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Make a 2x4 Lap Steel Guitar

* Posted by [44]Shane Speal shanespeal.com on November 23, 2015 at
8:57am in [45]Feature Articles
* [46]View Discussions

[47][1079800505?profile=original]

This is one of the easiest homemade guitars I've ever built, and it
took me only an hour to make.

This lap steel was made from an extra 2x4 I had in my shed, with just a
few saw cuts to the wood. I even used a pre-wired acoustic sound hole
pickup, so there was no wiring needed. Anybody can build this lap steel
guitar!

The lap steel plays great, too. It's set up with a standard 23-inch
scale, just like the store bought-lap steels! The whole thing feels
great on your lap and looks absurdly cool.

Here’s a quick video (below). As you can tell, I’m still learning how
to play this properly.

IFRAME: [48]https://www.youtube.com/embed/XdpbspYiOUQ?wmode=opaque

These plans will give you a very basic, yet absolutely playable lap
steel. It might look like a lot of steps, but trust me, this instrument
is easy to build. You are basically just marking down a few lines,
making a couple cuts to the 2x4 and installing simple hardware.

At the end of this article, I have included a few mods to this design.

Parts needed

Note: The parts can now be found in the [49]C. B. Gitty 2x4 Lap Steel
Kit.

[50][1080104866?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024]

• 32” section of 2x4 pine lumber. (Note: Due to harmful chemicals, do
not use pressure-treated lumber!)
• Two (2) 1/2” diameter allthread rods, 3.5” long (Allthread rods are
like bolts without a head. You can find these at hardware stores. I
found a box of them at a flea market.)
• One pack of guitar tuners, three-to-a-side [51](such as this $8.29
pack of tuners)
• C B Gitty [52]Gold Foil pre-wired pickup
• One pack of medium-gauge electric guitar strings.

Tools needed

• Electric drill + two drill bits: 3/32” and 5/16”
• Table saw or circular saw
• Small screwdriver.

Directions

01. Cut a standard pine 2x4 into a 32” length.

[53][1079799690?profile=original]

02. Cut out the headstock: Turn the 2x4 on its side and mark a vertical
line 4” from the left end. Mark a horizontal line 5/8” from the top (as
pictured). Cut away the bottom portion in the headstock area (shaded
are in the picture). I used a dado blade on my table saw. You can also
do the same thing by running the saw in multiple passes over the shaded
area and then using a chisel to remove any extra wood chips. [54](Still
unsure? Here’s a link to a quick tutorial.)

[55][1079792386?profile=original]

03. Optional: I smoothed out the underside of the headstock on my belt
sander. It also provided a little heel curve.

04. Drill tuner holes: Mark your tuner holes on the underside of the
headstock. I went in about 5/8” in on each side and spaced the tuners
roughly an inch apart. Use a 5/8” drill bit to drill the tuner holes.

[56][1079800192?profile=original]

05. Turn the 2x4 back over and the following marks on the board,
starting from the butt end and going up toward the headstock:
a) 1.5” (this will be our through-body string feed)
b) 3” (bridge location)
c) 4.5” (pickup cavity)
d) 6” (pickup cavity)
e) 26” (nut location)

06. Cut out the pickup cavity: Notch out the wood between the 4 ½” and
6” line. Go about ¾” deep. Use the same dado technique as above with
the headstock.

[57][1079794351?profile=original]

07. Drill the string feed holes. Use a 3/32 drill bit to drill six
holes for the strings to feed through the body. Quite honestly, I
eyeballed these holes. The rough measurements from left to right are:
3/4”, 1 1/8”, 1 ½”, 2”, 2 ½”, 2 ¾”

[58][1079794579?profile=original]

08. Mark your fret guides: Measure out the frets by starting at the 26”
nut location and making pencil marks for each fret location. Then use a
contractor’s square to draw the fret lines. (I used a Sharpie for some
quick and dirty fret lines. You also can paint or woodburn them if you
want.)

[59][1079799284?profile=original]

Fret markers*:

1 1.29”
2 2.50”
3 3.65”
4 4.74”
5 5.76”
6 6.73”
7 7.64”
8 8.51”
9 9.32”
10 10.0”
11 10.8”
12 11.5”
13 12.1”
14 12.7”
15 13.3”
16 13.8”
17 14.3”
18 14.8”
19 15.3”
20 15.7”
21 16.1”
22 16.5”
23 16.9”
24 17.2”
25 17.5”
26 17.8”
27 18.1”
28 18.4”

09. Optional: Carve grooves for bridge and nut. Use a wood rasp to
notch grooves at the 3” mark and the 26” mark. These grooves will keep
the allthread bolts from moving. (You can see these grooves in the
picture at Step 13.)

10. Install the tuners and bushings at the headstock. [60]For tips, see
this video.

[61][1079792511?profile=original]

11. Install the pickup. Depending on the pickup you choose, installing
could be one of many different ways. As you can see, I just bent the
cheap mounting tabs down on my pickup and shoved a couple screws into
them to mount to the guitar. My pickup cavity was too deep, so I put a
little bit of cardboard to raise it up. Ideally, you want the pickup to
rest approx. ¼” away from the strings.

[62][1079800421?profile=original]

Sidebar: Check out [63]these new instructions for modding a Gold Foil
Pickup into a vintage looking top mount pickup. It'll give you a
better look than just bending down the mounding tabs...

[64][1079800430?profile=original]

12. String up the lap steel, but leave the strings slackened. If the
strings start to pull through the soft pine wood, place a small nail
through the ball loop of the string to keep it anchored.

13. Carefully wedge the allthread bolts into the 3” and 26” marks.
These will act as your nut and bridge.

[65][1079792376?profile=original]

14. Space the strings evenly over the pickup, using the threads on the
nut and bridge bolts as your string slots.

15. Tune the guitar. Try an open D chord to start (D, A, D, F#, A, D,
low to high).

16. Optional: If the strings keep pulling out of the threads on the
nut, use simple roundhead wood screws to act as string trees. Simply
slacken the offending string, position the screw beside the string (so
the screw head holds the string down) and insert it just deep enough to
provide tension on the string.

[66][1079799394?profile=original]

17. Crank it up! Use your choice of slide or just grab a beer bottle
and go. In the video qt the top of this story, I’m using a deep well
socket!

NOTES: If you can’t find allthread rods to serve as bridge and nut, try
other bolts, pipe pieces with notches cut into them or sections of ham
bones.

ADDITIONAL FEATURE: EXTRA MODS TO THE 2X4 LAP STEEL:

IFRAME: [67]https://www.youtube.com/embed/iR_3QCo62Sg?wmode=opaque

Humbucker Pickup: Hardwired to Backward Strat Jack

[68][1079792765?profile=original]

The original lap steel had a simple sound hole pickup that was easy to
install, but it gave me a bit of buzzing sound in concert due to lack
of grounding. For this second guitar, I opted for a cheap and gnarly
[69]$20 dual-rail humbucker from C. B. Gitty and hardwired it to the
guitar jack.

In true Eddie Van Halen fashion, I screwed the pickup directly to the
wood. Since I’m technically stupid when it comes to wiring, and because
this pickup had so many wires, I went to Seymour Duncan’s wiring guide
page and got the PDF diagram for a humbucker pickup and one volume
knob. I didn’t have a volume pot; I just disregarded that part and sent
the hot and ground wires straight to the jack.

I used a Strat-style jackplate and turned it backwards for ease of
mounting. It sits next to the pickup cavity. I had to remove a little
bit of wood underneath to make room for the jack.

[70][1079799446?profile=original]

I also added a ground wire and placed it in the groove where the bridge
bolt sits. It was a simple solution and works just fine. A couple of
staples from a staple gun keep everything in place.
Woodburned Fret Markers and Tack Fret Dots

[71][1079800562?profile=original]

Instead of just drawing the fret markers on with a Sharpie like I did
with the first lap steel, I used a common wood-burning pen and burned
the fret lines into the wood. I had some decorative furniture tacks in
my shop, so I used them as my fret dots. When the tacks ran out, I
continued with some industrial screws. Finishing it off was some
smashed beer caps on the 3, 5, 7, 9 and 12 frets. Because…why not?
Old "Church Key" Bottle Opener String Retainer

[72][1079792910?profile=original]

I improved upon the string tree screw idea from the first lap steel by
using an old Schmidt’s beer bottle opener to hold the strings down at
the headstock. I just drilled two holes in it and used two long screws
to keep it in place. I left about ¼ inch between the bottle opener and
the wood to give the strings room to run underneath. It works great!
String Ferrules In the Back

[73][1079793118?profile=original]

I was originally going to drill small holes for the strings to run
through the body at the butt end of the instrument, but I discovered a
bunch of Gitty string ferrules in my cabinet. These were simple to use.
I drilled the original string holes with a 3/32-inch bit and then used
a 5/16-inch bit to drill about 1/3 inch in from the back. The ferrules
are lightly tapped in with a hammer. Now I won’t have to worry about
the ball end of the guitar strings getting embedded in the wood from
tension.
Beer Caps and Brass Corners

[74][1079792555?profile=original]

What better decoration for a hobo instrument than a bunch of old beer
caps! I use beer caps in a lot of my art and always keep a box in the
woodshop. I collect them from bars where I play and have been known to
buy them in bulk on eBay, too. I also added some brass corners to add
some class. Topping it all off is an emblem from a York air
conditioner, because I’m proud to live and play in York, Pennsylvania.
(We’ve got one of the most vibrant music and art scenes in this little
town.)

If you build your own 2x4 lap steel, email me pictures at
[email protected]. I might use them in an upcoming column.

Links to parts used:
• [75]Dual Rail Humbucker Pickup
• [76]Guitar Jack
• [77]Jack Plate
• [78]String Ferrules
• [79]Brass Corners.

[80][1080104866?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024]

Tags:
[81]Like
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[83]Share [84]Tweet

Views: 30155

[85]▶ Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion

[86]Permalink Reply by [87]Mark Bliss on November 23, 2015 at 12:51pm
Rough and ready! Looks like fun.

This resource offers some of the best lap steel lessons I have
found:

[88]Open D Tuning

[89]C6 Tuning

[90]Youtube freebies and teasers

Note: he's a pretty good Dobro and pedal steel teacher as well!

+ [91]▶ Reply
+

[92]Permalink Reply by [93]Rooster Reaves on November 23, 2015 at
4:06pm
Thanks brother I'll have to make one!

+ [94]▶ Reply
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[95]Permalink Reply by [96]Marcelo Vid on November 23, 2015 at 4:47pm
A lot of creativity in this build Shane! And like Wayfinder i'm
wondering how many instruments you can play too! Man, one more
project for the list....

+ [97]▶ Reply
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[98]Permalink Reply by [99]Mark Reaney on November 23, 2015 at 8:04pm
Oh great, Now there's one more thing I have to add to my list to
try. But I have to... It's too cool!

+ [100]▶ Reply
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[101]Permalink Reply by [102]Gary O'slide on February 23, 2016 at
8:27am
perfect is really excellent

+ [103]▶ Reply
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[104]Permalink Reply by [105]Steven Bruce on February 24, 2016 at
10:21pm
Fabulous! Okay, now I have my next project, once I get 'ARTURO
FUENTE' finished. I like to play my cigar box guitar in my lap,
anyway, with a pick and a 1/2" deep socket. I will definitely
post picture once I get it done. Perhaps you know of the book
"Sound Designs: A Handbook of Musical Instrument Building" by
Reinhold Benek and Jon Scoville. If you don't, I recommend it.
That was my intro that somehow led me to the wonderful world of
CBG.

+ [106]▶ Reply
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[107]Permalink Reply by [108]James Lamb on April 6, 2016 at 7:57pm
How critical are the decimals on the fret spacing? Suggestions
on a means of precise measuring?

Thanks,

James

+ [109]▶ Reply
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[110]Permalink Reply by [111]Steven Bruce on April 6, 2016 at 10:03pm
I used a steel rule made by General (makers of precision
measuring & marking tools). It is graduated in increments of
10's, 100th's, 32nd's and 64's. Worked great because I didn't
have to do any converting or estimating and the fret lines ended
up where they are supposed to be. I actually bought it ($12)
just for this project, but I imagine it will be useful in the
future. The whole fret thing is about ratios of scale lengths,
so I figure precision is a good thing. Half of 440 is 220, but
the other intervals get knotty!

+ [112]▶ Reply
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[113]Permalink Reply by [114]Grandpa on April 7, 2016 at 1:50am
I saw Shane's video back when it was first up. Got me thinkin'
too. If Shane can do this in an hour, I ought to be able to make
one on a Saturday afternoon. I had all the parts (used an oak
shelf on mine). Opened up my laptop on the workbench, followed
Shane's excellent directions, and made me lap steel. And it is
waaaaay cool. Now to the point - I used Shane's fret
measurements as close as I could using a steel rule with 32nd
increments. Geeez, I can't read increments that fine with my
good glasses! But I digress. I scaled it out as close as I
could, marked the lines with a Sharpee, set the action @ 3/4"
above the fret board, plugged it in and let the fun begin.
Playing with a Dunlop Steel, the precise placement of the fret
markings may not be as critical as some might think. My build
was not a professional grade instrument, but a real fun addition
to my playthings. Works good for my (fret-adjacent) playing
style. For a lot of us, close enough is close enough. Oh yeah -
the string action had to be set high to accommodate the hex head
sheet metal screws I used for fret markers.

+ [115]▶ Reply
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[116]Permalink Reply by [117]Jim Morris on July 5, 2016 at 8:53pm
Precision is certainly a good thing when marking for frets but
if you're playing an instrument like this with a slide there's a
bit of margin of error allowed since your ear will (hopefully)
tell you if you're off or on. Still, it's good to try for
accurate measuring even on an instrument mostly meant for
slide.

+ [118]▶ Reply
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[119]Permalink Reply by [120]Jennifer Stuckey on July 5, 2016 at 7:35pm
I just made my first one. I had a cedar 2x4 so that's what I
used. It sounds pretty good and it was really easy to make.
Thanks, Shane!!!

[121][306566872?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024]

+ [122]▶ Reply
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[123]Permalink Reply by [124]Shane Speal shanespeal.com on July 5, 2016
at 8:40pm
IT'S BEAUTIFUL!!! How's it sound?

+ [125]▶ Reply
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[335]“Open G” GDG Tuning on your Cigar Box Guitar: 4 Methods, with
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[336]Diatonic (Dulcimer-Style) Fretting – What it is, How and Why to
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[338]February Meeting of CBG Minded Michigan'ders
[339]February 8, 2020 from 1pm to 5pm – [340]Red Sky Stage
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[343]Dorrigo Mountain Cigar Box Guitar Festival
[344]May 1, 2020 at 12pm to [345]May 3, 2020 at 10pm – [346]Dorrigo
NSW Australia
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63. http://www.cigarboxnation.com/forum/topics/how-to-transform-a-gold-foil-soundhole-pickup-into-a-vintage-top-
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88. http://www.lessonswithtroy.com/Lap-Steel-Lessons-In-Open-D/
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135. http://cbgitty.com/
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138. http://cigar-box-guitar-music.blogspot.com/
139. http://www.3-string-guitar.com/
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141. https://shanespeal.com/museum
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215. https://cigarboxnation.com/forum/topics/practice-exercise-for-3-string
216. https://cigarboxnation.com/forum/categories/performances-how-to-play/listForCategory
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225. https://cigarboxnation.com/forum/topics/wiring-a-pick-up-help-needed
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230. https://cigarboxnation.com/forum/topics/newbie-help-for-string-ringing
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235. https://cigarboxnation.com/forum/topics/rod-piezo-mounting
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