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lite.cnn.com - on gopher - inofficial | |
ARTICLE VIEW: | |
Dress Codes: Fashion’s most playful print has a fascinating history | |
By Natalie Hammond, CNN | |
Updated: | |
11:13 AM EDT, Tue August 26, 2025 | |
Source: CNN | |
When Princess Diana arrived at the Royal Ascot in 1988, she turned | |
heads in a polka-dot dress that was perfectly coordinated to her saucer | |
hat. More than three decades later, at the popular horse racing event, | |
Catherine, Princess of Wales, drew comparisons to her late | |
mother-in-law in a similar dress. This one, by designer Alessandra | |
Rich, was high-necked and ruffled but also bore the timeless spotted | |
motif. | |
Polka dots have maintained their popularity throughout fashion history, | |
and in recent months, seem to be everywhere. At the July world premiere | |
of “Weapons” in Los Angeles, the actor Julia Garner wore a | |
one-shoulder, micro-dotted gown from Gucci’s Cruise 2026 collection. | |
A day earlier, Rose Byrne attended the season two premiere of | |
“Platonic” wearing a strapless black and white polka dot dress, | |
with some dots in the shape of teardrops, by the Antwerp-based label | |
Bernadette. | |
Hailey Bieber has also gotten the spotty memo, having been photographed | |
spending her summer in polka-dot capri pants. Music duo Rihanna and | |
A$AP Rocky’s recently shared love for polka dots (in particular, a | |
custom polka dot tie by Californian fashion label ERL) prompted Vogue | |
to deem it “.” Meanwhile, at Copenhagen Fashion Week in August, | |
show-goers seemed to favor the print above the usual suspects — | |
florals, stripes and leopard spots — with several completing their | |
looks with dotted neck ties, windbreakers, blazers, bloomer shorts or | |
bandanas. | |
So prominent are polka dots today that social media site Pinterest | |
named the print as among . “Polka dot outfits” were up 1,026% from | |
the previous year, while “polka dot nails” grew 1,296%, according | |
to the platform. | |
A spotty past | |
The radical shift from hand to machine during the Industrial Revolution | |
made it possible to create “perfectly round and evenly spaced dots | |
for the first time,” according to Georgina Ripley, principal curator | |
of modern and contemporary design at National Museums Scotland. “As | |
the vogue for patterned fabrics thus increased in the 19th century, it | |
coincided around the 1840s with the Czech Polka dance craze gathering | |
steam across Europe and in the United States. The Polka name was | |
attached to several trending items but stuck in the context of the | |
textile pattern,” she told CNN. | |
Centuries earlier in the Middle Ages, however, spots of any kind were | |
treated with suspicion. “Due to the visual similarities shared with | |
sores caused by diseases such as the plague, leprosy, smallpox, | |
syphilis, and measles, dots held much more ominous associations with | |
poor health, contagion and uncleanliness,” said Ripley. | |
By the early 19th century, associations of the polka dot improved as | |
“a more effective rendering” of the pattern made it “synonymous | |
with manmade textiles and therefore with modernity,” said Ripley. | |
People wanted to wear clothes at the cutting edge, which gave dotty | |
fabrics woven by machine a natural fanbase among the society ladies who | |
could afford them. On a so-called “fashion plate” from 1827, which | |
forms part of the collection at the Genesee Country Village & Museum in | |
Mumford, New York, a woman has been illustrated wearing a | |
pink-and-black polka-dot frock with puffs at the wrist and tiers at the | |
hem. | |
In the 1920s, polka dots experienced a boom, explained Ripley, thanks | |
in part to Norma Smallwood, 1926’s Miss Oklahoma and winner of the | |
Miss America pageant that same year, who wore a spotted bathing suit | |
during the competition. Two years later, the print received another | |
ringing endorsement. “That Walt Disney debuted Minnie Mouse in 1928 | |
dressed in a red polka dot dress and matching bow is testament to its | |
place in 1920s popular culture,” said Ripley. | |
From then on, the polka dot can be seen in pop culture of every | |
subsequent decade, observed Ripley. In the 1942 film “Woman of the | |
Year,” Katharine Hepburn’s pantsuit featuring black and white polka | |
dots is one of the most memorable fashion moments from the movie. (The | |
outfit, along with her other tailored suits, contributed to Hepburn’s | |
memorable on-screen style and helped solidify her reputation as a | |
fashion icon.) Dots were also worn by “Marilyn Monroe in the 1950s, | |
Twiggy in 1960s Mod culture, Princess Diana in the 1980s, and Julia | |
Roberts in the polo match scene in “Pretty Woman” (1990),” said | |
Ripley. | |
They’ve also been a source of inspiration for brands. Comme des | |
Garçons Play, founded by Japanese designer Rei Kawakubo, has turned | |
dotty tees (and high-top trainers) into cult fashion commodities. The | |
Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama, meanwhile, has built a life’s work | |
around an exploration of polka dots. Her first collaboration with Louis | |
Vuitton in 2012 saw primary-colored spots daubed across the French | |
brand’s monogrammed bags. | |
The pattern has also left its mark on the high street. Of all the viral | |
summer dresses of the past decade, Zara’s 2019 polka dot sensation (a | |
long-sleeved print dress that cost $50) is among the most recognized, | |
partly thanks to its social media presence on Instagram. Between 2019 | |
and 2021, a dedicated account, @, documented widespread sightings of | |
the dress. | |
Contemporary visions | |
Polka dots have been cycling in and out of fashion — though, since | |
the Spring-Summer 2025 shows, where labels including Valentino and | |
Carolina Herrera sent a glorious array of polka dots down the runway, | |
they’ve had a resurgence. For Fall-Winter 2025, Dries Van Noten, Nina | |
Ricci, Sandy Liang, Schiaparelli and Rokh offered their own takes on | |
the print. Dots also featured in — the debut of new designer Michael | |
Rider — where it featured as a trim on the neckline of a gown to a | |
swatch on a full skirt. | |
In 2025, the polka dot’s versatility is still its greatest asset. | |
“They can be bold or subtle, playful or elegant, depending on how | |
they’re used,” said Katie Ruensumran, a creative consultant and | |
polka-dot aficionado. Offering styling advice, she said: “It’s all | |
about contrast and scale. I like mixing oversized polka dots with | |
stripes or other pattern pieces — it keeps the look graphic and bold. | |
Accessories are also a fun way to play. The key is balance.” | |
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