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[121]World & Nation

If China declares war, these ham radio enthusiasts could be crucial

A man, left, stands near another man who is seated in front of the open
trunk of a van, with a bright bulb providing light
Lee Jiann-shing, right, sets up a radio station in the trunk of his van
in Taipei, Taiwan.
(Annabelle Chih / For The Times)
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By [129]Stephanie YangStaff Writer
Oct. 27, 2022 3 AM PT
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TAIPEI, Taiwan --

On Tuesday nights, BX2AN sits near the Xindian River, motionless but
for his thumb and middle finger, rhythmically tapping against two small
metal paddles. They emit a sound each time his hand makes contact --
from the right, a dit, or dot; from the left, a dah, or dash, the
building blocks of the Morse code alphabet.

"Is anyone there?" he taps.

The replies come back in fits and starts: from Japan, then Greece, then
Bulgaria. Each time, BX2AN, as he is known on the radio waves, jots
down a series of numbers and letters: call signs, names, dates,
locations. Then he adjusts a black round knob on his transceiver box,
its screens glowing yellow in the dark.
A masked man seated outside the open trunk of a van looks at a machine
with the word "BX2AN" on the top right corner.
Ham radio operator Lee Jiann-shing uses Morse code to communicate at a
riverside campground in Taipei, Taiwan.
(Annabelle Chih / For The Times)

There can be no doubt that this is his setup. That unique call sign is
stamped across the front of his black radio set, scrawled in faded
Sharpie on his travel mug and engraved in a plaque on his car
dashboard. On the edge of his notepad, he's absent-mindedly doodled it
again, BX2AN.
Advertisement
Advertisement

In the corporeal world he is Lee Jiann-shing, a 71-year-old retired
bakery owner, husband, father of five, grandfather of eight and a ham
radio enthusiast for 30 years. Every week, he is the first to arrive at
this regular meeting for Taipei's amateur radio hobbyists.
A hand adjusts the knob on a machine with various screens and a sign
that reads "BX2AN"
Lee Jiann-shing's unique call sign -- BX2AN -- is stamped across the
front of his black radio set, scrawled in faded Sharpie on his travel
mug and engraved in a plaque on his car dashboard.
(Annabelle Chih / For The Times)

They gather on a small, grassy campground on the city's southern
border, where Lee hunches over his radio from the back of his van,
listening to the airwaves as the sun goes down. He doesn't talk much;
he prefers the dits and dahs to communicate. By 8:30 p.m. he has
corresponded with six other operators in various countries.

U-R-N-A-M-E, Lee asks a contact in Bulgaria. G-E-K, the operator
replies, adding a location, S-O-F-I-A. Lee taps out L-E-E, and his city
in response.

As more members of the Chinese Taipei Amateur Radio League, or CTARL,
trickle in, two other operators are setting up stations several yards
away. One of them, like Lee, starts tapping. The other prefers a
handheld voice transmitter, tuning into some indistinct chatter across
the Taiwan Strait.

Column One

A showcase for compelling storytelling from the Los Angeles Times.
[137]More stories

In the age of smartphones and DMs, amateur radio has become a niche
hobby in Taiwan. Participants like Lee, many of whom are older than 50,
tinker with electronics, exchange postcards with new contacts and
compete to see who connects with the most far-flung places.
Advertisement

But ham radio might turn out to be more than just a pleasant pastime.

The self-governing island, about 100 miles east of China, is weighing
wartime scenarios in the face of growing military aggression from its
vastly more powerful neighbor. If cell towers are down and internet
cables have been cut, the ability of shortwave radio frequencies to
transmit long-distance messages could become crucial for civilians and
officials alike.

The recreational use of wireless radios, which transmit and receive
messages via electromagnetic signals, became popular in the early 20th
century, starting in the U.S. Since the federal government began
issuing licenses in 1912, the number of noncommercial radio operators
in the country has surpassed 846,000, according to the Federal
Communications Commission.
A man looks down while holding a radio unit in a bag Terry Ma sets up a
portable radio. Taiwan has about 25,000 licensed amateur radio
operators.
(Annabelle Chih / For The Times)

Amateur radio operators (also known as "hams") tend to use the high
radio frequencies, a measure of the oscillation rate of electromagnetic
waves. The higher the frequency, the shorter the wavelength, and the
farther signals can travel. (Never heard of it? Ham radio still
occasionally pops up in movies and TV -- "A Quiet Place," "The Walking
Dead" -- as a communication channel of last resort.)

The technology proved useful during World Wars I and II, when countries
such as the U.S. and Britain limited civilian airwave activity but
enlisted skilled hobbyists to help send and intercept covert messages.
More recently, during Russia's invasion of Ukraine, the BBC used
shortwave radio to broadcast its news service after [138]communication
towers were attacked. Ham radio operators were also able to listen in
and [139]interrupt communications among Russian soldiers.
Advertisement

Taiwan was not an early adopter. Under the Kuomintang, or Nationalist
Party -- whose leaders fled to the island in 1949 after losing to Mao
Zedong's Communist Party in China's civil war -- civilian use of
amateur radio was all but banned by a government that remained wary of
mainland spies. The first licensing exams weren't offered until 1984.
But today, with the threat of cross-strait conflict making headlines,
Taiwan has about 25,000 licensed amateur radio operators, according to
the National Communications Commission.

For years, China has asserted that Taiwan is part of [140]its
territory, a position the U.S. has acknowledged but stopped short of
endorsing. As Chinese President Xi Jinping has pushed his vision for
unification -- if not peacefully, then by force -- President Biden has
hardened [141]his rhetoric on defending the island's democracy, raising
fears of an inevitable clash.

After U.S. House Speaker Nancy Pelosi visited here in early August, the
People's Liberation Army in China launched missiles, planes and
warships around Taiwan [142]for several days. The growing military
pressure has also highlighted the vulnerability of the [143]island's
internet, which is heavily reliant on several major undersea data
cables.

As Taiwan confronts the possibility of war, many civilians are
[144]making preparations of their own.
A man in T-shirt, pants and cap assembles an antenna near a tree with
lights strung up
Lu Ying-chuan is among the ham radio enthusiasts at a weekly meeting.
Amateur radio operators believe the devices will be useful if internet
cables are cut and communication towers are downed.
(Annabelle Chih / For The Times)

Shoichi Chou, 45, remembers using a wireless radio as a teenager to
date and talk with his friends. But two years ago, watching Xi call
more forcefully [145]for unification, he decided to reacquaint himself
with the technology in case war broke out and communication lines went
down. Now a licensed operator, Chou, who lives in the city of Taoyuan,
keeps a radio in his emergency bag, along with spare batteries, water
and a hard hat.

"I feel like it's incredibly important," said Chou, the owner of a
laptop customization studio. "If just a few bases don't have
electricity, you won't have any way to use your phone."
Advertisement

Kenny Huang, chief executive officer of the Taiwan Network Information
Center, a nonprofit that serves local internet users, said several
government ministries have begun working on contingency plans for any
conflict-induced outages. "This year," he said, "the government
realized because the tension between Taiwan and China is getting worse,
they have to prepare for the worst-case scenario."

The use of ham radio is not yet officially part of that equation. But
for T.H. Schee, a Taiwanese tech entrepreneur who hosts lectures on
civil defense, the devices seem like a natural solution to his topmost
concern: securing communication capabilities in the face of an attack.
Several men gather around two people seated at a table near a pole with
a large circular cable In the age of smartphones and DMs, amateur radio
has become a niche hobby in Taiwan.
(Annabelle Chih / For The Times)

"Ham radio has been proven to be [a] reliable communication channel in
several world wars, and the Ukraine-Russia conflict as well," Schee
said. In Taiwan, amateur operators have helped train military personnel
and assisted in emergency communications for events including deadly
natural disasters and the annual New Year's Eve festivities in downtown
Taipei.

"Some people will think that with today's technological advancements,
this thing is being phased out," said David Kao, secretary general of
CTARL. "But ... new things are not always reliable."

Kao was 9 when he first encountered a basic broadcast radio in 1981.
Intrigued, he scoured the library for literature on the novel devices
and went from stall to stall at a local market seeking more
information. At that time, obtaining an amateur license was illegal
under martial law imposed by the Nationalists, also known as KMT. But
restrictions started easing a few years before martial law was lifted
in 1987. Four years later, CTARL was founded, and Kao finally got his
license.

Some hobbyists found their own ways around the rules. In 1981, when
Wayne Lai was 16, he was so eager to play with radios that he built his
own contraband out of electronic refuse.
Advertisement

His self-selected call sign back then was U0, or youling in Chinese, a
homonym for the word "ghost." His friends similarly styled themselves
Apple, Snoopy, Frog, Mazda, Bandit, Chicken Leg, Spare Rib. A few years
before Taiwan began to loosen restrictions, Lai and his friends were
raided by the authorities. Their radios were confiscated, and they had
to sign pledges to not use them again.
A young man in beige suit and glasses, seated at a table with radio
equipment
Ham radio hobbyist Wayne Lai in the 1980s.
(Wayne Lai)

Today, amateur radio is very accessible, but Lai, one of the Tuesday
night regulars at the campgrounds, worries that it doesn't hold the
same allure for people who grew up in the internet era.

"Look. Old guy," Lai says, pointing at one of the operators who set up
on a concrete bench. "Old guy. Old guy. Old guy. Old guy," he
continued, gesturing around a table. "There aren't many young people
coming to play anymore."

Luo Yi-cheng is quick to challenge that pronouncement. The 27-year-old
accounting specialist, who learned about ham radio from a YouTube video
last year, compared it to discovering Facebook -- a different way to
connect with people around the world.

The hardest part, he said, was picking up the receiver and uttering his
first words -- it was something akin to speaking in front of the entire
class in grade school. But the sense of accomplishment from a
successful connection was greater than anything Luo had experienced
using his smartphone. "I was completely unaware that this existed," he
said. "I think younger people aren't simply disinterested; they
probably just don't know about this."
Advertisement

For the most part, ham radio is a solitary activity. Nonetheless,
there's a festive atmosphere by the river. Lights strung up in a nearby
tree illuminate screens and dials in the dark. Someone digs out a stack
of ring toss hoops, while others fuss over small cups of tea.

Amid the sound of crickets and radio static, it's common to hear hams
chat about the weather, their latest devices and how to best hide their
gadget addictions from their wives. Some of them band together to
purchase new electronics via a group chat called "Buy, Buy, Buy."
Two men hold an antenna near a tree strung with lights Lu Ying-chuan,
left, and David Kao are part of the group of ham radio hobbyists that
gathers Tuesday nights. Some operators worry that ham radio holds no
appeal for people who grew up in the internet era.
(Annabelle Chih / For The Times)

"With so many electronics, there's no way you can use them all," one
member reasons.

"But when I see it, I still want to buy it," another insists, to the
commiserating laughter of the group.

Meanwhile, at the back of Lee's van, another message arrives in halting
beeps. He writes down the corresponding characters -- E71A -- before
tapping out a response.
Advertisement

He waits but gets nothing.

In the radio silence, a colleague uses his phone to look up the call
sign. "What is this flag?" he asks Lee, who is also at a loss. Upon
closer inspection, the icon, a blue-and-yellow rectangle, is labeled
"Bosnia and Herzegovina" in tiny letters.

Others gather behind them, looking over Lee's shoulder. "Where is
that?" they ask eagerly. "Did you respond?" "Did you make contact?"

"Didn't go through," Lee answers, his voice telegraphing dejection.
"Hearing them, but not being able to reach them, is really depressing,"
he said, tapping his fingers over his heart.

But all is not lost; there's always the possibility of another exciting
connection in the days ahead. Plus, it's a peaceful night, and the
threat of war -- for now -- seems as distant as the operators the hams
are hoping to reach.

The night's attendees pack up their equipment and return supplies to
their cars. A few of them help pull the lights down from the tree,
stowing them in Lee's van for the next Tuesday gathering. And the
regulars know Lee will probably be back at the river by the weekend,
unable to stay away for long.

David Shen of The Times' Taipei bureau contributed to this report.
__________________________________________________________________

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Stephanie Yang is a China correspondent for the Los Angeles Times.
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