.-') _ .-') _ | |
( OO ) ) ( OO ) ) | |
.-----. ,--./ ,--,' ,--./ ,--,' | |
' .--./ | \ | |\ | \ | |\ | |
| |('-. | \| | )| \| | ) | |
/_) |OO )| . |/ | . |/ | |
|| |`-'| | |\ | | |\ | | |
(_' '--'\ | | \ | | | \ | | |
`-----' `--' `--' `--' `--' | |
lite.cnn.com - on gopher - inofficial | |
ARTICLE VIEW: | |
‘Every turn reveals something new’: Hiking Southern Utah’s | |
stunning slot canyons | |
By Erika Oreskovich, CNN | |
Updated: | |
8:00 AM EDT, Sat June 7, 2025 | |
Source: CNN | |
At first glance, the desert landscape of Southern Utah seems like a | |
sweeping, sun-baked canvas — wide open and endless. But tucked deep | |
within its sandstone folds are narrow slivers of magic: slot canyons, | |
sculpted over millennia by wind and rushing water. | |
They draw hikers from around the world, eager to wander their | |
labyrinthine paths and stand in awe beneath towering walls sometimes | |
just feet apart. But as alluring as they are, these canyons demand more | |
than admiration. They require preparation and a healthy respect for | |
nature’s power. | |
“Slot canyons are fun and easy … until they’re not,” says Jim | |
Clery, owner and guide at Utah Canyon Outdoors in Escalante, Utah. | |
“You have to know when to say no.” | |
A different kind of hiking | |
Slot canyon hiking blends beauty, problem-solving and risk. | |
“It’s not just walking,” says Lura Snow, deputy operations | |
manager for Wildland Trekking in Utah. “There’s often scrambling, | |
navigating tight squeezes, standing water — and an otherworldly | |
quality of light that feels like you’ve stepped into a secret | |
place.” | |
Before any of that begins, there’s often a stretch of open desert | |
hiking to reach the canyon itself. Exposed to sun and heat, these | |
approaches can be deceivingly difficult. | |
“You’re not just hopping out of the car and into the canyon,” | |
Clery notes. “Some routes require miles of walking through dry washes | |
or sandy trails before you even get to the slot. It’s part of the | |
journey.” | |
For many, slot canyons evoke a sense of awe and curiosity. “There’s | |
a real sense of discovery,” says Clery. “Every turn reveals | |
something new.” | |
Orientation and options in Buckskin Gulch | |
About an hour’s drive east of Kanab, Utah, Buckskin Gulch — | |
believed by many to be the longest and deepest slot canyon in the US, | |
and possibly the world — draws hikers with its immense scale and | |
towering canyon walls. Stretching for approximately 16 miles through a | |
twisting corridor of sandstone, its walls can reach heights of 300 feet | |
while narrowing to shoulder-width in places. | |
There are a few ways to hike Buckskin Gulch, depending on how far you | |
want to go. The most popular starting point is the Wire Pass Trailhead, | |
which offers the quickest access to the narrows. From here, you have | |
two main options. | |
For those up for an overnightYou can hike all the way through Buckskin | |
Gulch to the White House Trailhead — a roughly 21-mile point-to-point | |
trek. This route starts at Wire Pass Trailhead and travels the length | |
of Buckskin Gulch, approximately 16 miles, before reaching its | |
confluence with Paria Canyon. | |
While camping is not allowed inside Buckskin Gulch, you can set up camp | |
once you reach Paria Canyon, where dispersed backcountry camping is | |
allowed with a valid overnight permit. Because the trail begins and | |
ends at two different locations, arrange a shuttle in advance to return | |
to the starting point. | |
For a shorter, more accessible optionMany hikers choose an out-and-back | |
route starting at the Wire Pass Trailhead. The trail follows a wash for | |
about 1.7 miles before entering Buckskin Gulch, where towering walls | |
and deepening narrows stretch for miles. | |
Just inside Buckskin, you’ll find petroglyphs etched into the rock | |
— look low on the right as you enter. Most hikers continue a short | |
way into Buckskin before turning around, making this route a rewarding | |
and flexible way to experience the canyon’s scale and beauty without | |
committing to the full 21-mile trek. | |
Recreation.gov advises Buckskin Gulch hikers to check weather | |
conditions and river flow before setting out. Leave your itinerary with | |
a reliable contact who will know who to call if your group doesn’t | |
return on time. | |
If Buckskin feels intimidating, there are other places to begin. | |
Beginner-friendly alternatives | |
The Peek-A-Boo and Spooky Gulch loop near Escalante, Utah, in the Grand | |
Staircase-Escalante National Monument is one of the most popular | |
beginner-friendly options. This three-mile route winds through sculpted | |
sandstone, with playful climbs, squeezes and narrow passages — but no | |
technical gear required. | |
Peek-A-Boo greets you with smooth, swirling walls and natural steps, | |
while Spooky Gulch challenges you with tight corridors where backpacks | |
— and sometimes bodies — need to shimmy sideways to get through. | |
The trickiest obstacle is a 12-foot climb to enter Peek-A-Boo, but | |
solid handholds and good footing make it manageable. Because it’s a | |
loop, you can explore both canyons without backtracking. | |
For those who want to ease into slot canyon hiking — or simply leave | |
the logistics to someone else — guided trips offer an excellent | |
alternative. Companies like Utah Canyon Outdoors and Wildland Trekking | |
provide safety, gear, route knowledge and local insights, making it | |
easier to focus on the experience without the stress of navigating on | |
your own. | |
Flash floods and fatal mistakes | |
Slot canyons are carved by water — and can be flooded by it in an | |
instant. “People hear ‘flash flood’ and think giant walls of | |
water,” says Snow. “But even a relatively small amount can be | |
deadly.” | |
The danger? Many hikers only check the weather at the trailhead. But | |
flash floods can be triggered by storms miles away. Buckskin Gulch, for | |
example, drains from the Paunsaugunt Plateau near Bryce Canyon over 100 | |
miles away, meaning a storm there can send water cascading through the | |
canyon long after skies clear near the entrance. | |
“Check the weather for the entire drainage,” says Snow. “Not just | |
where you’re standing.” | |
Flash floods have caused fatalities in recent years, including two | |
hikers who died in Buckskin Gulch in 2023. | |
Even experienced hikers can be caught off guard by storms miles away. | |
“You might have blue skies above you,” says Snow, “but if it’s | |
raining 50 miles away, that water can still come barreling through.” | |
Not just water: Other hazards and surprises | |
Slot canyons may feel still and silent, but they’re full of | |
surprises. Their shady, sheltered walls offer refuge for desert | |
wildlife — from rattlesnakes and insects to the occasional tarantula. | |
“Slot canyons are shady places, so wildlife takes refuge there,” | |
Snow explains. She once joked about tarantulas “raining from the | |
sky,” but it’s usually just a spider dropping from a ledge — | |
startling, not dangerous. (Tarantulas aren’t considered dangerous to | |
humans; their bite is mild and rarely causes more than minor | |
irritation.) While rare, these encounters are reminders to stay alert | |
and tread thoughtfully. | |
Then there’s the terrain: narrow passages, slick rock and puddles | |
that can be deeper than expected, sometimes even requiring a swim. | |
Water hazards and the occasional patch of quicksand are also possible, | |
especially after storms. | |
Trekking poles help with balance and testing depth, and sturdy shoes | |
— and a sense of humor — go a long way. “Some people turn around | |
at the first puddle,” Snow says. “But if this is your | |
once-in-a-lifetime chance? Get in the puddle.” | |
Clery adds that most injuries come from people hopping off short | |
ledges. “Even a two-foot jump can lead to a twisted ankle. If | |
you’re wedged in a narrow canyon with a busted leg, getting out | |
becomes a whole new problem.” | |
When to go — and when to turn back | |
Spring and late fall are generally the safest times to visit. Summer | |
monsoon season (late July through September) can bring flash floods, | |
especially in places like Buckskin. Even in dry months, storms can | |
build quickly. | |
“Start early,” says Clery. “In summer, we’re on the trail by | |
6:30 a.m.. That gives us time to get in and out before the heat and | |
storms hit.” | |
And if the weather — or your gut — says something feels off? “Be | |
flexible,” he says. “Have a Plan B. Nature gets the final word.” | |
Planning, permits and prep | |
A little homework goes a long way. Try to narrow down what kind of | |
experience you’re after — short and scenic, longer and challenging, | |
guided or solo. | |
Check with local Bureau of Land Management (BLM) offices, visitor | |
centers, outdoor shops or guide services for advice and current | |
conditions. And grab a paper map — cell service can be unreliable, | |
and batteries die. | |
Permits are required for both day hikes and overnight trips in the | |
Buckskin and Paria Canyon area, and both are available through | |
Recreation.gov. A $6 day-use permit covers hikes like the popular Wire | |
Pass route, while overnight trips into Paria Canyon require a separate | |
permit, limited to 20 people per day. Spots can fill fast, so it’s | |
smart to plan ahead. | |
Be sure to pack plenty of water — at least one liter per hour in | |
summer — plus salty snacks, sun protection, a basic first-aid kit and | |
blister care. | |
“Desert hiking is slow, and you need to prepare for extra time,” | |
Clery says. “We measure canyons in hours, not miles.” | |
Leave no trace | |
The rise in slot canyon popularity has brought an uptick in damage, | |
from graffiti on petroglyphs to improperly buried waste. | |
“People have carved their names over 8,000-year-old rock art,” Snow | |
says. “It’s ignorance, not malice, but it’s heartbreaking.” | |
Snow urges hikers to carry wag bags for human waste, use Kula cloths | |
(reusable antimicrobial pee cloths), and pack out everything — | |
especially toilet paper and your own poop. “Nothing breaks down | |
here,” she says. “It’s the desert. It’ll be here forever.” | |
Your decisions can have unintended consequences long after you leave. | |
Even camping comes with a lasting impact. A single off-road vehicle can | |
create a new track others will follow, slowly turning wild land into a | |
road. | |
Clery’s advice? Stick to established sites. Stay on durable surfaces. | |
And if you really love a place, pick up someone else’s trash on your | |
way out. | |
Because in the end, exploring slot canyons isn’t just about seeing | |
something beautiful — it’s about being part of something bigger. | |
It’s about traveling with intention, moving with care, and respecting | |
the delicate power of these hidden places. | |
But wherever you go, says Clery, “Don’t expect to just show up and | |
be spoon-fed a view. Slot canyons are immersive. They’re humbling. | |
They make you pay attention — and in return, they give you something | |
unforgettable.” | |
<- back to index |