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[160]TOP STORIES / [161]Culture / [162]Meet the Germans
Advertisement

Meet the Germans

Asparagus craze in Germany during the coronavirus crisis

As spring blooms in Germany, locals excitedly count the days until they
can eat their favorite vegetable: asparagus. Turns out not even a
pandemic can dampen desire for the white stalks, as DW's Meet the
Germans learned.

[163]White asparagus on a plate (picture-alliance/dpa/Creativ Studio
Heinemann)

Daydreams in Germany these days are often filled with [164]white
asparagus stalks — plain, with ham, with butter, with hollandaise
sauce, pan-fried, boiled, baked. Each preparation offers its own
pleasures, and many Germans swear by their own [165]tried-and-true
recipe.

They also know not to buy asparagus without first performing the
definitive "squeak test." It's the sound of asparagus that confirms
freshness; if you rub two fresh stalks together, they squeak!

Once home, if the stalks don't go straight into the cooking pot. they
should be wrapped in a damp kitchen towel and placed in the fridge in
the crisper, where they'll keep for two to three days.
Watch video 03:01

Share

Asparagus: An ode to Germany's favorite vegetable

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Asparagus: An ode to Germany's favorite vegetable

Do without asparagus? No way!

This year, with coronavirus raging around the world and movement
restrictions in place, many Germans were worried that there would not
be enough field workers to harvest the crop — around 300,000 seasonal
laborers come from Eastern Europe annually to get the job done.

"The asparagus harvest is at stake!" wrote one of Germany's major
tabloids in mid-March. Amidst the chaos of life in times of
coronavirus, would Germans not be able to at least take comfort in
their favorite spring delicacy?

The German government eventually decided to allow up to [177]40,000
seasonal workers to enter the country in both May and June, despite
travel restrictions.
* Sign advertising fresh asparagus (picture alliance/L. Halbauer)

Germany's love affair with asparagus, the 'vegetable of kings'

Take the 'Asparagus Road'
When makeshift stalls and signs advertising fresh asparagus pop up
along the roadside, Germans know it's "Spargelzeit," the brief
asparagus season. Over a few weeks, people go wild with asparagus
dishes and every restaurant has a special asparagus menu. In North
Rhine-Westphalia, 140 farms have mapped out a distinctive culinary
route they've called the "Spargelstrasse" (Asparagus Road).
* asparagus on display (DW/D. Breitenbach)

Germany's love affair with asparagus, the 'vegetable of kings'

Crisp, slender spears
Customers have a choice of different qualities, the most expensive
being the stalks that are straight, have a length of about 22
centimeters and tightly closed tips, followed by less-perfect
spears – too thin, bended – or even broken. No fuss: some stalls
sell ready-peeled asparagus, as unlike the green variety, white
asparagus must be peeled.
* Asparagus salesman in roadside stall (DW/D. Breitenbach)

Germany's love affair with asparagus, the 'vegetable of kings'

Perfect, broken or peeled
Germans can never seem to get enough of the slender white stalks
only available for a few weeks each year: the season begins in mid
April and invariably ends on June 24. Supermarkets, farms, farmer's
markets and roadside vendors categorize and price the vegetable
according to length and tips. In 2018, customers paid an average of
€5.48 ($6.18) for a kilo of white asparagus.
* Ham, asparagus and potatos on a dish (Imago/Strussfoto)

Germany's love affair with asparagus, the 'vegetable of kings'

A classic dish
The "vegetable of kings" is traditionally served with melted butter
or creamy rich Hollandaise sauce, boiled new potatoes and thin
slices of cold ham. From soups, tartes and omelettes to schnapps,
there's no limit to people's creativity when it comes to asparagus.
* An asaparagus tip breaks through the soil (Getty Images/AFP/S.
Bozon)

Germany's love affair with asparagus, the 'vegetable of kings'

Asparagus history
Asparagus was a delicacy even in ancient times. Roman historian
Marcus Porcius Cato described its cultivation in his book "De agri
cultura." King Louis XIV had asparagus grown in Versailles in 17th
century France. In 1852, a cannery in the German town of Brunswick
started canning asparagus: Finally, it was available year-round.
* Three men harvesting asparagus (Imago/R. Unkel)

Germany's love affair with asparagus, the 'vegetable of kings'

Harvested by hand
The stalks grow under long mounds of heaped soil, and unlike green
asparagus, they need to be harvested before they reach the
sunlight. It is labor-intensive work, as every single stalk is
harvested by hand. In 2017, many thousands of workers — mainly from
Romania and Poland — cut some 129,600 tons of white asparagus in
Germany during the short season.
* Young woman with a crown holding asparagus in a field
(picture-alliance/dpa/S. Stein)

Germany's love affair with asparagus, the 'vegetable of kings'

Queen of the stalks
In spring, asparagus-growing regions all over Germany invariably
crown a new asparagus queen. The young women, often growers'
daughters, promote and represent the seasonal delicacy. The state
of North Rhine-Westphalia, which is the most populous in Germany,
requires "candidates to be between 18 and 25 years old and
definitely independently mobile so they can cover events on their
own."
* Deutschland entdecken Spargel (DW)

Germany's love affair with asparagus, the 'vegetable of kings'

A museum of its own
A museum in the Bavarian town of Schrobenhausen is dedicated solely
to the royal vegetable. Opened in a 15th century tower in 1985, the
museum was turned into the only European Asparagus Museum six years
later. The exhibits shine a light on everything asparagus,
including agriculture, history, literature, art and curios,
including the above tongs.
Author: Dagmar Breitenbach

Asparagus farmer Peter Wermes, whose farm in Cologne [178]DW's Rachel
Stewart visited last year for the "Meet the Germans" series, is glad to
say his situation never looked that dire: "I am in the fortunate
position that the 15 seasonal workers I always employ from Poland and
Romania arrived here early, at the end of March. I am very grateful; I
have enough people to harvest my fields."

Normally most of Wermes' harvest is bought by restaurants. However, the
coronavirus forced dine-in establishments to close their doors for
weeks. "Some offered takeaway food, including asparagus dishes, but
they didn't buy much," he said.

However direct sales to customers in his farm shop has helped even out
the balance sheet. "At first, I was very skeptical whether in times of
crisis, people would even be interested in such a relatively
high-quality product," he said.
[179]Spargelbauar Wermes in Köln-Zündorf (Jürgen Lowis)

Peter Wermes runs an asparagus farm outside Cologne, in western Germany

White or green? An easy question for Germans

But Wermes says it stands to reason that people have been willing to
shell out[180]people have been willing to shell out for the
vegetable: "They couldn't travel anywhere, couldn't go out, had more
time, spent more time cooking meals —so there has been plenty of demand
for asparagus."

The demand is not color-blind, however. "The Germans are special
because they prefer white asparagus; the green variety has no more than
a 10% market share here," Wermes said.

As for what's at the root of Germany's asparagus obsession, Wermes
believs it's all about the onset of spring.

"Asparagus is the first spring vegetable, nature is awakening, trees
are green and budding. People crave what is fresh, and asparagus
happens to be available very early," he explained.

But for many Germans, asparagus season ends all too soon — on June 24,
or the feast day of Saint John the Baptist (Johannestag), to be
precise. The plants and the soil must have time to recover to ensure a
plentiful harvest the following year. So Germans can still enjoy
asparagus dishes for another month — even with coronavirus.

Peter Wermes, 50, started growing asparagus in 1996 on the Wermes
Asparagus and Strawberry Farm in Zündorf, a district on the outskirts
of in the city of Cologne.

You'll find more from [181]Meet the Germans on YouTube or
at [182]dw.com/MeettheGermans, and check out DW's cartoon
series [183]That's so German for a humorous take on German culture and
stereotypes.
Watch video 01:47

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German asparagus harvest

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Germany flies in seasonal workers to harvest asparagus

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* Date 20.05.2020
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