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Title: Mother's Knitter
Containing some patterns of things for little children
Author: Elvina M. Corbould
Release Date: August 15, 2020 [EBook #62932]
Language: English
Character set encoding: UTF-8
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MOTHER’S KNITTER.
BY
E. M. C.
CONTAINING SOME PATTERNS OF THINGS FOR LITTLE CHILDREN.
LONDON:
HATCHARDS, PICCADILLY.
1882.
LONDON
PRINTED BY STRANGEWAYS AND SONS,
Tower Street, Upper St. Martin’s Lane.
CONTENTS.
PAGE
GENERAL REMARKS 5
TERMS USED IN KNITTING 6
BABY’S BOOT: SMALL SIZE 22
” ” MEDIUM SIZE 25
” ” FULL SIZE 30
CHILD’S JACKET OR SPENCER 7
” SOCK 19
DAISY-STITCH SHAWL 33
FROCK 10
INDEX OF THINGS IN KNITTING-BOOKS 35
OPEN-WORK PATTERN 18
PETTICOAT 16
SHAWL 34
TAM O’SHANTER CAP 17
GENERAL REMARKS.
Always cast off loosely, unless directed to the contrary.
The size of wool and pins is important in trying a pattern. Wools
necessarily vary, both in quality and price; the best kinds to use for
babies’ boots are Merino, Andalusian, 2-thread Lady Betty, and Eider
yarn. Penelope wool is a trifle thicker, and is sold in 2-oz. skeins.
Small-sized things can be increased by using larger pins and coarser
wool: for instance, the smallest boot in this book can be made to fit a
much older baby by using Berlin fingering and bone pins, No. 13.
_Terms used in Knitting_,
_To increase_, or make.—With your right-hand pin knit through the lower
part of the next stitch as well as through the next stitch. _Or_, if at
the beginning of a row, knit the first stitch, then knit again through
it from the back. _Or_, put the wool before the needle, but this makes a
hole. _Or_, cast on another stitch, and then knit it.
_To decrease._—Knit 2 stitches at the same time so as to make 1 out of
the 2. _Or_, slip a stitch from the left pin to the right without
knitting it, knit the next stitch, then with your left pin pull the
slipped stitch over the knitted one.
_To pearl_, or purl, or seam.—Bring the wool in front of the knitting,
and insert the needle the reverse way through the stitch. Replace the
wool in its right place.
_To raise_, or pick up.—Put your right needle through the knitting, put
the wool round the needle, and draw the wool through the knitting.
MOTHER’S KNITTER.
THE STANDARD OF MEASUREMENT FOR THE KNITTING PINS IS CHAMBERS’ BELL
GAUGE.
_Child’s Jacket or Spencer._
This fastens behind, and fits a child of about eight months’ old; it is
very elastic, and quite an easy pattern.
You require 3 pins No. 8, and 2 ounces Berlin fingering.
Cast on 133 stitches; rib, by knitting 1, pearling 1 all the way
through, taking care that the knitted of one row is the pearled of the
other row. Work for 32 rows, then work backwards and forwards on 34
stitches only, for 19 rows. Then leave this wool and pin for a time, you
will go on with them presently.
Go on with the middle; fasten the wool next to the piece you have just
done, and cast off three stitches, this goes under the arm; work upon
the next 59 for 18 rows, break off the wool.
Knit off the stitches on the right-hand pin, the one you had left with
the wool attached, knit the centre 59 stitches, knitting in the end of
wool to fasten it off securely. Then leave these 93 for a time.
Work the remaining side for 18 rows, and in the 19th you must have all
your stitches again on one pin, namely, 129. The casting off has made
the ribs uneven, so keep the 2 plain stitches, which come together, as
the shoulder seam. These 2 stitches are opposite the cast-off stitches.
In every row decrease on each side of these 2 thus:—Slip 1, knit 1, pass
the slipped over, knit the 2 shoulder stitches, knit 2 together. This
makes 4 decreasings in a row. Do 12 rows, then 3 rows without
decreasing, and make the ribs even now, by knitting 2 together at the
shoulder. Cast off.
_Sleeve._—Hold the shoulder towards you, and pick up 9 stitches rather
close together; the 5th of these 9 stitches ought to be exactly at the
shoulder; pearl back. Always cast on two more stitches at the beginning
of every row, until you have 42 stitches; you must knit and pearl
alternate rows, making the plain side of sleeve the right side of the
spencer.
When you have done 53 rows use steel pins, No. 12, and knit 2 pearl, 2
for 6 rows. Cast off, sew together on the wrong side, then sew in the
sleeve.
_Frock._
This will fit a child of ten months old.
You require 6 skeins of the palest blue Berlin fingering. Be careful to
use the pins as directed, for the goring of the skirt is managed without
decreasings.
Cast on with pins No. 3, 264 stitches.
Knit a row, pearl a row, knit a row, pearl a row, knit a row.
6th row. Knit 1, bring the wool forward, knit 3, slip 1, knit 1, pass
the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 2 together, knit 3, wool
forward, knit 1.
7th row. Pearl.
8th row. This and every alternate row is like the 5th.
9th row. Pearl.
11th row. Pearl.
13th row. Knit; also knit the 15th and 17th rows; then go back to the
5th row.
When 34 rows are done, use pins No. 5. At the 61st row use pins No. 8.
77th row. Like 5th, but omit bringing the wool forward.
78th row. Use steel pins No. 12; you ought to have now 220 stitches.
Decrease about every 9th stitch by pearling 2 together, so as to reduce
your number of stitches to 192.
74th row *. Bring the wool forward, slip 1, inserting the pin as though
you were going to pearl it, knit 2 together; repeat from *. Do 48 rows
in this manner. Note that each chain is 2 rows.
123rd row. Knit 54, that is, 18 sets of 3. Leave the other stitches.
With a third steel pin, No. 12, knit back on these 54 still with the
brioche stitch.
2nd row. Knit 51 (or 17 sets), knit the 3 last together, omitting to
bring the wool forward.
3rd row. Slip 1 in the usual way, brioche the rest. You must always
decrease at the end in every alternate row for the slope. Of course
these decreasings come at the end nearest the middle.
When you have decreased to 42, do 9 rows without decreasings. The body
ought at this side to be 68 rows deep; you are at the beginning of a
row; leave these stitches now, do not break off the wool.
Take another ball, join the end with a wool needle, work upon the centre
84 stitches; slip the last 54 upon a piece of wool.
Decrease at each end of the 84 until you have only 69, then work without
decreasing until this part is the same length as the other. Leave these
stitches and break off the wool; take care that the wool is at the
right-hand end.
Do the last side to match the first, and then leave the body until the
sleeves are ready.
_Sleeve._—Cast on 56 with the steel pins No. 12, knit a row, pearl a
row, knit a row.
4th row. Knit 1, wool forward, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped
over, knit 2 together, knit 1, wool forward, knit 1.
4th row. Pearl. Repeat alternately, but the 11th, 13th, and 15th rows
are knitted.
18th row. Use pins No. 8.
20th row. Slip the 1st, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over. Continue
as usual, but decrease at the end by omitting to put the wool forward.
21st row. Pearl 2 together at the beginning and end of every row. In the
22nd row, knit 3 together to make the pattern even.
32nd row. Cast off 4 stitches, knit 25, cast off the last 4; break off
the wool and fasten it in with a wool needle.
Now go on with the body. Begin from the right side where you had left
your ball of wool. Still use pins No. 12. Plain knitting, taking the
stitch and the wool before it as 1; consequently you have 36 plain
stitches on this pin now. Knit off the 27 sleeve stitches from the No. 8
pin. The remainder is all plain knitting. Knit the centre stitches, knit
off the 27 of your second sleeve, knit the last 54. You ought to have
154 stitches altogether. Do 2 plain rows.
3rd row. Knit 3, knit 2 together alternately.
4th row. Put the wool round the needle every third stitch (above the
decreasing in previous row). This makes holes for running in a ribbon as
a fastening. Do 2 more plain rows. Leave this part; do not break off the
wool.
_Edging for Neck._—Cast on 184 with pins No. 12, and work like sleeve
for 7 rows. Lay this pin beside the neck, and cast off through both at
once, so as to join the two; but remember that the edging has 30 more
stitches than the neck, so you must occasionally take 2 of the border
stitches together. It is easier to do this with a bone crochet-hook than
with a knitting-pin.
Make button-hole by pulling aside the stitches and working over. The
buttons ought to be small, flat moulds, covered with crochet.
It is a good plan to match the sash for the frock with the wool first,
as it is not possible to get in all shades a good match for silk and
wool.
_Petticoat_.
This is a very simple and quick pattern to fit a little child; it is
meant to be sewn to the stays.
Use pins No. 9 and white Scotch fingering. Cast on 150 stitches and knit
plain for 8 inches. Use finer pins for 2 more inches. Then use steel
pins, No. 16, and knit 2, pearl 2, for 6 rows. Cast off. Pull out the
knitting a good deal while you are measuring. This particular work looks
better with the rows wide apart.
_Tam O’Shanter Cap._
The crown is done in crochet, treble or double round and round until
large enough, increasing wherever necessary to make it lie flat. The
improvement is to make the brim of knitting instead of crochet. Use
single Berlin wool, wheeling, or fingering yarn.
For an ordinary size, to measure 22 inches, 114 stitches.
Pick up with 3 pins, No. 14, 38 on each pin, knit 2, pearl 2 for 14
rounds, and cast off very loosely. A tight knitter had better cast on 6
more, as this pattern is for a loose knitter.
For a child of 4 years have 35 stitches on 2 pins, and 36 on the third,
and rib 2 plain, 2 pearl.
_Open-work Pattern._
Cast on in sixes.
1st row. Bring the wool forward before the needle, knit 1, wool forward,
knit 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 1.
2nd row. This and every alternate row pearled.
3rd row. Wool forward, knit 3, wool forward, slip 1, knit 2 together,
pass the slipped stitch over.
5th row. Knit 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slipped over, knit 1,
wool forward, knit 1, wool forward.
7th row. Slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slipped over, wool forward,
knit 3, wool forward.
Always cast on 2 or 4 stitches over, so as to have 1 or 2 stitches plain
at the beginning of each row.
Notice that an open-work pattern of a sock is broader than plain
knitting: it is as well to have a few less stitches for open-work
knitting than for plain knitting.
_Child’s Sock._
This is full size for a child of a year old; the leg is 7 inches, and
the foot 5¾ long, inclusive measurement. 4 pins, No. 16, and 1 skein
Shetland wool. For a smaller sized sock use pins No. 17.
Cast on 71 stitches, rib 2 plain, 2 pearl, for 18 rows, making the 1st
stitch the seam-stitch; that is, you pearl this stitch every 3rd round.
Then plain knitting until the leg is 4½ inches deep. Now, work the
seam-stitch, knit 2 together, and when you come to the last 2 stitches
of the round slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over. Knit 10
rounds and repeat this decreasing. When 5¼ inches are done, divide your
stitches for the heel.
_Heel._—Put 17 stitches on each side of the seam-stitch, have them all
on one pin; you ought to have 35 stitches for your heel. You leave the
other 32 stitches on the 2 remaining pins. Knit and pearl alternate rows
upon these heel-stitches for 2 inches, still making the seam stitch.
When this piece measures 2 inches long you turn the heel.
* Knit to the seam-stitch. Knit that stitch, for henceforward you cease
making it. Knit 4, knit 2 together, knit 1. Turn back, pearl 11, pearl 2
together, pearl 1. Turn back and repeat from *.
You perceive the actual turning of the heel is all on 13 stitches.
Pick up 17 from the side of heel, knit the 32, pick up 17 from the
second side, and now you knit in rounds again. You have 79 stitches.
Reduce at each side every 2nd row until you have only 67. When the foot
measures 4½ inches long, decrease for the toe at each side, thus:—Slip
1, knit 1, pass the slipped over, knit 2, knit 2 together. Knit the
middle 33 stitches, and repeat the decreasings; in this way you get rid
of 4 stitches. Do this every other row. When 5½ inches are done,
measuring from the outside of heel, draw the stitches together with a
needle, or knit together by dividing on to 2 needles, or cast off and
sew up.
_Baby’s Boot: Small Size._
The sock is knitted in Shetland and the shoe in Penelope wool. 2 pins,
No. 15, and 2 No. 17.
Cast on 27 stitches for the sole, which is all plain knitting. Increase
at the end of every row until you have 36 stitches. Discontinue
increasing now, and knit 3, pearl 3, for 3 rows.
Then change the squares to make an even pattern; pearling where you had
knitted in the previous row.
Go on in this way for 12 rows. Work 24 stitches, then slip them on a
piece of wool. Work the other 12 stitches and knit twice into the last
stitch. Increase twice at this side at the end of every row for 7 rows,
until you have 20 stitches. Be careful to keep the squares even. Do one
row without increasing, then decrease at the same place at the beginning
and at the end of every row until you have 12 again. Cast on 24 more
stitches opposite the other side. Do 12 rows of the pattern, then
decrease at each end until you have only 27. Cast off.
Go on with the 24 which you had slipped on a piece of wool, slip the
point of the pin through 12 stitches from the front across the instep,
then run it through the 24 stitches which you had cast on for the second
side. This makes 60 altogether. Knit a row, pearl a row, alternately;
the pearled rows come on the right side of the shoe and make a roll. Do
4 rows and cast off.
With the Shetland and pins No. 16 raise 16 stitches quite underneath the
roll at the instep (where you had picked up the 12), knit and pearl
alternate rows 18 times. Be careful that the plain rows come on the
right side.
19th row. Raise 23 on the left side, pearl back on these 39 stitches,
raise 23 from the next side. Knit alternate pearl and plain rows for 28
rows, rib for 10 rows and cast off very loosely. Sew up very carefully,
especially at the toe; it is a very good shape if not made too broad.
_Strap._—Cast on 17 with pins No. 15 and Penelope wool; fasten to the
heel by knitting on 5 stitches behind the roll, working through the
heel-stitches of the boot; cast on 17 more stitches: you ought to have
39 altogether. Knit 2 plain rows.
3rd row. Knit 2, knit 2 together, wool forward; repeat. Knit 2 more
plain rows, and cast off. Make a crochet chain or twist of wool and run
it through these holes; add a ball at each end of it.
_Baby’s Boot: Medium Size._
Merino or Andalusian wool, and pins No. 14.
All these patterns can have the sock worked in white, and the shoe part
in a colour, but all white is preferable.
Cast on 48, and do 14 rows of ribbed knitting. Then knit a row, pearl a
row for 2 inches; or work this part in any open-work pattern, of which
there are so many in _The Lady’s Knitting-Books_, especially on page 56
of 1st Series.
1st row of instep. Knit 18; leave these stitches for a time: you can
slip them on a piece of wool, and knit backwards and forwards on the
centre 12 stitches for 18 rows. Suppose you have made the leg open-work
knitting, this must be done the same. You can slip the last 18 stitches
also on a piece of wool.
19th row. If you are using two colours, you must now join the coloured
wool, which is used for the remainder of the boot. Plain knitting.
20th row. Knit.
21st row. Pearl.
22nd row. Knit.
23rd row. Knit. Pearl the next row, and continue thus to make ridges of
3 lines. When 4 ridges are done, you must decrease for the toe. Pearl
the 12 stitches as usual to keep the ridges even. Then for the 13th row
work thus:—Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 6, knit 2 together, knit 6,
knit 2 together, knit 1.
14th row. Pearl.
15th row. Like 13th, but knit 4 instead of 6.
16th row. Knit.
17th row. Pearl 1, pearl 2 together, pearl 2, pearl 2 together, pearl 1.
18th row. Slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 2, knit the
last 2 together. This finishes the toe. Break off the wool and fasten in
the end.
Go on with the right-hand pin which has the 18 stitches on it; knit
these off, then raise 24 from the side; knit the 4 toe stitches. Now
take a third pin (you only use it once, so it does not matter if it is
not the same size) and run through the 18 stitches you had slipped on
the piece of wool, and raise 24 from the side of instep: knit these off.
You have now 88 stitches altogether. Pearl the next row, knit the next
2, and so on, to keep the ridges even. Do 4 of these ridges.
13th row. You have the wrong side of the knitting towards you. Knit 3,
knit 2 together, knit 31, knit 2 together, knit 12, knit 2 together,
knit 31, knit 2 together, knit 3.
14th row. Pearl.
15th row. Knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 30, knit 2 together, knit 10,
knit 2 together, knit 30, knit 2 together, knit 3.
16th row. Pearl.
17th row. Knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 29, knit 2 together, knit 8,
knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 29, knit 2 together, knit
3.
18th row. As usual.
19th row. Knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 28, knit 2 together, knit 6,
knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 28, knit 2 together, knit
3.
Slip half your stitches on another pin, lay the pins alongside, and cast
off through both stitches at once.
_Strap._—Cast on 20 stitches; then cast on 5 more, at the same time
drawing the wool through the shoe itself, exactly in the centre of the
upper ridge at the heel. This makes 45 altogether; pearl back.
2nd row. Knit 1, knit 3 together, knit the rest.
3rd. Pearl 41, pearl into the long stitch, pearl again into it by
twisting it, pearl the last. Knit the next row and cast off. Sew a
button to the other side.
This pattern is very pretty, with the leg and open-work pattern done in
Shetland wool. In either silk or Shetland, and pins No. 17, cast on 64
stitches, have 14 for the instep, which must be about 18 rows long. Then
join the Andalusian wool for the ridges, which make the toe, and do the
shoe also in Andalusian.
_Baby’s Boot: Full Size._
You require a skein of Shetland wool, and one of Penelope yarn, two pins
No. 16, and two bone No. 13. With pins No. 16, cast on 72 stitches. You
can use the same number of stitches for silk. Knit the 1st and 3rd rows,
pearl the 2nd.
4th row. Knit 1, wool forward, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped
over, knit 2 together, knit 1, wool forward, knit 1. Repeat.
5th row. Plain.
Repeat these two rows for 2½ inches. Cast off 26, knit 46. In the next
row cast off 24 stitches, and work backwards and forwards, keeping the
pattern even, upon the middle 20 stitches. Pearl the alternate rows.
Work 22 rows, cast off.
_Boot._—The coarser wool and pins. Cast on 28, knit the first row. Then
always increase at the end of every row until you have 38 stitches. Do
15 rows without increasing.
_Toe._—21st row. Work only on 13 stitches, leaving 25 unworked. You can
slip these on a piece of wool. Increase 1 at the end of every row; this
increasing is at the end farthest away from the 25 stitches. When you
have 23 stitches, decrease at the same place every alternate row, by
knitting the last 2 together until you have 13 again. Cast on 25 more
for the second side, do 15 plain rows, then decrease at the end of each
row, until you have only 28 stitches. Cast off.
Go on with those on the third pin. Raise 12 on the instep, raise the
stitches you first cast on. You ought to have 63 stitches. Join the
wool; knit a row, pearl a row, knit a row, pearl a row, cast off. Sew
the Shetland part to the Penelope, beginning at the instep, then sew
from the heel, so as to be sure that the sock shall be put in exactly
even. Last of all, sew up the boot; all this sewing to be on the wrong
side, of course.
Make the strap as described in either of the previous patterns. The last
is advised.
This pattern can be knitted in a quicker way for common wear by doing it
entirely in Penelope wool.
For full size use bone pins No. 13. Cast on 34 for the sole; work the
boot as described, only allow for these extra 6 stitches; then do the
roll, for which you raise 15 at the instep. It does not signify whether
the roll curls inward or outward, that is a matter of taste. Begin the
sock at the instep by raising 14 stitches, knit and pearl alternate
rows, to look like a stocking, for 11 rows, then raise the last 14 on
each side, and knit all the 42 stitches, pearl the alternate rows.
Do 16 rows, rib 12 rows, cast off very loosely.
_Daisy Stitch Shawl._
Knitted with white and coloured wool, any fine kind, and coarse needles.
You must increase at the end of every row.
Cast on 5 with white and pearl them. Slip the first, wool forward, knit
3, slip the first of these over the other 2.
This makes the daisy. Knit the other 2. Now join the colour and pearl
back. The alternate rows are always pearled, and you must always change
the colour then.
The next row is fancy knitting, and is always alike. When there is 1
stitch left you knit plain, and increase as usual; but when there are 2
you pick up another between, so as to have the 3 stitches necessary for
the pattern.
_Shawl._
This is quite easy work. It is very soft and warm, and is meant to take
the place of a long first cloak. It is all plain knitting with a good
border.
You require 1½ lb. of white Berlin fingering wool and long wooden pins,
No. 3.
Cast on 1 stitch and increase at the end of every row until the knitting
measures 1 yard and 5 inches deep, then decrease by knitting the last 2
in every row together, until you have only 2. Cast them off.
_Border._—Work 1 round of double crochet.
2nd round. 1 long treble (wool twice round the hook), 1 chain, miss 1.
Repeat.
3rd round. Do 2 rounds of fan-pattern (page 16 of _The Lady’s
Crochet-Book_, third Series). Increase at the corners.
6th round. Work 8 treble into a hole, miss a hole, 1 single into the
next, and so on to make a scallop.
Run a thick cream satin ribbon all round the shawl in the spaces left by
the long treble.
_Index of Things to be found in ‘The Lady’s Knitting-Books,’ Parts_ I.,
II., III., _and_ IV. _The Number of Part is given._
A
Antimacassars _Parts_ I., III., IV.
Arrow Pattern I.
B
Baby’s Boots I., II., III., IV.
” Hood I., II.
” Quilt I.
Bag III., IV.
Balls III.
Berceaunette Blanket III.
” Cover I., III.
Bodices I., IV.
Borders I., III.
Braces IV.
Brioche Knitting I.
C
Cable Knitting I.
Canadian Cloud I.
Cardinal Cape III.
Carriage Rug I., III., IV.
Child’s Chemise III.
Comforter I.
Counterpanes I., II., III.
Couvrettes I., II., III., IV.
Crimean Helmet II.
Cushion I., IV.
D
Double Knitting I.
E
Edgings I., III.
F
Fancy Stitches I., II., III., IV.
Fringe I.
Frock III.
G
Gaiters I., II.
Gloves IV.
H
Hassock III.
Hearth Rug I.
Hood II.
J
Jackets IV.
Jerseys I., III.
K
Knee-cap I.
L
Loop Knitting I.
M
Mittens III., IV.
Muff II.
Muffatees I., III., IV.
N
Night Sock I.
O
Open-work Patterns I., II., III., IV.
Opera Cloak II., III.
P
Pence Jugs I., II.
Petticoats I., II., III., IV.
Pincushion II.
Purse I.
Q
Quilts (_see Counterpanes_).
S
Scalloped Edging I., III.
Scotch Cap for Pence III.
Shawls I.
Sleeves III.
Slipper with Warm Lining IV.
Socks I.
Sofa Blankets IV.
Stockings I.
” on Two Pins III.
Swiss Brioche Stitch III.
T
Tea Cosey II., IV.
Tippets II., III.
Towel IV.
U
University Boating Jersey III.
V
Veil II.
Vests I., II., III., IV.
W
Waistcoats I.
Window Curtains III.
Work for Poor People IV.
WORK BOOKS BY E. M. C.
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The Four in One Vol., cloth gilt, 4_s._ 6_d._
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Transcriber’s Notes
—Silently corrected a few typos.
—Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook
is public-domain in the country of publication.
—In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by
_underscores_.
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