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Title: How to Make Draperies
Singer Sewing Library, No. 102
Author: Anonymous
Release Date: September 24, 2020 [EBook #63282]
Language: English
Character set encoding: UTF-8
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How to Make
Draperies
_Instructions for_
• Fabrics
• Color
• Design
• Measurements
• Construction
_Published by_
THE SINGER COMPANY
Book No. 102
[Illustration: uncaptioned]
[Illustration: SINGER Sewing Library]
How to Make
Draperies
CONTENTS _page_
_Fabrics_ _3_
_Color and Design_ _7_
_Selection of Needles and Thread_ _8_
_Window Measurements_ _11_
_Construction Details_ _15_
_Measuring for Pleats_ _26_
_Copyright© 1960 by The Singer Company_
_Copyright under International Copyright Union • All Rights Reserved
under Inter-America Copyright Union • No part of this book may be
reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission._
[Illustration: uncaptioned]
_Fabrics_
[Illustration: uncaptioned]
Drapery fabrics are available to us today in an overwhelming variety for
every decor—not only in the traditional fabrics, but also in the many
new synthetics and blends.
Whether the room is traditional, modern, formal or informal, you need
only visit the drapery fabric department to realize what a wide choice
of fabrics are available in either group.
Windows are so much a part of the background that the fabric chosen, its
texture, color and line, and the design of the curtains, draperies and
slip covers must be in keeping with the atmosphere of the room and
contribute to the over-all effect.
For the very formal treatment, you’ll want to choose something in the
Damask designs, taffetas, moires, brocades, satins, brocatelles or the
many blends of the pure and man-made fibers, some with metallic threads
woven in. Fringes and tassels are used as trims, and the window
treatment would include draped valances, swags, cascades, elaborate
cornices, tie-backs, etc.
For the less formal or informal room, the choice of fabric is even
wider—linens in medium and sheer weights, prints and lacey patterns,
marquisette, scrim, voile, ninon, denim, sailcloth, chintz, polished
cotton, antique satin, organdy, batiste and many blends of synthetics,
such as Fortisan and rayon or silk. The curtain treatment should be
simple. If valances are used, they should be plain with straight lines.
Many of the new synthetic fibers are a real advantage to the home-maker
because of their easy washing and quick drying properties. Some require
very little pressing, if any.
In estimating the yardage required, consider the length of the drapery,
before finishing hems and heading, and the width of the window or space
to be covered. An allowance of 2½ or 3 times the width should be made
for fullness. When using sheer fabrics, draperies should be full enough
to hang in easy, graceful folds. Over-curtains or draperies of medium
weight fabrics require a fullness of 2 to 2½ times the width. Also, if
you select a fabric with a large one-way design, some allowance should
be made for matching the design so all lengths will balance.
_For example:_ The window is 64″ wide which requires 4 widths of 48″
wide fabric for a 3 to 1 fullness. The drapery lengths are 2⅓ yards
long. If a plain fabric or overall design is used, the fabric required
would be 9⅓ yards, but if the fabric has a 24″ repeat pattern, you must
allow 1⅓ yards more, or a total of 10⅔ yards for matching the design.
Consider the width of the fabric when figuring the number of widths for
fullness. Some fabrics are only 36″ wide—chintz and some polished
cottons, for example. Others may run 40″—48″—even 54″ or 60″ in width;
but the average is about 48″ wide.
[Illustration: Grain lines of fabric.]
⇐Crosswise Grain—Weft or Filling⇒
⇐Lengthwise Grain—Warp⇒
⇐True Bias⇒
Draperies must be cut on the true lengthwise and crosswise grain of the
fabric so that when hung, they fall straight from the rod in even,
graceful folds.
In weaving, yarns are threaded lengthwise on a loom which form the warp
of the fabric. Another yarn is interlaced back and forth crosswise and
is called the weft or filling thread. This is known as the plain weave.
Linen, voile, chintz, etc., are a few of the plain woven fabrics. There
are variations of the plain weave, such as the pile weave, with
velveteen and corduroy as examples. The basket weave is another, with
Monk’s cloth as an example. The diagonal line halfway between the
lengthwise and crosswise threads is the bias of the fabric.
The twill weave is perhaps one of the most durable. The filling yarn
forms a diagonal line, passing over one warp yarn and under two or more.
Denim, drill cloth and ticking are examples of this weave.
The satin weave is an irregular weave where one yarn passes over several
yarns of the other set before interweaving, forming a floating, lustrous
surface.
Weaves are used in combinations to obtain the various patterns in
Damasks, brocades, Jacquards, etc.
[Illustration: Cutting on true crosswise grain.]
The yarns made from the different fibers—the natural, man-made and
blended fibers—are of various sizes, weights, smoothness and fuzziness.
The type of yarns used in the different weaves influences the texture of
the fabric as well as its weight, lustre and durability.
When cutting drapery lengths, be sure to start with a true crosswise
grain. Most firmly woven plain weave fabrics can be torn. Snip the
selvage before you tear the fabric. Linens, loosely woven and nubby
fabrics, novelty weaves and many others will not tear satisfactorily. To
straighten these, it is necessary to pull a thread crosswise and cut on
pulled line.
After cutting lengths, check to see if the ends of the fabric are
square. If not, square the crosswise edge by pulling the low corner on a
true bias from opposite side of the fabric. Sometimes dampening the
fabric will relax the threads and make straightening easier.
ESTIMATE OF YARDAGE
DRAPERIES
_Full Length Window—48″ Material_ 6 YARDS
_Full Length Window with Valance_ 6½ ″
LINING—_Full Length Window_ 5¼ ″
These figures are the approximate requirements. Always, where
possible, take careful measurements for more accurate estimate. It is
much better to have extra material than not enough.
When using materials with a large floral pattern or plaid, allow one
full length of the motif for each additional length required for
draperies.
_Color and Design_
[Illustration: uncaptioned]
Color has a language all its own—It expresses, it soothes, it
stimulates, it creates; it can give you a lift. And color as a home
decorator can be made to work like magic. With color, the dullest rooms
can be made to sparkle with warmth and good cheer. Any color scheme is
good as long as it is balanced and it pleases you. A number of colors,
tints and shades may be used in one room, but one color should be
dominant and it should be used in different areas of the room. The
second color should be subordinate, not of the same value. Then a third
color may be used for accent or contrast. The neutral colors: gray,
white and black, are good background or accent colors.
Do not overlook the possibilities of accessories, such as pillows,
vases, china, lamps and books to supply an accent color to complete your
color scheme.
Your color scheme may be taken from a favorite picture, a family
heirloom or may express the interests and personalities of the family.
Consider also the location of the room—East, West, North or South—and
how the light enters the room.
There are three primary colors—red, yellow and blue. These colors are
mixed to obtain secondary colors. For example, red and yellow produce
the color orange; red and blue, the color violet and blue and yellow,
the color green. By blending these six colors we complete the color
wheel which is made up of red, red orange, orange, yellow, yellow green,
green, blue green, blue, blue violet and violet.
We refer to certain colors as warm, others as cool and still others as
neither warm nor cool. The warm colors are red, yellow and orange. The
cool colors are the blues. Green is neither warm nor cool but if mixed
with yellow, it becomes warm; when mixed with blue, it becomes a cool
color.
Color and line apparently change the size of the room. Cool, light
colors and vertical lines make walls appear higher and the room larger,
while warm colors and horizontal lines seem to lower the ceiling and
draw the walls nearer.
For North and East rooms, use warm colors. If little light enters in,
use light shades of the warm colors. Use the cool colors in rooms with
South or West exposures.
When purchasing your fabrics for curtains, draperies and slip covers,
keep in mind the overall effect. Consider the room exposure, light, size
of room, furniture arrangement and what color and design will do to
create a room you will always enjoy. Since windows are a very important
part of the room as a unit, the fabric chosen for curtains or draperies
should also be used to slip cover a sofa or chair, a dressing table
cover, or a dust ruffle for the bed.
[Illustration: uncaptioned]
_Selection of Needles and Thread_
Sewing thread should blend as nearly as possible with the fabric in
color, fiber and size. Silk and wool fabrics are stitched with silk
thread. Cottons, linens and some blended fabrics are stitched with
cotton thread or mercerized thread. The synthetic fabrics and blends of
the pure and man-made fibers may be stitched with silk, mercerized
cotton, nylon or Dacron (DuPont) thread. The needle is selected with
consideration to both the thread and the fabric.
With fabrics used for glass curtains and for sheer curtains, such as
organdy, voile, “Dacron,” dotted Swiss, marquisettes, batiste and sheer
linen, use a fine cotton thread, size 80 or 90, or a mercerized thread.
Use a size 14 needle for mercerized thread and a size 11 for finer
threads, including “Dacron” for “Dacron” fabrics, organdy, “Dacron,”
marquisette, dotted Swiss, lawn, batiste and rayon lend themselves
beautifully to the use of sewing machine attachments for ruffling,
tucking, hemming, etc. Fiberglas stitches well and is best suited to
straight panel type curtains with pleated headings. Use a mercerized
thread and size 14 machine needle for Fortisan, synthetics and the many
blends.
The average machine stitch length for these fabrics should be about 12
stitches to the inch and the tensions easy enough to prevent puckering
the fabrics, particularly sheer fabrics, such as batiste, nylons, ninons
and soft rayon blends.
For Damask, brocades, taffetas, satins, etc., use silk or mercerized
thread, size 14 or 11 needles of 12 to 14 stitches per inch.
Heavy weight fabrics, namely, linens, cotton Damasks, sailcloth,
ticking, denims, etc., require a heavy-duty thread, a size 16 needle and
a 12 stitch length.
For light or medium weight fabrics comparable to polished cottons,
Chintz, linens, Glosheen, percale, antique satin and faille, use a
mercerized thread, a size 14 needle and a 12 or 14 stitch length.
[Illustration: uncaptioned]
[Illustration: uncaptioned]
RETURN
RETURN
FIXTURE
WIDTH
FLOOR LENGTH
FRAME
JAM
SASH
SILL
SILL LENGTH
APRON
APRON LENGTH
BASEBOARD
CLEAR RUG
_Window Measurements_
Before taking measurements, there are several points that should be
taken into consideration: Is the window in proportion to the room? Will
it contribute properly to the effect you wish to achieve? Do you have
the right rods for hanging the type of drapery selected?
When you are satisfied with the window, then it is time to consider the
type of materials for draperies and decide on the type of rod required.
It is a good idea to make a sketch of the room, noting the placement of
windows and arrangement of furniture. Also take the width and height
measurement of each window. Then visit the curtain and drapery
department to get an idea of the type of fixtures available. At the same
time, obtain small samples of the fabrics suited to the type of drapery
you have in mind. Examine them in the room where they are to be used.
Are they the right texture? Are the colors lively enough? Will they
create the desired effect?
Purchase and mount the rods for the draperies. Fixtures should be
mounted so that draperies, when hung, will cover the window frame. Now
you are ready to take measurements.
There are three correct lengths for draperies—to the sill—to the lower
edge of the apron—or to the floor. Full length draperies should just
clear the floor or be long enough to crush on the floor.
_For length_—Measure from the top of the rod down—to the sill—to the
lower edge of apron—or to the floor.
_For width_—Measure from edge to edge of window frame or from outer
edges of fixture brackets. To this measurement add the “return” at
either end; that is, the length from curve of rod to the wall.
Estimating Yardage for Over-Curtains or Draperies
The type of heading, the width of lower hem and the type of drapery;
that is, lined, unlined or interlined, must be considered when
estimating the yardage required. The fullness of draperies averages
about twice the width of the space to be covered.
A stiffening; such as a strip of crinoline or buckram is used at the top
to support the pleats.
_For Lined Draperies_—To length measurement, add 1″ for heading, 4″ for
hem and 3½″ for bottom hem.
_Example_—If length from top of rod is 90″, add 1″ plus 4″ plus 3½″.
This equals 98½″ for one length, or 5½ yards for the two lengths.
_For Unlined Draperies_—To length measurement, add 1″ for heading, 4½″
for top hem and seam, and 3½″ for lower hem. A 4″ wide strip of
crinoline is used at the top of both lined and unlined drapes.
If a double hem is used at the bottom, then add 6″ instead of 3½″ for
hem in either lined or unlined drapes.
_For Interlined Draperies_—To length measurement, add 1″ for heading, 3″
for top hem and 3″ for bottom hem.
When using ready-made headings for pleats, add to the length measurement
1½″ for heading and seam, and 3½″ for bottom hem.
[Illustration: _French Doors or Window_
The rod should be placed so that the drapery, when hung, covers the
glass portion of the window. Take measurement from top of upper rod
to lower part of lower rod. To this measurement, add 2½″ at the top
and 2½″ at the bottom. This allows for a 1½″ hem, top and bottom,
plus ¼″ seam allowance. The 1½″ hem is for a ¾″ casing and ¾″
heading.]
FIXTURE
FOR WIDTH
MEASURE FROM TOP AND BOTTOM OF FIXTURE
FIXTURE
Recessed Windows
[Illustration: uncaptioned]
When draperies are hung flush with the wall, measurements are taken
inside the recess. A spring socket type of fixture is available for this
type of window. Always measure from the top of the rod, except for Cafe
curtains. Usually a ring, “sew-on” or “clip-on” type is used. In this
case, measure from lower part of circle to lower part of next section,
or to the sill. Add depth of top finish plus hem to this measurement.
[Illustration: Oval spring socket. Round spring socket.]
Sliding Windows or Doors
[Illustration: Hook over or dual wheel design. Cord tension pulley.
Install on wall, baseboard or floor.]
These windows are usually treated as one. Draperies, in two sections,
are hung on a pole or traverse rod and are drawn to the center, one
section overlapping the other about 2″. Take length measurement from top
of rod to the floor. To this measurement, add 5½″ for heading and top
hem and 3½″ for bottom hem. If double hems are used, add 9″ at the top
plus 6″ for bottom hem. To the width, add 3″ at either end for return of
curtain from fixture to wall.
[Illustration: Two-way traverse rod.]
Projected Window
[Illustration: uncaptioned]
To permit ease when opening or closing the window, the fixture should
extend a little beyond the window on either side. Use a simple fixture,
an oval or round rod, and a draw type of drapery. If drapery is to be
shirred on the rod, take measurement from top of rod to lower edge of
window. To length measurement, add 2½″ for a 1½″ hem which forms the
casing and heading, and 2¾″ to 2½″ bottom hem. If _sew-on_ or _clip-on
rings are used, measure_ from lower circle of ring to edge of window. To
this measurement, add depth of top and bottom hem.
[Illustration: uncaptioned]
Awning Window
[Illustration: uncaptioned]
The type of drapery determines points of measurement. With tier type
draperies, one for each section of the window, the measurements are
taken from top to bottom of each section. Draperies hung from the top
extending to lower edge of window or floor are measured from top of
fixture for length desired. Tier type or cafe sections should be long
enough to overlap the heading of the section below. Follow same
procedure for measuring as for projected window. These draperies should
be full—1½ times the width for medium weight fabrics, such as Chintz,
Glosheen, etc., to three times the width when using sheer fabrics.
Methods of installing
Curtain and drapery rods, brackets and valance boards should be mounted
securely to the wall to support heavy draperies. This can be a problem
unless you use the right screws or bolts. There is a correct screw and
bolt available for every type of wall—brick, concrete or plaster walls.
[Illustration: PLASTER SCREW—For plaster or dry walls.]
[Illustration: PLASTIC PLUG—Use in brick wall for plug, then insert
screw.]
[Illustration: MOLLY BOLT—Use in plaster, brick or concrete wall.]
[Illustration: TOGGLE BOLT—Use in frame or plaster walls where there
is a separation between outer and inner walls.]
_Construction Details_
[Illustration: uncaptioned]
Draperies or over curtains are made of medium weight or heavy fabrics.
They may be unlined, lined or lined and interlined, depending on the
fabric and its treatment—whether formal or informal.
There are three accepted lengths for draperies—to the window sill—to the
bottom of the window apron—or to the floor. Floor length is most
generally used, and for very formal treatments, the drapery is often
made long enough to crush on the floor. Draperies hang straight from the
rod to the floor. If they meet at the top center, they may be draped to
either side and held with ornamental tie-backs or those made of the same
material.
When the type and design of draperies have been decided upon and the
right type of rods have been mounted, then measurements for draperies
can be taken.
Measure from the top of the rod down for length desired. Then add to
length measurement the allowance for top and bottom hems. Review chapter
on “Fabrics” before cutting lengths for draperies.
Unlined Draperies
These draperies are informal in treatment and are usually made of light
or medium weight fabrics. Most any type of top finish, shirring or
pleats is suitable. A plain valance or cornice board may be used. For a
pleated heading, allow 5½″ at the top for heading and 5½″ at the bottom
for a 2½″ double hem. Cut strips of crinoline or lawn for stiffening 4″
wide and 3″ shorter than the width of each drapery length. Pin strip to
underside of heading ½″ from the top, starting 1½″ from the edge. Stitch
along lower edge of strip, then turn top edge of fabric over stiffening
½″ and stitch. Turn top hem to underside along edge of stiffening. Press
and pin in place.
Side hems may be put in by hand, machine stitched or blind stitched. For
hand stitching or straight machine stitching, turn edge ½″ to underside;
then turn 1″ for hem. Pin hem in place for stitching.
To blind-stitch hem, using the Zigzag Sewing Machine or the Zigzag
Attachment, pin hem in place; then run a row of hand basting ¼″ from
turned edge. With wrong side of drapery up, turn hem under to right
side, exposing the ¼″ edge. Turn 2½″ double hem at the bottom and finish
by hand or machine stitch.
[Illustration: Stitch stiffening to top of drapery.]
STIFFENING
1½″ BOTH SIDES FOR HEMS
UNDERSIDE OF MATERIAL
[Illustration: Finish side hem by hand, using slip-stitch.]
[Illustration: Side hem basted for blind-stitch hemming.]
[Illustration: Blind-stitch hemming, using the Zigzag Sewing
Machine.]
[Illustration: Double hems with corners cut out to relieve bulk.]
[Illustration: Finishing double side hems and bottom hem by hand.]
If 1″ double side hems are used, cut stiffening 4″ shorter than the
width of each drapery length. When using a heading with woven-in pockets
for pleater pins, (available by the yard) allow 2″ at the top for
heading and seam. Pin right side of heading to right side of drapery
⁵/₁₆″ below edge across the top. Consider the ″return″ of the drapery at
each side, and position woven-in pockets so that the pleat comes at the
turn of the rod. Stitch, taking ½″ seam; then turn heading to underside.
Press and stitch ¼″ from the lower edge of the heading.
[Illustration: Type of hook used for forming pleats and hanging
draperies.]
[Illustration: RIGHT SIDE OF MATERIAL
Place pleat tape at top, ⁵/₁₆″ from edge. Stitch ½″ from edge.]
1½″ BOTH SIDES FOR HEM
WRONG SIDE OF PLEAT TAPE
[Illustration: Tape turned to underside. Stitch tape to drapery at
lower edge. Machine stitch 1″ side hems.]
SLOTTED SIDE OF PLEAT TAPE
Lined Draperies
[Illustration: Lining in proportion to drapery length.]
2″
TOP 4″ HEM
7″
LINING
3″
2″
Draperies are lined for the protection of the fabric. Linings also give
weight to the draperies, causing them to hang in deeper folds. A
sun-fast white, soft gray or cream colored sateen is generally used as
the lining fabric.
Linings, just as drapery fabrics, must be cut straight with the
crosswise and lengthwise grains.
Always start with a straight crosswise edge. This is obtained by drawing
a crosswise thread and cutting on drawn thread. If fabric slopes up on
one edge, then it should be straightened before pieces are cut.
Very often, when fabrics are rolled on the boards at the mills, the
fabric is rolled more tightly on one end than at the other, drawing the
crosswise threads (weft) in a diagonal line. This is apt to be true in
loosely woven fabrics and particularly lining fabric.
To straighten fabric, first remove selvages, pull fabric gently but
effectively, stretching it diagonally from corner to corner; then
alternate. Grasp the fabric so that you will neither injure nor wrinkle
it. Press before seaming.
Lining should be cut to allow for a 2″ hem at the bottom and a ½″ seam
across the top and sides.
Illustration is for a drapery 2½ yards long, finished with 4″ top hem,
1″ side hems and 3″ bottom hem. Drapery length would measure 98½″ and
lining length, 88½″. The average hem widths, 3″ and 4″, were used in
figuring measurements. The width of hems vary. There is no fixed rule.
They may be 3″—4″—5″ or even 7″ at the top and 2″—2½″—3″ or 4″ at the
bottom. In many cases the bottom hem is doubled, particularly in sheer
or lightweight fabrics. Also the center side hem may be as much as 2″
wide and the outer hem 1″. In this case, the lining is cut 6″ narrower
than the drapery. Before taking measurements for draperies, review
section on _Window Measurements_.
To join lining, turn top edge of lining to underside ½″ and press. Pin
lining and drapery together, starting 7½″ from the top. Stitch from top
of lining down to 4½″ of lower edge of lining, taking a ½″ seam.
Back-stitch at the beginning and end of seam. Press seam as stitched;
then clip seam every 3″ or 4″. Press the seam open. Pin, from hem to
hem, a 4″ wide strip of stiffening to underside across the top. Stitch
and press.
[Illustration: Straightening material—Pull diagonally from low
corner.]
[Illustration: Joining lining to drapery.]
RIGHT SIDE OF MATERIAL
7½″
LINING
[Illustration: Stiffening stitched to heading.]
STIFFENING
1½″ FOR HEM BOTH SIDES
UNDERSIDE OF MATERIAL
Turn drapery right side out and adjust hems on either side. Be sure
seams are spread open. Press and pin. Turn top hem to underside. Pin and
press. Turn and miter side hem. Cut out top hem even with stiffening and
within 1″ of the top. Pin lining to hem, overlapping lower edge ½″. Side
hem and mitered corner above the lining should be slip-stitched by hand;
then slip-stitch lining to top hem. Press. Allow draperies to hang for 2
or 3 days before putting in lower hems. Then adjust length of drapery so
that it clears the rug or floor. Turn edge under ½″; then turn hem
width. If an allowance is made for a double hem, first turn to underside
one-half the width allowed, then turn again the same width, enclosing
first turn. Slip-stitch hem by hand or stitch by machine. The lining hem
overlaps the drapery hem approximately 1″. Allowance is made for a 2″
hem with ½″ for seam. The lining hem hangs free of the curtain and is
held in position with french tacks spaced about 12″ apart. To french
tack, take 3 or 4 stitches first at top of drapery hem, then lining hem,
then drapery hem, etc., leaving a ½″ or ¾″ length between. Blanket
stitch over the full length of these strands of thread. Fasten thread at
end of tack. Draperies should be anchored at top of return and lower
side hems.
Use a _sew-on_ or _pin-on_ weight at bottom of center hems.
(See illustration at top of page 22.)
[Illustration: Cut out end of top hem to eliminate bulk.]
LINING TURNED BACK
[Illustration: Lining slip-stitched to top hem.]
LINING
[Illustration: Making a French tack.]
LINING
[Illustration: ‘Sew-on’ or ‘pin-on’ weights.]
[Illustration: Lined drapery with pleater tape heading.]
[Illustration: Side hems tacked to insure evenness.]
When using a tape with woven-in pockets for pleater pins, allow 2″ above
the rod for heading and seam. See instructions under the section
_Unlined Draperies_ for joining tape to heading. Join lining; then clip
and press seams. Turn drapery to right side and pin lining to bottom of
tape, overlapping ¼″. Stitch and press; then finish side hems above
lining by hand.
It is a good idea to tack the side hems along stitching line. This
prevents them from slipping and hems always appear sharper. Using
matching thread and working from the underside, insert needle through
the seam down through to the right side, picking up a thread or two of
the fabric. Then bring needle back up through the seam. Insert needle at
the same point and direct needle along the seam between the hem a
distance of 1″. Bring needle up through seam; then direct needle down
through seam at same point, picking up two or three threads, and then up
through seam again. Continue this tacking the length of the hem.
Drapery lined to top
There are times that draperies are lined to the top instead of using a
hem, particularly when a valance or cornice board is used. To the length
measurement, add 1½″ at the top for heading and seam. Cut lining in
proportion. Stitch lining and drapery lengths together, bringing edges
even at the top. Clip seam and press open. Cut stiffening the length of
drapery width. Pin and stitch stiffening across the top, taking ½″ seam.
Turn drapery right side out, enclosing heading. Press top and side hems.
Finish hems at the bottom the same as for lined draperies.
[Illustration: Joining stiffening to lining and drapery at top.]
[Illustration: Drapery turned to right side.]
Interlined Draperies
Draperies are often interlined, particularly in very formal rooms, or
when the character of the material is such that the extra weight is
necessary for its protection. Interlining also adds to the draping
quality and elegance of the fabric.
For an interlining fabric, use good quality cotton flannel. Cut
interlining the exact measurements of draperies when finished; that is,
if draperies have 1½″ hems on each side and 3″ hems, top and bottom,
then cut interlining 3″ narrower and 6″ shorter than drapery fabric.
Spread material right side down.
[Illustration: Tack interlining to drapery at center and between
center and side hems.]
3″
TACK DOWN THROUGH CENTER
INTERLINING FOLDED LENGTHWISE FOR TACKING
1½″
[Illustration: Turn and baste hems—side, top, and bottom.]
UNDERSIDE OF MATERIAL
INTERLINING
Fold interlining through lengthwise center. Place fold on exact center
of drapery fabric and tack together loosely. Take a stitch in the
drapery; bring needle up through fold of interlining and leave a loop.
Space about 6″; take a stitch in drapery, then interlining, then
drapery, etc. Do not pull thread taut. When row is finished, fold
interlining halfway between center and edge on both sides and tack in
the same manner, making three rows of vertical tacking.
[Illustration: Catch-stitch hems to interlining.]
Turn side hems back over interlining. Pin and baste. Then turn top and
bottom hems. Pin and baste. Miter hems at corners. All hems may be
catch-stitched to the interlining, and the lining slip-stitched to top
and side hems. Linings may also be joined by machine. Turn hem and
baste; then pin lining to drapery and stitch, taking ½″ seam. Press seam
as stitched. Then clip and press seam open the same as for all lined
curtains and draperies.
[Illustration: Turn sides and top of lining under ½″. Pin in place,
slip-stitch.]
When lining is joined to drapery by machine, tack interlining and lining
together along seam. Take stitch in seam, then in interlining. Space
stitching 3″ or 4″ apart. Do not draw thread taut. Turn top and bottom
hems and catch-stitch. Pin lining to hem across the top and slip-stitch.
Turn hem in lining and stitch. Allowance should be made for a 2″ hem,
overlapping the hem in drapery approximately 1″. Use french tacks
between lining hem and drapery to hold lining in place. Use either
‘sew-on’ or ‘pin-on’ weight at bottom of side hems.
[Illustration: When lining is machine stitched to drapery, tack seam
to interlining.]
[Illustration: French tacks hold drapery and lining together.]
_Measuring for Pleats_
[Illustration: uncaptioned]
The use of pleats is one of the most effective ways of controlling the
fullness of a drapery that is made to hang in balanced, graceful folds.
The types most generally used are the pinch pleat, the French pleat, the
box pleat and the cartridge pleat.
Pleats should be made in groups of uneven numbers, 5-7-9, or as many as
are required to take up the amount allowed for fullness. For very sheer
fabrics, the allowance for fullness should be 3 times the width of the
window or space to be covered. To figure the spacings and amount to be
taken up in pleats, take the measurement of the space to be covered plus
the return; that is, the distance from turn of rod to the wall or the
bracket supporting the rod on either end, plus the overlap at the center
when curtains are drawn together. The width allowed for draperies minus
these three measurements is to be taken up in pleats.
The fullness of each type of pleat and space between depends on the
weight of the material and amount allowed for fullness of the curtain.
_For Example_: If one half of the width to be covered is 49″ then one
section of the drapery would be about 144″ wide after finishing side
hems. To width of window area (49″), add 3″ for return and 1″ for center
overlap. This totals 53″. 144″ minus 53″ equals 91″ for pleats. Allowing
7″ for each pleat, 13 pleats will be required to take up the fullness.
Please Note—3″ for return is used as an example. The return can be 4″ or
5″, depending on type of rod or bracket. Always measure the return.
Steps to Pleats
Always measure and mark the exact position and width for all pleats and
spacings before stitching.
Measure the width of the return from outer edge. Then measure for the
first pleat at the curve of the rod. Place second pleat on opposite side
2″ from center edge. The third pleat is placed at the exact center
between the first and second pleat. The remaining number of pleats
required is evenly spaced between the 1st and 3rd and between the 2nd
and 3rd pleats. To form pleats, bring markings for pleats together. Pin;
then stitch from top to ¾″ below the heading, reversing the stitch at
either end.
[Illustration: 1. Bring the markings together for pleat and pin.
2. Stitch from top to about ¾″ below heading, reversing stitch at
each end.
These steps are the same for all types of pleats.]
[Illustration: _Pinch Pleat_—Divide the large pleat evenly into
three smaller pleats; press in firmly and stitch across the three
folds at lower edge of heading. The Pinch pleat is a favorite finish
for most types of draperies and is particularly good when draperies
are made of a heavier fabric.]
[Illustration: _French Pleat_—At lower edge of heading, divide large
pleat into three smaller pleats and run needle and thread through
three pleats several times, drawing thread tight. Then fasten thread
securely underneath.]
[Illustration: _Box Pleat_—The large pleat is spread an equal
distance on each side of stitching and pressed flat. Box pleats
should be about 2″ wide, taking up 4″ fullness.
When figuring these pleats, try for uniformity; that is, the space
between each pleat (from fold to fold) should be the same as the
width of pleat. Box pleats should be about 2″ wide, taking up 4″
fullness.]
[Illustration: _Cartridge Pleat_—This is a round pleat left loose
and filled with cotton, Kapok or a roll of stiff paper. The pleats
take up 2″ to 2½″ and are spaced from 2″ to 3″ apart for draw type
draperies.]
[Illustration: 1. Type of pins used if curtain is hung from traverse
rod.]
[Illustration: 2. Type of pins used if curtain is hung from rod with
rings or from traverse rod mounted against ceiling.]
Doors or Windows Opening Out
[Illustration: uncaptioned]
Box Pleats, extending above the heading to form a loop, make an
interesting treatment for unlined curtains draping a French window or
door that opens out.
Draperies hang from a rod drawn through the loops. Fabrics, such as
Fortisan blends, antique satin, taffetas and sheer linens are suitable
for these curtains.
Measure from top of rod to floor for length. Add 9½″ at top for seam,
loops, and facing and 6″ for a 3″ double bottom hem. Allow 3 times the
width of space to be covered for fullness.
_Example_: If space to be covered is 52″, 3 lengths of 48″ fabric are
required. Cut one length through center and join each half width to each
one of the full widths. Each section measures approximately 70″. 70″
minus 4″ for 1″ double hems and 3″ for return equals 63″. 7 pleats × 5″
= 35″. 63″ minus 35″ = 28″ for space to be covered and center overlap.
[Illustration: 1. Measuring for pleats, spacings and loops. Pleats
may be wider or as narrow as desired. Spacings may vary, depending
on weight of material. Always consider the pleat overlap.]
[Illustration: 2. Turn top to right side 9½″. Use a stiffening or
stay of lawn or organdy for most light and medium weight materials.
Arrows indicate stitching lines.]
[Illustration: 3. Material is cut out between loops. Seams are
slashed diagonally at corners to line of stitching. Press. If
stiffening is not used as shown in sketches 1 and 2, stitch 4″ strip
of crinoline to hem as shown above. This lends support to pleats.]
[Illustration: 4. Turn loops right side out and hem to underside.
Press. Pin in pleat, stitch same as for Box pleat. Spread pleat,
press.]
[Illustration: 5. Fasten loops to back of pleat by hand. Anchor
curtains at side, top and bottom as shown page 15.]
[Illustration: Pattern for tie-back pinned to material.]
[Illustration: Tie-back stitched—Seam blended ready for turning.]
Tie-Backs
Fabric tie-backs for draperies are usually tailored, straight or shaped
bands which match or harmonize with the drapery in color and design. The
fullness of the drapery determines the length of the tie-back. To
estimate length, loop a strip of material around the drapery, drawing it
back to side of window for the best effect. Lengths may vary from 18″ to
24″ and can be 2½″ or more in width. They are usually lined or faced and
interlined. Use a stiffening of heavy muslin or crinoline in a shaped
band. For shaped band, cut a paper pattern about 3″ or 4″ wide in the
center, tapering to 2″ or 2½″ at the end as illustrated. Cut fabric,
lining and stiffening the same as pattern, allowing for a ⅜″ seam on all
edges.
Pin stiffening to underside of band, and lining to right side of
material—right sides together. Stitch, leaving an opening of 3″ or 4″
for turning.
Trim stiffening to stitching line and blend edge of lining. Press. Turn
band right side out and press. Slip-stitch lining to band at opening.
Sew small bone rings or very narrow fabric loops at ends of band. These
loop over a hook fastened to side of window.
Anchoring Draperies
[Illustration: uncaptioned]
Outside edges of draperies should hang against the wall in a straight
taut line. Sew a plastic ring to the bottom hem. Place a cup hook in the
wall or the baseboard in line with the hem.
_Meet the sewing machine with tomorrow written all over it._
[Illustration: uncaptioned]
_Does all 3 kinds of sewing—straight, zig-zag and chainstitch._
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_New built-in needle threader—ends that last little sewing worry._
_Push-Button Bobbin—winds right in the machine._
_Exclusive Slant Needle—see better, sew smoother._
_New 4-position throat plate lever—an extra for delicate fabrics._
_New buttonholer device—makes 7 kinds of buttonholes easily._
_New Golden Touch & Sew_[1] _sewing machine by Singer._ Be the girl with
the golden touch on this newest and most fabulous of our growing family
of _Touch & Sew_ sewing machines with the Push-Button Bobbin. One of
five new models starting at $149.95.
[Illustration: ™ SINGER]
See SINGER COMPANY in phone book for Shop nearest you.
SINGER SEWING LIBRARY
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[Illustration: SINGER Sewing Library]
Here are the newest, most informative, “how to” sewing books available
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answering all your questions—in as few words as possible—almost before
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101—HOW TO MAKE CURTAINS
102—HOW TO MAKE DRAPERIES
103—HOW TO MAKE VALANCES
104—HOW TO MAKE BEDSPREADS
105—HOW TO LAY OUT A PATTERN AND CUT
106—HOW TO MEASURE, ALTER AND FIT
107—HOW TO MAKE SEAMS AND FINISHES
108—HOW TO MAKE SLEEVES
109—HOW TO MAKE BUTTONHOLES AND POCKETS
110—HOW TO MAKE COLLARS, FINISH NECKLINES
111—HOW TO MAKE ZIPPER CLOSURES
112—HOW TO MAKE BELTS AND HEMS
113—HOW TO MAKE SLIP COVERS
114—HOW TO MAKE CAFE CURTAINS
115—THINGS FOR LITTLE GIRLS TO SEW
116—CREATING CHARM WHEN SEWING FOR GIRLS
117—HOW TO REINFORCE, REPAIR AND REFIT
118—HOW TO DO DRESSMAKER TAILORING
119—HOW TO MAKE APRONS
120—HOW TO MAKE CUSHIONS, PILLOWS, AND BOLSTERS
121—HOW TO SEW FOR BABIES
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[1]A Trademark of THE SINGER COMPANY
_Cover Photograph reprinted from the BRIDE’S MAGAZINE
Copyright 1957, The Condé Nast Publications, Inc._
Printed in the United States of America Book No. 102
Transcriber’s Notes
—Silently corrected a few typos.
—Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook
is public-domain in the country of publication.
—In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by
_underscores_.
End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of How to Make Draperies, by Anonymous
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