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=======
There are nearly 100 FAQ's available for this group.  For a complete
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This article is Copyright 1996 by the Author(s) listed below.
It may be freely distributed on the Internet in its entirety without
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==========


German Shepherd Dogs

  Created: 2 Oct 1994

  Modified: 13 May 1997

  Previous: 13 Apr 1997

  _Acknowledgements_

  This FAQ was developed by Holly ([email protected]) (hs) with the
  assistance of (alphabetical by last name though last names have been
  omitted to protect the privacy of the contributor):
    * Marianne ([email protected]) (mc)
    * Katharine ([email protected]) (kc)
    * Mary (also kc)
    * Gareth ([email protected]) (gd)
    * Amy ([email protected]) (ah)
    * Victoria ([email protected]) (vj)
    * Craig ([email protected]) (cm)
    * Jan ([email protected]) (jm)
    * Lily ([email protected]) (lm)
    * Robin ([email protected]) (rn)
    * Dori ([email protected]) (dp)

  The initials of contributors are included in each section, though the
  contributions may have undergone editing. They have my gratitude.

  Thanks also to Cindy for her invaluable help.

  If you have a suggestion, submission or comment regarding this FAQ,
  please send e-mail to [email protected]

  Standard Disclaimer: I have done the best and most complete job I
  could in this FAQ. I admit a bias to AKC and American standards since
  that's what I'm most familiar with. I do not profess to be
  all-knowledgeable wrt to GSDs (or anything else for that matter! :-).
  Your mileage may vary. No warranty is expressed or implied. -Holly

  Copyright (c) 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997 by Holly Lee Stowe

  Sections Copyright (c) 1995 by OFA (please contact Robin Nuttall for
  redistribution)

  This article may be freely distributed in its entirety provided that
  copyright notice is not removed with the exception of the section on
  OFA which is copyrighted by the OFA. It may not be sold for profit nor
  incorporated in whole or in part in any other document without the
  author's written permission.

  Explicit permission is hereby granted to all humane shelters, animal
  shelters, city pounds and rescue organizations placing animals to
  redistribute the material under the conditions above.

  Those sites wishing to reference this document through the web or
  other means via the internet must set references to point to the
  original copy at _http://www.cluebus.com/holly/gsdfaq.html_ unless
  given explicit written permission by the author and copyright holder.

                            _________________

  In memory of and dedicated to:
  Heidi (13 Aug 1957 - 17 Nov 1970)
  Bompsey (the Bomps, "Sweep of Birch Point") (19 May 1971 - 2 Feb 1980)
  Amanda ("Holly's Eager Beaver Amanda") (24 Mar 1980 - 14 Dec 1993)
  Sebastian ("Holly's Bashful Sebastian") (6 Apr 1980 - 13 Sep 1993)
  Winter ("Winterabend vom Erste Freund") (24 Nov 1993 - )
  Yuno ("Yuno Who von Erste Freund") (9 Jul 1994 - )
  and our "honorary" German Shepherds:
  Abbie (Irish Setter) and Chloe (20 Aug 1993 - ) (Chow-ador-atian)

    _________________________________________________________________

 Table of Contents

    * Introduction
    * Questions
         + Do German Shepherds make good family pets?
         + What traits are inherent in German Shepherds?
         + What should I look for in a German Shepherd puppy?
         + Can my breeder guarantee my puppy will not have hip problems?
         + Should I get a male or female puppy?
         + How old should my puppy be when it goes home?
         + How big will my German Shepherd be?
         + What is "socializing" and why is it important?
         + When will my puppy's ears stand?
         + What precautions should I take with my puppy?
         + When should I switch my puppy to adult food?
         + How often should I feed my puppy and how much?
         + What is bloat (gastric torsion)?
         + What is the life expectancy of a German Shepherd?
         + Should I get American or German bloodlines?
         + Do German Shepherds shed a lot?
         + What about long-coated Germans Shepherds?
         + Are German Shepherds smart and easy to train?
         + My adolescent German Shepherd is limping! What should I do?
         + What is a "gay tail"?
         + What do German Shepherds have a reputation of being vicious?
         + Why is a white German Shepherd disqualified from the show
           ring?
         + What is an average size litter?
         + What is the difference between a German Shepherd and an
           Alsatian?
         + Why is the word "dog" used in the breed name?
         + What is Schutzhund?
         + Is there a club for German Shepherds?
         + Is there a mailing list for German Shepherds?
    * Finding Your New GSD
    * What Questions Should I Ask a Breeder?/What if I Want to Breed My
      GSD?
      (currently in a separate document)
    * Your New GSD Puppy at Home
    * History of the German Shepherd Dog
    * German Pedigrees, Working Titles and Certifications
    * Schutzhund
    * Health Concerns
         + Brief Explanations of Various Disorders
         + More Detail on Common Disorders
              o Degenerative Myleopathy
              o Elbow Dysplasia
              o Epilepsy
              o Hip Dysplasia
              o Pannus
              o Panosteitis
              o Peripheral Vestibular Disease
              o Soft Ears
              o Von Willebrand's Disease
         + OFA Information and Statistics on GSD Hip and Elbow Dysplasia
           (rn*)
    * Color and Heredity
    * GSD Standards - AKC and British Comparisons
    * Resources
         + Bibliography
         + Addresses
              o German Shepherd Dog Club of America
              o United Schutzhund Clubs of America
              o Verein fur Deutsche Schaferhunde
              o German Shepherd Dog Club of Canada
         + GSD Mailing Lists
         + Rescue (updated 14 Dec 1995)
              o AK
              o AZ
              o CA
              o CO
              o CT
              o DE
              o FL
              o GA
              o ID
              o IL
              o IN
              o LA
              o MA
              o MD
              o ME
              o MI
              o MN
              o MO
              o MS
              o NC
              o NH
              o NJ
              o NM
              o NV
              o NY
              o OH
              o OK
              o PA
              o SC
              o TN
              o TX
              o VA
              o VT
              o WA
              o WV
              o WI
         + Breeders (under construction)
         + Other Resources (under construction)

    _________________________________________________________________

 _Introduction_ (mc)

    "The most striking features of the correctly bred German Shepherd
    are firmness of nerves, attentiveness, unshockability,
    tractability, watchfulness, reliability and incorruptibility
    together with courage, fighting tenacity and hardness."

    - Max von Stephanitz, Father of the German Shepherd Dog

  The German Shepherd Dog (GSD) is a versatile working-dog, capable of
  being trained to perform a wide variety of tasks. GSDs are family
  pets, police dogs, guide dogs, search and rescue dogs, bomb and drug
  detection dogs, sheep and cattle herders, hunting companions, guard
  dogs, obedience champions, avalanche dogs, assistance dogs, show dogs,
  and more.

  Regardless of their particular role, GSDs are excellent companions
  provided they receive the attention, training, and exercise they need
  and feel useful. On the other hand, a neglected GSD will use those
  same wonderful traits to devise ways to amuse himself, much to the
  chagrin of his owner.


  Go to Table of Contents
    _________________________________________________________________

 _Questions_ (all)

    _Do GSDs make good family pets?_

    Yes! GSDs are naturally protective of their "pack". Young children
    should never be left unattended with a puppy, however, if the
    children learn to respect the puppy as a living being, the puppy
    will be a wonderful companion for the children as they all grow up
    together. Your dog's ranking in the "pack" should always be
    established as the bottom (Omega) member below humans.

    _What traits are inherent in GSDs generally?_

    GSDs are natural herding dogs. Your GSD will try to "herd" you and
    your family. Often they will "follow ahead", walking in front of
    you and looking back to make sure you're going where you should.
    Although the GSD is not used as frequently for herding in present
    time, there are many breed lines still known for their herding. The
    breed is naturally loyal, intelligent and protective (which makes
    it good for police work). The GSD has an excellent nose, making it
    good for tracking and search and rescue work. They are calm and
    have a steady temperament when well-bred which is why they have
    been used as "Seeing Eye" dogs. A GSD thrives on regular exercise,
    mental stimulation and a well-balanced diet.

    These traits make a GSD an absolute pleasure to own when
    well-trained, but in the hands of a novice, unconcerned,
    uncommitted owner, their intelligence and drive can become
    difficult to manage.

    Breeding plays an important role in the temperament of GSDs, so
    selecting a reputable breeder concerned with both physical health
    and the personality of their puppies is of utmost importance.
    Different bloodlines exhibit traits differently, so question
    breeders about the strong and weak traits of their bloodlines. See
    the question on German versus American bloodlines about specific
    general differences.

    _What should I look for in a GSD puppy?_

    Obviously, many factors affect the selection of the puppy,
    including the personality and lifestyle of the prospective owner.
    Avoid puppies that appear too shy or nervous. Puppies at an age
    where they can be sent home with their new owners should be
    inquisitive and curious. GSD pups generally lengthen along the back
    and loin rather than get shorter. Look for balance in angulation,
    especially in the hind quarters as an imbalanced pup may never grow
    into the correct angulation. Meet both sire and dam if possible
    since character is very important. The puppies' parents should be
    OFA certified (preferably "Good" or "Excellent") (US dogs), OVC
    certified (Canadian dogs) or certified "a-normal" (German dogs).
    Make sure you see the parents' certifications. Hip problems can be
    devastating.

    The OFA is the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals. When potential
    breeding stock reaches the age of 2, the breeder should have a set
    of x-rays taken and submit them to the OFA for certification. OFA
    will return a certification (Excellent, Good, or Fair) along with a
    certification number for the dog. (Dysplastic dogs will not be
    given a certification number.) (German certification is done over 1
    year of age.) For information on German certifications, see the
    section on German Pedigrees, Working Titles and Certifications.
    More information on OFA can be found in the health and medical FAQs
    in rec.pets.dogs.info. Statistics regarding the GSD and OFA
    information can be found in the section on OFA Information and
    Statistics. Watch as the puppies move about. If you are
    inexperienced with GSDs, do not pick the "bully" of the litter.
    Watch the puppies interact with each other in the litter as well as
    with you and your family members. Watch the puppies you are
    considering interact with you without the rest of the litter
    present. Look for a friendly puppy who is not afraid, but also
    allows you to handle it without a lot of struggle. Bloodlines will
    make a difference in the working drive of the dog. German lines
    tend to be more dominant than American lines as discussed a few
    questions down.

    Ask to look through the puppy's pedigree. Look for obedience
    titles, conformation titles, hip certifications and make sure that
    common ancestors are at least 3 generations back. If you don't
    understand something, ask the breeder! Most of all, select a puppy
    that feels comfortable with your family. Reputable breeders will
    also make suggestions to insure their puppies go to happy,
    well-chosen homes.

    You can also ask if the puppies have been temperament tested and
    look at the results. "The Art of Raising a Puppy" by the Monks of
    New Skete (see Bibliography) details temperament testing and puppy
    selection.

    Elbow certifications as well as hip certifications are becoming
    more common. As with hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia can only be
    diagnosed by radiograph.

    Also check out the breeding information found at
    http://www.cluebus.com/holly/breeder.html about specific questions
    to ask (and to be asked).

    _Can my breeder guarantee my puppy will not have hip problems?_

    NO! Hip dysplasia is considered to be polygenic. That means that
    it's caused by a combination of genes that may not show up in any
    litter previously. No matter the certifications in the pedigree it
    is possible that your puppy could be predisposed to hip dysplasia.
    That's why preliminary hip x-rays after 6 months are a good idea.
    Treatments (both surgical and drug) can be done early to alleviate
    problems down the line. If in doubt, find an orthopedic specialist.
    Be wary of a breeder that says their puppies will definitely not
    have hip problems.

    But, a responsible breeder _will_ guarantee their puppies for life.
    The guarantee may vary. Some breeders will require you to return
    the puppy for a replacement; some will refund all or part of your
    money; some will not require you to return the puppy, but still
    offer a replacement or refund. Do not be dismayed at a requirement
    for a return of a puppy. A puppy may be in severe pain and an owner
    may not be emotionally prepared to put a puppy down who really
    should be put down. A responsible breeder will want what's best for
    the puppy/dog.

    _Should I get a male or female?_

    This is an age-old question and almost strictly a matter of
    preference. Some people will say that males are more "location"
    protective while females are more "pack" protective. Males are
    generally more territorial, so unless training steps are
    consistent, marking could be a problem. (Neutering may help
    alleviate this problem. Any dog not intended for a breeding program
    should be neutered or spayed. Besides eliminating the possibility
    of unwanted puppies and reducing some undesireable behaviors, it's
    considerably healthier for your dog since it eliminates or severely
    reduces the chance of testicular or mammary cancers. Breeding
    should *never* be taken lightly.)

    _How old should my puppy be before I take it home?_

    Puppies are weaned from their mothers by about 6 weeks of age, but
    the period following weaning is very important in terms of learning
    "pack" behavior. Although 8 weeks is old enough and a common age
    for leaving the litter, 10 weeks is probably optimum for a GSD.
    However, better to take the puppy at 8 weeks if the rest of the
    litter have already gone to their homes. Puppies up to 12 weeks old
    should pose no additional concerns. After 12 weeks old, make sure
    the breeder has taken special care to socialize the puppy (puppies)
    with other dogs and people.

    _How big will my GSD be?_

    The full adult size of your GSD will depend in large part on the
    genetic background of its parents. The AKC Standard states that
    adult males should range between 24-26" at the shoulder blade,
    females from 22-24". Males within the standard may weigh anywhere
    from 65-90 lbs. depending on their bloodlines. Females may weigh
    anywhere from 55-80 lbs. (Again, much depends on the genetics and
    bloodlines. The above are only a rough idea.) Although your pup
    will reach close to adult height by 10-18 months, s/he will
    continue to fill out until up to 3 years old.

    Be wary of breeders who emphasize "oversize", "huge", "big-boned"
    breeding stock or puppies. Bigger is _not_ better in German
    Shepherds. The German Shepherd is not built to have a skeletal and
    muscular structure of an oversize breed. An inch or so out of
    standard may be acceptable providing the general line is not
    consistently out of standard. A responsible breeder will offset an
    oversize dog by breeding with a line that is a bit smaller in order
    to maintain the standards as closely as possible.

    _What is "socializing" and why is it so important?_

    Socializing refers to exposing your puppy to a variety of
    experiences, including meeting lots of people of various ages,
    races, sizes and both sexes as well as teaching them how to
    acceptably interact with other dogs. Puppy kindergarten classes
    provide an excellent opportunity for socialization in a controlled
    environment.

    Socializing is important because it helps strengthen your dog's
    confidence and reduces the chance that your dog will become shy or
    fearful. Fearful dogs can become fear aggressive or fear biters.

    _When will my GSD puppy's ears stand?_

    Although some puppies' ears stand as early as 8-10 weeks, don't be
    concerned if your pup's ears don't stand until 6-7 months
    (especially pups with large ears) after teething. Some pups ears
    never stand. This is known as a "soft ear". Sometimes taping is
    successful. "Soft ears" are a genetic trait, and dogs with soft
    ears should not be bred even if taping is successful. It is a
    disqualification in showing. Some GSDs ears stand but wiggle at the
    tips when the dogs run. This is known as "friendly ears". Friendly
    ears are not a disqualification but are not a desirable trait.

    One method of "taping" ears is to take a pink foam roller and
    attach it with eyelash glue to the inside of the ear (the pinna).
    Do not block the ear canal. Taping may take up to 2 months. But
    again, be cautious about considering breeding a dog whose ears have
    had to be taped.

    _What precautions should I take with my GSD puppy?_

    Other than the normal precautions of immunizations (see the new
    puppy FAQ at
    http://www.zmall.com/pet_talk/dog-faqs/new-puppy.html#health),
    beware of a fast-growing puppy. There are studies that show a
    correlation between fast growth and hip dysplasia (if your pup is
    predisposed to HD). You may want to switch your puppy over to adult
    food if it seems to be growing very quickly (see also Your New GSD
    at Home).

    Don't pet your puppy's ears backwards before they stand. Although
    people often do this by nature, it can damage the cartilege in your
    pup's ears which can affect the ear carriage.

    When your puppy is about 6 months old, have preliminary x-rays done
    of your puppy's hips. If your pup shows signs of dysplasia, there
    are treatment alternatives available to younger dogs that are not
    available if the dog is older and has arthritic changes. If
    detected early, there are things you can do for your dog to give it
    a happy, healthy life even with dysplasia. If your pup shows mild
    signs, consider having another set of x-rays taken after your dog
    turns 2. Orthopedic changes (both positive and negative) can take
    place up to this time.

    Under NO circumstances should a dog with any sign of hip dysplasia
    be bred. Breeding stock should be certified with the Orthopedic
    Foundation for Animals before breeding. OFA will certify dogs over
    2 years of age. You are _strongly_ urged to not buy a puppy from a
    breeder who does not have OFA certificates on their breeding stock.
    Do _not_ accept a breeder who says "Oh, my vet checked them and
    they're fine." There are many subtleties in dysplasia that a vet
    not trained in orthopedics may miss. You can look up a dog in the
    OFA database a http://206.29.98.50/ofa/index2.htm to insure that
    the dam and sire in question truly are OFAd.

    Do take your puppy to puppy kindergarten and obedience training
    classes and do your homework for these classes. Behaviors that are
    cute in a 15 pound puppy can be dangerous in a 75 pound adult.
    Socialize your puppy with people (especially children) and other
    dogs frequently (after your puppy has completed its immunization
    series sometime after 16 weeks old).

    Your puppy may go through a period known as "adolescent shyness"
    when it reaches 4-5 months of age. This period can last until the
    pup is 12-18 months old. Socializing your puppy from an early age
    will help minimize this shyness. Expose your puppy to a variety of
    experiences, but do so gently. You don't want to traumatize your
    puppy.

    Be careful of heavy physical exertion directly before and after
    eating, especially if your GSD is a "gulper". GSDs (and many other
    breeds) can suffer from bloat. If your dog's abdomen becomes
    distended and rigid and it can not seem to belch or pass gas,
    gastric torsion may be the problem. (The stomach twists.) This is
    an _immediate_ health concern and you should contact your vet or an
    emergency clinic.

    _When should I switch my puppy to adult food?_

    Individual puppies and bloodlines will vary. You probably are best
    off discussing your puppy's growth and needs with both your vet and
    your breeder. Many breeders and dog food manufacturers advise
    switching to a high quality adult food at four to six months of
    age. As long as you are feeding a high quality food, this has no
    ill effect on the puppy and is probably a good idea. Check out the
    content of the food closely. A puppy or dog with average activity
    should have about 26% protein and 15-18% fat. Look for some kind of
    meat to be the first ingredient, not a grain product. Don't
    overlook feed stores as a good place to buy dog food. Often prices
    are less than at pet supply stores. (Please don't patronize pet
    stores that sell puppies. Pet stores are in the business of making
    money, not breeding responsibly.)

    Offhand, if your puppy is growing very quickly, you might want to
    ask your vet about switching to adult food even as early as 12
    weeks. Studies have shown that puppies growing quickly may
    exacerbate a prediliction to hip dysplasia. Otherwise, you can
    consider switching any time after 10-18 months depending on the
    dog.

    Dry food is fine. You don't need to supplement with canned food.
    It's expensive and doesn't provide anything a good dry food
    doesn't. If your puppy doesn't want to eat the dry food, you can
    moisten it slightly with warm water. (This may also reduce the risk
    of bloat.

    _How often should I feed my puppy and how much?_

    Free-feeding versus scheduled feeding is another area in which
    people disagree violently. Some breeds don't lend themselves well
    to free feeding. German Shepherds, depending on the individual dog,
    are often excellent at being free-fed without worry of over-eating
    or becoming fat. (But you do need to keep an eye on your
    puppy's/dog's weight. You should be able to feel the ribs under the
    skin fairly easily.)

    However, during housebreaking, it's usually a good idea to keep a
    modified free-feed for a puppy so you can anticipate when they will
    need to go out to potty. (Usually this is about 15-30 minutes after
    eating, but it can be an amazing 4 hours or more with some
    puppies.) Feed the puppy as much as it will eat before leaving the
    bowl 3 times a day up until the puppy is moderately well
    housebroken (4-5 months old). If you will be gone for long hours,
    you may want to consider only leaving a small amount in the bowl in
    the mornings after that time, but giving free access to food until
    about an hour before bedtime until the puppy is completely
    reliable. After that, the dog will have learned the family schedule
    better and adjust its eating schedule accordingly. (Be aware,
    however, that there will be times with every dog, no matter what
    kind of feeding schedule, where the dog will need to go out during
    the night to potty, or, if you're a late sleeper/worker, at least
    by the time it's light out.)

    Should you choose to schedule feed (and there's nothing wrong with
    this), it's still better to feed at least a small amount of food
    before leaving for the day. Often a dog that's hungry will vomit up
    yellow bile. A small meal in the morning should keep this from
    happening, but shouldn't cause the dog undue distress from needing
    to relieve itself during the day. You can feed the dog its main
    portion of food in the evening when you're home to walk it. For a
    German Shepherd with an average activity level, 1 cup of food in
    the morning followed by 3 cups in the evening should be about
    right, but keep an eye on your dog's weight and adjust the food
    accordingly.

    Approximately the same rules apply to water. It won't do a puppy
    any harm to have its water source removed about an hour before
    bedtime and not have access to water until the morning. Fresh water
    should be available with every meal. Once the dog is housebroken,
    free access to water unless you will be gone for an extrodinarily
    long period of time should not be a problem.

    See the next section on bloat.

    _What is bloat (gastric torsion)?_

    Bloat (otherwise known as "gastric torsion") can be a problem with
    any deep-chested breed like German Shepherds. The stomach twists so
    nothing can pass through the esophagus to the stomach or through
    the stomach to the intestions, causing gas to build up. This is an
    _immediate_ health concern where the dog should be taken to the vet
    or emergency clinic. Signs of bloat include a distended rigid
    abdomen, indications of vomiting with no results and inability to
    belch or pass gas.

    High activity directly before or after eating can exacerbate
    bloating. Keeping the dog quiet at least one hour before and after
    eating can help reduce the chances of bloat. Pre-moistening the
    dog's food with water can also reduce the chances, however, without
    the teeth-cleaning help of crunching food, you will want to take
    especially good care of your dog's teeth by weekly tooth-brushing
    and hard biscuits to help remove tartar. (Be sure to include any
    treats you give in the balance of food intake. Too many treats may
    cause your dog to gain weight, and treats only may not give the dog
    the nutrition it needs.) Smaller meals can also reduce the risk of
    bloat if you do not free-feed. (Free-fed dogs just need to have
    their activity level watched, but do not usually eat enough at any
    one sitting to cause problems. Bloat is more of a problem with a
    dog that "gulps" its food which a free-fed dog won't usually do.
    Don't leave pre-moistened food down for a free-fed dog too long as
    it can breed bacteria. Instead, leave them smaller portions, but
    refill more frequently.)

    _What is the life expectancy of a GSD?_

    Most lines of GSDs will live to between 10-13 years of age. 11-12
    years is probably a very reasonable expectation. A GSD becomes
    "middle-aged" between 5-7 years old, and is generally considered
    "geriatric" at about 10. Their food intake and exercise and
    nutrition needs may change over this period of time. They may begin
    to develop stiffness in their joints (much like people do as they
    get older). Healthy teeth are important as bacteria from decaying
    teeth can affect the health of the dog.

    _I talk to some breeders who tell me to not look at GSDs from
  American bloodlines. I talk to some who tell me that I shouldn't look
  at GSDs from German bloodlines. Who's right and who's wrong?_

    Both and neither. There are some fairly distinct general
    differences between the two lines, and there are some breeders
    trying to breed for "the best of both worlds" by crossing American
    lines with German. The best thing you can do is determine what you
    want from your German Shepherd Dog and want to do with him/her, and
    find a line and breeder that breeds for those traits in a
    responsible manner.

    German Shepherds from American lines are typically longer and
    leaner than GSDs from German lines. Often GSDs from American
    bloodlines are taller as well.

    American GSD lines tend to have sharp angulation in the hind
    quarters, more so than any other breed. This angulation allows them
    to move seemingly without touching the ground. American lines tend
    to be bred for elegance and nobility. A well-bred GSD from American
    lines is calm, discriminating and intelligent: never fearful. They
    are often less active and less dominant than their German
    counterparts which can make them better pets for the potential
    owner looking solely for a good companion, especially novice
    owners.

    To the negative side of GSDs from American lines, many lines lack
    working ability or drive. If you're interested in any kind of work
    or sport activity with your dog, look for a breeder who tests
    working aptitude in their breeding stock. (Aptitude can be tested
    separately from actually taking the dog to trials and competing in
    events.) The AKC does not require breeding dogs be able to work or
    have any titles.

    Bad examples of German Shepherd type may appear spindly and
    unbalanced when they move. Such poor movers can have trouble with
    jumps and tight turns required in various sports. Some GSDs of this
    type are nervous and spooky.

    German line GSDs are generally stockier than their American
    counterparts and more moderate in both structure and movement
    without the severe angulation found in American lines. They may not
    appear as graceful and dignified but instead have an air of
    muscular agility. German lines typically produce high-energy,
    high-intensity dogs.

    German breeding stock is required to pass minimum standards for
    both conformation and working ability, so dogs from German lines
    rarely lacking intelligence. However, the dogs from some bloodlines
    pass working tests by being aggressive and "sharp" without
    discrimination which does not lead them to be good working dogs.

    A poor-quality German-line German Shepherd may be too heavily built
    for real agility and/or may have a temperament that isn't suitable
    for any but the most experienced owner. Dominant aggression is more
    likely to be found in these lines than fear aggression. Some
    breeders breed for size and aggression rather than a well-rounded,
    well-tempered dog.

    Hip certification in Germany follows different rules and guidelines
    than that of the OFA. Dogs are x-rayed at one year of age rather
    than two years, and hips are rated "A-normal", "fast normal" or
    "noch zugelassen". Hips rated NZ may not pass OFA certification.

    Good examples of either German or American lines should be highly
    intelligent, trainable and extremely loyal to their families. All
    German Shepherds, regardless of their ancestry, should be bred for
    good health and stable temperaments.

    Both German and American lines have their passionate advocates, but
    the decision of what bloodlines to purchase is ultimately a matter
    of taste, need and expectations.

    You will find fans of the American lines who will tell you that all
    German dogs are ugly and brutally aggressive, and some lovers of
    German lines would have you believe that American dogs are unsound,
    stupid, and cowardly. Both of these extremes are exaggerated:
    Healthy, mentally sound dogs can be found in either bloodline. The
    most important thing is to find a good breeder whom you trust and
    whose breeding stock (both the chosen sire and dam) fits your
    lifestyle, regardless of style or registry.

    If you are interested in showing your dog in the AKC conformation
    ring with the intention of getting a championship, you are probably
    better off looking at American lines. It will be difficult if not
    impossible to win with a German Shepherd from German lines.
    American (AKC) GSDs from responsible breeders are bred with an eye
    to what the AKC breed standard demands and what AKC conformation
    judges reward. A German line GSD may be beautiful but still won't
    be right for the AKC show ring.

    If you are more interested in competing in Schutzhund, training for
    protection work, herding, or other working discipline, you may be
    better getting a GSD from German lines. There are American dogs who
    have the courage and drive, but their ancestors may not have
    competed for the last 6 or 8 generations. All of the German dog's
    ancestors have been selected for working ability, so you have a
    greater chance of finding a suitable puppy without having to test
    litter after litter. Also, since a breeder of German lines is more
    likely to be involved in working disciplines, you will know someone
    who can mentor you.

    Given the above generalizations, choose the type more suitable to
    your needs, lifestyle and abilities. If you do your "homework" in
    researching breeders to find someone who is responsibly selecting
    and testing their breeding stock to produce healthy, well-tempered
    German Shepherds, you are far more likely to end up with a puppy
    who fits your expectations more comfortably. Be totally open and
    honest with your breeder in your desires so s/he can help you
    select the right puppy for you. Any GSD physically and mentally
    capable of the work should be able to be trained and compete
    successfully in obedience, agility, tracking, herding and other
    disciplines, and any well-bred GSD should make an excellent
    companion.

    _Do German Shepherds shed a lot?_

    Yes. The GSD is a "double-coated" dog with an undercoat and guard
    hairs. The guard hairs will be shed all year. The undercoat is
    "blown" twice a year.

    _What about long-coated GSDs?_

    "The correct GSD coat is relatively short with an obvious
    undercoat. As such it is quite waterproof. Some dogs are born with
    long coats which usually, though not always, are devoid of
    undercoat. Such coats are less useful and more difficult to groom,
    but many pet owners seem to like the long-coated version. Thus
    there is not strong selection against it, though very few breeders
    would deliberately breed from long-coated stock. The normal coat is
    dominant to the long version, so there are three kinds of dog:
    normal, normal but carrying the long coat gene, and long. About 10%
    of the pups are born long-coated." (1)

    This being said, if you don't intend to show your dog in
    conformation, there's no reason to avoid the long-coated GSD.
    Long-coated GSDs can and do compete in obedience and other working
    disciplines. You should be aware, however, that the longer coat
    does require more attention when grooming.

    _Are GSDs smart and easy to train?_

    Yes and no to both. Most GSDs are eager and willing to learn and
    enjoy training sessions (don't overdo with a young pup - they just
    don't have the attention span). If you start young and teach your
    puppy its order in your "pack", problems with training will be
    minimized. However, GSDs tend to have more dominant personalities
    than some breeds and can be stubborn, so some care in training is
    recommended. Classes are extremely beneficial. A GSD that thinks
    it's the Alpha member of the pack can be a big handful.

    _My adolescent GSD is limping! What should I do?_

    Don't panic. You probably *do* want to take your pup into a vet
    certified in orthopedic problems and reading x-rays just to make
    sure you can eliminate hip and elbow dysplasia from the cause of
    the problem. (Of course, that's true of all GSD puppies since early
    diagnosis/treatment of dysplasia is important to your puppy's
    healthy life even if you don't plan on breeding.) But... most
    likely the vet will confirm that your pup has panosteitis, an
    inflammation of the long bones in the legs of adolescent pups. It's
    fairly common in GSDs. It's also known as "long bone disease",
    "shifting leg lameness" and "growing pains". "Pano" can be detected
    and diagnosed by x-ray.

    Onset can be from 5-12 months (occasionally later) and last until
    18 months or more. Though it is uncomfortable for the puppy, it
    almost always grows out of it. The lameness need not be limited to
    one leg. Pano is generally considered to be a polygenic trait with
    limited heretibility (1).

    _What is a "gay tail"?_

    A GSD that carries its tail naturally higher than its body is said
    to have a "gay tail". Many Northern breeds such as Samoyeds are
    bred to carry their tails high. It is a fault in GSDs.

    _Why do GSDs have a reputation of being vicious?_

    In the 1950s, GSDs became the most popular dog in the AKC registry.
    As a result, many breedings were made without regard to pedigree
    history and inbreeding caused many personality problems. Reputable
    breeders will usually not allow inbreeding at least 3 generations
    back in the puppy's pedigree.

    Inbreeding and linebreeding can be beneficial in a breeding program
    if a breeder practices them carefully. Desireable traits can be
    strengthened, but undesireable traits and faults may be brought
    forth as well. If you notice inbreeding or linebreeding in the
    pedigree, question the breeder as to why and what the perceived
    advantages were. Breeders practicing these breedings should be able
    to give reasonably educated answers as to why.

    _Why is a white GSD disqualified from the show ring in many clubs?_

    The GSD was bred and developed as a herding dog. A pure white coat
    is not readily visible on snowy hillsides and sheep seem to respond
    better to colored dogs. As a guard dog, white is too visible. Also,
    top breeders have bred against a white color for a lengthy amount
    of time, so the gene pool of white GSDs is very limited and
    inbreeding can be a problem.

    _What is an average size litter?_

    An average size litter for a GSD is seven to eight puppies.

    _What is the difference between a GSD and an Alsatian?_

    There is no difference. After each of the World Wars, anything
    German fell out of popular favor. To avoid the use of the word
    German, "Alsatian" (from the Alsace-Lorraine area) was used. In
    some countries, GSDs are still known as Alsations. The name in
    Germany is Deustche Schaferhund which means "German Shepherd Dog".
    The word "Dog" is part of the name.

    _Why is the word "dog" used in the breed name for GSDs and not for
  other breeds?_

    The name in Germany is Deustche Schaferhund which means "German
    Shepherd Dog". The word "Dog" is actually part of the breed's name
    unlike other breeds.

    _What is Schutzhund?_

    Schutzhund is German for "protection dog", but it also refers to a
    training discipline and dog sport involving 3 phases; obedience,
    tracking and protection. It is supposed to be a fun experience for
    both the dog and the handler. If it isn't for one or the other,
    don't consider it. Find another activity. Schutzhund is not the be
    all and end all of training. See the section on Schutzhund (often
    notated as SchH) for more information. (Also, as of this writing, a
    Schutzhund FAQ is being worked on by some of the subscribers to the
    GSD-L mailing list. See the Resources for information on GSD-L.)

    _Is there a club for GSDs in the US or in my area?_

    Yes. You can get a packet of information on GSDs, information about
    the United States national club and information on a local club (if
    applicable) can be had by writing to the German Shepherd Dog Club
    of America (address in Resources below). You may be able to find
    out if there's a club in your country from this organization as
    well.

    You can also contact the United Schutzhund Club of America (USA)
    (address in Resources below) to get information on GSDs in general,
    about Schutzhund, about conformation shows and Schutzhund trials,
    the Breed Registry and to find a Schutzhund club near you.

    Canadians can contact the German Shepherd Dog Club of Canada.

    _Is there a mailing list for GSDs?_

    Yes! See the Resources section below.

  If you have other questions you feel should be answered in this FAQ,
  please write to [email protected] (but note that sometimes responses
  take a while due to time constraints)


  Go to Table of Contents
    _________________________________________________________________

 _Finding Your New GSD (mc/hs)_

  You should seek out a reputable breeder when looking for a GSD pup
  because of the health concerns noted above as well as problems in
  temperament brought out in ill-bred GSDs. Poorly-bred GSDs can also be
  aggressive, fearful, or shy-sharp (a fearful dog that becomes
  aggressive when frightened). It is for these reasons that a reputable
  breeder is more likely to have sound pups, guarantee their health,
  help you select the puppy most suited to your lifestyle and goals, and
  be able to guide you as the pup grows. Review the information on
  breeding at Breeding Your Dog FAQ at
  http://www.zmall.com/pet_talk/dog-faqs/breeding.html to learn the
  kinds of things a responsible breeder will do.

  There are numerous resources to finding a reputable breeder. You can
  contact the GSD Club of America (address in the Resources section),
  your local GSD Club, United Schutzhund Club of America, GSD Club of
  Canada, local obedience schools or even by attending dogs shows and
  talking to people. (Note: Wait until the dog and handler have competed
  to approach them. Nerves and focus may interfere with your impression
  of both the dog and breeder otherwise and distractions before
  competing are unfair to the handler.)

  Don't overlook the possibility that a GSD is waiting to be adopted
  from a local shelter or rescue organization. There may also be sound
  GSDs that need homes because of changing family circumstances. When
  adopting a GSD from one of these sources, find out as much as you can
  about the dog's habits and any commands he understands. Taking the
  time to learn about the dog up front greatly improve the chance of
  making a good match between owner and dog, and with a dog that has
  already been displaced, it's important to find a match that will last
  a lifetime. Remember, though, that a GSD that has already been part of
  a family may take up to a few months to adjust completely to his new
  family and bond to his new humans. In return, you may find a dog who
  is already housebroken and at least partly trained to help smooth the
  transition into your home. You can find if there is a rescue
  organization in your area by contacting the national rescue chair
  whose address is located in the Resources section of this FAQ.


  Go to Table of Contents
    _________________________________________________________________

 _Your New GSD Puppy at Home (hs)_

  Commit yourself (and your family) to training your puppy. Use the
  resources of formal class training beginning from about 12 weeks of
  age with a puppy kindergarten class for socialization and early
  training. Move on to more formally structured classes when the pup is
  six months old. Do your homework. Being intelligent and motivated, an
  untrained or ill-trained GSD can prove to be an unacceptable family
  member. Work on subordination and relaxation exercises every day.

  Be wary of asking too much physically from a young GSD pup, such as
  jumping, long runs, etc. While your pup is growing, you can damage the
  growth plates or exacerbate a tendency to hip dysplasia. Your puppy
  should be 12-18 months old before any heavy physical demands are
  placed on it.

  By 10 weeks of age, your GSD puppy will weigh somewhere around 13-20
  pounds (depending on sex and bloodlines). A GSD will continue to fill
  out until 24-36 months old, but should reach close to full adult
  height by 12 months.

  Your new GSD puppy will require a great deal of attention and
  socialization. Between 4-12 months, GSDs can be prone to "adolescent
  shyness". If the dog is well-socialized during prior to this point,
  you can minimize many of the worries that are associated with a shy
  dog. Puppy Kindergarten and obedience classes are highly recommended
  for all dogs, but especially for larger breeds such as the GSD. Expose
  your puppy to as many different experiences as possible, but do not
  allow your puppy to be traumatized.

  Although it is very tempting to pet your GSD puppies ears backwards
  away from the nose, it is preferable to not do so until the
  musculature in the ear is fully developed and the ear standing erect.
  Be content with scratching the ear at the base where it meets the
  skull. Your puppy will probably find this very enjoyable anyway.

  And don't forget how important puppy immunizations are!


  Go to Table of Contents
    _________________________________________________________________

 _History of the GSD (hs(2))_

  The GSD is a fairly recent breed in the breeding history of dogs,
  having been developed almost entirely in the 1900s. In the late
  1880s-early 1890s the first GSD Club, called the Phylax Society, was
  formed in Germany. The club survived for only a short time. On April
  3, 1899, Max von Stephanitz and Artur Meyer attended one of the
  earliest dog shows for all breeds ever held in Germany. On that day,
  von Stephanitz purchased a herding dog he observed at the show, and he
  and Meyer decided to form the Verein fur Deutsche Schaferhunde, S.V.
  Von Stephanitz was named the organization's first president and
  remained so until his death in 1936. The dog he purchased that day,
  Horand von Grafrath (previously Hektor Linksrhein) was designated
  S.Z.1, the first GSD to be registered with the Verein. The Verein
  became a driving force in the canine world and the largest specialty
  club with 50,000 members and over 600 affiliated clubs.

  The Verein started to keep a stud book immediately (marked by an S.Z.
  number) and began to circulate a semi-monthly newsletter. It held
  annual "Sieger" shows at which one dog and bitch were selected as
  Sieger and Siegerin. The Verein and von Stephanitz held a tight rein
  on GSD breeding throughout Germany, holding jurisdiction on which dogs
  and bitches could be used for breeding, which could be bred to one
  another, the number of puppies that could be kept and raised from each
  litter and age limitations on breeding stock. The von Stephanitz motto
  "utility and intelligence" was key.

  Though herding was the GSDs original purpose, von Stephanitz
  recognized the importance of expanding the breed's usefulness in other
  directions and persuaded the government (amid some amusement) to use
  the GSD in police and military work. GSDs went on to become the first
  dogs used as Guide Dogs for the blind.

  The GSD lost popularity in the United States during each of the World
  Wars, but recovered directly after, mostly attributed to soldiers
  returning from Europe with GSDs. Rin Tin Tin was actually a dog that
  was brought to America after World War I by a soldier named Larry
  Baker. In Germany, the dog was used as a military dog during each of
  the wars.

  The first German Shepherd registered with the AKC was Queen of
  Switzerland, registered in 1908.


  Go to Table of Contents
    _________________________________________________________________

 _German Pedigrees, Working Degrees and Ratings (mc/cm/jm/dp)_

  In Germany, there is much more emphasis on the working abilities of
  the GSD, in keeping with Max von Stephanitz's vision of developing a
  dog with "a highly developed sense of smell, enormous courage,
  intrepidness, agility and, despite its aggressiveness, great
  obedience."

  Before the turn of the century, there were many informal training
  contests in Europe. Max von Stephanitz formalized the competitions
  under the auspices of the SV - Verein fur Deutsche Schaferhunde (GSD
  Club of Germany) and included tests of performance in tracking,
  obedience, and protection. These tests are what we know today as
  Schutzhund. (See the section on Schutzhund for more information.)

  Unlike the AKC which simply registers all dogs born of AKC registered
  parents, for a litter in Germany to be officially registered both its
  parents must have working titles and at least a "G" (Good)
  conformation rating. The SV will register litters from parents it
  doesn't consider "suitable for breeding" if the above requirements are
  met. For an adult dog to compete in conformation shows or be
  recommended for breeding, it must first have a working title (@).
  (Most have Schutzhund titles.) The exception to this is that an adult
  dog may compete once in a lifetime in the non-titled adult dog class.
  Adolescents and puppies do not need working titles to compete in
  conformation.

  (@) The work done to achieve the titles must include tracking,
  obedience and protection, and must be accepted by the VDH (Verein fur
  Deutsche Hundeswessen). These include SchH and IPO. PH, DH, DPO and
  German Narcotics and Bomb dogs are accepted, but the dog is a real
  working dog or must actually have done the work for a year. Tending
  style herding (for which the dogs were originally bred) is also
  accepted (HGH) is also included, though it does not have a tracking
  segment. It does have a protection segment. The dog must perform a
  courage test. No AKC titles are accepted as they do not include a
  courage test. The SV standard calls for the desire to protect. French
  Ring is not accepted by the VDH.

  For an adult GSD to compete in the annual Sieger show (the premier
  German show), the dog must be free of hip dysplasia (*) and have
  earned a Schutzhund I, II, or III title. The dogs are first judged in
  two categories: conformation and courage; those that pass move on to
  compete for the Sieger (dog) and Siegerin (bitch) titles. The dogs are
  judged by physical characteristics, temperament, and movement, and
  their pedigrees are examined.

  (*) Dogs are x-rayed at one year of age and are given certifications
  of "a-normal", "fast-normal" or "noch-zugelassen", designating
  "normal", "nearly normal" and "mild hip dysplasia, still permissable
  to breed". (This lowest certification is generally not seen in show
  and breeding dogs.) Although there are no verifiable statistics, it is
  generally accepted that "a-normal" dogs will OFA at "Good" or better,
  "fast-normal" will generally, but not always OFA, and
  "noch-zugelassen" dogs will OFA only occasionally.

  German pedigrees have an "a-stamp" (literally a stamp) in the lowest
  right corner of the pedigree and the actual hip rating for that
  individual is hand-written on that stamp, so it is easy to verify the
  actual hip rating of the dog whose pedigree you have in front of you.
  Unfortunately, all the other ancestors only have the anonymous
  designation of an "a" ZUERKANNT, which only indicates that the
  ancestor was x-rayed and falls within the SV standard of "acceptable
  for breeding". It does not, therefore, indicate what the specific hip
  rating of the ancestor is/was, either normal, fast-normal or
  noch-zugelassen. Unfortunately, many people seem to think the "a"
  ZUERKANNT designation implies a hip rating of normal when in truth, it
  may signify any of the levels.

                        German Titles And Ratings

  (Note: These titles cover all breeds, not just GSDs. A ranking of 3 is
  the highest.)

  _*_
  Used farther back in pedigrees to save room and denotes kkl-l or
  kkl-II.
  Before a dog's name, indicates dog has been surveyed and approved for
  breeding

  _a_
  "a" stamp indicating the dog's hips have been evaluated and fall
  within limits
  considered acceptable for breeding

  _A_
  Ausreichend
  Sufficient show or performance rating

  _AD_
  Ausdauerpruefung
  Endurance title (test includes a 12-mile run & simple obedience test)

  _Angekoert_
  Recommended for breeding

  _BH_
  German Companion Dog
  Must precede SchH I

  _BlH_
  Blindenhund
  Blind guide dog

  _BpDH I, II_
  Bahnpolizei Diensthund
  Railroad police service dog

  _DH_
  Diensthund
  Service dog

  _FH_
  Fahrtenhund
  Most advanced tracking title awarded by the SV

  _G_
  Gut
  Good show or performance rating

  _GRH_
  Grenzenhund
  Border patrol dog

  _HGH_
  Herdengebrauchshund
  Herding dog

  _IPO I, II, III_
  Schutzhund III according to the international rules

  _KKL I_
  Koerklasse I
  Especially recommended for breeding

  _KKL II_
  Koerklasse II
  Suitable for breeding

  _KrH_
  Kriegshund
  War dog

  _LawH_
  Lawinenhund
  Avalanche dog

  _Lbz_
  Lebenszeit
  Breed surveyed for lifetime

  _M_
  Mangelhaft
  Faulty show or performance rating

  _MH_
  Meldehund
  Dispatch Army dog (messenger dog)

  _PDH_
  Polizei Dienst Hund
  Working Police dog

  _PH_
  Polizeihund
  Police-trained dog

  _PSP_
  Polizeischutzhundprufung
  Police protection dog

  _SchH I, II, III_
  Schutzhund
  Obedience, tracking, and protection titles

  _SG_
  Sehr Gut
  Very Good show or performance rating;
  highest rating obtainable by dogs under 2 years old or at USA SchH
  shows,
  the highest rating that can be obtained by an untitled dog

  _SH_
  Sanitatshund
  Red Cross dog

  _SH_
  Suchhund
  Tracking dog

  _U_
  Ungenugend
  Unsatisfactory show or performance rating

  _V_
  Vorzuglich
  Excellent show or performance rating

  _VA_
  Vorzuglich-Auslese
  Excellent Select show rating at Sieger show;
  highest award obtainable by a German show dog;
  typically awarded to 12-15 dogs and bitches each year

  _VH_
  Vorhanden
  Sufficient show or performance rating

  _ZB_
  Zuchtbewertung
  Conformation show rating

  _ZH I, II_
  Zollhund I, II
  Customs dog

  _ZPr_
  Zuchtpruefung
  Passed a breed survey, recommended for breeding

  _CACIB_
  European International Champion

  _Bundesieger_
  Working Dog Champion of the Year (Leistungssieger)

  _Europameister_
  World Champion SchH III dog

  _Hutesiger_
  Herding Dog Champion at German herding dog championship

  _Leistungssieger_
  Working Dog Champion of the Year (Bundesieger)

  _Preishuten Sieger_
  Sheepherding Champion of the Year

  _Sieger_
  Grand Victor title at the German Sieger show

  _Siegerin_
  Highest Sieger bitch title

  Dogs are also rated and must achieve an G (good), SG (very good), V
  (excellent), or VA (excellent select) rating to be breed, as well as
  hip certification and a working degree.


  Go to Table of Contents
    _________________________________________________________________

 _Schutzhund (cm)_

  Schutzhund is a German dog sport. It translates into "protection dog".

  The purpose of Schutzhund training is to assess and mold the dog's
  natural abilities to track, protect, and teach the dog control through
  obedience. It has been considered by some to be a test for breeding in
  that during the training the degree to which the dog possesses these
  working abilities becomes apparent. There are three degrees of
  Schutzhund training: SchH1 or novice; SchH2 or intermediate; and SchH3
  or advanced.

  To be eligible to do Schutzhund training, it is essential that the dog
  have a sound temperament. It cannot be shy, sharp shy, vicious, or
  have poor nerves (that is easily rattled). A responsible trainer will
  never train a dog with poor temperament in Schutzhund. It is also
  important that the trainer know when to back down and when to admit
  ignorance in order to keep from ruining a dog.

  Good socialization during puppyhood is critical. Poorly socialized
  dogs will have problems getting started and will require more ground
  work.

  The tracking is very similar to the AKC TD and TDX, except the dog is
  penalized for quartering (that is sniffing from side to side down the
  track). This phase of training can be started when the dog is about
  five months old.

  The obedience portion is very similar to that of the AKC CDX work
  except it is done on a large field as opposed to a small ring. This is
  for SchH1. For SchH2 and 3 obedience, the dog has to scale a 6 foot
  tall slanted wall to retrieve a dumbell in addition to the SchH1
  exercises. The dog is expected to do the work with greater precision
  at the more advanced levels. This portion of the training is usually
  started in earnest at about 12 months of age. Basic puppy training is
  always a good idea.

  The protection phase consists of developing the dog's natural
  protective instincts, and teaches it control in full drive through
  obedience exercises. The protection phase is best started no earlier
  than 15 months of age. The dog needs to have developed emotionally as
  well as physically and mentally.

  Schutzhund training is very time consuming and requires a committment
  from the owner. The length of time it takes to attain a SchH1 title
  will depend upon the dog's abilities and the time committment made by
  the owner. This can range from three months under ideal conditions
  (two times tracking/wk; four times/wk of obedience; four times/wk of
  protection) to three years if the training is sporadic or of poor
  quality.

  There is a difference between Schutzhund Training and a Schutzhund
  Trial. When done properly the training is a good test of the dog. A
  strong dog doesn't always do well at trials because they can be a bit
  obstinate during the obedience phase. A dog that scores well may not
  be a good dog.

  In Germany, the two largest Schutzhund organizations are the SV (GSD
  Dog Club) and the DVG (German Alliance for Utility Dog Sports). In
  1975, the first Schutzhund organization in the US, United Schutzhund
  Club of America (USA), was formed. Soon after, an American branch of
  the DVG formed. The USA's address and phone numbers are in the
  Resources section. (Breeding requirements for the United Schutzhund
  Clubs of America include a minimum of an "a" stamp and BH (German
  Companion Dog).


  Go to Table of Contents
    _________________________________________________________________

 _Health Concerns (mc/hs/cm/lm/kc)_

  Due to the breed's versatility, the GSD has become a very popular pet.
  This is a mixed blessing. While many people truly enjoy the pleasure a
  well-bred and well-trained GSD adds to their lives, others have been
  attracted to the breed primarily to make money. A well-bred GSD is a
  remarkable dog, but a GSD from a disreputable breeder, accidental
  breeding, or someone trying to recoup their initial investment, can be
  a nightmare. Without careful consideration of genetic, temperament,
  and physical characteristics, the resulting litter can be plagued with
  serious health and temperament problems.

  Health disorders (some genetic) seen in GSDs (some are explained in
  more detail below):

  _Key:_
  d = dominant
  r = recessive
  p = polygenic
  % = may not always be genetic
  ^ = suspected genetic
  ? = unknown

  _achalasia (r)_
  dilated esophagus; vomiting begins at weaning

  _ankylosis (?)_
  fusing of vertebrae in tail (or spine) reducing range of motion

  _aubaortic stenosis (?)_

  _bilateral cataract (d)_
  opague lens form in both eyes, usually after 2 years

  _calcium gout (^)_
  calcium gout, lumps in skin caused by calcium deposits
  (calcinosis circumscripta)

  _cerebellar hypoplasia (^)_
  abnormal gait and loss of control starting at 12 weeks

  _chronic pancreatitis (^)_
  lack of enzymes that digest fat and protein;
  chronic weight loss

  _cleft lip and palate (%)_
  nonclosure of bones of upper jaw and roof of mouth

  _corneal dermoid cyst (^)_
  congenital cyst on eye surface

  _cryptorchidism (^)_
  undescended testicle(s)

  _cystinuria (r)_
  high cystine in urine; prone to stone formation (males only)

  _degenerative myelopathy (?)_
  spinal degeneration in older dogs
  (Chronic Degenerative Radiculomyleopathy - CDRM)

  _diabetes mellitus (r)_
  onset of insulin deficiency at 2-6 months

  _distichiasis (^)_
  extra row of eyelashes irritate eye

  _ectasia (r)_
  optic nerve/retina abnormalities (aka "Collie eye")

  _elbow dysplasia (d)_
  progressive developmental deformity of elbow joints,
  symptomless to crippling
  (see ununited anchoneal process)
  may be polygenic

  _eosinophilic colitis (^)_
  chronic bouts of diarrhea

  _eosinophilic myositis (?)_
  acute, relapsing inflammation of the muscles

  _epilepsy (r)_
  recurrent seizures onset between 1-3 years old

  _hemophelia a (r)_
  (factor VIII deficiency) slowed blood clotting, hemorrhages

  _hip dysplasia (p)_
  progressive developmental deformity of hip joints,
  symptomless to crippling

  _intervertebral disc disease (^)_
  slipped disc, pain, weakness to paralysis of limbs

  _malabsorption syndrome (^)_
  inability to absorb digested food leads to starvation

  _nictitating membrane eversion (r)_
  third eyelid rolls back; treated surgically

  _osteochondritis dessicans (^)_
  growth disorder of shoulder cartilage; pain, lameness (OCD)

  _pannus (^)_
  vessels, skin and pigment migrate over eye surface, leading to
  blindness

  _panosteitis (^)_
  acute shifting lameness of growing dogs,
  deep bone pain,
  self-limiting

  _patent ductus arteriosus (p)_
  aortal development defect in fetus,
  loud heart murmur,
  exercise intolerant

  _perianal fistuala (^)_
  open draining tracts around anus

  _peripheral vestibular disease (?)_
  defect of the middle ear causing puppies to circle

  _pituitary dwarfism (^)_
  normally proportioned dwarf, mentally retarded, usually fatal

  _renal cortical hypoplasia (^)_
  degeneration of both kidneys, beginning at about 1 year

  _retinal atrophy (^)_
  (generalized) PRA
  retina degenerates causing first night blindness then total blindness

  _right aortic arch (p)_
  abnormal artery constricts esophagus, vomiting

  _soft ears (r)_
  weak ear musculature

  _spondylosis deformans (^)_
  spinal arthritis

  _ununited anchoneal process (d)_
  elbow dysplasia; pain and limp in front legs

  _von Willebrand's disease (d)_
  bleeding disorder

  Detail for some disorders mentioned above...

  _Degenerative Myelopathy_
  This condition is relatively common among GSDs. It can appear in a
  young dog, but generally appears from middle age. The degeneration
  occurs over time, beginning with hind limb weakness. Eventually other
  weakness can occur, including the lower portion of the esopheogus,
  which makes complete swallowing difficult and can lead to recurrent
  pneumonias. Although initial signs resemble hip dysplasia, in
  actuality, it is the degeneration of the spinal cord rather than hip
  joints.

  _Elbow Dysplasia_
  Elbow dysplasia is characterized by an onset of severe lameness at
  between 4 and 6 months of age. It almost always affects only one of
  the elbows but occasionally will affect both. There are three
  different types of elbow dysplasia: UAP (ununited anconeal process),
  FCP (fractured coronoid process), and OCD (osteochondrosis). OCD more
  resembles arthritis in the elbow that may or may not be brought on by
  trauma or looseness of ligamentation at the elbow. Final diagnosis can
  only be made by radiograph. OFA now certifies elbows as well as hips.
  (See OFA Information and Statistics)

  _Epilepsy_
  This may possibly be genetically transmitted. At the least, the
  tendency exists in a few lines. The disorder may not express itself
  until the dog is about three to four years old. There is no way of
  testing for the disease until the dog has a seizure. (cm)

  _Hip Dysplasia_
  The hip joint is not constructed properly, usually with a shallow
  acetabulum. Dysplastic dogs can vary from minor problems to severe
  dislocation of the hips. This condition is generally considered to be
  inherited. Breeding stock should be OFA (Orthopedic Foundation for
  Animals) certified (look for an OFA number) or given an "A"
  certificate if from Germany. (Canada OVC) Current statistics indicate
  that over 20% of x-rays sent in for OFA certification fail. (See OFA
  Information and Statistics.)


  Although HD is thought to have a genetic base, pedigree, diet,
  exercise and so forth can play a role in the extent that the dog
  exhibits a existing predisposition to HD. Even dogs from long lines of
  certified parents can still produce HD puppies. The inheritance factor
  of HD is not fully known. This is why it has so far been impossible to
  eradicate the condition and why even pups from long lines of certified
  parents can still have HD. However, pups from generations of certified
  dogs are less likely to have HD.

    _There is recent information on HD from Cornell's Animal Health
    Newsletter that specifically discusses the latest HD info (as of
    March, 1994). Although I have chosen to not include it here (due to
    length), HD is a prevalent problem and big issue in GSD breeding.
    The more you read about HD, the better. -hs_

  _Pannus_
  (Chronic Superficial Keratitis (inflammation)) Pannus is an eye
  condition in which blood vessels grow onto the cornea. It can lead to
  blindness if untreated. It is not curable, but is controllable with
  medication. Some studies suggest an autoimmune problem. (lm)

  _Panosteitis_
  (Commonly called "long bone disease," "wandering lameness," or simply
  "pano.") Generally seen between 5-12 months of age, it is caused by
  excessive bone production on the long bones. Dogs will generally grow
  out of the problem, but it is a painful condition. Pano is, for
  unknown reasons, common in GSDs. If the dog is x-rayed during a bout
  of pano, lesions on the growth plates will be visible. However, pano
  leaves no lasting ill affects on a dog. Diet is thought to play a
  role. High protein puppy diets may make the puppy grow too fast and
  increase the chance of the pup experiencing pano (sometimes described
  as "growing pains"). Pano is also called "Shifting Leg Lameness" as it
  can show up in any leg and may come and go without warning. Pups
  usually completely outgrow Pano by 18 months. Enforced rest is usually
  prescribed. Painkillers are contraindicated since the pup will play
  more without pain, and may exacerbate the condition.

  _Peripheral Vestibular Disease_
  A congenital defect of the middle ear. Puppies will generally circle
  in an unbalanced way, holding their head back or to one side. Dogs
  rarely recover, and as afflicted adults, there will still be some head
  tilt.

  _Soft Ears_
  Though all GSDs are born with floppy ears, normal ears will begin to
  stand erect in the 2nd or 3rd month. Some ears will never develop the
  musculature to stand erect. This is an inherited recessive trait.
  Though soft ears primarily affects a dog's showability (hanging ears
  are a disqualification), soft-eared GSDs are also more prone to ear
  infections.

  _Von Willebrand's Disease_
  A blood disease that can include mucosal bleeding. It is an inherited
  dominant condition. Requires clinical blood testing to distinguish it
  from other conditions. Results of breeding two VWD dogs are lethal.
  VWD is autosomal and not sex-linked.

    NOTE: Although these disorders are found in GSDs, they are not
    necessarily found only in GSDs, nor are they necessarily common.
    Though this list may seem a bit intimidating, a good look into any
    breed will reveal a substantial list of health problems that may be
    common to that breed. This list shouldn't scare you away from GSDs,
    rather, it should encourage you to find a reputable breeder who is
    aware of/knowledgeable about these conditions and does their best
    to keep their breeding program free of these problems.

                   ___________________________________

   OFA Information and Statistics on GSD Hip and Elbow Dysplasia (rn*)

  The OFA's home page and database (interactive queries) is at
  http://206.29.98.50/ofa/index2.htm

    This section is Copyright (c) 1995 by Robin Nuttall and may not be
    posted, printed or reproduced in any medium without explicit
    written permission of the author. Robin may be reached at
    [email protected].

                              _Hip Dysplasia

  _GSDs are listed as 23rd of 100 breeds having at least 100
  evaluations, tested between January 1974 and January 1995.

German Shepherd Dog:  46,089 tested
                       2.8% tested excellent
                      20.8% tested dysplastic

GSD whelped 1972-80:    2.5% tested excellent
                      20.7% tested dysplastic

GSD whelped 1991-92:    4.1% tested excellent
                      16.8% tested dysplastic

  GSDs reduced the frequency of HD by 10-20% between 1974 and 1995. Only
  4 breeds increased the frequency of HD: Afgan hound, Flat-coated
  Retriever, Kerry Blue Terrier and Komondor.

  _OFA's Recommended Breeding Principals_
   1. Breed normals to normals
   2. Breed normals with normal ancestry
   3. Breed normals from litters with a low incidence of HD
   4. Select a sire that produces a low incidence of HD
   5. Replace dogs with dogs that are better than the breed average

  OFA is especially interested/concerned in HD in littermates. Their
  contention is that a dog with excellent hips that has littermates with
  HD is a poorer breeding prospect than a dog with fair hips whose
  littermates have no HD.

                             _Elbow Dysplasia

  _Sixteen breeds have had at least 75 individuals tested as of December
  31, 1994. These are divided by sex, % dysplastic and % of each grade
  of dysplasia. Because different breeds have different numbers that
  have been tested, it is hard to assign a "most dysplastic" number to
  them. Note: In all breeds, more bitches have been tested than males,
  yet in almost every case, dogs have had a higher incidence of ED.

GSD:  Females:  2940 tested
              18.2% dysplastic...  68.7% Grade I
                                   22.0% Grade II
                                    9.3% Grade III
     Males:    2156 tested
              23.9% dysplastic...  67.2% Grade I
                                   20.9% Grade II
                                   11.8% Grade III

  Grade I: minimal bone change on the aconeal process
  Grade II: additional subchondral bone changes and/or osteophytes
  Grade III: well developed degenerative joint disease

                         _Categories for Dysplasia

_      Normal (receive OFA certification numbers)
            Excellent
            Good
            Fair
     Borderline (recommend repeat study in 6-8 months)
     Dysplastic
            Mild
            Moderate
            Severe

                        _OFA Number Interpretation

  _Numbers are interpreted as follows: _BBBxxxPmmS-T_

  _BBB_
         Breed code

  _xxx_
         Ascending numerical order of normal individuals assigned a
         breed registry number

  _P_
         Phenotypic evaluation (observational evaluation)

  _mm_
         Age in months when evaluation was done

  _S_
         Sex of individual

  _T_
         Tattooed

  Given the example number _EPT100G24M-T_, it would represent:
       EPT - A Pointer
       100 - The 100th Pointer to be evaluated
       G   - Evaluated as Good
       24  - 24 months old at the time of evaluation
       M   - Male
       T   - Tattooed

                  Correction of Anecdotal Misinformation

   1. There are no environmental factors which cause HD.
   2. There is no evidence in the scientific literature that megadoses
      of vitamin C or any other supplement is beneficial in reducing the
      effects of HD. (Note from Robin: other OFA publications indicate
      these megadoses may be harmful.)
   3. High caloric intake resulting in rapid growth and increased weight
      gain may exacerbate changes in dysplastic hips but will not create
      hip dysplasia.
   4. Exercise, running, jumping up and down, and slick floors will not
      cause HD.
   5. Prior injuries to the femurs and/or pelvis may be detected
      radiographically and are taken into account when evaluating hip
      status.

                               Suggestions

   1. _DO YOUR HOMEWORK_: Prospective buyers should check pedigrees for
      OFA numbers prior to purchasing a dog. If an OFA number cannot be
      verified assume the dog to be dysplastic until proven otherwise.
   2. _PRELIMINARY EVALUATIONS_: Can be performed as early as 4-5 months
      of age and OFA evaluations are about 90% accurate when compared to
      follow-ups at 24 months of age.
   3. _ANESTHESIA_: Is not required by OFA but is recommended.
   4. _HORMONAL EFFECT_: Some female dogs show subluxation when
      radiographed around an estrus cycle which is not apparent when
      re-radiographed in anestrus. The OFA recommends radiographing 3-4
      weeks before or after a heat period or 3-4 weeks after weaning a
      litter of pups.
   5. _FILM COPIES_: Due to optical archiving the OFA can no longer
      supply copies of films. If a copy is necessary ask your
      veterinarian to insert 2 films in the cassette prior to making the
      exposure. This will require about a 15% increase in the kVp to
      make an exact duplicate of the radiograph sent to OFA.

  This latest information comes from the pamphlet "Hip Registry".

    _________________________________________________________________

 _Color and Heredity (vj/hs)_

  When people think of GSDs, they think of the "saddleback" markings,
  however GSDs can be one solid color (all white is a conformation
  disqualification for showing) and sable. Sables are noted by
  multi-colored individual hairs, though they may be masked by dark or
  black guard hairs. Coloring patterns include: black & tan, black &
  red, black & cream, black, white (conformation disqualification),
  sable (various colorations), black & silver, liver (rare -
  conformation fault) and blue (rare - conformation fault). The liver
  color is the result of matched recessives in the black series. The
  blue color is the result of matched recessives in the dilution series.
  (hs)

  The following is a summary of color inheritance in the German Shepherd
  based on information from "The German Shepherd Dog: A Genetic History"
  and "Practical Genetics for Dog Breeders", both by Malcom Willis,
  required reading for any serious German Shepherd fan, especially for
  breeders. (vj)

  Color is controlled by several series of genes. Each series is worked
  through in the following:

  (x^y designates ^y as a superscript)

                            _THE AGOUTI SERIES_

  The basic body color is controlled by the genes. The order of
         dominance is:
         a^y ... golden sable
         a^w ... grey sable
         a^s ... saddle marked black and tan
         a^t ... bicolor* black and tan
         a ..... black

  *bicolor is where the dog only has tan on the legs and face, not on
  the body

  The black gene a is recessive to the other colors. Blacks bred to
  blacks will only produce blacks. The sable colors are dominant over
  the other colors.

                             _THE BLACK SERIES_

  This gene controls the black pigment formation.
         BB ... Black pigment including nose, eyerims and pads
         Bb ... Carrier for liver color
         bb ... Liver color - brown black colors, brown nose, eye rims
         and pads.

  Most GSDs are BB.

                             _THE WHITE SERIES_

  White is recessive to all other colors. In order get a white coat
         color, both parents must carry the white gene (either be white
         themselves or be carriers.)
         C ............. Melanin is produced. (Standard GSD's colors
         have this)
         C^ch .......... Partial albinism - chinchilla (not seen)
         C^d ........... White coat with dark eyes and nose (not albino)

         a^yC^chC^ch ... Yellowish coat collar (proposed)

                             _THE COLOR SERIES_

  Controls the intensity of the non-black coloration.
         INT .... Lightest tan (cream)
         int^m .. Intermediate tan (tan)
         int .... Darkest tan (red)

  The intensity of the color series determines whether dogs with color
  (i.e. not all-black or all-white recessives) will be black & cream,
  black & tan or black & red.

                           _THE DILUTION SERIES_

  Controls how intense the black pigment will be.
         D ... Dense pigment
         d ... blue dilution

  Bd ... Black pigment-blue dilution together begets a blue coat which
  looks as though it has a dusty or flour sheen.

                             _THE MASK SERIES_


         E^m .... Produces a black mask on the face
         E ...... Dark coat with no mask
         e^br ... Brindle (rare, will be seen as striping on the legs)
         e ...... Clear tan

  The ee combination affects only the coat and not the nose. The black
  fades to tan. In these dogs, the tail tip will be red, not black.


  Go to Table of Contents
    _________________________________________________________________

 _GSD Standards - AKC (2/11/1978) (hs) and British (cm) Comparisons_

                   ___________________________________

  _NOTE (95/08/08): AKC has decided to challenge the copyright over the
  breed standards. Until this silliness and childish "Mine! Mine!" on
  the part of the AKC is over, the AKC breed standard for the GSD will
  not be printed in either the text or webbed version of the FAQ. There
  are many GSD books on the market that contain the standard, and a copy
  can be obtained from the GSD Club of America. Don't bother buying the
  AKC's book with all the standards if all you want is the GSD standard.
  -HS_

  _NOTE (96/02/14): AKC has come to their senses slightly and put up the
  GSD standard at http://www.akc.org/germshep.htm. Though this doesn't
  allow for an easy comparison, at least it's something. -HS_

                   ___________________________________

  The British Standard was adopted from several translations of the 1976
  SV Standard. The version listed is the "Extended Version" which
  corresponds to the SV standard. The KC has since shortened it and has
  a copyright to their current version.

                            _GENERAL APPEARANCE_

  _AKC_

  _1976 SV_
         The immediate impression of the GSD is of a dog slightly long
         in comparison to its height, with a powerful and well muscled
         body. The relation between height and length and the position
         and symmetry of the limbs (angulation) is so interrelated as to
         enable a far reaching and enduring gait. The coat should be
         weather-proof. A beautiful appearance is desirable, but this is
         secondary to this usefulness as a working dog. Sexual
         characteristics must be well defined - i.e., the masculinity of
         the male and the femininity of the female must be unmistakable.

         True to type GSD gives an impression of innate strength,
         intelligence, and suppleness, with harmonious proportions and
         nothing either over done or lacking. His whole manner should
         make it perfectly clear that he is sound in mind and body, and
         has the physical and mental attributes to make him always ready
         for tireless action as a working dog. With an abundance of
         vitality he must be tractable enough to adapt himself to each
         situation and to carry out his work willingly and with
         enthusiasm. He must possess the courage and determination to
         defend himself, his master, or his master's possessions should
         the need arise. He must be observant, obedient, and a pleasant
         member of the household, quiet in his own environment,
         especially with children and other animals, and at ease with
         adults. Overall he should present a harmonious picture of
         innate nobility, alertness, and self-confidence.

                                _CHARACTER_

  _AKC_

  _1976 SV_
         The main characteristics of the GSD are: steadiness of nerves,
         attentiveness, loyalty, calm self-assurance, alertness and
         tractability, as well as courage with physical resilience and
         scenting ability. These characteristics are necessary for a
         versatile working dog. Nervousness, over-aggressiveness, and
         shyness are very serious faults.

                                   _HEAD_

  _AKC_

  _1976 SV_
         The head should be proportional in size to the body without
         being coarse, too fine, or overlong. The overall appearance
         should be clean cut and fairly broad between the ears. Forehead
         should be only very slightly domed with little or no trace of
         center furrow. Cheeks should form a very softly rounded curve
         and should not protrude. Skull extends from the ears to the
         bridge of the nose tapering gradually and evenly, and blending
         without a too pronounced "stop" into a wedge shaped powerful
         muzzle. ( The skull is approximately 50% of the whole length of
         the head.) Both top and bottom jaws should be strong and well
         developed. The width of the skull should correspond
         approximately to the length. In males the width could be
         slightly greater and in females slightly less than the length.
         Muzzle should be strong with the lips firm, clean and closing
         tightly without any flews. The top of the muzzle is straight
         and almost parallel to the forehead. A muzzle which is too
         short, blunt, weak, pointed, overlong or lacking in strength is
         undesirable.

                                   _EARS_

  _AKC_

  _1976 SV_
         Of medium size, firm in texture, broad at the base, set high,
         they are carried erect (almost parallel and not pulled inward),
         they taper to a point and open toward the front. Tipped ears
         are faulty. Hanging ears are a very serious fault. During
         movement the ears may be folded back.

                                   _EYES_

  _AKC_

  _1976 SV_
         The eyes are medium sized, almond-shaped and not protruding.
         Dark brown eyes are preferred, but eyes of a lighter shade are
         acceptable provided that the expression is good and the general
         harmony of the head not destroyed. The expression should be
         lively, intelligent, and self-assured.

                                  _TEETH_

  _AKC_

  _1976 SV_ (MOUTH and TEETH)
         The jaws must be strongly developed and the teeth healthy,
         strong, and complete. There should be 42 teeth: 20 in the upper
         jaw, 6 incisors, 2 canines, 8 premolars, 4 molars; 22 in the
         lower jaw, 6 incisors, 2 canines, 8 premolars, and 6 molars.
         The GSD has a scissor bite - i.e., the incisors in the lower
         jaw are set behind the incisors in the upper jaw, and thus meet
         in a scissor grip in which part of the surface of the upper
         teeth meet and engage part of the surface of the lower teeth.
         (Full and correct dentition is required for a "V" rating.
         Double p1's are acceptable for a "V" rating so long as
         everything else is correct. A missing p1 or incisor results in
         an "SG" rating. A missing p2 results in a "G" rating. Missing
         incisors are quite rare.)

                                   _NECK_

  _AKC_

  _1976 SV_
         The neck should be fairly long, strong with well-developed
         muscles, free from throatiness (excessive folds of skin at the
         throat) and carried at a 45 degree angle to the horizontal; it
         is raised when excited and lowered at a fast trot.

                               _FOREQUARTERS_

  _AKC_

  _1976 SV_
         The shoulder blade should be long, set obliquely (45 degrees)
         and laid flat to the body. The upper arm should be strong and
         well muscled and joined to the shoulder blade at a near right
         angle (90 degrees). The forelegs, from the pasterns to the
         elbows, should be straight viewed from any angle and the bones
         should be oval rather than round. The pasterns should be firm
         and supple and angulated at approximately 20-23 degrees (from
         the vertical). Elbows neither tucked in nor turned out. Length
         of the forelegs should exceed the depth of chest at a ratio of
         approximately 55% to 45%.

                                   _FEET_

  _AKC_

  _1976 SV_
         Should be rounded, toes well closed and arched. Pads should be
         well cushioned and durable. Nails short, strong, and dark in
         color. Dew claw sometimes found on the hind legs should be
         removed 2-3 days after birth.

                                _PROPORTION_

  _AKC_

  _1976 SV_ (HEIGHT)
         The ideal height (measured to the highest point of the wither)
         is 57.5 cm for females and 62.5 cm for males 2.5 cm either
         above or below the norm is allowed. Any increase in this
         deviation detracts from the workability and breeding value of
         the animal.

                                   _BODY_

  _AKC_

  _1976 SV_
         The length of the body should exceed the height at the wither,
         the correct proportions being at 10 to 9 or 8.5. The length is
         measured from the point of the breast bone to the rear edge of
         the pelvis.

         Over or undersized dogs, stunted growth, high-legged dogs and
         overloaded fronts, too short overall appearance, too light or
         too heavy in build, steep set limbs or any other failure which
         detracts from the reach or endurance of the gait are faulty.

                                  _CHEST_

  _AKC_

  _1976 SV_
         Chest should be deep (45-48% of the height at the shoulder) but
         not too broad. The brisket is long and well developed.

                                   _RIBS_

  _AKC_

  _1976 SV_
         Ribs should be well formed and long, neither barrel-shaped nor
         too flat; correct rib cage allows free movement of the elbows
         when the dog is trotting. A too rounded rib cage will interfere
         and cause the elbows to be turned out. A too flat rib cage will
         lead to the drawing in of the elbows. The desired long ribbing
         gives a proportionately (relatively) short loin.

                                 _ABDOMEN_

  _AKC_

  _1976 SV_
         Belly is firm and only slightly drawn up. Loin broad, strong
         and well muscled.

                                 _TOPLINE_

  _AKC_

  _1976 SV_
         Back is the area between the withers and the croup, straight,
         strongly developed and not too long. The overall length is not
         derived from a long back, but is achieved by the correct angle
         of a well laid shoulder, correct length of croup and
         hindquarters. The withers must be long, of good height and well
         defined. They should join the back in a smooth line without
         disrupting the flowing top line which should be slightly
         sloping from the front to the back. Weak, soft, and roached
         backs are undesirable. (A roach is a clearly defined elevation
         in the center of the back above a horizontal line drawn
         lengthwise at the base of the withers such that the spine
         arches.)

         Croup should be long and gently curving down to the tail
         (approximately 23 degrees) without disrupting the flowing
         topline. The illium and sacrum for the skeletal basis of the
         croup. Short, steep, or flat croups are undesirable.

                                   _TAIL_

  _AKC_

  _1976 SV_
         Bushy haired, should reach at least to the hock joint, the
         ideal length being to the middle of the hock bones. The end is
         sometimes turned sideways with a slight hood; this is allowed
         but not desired. When at rest the tail should hang in a slight
         curve like a sabre. When moving it is raised and the curve
         increased, but ideally it should not be higher than the level
         of the back. A tail that is too short, rolled or curled, or
         generally carried badly or which is stumpy from birth is
         faulty.

                               _HINDQUARTERS_

  _AKC_

  _1976 SV_
         (the leg referenced is the forward hind leg in the stacked
         position) The thighs should be broad and well muscled. The
         upper thigh bone (femur), viewed from the side should slope to
         the slightly longer lower thigh bone. The angulations should
         correspond to the front angulations without being
         over-angulated. The hock bone is strong and together with the
         stifle bone should form a firm hock joint. The hindquarters
         must be strong and well muscled to enable the effortless
         forward propulsion of the whole body. Any tendency toward
         over-angulation of the hindquarters reduces firmness and
         endurance.

                                   _GAIT_

  _AKC_

  _1976 SV_
         The GSD is a trotting dog. His sequence of step therefore
         follows a diagonal pattern in that he always moves the foreleg
         and the opposite hind leg forward at the same time. To achieve
         this, his limbs must be in such balance to one another so that
         he can thrust the hind foot well forward to the midpoint of the
         body and have an equally long reach with the fore foot without
         any noticeable change in the back line. The correct proportion
         of the height to length and corresponding length of limbs will
         produce a ground covering stride that travels flat over the
         ground, giving the impression of effortless movement. With his
         head thrust forward and a slightly raised tail, a balanced and
         even trotter displays a flowing line running from the tips of
         his ears over the neck and back down to the tip of the tail.
         The gait should be supple, smooth, and long reaching, carrying
         the body with the minimum of up and down movement, entirely
         free from stiltiness.

                               _TRANSMISSION_

  _AKC_

  _1976 SV_
         (No corresponding item.)

                                  _COLOR_

  _AKC_

  _1976 SV_
         Black or black saddle with tan, or gold to light grey markings.
         All black, all grey, or grey with lighter or brown markings
         (Sables). Small white marks on the chest or very pale color on
         the inside of the legs are permitted but not desirable. The
         nose in all cases must be black. Light markings on the chest
         and inside legs, as well as whitish nails, red tipped nails or
         wishy-washy faded color are defined as lacking in pigmentation.
         Blues, livers, albinos, whites, are to be rejected. The
         undercoat is, except in all-black dogs, usually grey or fawn in
         color. The color of the GSD is in itself not important and has
         no effect on the character of the dog or on its fitness for
         work and should be a secondary consideration for that reason.
         The final color of a young dog can only be ascertained when the
         outer coat has developed.

                                   _COAT_

  _AKC_

  _1976 SV_
         a) The normal (stock) coated GSD should carry a thick undercoat
         and the outer coat should be as dense as possible, made up of
         straight hard close lying hairs. The hair on the head and ears,
         front of the legs, paws and toes is short. On the neck it is
         longer and thicker, on some males forming a slight ruff. The
         hair grows longer on the back of the legs as far down as the
         pastern and the stifle, and forms fairly thick trousers on the
         hindquarters. There is no hard or fast rule for the length of
         the hair, but short mole-type coats are faulty.

         b) In the long-coated GSD (long stock coat) the hairs are
         longer, not always straight and definitely not lying close and
         flat to the body. They are distinctly longer inside and behind
         the ears, and on the back of the forelegs and usually at the
         loins, and form a moderate tufts in the ears and profuse
         feathering on the back of the legs. The trousers are long and
         thick. Tail is bushy with light feathering underneath. As this
         type of coat is not so weatherproof as the normal coat it is
         undesirable.

         c) In the long open-coated GSD the hair is appreciably longer
         the in the case of the type b and tends to form a parting along
         the back, the texture being somewhat silky. If present at all ,
         undercoat is found only at the loins. Dogs with this type of
         coat are usually narrow chested, with narrow overlong muzzles.
         As the weather protection of the dog and his working ability
         are seriously diminished with this type of coat, it is
         undesirable.

                            _DISQUALIFICATIONS_

  _AKC_

  _1976 SV_ (FAULTS)
         Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a
         fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be
         regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree.

  _1976 SV_ (NOTES)
         All male dogs must have both testicles fully descended into the
         scrotum.


  Go to Table of Contents
    _________________________________________________________________

 _Resources (all)_

                               _Bibliography_

  * indicates highly recommended

  2)_The Book of the German Shepherd Dog_. Anna Katherine Nicholas. TFH
  Publications, Inc., Ltd., 1983. ISBN 0-87666-562-8.

  _Dogwatching_. Desmond Morris. Crown Publishers, 1987. ISBN
  0-51756-519-6.

  _The Essential German Shepherd Dog_. Roy and Clarissa Allan. Ringpress
  Books, Ltd., 1994,1996. ISBN 0-948955-13-9.

  *_The German Shepherd Dog: A Genetic History_. Malcolm B. Willis Ph.D.
  Howell Book House, 1991. ISBN 0-87605-175-1.

    The Willis book is fabulous. It is quite technical, with a good
    deal of material on health problems particular to GSD's. Willis is
    opinionated, and pulls no punches when discussing how the breed has
    developed around the world. A very enjoyable book, and worth every
    penny. (lm)

  _The German Shepherd Today_. Winifred Strickland & James Moses. Howell
  Book House, 1988. ISBN 0-02-614990-7.

  *_How to Be Your Dog's Best Friend_. Monks of New Skete. Little, Brown
  and Co., 1978. ISBN 0-31660-491-7.

    The first of the Monks' two books on raising dogs. See note on "The
    Art of Raising a Puppy". (hs)

  (1) _Pet Owner's Guide to the German Shepherd Dog_. Dr. Malcom B.
  Willis, Howell Book House, 1993, ISBN 0-87605-978-7

  _Schutzhund: Theory and Training Methods_. Susan Barwig and Stewart
  Hilliard. Howell Book House, 1991. ISBN 0-87605-731-8

  *_Schutzhund Obedience: Training in Drive with Gottfried Dildei_.
  Sheila Booth. Podium Publications, 1992.

    (Available from Direct Book Services @ 1-800-776-2665 or from the
    publisher at Dept A, PO Box 171, Ridgefield, CT 06877.) This book
    is an excellent training guide using motivational methods and the
    dog's drives to teach basic obedience. (mc)

  _The Total German Shepherd Dog_. Fred L. Lanting. Alpine Publications,
  Inc. PO Box 7027, Loveland, CO. 1990. ISBN 0-931886-43-X.

  _Tracking Dog, Theory and Methods_. Glen Johnson.

  _Training the German Shepherd Dog_. John Cree. The Crowood Press. ISBN
  1-85223-955-7.

                   ___________________________________

                                _Addresses_

    *
      _The German Shepherd Dog Club of America_
      The GSDCA web page is at http://www.gsdca.org

      30 Far View Road
      Chalmont, PA 18914

      Corresponding Secretary
      Blanche Beisswenger
      17 West Ivy Lane
      Englewood, NJ 07631
    *
      _United Schutzhund Clubs of America (USA)_
      The USA web page is at http://www.igateway.net/~usagsdog/

      3810 Paule Ave.
      St. Louis, MO 63125-1427
      Phone: (314)-638-9686
      Fax: (314)-638-0609

    The USA follows the International Standard for the German Shepherd
    Dog, which is the acknowledged standard in almost every (if not
    every) major western country in the world except the United States
    and Canada. They are also a Breed Registry for German Shepherd
    Dogs, affiliated with the SV in Germany. Dogs registered through
    USA are given both a USA number and an SV number, and the pedigree
    issued is processed by the SV in Germany and looks the same as the
    German pedigree. USA has approximately 4000 members and about 164
    clubs around the country, plus an additional 45 or more clubs which
    are in the process of meeting the requirements for full-fledged
    status. Usually this means they have yet to conduct a Schutzhund
    trial or hold a show. The country is divided into geographical
    regions, and each club is allocated to a given region, under a
    regional director.

    Effective 1 Jan 1996, for litters to be registerable with the USA,
    both parents must be OFA or "A" certified and both parents must
    have a working title.
    *
      _Verein fur Deutsche Schaferhunde (SV)_
      Steinerne Furt 71/71a
      D-86167 Augsburg
      Germany
    *
      _The German Shepherd Dog Club of Canada_
      The GSDCC web page is at
      http://juliet.albedo.net/~gsdcc/index.html
      Mail can be sent to: [email protected]

                   ___________________________________

                            _GSD Mailing Lists_


  _GSD-L Mailing list_

    To get on the GSD-L email list for GSD fanciers, send mail to
    Eric Happy ([email protected])
    with a message about your interests in GSDs. (The list has gone to
    an application system for additions due to some problems with users
    not understanding netiquette.) This list is a high volume list and
    can be chatty.

    There is a web page for GSD-L at
    http://www.gdconsulting.com.au/GSD/gsd-l.html

    If you have questions regarding the mailing list, contact:
    Gareth Davies ([email protected])
    or Eric above.

    Please don't contact me about GSD-L. I can only refer you to the
    information above.


  _GSD-MOD Mailing List_

    There is a semi-moderated GSD mailing list (very low traffic) at
    [email protected]. The command: _SUBSCRIBE GSD-MOD_ should be the
    first and only line of your mail message.

                   ___________________________________

                        _German Shepherd Dog Rescue_

                  compiled by Janice Ritter (MA Rescue)


  _German Shepherd Dog Club of America, Inc._
  Linda Kury, Rescue Committee National Chair
  369 Drake Court
  Santa Clara, CA 95051
  (408) 247-1272

  _AK_
  _German Shepherd Dog Club of Alaska_
  Bonnie Johnson and Christa Burg
  P.O. Box 670266
  Chugiak, AK 99567
  (907) 688-2352

  _AZ_
  _Ron and Margaret Nunnally_
  PO Box 19696
  Happy Jack, AZ (Phoenix area)
  (602) 477-2216

  _CA_
  _German Shepherd Rescue_
  Grace Konosky
  417 N. Moss St.
  Burbank, CA 91502
  (818) 558-7560
  (full service rescue)


  _Monica Royalty_
  (909) 674-8363


  _Pat Stevens_
  (510) 790-9123 (central CA)

  _
  Manuel Madena_
  (714) 491-9177 (southern CA)


  _Linda Baker_
  (805) 297-1002


  _Tracy Beagin_
  (916) 783-6680


  _Dorathy Stansbury_
  4660-Mayapan Dr.
  La Mesa, CA 91941
  (619) 447-6963


  _Analee Nations_
  3420 Luna Av
  San Diego, CA 92117
  (619) 274-8132


  _Jim Silzeira_
  4685 Cheshire St
  San Diego, CA 92117
  (619) 576-1016


  _Trina Nagia Collinwood_
  3061 Grand Av
  Fillmore, CA 93015
  (805) 524-2774
  (full-service rescue)


  _Linda Liederknecht_
  P.O. Box 2067
  Simi Valley, CA 93065
  (805) 522-1016
  (full-service rescue)


  _Julie Priest _
  (510) 778-1638


  _Gerti Duweiss_
  (209) 523-6221


  _Barbara Adcock _
  4444 Lazy Lane
  San Jose, CA 95135
  (408) 274-4444
  (referrals only)


  _Cindy Legrand _
  24 Butcher Lane
  Fieldbrook, CA 95521
  (707) 826-1724
  (referrals only)


  _Lisa Renick _
  4811 Deny Ct.
  Sacramento, CA 95842
  (916) 339-9818
  (referrals)

  _CO_
  _Susan Casey_
  Colorado Springs, CO
  (719) 597-8025


  _Nancy Phelpes_
  Box 213
  Larkspur, CO 80188
  (303) 681-2900

  _CT_
  _German Shepherd Club of Greater New Haven (CT)_
  Roberta
  (203) 795-4910 (New Haven)
  or
  Dorrie Halloway
  (203) 758-3756 (Prospect)


  _Helen Scott _
  46 Hyde St
  Manchester, CT 06040
  (203) 646-4023


  _Catherine A. McDonald_
  18 Stone Mill Rd.
  Storrs, CT 06268
  (203) 487-1213

  _DE_
  _Cynthia Mitchell _
  (302) 875-0756


  _Suzanne Greenholt_
  115 Cardinal Circle
  Hockessin, DE 19707
  (302) 234-3339

  _FL _
  _Linda Novotasky _
  4661 Hedgehog St
  Middleburg, FL 32068) 6455
  (904) 282-8808


  _Irving Polack_
  361 Western Rd.
  New Smyrna, FL 32168
  (904) 423-8662


  _Jim Trejbal_
  P.O. Box 2727
  Jacksonville, FL 32203
  (904) 725-8859


  _Penny Evancic_
  1244 Jamaica Court
  Jacksonville, FL 32216
  (904) 725-9009


  _Susan Armstrong_
  6030 NW 77 Terrace
  Parkland, FL 33067
  (305) 753-5772


  _Diane Roberts_
  11904 McMullen Loop
  Riverview, FL 33569
  (813) 671-2913
  A full service rescue

  _GA _
  _Janet Berwick_
  (706) 636-2621


  _Mike Protocas_
  Marietta, GA
  (404) 587-5248
  (referrals)


  _Dana F. Everles_
  (404) 926-6366

  _ID _
  _Sharon Thomas_
  Rt. 1, Box 123
  Priest River, ID 83856
  (208) 448-2787

  _IL _
  _German Shepherd Rescue_
  Liz Vahlcamp
  (314) 863-1467
  full service rescue


  _Janet Ingalls_
  St. Charles, IL 60175
  (708) 377-2919
  referrals


  _German Shepherd Rescue_
  Jackie Brandt
  Rt. 1, Box 253
  Mokena, IL 60448
  (815) 485-2052
  full service rescue

  _IN _
  _Deanna Lugo_
  841 Hoffman
  Hammond, IN 46320
  (219) 932-8424 (home) or 219-853-6516 (office)


  _Laurie Tatum_
  96 E. 800 N
  Lake Village, IN 46349
  (219) 345-5540
  full service rescue; owner surrenders only

  _LA _
  _Joan R. Morehead_
  PO Box 5024
  Shreveport, LA 71115
  (318) 797-5982
  referrals

  _ME _
  _Adroscoggins GSD Club of Maine_
  Winnie And Norman York
  (referrals)
  (207) 797-4387
  (207) 469-7628


  _Joyce Gagnon_
  RFD 3 Box 433
  Wiscasset, ME 04578
  (207) 882-7470
  (full service rescue)

  _MD_ (See VA also for DC area rescues)
  _Risa Lapidow_
  (301) 441-2461


  _Margaret Scaife_
  Jeff Dr., Box 185-19
  Waldorf, MD 20603
  (301) 843-0966
  full service rescue


  _Gayle Arrington_
  Prince Frederick, MD
  (410) 535-1999
  (703) 440-6125
  (referrals)

  _MA _
  _Janice Ritter_
  (617) 290-0710 (days)
  (referrals)


  _Westledge GSD Rescue_
  John Hire/Patty Lacroix
  Western MA
  (413) 967-8361


  _Ann Thompson_
  (413) 323-5968


  _Debbie Hokkanen_
  GSDCA Regional Rescue Contact
  (508) 852-4473

  _MI _
  _Gail Gray_
  1500 Sylvan Rd.
  Chelsea, MI 48118
  (313) 475-3570
  (referrals)


  _Kathleen Holcomb_
  21500 Wasson Rd.
  Gregory, MI 48137
  (517) 223-9863
  (referrals)

  _MN _
  _German Shepherd Dog Club of Minneapolis-St. Paul_
  Marilyn Lindsey-Miller
  210 Kindross, P.O. Box 574
  Willenie, MN 55090
  (612) 426-3682
  (referrals)


  _Pat Peterson_
  (612) 461-2743


  _Bert Haagenstad_
  4361 Welcome Ave N.
  Crystal, MN 55422
  (612) 535-6339

  _MS _
  _Cindy Bailye_
  581 Walker Lane
  Raymond, MS 39154
  (601) 857-5373

  _MO _
  _German Shepherd Rescue_
  Anne Mackey
  Kansas City, MO
  (816) 363-0121


  _Karen Waggoner_
  Ozark, MO
  (417) 485-6946

  _NV _
  _German Shepherd Dog Club of S. Nevada_
  Betty Zapatka
  5409 Avendia Vaquero
  Las Vegas, NV 89108
  (702) 645-2721


  _Dottie Newell_
  (702) 425-2103

  _NH _
  _Ellamea and Rex Jones_
  (603) 228-6819 (NH)
  Referral only (for now)


  _German Shepherd Rescue_
  Stu and Karen Randall
  Goffstown, NH
  (603) 497-3472


  _Wendy Luba_
  Mt. Vernon, NH 03057
  (603) 673-6426


  _Emily St. Hilaire_
  Ware, NH 03281
  (603) 529-2458

  _NJ _
  _Jodi Caizza_
  (201) 928-9786


  _Kim Dislonde_
  (201) 743-8885


  _Iza Kabuska_
  RD2 Box 364
  Andover, NJ 07821
  (201) 398-1393
  full service rescue


  _Donna Petrosia_
  P.O. Box 903
  Jackson, NJ
  (908) 370-3795


  _German Shepherd Rescue_
  Christy Shore
  Leesburg, NJ
  (609) 785-9728


  _Kim_
  Rutherford, NJ
  (201) 935-7076
  Rotties and GSDs


  _German Shepherd Rescue, Inc of PA (see below)_
  Southern NJ
  (609) 985-4725


  _Lacy's Shepherd Rescue_
  Donna Petroisie
  Jackson, NJ
  (908) 370-3795

  _NM _
  _Central New Mexico GSDC_
  Kathy Gonsey
  429 Shirk Ln SW
  Albuguerque, NM 87105
  H: (505) 877-7352
  W: (505) 877-8370
  full service rescue

  _NY _
  _Ritter Hof Kennel_
  Mary and Kitty Cummings
  810 E. Maine Rd.
  Johnson City, NY 13790
  (607) 729-2718


  _German Shepherd Rescue_
  Risa Stein
  Rocky Pt, NY
  (516) 744-3258


  _Anne Marie Stedman_
  (914) 756-4165


  _Donna Blair_
  Pottersville, NY 12860
  (518) 251-3959


  _Margaret C. Patterson_
  Macedon, NY
  (315) 524-4126

  _NC _
  _German Shepherd Dog Rescue_
  Debbie and Jim Rafalowski
  Raleigh, NC
  (919) 467-4698
  internet:[email protected]
  full service rescue


  _Steve and Anita Holton_
  Raleigh, NC
  (referrals)
  (919) 774-6384

  _OH _
  _German Shepherd Rescue_
  Elizabeth Stidham
  Eaton, OH 45320
  (513) 456-5393


  _Dennis Barker_
  17 Tyler St.
  Toledo, OH 43612
  (419) 476-3899


  _Dr. Bonnie Huffman_
  8591 Kennard Rd.
  P.O. Box 4
  Lodi, OH 44254
  (216) 948-4101

  _OK _
  _German Shepherd Rescue_
  Lynn Seals
  404 Airport Rd.
  Broken Box, OK 74728
  (405) 584-7664

  _PA _
  _German Shepherd Rescue, Inc of PA_
  Nancy Aiosa (717) 586-9064
  Diane Reppy (717) 943-2055
  Sue Bunnell (717) 388-6959
  Charlotte Williams (717) 943-2624


  _German Shepherd Rescue_
  Nadine Miller
  1 West Crestlyn Drive
  York, PA 17402
  (717) 741-0286


  _Kim Carr_
  PO Box 93
  New Columbia, PA 17856
  (717) 568-0567


  _Colleen Baker_
  1168 Dogwood Lane
  Quakertown, PA 18951
  (215) 538-3201


  _German Shepherd Rescue_
  Carol and Wendall Larson
  RD1 Box 415
  UpperBlack Eddy, PA 18972
  (215) 294-9216


  _Jennifer and Tom Buck_
  RD2 Box 2821P
  Hamburg, PA 19526
  (215) 320-4000

  _SC _
  _GSD Rescue_
  Carl Makins
  (803) 232-9125

  _TN _
  _Laura Hamrick_
  233 Burch Road
  Clarksville, TN 37042
  (615) 431-4561
  (White GSD emphasis, but sometimes has others)

  _TX _
  _Marci Linn_
  (817) 847-1126


  _German Shepherd Dog Club of Dallas_
  Connie Irwin
  (214) 530-1568 referrals
  or
  EJ Murphy
  (817) 481-1753 referrals


  _German Shepherd Dog Club of Houston_
  Adoptive Assistance
  Tom Landry
  (713) 251-0403 (Houston area)


  _German Shepherd Dog Club of Fort Worth_
  Lee Rugeri
  Roanoke, TX
  (817) 431-9163
  (referrals)


  _Sherry Wallis_
  725 E. Creekside
  Houston, TX 77024
  (713) 465-9729

  _VT _


  _Ian McLean_
  Starksboro, VT
  (802) 482-3932


  _David McCarthy_
  Burlington, VT
  (802) 899-3559


  _Bonnie Capron_
  Arlington, VT
  (802) 375-6057

  _VA_ (See also MD for DC area rescues)


  _Betsy Brown_
  Oragne, VA
  (703) 854-7840
  referrals


  _Julie Duhn_
  200 Gravel Ridge Rd.
  Waynesboro, VA 22980


  _Larry Spivak_
  9200 Dorothy Lane
  Springfield, VA
  (703) 451-9046


  _Gloria Shelton_
  (703) 659-1400


  _Debbie Day_
  (703) 895-9047

  _WA _


  _GSD Rescue_
  Margaret LaTour
  P.O. Box 3523
  Redmond, WA 98073
  (206) 762-4504
  (full service rescue)

  _WV _


  _James Breon_
  Petersburg, WV
  (304) 257-4638

  _WI _


  _Carol Overguard_
  Cambridge, WI 53523
  (608) 423-4456

                   ___________________________________

                                 _Breeders_

  The best resources to find breeders in good standing are the various
  parent clubs. This list is currently under construction.

                   ___________________________________

                             _Other Resources_
              This section is currently under construction.

  _Police K-9 Magazines_


  _The Police K-9 Recruiter_
  PO Box 1263
  Monroe, WA 98272
  (360)568-8870

    Subscriptions are free to sworn active law enforcement officers.
    Just fax a business card or letter on department letterhead
    requesting one. Isues are sent to departments only. Officers
    wanting issues mailed to their residence must pay the regular
    subscription fee of $29.95.

                   ___________________________________

  If you have favorite magazines, videos or books about GSDs that are
  not mentioned here, please send mail to: [email protected]

    _________________________________________________________________

  _German Shepherd Dog FAQ
  Holly [email protected]
  Copyright (c) 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997 Holly Lee Stowe_
    _________________________________________________________________

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