmetic such as eye
color; but taken together they set this breed apart from all others.
The Standard describes an _ideal_ representive of the breed. No
individual dog is perfect, but the Standard provides an ideal for the
breeder to strive towards.

American

Because of copyright concerns over the collection of all the Standards
at any single site storing all the faqs, AKC Standards are not
typically included in the Breed faqs. The reader is referred to the
publications at the end of this document or to the National Breed Club
for a copy of the Standard.

Australian

_General Appearance:_ A strong compact looking dog of great symmetry;
absolutely free of legginess; profusely coated all over. All round he
is a thick-set muscular able-bodied dog, with a most intelligent
expression; free of all Poodle or Deerhound characteristics.

_Characteristics:_ The dog stands lower at the shoulder than the loin.
When walking or trotting has a characteristic ambling or pacing
movement. His bark should be loud with a peculiar "pot-casse" ring in
it.

Copyright by Australian National Kennel Control

For the complete Australian Breed Standard, please refer to the
Official OES Web Page under The Breed Standard-Australian.

British and European

_General Appearance:_ Strong, square looking dog of great symmetry and
overall soundness. Absolutely free of legginess, profusely coated all
over. A thick-set, muscular, able-bodied dog with a most intelligent
expression. The natural outline should not be artificially changed by
scissoring or clipping.

_Characteristics:_ Of great stamina, exhibiting a gently rising
topline, and a pear- shaped body when viewed from above. The gait has
a typical roll when ambling or walking. Bark has a distinctive toned
quality.

Copyright by The English Kennel Club, 1986

For the complete British/European Breed Standard, please refer to the
Official OES Web Page under The Breed Standard-British and European.

_return to table of contents_
_________________________________________________________________

Characteristics and Temperament

The Old English Sheepdog is a playful, affectionate, fun-loving
"clown," who delights in frolicking with his family and neighborhood
children. In fact, adolescence in the OES often extends to
approximately age three and your adult OES will retain his playful
demeanor well into his golden years.

An intelligent breed, the OES is a quick learner, always looking for
something interesting and fun to do. OES are capable of performing
numerous tasks - herding, agility, obedience trials, and search and
rescue. This breed requires significant physical exercise as well as
mental exercise. If your pup does not receive enough of either, you
may come home to find the mischief he has so enjoyed in your absence.

A properly bred OES will be good-natured and kind and this is what
makes the OES an excellent children's companion and great family dog.
An old description of the breed refers to the OES as a "Nanny." This
term of endearment arose because of numerous stories surrounding the
role of the OES in the family. Some have said that the OES will
supervise a young child by insuring that the child will remain in a
particular area by herding him into it. Others have described the OES
who acts as a means of support to the toddler learning to walk.
Although the OES is excellent with children, it is extremely important
to note that children should never be left unsupervised with any dog,
regardless of breed or temperament.

When considering owning an OES, you must remember the two biggest
requirements of the breed: grooming and exercise. If you cannot commit
to both of these, you may want to consider another one of the many
wonderful breeds available.

_return to table of contents_
_________________________________________________________________

Grooming and Coat Care

To properly maintain your dog's coat you will need some basic grooming
supplies. These include a good quality steel pin brush, coarse steel
comb, soft slicker brush, nail clippers, a good pair of trimming
scissors, and a hemostat (to remove the hair from inside the ears). A
grooming table will make your job a lot easier and prevent your back
from aching. Once you have the proper equipment, you need to learn the
correct method of brushing. A young puppy needs very little grooming.
However, this is the time to teach him to lie on the table and stay
still while you brush.

Weekly grooming is very important to keep a coat in good condition. By
8 or 9 months of age you will start finding mats if the coat is not
brushed through. Mats can lead to serious skin problems and are most
uncomfortable for your dog.

To groom your dog, position him on his side on the grooming table.
Using your pin brush start at the withers and brush against the grain
of the hair so that you can see the skin. Brush in a line, a few hairs
at a time, always getting down to the skin. Remember this is a double
coat consisting of a soft undercoat and a coarse outer coat. Correct
brushing lifts and fluffs as the brush removes loose undercoat and
debris out to the end of the hair. Correct brushing should be a slow
and gentle motion to avoid pulling out too much coat. A great hint to
prevent the coat from splitting: lightly spray the dog's coat with
water or hair conditioner before brushing!

Once you have a line the length of the dog, go back and start a little
further with a new line; again getting down to the skin. Continue
until the side is complete. Now, brush the legs, starting at the foot
and brushing in the direction of coat growth. Use the comb for more
difficult areas. Use the slicker brush to groom the ears and muzzle,
etc., and to fluff the legs. Once finished, stand the dog on the table
and trim the coat on the feet so that it is even, and just touches the
table. Use your scissors to trim between the pads and to trim the
rear.

Mats are the biggest problem with an OES coat. If your dog's coat is
not kept up, he will become matted to the skin and you will have to
shave or clip him. The coat tends to mat when changing from puppy to
adult coat. Once the adult coat has emerged, you will find regular
grooming will keep your dog from matting. When you find a mat,
separate it with your fingers and then comb the hair a little at a
time until it begins to come apart. Continue with the same technique
of pulling the mat apart and combing a little more until the mat is
removed. Remember, you must get down to the skin and remove all clumps
of hair. A dog that is matted can take hours to properly groom.
Patience and a positive attitude are also essential in caring for a
dog with a matted coat. Separating a small portion of a mat and
working on one area at a time will get the job done.

There is no easy way to remove excessive mats from a sheepdog, but you
will feel a great sense of accomplishment when your dog is groomed and
mat-free. A coat long-neglected results in a dog that is an unsightly
mess and that can become infected with parasites and skin infections.
In cases of severe neglect the coat must be shaved and the dog bathed,
so the skin can be evaluated.

Remember, removing mats from your dog will take a lot of time. The OES
who is having mats removed from his coat is not feeling comfortable
about this process either. If you can not finish after a few hours,
take a break and return when rested. It will benefit the both of you!

_return to table of contents_
_________________________________________________________________

Obedience Training

Obedience training is encouraged for all dogs, but especially for a
large breed like the OES. The basic commands - sit, down, come and
stay - are important for everyday living with any dog, but add a wet
and muddy coat and believe me, these commands become crucial for
survival.

Basic obedience training can start when the puppy is first brought
home. Don't wait until the dog is six months old or you may have a lot
more work on your hands! A small piece of food held just-so over the
pup's head and a light push on the rear while you say "sit" will
achieve the result you want. The food will help ingrain in the puppy's
fully developed brain what the word "sit" means. To teach "down,"
place a piece of food on the floor between the pup's front paws and
pull forward while gently pushing down on the shoulders and
simultaneously saying "down." To teach "come," one member of the
household calls the puppy with a treat as a reward and then another
person calls the puppy back again. This will teach a nice, fast
response.

Puppy basics is where it all begins! Even the older sheepdog can learn
by this method of training. Old English Sheepdogs are very intelligent
and learn quickly. They can be excellent obedience dogs for
competition, but be wary that once they know an exercise, they are
always looking for a way to make it more interesting!

_return to table of contents_
_________________________________________________________________

Herding

The Old English Sheepdog has a tradition in herding livestock going
back to its origins. The breed was originally used to move livestock
down the country road to market. This would generally be done with the
dog (or dogs, depending on the amount of livestock) at the back or
side of the stock. Unfortunately, today there are few OES that are
used for this purpose. However, it is possible to find people that
enjoy herding.

Herding can be a fun activity for both you and your dog. Most OES love
the activity and the exercise. They greatly enjoy moving the sheep
around from place to place. Herding is an activity that creates a very
special bond between you and your dog. It takes what one might
consider normal bonding to another level, especially when the dog
seems to realize that this is what hundreds of years of breeding was
meant for.

OES have two different herding styles. Neither is more acceptable than
the other. Some dogs are natural drivers, moving the stock away from
the handler, while others are natural fetchers, taking the stock to
the handler. The important thing is to encourage the dog to do
whatever comes naturally. In the early stages of training, don't try
to make the dog do anything that isn't natural. Later, your dog can be
trained to do many kinds of tasks.

To get started in herding, find someone who is experienced with dogs
and livestock so he or she can help you introduce your OES to the
stock. Sheep are the best stock for this purpose. It is not
recommended to put a green dog on cattle, and ducks might be too
small.The introduction is best done in a small pen, generally 80' x
80' at most in size. With a small pen, the situation will be better
under your control. It may be tentative at first - your dog has to
figure out what to do. Once he does, he will generally take off
running after the sheep! Don't be discouraged if your dog does not
'turn on' the first time he or she sees stock. Some dogs, including
OES, need several exposures to start working. In fact, the currently
top ranked OES in the AKC herding trial program didn't "turn on" to
livestock until his tenth exposure!

What can you do with this hobby? First and foremost, HAVE FUN! It is
an activity that can be exciting and rewarding for both dog and owner.
In addition, there are several different trial programs that offer
herding performance titles to people with herding breeds:

* _American Kennel Club:_ The AKC has a test and trial title program
available, with five different titles and six different levels.
Each level requires more difficult work. The levels and titles
are: HT: Herding Tested, PT: Pre Trial, HS: Herding Started, HI:
Herding Intermediate, HX: Herding Advanced, and H.CH: Herding
Champion.
* _American Herding Breed Association:_ The AHBA also offers tests,
trials and titles. They are: HCT: Herding Capability Tested, JHD:
Junior Herding Dog, HTD-I: Herding Trial Dog, level I (Started),
HTD-II: Herding Trial Dog, level II (Intermediate), and HTD-III:
Herding Trial Dog, level III (Advanced).
* _Australian Shepherd Club of America:_ The ASCA offers the
following trials and titles as well: STD: Started Trial Dog, OTD:
Open Trial Dog, ATD: Advanced Trial Dog, and RD: Ranch Dog.

A herding trial is basically an obstacle course set up with a series
of chutes, pens and panels through which you and your dog take the
stock. Most of the time, sheep is the preferred stock. However, cattle
and ducks are also used.

Trials are a great and fun way to test what you have done in training.
They can also be an exciting way to spend time with other people who
love doing the same thing - herding, no matter what the breed!

_return to table of contents_
_________________________________________________________________

Special Medical Problems

_Hip dysplasia_ is a problem in the breed and can be crippling for a
dog of this size. It is highly advisable to purchase a puppy from a
breeder who has received X-ray certification for the joints (hips and
elbows) of both parents. In the United States, the Orthopedic
Foundation for Animals (OFA), a well known and respected registry,
will evaluate the X-rays of dogs and will provide certification for
dogs, who are at least 24 months of age. In other countries, it is
usually the official kennel clubs who provide similar certification.

_Hereditary Cataract_ and _Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA)_ are two
eye conditions, which are sadly being found in increasing numbers.
Before buying a puppy, check that the parent's eyes have been checked
for PRA. This can only be done by a qualified ophthalmologist who
completes an electroretinography on both dogs. Additionally, as PRA
can appear later in life (as late as 8 years), it is important to
verify that the breeder has cleared all dogs' eyes annually, including
those that are no longer being bred.

While _Thyroid disorders_ are not unique to the OES, there is a fairly
high incidence of thyroid disease in the breed. Some of the signs of
thyroid disease include (but are not limited to) poor coat, either in
length or brittleness of the fur, and excess lethargy. If you suspect
a thyroid problem, take your OES to the vet! Diagnosis can be made via
a simple blood panel. Most vets will complete a T4. This test is
adequate, but not conclusive. The Michigan State University (MSU)
Animal Health Diagnostic Lab in Lansing, Michigan, USA performs the
most complete work-up. If your vet is not familiar with this
procedure, the phone number for the Diagnostic Lab is (517) 353-1683.
To keep costs down, some areas offer ThyroidClinics so that dogs may
be tested and blood work may be sent to MSU in bulk. If your dog is
diagnosed with thyroid disease, it is simple to treat. Treatment
consists of daily medication, generally for the life of the dog. The
food additive, sea kelp, is also helpful. This may be found in a
product by Solid Gold, called Seameal which may be sprinkled on your
OES's food. Once diagnosed, your dog's thyroid levels should be
rechecked yearly.

For more information on any of these problems, please refer to the
FAQs entitled Canine Medical Information, Part I and Canine Medical
Information Part 2, written and maintained by Cindy Tittle Moore.

_return to table of contents_
_________________________________________________________________

Frequently Asked Questions

Does the OES require a lot of grooming?

Does the OES shed?

What happened to the tail?

Does the OES eat a lot?

Is the OES protective of the home and family?

How much exercise does the OES require?

Does the OES drool?

Does the OES require a lot of grooming?

Yes. Yes. Yes. When showing or growing out the initial puppy coat,
daily grooming is an absolute necessity to avoid mats and tangles. If
you do not plan to show your OES, a weekly grooming session, taking a
couple of hours, is satisfactory. For more detailed information on
grooming, refer to the section entitled Grooming and Coat Care. If you
are not ready for a lot of grooming, you may want to consider another
breed.

Does the OES shed?

With daily/weekly grooming sessions, most of the loose hair will be
removed by the brush. The OES is not considered a "shedding breed" as
it maintains its dense coat throughout the year. The little hair that
is shed is relatively easy to remove from carpeting and clothing, more
so than the short prickly hairs of some of the shorter coated breeds
(e.g., Dalmatians).

What happened to the tail?

As mentioned in the breed standard, the tail is usually docked a few
days after birth. Dogs are not customarily shown with any more than a
bob at most. In fact, as late as the 20th century, breeders began
reporting the birth of tail-less pups. In the United States it is
difficult to find a breeder who will not dock the tails. However, some
countries, like Sweden, prohibit docking. In European dog shows, OES
with tails are as equally acceptable as those without.

Historically, the docked tail has given a nickname to the breed:
_Bobtail._

Does the OES eat a lot?

During their first year, OES grow from about one pound (500g) to about
sixty pounds (30kg). When fully grown, they will often weigh between
70 to 110 lbs. (30-50 kg). Consequently, OES require plenty of food to
support that growth. Once they reach adulthood, however, they have a
very low metabolism and do not eat a lot. Of course, the amount of
food consumed varies significantly depending upon level of exercise,
individual variation, and climate. Overfeeding an OES is easy to do
because the profuse coat readily hides extra pounds. It is extremely
important that you check your dog's weight regularly.

Is the OES protective of the home and family?

Some are and some are not. Of course, the sheer size of the OES and
the barking he will provide is protective in and of itself. However,
many OES have been known to welcome friends and strangers alike into
the home. If you are specifically looking for a guard dog, you may
want to consider another breed.

How much exercise does the OES require?

Because of its herding origins, an OES should be exercised regularly.
The amount of exercise required will vary depending upon the dog's
age. Puppies have a lot of energy, so much so that they will use it to
destroy your home if they do not have daily outlets. On the other
hand, aging dogs often prefer to lay on the couch and will need
substantially less exercise. Between those extremes, 1-2 hours of
daily exercise should be sufficient. It is important to note that the
OES can readily adjust to less exercise, but this is not particularly
healthy for him.

OES are very capable participants in sheep herding and agility trials,
both of which demand a healthy and physically fit dog. The amount of
daily exercise is really left to the owner's discretion. Be sure to
adjust your dog's food intake to the amount of exercise he receives.

Finally, DO NOT exercise your OES when the weather is hot. Their dense
undercoat is extremely warm and the dog can get overheated easily and
quickly. One way to exercise your OES when it is too hot is to
exercise his mind. Searching for a toy, playing hide and seek, opening
boxes to find goodies within, and teaching him new tricks are all
favorite pastimes.

Does the OES drool?

Some do and some do not. Some will drool so much that the coat under
their mouth turns yellow. If this happens, a regular washing,
especially after meals, will help. Another method in keeping a
"wet-beard" dry, is to apply cornstarch to the beard. Once the
cornstarch has completely dried, brush it out. Also, this works well
when an OES has diarrhea.

Even though your OES may drool, it will not be as big of a problem as
it is with the St. Bernard or Newfoundland.

_return to table of contents_
_________________________________________________________________

Books

Berkowitz, Mona. (1967). _How to Raise and Train an Old English
Sheepdog._ TFH Publications: Neptune, N.J. A small booklet by a
long-time breeder, exhibitor, and judge. A new printing is currently
available.

Boyer, Alice J. (1978). _Your Old English Sheepdog._ Dentinger's:
Fairfax, VA Hardback, illus., 160 pages.

Brearley, Joan McDonald. (1989). _The Old English Sheepdog._ TFH
Publications: Neptune, N.J. ISBN 0-86622-710-5. An update to the 1974
publication by Brearley and Anderson, it contains some interesting
photos of the early days of the breed in the United States.

Carriere, Monique. (1993). _Care and Grooming of Old English
Sheepdogs._ Best Read Books Ltd.: Ottawa, Ontario CANADA. ISBN
0-9693044-1-2. This book contains a wealth of information on the OES,
from the history of the breed to every aspect of choosing, purchasing
and training a puppy. It also offers sections on bathing, grooming,
breeding and dog health. Very complete. 172 pages.

Davis, Ann. (1973). _The Old English Sheepdog._ Howell Book House: New
York. Mrs. Davis is an English breeder and judge. Her book includes
some information on American dogs and breeders as well. Limited number
of illustrations. 166 pages plus index.

Gould, Jean. (1988). _All About the Old English Sheepdog._ Pelham
Books (Penguin Group): London, England. ISBN 0-7207-1809-0. Although a
bit outdated now, this book contains some good information on choosing
a puppy, conformation, and grooming. There are some photos of well
known dogs and pedigrees that might be of interest to owners tracing
their pedigrees back. Also a chapter on spinning OES wool for the
really keen.

Hampden Edwards, George. (1977). _Old English Sheepdogs in Australia_.
Wentworth Books: Sydney, Australia. Hardcover. Contains references to
selected OES in Australia and many unscientific theories on health
care. Illustrations are scaper board drawings by the author. 166
pages.

Hopwood, Aubrey. (1905). _The Old English Sheepdog from Puppyhood to
Championship_. Bickers & Son: UK. Hardcover. An early work on the
breed (published late last centruy or early this century) which has
become an important reference for those interested in history.
Describes the origins of the OES as a working dog. Collector's item.
106 pages, 31 illustrations.

Keeling, Jill. (1975). _The Old English Sheepdog._ Arco-Foyles
Handbooks: New York, Revised Ed. Older editions may still be found.
Originally published by Foyles Handbooks of London in 1961.

Mandeville, John. (1976). _The Complete Old English Sheepdog._ Howell
Book House: New York. Especially valuable for its wealth of detail
about the early-day dogs and breeders in the U.S. Photos included. 287
pages.

Mogford, Gwen. (1985). _My Inheritance_. Bernard Kaymar Ltd.: Preston,
UK. Softcover/Illus. An historical record of the OES, containing many
photographs of OES from the last century and pre WWII. Also presents
show critiques and information on early breeders and kennels. 324
pages.

Muller, Barbara._Bobtail Old English Sheepdog. Hunderessen Urs
Ochsenbein_ Written by a well known Swiss breeder. Includes
photographs of European, and overseas OES. A knowledge of German or
Swiss would help enjoyment of this book

Pisano, Beverly. (1980). _Old English Sheepdogs._ TFH Publications:
Neptune, N.J. ISBN 0-87666-723-X. A hardback book of 125 pages with
basic comments about ownership and showing of the Bobtail.

Schneider, Earl (ed.). _Know Your Old English Sheepdog._ The Pet
Library LTD: New York. Year of publication not identified, but this
would have been from the late 1960's. A small booklet, interesting
mostly for its color photographs. It belongs in a "complete"
collection, but is too small to provide much detail or practical help.

Smith, Christina. (1993). _The Complete Old English Sheepdog._ Howell
Book House: New York. ISBN 0-87605-223-5. A hardback which contains
valuable information on all aspects of owning an OES. Also included is
a listing of important and well known kennels in the U.S., Great
Britain, Australia, Scandinavia, and the rest of Europe. 176 pages
with numerous black and white photos.

Tilley, Henry Arthur. (1972). _The Old English Sheepdog_. This book
was originally published in hardcover in the early 1930s, but was
privately reprinted by Florence Tilley as a softcover in 1972. The
hardcover is now considered a collector's item. Contains information
on care, breeding and bloodlines. The author is well-known for his
Shepton Kennels. 100 pages, 15 photographs of early OES.

Woods, Sylvia and Owens, R. (1981). _Old English Sheepdogs._ Faber and
Faber: London, England. A hardback British publication, this book
allows the reader a chance to review the breed from the English point
of view. 240 pages.

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Breed Clubs and Rescue Contacts

For information on Breed Clubs and Rescue Contacts, please refer to
the Official OES Web Page, under Breed and Rescue Contacts.

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Online Information

OES FAQ

The latest version of this html document is available on the Web:
http://www.zmall.com/dogs-faq/breeds/oes.html. This file is also
posted regularly to the USENET group rec.pets.dogs.info or is
available via anonymous ftp to rtfm.mit.edu in the directory
pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/breeds.

OES Mailing List

OES-L is a free electronic mailing list for those who have an interest
in the Old English Sheepdog. With subscribers from ten countries,
OES-L is a fun way to learn about the international Bobtail! Come join
us!

To subscribe, send an e-mail to [email protected]. Leave
the subject line blank and in the body of the message type: SUBSCRIBE
OES-L Your Name

Then, just follow the directions! Soon you will be talking with other
OES owners from around the world! If you have any questions or
comments, please e-mail Aimee B. Pharr [[email protected]], List
Administrator and Co-Owner of OES-L.

OES Official Web Page

In addition to the information contained in the OES FAQ, this web page
includes an up-to-date list of International Breed Clubs and Rescue
Contacts, the Breed Standards for Australia, England and Europe, OES
Pictures and Products on the web and more! This page is maintained by
Denise Humphries [[email protected]] and is located at
http://www.wwwins.net.au/dog/OES/menu.html.

Other Web-related dog information

For information on many other aspects of dog ownership, other breed
FAQs, and other fun material, check out the rec.pets.dogs home page,
currently maintained by Cindy Tittle Moore at
http://www.zmall.com/dogs-faq/homepage.html.

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The Old English Sheepdog FAQ
Aimee B. Pharr, [[email protected]]