Conference: SHORTWAVE Date: 1/28/1992 From: DAVID MOISAN
THE CARPET LOOP II -- A High Performance Indoor Antenna
-------------------------------------------------------
Designed by David Moisan
Introduction:
-------------
There are many shortwave listeners who can't, because of location,
infirmity or a unyielding landlord, put up an outside antenna. Such
people are given two choices--random wire or active antenna. Yet,
for the serious listener, neither choice is completely adequate.
Active antennas are expensive, apt to generate as much noise as
signal, and are prone to overload. Random wires are cheap (cheapest,
in fact) and easy to put up, but are unpredictable performers. Both
subject the receiver to intermod, spurious signals and other trash.
The Carpet Loop II is an ideal step upward for the listener who
wants something better than a random wire but doesn't want the
expensive dice roll of an active antenna.
The Carpet Loop is made up of two components: A tuner, and the
antenna cable itself; the cable can be either 5-conductor rotator
cable or 4-conductor flat phone cable, both readily available from
Radio Shack and elsewhere. The tuner couples the antenna to the
radio, forming a (giant!) L-network. To tune the antenna, you turn a
switch for best reception.
While NO antenna can give a cheap receiver the sensitivity,
selectivity, or dynamic range it never had, the Carpet Loop will help
you get the last ounce of performance out of your radio.
Two years ago, I was using a random wire. I had severe problems
with a local AM station (2 miles away) on 1230 Khz. I was hearing
intermod from it all over the 9 to 12 Mhz range.
With the Carpet Loop (which was then just the cable), the
interference was almost completely gone. Also, the signals I was
receiving seemed to be just a little bit stronger. A year later,
I built the tuner, with much better results. I'm convinced I have
the best possible antenna for my location.
If you're stuck in an apartment, if you have a portable like the
Sony 2010, the Sangean 803A or the Radio Shack DX400 or 440, if you
have a tabletop receiver, the Carpet Loop may be for you. It's
cheap--around $25 in parts from Radio Shack, *much* less if you shop
around, and an excellent first project for the technically minded.
From Radio
SCHEMATIC AND PARTS LIST
Gnd. Ant.
S1 1 pole 6 position ! !
rotary switch ! D1 !
(RS# 275-1386) !---->I----!
+----------*----I<----!
C1 365 pf variable ! ! D2 !
capacitor (see ! ! !
text) ! o o ! #A
S2 SPST switch ! \ !
--- S2 \ --- C1
D1, D2 1N914 silicon ||| o ---
switching diodes (Earth ! !
(RS# 276-112) Gnd.) ! ! #B
! !
J1, J2 6-position terminal ! !
strip (RS#274-357) +G-o <---o----+
!
Antenna cable: ! o S1 o
! !E !A
5-conductor rotator J1 ! ! o o ! J2
cable (RS#15-1201) ! ! !D o !B !
(see text) 1 |o|----* ! ! !C ! !
2 |o|-------*--!--!--!--!-----|o| 6
Miscellaneous: 3 |o|----------*--!--!--!-----|o| 7
4 |o|-------------*--!--!-----|o| 8
Aluminum enclosure, 5 |o|----------------*--!-----|o| 9
spade lugs, connector |o| (not used) *-----|o| 10
and cable to radio (not used)|o|
(see text), knobs <- To Antenna ->
Note on Schematic symbols:
!
-*- means: Intersecting wires are connected
!
!
-!- means: Intersecting wires NOT connected
!
How it works
------------
S1, C1, and the antenna cable connected to J1 and J2 form an L-
network; when S1 is switched between positions A through F, and C1's
capacitance is varied, the impedance of the antenna system changes.
When S1 and C1 are adjusted for best signal, the impedance between
antenna and receiver is matched. D1 and D2 provide protection against
static discharges. The G position of S1 grounds the antenna when not
in use. S2 disconnects the ground from the antenna, making the antenna
into a random wire.
BUILDING THE TUNER
------------------
PARTS AVAILABILITY:
With the exception of C1, all parts for the tuner are readily
available from Radio Shack. C1, the 365 pf variable capacitor, can be
gotten out of an old radio.
SUBSITUTIONS:
There are no critical parts in the tuner; as long as S1 has at
least six positions, it will do. D1 and D2 can be any silicon
diode. Use any enclosure that's big enough to comfortably
install components in.
The choice for J3, the jack to the receiver, depends on what
connector your radio uses for an external antenna. I used an SO-239
(RS #278-201); you could also use a TV antenna terminal strip
(RS#274-663).
STEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS:
1) Mount the components on the enclosure you'll be using--all wiring
is point to point. I suggest mounting J1 and J2 on opposite sides, S1
and C1 on top, and J3 on the other end of the enclosure.
2) Wire S1 to J1 and J2. If you use the Radio Shack DP6T rotary
switch, you'll be using just one of the poles. The diagram of the
switch is below:
D C
S1 DP6T rotary E o o B
switch G o o A
| o o |
Viewing from P |o o|
bottom of switch | o o |
o o
o o
Wire as follows:
(Note: If you're using the Radio Shack terminal strip, you will need
to drill a hole in the cabinet to pass the wires through from inside.
Use a rubber grommet to keep the wires from fraying)
S1 Term. --to--> J1 term. J1 term. --to--> J2 term.
A #1 #2 #6
B #2 #3 #7
C #3 #4 #8
D #4 #5 #9
E #5
Connect a wire from J2 terminal #10 to the G terminal on S1, and
this step is done.
IF YOUR RADIO HAS AN ANTENNA TRIMMER CONTROL, SKIP TO STEP 4.
3) Install and wire C1. Connect one terminal of C1 to the P
terminal on S1. Connect the other end to J3. If using the SO239 or
phono jack, connect to the center conductor. If using screw
terminals, connect to terminal #1 on J3. Skip ahead to step 5.
4) Connect the P terminal of S1 to J3. If you're using the SO239 or
phono jack, connect to the center conductor. If you're using screw
terminals, connect to terminal #1 on J3.
5) Connect the G terminal on S1 to J3. Connect it to the ground
shield if it's an SO239 or phono jack, or to terminal #2 if it's
screw terminals.
6) Connect D1 and D2 across J3's terminals; remember that D2 is
connected opposite of D1.
That completes construction of the tuner.
ANTENNA CONSTRUCTION
TYPE OF CABLE:
The kind of cable you use depends on where you're putting it and
and how much you want to pay for the cable.
If you plan on running it under carpet, then use the 5-conductor
rotator cable mentioned in the parts list. This cable can easily
withstand being stepped on; more importantly, there are no exposed
wires to trip over. It's also easier to wire than phone cable.
If you're not running it underfoot, or if you're cheap, you can
use 4-conductor flat phone cable, available nearly everywhere. It's
a good choice for running around baseboards, around windows or in attics.
When running the cable around, start at your receiver and go around
the room--or the house--and back to the radio. If you're using
the rotator cable, you can make corners by folding the cable at a 45
degree angle, like folding paper.
WIRING THE CABLE TO THE TUNER:
You should have two ends of the cable next to the tuner. Strip
the ends and put spade lugs on all the wires. With the rotator cable,
mark the *silver* conductor.
Next, connect the wire to the tuner using the following diagrams:
FOR 5-CONDUCTOR ROTATOR CABLE FOR 4-CONDUCTOR PHONE CABLE
J1 J2 J1 J2
1 1
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0 1 2 3 4_5 6 7 8 9_0
^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^
Wire S C C C C S C C C C B Y R G B Y R G
colors
(4&5 jumpered) (9&10 jumpered)
Run a wire--preferably a large one--from the ground terminal on
the tuner (or a mounting screw on the SO239 connector if you're using
one) to a suitable ground such as a cold water pipe; I grounded my
tuner with a short length of RG58 coax connected to a baseboard heater
via an alligator clip.
Connect the tuner to your receiver; you are now ready to use it.
Operating instructions are in the next message.
USING THE CARPET LOOP
It's easier to use than to talk about: Tune your receiver to the
desired frequency. Adjust S1 and C1 (or the antenna trimmer on the
radio) for strongest signal. That's it.
CONCLUSION
The Carpet Loop II is an inexpensive, easily built, high
performance antenna that can work in almost all apartments.
(Comments and flames welcomed here...)
---Dave Moisan
Origin: Tom's BBS * Milton, MA (617-698-8649) (1:101/470)
Conference: SHORTWAVE Date: 1/31/1992 From: J.J. HITT
EB> How can I rig up one of those indoor antenas for my
EB> shortwave DX-440. I don't have alot of room or money, so I
EB> am looking for a cheap way to do it got any ideas?
EB> Eddie
How about the "Carpet Loop" ?
So named because it can be hidden under the carpet (I have mine on the
patio).
Go buy some 5 conductor TV antenna rotor cable. (Radio Shauche sells 100 feet
of the stuff for about 12 bucks).
First locate where you are going to put it and how big a loop your available
space will afford. (My patio is 12 by 4 so, I got about 4 loops out of the 100
feet).
NOW.. this is the part that many people seem to have trouble understanding:
Take the two ends of the cable (with five wires each) and connect these ten
ends so that you end up with one continuous wire that is 500 feet long.
Just to be sure I am not misunderstood (many people think you connect the
wires so that they cancel out, this is not so), I will diagram it:
The five wires in one end are LETTERS A-E
The five wires in the OTHER end are NUMBERS 1-5
A ------ to radio
1 -> B
2 -> C
3 -> D
4 -> E
to radio ---- 5
You can even add improvements to the above by adding a rotoary switch and a
variable capacitor connected to the "taps" where the two ends come together.
One of these years, I'm going to try this later bit myself.....
