The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Florist and Horticultural Journal, Vol.
II. No. 7, July, 1853, by Various

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Title: The Florist and Horticultural Journal, Vol. II. No. 7, July, 1853
      A Monthly Magazine of Horticulture, Agriculture, Botany,
      Agricultural Chemistry, Entomology, &c.

Author: Various

Editor: H. C. Hanson

Release Date: November 11, 2018 [EBook #58276]

Language: English

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[Illustration: BEGONIA XANTHINA.]




                              THE FLORIST
                      AND HORTICULTURAL JOURNAL.

         Vol. II.]      Philadelphia, July, 1853.      [No. 7.




BEGONIA XANTHINA.

YELLOW-FLOWERED BEGONIA.

Begoniaceæ.—Monœcia-Polandria.


   CHARAC. GENER.—Flores monoici. MASC. Perigonii tetraphylli
   foliolis subrotundis, 4 exterioribus majoribus. Stamina
   plurima; filamentis brevissimis liberis v. basi-connatis,
   antheris extrorsis bilocularibus, loculis linearibus discretis,
   connectivi continui obtusi margini adnatis longitudinaliter
   dehiscentibus. FEM. Perigonii tubo triptero cum ovario connate,
   limbi superi 4-9-partiti persistentis lobis pluriseriatim
   imbricatis. Ovarium interum triloculare. Ovula in placentis
   e loculorum angulo centrali bilamellatis plurima anatropa.
   Styli 3 bifidi stigmatihus crassis flexuosis v. capitatis.
   Capsula membranaceo-trialata trilocularis loculicide trivalvis.
   Semina plurima minima striata. Embryo in axi albuminis carnosi
   orthotropus.

   Herbæ _in Asia et America tropica indigenæ, foliis alternis
   petiolatis integris v. palmatilobis basi saepecordatis
   inæquilateris integerrimis dentatis v. mucronatoserrutis_
   stipulis _lateralibus membranaceis deciduis_, cymis
   _axillaribus pedunculatis dichotomis_ floribus _albis roseis v.
   rubincundis_.

   CHARACT. SPECIF.—B. acaulis, rhizomate brevi crasso subtus
   radicante, foliis amplis oblique cordato-ovatis brevi
   acuminatis sinuatis denticulatis subtus discoloribus (rubris)
   petiolis aggregatis crassis folium subaequantibus rubris
   stipulatis crinitis, setis patentibus interioribus reflexis,
   scapo petiolis duplo longiore, floribus nutantibus corymbosis
   flavis, masculis tetrasepalis, sepalis 5 oblongo-cuneatis unico
   majore rotundato magis concavo, foeminis triplo minoribus
   hexasepalis, sepalis æqualibus ovali-rotundatis, fructus alis
   duabus brevibus unica horizontaliter elongata striata. HOOK.

                       _Begonia xanthina_, HOOK, Bot. Mag. t. 4683.

Although many different species of this valuable genus have been
discovered up to this time, we have had only those with white or red
flowers. B. cinnabarina with its orange red flowers was an approach to
what we now figure—the Begonia xanthina. But even the yellow of this is
shaded with the red which prevails in a greater or less degree in the
flowers or leaves, and stalks of all the genus.

This species, which flowered in July, 1852, in the collection of Mr.
Nuttall, at Rainhill, Lincolnshire, was received by him in 1850, from the
Bootan Himalayas, having been sent thence by his nephew, Mr. Booth.

It may be some time before this beautiful plant is imported into this
country; but we know that our enterprizing nurserymen and amateurs will
obtain it as soon as it finds its way into the hands of the trade in
Europe.


HISTORY AND CULTIVATION.

Few plants have a greater claim on the American plant grower than the
_Begonia_. It has been too much the habit to sigh after, and bewail the
want of “Chiswick Heaths,” and other things which _do not_ do well in
America, to the manifest neglect of many beautiful things which _do_. It
is time we had ceased to be the mere copyists of English horticulture.
We have so rapidly advanced, that we should aim at an independence that
can be achieved; and, as in government so in gardening, take our place
as one of the horticultural “nations of the earth.” We have been a
“colony of Chiswick and Edinboro,” “Paris and Ghent” hitherto; we have
experienced on every occasion slights and neglects; whatever we do is
passed over in silence, and whatever we discover remains unnoticed or is
scorned. These are some of our grievances. All our horticultural papers
have taken up the subject in turn, and pressed our claims on English
journalists; but how have they been met? A private letter on the success
of one individual plant has been published in one magazine; and two
hybrid Peonys have been named in Belgium in honor of Americans. Perhaps
once a year a short extract in the _Revue horticole_ on _Forsythia
viridissima_ from the _Horticulturist_; or, a notice in the _Gardener’s
Chronicle_ of how to preserve Tomatoes from _Hovey’s Magazine_. We must
have done with whining and complaining about these things. Let us strike
out new courses for ourselves. We may never hope to excel them in Heaths,
Pansies, Calceolarias, or many other things, as a general rule, nor is it
desirable we should. Let them boast of their excellence; we will raise
another standard.

The BEGONIA is peculiarly adapted to become such a plant as I have
described. Requiring in England a moist and very artificial atmosphere,
it does not make any very great progress in popular estimation. Here it
thrives with very common care; all doing in a greenhouse 9 months in
the year; and many doing well in the open air, if in a somewhat shaded
situation. They are for the most part natives of Brazil or Mexico.

To cultivate them successfully we must divide them into two classes:—the
_tuberous_ rooted, and the _shrubby_. Each of these will require separate
treatment. The following kinds are amongst the best in cultivation,
either here, or in English gardens, from whence they can be easily
procured.


TUBEROUS ROOTED.

1. B. discolor or Evansiana, native of China, with pinkish white flowers,
may be had in bloom from May to October.

2. cinnabarina, from Bolivia, deep pink or cinnabar, from June to October.

3. Martiana, from Brazil, deep pinky rose, from July to October.

4. diptera, Cape of Good Hope, whitish, June to August.

5. Barkeri, Mexico, dull white, February to December.

These require to be kept rather dry and cool in the winter season. No. 5.
may be had in flower all the year, by having several pots, and keeping
them dry at different periods. Early in spring the tubers may be potted
in 6 in. pots, in a soil composed of well-decayed leaf mould, loam, and
sand. They require little water till the leaves appear, when they will
take an abundance. They may be forwarded in a little heat, but will do
pretty well if allowed to come along with the season. They are easily
propagated from their tubers, by cuttings, or by seeds.


SHRUBBY OR FIBROUS ROOTED.

1. B. nitida, native of Jamaica, with pinkish white flowers, and large,
thick, shining leaves. May be had in bloom all the year, and made into
handsome specimens.

2. B. spathulata, another West Indian, with a very erect habit of growth.
The leaves are folded in like spoons, and the small white flowers appear
at the ends of the young growth. It flowers from August to December, and
is but an average kind.

3. B. odorata, a Brazilian kind allied to the last, but has a fine
foliage, resembling nitida, the flowers came out like the last from
August to December, are much larger and sweet scented.

4. B. hirtella, a Brazilian species, with a rather starved looking habit
of growth, but an abundance of small, pinky white flowers, appearing from
June to December.

5. B. ulmifolia, a South American, with elm like leaves, but of no great
beauty of flower. Only desirable to form a collection.

6. B. argyrostigma, a Brazilian species, with curiously spotted leaves,
which is its chief attraction. The flowers appear from June to December.
It is a very strong grower—occupies much room.

7. B. hydrocotylifolia, a Brazilian pretty species. It is herbaceous, or
has its leaves from a rhizoma creeping on the surface. Its pink flowers,
borne on scapes about a foot high, appear from February to May.

8. B. parvifolia, a native of the Cape of Good Hope. It has very small
leaves, grows about 2 feet high, and is always in flower. A white
flowering and desirable kind.

9. B. albo-coccinea, a West Indian. Its oblique leaves are almost round,
are very large and thick, and of a deep red beneath. The flowers appear
from February to May; white on the inside, and scarlet on the back. The
best of the rhizoma producing kinds.

10. B. nomonyma, a Brazilian species, in the way of B. manicata, with
small white flowers, continuing from July to November.

11. B. castaneæfolia. The specimens that I have seen growing are so like
B. ulmifolia, that I have either not seen the true species or they are
both the same.

12. B. Fischeri, a rather scarce Brazilian species, but one of the most
desirable, approaching B. incarnata. In the spring months it is covered
with its numerous pink or white flowers.

13. B. incarnata, a South American, that should be No. 1 in all
collections. Its pink flowers may be had nearly all the year.

14. B. coccinea, another first rate Brazilian. A strong grower, covered
with spikes of scarlet flowers from April to July.

15. B. manicata, from Brazil. A fine species when well grown, though the
individual flowers are indifferent. The leaves are distinguished by a
production resembling the claws of a mole on their under surface. Flowers
in winter and spring.

16. B. fuchsoides, a well known species from New Grenada, with fuchsia
like foliage, and scarlet flowers, appearing from June to September, a
strong grower and fine kind.

The species of this division are readily propagated from cuttings of
the half ripened wood, put in sand, and plunged in a slight bottom
heat. They are liable to damp off if kept too close. Indeed if they are
in a situation somewhat shaded they will do better without the usual
accompaniment of a bell glass. They will grow well in a soil of sandy
loam and leaf mould. They should never be grown in very large pots; or,
in the language of gardeners, should be always under potted. When growing
fast they take a good supply of moisture; love a moist atmosphere and
frequent applications of the syringe, and may be placed in the full
light. If a moist atmosphere cannot be maintained, they will do better in
a shaded part of the green house. The chief thing to guard against, is
their damping off; small, well drained pots are the securities. When they
are not growing they will live and do better with very little water. They
are easily raised from seed, sown on the surface of the soil in pans, and
placed in a warm shaded place, with the only attention of never being
allowed to get dry. Some fine varieties, I believe, have been lately
raised by hybridizing in Europe. It opens a fine field.

I think the remark of the Calendar writer in the last No. worthy of
repetition; that the Horticultural Society would do well to encourage the
growth of the Begonia by a premium.

                                                A PHILADELPHIA GARDENER.




THE AURICULA.


Dear Sir:

Allow me to draw the attention of your readers to that much neglected
but truly desirable class of flowers the Auricula. There appears to be a
general idea prevailing amongst many persons that considerable difficulty
is experienced in cultivating this lovely gem in our climate. This notion
is certainly erroneous, and the object of the following remark is to
show how this may be accomplished. The Auricula, (Primula auricula,)
is one of the very numerous species of Primrose, and no mean species
either. Linnaeus claims this genus for Pentandria monogynia, and it
forms the type of the natural order Primulaceæ. Our present subject is
indigenous to the alpine districts of the European continent, Syria, and
occasionally is found in the same situations in Britain, though rare. Its
name Auricula has been applied from the supposed resemblance of the form
of the leaves, to the ear of an animal, and hence the vulgar cognomen
“Bear’s Ears,” a name somewhat revolting to the taste of some of our
delicate and sensitive belles, but quite in character with the quaint
and uncouth, yet intelligent and enthusiastic class of individuals,
with whom it originated. In a wild state, the colours are yellow,
purple, and variegated, and I am inclined to think, in opposition to the
acknowledgement of some botanist, that two or three which are considered
as distinct species, are nothing more than varieties of this, if so we
may include white also. Handsome as the different varieties of this
flower appear naturally, the claim to beauty has been so much enhanced,
by the perseverance and enthusiasm of the florist’s fostering care, for
the last three hundred years, that at length, it has assumed a perfect
symmetry of outline and marking, which renders it truly a gem. Were it
only for the peculiarly rich odor of the flowers, it deserves a place in
every garden, but when we combine this with the evergreen and neat habit
of the plant, and the exquisite beauty of the flower, it seems strange as
the cultivation is so easy, that it is not more generally seen, even what
is grown are mostly varieties of no pretension to perfection, but simply
a step or two removed from the natural state.

The Auricula is divided by florists into four classes, viz, green edged,
gray edged, white edged, and selfs, the edged classes being mostly
esteemed as exhibition flowers, although the selfs are tolerated and
encouraged. There are also, several double varieties, but these are not
considered equally valuable, yet they are well worthy of attention.

The following criteria constitute what is considered to be the main
points of excellence in a prize Auricula. The stem should be strong,
erect, and high enough to raise the truss of flowers above the foliage.
The individual footstalk, sufficiently strong to support the flower, and
of a proportional length to the number of pips, so that they may not
crowd each other, and which should not be less than seven in number, that
the truss may be close and compact, and form somewhat a half globe. The
tube containing the anthers, the eye, and the exterior circle, ought to
be well proportioned, which will be the case if the diameter of the tube
be one part, the eye three, and the whole pip six or seven. If edged the
margin should be about equal with the next inner circle. The edges ought
to be smooth, having no serrature, so as to appear starry, and the limb
or upper surface, flat and even. The nearer the outline approaches to a
perfect circle the better, although the very best flowers do not quite
come up to this point as yet. Whatever the colours, they should be clear,
bold, and distinct, and divided in a perfect circle, or the dark markings
form a circle next the eye, and extend out towards the outer rim on each
lobe, so as to form so many half circles. In the selfs the colours ought
to be uniform, bright and solid, or shaded off towards the outer margin
distinctly and clear.

Around the cultivation of nature’s greatest beauties there is generally
a halo of mystery thrown. When any thing of this kind becomes recognized
as a general favorite, speculative ideas, and vague theories have each
a portion of precedence, and as some of these peculiarities happen to
succeed, they are lauded, made public, and the tyro catches up the most
ridiculous notions. Our present subject has not entirely escaped from
this general contagion, for if we refer to some old and long established
growers of the Auricula, we find that one thinks that the rotted down
roots of the Willow, is the only matrix in which it will approach
perfection; others again suppose, that nothing is so suitable as rushes
decomposed into mould, and a portion of the same material cut short
in a fresh state, and strewed over the drainage; while some will not
believe in any fertilizer, but blood, mixed up with maiden earth, and
laid together for a season. Now all these materials are well enough in
their place for other things besides the Auricula, but to say that they
are absolutely necessary, and that nothing else will produce the same
quality, partakes of a superstitious and retrograde movement, and belongs
to the old school. The fact is, all that is required, is a tolerably
rich and cool base, for if too poor the plant will be weak and the
flowers correspondingly so, and if too rich the trusses are apt to become
monstrosities, having irregular shaped flowers, and too crowded to form a
handsome bunch, with confused colours, and undefined markings. In these
remarks, I would not wish to detract from the honor due to the old floral
veterans, to whose zeal we owe a debt of gratitude, whose exertions have
produced many of the very best flowers, and without which we should have
been minus of many classes of the greatest beauty. Still we must move
ahead we live in an age of progress, and if we cannot accomplish greater
individual perfection, we can certainly attain to the same by more simple
means. To grow the Auricula, plant in a tolerably rich soil, a suitable
compost may be formed, by mixing two thirds fresh loam from a pasture,
and one third cow dung, well rotted, and laid in a heap a few months
before being used. Fresh dung injures the colours, and causes the plant
to grow too rank and deficient in substance, when thin and papery flowers
are the consequence.

The Auricula may be grown in pots, or planted out into frames, or the
open ground. If it is desirable to have a show of this flower in the
greenhouse or parlour window; about the middle of August, prepare a
quantity of six inch pots, place in the bottom of each, about an inch of
broken crocks, or what is better the same depth of lumps of charcoal,
over this put a layer of moss or fibry turf, to prevent the soil from
falling down amongst the drainage, next fill in a portion of the above
mentioned compost, and place into the centre of each pot a good and
strong single crown. Before planting examine the roots and cut away any
decayed portions, spread them out carefully, and fill up to the rim with
soil, press it a little tight about the crown, and give the pot a smart
rap or two upon the potting bench, which will settle all and leave a
little space for future watering, do not plant too deep, but let the
collar of the plant be somewhat elevated, which will prevent damping off,
after potting give a good watering, but do not repeat this afterwards
further, than to keep the plant in health, for the Auricula is impatient
of too much moisture, and most particularly so while at rest in the
winter. In order to avoid continued saturation, the pots should be placed
in a position where the water can pass away freely, and likewise shaded
from the sun’s rays; if plunged in a bed of sand or porous ashes, so much
the better, and if worms should get into the pots, give it a soaking when
dry with lime water, using the clear liquid; here they may remain till
the approach of severe weather, when the pots ought to be washed and the
plants carefully looked over (all decayed leaves should be removed clean
away,) when they may be taken into the greenhouse and placed near the
glass, freely exposed to the air and light; water carefully and rather
sparingly at first, afterwards gradually increase it, (but at no time
unduly,) as they advance towards blooming; do not give much artificial
heat, or the flowers will be rendered weak or abortive; a Camellia or
Geranium house is quite hot enough, in which a temperature of 45 at night
ought to be kept.

Where there is not the luxury of a greenhouse, the same object may be
accomplished by a common garden frame, (in fact a much better display to
my taste) and with much less trouble and expense considering the great
number of plants that may grown. In this case, during the latter part of
August, or early in September, place one or more frames, according to the
number of plants, in a situation freely exposed to the sun, and upon a
well drained bottom, dig up the base so that the water may pass freely
through, and fill in with about eight inches of the before mentioned
compost, divide the plants into single crowns, the same as recommended
for pots, and plant about six inches apart; if dry weather give a good
watering, and keep off the glass till frosty weather sets in, when the
sashes may be put on, and air admitted freely through the day. In case
of rain the lights may be tilted up at the back, which will keep the
plants dry and prevent any danger from rot. Open early in the morning,
and keep all at rest till towards the middle of January, when the lights
may be closed somewhat earlier in the evening, and the sun’s heat allowed
more freely: cover with straw mats or other material, to keep out the
frost, and line round the sides with rough litter or clean straw for the
same purpose. When the flower trusses commence to push, water may be
more freely given, but not overhead, unless in case of a genial showers,
which seldom occurs at this time, and after the pips begin to expand,
do not let even the rain in upon them, as much of the fine powdery
substance, which constitutes a great portion of their beauty, would be
thereby washed off, but apply water more freely between the rows, admit
air sufficient, but avoid beating winds. By following these directions,
and having a good stock of plants, the lover of flowers may be rewarded
through the months of March and April, without the aid of a greenhouse,
with one of the loveliest sights, and most enchanting scents in Flora’s
kingdom. So far we have spoken of the little favorite as a nursling and
treasured up pet, but like many other of God’s blessings, it is not
so very mindful of man’s fostering care. There are many of our city
yards in which there is a shaded and sheltered spot, in all such there
is ample accommodation for this plant; use a fertile and well drained
soil, screened from the burning orb of summer, and the thawing gleams of
winter, and we can be recompensed by a sight of its beauty, and refreshed
by its delicious odor, without any other protection, although of course
if protected and taken care of under glass, we have greater perfection,
and shall be no losers for our extra trouble.

After blooming is fairly over, choose a piece of ground sheltered from
the midday sun, if moist but yet drained, so much the better, plant out
in rows a foot apart, and six inches in the row, place a little deeper
than before, which will cause them to push out side roots. If dry give
a good watering when planted and an occasional repetition, in case of
drought through the summer; no further care is required, unless Red
Spider, or Aphides should attack, when a good syringing with soap-suds,
will speedily eradicate them.

The following list, containing twelve of the best in each class, is from
the authority of Mr. John Slater, one of the “Lancashire Heroes,” and a
sure guide, a man whose enthusiasm knows no bounds, and whose honesty is
equal to his perseverance.


GREEN EDGED.

Litton’s Imperator, Leed’s Colonel Taylor, Booth’s Freedom, Pollitt’s
Highland Laddie, Ashton’s Prince of Wales, Pollitt’s Standard of England,
Yates’ Morris Green Hero, Oliver’s Lovely Ann, Barlow’s King, Howard’s
Nelson, Moore’s Jubilee, Page’s Champion.


GREY EDGED.

Cheetham’s Lancashire Hero, Syke’s Complete, Kenyon’s Ringleader, Grimes’
Privateer, Fletcher’s Ne Plus Ultra, Fletcher’s Mary Ann, Waterhouse’s
Conqueror of Europe, Rider’s Waterloo, Kent’s Queen Victoria, Taylor’s
Plough Boy, Beeston’s Fair Flora, Ashworth’s Newton Hero.


WHITE EDGED.

Taylor’s Favorite, Lee’s Venus, Ashworth’s Regular, Taylor’s
Incomparable, Taylor’s Glory, Wood’s Delight, Catharina, Popplewell’s
Conqueror, Kenyon’s Lord Chancellor, Hepworth’s True Briton, Cheetham’s
Countess of Wilton, Pott’s Regulator.


SELFS.

Netherwood’s Othello, Kay’s Jupiter, Blegg’s Blue Bonnet, Berry’s Lord
Primate, Berry’s Lord Lee, Grimes’ Flora’s Flag, Redmayne’s Metropolitan,
Schole’s Ned Lud, Whittaker’s True Blue, Bradshaw’s Tidy, Barker’s
Nonsuch, Gorton’s Stadtholder.

Yours Most Respectfully,

                                                  WILLIAM CHORLTON,
                                          _New Brighton, Staten Island_.

June 27, 1853.




GARDENS OF PAEONIA MOUTAN IN CHINA.

BY R. FORTUNE.


These gardens are situated near the village of Fa-who, about 5 or 6 miles
west from Shanghae, in the midst of a vast country of cotton plantations.
On the way I met a large number of _coolies_ each carry two baskets
of Moutan-paeonies in full flower; they went to sell them in market.
Arrived at the gardens I found there a number of these plants in flower
and of a remarkable beauty. The purple and lilac species especially
attracted the sight: among others a very pretty kind apparently distinct,
with finely cut leaves and flowers of a velvety purple, like the Tuscany
rose of our gardens. The Chinese call it Moutan Peony (black) and I
believe it to be the same as that called _atro-sanguinea_ by Dr. Lindley,
in the journal of the Horticultural Society of London. Another species
called “tse” or purple, had double flowers of a remarkable size; it is
probably this variety which they say has a thousand petals, and did not
exist but in the garden of the emperor. The third kind is called “lan”
(blue;) it is a lilac variety; its flowers are of the color of Wistaria
Sinensis. There are besides other kinds of purple differently shaded,
very distinct from the preceding and equally beautiful.

The double whites are also numerous and very remarkable. The largest
among them has been called _P. globosa_ by Dr. Lindley, but there are 4
or 5 others which approach very near to this. Some have a light shade
of lilac, which gives tone to their color. The best is that called
“wang” (yellow) by the Chinese; this variety, of a straw color, is very
beautiful, but notwithstanding inferior to some others.

The red peonies (Hong) are equally numerous. What is strange, is, that
the kinds common at Canton and in England, are very rare here. These
gardens contain about a half-dozen of new varieties of red peonies; among
others, that called “Van-yang-hong” by the Chinese, is the most beautiful
plant which I have ever seen. Its flowers are of a bright and pure red,
entirely different from all the others perfectly double; each of them is
about ten inches in diameter. In all I counted nearly thirty distinct
varieties in these gardens.

The greater part of these beautiful varieties of Paeonia Moutan are
unknown at Canton. This may seem strange in a country where flowers
are so generally sought for; but the Chinese are in everything such
conservatives that a slight acquaintance with their customs will suffice
to explain this apparent anomaly. The gardens of Canton derive their
supplies of P. Moutan from a district situated more in the west than
Shanghae. From time immemorial the same gardens have furnished these
flowers; they arrive always by the same road, and at the same time of the
year. It seems that Shanghae until the end of the last war, has never
been in communication with Canton, at least in what concerns flowers,
consequently these beautiful varieties of Peony could not obtain a route
towards the south and thence to Europe.

The establishments where they cultivate exclusively the Paeonia Moutan
are numerous, but very small. They have the appearance of our cottage
gardens, and are cared for in the same way, that is, by all the members
of the family: the women take as much part in it as the men: they are
very avaricious and love money extremely. When they have been consulted,
I always had to pay dearer for the acquisitions of plants which I
made. The soil of these gardens is rich and well-manured; this latter
circumstance renders it less compact than the soil where they cultivate
cotton.

The propagation and management of the Paeonia Moutan seems to have been
perfectly understood by the Chinese at Shanghae, much better than with
us. Our horticulturists complain without ceasing of the difficulty of
multiplying this beautiful plant, and this makes the price remain high.
Here is the method which the Chinese pursue, and which our growers may
try.

At the commencement of October, they collect in the sheds and out-houses
a great quantity of the roots of a certain herbaceous Peony, roots which
must serve for subjects of Paeonia Moutan. The bundle of tubercles which
forms the root of a herbaceous peony is divided, and each little root, in
shape of a finger, becomes a subject upon which they graft the P. Moutan.
Having placed a great number of these tubercles upon the potting table,
they bring the grafts of the plants which they wish to multiply. Each
graft is but an inch and a half to two inches long; it is the extremity
of a shoot made during the summer just finished. The under part of it is
cut into a wedge and inserted on the top of the finger shaped tubercle
of which we spoke. The graft is covered by a ligature or by clay and the
operation is complete. A great number of grafts being thus made, they
are carried to the garden and planted in rows distant about a foot and a
half; the same space is left between plants in the same row. In planting,
the head of the graft only remains above the soil; the part where the
graft unites with the tubercle is always buried. Kaempfer says that the
Chinese multiply the Moutan Peony by bud-grafting; this is an error, this
process is never practiced by them, they do not even understand it. The
author has been led into the error by the smallness of the bud which they
use, this having but one eye at its end.

Each autumn sees thousands of plants grafted in this way. The little
empty space which may be seen in the rows proves the goodness of the
method; in fact a graft rarely fails to grow. At the end of about fifteen
days the union of the root and the graft is complete: in the following
spring the plants are beautiful and vigorous. They generally flower
the first spring or at the latest in the second; it is then that they
are taken up and carried to be sold in the market in the way I have
described. The plant which has but one stalk and one flower has more
value in the eyes of the cultivator at Shanghae than a stronger one;
it is sold more easily, produces a very large flower, and presents no
difficulty neither for lifting nor for transportation. Thanks to this
circumstance I could always procure strong plants more advantageously
than small ones.

In the gardens of the mandarins can often be met Peonies of a
considerable size. Near Shanghae there is one which annually produces
3 to 400 flowers. The proprietor takes as much care of it as could the
most enthusiastic amateur of his tulips. During its flowering, it was
protected from the burning rays of the sun by a tent of canvass; in
front was a seat where the visitor enjoyed in full the sight of these
magnificent flowers. Every day, for several hours, the old man installed
himself there, and while pipes and bowls of tea succeeded each other
he looked lovingly upon his favorite “Moutan wha.” It was certainly a
noble plant, well worthy of the admiration of the old amateur, to whom I
wish the pleasure of sitting a long time yet under his tent, to enjoy so
beautiful a sight.

_Translated from the Flore des Serres._




CHINESE PRIMROSE.


Winter flowering plants are not too plentiful, at least such as will
bloom in the cool temperature of a greenhouse; we have many fine winter
flowering exotics, but they either require a hothouse temperature to
bloom freely, or are more difficult to manage during summer; we are
indebted to the Celestials for many of our most valuable winter flowers,
Azaleas, Camellias and among others that beautiful little gem the Chinese
primrose. They are all of hardy and robust habit, and are thus within
the reach of all, so far as cultivation is concerned, a recommendation
of much importance to those amateurs who cannot devote much time to
their collection. It has often occurred to me when visiting amateurs’
greenhouses, that they would derive much more pleasure from their labors
were they more select in the choice of their plants, choosing those
only of known hardy and free blooming qualities, instead of aiming at a
varied assortment, often expensive, and rarely satisfactory. I was more
deeply impressed with this fact during a visit to an enthusiastic amateur
last winter. On entering his greenhouse I was struck with the gay and
cheerful appearance it presented, and it was only when about leaving that
I observed the only plants in flower were a few Camellias, two or three
Cinnerarias, and a quantity of Primulas of various colors, but these were
so well arranged and set off with a profusion of healthy foliage, and the
Primroses showing such fine rounded trusses, that I am confident not one
person in ten would have noticed this simplicity of its production.

Although this plant is very hardy, I am aware that many amateurs are
not so successful with it as they would wish. This, I presume, arises
principally from its liability to decay if kept too damp at root, either
from using pots of a large size, or supplying water too freely. Four and
six inch pots will be found of ample size, not that a plant will not grow
in a pot three feet in diameter as well as it would in one inches. The
only difference would be that, in the former, the plant would probably
require water once a month and the latter daily.

To keep up a succession of flowers for four or five months, seed should
be put in at intervals of five or six weeks, from June to September,
soil of a sandy nature should be prepared, and the seeds very slightly
covered. The front shelf in the greenhouse will be a suitable place for
them while growing, they should be encouraged by transplanting into a
shallow box as soon as the first true leaf makes its appearance. If
thinly planted (not closer than three inches) they can remain until
sufficiently strong to be placed at once into flowering pots. These must
be well drained by placing a handful of broken material in each pot.
If attention is paid to this, there will be little fear of damp, if
ordinary care is given in watering. Two small stakes should be inserted
one each side of the plant, crossing other at top, no tying will be
necessary, this will prevent them from toppling over and breaking off
at the neck where they are very weak. A few of the latest sowing should
be set apart for seedling. A little care and attention should be given
to their selection, choosing those with large, well colored fringed
flowers. Sometimes they incline to be semi-double; these should have
the preference. About the middle of May they should be set out in the
sun, watered regularly, and if they receive an occasional application
of manure water the value of the seed will be enhanced. Under these
conditions an abundance of seed will be secured. It is not worth trouble
to preserve old plants; young ones flowering with much more vigour; any
particularly fine variety, however, may be turned out of the pot after
it has done blooming, some of the old soil removed and replaced in fresh
compost. The double varieties are much superior to the single ones. They
are increased by dividing the plant into cuttings. To propagate them
requires a cool dry situation, partially shaded, paying great attention
in watering, they must be kept rather dry until they begin to show
symptoms of growth; otherwise they are certain to decay. It is probably
on this account that they are not so extensively cultivated as they
deserve to be.

                                                                  DELTA.




ON THE DOUBLE CHINESE PRIMROSE.


To the Editor of the Florist, Sir: As you invite communications from
practical gardeners, I offer a few remarks on the above; as I think it
a much rarer plant than it ought to be—few plants excel it in simple
beauty, and by proper management it may be had in bloom every month in
the year. Being double, it can only be propagated by cuttings, which may
be taken off at any time, and readily struck in sand under a bell glass.
In about three weeks they are sufficiently rooted to pot into single
pots. I find them to thrive best in a compost of rough leaf mould and
sandy loam, in well drained pots. I repot them as often as they become
well rooted; and pinch off every flower stalk that appears till the
plant is six months old at least. I then let it flower on, and as each
flower truss shows symptoms of withering, pluck it out. By this course
it will continue to flower a whole year. They frequently die out from
exhaustion at this time, and the only way I find to prevent this, is
to divide the plant into off-sets, and so start with them as with new
plants. They always do well with me by this treatment. The double white
is the commonest and most easy to be procured; but I have observed in a
report of the Pennsylvania Society, that the purple exists also in your
neighborhood.

If you think the above worthy of insertion in the Florist, I should be
happy to send you some others when I have leisure.

                                                     Yours, &c., HORTUS.




NOTES ON ROSE CULTURE, BY A LOVER OF ROSES. (Continued.)


HYBRID PERPETUAL OR REMONTANT ROSES.—This division of the Rose was
introduced to us about 15 or 16 years ago and according to the opinions
of good judges it originated between the perpetual Rose Du Roi and the
Bourbon Rose; they have been till very recently nearly all of a crimson
or dark red color. Florists and Rose-growers generally esteem these
the finest of all Roses, to which I would coincide, provided, they
were constant monthly bloomers, which they are not, giving only two
or perhaps faintly a third bloom with a meagre flower in the autumnal
months. They richly deserve special attention for their fine bold
flowers, rich foliage, and luxuriant shoots when on their own roots; or
if budded they make very admired standard Rose trees. But oh! what nicety
of eye, how critical the judgment to detect the difference of one half of
them. For my own pleasure and gratification I would not give a groschen
for ¾ths of them; but we are so led off our guard by “have you got so and
so,” we blush to own up, and buy nearly all, good, bad, and indifferent;
but pray who would grow Doctor Marx, Dr. Margolin, Madam Laffay, and
nearly 50 others; all red, rosy red, dark red, light crimson, and such
transpositions, meaning nearly the same in color and character? So be it.
I will not detail before your thousands of readers such equivocal terms,
but give off hand and full in my eye, a score that will please the most
fastidious.

Auguste Mie, clear waxy rose, cupped petals.

Baronne Hallez, dark purple crimson, fine form.

Baronne Prevost, rose color, very large.

Caroline de Sansal, large, rosy blush, pink centre, of remarkably strong
growth.

Duchesse de Montpensier, pale satiny rose, very fragrant.

Giant of the Battle, nearly bright scarlet. Is this not the rose of the
group? Everyone of your readers that wishes a rose bush that is perfectly
hardy, bright in color, and constant in bloom may chose this subject.

Julie de Krudner, a new rose, nearly white, very double, and agreeably
fragrant.

La Reine. I hesitate about this though a most superb flower; it has a
paucity of bloom not altogether to my fancy; the color too is undecided
being a rosy lilac, but extremely large and luxuriant in growth.

Lion des Combats, reddish crimson, shaded with scarlet, large, full, and
fragrant.

Louise Le Clerc, delicate blush, perfect form, very profuse and fragrant.

Madam Laffay, purplish lilac, inclining to crimson, very full regular
flower, plant of strong growth.

Madam Rives, quite a new variety, of a pale flesh or silvery blush color,
of great substance, very distinct and perfectly formed.

Marquis Boccella, pale blush, dwarf habit, a constant bloomer, very
distinct.

Pius 9th, crimson purple, very large, full and perfect, a profuse bloomer
of strong growth.

Patenotte, pale rose, very exquisite form, fragrant and profuse, quite a
new variety.

Queen Victoria, (Paul’s) blush white, shaded with pink or peach blossom
color, large, very full, and distinct from any other variety, quite new,
very desirable.

Robin Hood, bright carmine, beautifully globular, and a rampant grower.

William Griffith, satiny rose, distinct color, a large bold petaled
flower, quite new, and will rank amongst the best.

William Jesse, a favorite variety of a rosy crimson color, edged with
lilac, very large, full, and constant.

Yolande d’Arragon, pale rose, producing its flowers in clusters the whole
season, a strong grower. Sydonie, a newer variety, is very like this, and
I am doubtful if it is any improvement upon it, unless to a very critical
observer.

I have not seen a clear good white as yet in this group. Florists
and catalogues tell us of Blanche Vibert—white it is, but a sickly
looking flower and plant, at the best. Blanche Portemer has nothing
more attractive about it. A good white such as the old Madam Hardy is
much wanted, it would be a treasure. There are over 100 of these Hybrid
Perpetual varieties cultivated, one half of them are nearly facsimiles of
each other. They all require more stimulation in their culture than any
other roses; if a strong luxuriant growth is not produced a very meagre
show will follow; dark rich green foliage and strong shoots will produce
a corresponding bloom—but yellow foliage and weak growth produces similar
sickly blooms, deficient in color, size, and fragrance. Also, observe
that taking off one half of the buds in May and June, is beneficial to
a continuance of bloom during the season; in dry weather they should be
liberally supplied with rich water or soap suds, or if the ground has
been abundantly manured, water of any description will suit; observing
that one copious supply once a week is better than a small portion every
day.

NOISETTE ROSES are those clustering sorts that bloom from early in the
season till destroyed by frost; their flowers are generally small, though
there are now some of them nearly as large as any others, but the size
takes from their profusion. The growth of the family is of all grades,
from 1 foot to 20 feet in a season; unfortunately for us, however, the
finer kinds are rather tender, being nearly or entirely killed in our
severe winters. Those tender kinds of greatest splendor are Lamarque,
Cloth of Gold, Solfatare, La Victorieuse. These are hybridised with
the Tea Rose, making them more tender; but for milder climates than
Philadelphia the splendor of them equals any description. A friend writes
me from Texas, that Cloth of Gold reaches the 3d story, and is in bloom
9 months of the year, and its odor equal to the magnolia. In pruning
Noisette Roses, thin out the old wood, and shorten the wood of the
previous season. The young wood should always be allowed to have its full
growth, as it is most frequently terminated with a cluster of flowers;
the sorts without encroaching upon their beauties might be curtailed to
one full dozen, which would comprise as follows:

Aimie Vibert, pure white, very compact, a dwarf grower.

Cloth of Gold, a very luxuriant grower, requiring dry rich soil; flowers
quite large, frequently 5 inches in diameter, opening a bright lemon
yellow, and fading to a pale straw color; should be protected by covering
in winter.

Desprez or Jaune Desprez, flowers buff color shaded with pink, in profuse
clusters, very fragrant, plant vigorous.

Fellenberg, color pink, red, or crimson as the season may be; a constant
bloomer—does very well for a piazza or pillar, quite hardy.

Lafayette, this old fine pink rose must not be neglected; there are few
or none to equal it in color and profusion; a moderate grower, flowers
prettily cupped and quite profuse.

Odorata, pure white, very sweet, an abundant bloomer and perfectly hardy;
stood the winter of ’51, without any protection; of moderate growth.

Ophirie, color orange, orange and pink, pale yellow or bright yellow, all
according to the weather and season; blooms abundantly, especially in the
autumnal months, flowers very double, plant hardy and growing freely;
quite distinct, foliage of a pleasing lively green.

Philippart, dark pink, must be well established before its character is
fully ascertained; blooms in large clusters; exceedingly hardy and of
strong growth.

Pourpre de Tyre, not easily to decide whether this variety is a Bourbon
or Noisette; but florists place it where I now do. The flowers of medium
size, dark red or crimson color; plant of moderate growth.

Triomphe de la Duchere, one of the very best Noisette roses, flowers
abundant, large, full, of a rosy pink color and fragrant; plant strong,
but not rampant.

Vittelina, pure white, fine form, buds shaded with pink, very double,
medium size, growth moderate, very desirable.

Lamarque, flowers very large, white with a sulphur yellow centre, plant
of strong growth, requires a dry sheltered situation with a rich soil,
and to be protected during the severe weather about Philadelphia.

I have omitted many others nearly equal to the above, such as Solfatare,
Du Luxemberg, Phaloe, Boulogne, _Augusta_, &c. Of the latter I may say
that I have not yet conversed with a judge or no judge of roses, in
this vicinity, who pronounces it equal or nearly equal to the published
description of it. I paid a V. for my plant, and consider it fully paid.
If I was now to make out a list to send to my Florist, I would say Cloth
of Gold, Ophirie, Augusta, &c.

[_To be continued._]




THE STRAWBERRY CONTROVERSY.


The communication of Mr. Meehan to the Pennsylvania Horticultural
Society, seems to have excited the opposition of all those persons, and
we believe they are the majority, who have settled the question to their
own satisfaction, that the Strawberry is either pistillate or staminate,
and unchangeably so. Mr. Meehan has produced his plants (of Hovey’s
Seedling), with staminate flowers. The Strawberry cultivators pronounce
them (in the teeth of Mr. M’s assertion that they are runners from
pistillate plants,) to be not Hovey’s, but another variety. Some others
talk of the absurdity of plants being fruitful without fertilization,
which, whether absurd or not, Mr. M. does not claim for his plants; we
have seen nothing yet on that side in the way of argument, it is all
assertion;—The Cinn. Hort. Society, formally pronounced it impossible,
and with them there is no appeal from their “ipse dixit.”

In the last number of the Farm. Journal, we have a letter, which we
suppose is from the eminent botanist of that region, which we copy, as
suggesting many reasons why Mr. Meehan may be right.

   The statement of MR. MEEHAN, in the April number of the Farm
   Journal, alleging that he has observed the sexual characters
   of the Strawberry flowers to be variously modified by
   culture, or different methods of treatment—has elicited some
   strong asseverations of _opinion_, in contradiction to that
   allegation of _fact_. One writer unhesitatingly declares the
   alleged change to be “_utterly impossible_:” and I understand
   that in the Queen City of the West, they have had a _public
   gathering_, to deliberate on the subject, which resulted in a
   _Pronunciamento_ adverse to MR. MEEHAN’S statement,—his facts
   and observations being _rejected_ by a clear majority of the
   voters present! The matter being thus _settled_, by preamble
   and resolution after the manner of political difficulties at a
   war-meeting, it may seem to be out of order, now, to offer any
   remarks on the controverted topic. Nevertheless, as this is
   reputed to be a Free Country, I should like to be indulged with
   the privilege of submitting a few suggestions,—if not in arrest
   of judgement, at least as a plea in mitigation of the sentence,
   against my friend MEEHAN. It is the remark of a vigorous and
   sagacious modern writer, that “no scientific question was ever
   yet settled dogmatically, nor ever will;” and I think the same
   may be especially predicated of questions of fact, in Natural
   History. I may here observe, that I was favored with the
   opportunity of examining one of MR. MEEHAN’S specimens,—in
   which there were certainly two scapes from the same root—one
   bearing a cyme of _pistillate_ flowers (with minute rudiments
   of abortive stamens,) and the other a cyme of _perfect_, or
   hermaphrodite flowers: and whether the specimen was the progeny
   of a pistillate, a staminate, or a hermaphrodite plant, I
   should think the inference plausible, that the flowers on at
   least _one_ of these two cymes, must have been a modification,
   or altered product, of the parent plant. It is this kind of
   change, in the character of the flowers, which I understand
   MR. MEEHAN to announce, as having occurred in plants under
   his management. Now, in view of the countless modifications
   daily observable in the organs of plants—and especially in
   the _floral organs_—I can perceive no sufficient ground for
   declaring the changes, reported by MR. MEEHAN, to be “_utterly
   impossible_.” The modifications here referred to, are a very
   different thing from the alleged _transmutation of one kind to
   another_,—which is vulgarly supposed to take place in certain
   plants, just as the Alchemists formerly pretended was affected
   among the metals. They merely alter the texture, distort the
   forms, or affect the developements of organs; but do neither
   change nor annihilate those _essential characteristics_, by
   which the plant is rendered permanently distinct from every
   other genus and species. The floral organs of many plants are
   remarkably subject to modification, under the long-continued
   influences of soil, climate, and culture, or management.
   Some flowers are rendered _double_, as it is termed, by the
   expansion of stamens into petals; others become imperfect, and
   even neutral, by the abortion or blighting of the stamens, or
   pistils, or both. The _Strawberry_ appears to be very liable
   to this kind of blight; and hence the much talked of sorts,
   among cultivators, of _pistillates_, and _staminates_,—though
   in all the pistillate flowers, which I have examined, there
   were _vestiges_ more or less obvious, of abortive _stamens_,
   on the rim of the calyx. It also varies much, under culture,
   in some other features,—especially in the developement and
   character or quality of the _receptacle_, or what is commonly
   regarded as _fruit_: but no one, I believe, has yet seen a
   Strawberry plant transmuted into a _Cinquefoil_, though so
   nearly allied in habit. The organs of plants may be greatly
   disguised by the influences above mentioned; but still the
   essential distinguishing traits are preserved,—and there
   seems to be no insuperable obstacle to prevent a plant, with
   modified or abortive organs, from reverting, under a change
   of circumstances, to its original condition, and resuming
   its pristine form and character. The normal, or what may be
   called the _constitutional_ character of the Strawberry-flower,
   is to be _perfect_—_i. e._ furnished with both stamens and
   pistils (possibly such may be the true normal structure
   of _all_ flowers); and although many other plants, as the
   Strawberry, are found with _imperfect_, and even _neutral_
   flowers,—every Naturalist and careful observer knows, that
   there is often an obvious effort and tendency, in such flowers,
   to a more complete development: _i. e._ to become _perfect_
   and _regular_. We occasionally see _diandrous_ flowers become
   _didynamous_,—and _didynamous_ plants developing _regular
   petandrous_ flowers; and it is not at all unusual to find the
   _staminate tassel_ of the cultivated Maize (_Zea Mays, L._ a
   _monoicous_ plant,) bearing _fertile flowers_, and exhibiting
   a very successful attempt at the production of an _Ear_—or
   _cluster of Ears_—of _Indian corn_. These instances, I trust
   (for it is needless to multiply them,) may suffice to show that
   there is nothing irrational, nor incredible, in MR. MEEHAN’S
   observations; and that it is rather strong phraseology,
   to declare such phenomena to be “_utterly impossible_.”
   The polemic writers on this Strawberry question, speak of
   the necessity of staminate plants among the pistillate, to
   produce, or perfect the _fruit_. No doubt, the pistils must be
   fertilized, in order to produce _seeds_ that will vegetate.
   But what do those gentlemen understand, by the “_fruit_?” Do
   they mean the little single-seeded _akenes_ or _nutlets_, which
   are sprinkled over the enlarged pulpy receptacle,—or do they
   refer to the _receptacle itself_, which in popular parlance
   is intended by the term “_fruit_?” If they have reference to
   the _real fruit_—the _nutlets_ which contain the seed,—there
   is probably no question (as already intimated) about the
   necessity of staminate influence to produce perfect fruit. But
   I have a suspicion, that by the term “_fruit_,” they mean the
   delicious _receptacle_ which bears the fruit, and if they mean
   to allege that the pistils must be fertilized by the stamens,
   _in order to produce that enlargement of the receptacle_
   which affords an _esculent substitute_ for fruit,—then I have
   only to say, it is a _question of fact_ which I have had no
   adequate opportunity to determine; and concerning which I,
   for one, should be happy to receive reliable information. To
   ascertain the point satisfactorily, would require very careful
   experiments and observations. Whether such have been made, I am
   not informed. I may remark, however, by way of _analogy_, that
   there are instances in which _pistils_, and even _receptacles_,
   are enlarged, where no staminate influence has been exerted.
   The conglomorate coalescent _pistils_ of the Osage Orange
   (_Maclura_,) for example, attain to their full natural size
   (although the _seeds_ are necessarily imperfect,) where no
   staminate plant is in the neighborhood; and, what affords a
   closer analogy, the including _receptacle_ of the _pistillate
   Fig_ is fully developed; when entirely free from any staminate
   influence. Whether the _receptacle_ of the _Strawberry_ ever
   enlarges, without the pistils being fertilized, (as already
   stated,) is more than I can tell; but I feel well assured, that
   any competent authority, who may furnish the information, will
   make an acceptable contribution to physiological Botany.

                                                              W. D.

   _West Chester, June 6, 1853._




THE STRAWBERRY QUESTION.


   MR. EDITOR:—Who among horticulturists has not heard of the
   “Strawberry Question”—has not wondered at the opposite opinions
   held by eminent cultivators, and perhaps like myself has
   been surprised that the spirit of inquiry has not been more
   generally diffused concerning a subject of so much importance.
   Is it because our instructors cannot come to a unanimous
   conclusion upon it, that we pupils in horticulture have been
   doubtful about expressing our opinions upon it, or have we
   never studied the subject for ourselves but left them in their
   wisdom to decide it for us? I was in this position waiting for
   their decision, but as it was not likely to be forthcoming, I
   resolved to study the subject for myself, have done so this
   season, and will give you my experience in connection with the
   “Strawberry Question.”

   The points of difference between a staminate and pistillate
   strawberry flower are so marked that a very casual observer
   cannot fail to notice them at once, for in staminate varieties
   the flowers are lax, the sepals of the calyx appear alternately
   with the petals of the corolla, the stamens occupy the most
   prominent place in the flower, rising half their length above
   the central pistils, are very much swelled at the base, and
   very large compared with the other parts of the flower, anthers
   broadly heart shaped, large, and producing abundance of pollen.
   Pistils, loose, long, and having a barren appearance, which is
   soon proved by their withering away, and leaving the stamens
   masters of the field. The embryo receptacle when it does
   exist at all is very much flattened, and in the most of cases
   cannot be said to exist at all, the pistils being inserted in
   the thickened cup of the calyx. All flowers that have this
   appearance in these varieties, very soon wither away and leave
   this impression on the mind of the observer, that they were
   surely staminate varieties. But as all staminate varieties do
   not thus wither away, but many of them produce fruit, it may be
   asked are the flowers all the same in appearance. It is here
   where the peculiarities in this class are met with, for there
   are few but what produce some fruit, and as real staminate
   flowers could not produce this fruit, it would readily be seen
   that staminate varieties produce two sorts of flowers; the
   one where the organs are unequally balanced which produce no
   fruit, the other where the flowers are perfect and are fruit
   bearing. The appearance of the flower that will produce fruit
   is markedly different from the other—by the shortness of the
   stamens, the conical shaped receptacle, the pistils stiff and
   thickly set thereon. The flower is altogether more compact, and
   is as perfect in its organs as any of the Alpine varieties. The
   following sorts have proved staminate with me.

   Cuthill’s Black Prince, Boston Pine, Kittley’s Goliath, Alice
   Maud, British Queen, Ross’s Phœnix, and Victoria.

   Among pistillate varieties, the flowers are cup shaped,
   compact, with the sepals of the calyx scarcely perceptible
   between the petals of the corolla. Stamens seldom visible,
   and when seen at all they are very minute, not longer than
   the pistils at the base of receptacle, never showing signs
   of having fertilizing powers, as the anthers never expand;
   the whole remains perfectly abortive. Pistils very numerous,
   uniform, stout, longer than in perfect flowers, and have not
   such a feathery appearance as in staminate sorts. Receptacle
   large, conical, always coming to perfection, and the instances
   where pistillate flowers do not produce berries are very rare,
   in fact scarcely ever to be met with; at least my sorts have
   proved so; and it is reasonable to conclude that this has been
   occasioned by the sorts growing together. The following sorts
   have proved pistillate with me.

   Bourbon Pine, Hudson, Swanson, Burr’s Pine, Hovey’s Seedling,
   Iowa, and Moyamensing.

   The varieties enumerated, I have growing together (both
   pistillate and staminate) under what might be called the
   ordinary mode of cultivation in one place; and in another
   completely isolated from them, I have a collection of the same
   sorts which have stood some years longer, and are almost worn
   out. But this difference of situation, culture, &c. don’t at
   all seem to have affected or in the least degree altered the
   organs of re-production in any variety; for to me it seems that
   the character of pistillate or staminate is as permanent and
   unchangeable as in any other deciduous plant.

   A writer in one of the periodicals of the day, supposes it
   possible that the receptacle of the strawberry might enlarge,
   or even come to perfection without staminate influence having
   at all been required. That the experiment of planting a
   pistillate strawberry in a situation where staminate influence
   could not reach it and that plant produce no berry, is the
   fact; as was proved by a cultivator in this neighborhood:
   but it is to be hoped that the coming season will be taken
   advantage of by many of your correspondents, for making
   experiments that will place this question in such a clear
   and forcible manner before the public, so that all may be
   convinced, and those interested in the culture of this fruit
   may take advantage of, and turn to good account the information
   received.

                                                                 F.

We hope that those of our friends who have made any observations, or
have anything to say on this interesting subject will be kind enough to
communicate them to us.—ED.




AMMONIA ON PLANTS.


The subject of the action of Ammonia on plants is exciting considerable
attention in England. We copy below from the Gardener’s Chronicle
accounts of experiments, the first of which is being tried at the
Horticultural Society’s Garden.

   M. Ville’s mode of giving Ammonia to plants, with a view to
   increase their bulk and vigour, is being tried in the large
   stove in which one of his apparatuses has been placed. It
   consists of two clear glass bottles with long necks, furnished
   with tight-fitting corks, in each of which is inserted a small
   bent glass tube. These two tubes are joined together by means
   of an India-rubber connection, or small hose, thus forming
   a communication between the two bottles. In the cork of one
   of the bottles is an escape tube (also of glass), which is
   connected (by means of a small India-rubber hose), with other
   small glass pipes that are laid all along and across the bed,
   and through which the ammonia is intended to pass, in order
   that it may be the better diffused among the plants. When the
   bottles are put to work, one is charged with chalk, on which
   is poured sulphuric acid, and the other with unslacked lime,
   over which is poured a solution of ammonia. The result of this
   experiment will, of course, be published in due time. Its
   conduct has been entrusted to Mr. Spriggs, the young man in
   charge of the house, who is to note down its effects daily, and
   report the same to the Vice-Secretary. In another column will
   be found some further account of furnishing plants with more
   ammonia than they can get under ordinary circumstances.

   By Mr. Deane, Vice President of the Pharmaceutical Society.
   Effects analogous to those produced by M. Ville (see last
   year’s volume, p. 755), with ammoniated air on the leaves
   of growing plants, have been observed by me, as the results
   of applying solutions of ammoniacal salts to the roots.
   My attention was first effectively turned to the subject
   about eight or ten years since, when an extensive grower of
   Pelargoniums, Fuchsias, and Roses, applied to me for some
   remedy for the sickly condition of his stock; which, if left
   unchecked, would insure a very severe loss to him. On examining
   the plants they were found to be in a starving condition,
   the roots having filled the pots and exhausted the soil;
   consequently, the leaves had lost their healthy green colour,
   and become very pale, with a strong tinge of yellow; the lower
   leaves were quite yellow, spotted, and falling off. The natural
   remedy was obviously fresh potting, but as the plants were
   already in pots best adapted to answer the purposes of the
   grower, some other remedy had to be devised. I therefore made
   a very weak solution of sulphate and carbonate of ammonia, and
   therewith watered the roots of the plants once a day, in the
   evening; and to insure any observed results as to the effect
   of the ammonia, certain rows of the plants on the stage of the
   greenhouse were selected for the experiment. In a few days the
   effects of the ammonia were most marked and satisfactory. The
   leaves began to put on a very remarkable appearance, the course
   of the veins, or spiral vessels, becoming perfectly green,
   the colour commencing at the basal portion of the midrib, and
   thence spreading through all the reticulations, until the
   tissues were perfectly restored to their normal and healthy
   condition; and, in fact, the plants thus treated looked more
   vigorous than they had ever done before, being much darker
   colour and firmer in texture. The contrast between these plants
   and those which had received no ammonia left no doubt about
   the efficiency of the application. I forget the effects upon
   the flowering of the Pelargoniums, but there was certainly no
   deficiency of flowers on the Fuchsias and Roses; they were,
   moreover, finer and better coloured than usual. On a subsequent
   occasion a gentleman’s gardener applied to me in a similar
   dilemma; he had a house full of fancy Pelargoniums preparing
   for a flower-show, at which he expected to take the first
   prize. Just as the trusses of flower buds were emerging, and
   there was every prospect of a good bloom, the lower leaves of
   the plants began to turn yellow and spotted, and then to fall
   off, leaving the plants bare, where the foliage was considered
   an essential point of beauty. I examined the roots and found
   them nearly filling the pots, it was therefore evident there
   was not sufficient nutriment left in the pots to meet the
   extra demand made by the large number of flower-buds; the
   latter were, consequently, deriving their nourishment from the
   leaves—the natural storehouse of the food of plants during
   the growing season—and of course exhausted the lower leaves
   first. They were treated precisely as in the former instance,
   and with the same results; the lower leaves became healthy,
   and the flower-buds progressed favourably to maturity, being
   of good form and colour. The success of these experiments
   became known to other gardeners in the neighbourhood, some of
   whom were equally successful, while others did not derive that
   satisfaction from the use of the ammoniacal solution, either
   from not understanding the principle of its application, or
   from a desire to accomplish more than they were capable of,
   when it frequently happened the plants became too vigorous to
   flower well. There is no doubt but that M. Ville is correct
   in stating that the flowering is arrested if the application
   of ammonia is made at a certain period of the development
   of the flower-buds. Few plants if grown too vigorously will
   flower well, if at all. A certain check in their growth is
   absolutely necessary, and the summer’s sun or winter’s cold,
   under ordinary circumstances, effects this perfectly in this
   climate—the former by perfecting and condensing the elaborated
   sap, and the latter by arresting vegetation altogether.
   Too much moisture and shade cause those parts intended for
   flower-buds to be developed as leaves. In the Aloe tribe when
   the flower stem is thrown up, it is at the expense of the
   outer leaves, the elaborated juices of which it appropriates,
   the roots at this time not being in action, because it is
   towards the close of a long period of dryness. If when the
   flower-stem is beginning to rise, the roots are watered, all
   further development of the stem is arrested, the leaves only
   being developed. The same thing takes place with many bulbs
   whose period of flowering is not the same as that for leafing.
   Many Cape bulbs follow this law; for example, the Hæmanthus,
   the flowering of which is at the expense of some one or more
   of the outer coats. If these plants are watered at the wrong
   period, or if they have had not that proper rest which Nature
   designed they should have under the influence of a roasting
   sun, such as their native country affords, no flowers will be
   produced, but in their stead a vigorous development of leaves.
   It would appear, therefore, that the arrest of development of
   the flowers and fruits of the plants treated with ammonia, is
   not so much the result of any specific property possessed by
   this substance, as by its bringing about artificially those
   conditions which may occur naturally, or be produced by other
   means. Also, that the application of ammonia to plants may be
   attended by results varying according to the conditions under
   which it is applied, and the object it is desired to obtain.
   The following is the formula for the solution alluded to in
   the previous note by Mr. Deane:—Sulphate of ammonia, 7000
   grains; sesquicarbonate ditto, 1000 grains; water, 80 fl. oz.
   Dissolve. Of this solution one fluid once to a gallon of water
   will make a solution, sufficiently strong for all ordinary
   purposes.—_Pharmaceutical Journal._




CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS.


DISBUDDING.—This operation does not appear to be sufficiently recognised
in its proper sense as distinguished from pruning and pinching. In
performing these latter operations we remove a portion of the growing
shoot, in the former case the young bud is removed as soon as it can be
rubbed off. These operations are therefore quite distinct, and their
distinction is of much importance. Most fruit cultivators are aware that
trees suffer materially by suddenly depriving them of a large portion of
foliage while in active growth, and expedients are resorted to in order
to render the operation less injurious. In spring when the buds burst,
attention should be directed to the quantity of young shoots desirable
either for fruit or uniformity of growth; these being secured all others
should immediately be _rubbed_ off. As growth proceeds luxuriant shoots
are _stopped_ or their points pinched off, removing more or less of the
shoot, according to the object to be attained. If the plant is very
luxuriant, more leaves may be removed and if _every_ shoot upon a tree is
operated on in this manner it amounts to a severe check on its growth. In
the case of young trees, or weakly ones, where a certain form is desired,
the young growing point should be bruised without removing any of the
elaborating foliage, securing density of habit without any perceptible
check of growth. Suppose a shoot that has grown 12 or 14 inches to be
pinched back one half of its length, the uppermost bud will burst again
and the others remain comparatively dormant; but allowing the same shoot
to have been checked in its longitudinal growth, by pinching or bruising
its extreme point, it will be found that all the lower buds will be
benefitted and several additional shoots produced. We have alluded to
this subject more particularly at present as we are aware of having
occasionally made use of the term _pinching_ when _disbudding_ would have
been the more appropriate expression.

STRAWBERRIES.—Preparations should now be in progress for securing plants
for early forcing next spring. Various methods are adopted to get strong
plants, such as filling small pots with rich soil and plunging them in
the strawberry patch, introducing a young plant on the pot, and removing
into larger ones when rooted. Others again prepare full sized pots at
once and place them in this manner, securing the young plant in both
cases with a small stone laid on the surface. When close attention is
paid in watering, these plans are good. An equally successful and less
troublesome method is to prepare a few square yards of ground in a
somewhat sheltered situation, manuring it well and digging deeply, and
filling it thickly with young plants. They should be partially shaded for
a few days, and duly watered. In the course of three or four weeks they
will lift with good balls of earth and are potted at once in fruiting
pots. Pistilo-staminate or hermaphrodite varieties are found to produce
better when forced early than pistillate sorts.

Root pruning of fruit trees is sometimes commendable, and the present is
the proper season for its more immediate beneficial effects. It is mostly
performed on young vigorous trees that show no disposition to fruit. By
cutting away some of the strongest roots at this time the supply of sap
will be lessened and the wood ripening process accelerated. No fruit
need be expected from badly ripened wood. In nine cases out of ten the
non-appearance of fruit on healthy trees arises from this cause. Mild
autumn weather induces growth to a late period and sudden frosts arrive
before the wood is sufficiently matured. This is more particularly
noticeable on soils inclined to be wet, and here again we perceive the
necessity of underground drains, in order to remove surplus water. It
is an exceedingly erroneous idea that drains are worse than useless in
localities where long droughts are of frequent occurrence. The truth is
that draining enhances humidity during hot weather, since it enables the
soil to exercise its absorbing properties to the fullest extent, there
being more air in the soil water is retained in its pores, constituting a
reservoir holding a lasting supply when other sources fail.

RENOVATING OLD TREES.—Most satisfactory results have been obtained from
old and apparently worn out trees by changing the soil about their
roots, or applying a top dressing of wood ashes, guano, salt and plaster
in equal quantities, allowing about one bushel of the mixture to each
tree. If nothing better is convenient, a heavy dressing of well made
barn manure forked in about the roots will have a decided effect. The
absorbing points of the roots extend a considerable distance from the
trunk, therefore, the principal part of the top dressing should embrace
a circumference at least equal to that of the branches. It might be
considered unnecessary to mention this _very_ apparent fact, were it not
usual to observe manure applied to the stem instead of the roots.

GRAPES UNDER GLASS will now be approaching maturity. Dryness both in
soil and atmosphere favors this process, still they must not be allowed
to suffer for want of moisture should the weather prove dry. The young
growth may be stopped more rigidly as the ripening process proceeds. This
will concentrate the sap and strengthen the buds for a future crop, if
pinched back too severely these buds may start into growth, which must be
guarded against.

OUT-DOOR GRAPES will require attention in thinning out lateral shoots
and stopping others especially those on bearing shoots. Thinning out the
berries is seldom practised on these, nor, indeed is it always necessary.
Occasionally, however, the berries are so thickly placed that room is not
afforded them to swell out and ripen properly. By thinning out a few of
the most central and smallest berries, the fruit will ripen earlier and
be much improved both in size and flavor.

                                                                   S. B.




AUGUST.

FLOWER GARDEN AND PLEASURE GROUND.


This is the month many prefer to plant their evergreens, and it is
perhaps as good a time as any. Take advantage of a “wet spell” for the
operation. Be particularly careful that as many roots as possible are
preserved. If this can be well attended to, _trees of any size_ can be
moved successfully. It becomes a question of power—of profit and loss.
If any amount of power can be applied, and expense is no object, the
largest trees will move as easily as small ones. In moving an evergreen
20 feet high, I commence to open my “trench” 10 feet from the base of
the trunk, go down about two feet, and continue to undermine and lay
bare the roots their full length, right up to the collar of the tree. I
care nothing for “ball of earth.” If I have a good supply of hands at
the job, I only care to keep them aside a little to prevent injury by
the operations of the workmen. If I have but few men, I roll the long
roots, as fast as they are exposed, in mats to keep them moist. For
mechanical means and adaptations to take out the tree and convey it to
its destination, an intelligent workman is never at a loss. Trees taken
up in this manner scarcely miss the change; and besides after they are
transplanted they require no staking, as they are capable of withstanding
the strongest wind through their long roots.

The broom should be well applied to lawns at this season of the year,
even more sedulously than in spring. Many species of weed become so
dwarfed by the summer’s drought, that they flower and fruit below the
reach of the scythe, and can only be kept down by the hard sweeping. I
have seen some lawns almost ruined by these weeds, especially by one of
the nettle tribe. (_Pilea pumila._)—Conclusion in next number.

      *       *       *       *       *

It is a pity that the rules adopted by Florists are so very rigid, that
unless a flower equals a certain standard in shape and markings it must
be rejected. Last week we had submitted to us by Mr. T. F. Croft, a
beautiful seedling Verbena, a lilac with a broad stripe of white down
each petal, quite distinct and very handsome, but the petals were too
narrow, leaving a large space between each one. This must condemn it as a
Florist’s flower, but to all who want a handsome and distinct variety it
will be desirable. He calls it his No. 3. It is in style of Iphigenie.

      *       *       *       *       *

The article on Tile draining in the last number should have been credited
to the Ohio Cultivator. We never intentionally copy articles without
credit. We wish that Dr. Warder of the Western Horticultural Review were
as conscientious.

      *       *       *       *       *

ERRATA.—In the report of the Maryland Horticultural Society, the Winter
Bon Chretien pears were shown by Mr. Fuss, not Mr. Feast as printed. The
premium for strawberries was for “the best 4 distinct varieties, 1 quart
each”.





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Vol. II. No. 7, July, 1853, by Various

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