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Title: The Scientific Tourist through Ireland
Author: Thomas Walford
Release Date: April 20, 2015 [EBook #48757]
Language: English
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[Illustration:
_5 6 4 3 2 1_
_C. Warren sculp._
_Antiquities in Ireland._]
THE
_Scientific
TOURIST_
THROUGH
IRELAND,
In which the Traveller is directed to the principal objects
_OF_
Antiquity, Art, Science & The Picturesque,
By
_An Irish Gentleman_,
Aided with the communications of Friends.
[Illustration:
_H. Warren sculp._ _Giants Causeway, County of Antrim._
]
LONDON,
PRINTED FOR JOHN BOOTH, DUKE-STREET, PORTLAND PLACE,
1818.
THE SCIENTIFIC
TOURIST
THROUGH
Ireland:
BY WHICH
THE TRAVELLER IS DIRECTED TO
THE PRINCIPAL OBJECTS
OF ANTIQUITY, ART, SCIENCE, AND
THE PICTURESQUE;
Arranged by Counties.
TO WHICH IS ADDED
AN INTRODUCTION TO THE STUDY OF THE ANTIQUITIES
OF IRELAND, &c.
BY AN IRISH GENTLEMAN,
AIDED BY
THE COMMUNICATIONS OF SEVERAL FRIENDS.
_Being a Sequel to "The Scientific Tourist through England,
Wales, and Scotland," by T. Walford, Esq._
London:
PRINTED FOR J. BOOTH, DUKE-STREET,
PORTLAND PLACE.
1818.
_This day is published in Two Volumes, Price_ 12_s._,
_Maps coloured_ 14_s._
(Uniformly printed with this Work)
THE SCIENTIFIC TOURIST
THROUGH
England, Wales, and Scotland:
BY T. WALFORD, ESQ. F.A.S. F.L.S.
CONTENTS.
_Page_
Introduction 1
Antiquities 8
Druidical Monuments 9
Cromlechs _ib._
Cairns 10
Ogham Inscriptions _ib._
Ancient Temples _ib._
Caves 11
Round Towers _ib._
Raths 14
Religious Antiquities 16
Churches, Cells, Hermitages,
and Crosses _ib._
Castles 18
Mineralogy 19
Moss Earth 20
Basaltes 21
Granite _ib._
Temperature 22
Travelling 23
Topographical Division
into Provinces, Baronies,
Parishes, and Acres 25
Ecclesiastical Division;
Dioceses, Parishes, and
Churches 27
Legal Division 28
Comparative Height of
Mountains 30
List of Round Towers, with
their Measurements 31
Glossary 34
Value of English and Irish
Currency 35
Description of Frontispiece
and Direction for
Plates 36
COUNTIES, viz.
Antrim.
Armagh.
Carlow.
Cavan.
Clare.
Cork.
Donnegal.
Down.
Dublin.
Eastmeath.
Fermanagh.
Galway.
Kerry.
Kildare.
Kilkenny.
King's County.
Leitrim.
Limerick.
Londonderry.
Longford.
Louth.
Mayo.
Meath; _see_ Eastmeath.
Monaghan.
Queen's County.
Roscommon.
Sligo.
Tipperary.
Tyrone.
Waterford.
Westmeath.
Wexford.
Wicklow.
Iters by various Persons.
Routes of Mail Coaches.
Index.
THIS HUMBLE ATTEMPT TO FACILITATE AND FAMILIARIZE
A JUST KNOWLEDGE OF THE VALUE AND BEAUTIES OF
THE KINGDOM OF IRELAND
HAVING BEEN MOST RESPECTFULLY PRESENTED,
IS NOW ON ITS PUBLICATION
WITH PERMISSION
INSCRIBED AND DEDICATED,
WITH
EVERY POSSIBLE SENSE OF THE OBLIGATION AND CONDESCENSION,
TO HIS IMPERIAL HIGHNESS
THE GRAND DUKE MICHAEL OF RUSSIA:
WHOSE VISIT TO THIS INTERESTING ISLAND
AND IMPORTANT ARM OF THE BRITISH EMPIRE
HAS CONFERRED AN HONOUR
WHICH CAN NEVER BE ERASED FROM THE RECOLLECTION OF
THE IRISH NATION.
August 31, 1818.
IRELAND.
INTRODUCTION.
This interesting country becoming every day more and more the subject
of inquiry and personal investigation, an HIBERNIAN TOURIST'S GUIDE
consequently forms a necessary adjunct to our original plan. In
prosecuting this design, our object is, by method and selection, to
enable even the casual six-weeks visitant to explore readily the most
important and curious specimens of nature and art, and that without
subjecting him to those travelling inconveniences which it has been too
much the fashion to complain of. Whilst travelling, at all times and
in all countries, the tourist must learn to suffer petty vexations,
privations, and delays; but a very amusing ramble may be executed in
Ireland, without more of these than the usual share. The MEANS OF
CONVEYANCE are now varied, extensive, rapid, and generally convenient;
not only from the capital in all directions, but also by means of
provincial coaches diverging from all the principal points; whilst good
roads and improving inns give facility and comfort to those who travel
with their own horses and carriages. In some places also, the INLAND
NAVIGATION affords a change of scenery and of general amusement to the
_independent_ traveller.
IRELAND, being only about 300 miles in length, and 200 in breadth,
containing 30,370 sq. m.[1], does not require a long period to traverse
its most important routes. Its CLIMATE is good, with a mean temperature
from 48 to 52; its face mostly level, but with extensive ranges of
mountainous tracts and rocky soil. It contains romantic LAKES, both
fresh and salt, viz. _Neagh_, _Erne_, _Killarney_, _Swilly_, _Foyle_,
_Corrib_, &c. &c.; also many majestic RIVERS, _Shannon_, _Liffy_,
_Boyne_, _Blackwater_, _Suir_, _Barrow_, _Lagan_, &c. Its MOUNTAINOUS
TRACTS are principally in Donnegal and Tyrone in the north, with part of
Antrim; also the Mourne Mountains in Down; the mountains of Wicklow;
in Kerry, and the s.w.; together with the extensive ranges to the
west of the Shannon. The BOGS are extensive, occupying many of the
mountains, indeed often undulating in hill and dale, particularly in
Donnegal; whilst both they and the dry heaths are covered with wild
myrtles, sedgy grass, rushes, _saggons_, or iris, orchis, wild rockets,
&c. Of its FORESTS few remain, being now sunk under the turf-bogs or
peat mosses; yet of minor BOTANY there is a great field for examination
in the Ericæ, numerous alpine plants, and wild flowers on the heaths,
bogs, and rocky fastnesses. Its MINERALOGY is very varied, from the
gold mines of Wicklow, down to the silver mines of the same county,
those of copper at Cronbane, with marble, coal, slate; whilst its
MINERAL SPRINGS, vitriolic, alkaline, saline, sulphureous, &c. offer
frequent opportunities of analysis to the man of science.
[1] Dr. Beaufort.
The importance of any plan which will tempt Englishmen of fortune,
especially the members of the legislative body, to visit Ireland,
cannot be more clearly expressed than in Mr. Wakefield's introduction
to his work on that country, where he observes, that a knowledge of
the natural situation, of the political institutions, and of the local
advantages even of a foreign nation, form an object of considerable
magnitude, and must to an inquiring and enlightened mind be a source of
no small gratification; but to become acquainted with these relations,
as they respect the great divisions of the empire of which we are
ourselves subjects, is of much greater importance.
It is impossible to tread the green sod of _Erin_, without a
considerable portion of antiquarian enthusiasm,--at least not to
traverse her wilds, without a portion of that spirit, even though we
may be tempted to deny that extreme antiquity of record drawn from the
earliest periods, and claimed by the _Old Irish_ in the indulgence of
their national vanity. But the true enthusiast requires not always
absolute historical proof to justify his feelings; and it is well
that he does not; for then many of his aërial pictures must fade from
existence; and the sober truth certainly is, as the elaborate Leland
has expressed himself, that it cannot be denied that no literary
monuments, to confirm tradition, have yet been discovered in Ireland
earlier than the introduction of Christianity into that country; and
that the evidence of any transactions previous to that period, rests
entirely on the credit of Christian writers, and their collections
from old poets, or their transcripts of records deemed to have been
made in times of paganism. It seems indeed, as he adds, unreasonable
to expect that any other domestic evidence of Irish antiquity should
subsist at this day; but from these the antiquary forms a regular
history of a long succession of kings and of romantic events from the
earlier ages of the world. Still do these details impart considerable
interest to the scenes where they are supposed to have been acted; and
from the poetical annals that furnish the catalogue of monarchs, we
have a lively picture of manners, most certainly of great antiquity,
however low we reduce the scale of chronology, and highly worthy of
attention, even though we smile at the tales connected with them,
with a most profuse intermixture of giants, necromancers, obscure
allegories, and extravagant fables. In those annals, we have an
animated picture of a brave people, driven from their native land in
search of new settlements, establishing themselves by their valour
in a fair and fertile island; the chieftains parcelling out lands
to their attendants, and the whole collection of adventurers, from
the moment of their peaceful establishment, devising means to give
stability to their acquisitions. As a bond of unity to the whole,
they elect a monarch; but preserve their own individual sovereignty
in their domains, forming a complete feudal system, and filling the
land with little courts where politeness and chivalry, attended by
poetry and romance, went hand in hand. Such is the sketch which
arises from Leland's masterly delineation; who adds, that in this
state of things a robust frame of body, a vehemence of passion, an
elevated imagination, were the characteristics of the people; whilst
noble instances of valour, generous effusions of benevolence, ardent
resentments, desperate and vindictive outrages, abound in their annals.
From hence too it is that scarcely a romantic dell or simple green
knoll exists without its traditionary tale; sometimes stained with
blood, but as often enlivened by love--for to verse and music they were
particularly addicted. Hence arose that peculiar turn of character by
which those who are possessed of any superior degree of knowledge, they
who operate on their fancies and passions by the liveliest strains of
poetry, have long been held in extraordinary veneration; and hence,
even at the present day, the ministers of their religion are accounted
more than human. The effects of those early events may indeed still be
traced by the modern tourist; and even the historian of cotemporary
transactions is obliged to coincide with the elegant Littleton when he
observes, that the songs of the bard had usually more power to incite
and inflame, than the music of the harp to soften or mitigate the
ferocity of the chief; so that even this recreation, which seems to
indicate something gentle and approaching to politeness in the temper
of the Irish, contributed to keep up that turbulent spirit, averse to
order and peace, which no prince or legislator that their country ever
produced, had sufficient skill to control. But still, from the remnants
of these ancient customs will the modern tourist derive considerable
advantages, and from none more than their proverbial hospitality, if he
himself has sense enough to keep it within bounds of propriety. Of this
hospitality much arises from the natural temper of the people; much
from the natural curiosity connected with the arrival of a stranger in
a district where intercourse is unfrequent; and some portion perhaps
derivable from ancient custom; for, as Leland observes, hospitality
was not only a principal virtue amongst these rude people, but was
even enjoined by law; and as neither lords nor tenants were bound to
each other, as the whole tribe might migrate to some more favourable
district, the ancient _Brehon_ laws expressly stipulate that no rath
shall break up suddenly, lest the traveller should be disappointed of
his expected reception. But neither the duties to be received by the
lord, nor the entertainment he was to expect from his inferiors, were
determined by his arbitrary will and pleasure. They were proportioned
to the benefits received from him--nay, even the lowest of the people
claimed reception and refreshment by an almost perfect right; and
so ineffectual is the flux of many centuries to efface the ancient
manners of a people, that at this day the wandering beggar enters the
house of a farmer or gentleman with as much ease and freedom as an
inmate. From this strict adherence to old customs, it arose that even
on the introduction of Christianity, many of the Pagan and Druidical
ceremonies of religion, interwoven with secular ordinances, were
preserved throughout the island. Indeed, as the author already quoted
very justly affirms, the first Christian missionaries seem to have
industriously avoided all unnecessary violence to the ancient manners
of their converts: favouring and protecting their poets; avoiding
all persecution towards the remains of the Druidical order; and even
whilst thundering the divine vengeance against the worshippers of the
sun, moon, stars, and wind, yet exercising indulgence towards many
remains of Pagan superstition. In consequence of this, the inquisitive
tourist will find many vestiges of those superstitions even in the most
enlightened parts of the kingdom, where their origin is unknown or
forgotten; and they are complied with in conformity to general custom,
or prompted by the association of early ideas and prejudices. Of these
the most conspicuous are the fires still lighted up at particular
times, remnants of the worship of Baal or Apollo; the collecting oaken
sprigs in May, a Druidical rite; and many others, which cannot fail to
interest the observer.
As the inquisitive traveller will doubtless make statistical
observations in his progress through the country, the following
quotation from Mr. Wakefield's multifarious and very intelligent work
may form the basis of a series of reasoning highly deserving the
attention of the politician. Speaking of the county of Louth, vol.
2. p. 616, he says--"This county has two large towns, one of which,
Drogheda, is of considerable extent, but its inhabitants are remarkably
poor. To those who have compared this place with Belfast, where the
population is nearly the same, the difference must be very striking;
and nothing can more clearly evince the superior condition of the
Protestants over that of the Catholics, there being as many Protestants
in Belfast as there are Catholics in Drogheda. The humbler classes of
the Protestants are ashamed to be seen dirty, or with bad clothes; but,
being so much outnumbered, they in consequence find very little society
amongst persons of their own faith, and have a stronger propensity
to emigrate."--This pictorial contrast of two towns is, in fact,
but a picture of the whole island. Let the tourist then examine the
Protestant and Catholic districts with impartiality--let him closely
examine from what it is that the Catholics require to be _emancipated_!
We do not anticipate--we are of no party; but the inquiry is of
consequence and deserves attention, especially at a moment when the
question of Emancipation is likely again to become a subject of
parliamentary and public discussion.
To do justice to that subject requires facts, and not mere abstract
reasoning. It cannot be the wish of any liberal Protestant to retain
the Roman Catholics under undue subjection; but liberality has its
bounds; and though a misplaced philanthropy may render us careless
respecting our own individual rights, yet it must be remembered that it
cannot justify us in yielding up the rights and the security of others.
As far as _Catholic Emancipation_, as it is called, is consistent with
_Protestant Security_, so far it is not only right but just and prudent
to concede; but before _Protestant Ascendancy_ is given up, let us be
certain, from an accurate investigation of facts, that _Protestant
Security_ will remain inviolate. Let us examine the history of past
times; and also examine mankind at the present day, with a strict
reference to it. This cannot be done in a closet or editorial apartment
in the metropolis; he who would investigate surely, and therefore
safely, must visit the spot where, and the people by whom, these claims
are made.
Again, we say, that it is not our wish to anticipate; but facts may be
recorded. If the tourist ascertains that the Roman Catholic districts
of Ireland are in greater penury than those where Protestantism
predominates, he will not attribute that in the first instance to
Protestant ascendancy, until he has examined the facts before his eyes.
He will see that industry is the great agent in the one case; the want
of it, the great and immediate agent in the other. Here then is a point
for him from whence to start in his moral investigations; and he will
at once observe, that in the Protestant districts six days in each
week are dedicated to labour, and the sabbath dedicated to the offices
of religion; whilst in other districts half the week is passed in the
idleness or dissipation of holidays, and the sabbath neglected. It is
true that in the breasts of the Irish Catholics he will find a strong
sense of religion, agreeable to their modes of faith and ceremony;
but he will also find that those modes of faith and ceremony are
subversive of the spirit of industry, whose stream to be generally
useful must not be dammed up at particular points, and suffered
to run waste at others. But let not the writer of these sheets be
misunderstood. Though fully impressed with the truth and justice of the
foregoing observations, it is far from his wish to throw any obstacles
in the way of the Catholic Faith. That Faith is free and unshackled,
as far as regards God and man; if political restrictions still exist,
they exist upon an impression that to do them away must be injurious
to Protestantism. To adduce the reasons for that impression would be
beyond our limits, and beyond our plan; but until that impression is
proved to be groundless, unlimited concession must be withheld. The
true and liberal philanthropist will also inquire whether, under the
peculiar circumstances of their religion, the great body of the Irish
Catholics would absolutely be benefited by an accordance with the
claims set up. Until that be ascertained, he will pause; and though
he may deprecate any thing like coercion, he will still be careful to
avoid any thing like encouragement, until he is convinced that its
results will at least be harmless.
To form an accurate judgement on these points demands an Irish tour.
The conviction on his own mind which the editor has here hazarded,
without any wish to prejudge the case in the minds of others, is not
formed on slight grounds. An early acquaintance with that island, and
subsequent rambles over most parts of it, joined to actual observation
in many parts of Europe, and indeed in the four quarters of the globe,
have convinced him that wherever Protestantism exists, with some
very few exceptions, there are to be found cleanliness, comfort, and
industry:--the reverse of the picture, though he would be supported in
it by the unanimous assent of many continental travellers, he will not
attempt to draw. Let him who doubts, and who chooses to make the Irish
tour, examine these hints, and compare them with actual observation.
It is true wisdom to learn from experience and observation--it is
true candour to acknowledge error when facts judiciously examined
and liberally contrasted lead to truth; and the editor's wish will
be fully answered, if these expressed opinions, whether right or
wrong, shall prompt the minds of his readers to that judicious and
liberal examination. In either case the result must be beneficial to
the empire; and the notice here taken of the very interesting subject,
it is hoped, will neither be considered illiberal or misplaced. But
it is now time to enter into details of the more prominent objects of
curiosity to the tourist; and it must be acknowledged, with respect to
our sister island, that, in taking a general view of its
ANTIQUITIES,
we have not the same facility of correct chronological specification,
as in our general introduction to this work; for the antiquarian
disputes, still unsettled, claim different dates for many of the most
interesting objects. We may however premise, that the order in which
the island has been peopled and colonized is generally agreed upon to
commence with the CELTES, SCYTHI, and FIRBOLGS; then the PHŒNICIANS
and MILESIANS in the south; the ROMANS, perhaps in a small degree; the
SCOTS in the north; the DANES and OSTMEN; the ENGLISH invaders in the
time of Henry II., followed by the SCOTTISH and ENGLISH colonists of
James I., and during the civil wars.
It has even been supposed that the diversities of natural character,
at the present day, in some measure illustrate the generally
received chronological and topographical arrangement. Ledwich in his
introduction to _Grose's Antiquities_, considers the CELTES as the
primeval possessors of the country;--all under the system of Druidism,
living a sylvan life, and worshipping the Deity in oaken groves,
wherefore few memorials of them are left. In the north are to be
traced, from the earliest ages, the SCOTI; in the south, the FIRBOLGS,
then the MILESIANS, and also the PHŒNICIANS about two centuries
before Christ; there also, according to Ptolemy, were the MENAPII and
BRIGANTES; and the RHOBOGDII, DARNI, &c. in the north, of a later date
than the first SCOTI, or INDO-SCYTHI, agreeable to Vallancey's theory.
From these and other local circumstances connected with Ireland, there
are few antiquities of very ancient date, with the exception of rude
memorials, because nothing but wood was used in building until the 11th
or 12th century; for until then, stone was only employed in funeral
monuments, or _Cairns_, in _Cromlechs_, and sometimes in the _Barrows_,
_Raths_, and _Danish forts_; also in the _Round Towers_, if their
antiquity is so great as some writers suppose. Of the antiquities of
modern date, the greatest number consist of _Castles_, _Churches_, and
_Monasteries_, principally to be found within the limits of the ancient
English Pale. This is evident from what Sir John Davis asserts--"Yet,
which is strange to be related, they did never build any houses of
brick or stone, some few poor religious houses excepted, before the
reign of Henry II."
Of the earlier English antiquities, those consist of CATHEDRALS,
CHURCHES, and CASTLES; some few Saxon, (at Kilcullen, Co. Kildare, and
Disert, Co. Clare,) some Norman, but principally of later date.
DRUIDICAL MONUMENTS
are very numerous, particularly in some parts of the north. Dr.
Drummond, in the scientific notes to his interesting poem on the
Giant's Causeway, says that "numerous monuments of the Druidical
superstition are still to be seen in the County of Antrim." The
appearance of those agrees with the description in Mallet's _Northern
Antiquities_; and also with the quotation from Wormius, copied by
Ledwich,--"The structure of our altars is various; but generally a
tumulus is formed, on whose summit three great stones are erected, and
on them a fourth broader and more flat is laid, so that it exactly
appears like a rude huge table resting on three feet." We may add, in
respect to these
CROMLECHS,
That both in Ireland and in Scandinavia, their erection is vulgarly
ascribed to giants; an unerring mark, says Ledwich, of their Gothic
origin. Sir R. C. Hoare says that the construction of stone temples
and cromlechs has generally been attributed to the Druids, but without
any certainty of proof. He also hazards the conjecture, and with
great plausibility, that a temple like Stonehenge once existed on
the Curragh of Kildare (See Tour in Ireland, p. 274.) Coeval with
_Cromlechs_--perhaps--but absolutely so in the opinion of Ledwich, are
the
CAIRNS,
Rude heaps of stones, composed partly also of earth, forming immense
conical heaps, and evidently sepulchral. These are very numerous, and
are generally erected on the summits of hills; but, though some of them
may be Druidical, the greater part are of later date.
Sir R. C. Hoare considers the Irish Cairn or Carnedd to be of the same
origin as the Barrow or Tumulus in various parts of England.
Under the period now treated of we may also enumerate the sculptured
stones bearing
OGHAM INSCRIPTIONS,
which Vallancey describes as ancient Irish, or Indo-Scythian remains.
These are found in many parts of the island; one of the most curious of
which is at Tory-hill, Co. Kilkenny, inscribed to the God _Belus_ or
BAAL. They are very numerous in Co. Kerry. These and the ancient _Irish
Letters_ have given rise to more controversy than any other subject
connected with Hibernian antiquities. In Miss Plumptre's _Tour_, p.
327 et seq., the curious reader will find much information, with good
references to further analysis. Of the remains of the _Phœnician_ era,
we may perhaps specify the
ANCIENT TEMPLES,
one of which, the SHIP TEMPLE near Dundalk, is attributed by Vallancey
to that people, or else to the sea rovers, _Victi_, or _Picts_, who
paid divine honours to the form of a ship; but Governor Pownal supposed
it to be the work of the NANI, a northern or Scandinavian nation.
That the Phœnicians or Carthaginians must have visited Ireland, is
supported by Miss Plumptre upon the ground that amongst the relics
of antiquity in possession of the Dublin Society are several heads
of axes which were dug up in the south, corresponding exactly with
some that have been found in the plain of Cannæ and in Egypt, and
which are considered as Carthaginian. This, she adds, seems strongly
to corroborate the idea that the Carthaginians, the most adventurous
navigators of ancient days, actually traded to Ireland.
Cotemporary with these are many of the
CAVES,
evidently artificial, which served as habitations to the rude
colonists. Many of these remain, in the north, on the sides of hills
almost inaccessible, and are vulgarly called "Picts Caves" at the
present day. Neat in chronological order to those are the
ROUND TOWERS,
Conical erections, tall and slender, so frequently found adjoining to,
or nearly in contact with, the ancient churches. Those antiquaries
who give them a very recent date, suppose them to be the work of
native builders, whilst the Castles and Churches are by English or
French architects: but Vallancey claims for them a very ancient date,
asserting that they were erected by the Phœnicians to contain the
sacred fire, and copied from the pyramidal stones so frequent with
that people and with the Druids. Ledwich, however, merely considers
them as common appendages to the wooden churches; some at a distance
of 8 feet, others 124; and one, at _St. Kevins_, actually joined to
it. This latter writer assumes that they are _Ostmanic_, or Danish
productions, "and from uninterrupted tradition, probably to have been
belfries from the beginning." Of these about sixty-six remain. Except
as to rotundity, every architect seems to have followed his own fancy
both in height and in internal arrangement: the one at Antrim is 80
feet high, tapers about 18 feet from the top in form of a sugar-loaf,
where it is about 36 feet in girth, and 52 near the base; some have
their door 24 feet from the ground, but in general not more than 10 or
12. The Tower at Drumiskin is supposed to have been the highest in the
island, upwards of 130 feet, and nearly equalled by those at Kildare
and Kilkenny. That at Kilmacduagh in Galway is 110 feet, with the door
24 feet from the ground.
Much controversy has existed respecting the origin of these round
edifices. The first writer who mentions them is _Giraldus Cambrensis_,
who certainly calls them "Ecclesiastical Towers;" and some writers go
so far as to assert, from the grammatical construction of the sentence
in which he describes them, that he saw the builders in the very act
of raising them, in 1185. This at least is certain, that they were so
early in existence; but Lynch, who wrote in 1662, asserts that they
were erected by the Danes, as early as 838; in which he is followed by
Peter Walsh, also by Molyneux in 1727, who ascribes them to the Ostmen
or Danes, but supposes them to be of later date than the Raths and
other earthen works, and erected solely as Bell Towers for calling the
people of large districts to join in religious ordinances. But there
are some circumstances which militate against that opinion, whilst
others seem to confirm it. At the Giant's Ring in the County of Down,
we have an instance of a Round Tower on a spot manifestly of Druidical
superstition, without any Church in its vicinity; as if the churches
were built near to the Towers, instead of these being built near to the
churches, the early preachers of Christianity choosing to erect their
new religious edifices on spots already consecrated in the eyes of the
people. It must be acknowledged, however, that when the Round Tower at
Downpatrick was pulled down in 1790, whilst repairing the cathedral,
its foundation being cleared away, another foundation was discovered
under it, and running directly across the site of the tower, which
appeared to be a continuation of the church wall, and which, at some
period prior to the building of that tower, seemed to have extended
considerably beyond it. Further, that these towers, sometimes at least,
had a connexion with Christianity, is evident from the fact of some of
them being built upon vaults belonging to the churches; and on more
than one, in the north of Ireland, may be traced the figure of the
cross. One instance of this may be seen on the keystone of the door
of the tower at Donoghmore. On the other hand, in regard to the tower
at Drumbo, it is evident that at some former time, very strong fires
have been burned within that building, and the inside surface, towards
the bottom, has the appearance of vitrification. Indeed it is a fact
recorded in the _Down Survey_, p. 290, that the ground floors of many
towers have been opened, where the ashes of burnt wood have been found,
supposed by some antiquaries to be the remains of the perpetual fire
once kept burning there in honour of the Sun. It is also recorded by
Pennant, in his _View of Hindostan_, that the Pagodas, in the Circars,
resembled the Round Towers, with tops pointed or truncated, and
ornamented with a round ball to represent the Sun as an emblem of the
deity of that temple. The idea of their being Christian penitentiaries
seems at first sight to be whimsical; yet it is said that there are
manuscripts in existence which prove it with respect to some of them.
One of these manuscripts records the building of a tower at Kinath, in
Cork County, in the year 1015; whilst the tower at Ardmore in Waterford
has evidently been used as a belfry.
An idea is started in the _Kilkenny Survey_, p. 632, that they are
connected with pilgrimages; a pilgrimage being called _Turrish_ in
Irish, as if in allusion to their Latin appellation of _Turris_.
Of other facts connected with them, it may be recorded that at Tulloher
in Kilkenny, where the tower is only 8 feet from the church, yet that
edifice is of limestone, whilst the tower itself is of siliceous
breccia.
That some of them are comparatively of recent erection is evident from
the fact that at Roscrea in Tipperary, the tower has a pointed or
Gothic arch, 38 feet from the ground. Now the 12th century is generally
allowed to be the era of the introduction of the Gothic architecture
into this country; and from this a curious question arises. It is
moreover a curious fact, not hitherto noticed by any writer upon this
subject, that the isolated tower, probably of Moorish origin, which
stands on the neutral ground at Gibraltar, bears a very striking
resemblance, in all points, to the Irish round towers in general.
This tower has been seen and examined by the editor, who was much
struck by the similarity at the time, and has since endeavoured to
procure all possible information upon the subject. It is well known
that Gibraltar was not inhabited by the Phœnicians, Carthaginians, nor
Romans, nor even by the Visigoths, but was first taken possession of
by the Saracens in 711; fourteen years after which the Moorish castle
was built, followed by other edifices, with the pointed Saracenic
arch, until the rock returned to the dominion of Spain in 1462. It
may be added here, that the Irish towers have a strong resemblance to
the Oriental minarets, especially in their supposed use as places
for calling the people to worship. Where there are so many and so
discordant opinions it is difficult to decide; but the tourist may
avail himself of these hints in his further researches.
Of the precise antiquity of the
RATHS,
or Danish Mounts, few doubts exist. These are circular mounts of earth,
from 40 to 150 feet in diameter at the base, and conically diminishing
towards the top. Common tradition gives them to the DANES; and no
doubt a great proportion of them are not older than the occupation of
the northern and eastern coasts by the Ostmen. But some must be of
the earliest Scandinavian date; particularly the _Giant's Ring_ near
Belfast, and the _Rough Fort_ near Templepatrick, which have Druidical
remains incorporated with them, and in their very centre. Besides,
though the term _Danish_ is universally applied to these works, yet
some of them are also undoubtedly _Norwegian_, particularly one near
Fore in Westmeath, called the "Fort of Turgesius," positively described
by _Giraldus_ as the work of a Norwegian chieftain, and raised for a
castle, using the word "Castella," and not _Castrum_.
Before quitting the subject of the _Raths_, it may be useful to notice
Ledwich's observations on that subject. Quoting Giraldus, The Irish,
says he, had no castles, their woods served them for camps, and their
marshes for ditches. It was Turgesius and his Ostmen who formed that
infinite number of earthen forts and castles made of lime and stone.
It is then to those northern invaders that Giraldus ascribes the high
round earthen forts with deep ditches and often triple entrenchments.
This is certainly in opposition to Mr. Harris, who argues for their
Celtic origin, reasoning principally on the name of _rath_ being of
Celtic derivation. It has also been supposed that they may have been
introduced by the Belgic colonists, as the name has some appearance of
Teutonic origin. These raths are generally upon elevated spots, and of
various dimensions, from 10 or 15 yards diameter, to an extent of 18 or
20 acres. Some of them have subterraneous chambers, with sally-ports;
some are round, others square; the former supposed by Spencer to be
Danish, the latter Saxon. They are sometimes called _Motes_, a Gothic
word signifying the place of meeting; and indeed it has been supposed
that many of them were intended rather for civil legislation, or
judicial purposes, than as works of military defence. These Raths,
together with the _Duns_, or inclosures upon insulated rocks, and
the _Daingeans_, or inclosures formed by deep ditches with ramparts
and pallisadoes, are supposed by Ledwich to have been the only forts
amongst the Irish antecedent to the invasion by the Norman barons in
the reign of Henry II. In many parts of the island, the Irish chiefs
had an inveterate dislike to fixed fortifications--one cogent reason
why scarcely any castles exist except of English erection; a fact well
illustrated by an anecdote of the famous De Courcy, who constructed
two castles in _Mac Mahon's_ country, a step which awed the latter
into complaisance; and he having sworn fidelity, De Courcy bestowed on
him the two castles with their appendant lands. But within a month Mac
Mahon demolished both; and, on being asked his reason for doing so,
replied that "he did not promise to hold stones but land; and that it
was contrary to his nature to live within cold walls whilst the woods
were so nigh."
It has often occurred to the writer of these sheets, from actual
observation of some hundreds of these _mounds_, that the term "Rath,"
as generally applied, is often erroneous. Wolff in his Dictionary
positively states the word "Raad" in the Danish language to signify
a council; of course, by a common figure of rhetoric, putting the
thing for the place, or the place for the thing, this term is properly
applied to the larger eminences, some of which are as extensive as old
Sarum, and therefore well adapted for assemblies of the people. But
Lloyd, in his Dictionary of the Irish-English Language, considers the
word even more figuratively, saying that it means a village, a prince's
seat, also an artificial mount, or barrow. Now the fact is, that many
of the smaller mounts, where placed singly, may be, and some of them by
opening have been proved to be, _Tumuli_, or sepulchral monuments; but
others, placed in lines of communication for miles together, for they
are never found in groups as upon Salisbury plain, were evidently for
exploratory purposes or chains of military posts, a most remarkable
instance of which may be seen on the road from Belfast towards
Templepatrick, where there is a line of them within sight of each other
for several miles, leading through the valley of communication from
Belfast Lough towards Lough Neagh, between the Cave Hill and Carnmoney
mountain, and connected with the very curious mount at the Rough Fort,
which looks down upon a bog called King's Moss at the foot of the
Carrantoll mountains, in the centre of which is a most extensive Rath,
about 10 yards high, and at least 60 in diameter, with a raised bank
round its summit faced with rough stones towards the area. Part of
one side having been broken into, it seemed as if the whole had been
raised upon rough stone-work, the materials for which must have been
brought from a considerable distance. These, both large and small, are
sometimes called moats; and some, of the largest size, are designated
by the appellation of Dun or Doon.
We now come to monuments of more recent date, of which the
RELIGIOUS ANTIQUITIES
deserve the first consideration; and of these some
CHURCHES may perhaps be as old as the 11th or 12th century, and not
earlier; for although many were built immediately after the conversion
by St. Patrick, about five centuries after CHRIST, yet all these were
simply of wood or wattled, and therefore long extinct. Along with
these we may class the
CELLS and HERMITAGES, rude and composed of upright stones with an
impost, where saints led an eremitic life, perhaps sometimes adapting
the older Druidical cromlechs to their more modern purposes, just in
the same manner as several of the
CROSSES are supposed by Ledwich to have been carved upon the ancient
upright pyramidal stones of pagan idolaters. These Crosses have
neither that light and taper form nor elegant Gothic workmanship which
distinguish our ancient specimens in England; but though simple in
design they are yet rich in sculpture. Sir R. C. Hoare thinks them
coeval with the Round Towers, about the 9th or 10th century.
This part of the subject must not be dismissed without some notice
of the stone-roofed Chapels of the ancient Irish, which Ledwich
considers as exhibiting, along with other remains, some ideas of the
Egyptian and Grecian styles of architecture; in which opinion he is
more than sanctioned both by O'Halloran and Archdall, who claim an
early knowledge of architecture for the aboriginal Irish. Mr. Ledwich,
however considers these as the first specimens of stone and mortar ever
seen in the island; as raised by the Ostmen, and intended solely for
the preservation of reliques. Several of these present themselves to
the tourist as objects of curiosity. One may be seen near the cathedral
of Killaloe, supposed to have been the depository of the reliques of
St. Flannan. The tourist in Ireland cannot fail to be struck with
the number of monastic remains, of which the churches or chapels are
mostly standing, though unroofed and in ruins. These he will always
find surrounded by crowded cemeteries; and Sir R. C. Hoare observes
that he was informed the great frequency of the fact proceeds from the
consolidation of parishes at a period when the Catholic predominated
over the Protestant religion. He adds, in direct opposition to modern
assertions, that the latter now begins to gain ground, as application
has been made for the restoration of many of those dilapidated
churches, and some have already been rebuilt. Of these ancient
specimens, some few are of Saxon architecture, particularly Kilsheel
church in Tipperary, having a Saxon doorway, once rich in sculpture,
but now defaced. In general the Church ruins consist of little more
than the shell of a small edifice with two gable ends and scarcely
any windows, always enveloped in ivy: in some places they appear at
distances of every 4 or 5 miles. But Sir R. C. Hoare remarks, that
although monastic architecture may be inferior to that of the sister
kingdoms, yet Ireland, in her stone-roofed Chapels, Round Towers, and
rich Crosses, may justly boast of singularities unknown and unpossessed
by either of them.
The _Church Monuments_ are by no means so numerous or so ancient as to
afford the antiquary, the genealogist, or the heraldic tourist, that
amusement and instruction so frequent in the ecclesiastical edifices
of England. Few antique monuments remain, and the authenticity of the
so much boasted one of Strongbow, in Christ-church in the metropolis,
is very doubtful. Sir R. C. Hoare has stated, p. 13, 14, in a note,
the evidence for and against it. There we have the authority of an
inscription of the restored monument, by Sir H. Sydney in 1570; to
which Sir Richard adds a positive assertion of his being buried there,
from Giraldus, but setting against it the "Hic jacet" of a tomb in
Gloucester cathedral, recorded by Leland. Sir Richard, himself, doubts
the fact of Strongbow having been buried in Dublin, as we do also, but
not precisely for the same reason. Sir Richard's doubt springs from
the circumstance of the knight on the Christ-church monument bearing a
shield argent, on a chief azure three cross crosslets fitchée; whilst
the family coat of the _De Clares_, Earls of Pembroke, were Or, 3
chevrons gules. But the fact is, that at the time in question there was
a great license in the assumption of coat armour, then just beginning
to be hereditary; and indeed there are frequent instances at that
period of individuals adopting new coats for particular purposes. The
present case is an instance of it; for the coat with the crosses was
actually assumed by Gilbert, father of Strongbow, on his return from
the Holy Land.
The remaining objects of antiquarian research are the
CASTLES,
which are of various dates. Some of these may be as old as the 11th
or 12th century, perhaps older, as it is said that the Scandinavian
chiefs introduced stone into their fortified places, and there are
several Norwegian _round Castles_ still extant. Ledwich divides them
into several eras; first, _old Danish forts_ surrounded with earthen
works, to which was afterwards added a keep of stone and lime, and
sometimes a circular wall; then piles of building encompassed by a
rampart, afterwards called a _Bawn_, and imitated by later colonists;
then houses with battlements and turrets, flankers, &c. Of all these
there is a great variety, as well as number; and the author quoted is
of opinion, that all the castles constructed by British settlers were
by British architects.
The most remarkable of these will be found described in the following
sheets.
If the MINERALOGIST does not find so great a variety of substances to
repay his research as he may do in most parts of the sister-island
of Great Britain, yet the geologist will discover many leading
features upon a large scale that deserve his attention. Hitherto
the little notice that has been taken on these two subjects, of the
soil of Ireland, both superficial and fossil, has been in regard to
agricultural purposes; but from casual discoveries hitherto made,
there seems reason to hope that an accurate mineralogical research
will be both interesting to science and beneficial in political and
domestic economics. So far as general examination has yet gone, and
in order to offer some leading hints to the scientific inquirer, it
may be observed, that sandy soils, such as are frequent in England,
are seldom seen except in maritime situations; but there are many
inland beds of a red substance, too soft to be called stone, yet too
compact to be called sand, though perfectly reducible to that state
by the action of the sun or artificial heat. This however generally,
if not always, lies below a thin stratum of soil more congenial to
vegetation. Of argillaceous earths, clay is not uncommon, but seldom
at the surface, and never so tenacious as in the eastern parts of
England. Pipe-clay is also met with; and an indifferent kind of
fuller's-earth. Calcareous matter is very frequent, as limestone; but
chalk is unknown. Silex is found in limestone quarries; but the flints
are generally in nodules. Loam is frequent, and now much attended to
as a manure or top dressing. Marble and granite, also specimens of
porphyry, exist in many districts; and the marble quarries in Kilkenny
and Carlow in particular, will not fail to arrest the attention of
the geologist, in consequence of the great deposition of sea-shells
and marine exuviæ contained in them. Freestone is also often met
with; presenting, when cut in particular directions, the semblance
of fir-deal in the position of its strata. There is a geological
observation made by the Rev. Mr. Townsend in his Survey of Cork,
which deserves the investigation of the geological tourist, and may
serve to lead him to valuable facts in the course of his research.
That intelligent writer remarks, that in many of the southern
districts, the limits of limestone tracts are generally marked by
the course of a river; and this he illustrates by the fact that the
Blackwater river, in its course from Fermoy to Mill-street, runs at
the south side of the limestone; whilst, for the far greater part
of the way between Castlemore and Cork, a distance of about eleven
miles, the course of the limestone is distinctly marked, first by the
river Bride, and after its junction with the Lee, by the latter river.
During this space, he states that the limestone invariably adheres to
one side of the channel, which it follows in all its windings, without
ever crossing it. At Kinmare the same circumstances may be observed;
and also in the county of Waterford, where, however, the Blackwater
runs to the north of its limestone tract. The bogs are also worthy
both of mineralogical and geological notice; not only on account of
the immense number of fossil oak and yew-trees which they contain; but
also from the fact that many of them which extend for miles in length,
consist, even to a depth of many feet, of a congeries of branches
and twigs of trees, which seem to have required even a succession of
forests for ages to have supplied them. Of these, perhaps, there can
be little doubt that a great portion are actually antediluvian.
Before entering on this part of the investigation, the scientific
tourist will do well to read Mr. Aiton's pamphlet on Moss Earth,
where he will meet with many interesting hints for research. Even the
antiquary will not pass these immense tracts unnoticed, since much
light has been thrown upon the earlier periods of Irish history by
the discovery of curious antiques at considerable depths, by the peat
cutters. Some iron heads of arms, wooden bowls, three sacks full of
nuts, and a coat of ancient texture and construction, were in 1737 dug
from under a moss fifteen feet deep; all of which were in a high state
of perfection. Indeed Mr. Aiton observes, that the singular antiseptic
qualities of moss extend to every thing buried under its surface.
Wood, when exposed to the atmosphere, or buried under any other
earth, will be totally decomposed or annihilated in a few years; but
if it is enveloped in moss before putrefaction has made much progress
upon it, it will remain but little impaired for many centuries. The
underside of moss timber is generally found entire; and Mr. Aiton is
of opinion, that the progress which corruption has made on the upper
side of many specimens, must have taken place before the moss, in its
progress of growth, rose above the trees. Facts of this kind may very
properly lead to observations of the means of preventing the dry rot
in timber; and the chemical tourist may devote an hour most usefully
to the analysis of those substances which are found in the immediate
vicinity of those fossil trees in the highest state of preservation.
Basaltes is another substance which deserves the notice of the
tourist; for, though not peculiar to Ireland, it is perhaps more
interesting here than in any other country, nature presenting it
under the most awful forms; sometimes piled up in immense structures
of stupendous height and extent, where its columns are arranged in
various directions, as if deposited in regular series by the hand of
men. It is principally however in the N.E. district that it is so
found, extending from Carrickfergus-bay to Lough-Foyle, on the sea
coast, and inland even to the southern shores of Lough-Neagh.
Granite forms the great bed of Ireland, and is seen bursting out in
all the great ranges of mountains; not only in the central parts of
the kingdom, but also in the basaltic district.
Ochres, both red and yellow, are found in considerable quantities in
many places. Fuller's-earth has already been mentioned: there are also
several other saponaceous earths, particularly near the Old-Head of
Kinsale in the county of Cork.
Slates are found in most parts of Ireland; and flag-stones are worked
in great quantities in many districts.
The tourist whose time does not admit of much mineralogical research,
may yet be amply gratified on that subject whilst in Dublin, by
examining the collection at the Society's house.
Before starting on an Irish tour, the traveller will naturally
be anxious to know what kind of weather he may expect. To this we
shall answer shortly in the words of Mr. Aldworth of Cork, in a
communication to Mr. Wakefield, wherein he observes that, as an
old agriculturist, he is inclined to think that less rain falls in
the interior of Ireland than in any of the other British Isles,
and yet perhaps there are more wet days there than in the latter;
a circumstance which certainly interferes with travelling in an
open carriage. As the showers however, though frequent, are not,
generally speaking, of very long duration, this inconvenience may
be easily guarded against. To this we may add, that the winds which
most usually prevail in Ireland blow from the west: they are mild
in their temperature, and moist in their nature; but far from being
insalubrious. It has also been well observed by the Rev. Horace
Townshend, after a long residence, that along the sea coast the
winter is disarmed of its severity by the softness of the southern
wind, which mitigates the rigour of the frost, and seldom suffers
the heaviest snow to remain many hours undissolved, except on the
north sides of the high hills. This observation, however, applies
principally to the southern coast; where also the sea breeze tempers
the summer's warmth by its refreshing breath; so that the greatest
degree of heat, as well as cold, is found in the northern districts of
the island. The whole island is remarkably bare of trees, and exhibits
a naked appearance; which is more striking to a traveller whose eye
has been familiarized to the woody counties of England. Yet the varied
aspect arising from the frequency of sea views, combined with the
rude but grand scenery of the mountains, and the different tints they
assume according to their distance, produces a number of beautiful and
diversified prospects.
The ENTOMOLOGIST will also be certain of finding numerous sources of
amusement. Mr. Hall, in his Tour, vol. 2. p. 268, asserts that with a
tolerable glass, one sees animals grazing, like cattle in a meadow,
on the leaves of every vegetable, and these also much larger than in
Great Britain.
Some tourists have been deterred from penetrating into the wildest
parts of the island, by prejudices founded on misrepresentation and
ignorance; but little cause for alarm exists if the tourist chooses to
conduct himself with a little civility to the poor ignorant peasantry
whom he shall meet, even in the loneliest places. On this subject, Mr.
Wakefield records the fact, that when in the county of Mayo, he was
advised not to cross a particular district in his way to Roscommon;
he, however, experienced no inconvenience, except from the hardness of
the roads and his ignorance of the Irish language, there universally
spoken. With respect to the conveniences of travelling, we must not
lead the tourist astray by inducing him to believe that, except upon
the great frequented roads, he will meet with any thing like the
accommodations so general in England. But if he can patiently bear
with minor difficulties, he may pursue his route over great part of
the island by mail and stage-coaches, and in general by post-chaises,
if not provided with his own horses or carriages. The Inns, indeed,
will often disappoint him, both in accommodation and cleanliness; yet
he may always be certain of clean sheets, and his culinary comforts
are clean, if he can content himself with plain dishes. Travelling
however is so unfrequent, that in many places, when a visitor does
arrive at an inn, he appears to be considered as an inexhaustible
gold mine, not only by the landlord, but also by the numerous host of
retainers, many of whom he never sees until going away. Before we take
leave of the tourist, it may be proper to offer him a few hints from
Sir R. C. Hoare's Work, which will be extremely useful to him.
If he chooses to go to the expense of his own carriage and horses,
he will certainly ensure to himself much independence; especially
if he takes care to select a judicious route. For a party also,
this would perhaps be as cheap a mode as can well be adopted. But
if he is a single traveller, or with one companion, and not averse
to pedestrianism, then he may find a general facility by taking the
direct and cross coaches from station to station, hiring horses for
long excursions, and walking those of a shorter range. Before leaving
Dublin, Belfast, or Waterford, the three points from whence an English
tourist is likely to start, let him make a fair calculation of time
and distance, allow a certain sum per mile and a certain sum per day,
and then supply his purse with the paper and coined currency most
likely to answer in the district he intends to visit. This he will not
find difficult at the places mentioned, or indeed at any of the larger
towns; but let him be on his guard against bad money and forged notes;
and also, if he has any Irish currency left at the end of his tour,
let him change it for English when setting off to return.
It now only remains to add, that every writer, both ancient and
modern, on the subject of Ireland, has been consulted; aided by the
communications of friends and a general personal knowledge of the
Topography of Ireland on the part of the Editor.
The tourist will observe that the distances are given in Irish miles,
of which, eleven are equal to fourteen English. The distances of
the county towns from the capital are taken on the authority of the
latest surveys; whilst the distances in the vicinage of the several
stations are from common computation or from the best maps, and may
be depended on for every useful purpose to the inquisitive traveller,
bearing in mind that bogs and mountains often render roads circuitous,
in which cases local inquiry, and also for the best roads, will often
be beneficial, and sometimes necessary. Reference to many of the
authorities will be found in the work itself; but it may be added
that the county surveys have been carefully examined and compared
with earlier descriptions, independent of the general notices from
Hoare, Hall, Plumptre, Curwen, Drummond, Weld, and all the recent
topographical works, together with several recent anonymous tours,
whose proved accuracy, in many points, renders them worthy of notice
in all.
TOPOGRAPHICAL DIVISION OF IRELAND,
_With the Baronies, Parishes, and Contents in Irish Acres._
_Baron._ _Parish._ _Acres._
{ *Armagh contains 5 20 181,450
{ Down 8 60 348,550
ULSTER. { Antrim 8 77 387,200
_9 Counties._ { Londonderry 4 31 318,500
8298 { Donnegal 5 42 679,550
square miles. { *Tyrone 4 35 463,700
{ Fermanagh 8 18 283,450
{ *Cavan 7 30 301,000
{ *Monaghan 5 19 179,600
-- --- ----------
54 332 3,143,000
_Lough Neagh_ covers 58,200
----------
3,201,200
----------
{ Louth 4 61 110,750
{ Meath 12 147 327,900
{ Dublin 6 107 142,050
{ Wicklow 6 58 311,600
LEINSTER. { Wexford 8 142 342,900
_12 Counties._ { *Kilkenny 9 127 300,350
6936 { *Carlow 5 50 137,050
square miles. { *Kildare 10 113 236,750
{ *Queen's County 8 50 235,300
{ *King's County 11 52 282,200
{ *Westmeath 12 62 231,550
{ *Longford 6 23 134,150
-- --- ---------
97 992 2,792,550
-- --- ---------
CONNAUGHT. { Galway 16 116 989,950
_5 Counties._ { Mayo 9 68 790,600
7125 { Sligo 6 39 247,150
square miles. { Leitrim 5 17 255,950
{ *Roscommon 6 56 346,650
-- --- ---------
42 296 2,630,300
-- --- ---------
{ Cork 16 269 1,048,800
MUNSTER. { Kerry 8 83 647,650
_6 Counties._ { Clare 9 79 476,200
9000 { Limerick 9 125 386,750
square miles. { *Tipperary 10 186 554,950
{ Waterford 7 74 262,800
-- --- ---------
69 816 3,377,150
--- ----- ----------
252 2,436 12,001,200†
* The thirteen _inland_ counties are distinguished by an asterisk.
† All fractions having been excluded from this calculation, it is very
much _under_ the full number of acres in Ireland.
An Irish Acre contains 7840 square yards.
Scotch 6130 ditto.
English 4840 ditto.
From Port Patrick to Donaghadee 25 English miles.
Holyhead to Dublin 63 ditto.
Milford Haven to Waterford 85 ditto.
No part of Ireland is more than fifty miles from the sea.
ECCLESIASTICAL DIVISION OF IRELAND.
_The Province of_ ARMAGH _contains Ten Dioceses*._
663 Parishes, 446 Churches.
†16 Abpk. of Armagh 11 Bpk. of Raphoe
23 Bpk. of Dromore 9 ---- of Clogher
7 ---- of Down } 12 ---- of Kilmor
---- of Connor} _united._ 22 ---- of Ardagh‡
6 ---- of Derry 5 ---- of Meath
_The Province of_ DUBLIN _contains Five Dioceses._
658 Parishes, 217 Churches.
15 Abpk. of Dublin 3 Bpk. of Ferns }
21 Bpk. of Kildare ---- of Leighlin} _united._
20 ---- of Ossory
_The Province of_ CASHEL _contains Eleven Dioceses._
839 Parishes, 254 Churches.
17 Abpk. of Cashel} 8 Bpk. of Cloyne
Bpk. of Emly } _united._ 2 ---- of Limerick}
19 ---- of Waterford} ---- of Ardfert } _united._
---- of Lismore } _united._ and Aghadoe }
14 ---- of Cork} 4 ---- of Killaloe }
---- of Ross} _united._ ---- of Kilfenora} _united._
_The Province of_ TUAM _contains Six Dioceses._
276 Parishes, 87 Churches.
1 Abpk. of Tuam 18 Bpk. of Elphin
21 Bpk. of Clonfert } 10 ---- of Killalla
---- of Killmacduagh} _united._ ---- of Achonry.
* The dioceses are placed with respect to contiguity, not
according to rank; for the bishop of _Meath_ has precedence of all
bishops, and next to him _Kildare_; the other bishops take place
according to the date of their consecration.
† The figures indicate the order in comparative extent of
each diocese.
‡ _Ardagh_, though in this province, is at present annexed
to the archbishoprick of _Tuam_.
LEGAL DIVISION OF IRELAND.
CIRCUITS OF THE JUDGES.
_The Assize Towns are marked with an Asterisk, thus_, (*).
MUNSTER CIRCUIT.
From DUBLIN to
*Waterford | _Waterford_ | -- | 74
Carrick | _Tipperary_ | 14 | 88
*Clonmell | _Tipperary_ | 10 | 98
*CORK | _Cork_ | 42 | 140
Mill-Street | _Cork_ | 22 | 162
Castle-Island | _Kerry_ | 18 | 180
*Tralee | _Kerry_ | 8 | 188
Castle-Island | _Kerry_ | 8 | 196
Abbyfeale | _Limerick_ | 8 | 204
Newcastle | _Limerick_ | 2 | 213
Rathkeale | _Limerick_ | 6 | 219
Adair | _Limerick_ | 6 | 225
*LIMERICK | _Limerick_ | 8 | 233
DUBLIN | _Dublin_ | 94 | 327
CONNAUGHT CIRCUIT.
From DUBLIN to
*Roscommon | _Roscommon_ | -- | 69
Tulsk | _Roscommon_ | 9 | 78
Elphin | _Roscommon_ | 5 | 83
*Carrick | _Leitrim_ | 7 | 90
Boyle | _Roscommon_ | 7 | 97
*Sligo | _Sligo_ | 17 | 114
Ballisidare | _Sligo_ | 3 | 117
Coloony | _Sligo_ | 2 | 119
Tobercorry | _Sligo_ | 11 | 130
Banada | _Sligo_ | 4 | 134
Kilmateague | _Sligo_ | 3 | 137
Foxford | _Mayo_ | 8 | 145
*Castlebar† | _Mayo_ | 11 | 156
Balcarra | _Mayo_ | 5 | 161
Newbrook | _Mayo_ | 5 | 166
Holymount | _Mayo_ | 4 | 170
Kilmain | _Mayo_ | 3 | 173
Shrule | _Mayo_ | 3 | 176
Cahirmorres | _Galway_ | 6 | 182
*Galway | _Galway_ | 11 | 193
Gort | _Galway_ | 17 | 210
Crusheen | _Clare_ | 8 | 218
*Ennis | _Clare_ | 6 | 224
Gort | _Galway_ | 14 | 238
Loughrea | _Galway_ | 12 | 250
Kilconnel | _Galway_ | 6 | 256
Ahascragh | _Galway_ | 5 | 261
Mount-Talbot | _Roscommon_ | 9 | 270
Roscommon | _Roscommon_ | 7 | 277
DUBLIN | _Dublin_ | 69 | 346
† At Ballinrobe generally in the Spring, and at Castlebar in the
Summer.
LEINSTER CIRCUIT.
From DUBLIN to
*Wicklow | _Wicklow_ | -- | 24
Arklow | _Wicklow_ | 12 | 36
Gorey | _Wicklow_ | 9 | 45
Castlebridge | _Wexford_ | 19 | 64
*Wexford | _Wexford_ | 2 | 66
Ross | _Wexford_ | 19 | 85
*KILKENNY | _Kilkenny_ | 19 | 104
Leighlin Bridge | _Carlow_ | 12 | 116
*Carlow | _Carlow_ | 6 | 122
*Athy† | _Kildare_ | 9 | 131
*Maryborough | _Queen's Co._ | 12 | 143
*Philipstown | _King's Co._ | 17 | 160
DUBLIN | _Dublin_ | 38 | 198
† At Nass generally in the Spring, and at Athy in the Summer.
ULSTER, _North East_.
From DUBLIN to
*Drogheda | _Droghedaco._ | -- | 23
*Dundalk | _Louth_ | 17 | 40
*Downpatrick | _Down_ | 32 | 72
Saintfield | _Down_ | 8 | 80
*Carrickfergus | _Antrim_ | 17 | 97
Belfast | _Antrim_ | 8 | 105
Lisburn | _Antrim_ | 7 | 112
Lurgan | _Armagh_ | 10 | 122
Portadown | _Armagh_ | 5 | 127
Richhill | _Armagh_ | 5 | 132
*Armagh | _Armagh_ | 4 | 136
Tynan | _Armagh_ | 6 | 142
Glaslough | _Monaghan_ | 3 | 145
*Monaghan | _Monaghan_ | 5 | 150
Castleshane | _Monaghan_ | 3 | 153
Castleblayney | _Monaghan_ | 8 | 161
Peterborough | _Monaghan_ | 7 | 168
Mill of Louth | _Louth_ | 5 | 173
Ardee | _Louth_ | 5 | 178
Navan | _Meath_ | 15 | 193
*Trim | _Meath_ | 7 | 200
DUBLIN | _Dublin_ | 22 | 222
ULSTER, _North West_.
From DUBLIN to
Kilcock | _Kildare_ | -- | 14
Infield | _Meath_ | 5 | 19
Kinnegad | _W. Meath_ | 10 | 29
*Mullingar | _W. Meath_ | 9 | 38
Ballinalack | _W. Meath_ | 8 | 46
Edgeworth's-to. | _Longford_ | 6 | 52
*Longford | _Longford_ | 6 | 58
Granard | _Longford_ | 12 | 70
*Cavan | _Cavan_ | 13 | 83
Newtonbutler | _Fermanagh_ | 11 | 94
M'Gwire's bridge | _Fermanagh_ | 7 | 101
*Enniskillen | _Fermanagh_ | 7 | 108
Trillick | _Fermanagh_ | 9 | 117
*Omagh | _Tyrone_ | 11 | 128
Newtownstewart | _Tyrone_ | 7 | 135
Strabane | _Tyrone_ | 7 | 142
*Lifford | _Donnegal_ | 1 | 143
*LONDONDERRY | _Derry_ | 12 | 155
DUBLIN | _Dublin_ | 115 | 270
HOME CIRCUIT.
TO CARLOW.
From Carlow, Grangemellon, Andrie, _Athy_.
From Athy, Stradbally, _Maryborough_.
From Maryborough, Portarlington, Clonegowan, Geshil, _Philipstown_.
From Philipstown, Terrilspass, Rochfort, _Mullingar_.
From Mullingar, Killucan, Raharney, _Trim_.
COMPARATIVE HEIGHT
OF
THE CHIEF MOUNTAINS IN IRELAND,
_Above the Level of the Sea_.
_Eng. feet._
_M'Gillicuddy's Reeks_, Co. of Kerry, 3404
_Sleibh Dorm_, Co. of Londonderry, 3150
_Knockmeledown_[2], dividing Cork, Tipperary, and Waterford, 2700
_Croagh Patrick_, Co. of Mayo, 2666
_Nephin_, Ditto, 2640
_Mangerton_, above the Lake of Killarney, Co. Kerry, 2505
_Mourne Hills_, Co. of Down, 2500
_Commerach Ridge_, Co. Waterford, 2160
_Croaghan Kinshelly_, Bar. of Arklow, 1850
_Sawell_, Co. of Londonderry, 1600
_Slenish Mountain_, Co. of Antrim, 1390
_Alt-English-Hill_, Co. of Londonderry, 1300
_Benbradagh_, Co. of Londonderry, 1300
_Benyevenach_, Ditto, 1250
_Sleibh Gallan_, Ditto, 1250
_Donald's Hill_, Ditto, 1200
_Kedy_, Ditto, 1100
_Croneham_, Co. of Wicklow, 1000
_Croaghmore_, Co. of Antrim, 600
ISLE OF MAN.
_Inafel_, in centre of the Island, 1740
[2] On the top of this mountain Henry Eles by his own desire
was buried; he was an ingenious man, and published several tracts on
electricity.
[From Rees's _Cyclopedia_.]
LIST _of_ ROUND TOWERS; _principally extracted from_ Dr. Beaufort's
Memoir, _with an indication of those he had seen marked with an
Asterisk_.
Key:
_Ht._ = Height in Feet.
_Cf._ = Circumf.
_Th._ = Thickness of Walls.
_Dr._ = Door from ground.
In ULSTER, 9. |_Ht._|_Cf._|_Th._|_Dr._
+-----+-----+-----+-----
_Antrim_, near *Antrim, at a place called | | | |
Steeple. | | | |
at Armoy. | | | |
in *Ram Island, in Lough Neagh | | | |
_Cavan_, at Drumlane. | | | |
_Down_, at *Drumbo. | | | |
at *Maghera, half only is standing | | | |
_Fermanagh_, in *Devenish Island, in | | | |
Lough Erne | 76 | 41 | 3-6 |
_Monaghan_, at Clones. | | | |
at *Eniskeen. | | | |
| | | |
In LEINSTER, 26. | | | |
| | | |
_Dublin_, at *Clondalkin | 84 | | |
at *Lusk. | | | |
at Rathmichael. | | | |
at *Swords | 73 | 55 | 4-8 | 2
_Kildare_, at *Castledermot. | | | |
at *Killcullen | 40 | 44 | 3-6 | 7
at *Kildare | 132 | 54 | 3-6 | 13
at Oughterard | 25 | 48 | 3 | 8
at Taghadoe | 71 | 38 | 3-8 | 11-6
_Kilkenny_, at *Aghavuller, part only | | | |
remaining. | | | |
at Fertagh, alias Beggar's Inn | 112 | 48 | 3-8 | 10
at *Kilkenny, or rather in | | | |
Irishtown. | | | |
at Kilree. | | | |
at Tulloherin. | | | |
_King's County_, at *Clonmacnoise--two | | | |
_Louth_, at *Dromiskin, part of one | 130 | | |
at *Monasterboice | 110 | 51 | 3-6 | 6
_Meath_, at *Donaghmore. | | | |
at *Kells | 99 | 48 | 3 |
_Monaghan_, at Clones--one perfect, one | | | |
ruinous. | | | |
_Queen's County_, at *Dysert. | | | |
at *Timahoe | 35 | 53 | 4-4 | 14
_Wicklow_, at Glandelough--two, one of | | | |
them perfect. | | | |
| | | |
In MUNSTER, 14. | | | |
| | | |
_Clare_, at *Drumcliff. | | | |
at *Dysart. | | | |
in Iniscalthra, in Lough Deirgeart | | | |
in Scattery Isle, in the Shannon | 120 | | |
_Cork_, at *Cloyne | 92 | 50 | 3-8 | 13
at *Ballybeg, the stump of one. | | | |
at Kineth | 70 | | |
_Kerry_, at *Aghadoe. | | | |
at Rattoo. | | | |
_Limerick_, at *Dysert. | | | |
at *Kilmallock. | | | |
_Tipperary_, at *Cashel on the Rock | | 54 | 4 | 11
at *Roscrea | 80 | 45 | |
_Waterford_, at Ardmore | 100 | 45 | |
| | | |
In CONNAUGHT, 9. | | | |
| | | |
_Galway_, at Feartamore. | | | |
at *Kilmacduagh | 112 | 57 | | 24
_Mayo_, at Aghagower. | | | |
at Ballagh. | | | |
at *Killalla. | | | |
at *Melick. | | | |
at *Turlough | 70 | 45 | | 29
_Roscommon_, at Oran. | | | |
_Sligo_, at *Drumcliffe, the ruin of one. | | | |
These towers are all standing; there were five others still perfect
within a few years.
1. Co. Down, at _Downpatrick_, lately taken down[3], was 66 feet high,
47 in circumference.
[3] The round tower of Downpatrick was taken down, in order
to enlarge the west end of the cathedral, which is now repairing,
after having lain in ruins for a great number of years. And it is
very remarkable, that under the foundations of this tower, were found
the vestiges of a more ancient church, which appears to have been of
exceeding good masonry, and upon a larger scale than the present old
fabrick; in the walls of which there are many pieces of cut stone,
that have evidently been used in some former building. The same
circumstance may also be observed in several of the ruined churches at
Clonmacnoise.
2. Co. Dublin, in _Ship-street_, Dublin, destroyed a few years since.
3. Co. Cork, at _Cork_, pulled down about fifty years.
4. Ditto, at _Brigown_, not long down.
5. Co. Kerry, at _Ardfert_, which fell in 1770.
A very ingenious friend remarks[4], that almost all our round towers
are divided into stories of different heights; the floors supported
in some by projecting stones, in others, joists put in the wall at
building, and in many they are placed upon rests. The last are from
four to six inches, carried round and taken off the thickness of
the wall in the story above; and he very probably conjectures that
these rests do not diminish the thickness of the wall as they ascend,
because then it would not have been sufficiently strong to bear storms
or support the conical cap which was generally solid and heavily
constructed. They seem therefore to be swellings in the wall which
rather add to its thickness upwards, and this Mr. Cooper confirms by
the round tower at _Lusk_, whose wall is three feet thick at top.
_Cashel_ tower is divided into five stories, with holes for joists.
[4] From Ledwich's _Antiquities of Ireland_.
_Fertagh_ has five stories and one rest.--_Kilcullen_ has
three stories and one rest.--_Kildare_ has six stories and
projecting stones for each.--_Monasterboice_ has six stories and
projecting stones.--_Oughterard_ has five stories and projecting
stones.--_Taghadoe_ has six stories, the upper has projecting stones,
the others rests.--_Timahoe_ has seven stories, the second has
projecting stones, the others rests.
The door of _Cashel Tower_ faces the S.E., those of _Kildare_ and
_Kilkenny_ the S., and the others vary.
Four small windows were placed at the top of _Kells Tower_ pointing to
the four cardinal points.
_Kenith Tower_ stands 124 feet--_Drumbo_ 20 feet--_Downpatrick_ 48
feet--_Kildare_ 90 feet--_Kilkenny_ 8 feet--_Dromiskin_ 90 feet, from
their respective Churches. _Ardmore_, _Castledermot_, _Cloyne_, and
other _Towers_ were formerly and at present are used for belfries.
GLOSSARY,
_Or Explanation of some of those Irish Words which most frequently
occur in composition with the names of places._
_Agh_, a Field.
_Anagh_ or _Ana_, a River.
_Ard_, a high Place, or rising Ground.
_Ath_, a Ford.
_Awin_, a River.
_Bally_ or _Ballin_, a Town, or inclosed place of habitation.
_Ban_ or _Bane_, White, or Fair.
_Beg_, Little.
_Ben_, the summit of a Mountain, generally an abrupt head.
_Bun_, a Bottom, Foundation, or Root.
_Car_ or _Cahir_, a city.
_Carrick_, _Carrig_, _Carrow_, a Rock or Stony Place.
_Cork_, _Corcagh_, a Marsh, or swampy Ground.
_Clara_, a Plain.
_Croagh_, _Croghan_, a sharp pointed Hill resembling a Rick.
_Clogh_, _Clough_, a great Stone.
_Curragh_, a marshy or fenny Plain.
_Clon_, a Glade, or a level Pasture Ground.
_Col_, _Cul_, a Corner.
_Derry_, a clear dry Spot in the midst of a woody swamp.
_Don_, a Height or Fastness, a Fortress.
_Donagh_, a Church.
_Drom_, a high narrow Ridge of Hills.
_Inch_, _Inis_, an Island.
_Ken_, a Head.
_Kill_, a Church or Cemetery.
_Knock_, a single Hill, or a Hillock.
_Lick_, a flat stone.
_Lough_, a Lake, or a Pool.
_Magh_, a Plain.
_Main_, a Collection of Hillocks.
_More_, large, great.
_Rath_, a Mount or Entrenchment, a Barrow.
_Ross_, a Point of Land projecting into Waters.
_Shan_, Old.
_Sliebh_, a range of Mountain, a Hill _covered with Heath_.
_Tach_, a House.
_Temple_, a Church.
_Tom_, _Toom_, a Bush.
_Tra_, a Strand.
_Tobar_, _Tubber_, a Well or Spring.
_Tullagh_, a gentle Hill, a Common.
_Tully_, a Place subject to Floods.
TABLE _showing the Difference in Value of_ ENGLISH _and_
IRISH CURRENCY.
English Money exchanged into ||Irish Money exchanged into
Irish, at Par: One Pound || English, at Par: 1Ɩ. 1s. 8d.
English being 1Ɩ. ls. 8d. Irish.|| Irish being 1Ɩ. English.
-----+----------+----+------------++-----+-------------+-----+--------
Eng. | Irish |Eng.| Irish ||Irish| English |Irish|English
-----+----------+----+------------++-----+-------------+-----+--------
£ | £ s. d.| s. | s. d. q. || £ | £ s. d. q.| s. |s. d. q.
900 |975 0 0 | 3 | 3 3 0 || 900 |830 15 4 2 | 4 | 3 8 1
800 |866 13 4 | 4 | 4 4 0 || 800 |738 9 2 3 | 5 | 4 7 1
700 |758 6 8 | 5 | 5 5 0 || 700 |646 3 0 3 | 6 | 5 6 1
600 |650 0 0 | 6 | 6 6 0 || 600 |553 16 11 0 | 7 | 6 5 2
500 |541 13 4 | 7 | 7 7 0 || 500 |461 10 9 0 | 8 | 7 4 2
400 |433 6 8 | 8 | 8 8 0 || 400 |369 4 7 1 | 9 | 8 3 2
300 |325 0 0 | 9 | 9 9 0 || 300 |276 18 5 2 | 10 | 9 2 3
200 |216 13 4 |10 |10 10 0 || 200 |184 12 3 2 | 11 |10 1 3
100 |108 6 8 |11 |11 11 0 || 100 | 92 6 1 3 | 12 |11 0 3
90 | 97 10 0 |12 |13 0 0 || 90 | 83 1 6 1 | 13 |12 0 0
80 | 86 13 4 |13 |14 1 0 || 80 | 73 16 11 0 | 14 |12 11 0
70 | 75 16 8 |14 |15 2 0 || 70 | 64 12 3 2 | 15 |13 10 0
60 | 65 0 0 |15 |16 3 0 || 60 | 55 7 8 1 | 16 |14 9 0
50 | 54 3 4 |16 |17 4 0 || 50 | 46 3 0 3 | 17 |15 8 1
40 | 43 6 8 |17 |18 5 0 || 40 | 36 18 5 2 | 18 |16 7 1
30 | 32 10 0 | |19 6 0 || 30 | 27 13 10 0 | 19 |17 6 1
20 | 21 13 4 | d. | || 20 | 18 9 2 3 | d. |
10 | 10 16 8 | 1 | 0 1 0 || 10 | 9 4 7 1 | 1 | 0 0 3
9 | 9 15 0 | 2 | 0 2 0 || 9 | 8 6 1 3 | 2 | 0 1 3
8 | 8 13 4 | 3 | 0 3 1 || 8 | 7 7 8 1 | 3 | 0 2 3
7 | 7 11 8 | 4 | 0 4 1 || 7 | 6 9 2 3 | 4 | 0 3 2
6 | 6 10 0 | 5 | 0 5 1 || 6 | 5 10 9 0 | 5 | 0 4 2
5 | 5 8 4 | 6 | 0 6 2 || 5 | 4 12 3 2 | 6 | 0 5 2
4 | 4 6 8 | 7 | 0 7 2 || 4 | 3 13 10 0 | 7 | 0 6 1
3 | 3 5 0 | 8 | 0 8 2 || 3 | 2 15 4 2 | 8 | 0 7 1
2 | 2 3 4 | 9 | 0 9 3 || 2 | 1 16 11 0 | 9 | 0 8 1
1 | 1 1 8 |10 | 0 10 3 || 1 | 0 18 5 2 | 10 | 0 9 0
Sh.| |11 | 0 11 3 || Sh. | | 11 | 0 10 0
19 | 1 0 7 |q. | || 1 | 0 0 11 0 | q. |
1 | 0 1 1 | 1 | 0 6 1 || 2 | 0 1 10 0 | 1 | 0 0 1
2 | 0 2 2 | 2 | 0 0 2 || 3 | 0 2 0 0 | 2 | 0 0 2
| | 3 | 0 0 3 || | | 3 | 0 0 0
Description of FRONTISPIECE and other PLATES, with Directions for
placing them.
_Frontispiece_ _Irish Antiquities_, viz.
1.--Oratory near Killaloe, supposed the oldest and most curious Monuments
in Ireland; they are also to be seen at Glendaloch, Co.
of Wicklow; St. Doulach's near Dublin; at Cashel, Co. of Tipperary;
and Portaferry, Co. of Down.
Vide _Killaloe, Co. of Clare._
2.--Round Tower, a species of building peculiar to Ireland; that at
Swords is here represented. Vide _Swords, Co. Dublin._
3.--Sculptured Cross at Monasterboice, 18 feet high, of which Character
there are several in Ireland--Vide _Drogheda, Co. of Louth._
4.--Chapel, Round Tower, and Cathedral, at Cashel--distant view.
The Chapel is considered one of the most curious in the kingdom.
The situation and antiquity of this place, as well as its picturesque
beauty, constitute it a place of much interest.
Vide _Cashel, Co. of Tipperary._
5.--Hook Tower, founded upon a rock, surrounded by precipices on
one side and shelving rocks on the other; the walls are of amazing
thickness, with stairs to the top. This is similar to Reginald's
Tower, Waterford, and other Danish Round Towers, or Forts,
dispersed over the kingdom. Vide _Fethard, Co. of Wexford._
6.--Giant's Causeway. Vide _Co. of Antrim._
7.--Mountains as they appear in the distance from Dunlow Castle,
Lake of Killarney. Vide _Killarney, Co. of Kerry._
The Vignette.
Map of Ireland _To face Antrim._
View from Warren's Point, near Narrow Water, Newry.
_To face Newry, Co. of Down._
View of Dublin from the Circular Road in the environs, with Richmond
or Sarah Bridge in the foreground
_To face the City of Dublin, on the 2d page of Co. Dublin._
Map and Plan of the Lakes of Killarney, and surrounding objects
_To face Killarney, Co. of Kerry._
View of the Lake and Mountain at Killarney from Lord Kenmare's
seat _To face 4th Page of Co. of Kerry._
View of Eagles Nest, and site of wonderful Echo--Lake of Killarney
_To face 6th Page of Co. of Kerry._
Carlingford Harbour and Castle--a brisk gale
_To face Carlingford, Co. of Louth._
Glendaloch, or Valley of Seven Churches.
_To face Glendaloch, Co. of Wicklow._
[Illustration: _Engraved for the Scientific Tourist._
IRELAND.
_London. Published by J. Booth, Duke Street, Portland Place, 1818._]
ANTRIM.
42 m. from N. to S. 24 from E. to W. containing 430,000 Irish acres;
bounded by the sea on the N. and E., by Down on the S. by Lough
Neagh and Derry on the W. It contains much diversified scenery; is
mountainous on the northern, and eastern coasts, but extends into
fertile plains in the interior. Its great extent of sea coast affords
every variety in science and the picturesque; mountains wild, covered
with heath and bog, or frowning in abrupt and rugged cliffs; towards
Lough Neagh all the mild beauties of cultivation: the vale of the
Lagan, between Belfast and Lisburn, cannot be surpassed for beauty,
cultivation, elegant villas, bleach-greens, and comfortable cottages,
with all the varieties of hill, dale, wood, and water, by any tract of
equal extent in the empire. Its ancient inhabitants were the _Darni_,
succeeded by the _Dalriadi_, afterwards by the _Ostmen_, and finally
by English and Scottish settlers. Lofty hills afford great amusement
to the botanist and geologist, particularly the range near Belfast,
amongst which Devis is 1400 ft. high; the Cave Hill 1140; Carmony 790;
and the Knockagh 903. These and others consist principally of a compact
body of limestone rock, over which, extending along the whole coast as
far as the Giant's Causeway, a diffusion of vitrifiable stone has been
superinduced in a state of softness, now forming a hard basalt, resting
generally on a base of variegated sandstone dipping to the W.
ANTRIM, 16 m. from Belfast, 84 m. from Dublin.--On the banks of the
Six-mile Water, near its confluence with Lough Neagh, see the Castle,
a seat of the Massarene family. 2 m. W. ruins of Shane's Castle;
near it, the field where a furious battle was fought in the late
rebellion, in which Lord O'Neil fell by the hand of ingratitude;
round tower. This ancient Castle has lately become a mass of ruins,
in consequence of a most destructive fire; yet it is still worth
visiting, being beautifully seated on the banks of Lough Neagh, facing
the S.W. the waters of which formerly washed its walls, but were
some years ago fenced off by an embankment, on which was erected a
handsome green-house. Nothing can be more majestic than the view from
the Castle of the vast expanse of water, and the neighbouring banks
considerably enriched with trees and verdure, through which are many
charming walks and rides. The demesne and park are of great extent,
through which a fine stream runs, taking its rise from a small lake
10 m. distant. Near the small lake is an elegant cottage called Remon
Lodge, originally fitted up for retirement and shooting-parties,
shaded with large venerable trees, and altogether a delightful
sequestered spot.
BALLINDERRY, 14 m. S.W. of Belfast.--Neat village. Good station for
Lough Neagh; ruins of Portmore Castle. 3 m. N. in the Lough, Ram's
Island with a round tower.
BALLYCASTLE, 47 m. N. from Belfast.--Improving sea-port town, with
a Colliery. Ruins of the old Castle; Abbey; and Gobbin's Heir, 1 m.
S.E. See the Coal-pits and Kelp-works: also the ancient Coal-mine or
Gallery lately discovered, supposed to be Danish. Chalybeate Spa.
Danish Raths. Romantic scenery round the cliffs, with Raghery Island
6 m. N. in the distant horizon, presenting to the eye of taste, in
a fine evening, a singular prospect, with its chalky cliffs crowned
by a venerable covering of brown rock, broken into beautiful and
picturesque variety by the turbulent ocean. On the road to Portrush
a singular little fishing rock, always an object of interest to
tourists, called Carrick-a-Rede; connected to the main land by an
extraordinary flying bridge over an abrupt and romantic chasm 60
feet in breadth. See also the White Rocks about 1 m. E. from Port
Rush, well worth examining, with a beautiful calcareous façade
extending about 1/2 a m., capriciously hollowed into a vast number of
magnificent caves of various sizes. Also the cliffs of Craigmillar. 5
m. S. Ardmoy village, with neat Ch. and curious round tower: on the
road on the right, ruins of an old Castle. See Knocklede, recently a
volcano, and Kinfane Castle.
BALLYMENA, 8 m. N. of Antrim.--See Gilgorm Castle, and the Moravian
settlement at Grace-hill. Slemish mountain, an interesting object.
5 m. N. is Clough, a small neat village. See the Ch., plain but
handsome, with ruins of two Castles.
BALLYMONY, 23 m. N. from Antrim.--Thriving village by linen
manufacture. 4 m. N. village of Dervock, with the beautiful seats
of Belleisle and Cloverhill. 6 m. E. is Lough Guill. See Ch., and
Lissanoure Castle on the banks of the lake, a most romantic mansion
and grounds.
BELFAST, 84 m. N. from Dublin.--Flourishing commercial town at head of
Carrickfergus Bay. Elegant Ch. and Chapel-of-ease. House of Industry.
White and brown Linen-Halls. Academical Institution. Bridge of 21
arches over Lagan, with romantic prospect of the bay and surrounding
hills. Exchange and Assembly Rooms. Various charitable Institutions.
Philosophical and Musical Societies; the latter for revival of the
Harp. Quays and Docks. Glass-houses and Iron-founderies. 3 m. N. the
Cave-hill, with caves and romantic scenery, and a most extensive
prospect from its summit. Delightful ride towards Carrickfergus, with
numerous seats and villas; several Danish raths, and the ruins of
White Abbey. 5 m. S.E. of Belfast, near Ballydrain, is the Giant's
Ring, an extensive circular earthen mound 2256 feet in circumference,
with a Druidical Cromlech in the centre. Near it Collin and Devis
mountains, with ancient caves called the "Picts," and fine view of
Lough Neagh: across the Lagan 3 m. is the elegant seat of Belvoir.
BENGORE HEAD,--the most northern extremity of the island, and an
object in the tour to Giant's Causeway, which it much resembles.
BUSH MILLS, 8 m. N.E. from Coleraine.--The nearest accommodation for
the Giant's Causeway. 3 m. N.E. Ruins of Dunluce Castle on a romantic
cliff. 3-1/2 m. N.W. the seat of ancient Irish chieftains, and
surrounded by the scenery of Ossian's first poem. Take a boat for view
of the coast.
CARRICKFERGUS, 8 m. N.E. of Belfast, the county and assize
town.--Ancient Castle built by Hugh Lacy, Earl of Ulster, in 1178.
Ch. with monuments of the Donnegall family. New Court-house and Gaol.
Some remains of an ancient monastery: ancient walls and pier where K.
William landed. Romantic scenery towards the N.E. and Island Magee,
including Castle Dobbs, and Kilroot where Thurot landed. 3 m. N.W.
ruins of Abbey at Monks Town, where tradition points out the grave of
King Fergus.
CUSHENDUN, 10 m. from Glenarm.--A small village in a romantic bay;
grotesque caves, and a caverned rock on which Red Castle stands: it
presents several specimens of whyn dykes to the geologist, containing
veins of calcareous spar mixed with coarse-grained basaltes. Between
it and Glenarm, about half way, rises the sharp promontory of Garron
Point, exhibiting a beautifully diversified trapose outline, and
projecting far into the sea, on a limestone base wrought into caverns
by the restless surge. A little N. of the point is the romantic vale
of Glenariff, containing red sandstone, porphyry intermixed with
veins of jasper, and a curious breccia or pudding-stone; but, to the
sentimental traveller it is even more interesting; for here he may
conceive himself in the genuine country of Ossian, as nearly every
romantic object in the vicinity bears a name connected with that hero.
DUNLUCE CASTLE, 5 m. W. of Bushmills.--The most striking ruin on the
coast; on an isolated, abrupt rock, perforated by the waves which
have formed under it a very spacious cavern. The approach to it is
along a narrow wall; but it well repays the risk; its dark basaltic
walls marked with the mellow tints of time, in some places forming
a perpendicular line with the rock on which it stands, whilst its
commanding situation, its numerous gables and turrets, (resembling
the ruins of a village destroyed by fire,) excite a high idea of its
former magnificence, and a feeling of regret for its lost splendour.
It was built probably by De Courcey, afterwards enlarged by native
chieftains, and finally by the Macdonnels in the time of Elizabeth.
Though in total ruin, a particular chamber is said to be haunted, and
to be the favourite abode of Mave Roe, a Banshee or such fictitious
personage, who sweeps it every night; but, as Dr. Drummond observes,
the sweeping winds that rush through that and the other desolate
apartments, will sufficiently account for the cleanness of the room
without the aid of supernatural agency.
FAIRHEAD or BENMORE, 4 m. N.E. of Ballycastle.--Is a most interesting
object, towering magnificently with its massive columns of basaltes,
forming a line of coast the most fantastically beautiful that
imagination can conceive. It is strongly characterized by the savage
wildness of its cliffs, at whose foot the ocean rages with uncommon
fury. Scarce a single mark of vegetation has yet crept over the hard
rock to diversify its colour, but one uniform grayness pervades its
scenery, contrasting exquisitely with Bengore, about 9 m. distant to
the W. The tourist must visit the Fhirleath or Gray Man's Path, a deep
chasm dividing the solitary promontory in twain, with its solid walls
of rude and threatening columns upwards of 200 feet in perpendicular
abruptness.
GIANT'S CAUSEWAY, 8 m. W. from Ballycastle, and about 3 m. N. of
Bushmills (the general station for tourists).--Is an object not to be
described in small limits, being a most singular geological curiosity
and one of Nature's most stupendous productions. Dr. Drummond briefly
states it to consist of three moles, composed of basaltic columns
projecting into the sea from the middle of the semicircular bay of
Port Noffer; the longest of which, called the Grand Causeway, extends
in a sloping direction from the base of the cliff about 300 feet, when
it is lost in the ocean. The pillars of which the Causeway consists
have been estimated at 30000; but that is too small a calculation.
These are of different dimensions; 15 to 36 feet in height, and from
15 to 26 inches in diameter, chiefly pentagonal or hexagonal; each
consists of joints or pieces concave and convex alternately at the
ends. The pillars are a species of basaltes and kind of close grit,
vitrifiable, of a dusky hue, contrasting finally with the surrounding
verdant scenery, and continued, with interruptions, two miles along
the precipitous shore. On the eastern side the Giant's Loom, a
colonnade of 36 feet in height; and on the opposite cliff may be seen
the Organ, so called from the resemblance to that instrument in the
group of columns: also the Giant's Well, Chair, and Theatre, with
the King and Parliament. Other objects of curiosity are,--the large
rounded masses of irregularly prismatic basalt between the causeways,
and the distinct globular concretions at Port Coon, a little to the
westward: the curious whyn dyke at the head of the grand causeway:
the generally romantic scenery of Port Noffer: then the cave of Port
Coon, celebrated for its fine echo, continually resounding to the dash
of the waves: the Cave of Dunkerry between Port Coon and the Bushfoot
Strand, accessible only from the ocean, between two mural ridges
of jet-black rock, with its lofty dome and sides overspread with a
covering of green _confervæ_, suggesting the idea that it might have
been scooped out of an emerald; a crimson zone of marine plants, five
or six feet in breadth, surrounds and adorns it; and its extent has
never yet been ascertained, its sides contracting into a narrow cleft
where no boat can penetrate, but where the waves are heard rolling to
a considerable distance.
GLENARM, 8 m. N. of Larne.--Castle of the Countess of Antrim, still
venerable and magnificent, and on the site of an ancient Abbey: from
the front is seen the Glen or Great Park 13 m. in circuit; extremely
romantic and beautiful; consisting of wood and broken rock, with
several waterfalls and salmon-leaps formed by a large serpentine river
winding through the grounds, whilst its banks are adorned with various
evergreens; myrtles, and the _arbutus_ or strawberry-tree almost
continually in blossom. From the park are fine views of the sea; a
distant prospect of the Abbey in ruins, and the scenery considerably
enriched by the singular appearance of the adjacent mountains, which
are cultivated in corn to their very summits. In its vicinity are many
rude antiquities, supposed to be of Danish origin.
See the GLENS on the borders of Red Bay, with the ruins of Red Castle,
7 m. N. of Glenarm. The scenery around is very romantic, the village
being secluded in a glen, where the limestone shores finely contrast
with the azure ocean. To the northward is the site of Dunmall, a
fortress where, tradition says, all the rent of Ireland was once paid;
but its only memorials are a mound and fosse with the fragments of
a wall. Beyond Garron Point see the curious grotesque rock called
Clough-i-stookin, of chalky whiteness, bearing a striking resemblance
to a female of gigantic stature: near it the ruins of a Castle on a
caverned cliff, the echoes in which are curious: also Torr Point.
On the beach near Glynn the _Anomia Gryphus_ and the _Vertebræ
pentacrinites_ are found in abundance in a blue lime. To the N. of it
stand the lofty and precipitous cliffs of Agnew's Hill, said to be the
loftiest hill in the county. The vicinity of this romantic spot has
been well described by Mr. Wakefield, who, on descending the hill to
Cushendall, beholding on the one hand a cultivated mountain, and on
the other a vale of rich land in a high state of tillage, declares
that upon the whole a more extended and more delightful prospect of
hill and dale intermixed in charming variety, is not often to be
seen. He adds, that from Cushendall to Glenarm, passing Red Bay and
coasting along the ocean, the whole way, the road exhibits the most
romantic and beautiful scenery. On the one hand magnificent and widely
extended views of the ocean, which on this coast rolls its swelling
waves towards the shore with a peculiar and dangerous rapidity; and
on the other, rocky mountains of considerable height, whose hanging
cliffs, as the road extends partly up their sides, seem to threaten
the traveller with destruction; and which in some places are thickly
clothed with woods, through the openings between which the eye is
sometimes surprised with the sight of a village as the road winds
round the spacious bays and jutting promontories.
LOUGH NEAGH is the largest lake of fresh water in Europe, with the
exception of Ladoga, Onega, and Geneva, being 20 m. by 12; and
the country round it being level, the furthest shores cannot be
distinguished from any part of its circumference; so that it resembles
an ocean, particularly in stormy weather, when the waves break
suddenly and are dangerous for boats. See Ram Island with its Round
Tower: inquire for Gems, Crystals, and Petrifactions. The ride from
Belfast, of about 16 m. is delightful; and nothing can be finer than
the view bursting on the tourist from the top of Mount Devis, whether
he contemplates Lough Neagh, or turns round to admire the extensive
prospect over the County Down and Irish Channel, towards the Isle of
Man, and even the distant mountains of Wales. Though this extensive
inland sea receives no less than eight rivers, yet the only outlet to
the whole collected mass of water is on the N.W. extremity, at Toom,
whence passing through a small lake, Lough Beg, it forms the river
Bann, which runs into the sea at Coleraine. The great disproportion
between the outlet and the influx has given rise to a conjecture
of subterraneous passages; but not the smallest indication of such
a phenomenon has yet been discovered,--so that the great means of
reduction must be by exhalation: to this it may be added, that in the
dry season the efflux is so trifling as to be waded at Toom, where it
is less than knee-deep; whilst on the other hand, in the wet season,
most of the rivers being mountainous, the influx is so sudden and so
greatly extensive, that 10,000 acres are often covered, which were
dry in summer. The geologist may also notice the well-authenticated
fact that, the Lough often interrupts its own course to the sea, by
the quantities of sand and gravel which it deposits in the channel:
all those impediments are frequently accelerated, though sometimes
removed, by the casual direction and force of the winds: hence the
dilatation and contraction have not been as yet reduced to any role;
but the fact is certain that its strongest tendency is towards
expansion, its actual encroachments being marked and known; for in one
place it has encompassed one Ch., (Ballyscullen) drowned great part of
the parish, and still seems gaining on the land. It must be remembered
that this Lough is perhaps the shallowest piece of water in the world
of such an extent, being no where deeper than 11 fathoms. The trade
carried on upon the Lough has of late years received considerable
additions from three navigable canals; one of which leads to Newry,
where a river runs into the sea at Carlingford; the second, through
Lisburn, gains the sea at Belfast; and the third takes a direction
westerly, for inland purposes. In stormy weather the waves break so
short and dash with such violence against the shoals at the foot of
Shane's Castle, that the spray is said often to have dashed into the
highest windows. In consequence of this, shipwrecks of the craft are
not unfrequent.
PLEASKIN.--A Cape a little to the E. of Giant's Causeway; the most
striking of all the semicircular precipices on this range of coast,
in the opinion of Dr. Drummond and the ingenious but unfortunate Dr.
Hamilton. In the sixteen different strata of which it is composed,
beauty and sublimity are wonderfully blended and harmonised. Over
a dark and rugged base fringed with incessant foam it lifts its
sides adorned with various tints of green gray lichen, and vermilion
rock, with a rapid declivity to about half its elevation, and thence
becomes perpendicular. On a stratum of red ochre at the elevation of
200 feet, stands a magnificent gallery of basaltic columns, 44 feet
in height, with others equally romantic; like a theatre of Nature
harmoniously arranged, rock upon rock, gallery upon gallery, so
magnificent, so solitary, and facing the wide Atlantic, as if formed
for the temple of "spirits from the vasty deep!"
LARNE, 8 m. N. from Carrickfergus,--worth notice for the fine scenery
round its harbour and vicinity. Redhall; Olderfleet, and various
ancient Castles in ruins; several Cromlechs on the E. side of Brown's
Bay, where is also the Giant's Cradle, a large stone so nicely
balanced that a small force will put it in motion, though the utmost
strength of many men cannot overturn it. See Ballygelly Promontory 3
m. with masses of prismatic basalt, where the pillars first commence:
to the W. ruins of Cairn Castle on an insulated rock; and the Salagh
Braes.
LISBURNE, 7 m. S.S.W. from Belfast.--Handsome, populous, and
extensive, on the Lagan. Handsome Ch.; large Market-house; several
neat Sectarian Chapels. Linen, diaper, and damask manufactories. 2 m.
N.E. Lambeg with curious damask-works, and numerous bleach-greens.
Near Lambeg numerous villas; Drum House and Ch.; Ballydrain, with lake
and grounds; and the Giant's Ring, with round tower.
RANDALSTOWN, 88 m. from Dublin, 3 m. N.W. from Antrim.--A thriving
town on the river Main. See Market-house and Assembly-rooms; also
the scenery of Lough Neagh 2 m. distant. 3-1/2 m. N. is Kells, a
pleasant village, with ruins of an ancient Ch.; 3 m. E. of which, the
dilapidated village, once the city of Connor and still an episcopal
see united to Down. See ruins of the Cathedral.
RATHLIN, or RAGHERY, a small island N. of Ballycastle.--See Doon
Point; also the Tumulus on a plain in the centre, with stone coffins.
The ruins of Bruce's Castle. Here also are seen optical aërial
illusions, like the _fata morgana_ in the Straits of Messina.
TEMPLE PATRICK, 10 m. N.W. from Belfast.--Road to Antrim, on which
route the tourist may enjoy some fine mountain scenery, including the
Bay of Carrickfergus, backed by the majestic mountains of Mourne.
Close to the village see Castle Upton, the castellated mansion of
Lord Templetown, with handsome park and mausoleum. 4 m. S.E. is the
rough fort, an ancient memorial of uncertain origin, but partly
Danish, perhaps partly Druidical; with wild scenery in its vicinity;
and on the road to Belfast is a complete chain of Danish raths.
MINERALS.
Basaltes:--along the coast from Belfast to Ballycastle.
Granite and porphyry:--in the glen between Devis and Collon mountains
near Belfast.
Limestone:--very frequent throughout the county.
Coal:--near Ballycastle; containing pyrites.
Sandstone, and aluminous layers:--near Ballycastle; containing evident
traces of zoophytes and other organic bodies.
Crystals:--very fine at Knocklaide mountain.
Calcedony variegated with marine plants:--frequent on the rocky shores.
Stalactites and tufa:--near Kinfane: also calcareous creeping stones
near the Glynns.
BOTANY.
_Alopecurus pratensis_:--in the levels near Lough Neagh.
_Dactylis glomerata_, Cock'sfoot Grass:--meadows near Lisburn.
_Festuca fluitans_, Float Fescue:--bogs and wet grounds in the S. and
W. parts of the county.
_Holcus lanatus_, White Grass:--springs up in turf bogs.
_Phleum pratense_, Timothy Grass:--Castle Dobbs and Island Magee.
_Plantugo_, Narrow-leaved Plantain:--to be met with in every field or
meadow.
_Poa aquatica_:--in the wettest bogs, where only it will grow.
_Rhinanthus_, Yellow Rattle:--on dry soils.
ARMAGH
Is an inland county; the northern part bordering on Lough Neagh,
consists of most extensive bogs of extraordinary depth and a remarkably
black soil, and thereby affords no scenery worth attention. But in the
immediate vicinity of the city of Armagh, the tourist is gratified
by a richer prospect, where an abundant population finds employment
in well inclosed and well cultivated fields. To the southward the
appearance deteriorates, especially in that part called the Fews; a
district of dark black mountains, where the hand of industry or the eye
of taste has scarcely yet penetrated. Yet it is well worthy the notice
of the picturesque tourist, from its alpine views, particularly round
Slieve Gullien, which rivals the loftiest in England or Wales. In the
vicinity of Armagh the soil is fertile, consisting generally of a rich
brown loam with limestone and limestone gravel, and the appearance of
the gently undulating grounds has been compared to eggs set in salt:
bounded on the S.W. by Monaghan; W. by Tyrone; N. by Lough Neagh; E.
by Down; S.E. by Louth. The two principal lakes are Carlough and Lough
Clay.
ARMAGH, 62 m. from Dublin, the metropolitan see of all
Ireland,--stands on the acclivity of a lofty mountain, the top
occupied by the Cathedral which forms a fine object. The place is
considerable; the new streets handsome. Archbishop's Palace adjoining
the town, a modern edifice of unadorned simplicity: barracks large,
airy, and even elegant: see the College; commodious Charter School:
New Ch. of white stone with handsome spire: Public Infirmary, Public
Library, and Observatory: curious market Cross. Examine improvements
of the late Archbishop, aided by the judicious exertions of the
present Primate. About 5 m. W. is Clonfeckle, on the borders of
Tyrone, deserving the notice of the agricultural tourist as the
residence and farm of Dr. Richardson, the cultivator of Fiorin grass.
(_Curwen's Letters_, vol. ii. p. 319.) Also Lisnadell, 5 m. S.
of Armagh: handsome Ch. and Glebe House, erected by the patriotic
Archbishop Robinson. About 10 m. S. is Newton Hamilton, stated in
tradition as the scene of a sanguinary battle between the great O'Neil
and a chieftain of Louth, in consequence of the latter singeing the
beard of his guest at a banquet, and in which O'Neil lost his life.
See also near to it remains of an old Cromwellian encampment: and
ruins of Black Bank Castle.
CHARLEMONT, 7 m. N. of Armagh.--A good town and military depôt. See
the fort and barracks.
JONESBOROUGH, a small village, but a good station for the visitant
of the wild mountain scenery in its vicinity, particularly Slieve
Gullien. Rocks, caverns, glyns, from a bold ascent, are the features
of the summit of this mountain, without the smallest appearance of
any calcareous matter; and although there have not hitherto, says Sir
C. Coote, been any minerals discovered here, yet there is a strong
probability of their existence from the metallic tinge of the waters
which burst from its sides, oozing in plentiful discharges even in
the driest seasons. On its summit is a cairn of stones which form the
roof of a cavern that at first view appears to be natural, but on
minute investigation has evident testimony of being the work of art.
The apartment is difficult of entrance, but is large within; and as
there is a flagged way to the edge of the lake at the foot, it seems
intended for other than sepulchral purposes. Sir C. Coote observes,
that perhaps a bolder prospect is not presented by any mountain in
Ireland than from its summit, comprising a great extent of country;
the lakes and streams, the several towns and well-cultivated demesnes,
together with the bay of Dundalk, where the declivity is terminated;
these, with a thousand other natural beauties which are presented
to view, will repay the fatigue of the ascent, and an awful and
impressive pleasure is afforded in contemplating the bold promontories
and rugged cliffs bared by the tempests, and arresting the floating
meteors, throughout furnishing ample resources for the inquisitive
philosopher.
LURGAN, about 14 m. N.E. from Armagh.--A large town, principally
of one extensive and neatly kept street; surrounded by the linen
manufacture, Ch. and Spire. See the house and handsome grounds of
the Brownlow family, with good views of Lough Neagh. The mansion, an
antique Castle.
MARKETHILL, a thriving town about 4 m. S.E. from Armagh, with good
Inn.--In the Fews a wild, barren, but romantic district, the admirers
of Dean Swift will be gratified in tracing many spots noticed by that
eccentric character; especially Hamilton's Bawn, Gosford Castle, and
Draper's Hill, about 1 m. distant. Throughout these wild and romantic
mountains there is something very interesting, awful, and grateful, to
the lover of nature, elevating the inquisitive mind, and inspiring a
strong desire to explore their inmost recesses, and a desire to become
familiar with so sublime a solitude. (_See further, Sir C. Coote's
Survey of County_, p. 35.)
PORTADOWN, 3 m. S. of Lurgan,--is a neat town on the Bann, at the
junction of the Newry canal with that river.
RICH HILL, about 4 m. N.E. from Armagh,--is a small village, but
deserves notice for the beautiful residence of Sir Capel Molyneux at
Castle Dillon, with extensive plantations, lakes, &c. and two handsome
columns in honour of St. Patrick and the volunteers of Ireland. The
appearance of the village itself is interesting, and considerably
improved by the elegant demesne of Mr. Richardson, in full view of
the street, with antique Castle. Proceed through a charmingly wooded
country towards the Church of Kilmore, and thence by good roads
to Loughgall village, where is Drummilly, an ancient mansion with
extensive plantations.
TANDERAGEE, 10 m. E. of Armagh,--affords good specimens of the linen
manufacture. Acton village, 5 m. S., the scene of many bloody contests
in the feudal times, especially at Points Pass; and near to it is
Scarvagh Pass on the borders of Down.
TYNAN, about 6 m. S.W. of Armagh,--stands pleasantly on an eminence
near a river of the same name. See excellent Ch. and lofty steeple:
also in the Church-yard an oblong stone of about 18 inches square and
4 feet long, set upon a large block stone, and capped with another,
divided into square compartments, and having vestiges of sculpture.
1 m. ruins of ancient Castle. About 6 m. S. Keady, a small village
on the river Callen, crowded with mills and bleach-greens. See the
handsome Ch., also the rich lead-mines.
MINERALS.
Lead:--in the vicinity of Tynan; rich ore.
Iron exists, at least in small quantities, as evinced by the chalybeate
springs in the mountainous districts.
Fossils are stated, in the _County Survey_, to be in great variety, as
yet little known, but affording ample investigation to the geologist.
BOTANY.
_Colchicum autumnale_, Meadow Saffron:--on the borders of the
Blackwater and Callen rivers.
_Euphrasia_, Eyebright:--in low grounds near the Lough.
_Hippuris_, Marestail:--at the mouth of the Bann.
_Iris_, or Flag:--on the banks of the river Callen.
_Lobelia Dortmanna_, Water Gladiole:--in Lough Neagh.
_Mentha aquatica_, Water Mint:--common in low grounds.
_Menyanthes_, Purple Buckbean:--beautiful specimens in various places.
_Nymphæa_, Water Lily (White and Yellow):--on the borders of Lough
Neagh, and in muddy ditches.
_Parnassia_, Grass of Parnassus:--on Tynan river.
_Phellandrium aquaticum_:--on the banks of Cushier and Blackwater
rivers.
_Potamogeton natans_, Pondweed:--in stagnant waters near Lough Neagh.
_Ranunculus_, Crowfoot:--in the marshy grounds.
_Scrophularia aquatica_, Water Figwort:--on the banks of Newry Water.
_Senecio paludosus_, Bird's Tongue:--in low marshes.
_Subularia aquatica_, Awlwort:--under the water in Lough Neagh.
_Thalictrum flavum_, Meadow Rue:--on the lake side near summit of
Slieve Gullien.
_Typha angustifolia_, Narrow-leaved Catstail:--very common.
CARLOW
Is a small county; interesting to the picturesque tourist from the
variety, if not from the sublimity of its scenery; but even in that
he may be gratified whilst rambling amidst the mountainous chain from
Mount Leinster to Blackstairs on the S., a district awfully grand and
majestic, and the range impassable except at Scullogh Gap, resembling
the Ghauts or passes in the mountains of India. In the western part of
the county also, on the banks of the Barrow, the rugged mountainous
range is beautifully fringed with timber, even to the summits of
some of its loftiest hills, agreeably chequered by cultivation, and
studded with the mansions of opulence, whose snow-white chimneys
peeping through the foliage give earnest of the national hospitality
that reigns amongst them. Indeed all writers agree, that some of the
most beautiful and picturesque scenery in Ireland is to be met with
in this division of the county and around the town of Carlow. It is a
curious remark of Mr. Wakefield respecting this county, that it has
neither a temporal nor spiritual peer resident within it; and yet,
though destitute of manufactures, it is tenanted by more wealthy people
than almost any other county in the island. It is worthy of remark
also, that the fee has been transferred more here than in any other
part of the country, and that a great part of it belonged formerly to
Quakers. Bounded on the N. by Kildare, E. by Wicklow and Wexford, S. by
Kilkenny, W. by Queen's County.
CARLOW, 39 m. from Dublin,--is a neat and flourishing town, well
situated for inland commerce on the river Barrow. Wakefield describes
it as abounding with "houses of entertainment, for almost every shop
has attached to it a house which is used as an inn." Examine its
Woollen manufactures: some slight remains of its ancient Castle,
which recently fell, a mere heap of ruins: the venerable old Ch.,
from the vicinity of which is a very extensive view, commanding a
fertile and well wooded country enlivened by the majestic windings
of the river Barrow: ruins of the very fine Abbey founded before the
English conquest: the Roman Catholic College, an extensive building,
with good gardens and a park for the students' recreation, with the
Gaol, Barracks, &c. Miss Plumptre says, that "Carlow is superior
to most towns in the kingdom in the neatness of its appearance:"
and Hall says that "the ground about it is better improved than in
many parts of England." The town and immediate vicinity present some
historical recollections; and though the English tourist may not be
much interested in the disputes of the Earls of Kildare and Thomond,
and the predatory exploits of O'More; yet events of a later date,
connected with its siege by Ireton in the civil wars, may lead to
inquiry and investigation. It was also the scene of a sanguinary
battle, though on a small scale, in the year 1798, being assaulted
by the rebels before day-break, and successfully defended by a small
party of military and the loyal yeomanry. The visitor will not omit
the pleasing domain of Mr. Cavanagh, in the immediate vicinity, from
whence the Blackstairs mountains form a striking object; though not
lofty, yet bold, bleak, and rugged. Mr. Curwen speaks highly of
the scenery in the vale between Carlow and Leighlin Bridge, with
enchanting and extensive prospects over a rich country of the most
sublime and picturesque features. This valley is about six miles
in breadth, bounded on each side by a chain of mountains finely
wooded, well inclosed, and cultivated to their summits. Villages
and gentlemen's seats to be seen on all sides, with whitewashed
cottages well sheltered by trees, and presenting a pleasing air of
rural comfort and industry. See Ardglass, 4 m. N., a high green hill,
from whence there is a most enchanting prospect of the county, and
also Kildare. On its summit is an ancient Catholic Chapel, built in
form of a cross, but much resembling a dilapidated barn: read some
justly-flattering epitaphs to the Grace family, not badly written.
At Kellystown, on the east bank of the Barrow, extensive ruins of a
Ch. said to have been first erected by St. Patrick. At Staplestown
2 m. S.E. a pleasing mansion of Mr. Bagnall, once intended to rival
Versailles, the grounds owing much both to nature and art, and watered
by the romantic little river Burrin.
LEIGHLIN BRIDGE,--is a small village about 8 m. S. of Carlow, with
remains of an ancient Castle and some monastic ruins, which have also
been castellated. The view from the bridge with the Black Castle at
one end is very fine, though the bridge itself is more venerable
than picturesque; built in 1320, by a liberal canon of Kildare. The
course of the river Barrow presents views of great fertility and
beauty, though certainly not so romantic as many smaller streams. See
Bally Ellen Castle in ruins about 8 m. S.; also Ballylaghan Castle,
which presents a gateway between two lofty circular towers, in the
style of Tunbridge Castle. Though the castle stands low, yet the
view to the westward is very fine; and, as its walls are in pretty
good preservation, it affords an amusing object of research to the
antiquary, who may ascend some ruinous staircases into several of
the apartments, and gratify his fancy by the recollection of past
times. Ballymorn Castle, 5 m. distant, is an extensive ruin standing
in a deep vale surrounded by lofty mountains. It is of the middle
ages, but has Gothic windows in the interior, and has the peculiarity
of its outer walls being perforated by a gallery from whence the
garrison could discharge their missiles through numerous loop-holes.
Only one large tower remains. Clonmore is an extensive and pleasing
ruin, presenting a good idea of the arrangements, half military half
domestic, of the earlier times, though unroofed and much dilapidated,
but rendered venerable by the covering of thick ivy that mantles its
walls, affording shelter to the birds of night. Fenough, 9 m. S.E.,
has an old Castle near the church, once a residence of the kings of
Leinster. Garryhaddon, 2 m. N.E., a deserted mansion of the Ormond
family, has an appearance of ancient magnificence, with an extensive
park and gardens. Whilst the picturesque tourist is rambling through
the Carlow mountains, he will not omit visiting a deep recess in the
Slieumargah, where stand the remains of the Abbey of Old Leighlin,
recorded in the earliest monastic legends, but now exhibiting no
remnants of architecture anterior to the 12th century, when it was
re-edified, after destruction by fire about the time of the Norman
conquest. Here was once a celebrated episcopal city; but the ruins of
the Abbey, of which the cathedral is still kept in decent repair as
a parish Ch., alone remain. The Abbey, though not very extensive, is
deserving of notice on account of its pinnacled spire and the rich
tracery of its Gothic windows, being about the time of Hen. II. or at
least re-edified after a destructive fire; but suffered to sink into
ruin since the union of the Sees of Leighlin and Ferns. On the west
side of the Ch. under some trees, see the once celebrated well of St.
Laferian, now nearly filled up, and near it a rude stone cross. The
antiquary will also find subjects of research in some old termini
or stones of memorial erected by Bishop Harlewin about 1216, as
boundaries of the liberties of the ancient city; one of these is close
by Leighlin Bridge, another near Wells, and a third on the mountains.
Ledwich gives a good engraving in his _Antiquities_. The antiquary
will derive some pleasure from a visit to a small village, St.
Mullins, about 15 m. S.E. from Leighlin Bridge and agreeably seated
on the Barrow. This place, particularly its extensive burial-ground,
possesses much sanctity in the opinions of the lower Irish, from its
antiquity, having been founded as early as the 7th century by a saint
of the name, who built the church here and was bishop of Ferns. This
episcopal eremite long inhabited the gloomy vale of Glendaloch, was
a great patriot, causing the remission of a tax of oxen, and a great
prophet also. The ruins, though not very extensive, are picturesque,
and the whole scene one of solemn meditation, backed by the lofty
mountains of Blackstairs.
TULLOW, 10 m. E. of Carlow.--A pleasant town on the Slaney. Bridge
of six arches: close to it ruins of an Abbey: Castle converted into
barracks: neat Ch. and Market-house:--taken by Cromwell after a
sanguinary siege. Hackets Town, about 7 m. N.E., a small neat village,
the scene of two violent assaults by the rebels in 1798. Mount
Leinster, about 8 m. S., deserves the sportsman's notice, for its
hares, foxes, and grouse; also a well said to be unfathomable, and
much resorted to for medicinal purposes.
MINERALS.
Limestone in great abundance.
BOTANY.
Hitherto uninvestigated.
CAVAN.
CAVAN, though an inland district, possesses more water scenery and
more diversified than any other in the island, with the exception of
Kerry; for here the tourist meets with many beautiful and picturesque
landscapes enlivened by small lakes, in some places spreading into
expanse, in others assuming the form of rivers, proceeding from the
lakes of Westmeath in their course to Lough Erne. The general face of
the county consists of eminences, which, though not very lofty, yet
rugged and uneven, afford a great variety of prospect, and swell into
mountains on the borders of Fermanagh and Leitrim. This county came
very late into civilization or even cultivation, being one of the most
celebrated in the ancient feuds and wars for its fastnesses, woods,
bogs, and all the natural impediments so formidable in warfare. It is
exactly midway between the Atlantic Ocean and St. George's Channel; but
its extremes are not more than 14 m. distant from the sea:--the tourist
will find the roads rather indifferent. Bounded on the N. by Fermanagh
and Monaghan, E. by Westmeath, S. by Longford, W. by Leitrim.
BELTURBET, about 8 m. N.W. of Cavan; built upon an eminence above the
river Erne, on which there is much romantic scenery.--See the Tower
and Market-house, and some vestiges of an ancient fortification beyond
the church. Ballyconnel, 5 m. W., is a good station for head-quarters
in viewing this end of Lough Erne. Examine Ortnacullagh mountain
for minerals and spars. Ballyhayes, though only a common village,
possesses some antique and fantastical buildings that show it to have
once been a place of considerable note. The Mansion-house is a curious
specimen of Irish feudal splendour. Near it the poor but enchantingly
situated village of Butler's Bridge. Drumlane Priory, 3 m. from
Belturbet, is now little more than a large barn used as a church, but
of considerable antiquity, being founded as early as the 6th century;
though it is probable that the oldest part now remaining is the round
tower which stands close to one corner of the sacred edifice. It was
dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and long of great sanctity as a place of
sepulture; but perhaps more remarkable in its being the birth-place of
St. Maidoc, a celebrated legendary personage, respecting whose parents
these holy legends are wisely silent.
CAVAN, 54 m. N.W. from Dublin.--Sir Rich. C. Hoare describes it
as situated in a vale near a small river, and making but a poor
appearance as a county town. See the Court-house and Barracks.
Ballyhedy Bridge, about 3 m. distant, crosses the Erne, in a pleasing
country surrounded by beautiful mansions and highly improved demesnes.
Near it see Farnham, the mansion of Earl Farnham, which Wakefield
considers as one of the finest and best kept demesnes in the island.
It affords abundance of views intermixed with some lake scenery;
and the cottage at Killishandra not far distant, together with one
called Lady Farnham's, an elegant retreat on the border of a small
lake, are well worth seeing. At the latter in particular, the scenery
is exceedingly romantic, the sides of the hills being covered with
waving trees approaching close to the level of the water. Notice
the pleasing views on the river Croghan; also the neat Ch. with the
ruins of an old Castle on the western bank: also the richly wooded
demesne of Castle Sanderson, with the spacious lake and grounds
of Cloverhill, and the new mansion of Castle Hamilton. Visit the
mountain of Bruce Hill. Kilmore, 2 m. S.W., is remarkable for the
smallest Cathedral in the empire, being nothing but the parish
church: near it is Lough Outer, where stand the ruins of an ancient
Castle on a small island, remarkable as the prison of the good Bishop
Bedell, during the rebellion of 1641. Sir C. Coote observes (in his
Survey of the County), that the many beautiful islands encircled by
this charming lake are crowned with the finest timber, which their
undulating surface presents to view in a variety of shades; and their
deep recesses and romantic scenery strongly picture to the mind the
aptitude of these sequestered islands for the superstitious rites
which formerly were celebrated there.
COOTEHILL, about 9 m. N.E. of Cavan,--is a smart well-built town,
and shows the advantages resulting from the introduction of the linen
manufacture. It contains nothing very remarkable; but is a good
station for several objects in its vicinity. Baillieborough is 9 m.
S.E., close to which is a pleasant lough; also a chalybeate spring.
The view from the Ch. is good; and on the summit of a hill, between
it and King's Court, is a pool long celebrated for its antiscorbutic
qualities, the patients bathing in it and rubbing their bodies with
the mud. It well deserves the notice of the geologist and the medical
tourist. Bellamont Forest, the family seat of the Bellamonts, uniting
with Dawson's Grove, forms a tract of romantic scenery that must not
be neglected by the picturesque traveller. The views from it are very
fine; and Bruce Hill is a most striking feature in the scenery. King's
Court is a modern creation, rising fast into a thriving town, clearly
exemplifying what may be done by a patriotic landlord. In its vicinity
are several deep glens and valleys, within which flow rapid streams
affording many romantic and interesting scenes. See ruins of Castle at
Muff. Shircock, about 7 m. E., has some lakes in its neighbourhood.
About 2 m. S. visit a narrow glen, in which the mineralogist will find
much amusement. Specimens of coal and other fossils.
DALYS BRIDGE, about 12 m. S.E. from Cavan,--is a neat village, with
several pleasing objects in its vicinity. Shaalan Lake, or Lough
Shecklin, deserves a visit, being 7 m. long and 4 broad in some
places; studded on the north side with gentlemen's cottages used as
sporting-boxes, and extremely well planted: whilst on its southern
verge, amidst lofty hills and fertile cornfields, may be seen the
ruins of the ancient Castle of Ross, with the high hill or Ben of
Fore. On an island are the ruins of an Abbey.
SWADLINBAR, a neat village about 18 m. N.W. from Cavan,--has long
been celebrated for its Spa, containing sulphur, earth, sea salt, and
fossil alkali, being alterative and diaphoretic. Near it are the ruins
of a Ch.; and a little further, but in Fermanagh, is the splendid
mansion of Florence Court, a seat of the E. of Enniskillin. See and
examine Quilca mountain, with its iron mines, and a spring of good
water on its summit: its general appearance is very grand, overhanging
the valley in towering magnificence. The tourist will here be amused
with many legendary tales of feudal times, of sprites and faëry. Its
summit was the ancient place of investiture for the MacGwyres, once
the petty kings of this district.
VIRGINIA, 12 m. S.E. of Cavan,--is a small village, and in the
immediate vicinity of Lough Ramor, of great extent, studded with
islands once clothed with foliage but now denuded, yet still
possessing the ruins of several old Castles.
MINERALS.
Lead and copper mines in the town land of Mayo: also coal, various
ochres, manganese, spar, a species of jasper, iron, and some limestone.
In Quilca mountain is a very rich iron mine; and in Ortnacullagh
mountain, near Ballyconnel, lead and silver ores, pure sulphur,
fullers' earth, white and red transparent spars, and slate quarries,
with some indications of coal. There are mineral waters also at
Derrylester; sulphureous at Derrindaff; alkaline at Owen Bruin; and
also at Carrickmore. At Cootehill are rich veins of copper ore and
pyrites.
BOTANY.
_Cicuta virosa_, Long-leaved Water Hemlock:--in watery places.
_Myrica Gale_, Gale, Sweet Willow, or Dutch Myrtle:--near rivers.
_Spergula arvensis_, Small Spurrey:--in sandy places.
CLARE.
This county lies N. of the Shannon, containing also another river, the
Fergus, and possessing great capabilities from its maritime situation.
Its bays and harbours are numerous; but its coast is dangerous,
consisting principally of basaltic cliffs, which frown destruction on
the unhappy mariner who may be caught upon its lee shore. It is in most
parts mountainous, yet deficient in woody landscape; but the barony of
Burrin N. of Kilfernora is replete with rude magnificence; whilst the
lake and river scenery offers many beauties to the painter: bounded
on the S.E. by Limerick, W. by the Atlantic, N. by Galway Bay, E. by
Galway and Tipperary, and is nearly insulated by the Shannon and the
Ocean.
CLARE is a small town 4 m. from Ennis.--See the Abbey, extensive in
its ground plan and still venerable in decay, particularly a square
lofty tower lately in good preservation: it is of high antiquity,
having been founded as early as the 12th century by O'Brien, King of
North Munster, but was taken from St. Peter and St. Paul by Henry
VIII. and given to an ancestor of the Thomond family. The scene of
many sanguinary feudal battles in the 13th century. Ruins of an old
Castle 1 m. distant.
ENNIS is the shiretown, and 112 m. W. from Dublin.--Curwen observes,
that the approach to the town is delightful, on account of the
apparent comfort of the lower classes; the town itself neat and
thriving. See the neat modern Ch. surmounted by the ruins of the
venerable Abbey, one of the finest in Ireland, whose long narrow
windows, divided by stone railing, with the remnants of some delicate
carving and other architectural ornaments, are considered by Grose
as speaking its era, and the expense bestowed upon it in the 13th
century. See also the handsome Charity School. About 8 m. W. is
Callan mountain, where the antiquary may examine the tombstone, with
the Ogham inscription on Conan the Swift-footed, whose death and
burial-place are recorded in an historical tale supposed to have been
written by Ossian in the year 296. See also the Druidical altar on the
S. side of the mountain. Between Ennis and Lough Derg is Dromoland,
the venerable and antique mansion of the O'Briens, baronets. Crusheen,
5 m. N.E., has the ruins of an ancient Castle nearly surrounded by a
lake. Quin Abbey is 5 m. E., romantic and presenting a good portrait
of monastic times, with sombre cloisters, private passages, ruined
chapels, ancient monuments, and sainted statues. Near it is Spancel
Hill; Castle in ruins; 5 m. from which see Tulla Castle.
KILFENORA, 12 m. N.W. of Ennis, is on the borders of the romantic
district of Burrin. See the ancient Cathedral, with its numerous
sanctified and heraldic ornaments: statue of St. Fechnan the founder,
in the choir; seven crosses of a single stone each, with antique
sculpture. Corcomroe Abbey, a few miles to the S.W., was the scene
of many feudal battles between the O'Connors and O'Briens, of which
there are some monuments. Near it is Ennistymond, a pleasant village,
several Castles in ruins, particularly Inchiquin and Moyvore. The
tourist must not omit the extensive and astonishing prospect from
Hagshead, 1300 feet above the level of the ocean, exhibiting some
of the grandest scenes of nature: near it were wrecked part of the
Spanish Armada.
KILLALOE, 20 m. E. of Ennis,--stands in a hilly country on the
Shannon, which rolls rapidly over an irregular bed of rock. A bridge
of 18 arches leads to the town, after which the ascent is steep; but
the Cathedral stands at the bottom close to the river, and lately
fitted up in a modern style. The southern portal, North Chapel, is a
most curious and well sculptured specimen of rich Gothic architecture,
of a grotesque and irregular design, and, though evidently a doorway,
has been considered by some persons as a monument. The font has some
curious arabesque ornaments. See the Oratory, a curious specimen of
the religious architecture of the Ostmen in the 9th century, and one
of the oldest structures of wood and stone in the island. Its rude
walls are not very high, but the gables are pyramidal and lofty; and a
small room is still pretty entire, where devotees have long resorted
to offer prayers and religious bribes to the patron saint, St. Molva.
See the Salmon Fishery and Eel Weir. Whilst in this vicinity, visit
Lough Derg, and notice the bay of Skariff with a wooded peninsula,
and island of 20 acres called Holy Island, on which are a round tower
70 feet high, and the ruins of seven churches. See also the demesne
of Mr. Parker at Castle Lough, which affords to the artist a series
of extensive and charming views. Some caverns of limestone rock at
Mitchel's Town. At Cancora see the earth-works of the ancient palace
of the kings of Thomond, first erected by the famous Brian Boroimhe.
O'Brien's Bridge, a village on the banks of the Shannon, with a
bridge of 14 arches; sometimes called Montpellier, on account of its
medicinal springs of a sulphureous nature, much frequented by company
in the season. The country round not very picturesque, but improving
in cultivation, with many genteel residences: yet if the traveller in
his route from Killaloe to Limerick takes the road by Castle Connel,
which however is rather a detour, he will be amply gratified by
the interesting scenery. In the vale 2-1/2 m. from the springs, is
Coolastigue Castle in ruins; a little further Rhin Row Castle; and
beyond that Castle Troy, all emblems of the devastations of war and
time. Nearer to Limerick stands Mount Shannon, the seat of Lord Clare.
KILRUSH, about 22 m. W. of Ennis, and towards the mouth of the
Shannon,--has nothing remarkable, but forms a station for many
surrounding objects of curiosity. Towards Buncragy is a magnificent
prospect from the summit of a hill, called Paradise, looking up as
high as Limerick. Near it is the picturesque island of Canna with
ruins of an Abbey. Carrigaholt, about 15 m. W., has some remains
of an old Castle, of which many legendary tales are in existence.
Iniscattery Island, towards the mouth of the Shannon, contains the
ruins of 7 churches out of 11 erected by St. Senanus, a disciple of
St. Patrick; also a round tower 120 feet high. In monastic times the
fair sex were excluded from this island: near it is Miltown Malbay, a
watering place coming into fashion; its vicinity most interesting to
the geologist: where see the Puffing Hole, a curious cavern pervious
to the ocean, which exhibits various extraordinary phænomena.
SIXMILE BRIDGE, 15 m. E. of Ennis,--has nothing curious in itself; but
see the seat of Mount Jevers, and 2 m. distant the ruins of the once
famous Castle of Bunratty.
MINERALS.
Iron evidently exists in many parts of the county; as there are many
chalybeate springs, particularly Ballykett, Fierd, and Monmore, in
the western district: also manganese; some indications of coal; black
limestone near the mouth of the Shannon; and the earths would doubtless
repay the investigation of the mineralogist.
BOTANY.
_Adiantum Capillus Veneris_, True Maiden Hair:--on the rocky mountains
of Burrin.
_Arundo arenaria_, Sea Matweed:--on the sandy beaches.
_Asclepias Vincetoxicum_, (Lin.) Swallow Wort:--on the rocky mountains
of Burrin.
_Butomus umbellatus_, Flowering Rush:--in the vicinity of Clare and
Correfin.
_Crithmum maritimum_, Samphire:--on sea cliffs.
_Dryas octopetala_, Mountain Avens:--found in Burrin on the limestone
mountains in abundance, where scarce any other vegetable will exist.
_Gentiana verna_, Spring Gentian:--on limestone gravelly soils near
Galway Bay.
_Juniperus communis_, Juniper:--in mountainous districts.
_Ricinus communis_, (Lin.) _Palma Christi_, or Greater Spurge:--in
Burrin.
_Rubus saxatilis_, Stone Bramble:--in the woods of Cratulagh.
_Satureja montana_, (Lin.) Winter Savory:--on the mountains of Burrin.
_Saxifraga granulata_, White Sengreen or Saxifrage:--in dry meadows and
pastures in Burrin.
_Senecio saracenicus_, Broad-leaved Ragwort:--near Corfin.
_Spiræa Filipendula_, Dropwort:--in Burrin barony.
_Teucrium Chamæpitys_, Ground Pine:--in the rocky mountains of Burrin.
CORK
Is the largest county in the kingdom, and is said to possess more good
and more bad land than any other. The vales fertile; well watered
with numerous rivulets: maritime also, and having a great extent of
sea-coast broken into numerous excellent harbours. Its scenery affords
great variety to the tourist, especially in the S.W. district, where a
range of lofty mountains extend to the ocean on the borders of Dunmanus
Bay. The general surface is indeed rugged and broken, but not so as to
impede agricultural labour, except in some districts, and even there
they extend cultivation by burning turf fires on the rocks, after which
they pour cold water on them and split them readily--a fact which seems
to throw some light upon Hannibal's passage of the Alps. Some of the
bogs in winter are impassable, especially on the N.W.; yet even these
are grazed in summer by immense herds of cattle. Miss Plumptre states
that a number of new roads are now making in all parts of the county,
which will much accommodate the tourist. It is bounded on the N.E. by
Waterford, N. by Tipperary and Limerick, N.W. by Kerry, the remainder
by the ocean.
BALTIMORE, 43 m. from Cork, has a good harbour; but having been
plundered and burnt by the Algerines in 1631, is become a mean
village. The country round it is rude and romantic, and there are
many ancient Castles in decay. The tourist may from hence visit Cape
Clear, the southernmost point of Ireland, on an island, where see
ruins of Dunanore Castle, with the Cave and ruined Ch. of St. Kieran.
Skibbereen, 5 m. from Baltimore, is described by Miss Plumptre as
improving in its appearance. See Market-house and Ch.; also the ruins
of Abbey Showery with ancient tombs.
BANDON, 12 m. S.W. of Cork,--is in a district not very interesting;
it is extensive but ill built. See Castle Bernard, 1 m. W., also
Dundanere Castle, and the chalybeate spring. Inishonan, a village,
with a linen manufactory and bleach-greens. Miss Plumptre praises
the scenery in the dell in which it stands, with good bridge, wooded
slopes backed by the Ch., and venerable ruin of an ancient Castle.
BANTRY, about 35 m. W. of Cork,--is situated on one of the finest
bays in the world, and was noted by the defeat of the French squadron
in 1796. The scenery amidst the mountains in which this town is
embosomed, Mr. Wakefield thinks scarcely, if at all, exceeded by any
other in the island, with the exception of Killarney. The views in all
directions are bold, wild, and romantic; especially towards the head
of the bay, which is mountainous, and abounding with scenes as rude
and wild as imagination can paint or fancy anticipate. Miss Plumptre
also describes it as highly worthy the notice of the picturesque
tourist; and Mr. Wakefield observes, that the ride to Coolranny Bridge
he thinks one of the most delightful that can be conceived. The ascent
from that place to the Gowl mountains is very fine, from the gap of
which the whole bay appears in its full extent, with lofty mountains
on the opposite shore, and Cape Clear in the distant prospect rising
above them all. Near this is Hungray Hill, 700 yards above the bay,
being 20 miles from Bantry, but amply repaying by the most extensive
prospect from its summit, whilst the falls of water down its sides in
the winter season are extremely grand. But the greatest charm in the
vicinity of Bantry is Glengariff, the road to which runs through some
fine mountain scenery, and near it is the modern mansion of Mr. White,
surrounded by extensive woods and standing on the edge of one of the
finest indentations of the bay, perfect in its form and embosomed at
the foot of lofty mountains: much of the surrounding beauty arises
from the luxuriant foliage of arbutus, holly, and birch; whilst every
turn opens a new glen, everywhere presenting varied and enchanting
scenery, beautifully contrasted by the wildness of the opposite
mountains. It is not a trifling addition to the amenity of this spot,
that the mildness of the winter only strips the deciduous trees of
their leaves for a very short time, whilst geraniums and myrtles, and
many of the tenderest plants actually remain unsheltered during the
whole year. Dursey Island in the bay has the ruins of a Castle. The
Priest's Leap is a mountainous pass leading over Mangerton towards
Killarney.
CASTLE LYONS, 15 m. N.E. of Cork.--A well built town in an agreeable
vale on the banks of the Bride river. See Lord Barrymore's mansion
erected on the ruins of O'Lehan's Castle; also ruins of a Franciscan
Abbey, 1307. Near it Kilrea Castle in ruins, to the E. of which the
venerable remains of an Abbey dedicated to St. Bridgid, about 1450,
with ancient tombs and numerous awful indications of mortality.
CASTLEMARTYR, 16 m. from Cork, a large manufacturing town.--See
the ruins of the ancient Castle, and the seat and grounds of the
Boyle family: the house itself is worth seeing, being antique and
assimilating well with the richly clad wild remains of an ancient
castle, whose venerable turrets in majestic ruin peep forth from
the thick foliage at a short distance; add to this an extensive
sheet of water, which gives life to the surrounding scenery. Let the
botanical tourist pay particular attention to the flower-garden and
green-houses, elegantly arranged under the taste and genius of the
Countess of Shannon. Visit Ballycotton Bay, with extensive strand,
good wild fowl shooting and excellent flat- and shell-fish. See there
the Ch. and Castle of Ballycrenane. About 1 m. S.E. is the river Dour,
which breaks out from a limestone rock, after a subterraneous course
of near half a mile, and forms a small lake, where the Halcyon or
Kingsfisher is found in great numbers: Charleville, 14 m. N. of Cork,
on the borders of Limerick; see Charter School, Ch. and Barracks. The
magnificent seat of the Earls of Orrery was burnt down in the wars of
the Revolution by the Duke of Berwick after dinner, like the ancient
Persepolis.
CLOGHNAKILTY, 22 m. S.W. of Cork,--is seated on a shoal and dangerous
bay. See the plain neat Ch. pleasingly situated, but the town is
described by Miss Plumptre as poor and dirty. Dundedy or Galway Head
has some curious caves worn out by the sea, also ruins of an old
Castle. Iniskean, about 8 m. N., has close to it the ruins of Kinigh
Ch. with remarkable round tower, a hexagon at the bottom and the upper
part round, 70 feet high and 124 feet from the Ch. At Temple Bryan,
1 m. distant, are some remains of an ancient Temple; near the Ch. a
stone circle with central pyramidal pillar, and two other pyramids
in the immediate vicinity. At Timoleague, about 5 m. E., see ruins
of O'Shaughnessy's Castle, and the extensive remains of a venerable
Franciscan Abbey, 1350, with numerous tombs of Irish chieftains,
Gothic cloisters, and romantic ruins of the ancient monastic
apartments: see also the Holy Well.
CLOYNE, about 16 m. from Cork.--See the Cathedral; the Bishop's
Palace; a small Castle of the Fitzgeralds; a round tower near the Ch.;
a Danish rath, and a deep extensive cave in a park near the town. 1
m. W. at Castle Mary, the seat of Lord Longueville, see the Druids'
altar, a large stone 15 feet in length, 8 in breadth, and 9 feet
from the ground. In the vicinity the mineralogist will find a white
substance tinged with yellow ochre, which does not effervesce with
acids, but forms a good white paint if mixed with linseed oil. Here
also are quarries of fine gray marble. 2 m. W. is Rostellan, the seat
of the Marquis of Thomond, with a fine view of Cork harbour, and built
on the ruins of an ancient Castle. To the S.W. see Corkbeg, a modern
seat with some ecclesiastical ruins near it. The tourist may also
proceed to the strand of Ballycroneen to visit an ancient pillar on a
hill; also Lascally, a strong moted Danish encampment; Bally Kendrick
Castle, &c.
CORK, the second city of Ireland, is 124 m. S.W. of Dublin.--Sir
Rich. C. Hoare describes it as affording more interest to the
commercial than the antiquarian tourist; and Miss Plumptre observes
that it is upon the whole recommendable to the eye only as having a
general appearance of comfort and prosperity, not as offering any
particular subjects to dwell upon. Mr. Curwen indeed views it with a
more favourable notice, and finds many things to approve. Seated on
the river Lea, the old town rising on a hill forms an amphitheatre;
in the new town some of the streets are spacious, well-built,
and handsome. See the Cathedral partly modernized; the Parade, a
spacious street with equestrian statue of Geo. II.; the Exchange;
Custom House; Botanic Garden belonging to the Literary Institution;
Barracks; extensive Porter Brewery; manufactories of Paper, Glass,
and Cloth; Market House, &c. The environs are thickly studded with
mercantile villas, and present views of happy amelioration. See
at Ballyvacadane, 4 m. from Cork, a ruined Abbey; and Ballincolly
Castle built upon a rock. Barrymore Island in the bay deserves the
notice of the geologist from the circumstance of having a stratum
of limestone running through it, although nothing but a red gritty
stone exists upon the main land in its vicinity. Blarney Castle, 3 m.
distant, must not be forgotten by the tourist. It stands on a bold
romantic rock, its walls 18 feet thick, and bore a long siege at the
Revolution, but was taken by King William's troops. Part only of the
ancient Castle remains, but with modern additions. Those who please
may kiss the well-known stone on the summit of the tower, and acquire
a perpetual license for flattery and fiction. Carigrohan Castle to
the W. has still some remains on a high precipice over the river. The
tourist may visit Cove, and the Giant's Stairs, a curious natural
production. The marine views in an aquatic excursion to Cork Harbour
are very fine; the whole of it is indeed surrounded by stations which
command the most beautiful and diversified prospects. If approaching
it direct from the sea, the grand panorama which opens to the view in
sailing up the narrow entrance, has a most striking effect: on the
right Cork Beg, a seat of the Fitzgeralds, with some Abbey ruins;
beyond it the woods of Rostellan, the seat of the Marquis of Thomond;
then Haulbowling Island, and the lofty hills to the left, forming
altogether a grand and impressive scene. Glanmire, 5 m. distant, is a
beautiful glen on a narrow arm of the sea, with neat village and Ch.
and good view of the harbour. At Monkstown see the fine old Castle on
a wooded eminence.
DONERAILE, about 16 m. N. of Cork,--has a neat Ch. with lofty spire;
see the Barracks on ruins of the old Castle; also some quarries of
variegated marble near to it. See ruins of Castletown Roche, gallantly
defended by Lady Roche against Cromwell's forces; also Carrigrocunny
Castle and romantic ruins of an ancient Abbey at Bridgetown. Castle
Saffron, 1 m. E., has several agreeable cascades on the river.
Kilcoleman Castle in ruins, 2 m. N.W., will always be interesting
to the lover of ancient British poetry, as the spot where Spenser
wrote his Faëry Queen. The scenery is magnificent, and the prospect
extensive. Monanimy, about 7 m. S., has the ruins of an old Castle and
Abbey.
FERMOY, a newly built elegant town of four streets crossing each
other at right angles, the work of a Scotch gentleman, Mr. Anderson,
is about 15 m. N.E. of Cork; with a bridge of 13 arches mantled with
ivy. See the extensive barracks; modern Ch.; ruins of ancient Castles
in its vicinity. See Ballyhooly, a picturesque village; also Castle
Hyde, a seat well wooded; and ruins of Creg Castle. Miss Plumptre and
Mr. Curwen speak highly of the patriotic improvements in this town and
vicinity.
KINSALE, 12 m. S. of Cork,--has a spacious harbour, and has been
noted from the earliest times in Irish history. It was taken by the
Spaniards in 1600, and stood a siege by the Duke of Marlborough in
James's wars. See some remains of ruined Abbeys in the town: visit
also Charles Fort, 1 m. E. in 1670. The picturesque tourist may visit
the Old Head, 4 m. S., with Light-house, and ruins of Duncearma
Castle, the old seat of Irish kings.
KILWORTH, a thriving town about 20 m. N.E. of Cork,--has some good
mountain scenery in its vicinity. Near it is Moorfield, the superb
residence of Lord Mount Cashel, also ruins of Cloughleagh Castle.
MACROOM, about 16 m. W. of Cork.--See ancient Castle built by King
John, still inhabited; also the handsome Ch. In the river Sillane the
sportsman will find good trout-fishing. At Agh-a-bollogue, see old Ch.
and Holy Well, with the stone called St. Olan's Cap, about which are
many superstitious and legendary tales. At Ballyvourney, 6 m. W., see
ruins of Ch. with stone Cross and Holy Well. At Carig-a-drohid, 3 m.
E., ruins of Castle on steep romantic rocks; and at Carrigafouky, 2
m. W., ancient ruins of MacCarty's Castle on a wild craggy precipice,
with remains of a Druidical altar. Dunda Rock, 6 m. S., has a lofty
Castle commanding a most extensive prospect. Glyncaum, or the crooked
Glyn, is a deep hollow way between steep craggy rocky walls covered
with forest trees and shrubby foliage, to the S. of which see ruins of
Magshanagloss Castle. Gougenabera, 5 m. N., on the road from Cork to
Killarney, presents most romantic scenery round the wild solitude of
its secluded lake. Near it is Inchigeela, which offers considerable
amusement to the mineralogist. At Lesecresig, on the summit of a hill
2 m. from Macroom, see an ancient cairn with Druidical altar.
MALLOW, 12 m. N. of Cork, has long been celebrated as a
watering-place. See ruins of an old Castle, Ch., and Barracks; also
bridge over the Blackwater, and ruins of an ancient Castle in the
well wooded Jephson demesne. Sir R. C. Hoare details some curious
traditions respecting it. Also Ballyellis, handsome seat of the Hare
family. At Ballynamona, 3 m. S. (so famed in Irish melodies), are
ruins of Mourne Abbey. Buttevant, a few miles distant, will amply
repay the antiquary for a visit, by the remains of its venerable
Abbey; ruins of ancient towers and other picturesque scenery: near
to it see Ballybeg, where are ruins of an ancient monastery of
Augustines. Dromagh, about 10 m. N.W., has an old Castle of the
O'Keefes, with ruins of a Nunnery: and at Kanturk, 3 m. distant, are
several remnants of castellated antiquity. Liscarrol, about 5 m. W.
of Buttevant, has an ancient Castle in ruins, and was the scene of
sanguinary battles in the civil wars. See deep hole, supposed to be
fathomless, called Kateshole. Lohort Castle is an old Elizabethan
mansion of Lord Arden, fortified in the ancient style with a moat,
having a fine terrace on its roof and surrounded with pleasing
plantations. Newmarket in the vicinity has some good mountain scenery;
and the tourist may visit Woodfort, a handsome seat, with a turret on
a hill, from whence a most enchanting prospect.
MITCHELSTOWN, a neat little town, 21 m. N.E. of Cork.--See the
magnificent seat of Lord Kingston, and the College, a liberal charity.
See in the vicinity, at Brigowne, 1 m., ruins of Ch. and round tower:
1-1/2 m., ruins of Caherdriny Castle; 2 m., ruins of Carriganoura
Castle. Castle Hyde near to Mitchelstown deserves a visit. The
grounds are extensive, and the house is curiously seated at the base
of a lofty rock. The park contains much diversified scenery, and
is traversed by the romantic Blackwater. See the marble quarries,
esteemed as handsome as any in Ireland; of a dark gray colour with
various shades, and a rich display of shells. At Skehewrinky, see
the cave in a limestone hill of dangerous descent, but beautifully
encrusted with spar and resembling a vaulted cathedral.
MIDDLETON, half way between Cork and Youghall, at the N.E. corner
of Cork harbour. See some ancient ruins of a Castle and Abbey; the
Market-house; public Freeschool, an elegant building; some remains
of Danish works and a large rath at Ballinachora. Several of the
curiosities are noticed under CLOYNE.
MILL STREET, 20 m. N.W. is a small village, with some appearance
of the linen manufacture. The roads are bad; but it has near it a
continued range of mountains that deserve investigation, particularly
two amongst them called the Papps, from their singular resemblance
to the human breast, and having two little protuberances on the very
summit of each, which enforce the resemblance more strongly: these Sir
R. C. Hoare suspects to be carnedds or Tumuli. Near it see ruins of
Clodagh Castle, feudal seat of the Mac Swinneys, once distinguished
for its hospitality by an inscription inviting all strangers to enter;
at Clondrohid, ancient Ch. and Danish encampments; and 1 m. W., on
Lessecresighill, vestiges of a Druidical altar. At Kilnamartery,
curious white rocks, at a distance resembling the ruins of a
magnificent city.
RATHCORMUCK, 12 m. N.E. of Cork, a decent town, with Ch. and neat
Market-house. See to the N. Cairn Tierna, a range of mountains
with an ancient cairn, forming a conspicuous object. Glanmire is
described by Miss Plumptre as a village in a beautiful and romantic
situation:--trace the rivulet through the deep and picturesque glen.
Glanworth has spacious ruins of an ancient Castle, and some remains
of a Dominican Abbey, with good river scenery. 1 m. distant is a most
curious sepulchral monument called Labacally or the Hag's Bed, said
by tradition to have belonged to a giantess of whom many ridiculous
fables are related. Its real history and antiquity are unknown: it
consists of several broad flag-stones supported by others, and most of
them of an enormous size, one no less than 17 feet long and 9 broad.
The whole length of this vast tomb, which is hollow underneath, is 40
feet; in breadth 14; and the whole seems to have been inclosed in a
circle of flag-stones about 14 feet from the outside.
ROSS, about 24 m. S.W. of Cork, may be visited from Clonakilty.--See
a small Gothic Cathedral; ruins of Abbey, Barracks, and neat
Market-house. Miss Plumptre describes the surrounding scenery as
extremely pretty. See curious caves in the rocks by sea side. At
Castlefreke good marine scenery. Castlehaven has ruins of several
Castles, and remains of Spanish entrenchments in Elizabeth's time.
At Dunmanway see some romantic scenery, with a curious natural wall
of rocks. Glandore Bay is a most picturesque scene resembling an
inland lake. At Kilmacabra see Lough Drine with Danish entrenchment
on hill to the E. The lough is supposed by the peasantry to have the
miraculous property of shifting all its islands on some holy day every
year. At Miros are some curious rocks and caverns; see also Mount
Gabriel with most extensive prospect, with a deep lough on its summit.
YOUGHALL, about 24 m. E. of Cork,--is noticeable as the spot where the
first potatoe was planted in Ireland. Some good scenery around it;
and cheerful in the summer as a watering place. See the Ch. a large
Gothic structure with six Gothic arches on each side of the nave;
partly suffered to decay, particularly the chancel, where there is a
very fine east window of the purest Gothic. Here are several ancient
monuments. The mineralogist will be gratified by visiting Clay Castle,
about 1 m. S.W. from the town; a bold hill, on the strata of loose
sandy clay, pieces of which falling upon the beach become a hard firm
grit like freestone.
MINERALS.
Coal is to be met with in the barony of Duhallow; in the N.W. also
iron. In Muskerry in the W. are curious red and white slaty pebbles,
and in other parts are limestone and loam with symptoms of copper. But
on the whole this district, though interesting to the geologist, is
very deficient in mineralogy.
BOTANY.
_Althæa officinalis_, Marshmallow:--at Cable Island.
_Aquilegia vulgaris_, Columbine:--plains near Kilbullane.
_Arbutus Teredo_, Strawberry Tree:--on the mountains.
_Asplenium Adianthum nigrum_, Common Black Maiden-hair:--on the
mountains.
_Asplenium Trichomanes_, English Black Maiden-hair:--on rocky soils.
_Cardamine bellidifolia_, Daisy-leaved Ladies'-smock:--on old walls
near Cork.
_Cistus Helianthemum_, Dwarf Cistus or Little Sun-flower:--on on
limestone hills near Castlemore, and in the barony of Muskerry.
_Cochlearia danica_, Danish Scurvy-grass:--on Cape Clear and elsewhere.
_Cochlearia officinalis_, Common or Garden Scurvy-grass:--on rocks near
the sea.
_Convallaria majalis_, May Sally:--on the river Bandon.
_Dianthus Caryophyllus β_, Common Pink:--on the walls of an old castle
in the market-place at Kinsale.
_Euphorbia hyberna_, Knotty-rooted Spurge:--in the mountains.
_Helleborus viridis_, Wild Black Hellebore:--in a meadow near Doneraile.
_Hypericum Ascyron_ (Lin.), Bruges-rose:--near Ballymaloe in the barony
of Imokilly.
_Lavatera arborea_, Sea Tree Mallow:--on Cable Island near Youghall
harbour in Cork.
_Lepidium latifolium_, Dittander or Pepperwort:--near Corkbeg.
_Mentha rubra_, Red Mint:--near the head of the river Lee near Lough
Alloa.
_Nymphæa alba_, White Water-lily:--on the rivers Lee and Blackwater.
_Pimpinella major_, Great Burnet Saxifrage:--in woods and hedges on a
chalky soil about Cork plentifully.
_Pinus Abies_, Common Fir:--in the mountains.
_Sambucus Ebulus_, Dwarf Elder or Danewort:--on the lands of Rathpecan
near Cork.
_Saxifraga umbrosa_, London Pride, or None-so-pretty:--on all the rocks
in the western districts.
_Sedum dasyphyllum_, Round-leaved Stonecrop:--on an old wall near
Blarney Castle.
_Sedum Telephium_, Orpine or Live-long:--on walls and in pastures and
hedges near Mallow and Doneraile.
_Taxus baccata_, the Yew-tree:--in several parts of Carbery.
_Vaccinium Oxycoccus_, Cran-berries, Moss-berries, or Moor-berries:--in
moorish boggy grounds.
DONNEGAL.
The N.W. extremity of Ireland, anciently inhabited by the _Rhobogdii_
and _Venicni_; but in more modern history known as Tyrconnel. The whole
of the western coast consists of a range of mountainous rocks, which in
some places throw out branches that extend to the sea, or run between
borders of sand. Between the mountains in the interior of the county
there are extensive tracts of bog, in which are the remains of immense
forests buried deep in the bosom of the vale, though at present the
tourist travels for miles without a single tree to solace his eye. One
part of the county, in the vicinity of Leichbeg and Glentes, presents a
view of most singular appearance, consisting of an almost uninhabited
waste of heath, with masses of granite protruding from the sides of the
mountains; whilst here and there, wherever a little soil can be found,
are small patches of cultivated land, with small cabins formed of dry
stone, cement being unthought of. It is bounded by the Atlantic on the
N. and W., by Tyrone and Londonderry on the E. and by Fermanagh and
Leitrim on the S.
BALLYSHANNON, about 10 m. W. of Donnegal,--presents some pleasing
scenery of beautiful landscapes, swelling hills cultivated, and
with the bay flowing up between them. These hills are extremely
picturesque, rising into various outlines, and dying away insensibly
into one another. See Bridge of 14 arches; also the Salmon-leap,
surrounded by most romantic scenery; a fine fall of water;
perpendicular rocks forming the banks of the river, with bold views
of the sea. Here also are some ruins of the once famous Castle of the
O'Donnels, the turbulent feudal chieftains of Tyrconnel; and 1/2 m.
distant, in a secluded but finely picturesque situation, the ruins
of Asheroe Abbey. In the vicinity several Danish Raths. Belleek is a
pretty village, 8 m. E. of Ballyshannon, and at the end of Lough Erne,
whose waters here form two fine cataracts under perpendicular and well
wooded rocks. Several handsome seats, particularly Castle Caldwell on
the Lough, with ruins of several ancient Castles; but in Fermanagh.
DONNEGAL, the county town, is a decayed town 111 m. N.W. from
Dublin.--It contains little worth notice, except an ancient
castellated mansion of the Earls of Arran, which with the river and
bridge is considered by Sir R. C. Hoare as forming a good subject for
the pencil. Near it are the remains of a Franciscan Abbey (1505) in
a most picturesque situation. See spacious market-place; mill-stone
quarries in vicinity. The finest view of the Bay is from the bridge of
Imber, whence towards the right is seen a lofty but distant mountain,
with cultivated fields in the foreground: at the foot of another
mountain a gentleman's seat with well grown plantations strikes the
eye; and to the left the scene is diversified by a sand bank thrown
up by the sea, and a high ridge of plantation on the western side
of the river, with the bay appearing beyond it or seen through its
waving interstices. Barnmoor pass is highly awful and grand, leading
towards Lough Esk, about a quarter of a mile wide and 3 m. long,
formed by mountains rising high on each side of a deep glen covered
with heath, and frowning in deathlike silence. Lough Derg, 6 m. E. is
remarkable for its Purgatory; founded as reported by St. Patrick, in a
small island about 130 yards long and 50 broad. The Purgatory itself
consists of a cave 16-1/2 feet long by 2 wide, so very low that a tall
man cannot stand erect in it. Around it are the remains of several
Chapels and holy circles dedicated to various saints of both sexes.
Lough Esk lies at the head of the valley which communicates with
Donnegal, and at the foot of the magnificent Ross Mountains; round
it the scenery is sometimes awfully sublime, and sometimes rich and
cheerful. The sportsman will find red deer on the hills, and char in
the lake.
INISHOWEN BARONY.--Even in Ireland, it is considered wild, savage,
and impassable, from want of good roads. But Mr. Wakefield represents
it in a very different light, and worthy the notice of the tourist.
The roads, he says, are very good; the land better cultivated than
any other part of the county; whilst the views of Lough Swilly from
it are exceedingly grand. See the agreeably situated house of the
Bishop of Derry at Faun. Let the mineralogist visit the Arigal, on
the eastern bound of the county, said to be the highest hill in the
province; it is shaped like a sugar-loaf, and contains a quantity
of mountain spar, with lead-mines in its vicinity. In this district
is the parish of Cloncha, where are some remains of a large stone
Cross sculptured with rude representations of various animals; also
part of a Druidical circle of 12 stones, 6 feet high, forming a
segment of a circle 60 feet in diameter. In the same parish see the
great peninsular rock of Dunmore. In this parish are still preserved
some traditionary fragments of Ossian. In Clonmany parish see the
picturesque scenery round the Ch.; also a round tower forming part of
the ruins of an ancient Castle; near it a castle on a pyramidal rock,
not far from which is Mamore Gap, presenting the most sublime scenery
of mountains, rocks, and ocean,--a district consecrated to the memory
of Cuchullin and the heroes of other times: a Druidical altar here, is
called Cuchullin's (or Fion Mac Cuil's) stone. Near Cromla, in this
vicinity, is the site of the ancient Tura, so famed in those scattered
traditionary fragments that form the basis of Mac Pherson's modern
Fingal.
KILLYBEGS, about 12 m. W. of Donnegal, offers some fine marine and
mountain scenery. See ruins of Abbey.
LETTERKENNY, about 25 m. N.E. of Donnegal, and 15 m. W.N.W. of
Londonderry, forms a good station for visiting the wild scenery
towards the coast. At Ards Castle, see ruins of Castle and Baltimore
Ch. Dunfanaghy has some castellated ruins in its vicinity. At
Hornhead, 28 m. W. from Letterkenny, see a remarkable cavern called
Mac Swine's Gun, on a rocky cliff 60 feet perpendicular. Of these
rocks the lower stratum is porous sandstone, hollowed into a cavern
by the violence and continual buffeting of the waves, from whence
an aperture proceeds to the summit. When the wind comes from the
N.W. the billows being driven with great violence into the cavern,
the water thus forced to find a passage through the aperture,
rises to the summit of the funnel, from whence it again descends
with a most tremendous noise. Near this is MacSwine's Castle, an
ancient edifice, now fitted up as a modern residence. See Rutland, a
modern fishing-town, worthy the notice of the statistical tourist.
Kilmacrenan, about 8 m. N., has some ecclesiastical ruins, founded
by St. Columb, of which the parish Ch. forms a part. See the rock on
which the O'Donnels, princes of Tyrconnel, were always inaugurated;
also Lough Salt, in a romantic situation on the summit of a mountain.
Murkish Mountain, situated within 4 m. of two deep and safe harbours,
Dunfanaghy and Sheephaven, affords siliceous sand in great abundance.
Rathmelton is a beautiful village on the banks of Lough Swilly: see
Sir J. Stewart's handsome seat. The scenery around is delightful; much
planting, a fine river, and every appearance of increasing industry
and comfort. W. of Rathmelton is the bridge of Loughaugh, an arch of
52 feet span. Ascend Mount Alt, on the summit of which a lake with
most extensive prospect, combining ocean and mountain scenery.
LIFFORD, 28 m. N.E. of Donnegal, is prettily seated on the river
Foyle, and is the assize town for the county. The tourist will here
find the inhabitants a complete Scotch colony.
RAPHO, 24 m. N.E. of Donnegal, was an episcopal city, but now a
dilapidated village.--See the Episcopal Palace, once a Castle which
stood a siege in the Civil Wars: also the modernized Cathedral. Near
Ballybofy see Lough Mourne, and the dreary mountains of Barnsmore.
TORY ISLAND, which lies about 3 leagues from the main, N.W. from
Sheephaven, contains the ruins of a monastery and of seven churches,
having formerly been a "station," or place of Catholic penance.
MINERALS.
Sandstone and basaltes or whinstone, with pieces of coal imbedded, are
frequent in Kilbarrow and Kildoney. Emery is also found in the same
vicinity, and the chalybeates announce the existence of iron. Lead and
iron ore are to be found in the mountains.
BOTANY.
_Galium boreale_, Crosswort Madder:--in mountainous meadows.
_Gnaphalium sylvaticum_, Upright Cudweed:--in sandy pastures and woods.
[Illustration:
_T. Fielding fc._
_View from Warren Point Near Newry._]
DOWN.
The modern picture of this county, as sketched by Mr. Wakefield, is
flattering to Irish pride, and shows what may be done by industry.
He observes that in the western side in particular, the land is in a
high state of cultivation, and inhabited by a middle class of opulent
manufacturers, whose appearance and condition would do honour to any
country in Europe. Their habitations are well-built, display great
neatness, and are all whitewashed. The whole tract is embellished
with plantations; and, whether owing to the wealth created by the
linen manufacture, or the trade carried on at Belfast and Newry, every
thing exhibits evident signs of increased population and industry. The
banks of the rivers Bann and Lagan are covered with bleach-fields,
and present that cheerful and pleasing scenery which characterizes a
manufacturing country, and excites in the mind an idea of improved
civilization. The whiteness of the linen spread out in those fields,
contrasted with the greenness of the surrounding sward, produces an
effect on the eye not easily described; and the concomitant objects,
added to the bustle and activity of the people employed, render the
whole scene most interesting. In the S. the mountains of Mourne raise
their majestic heads to the sky, and afford much entertainment to the
picturesque tourist, who may visit them from Rosstrevor; and it is
a curious fact recently noticed, that a road leading to Carlingford
over one of the loftiest, is actually cut through a stratum of sea
shells (_Turbo littoreus_) of considerable depth, and more than 1 m.
in length. The roads are good in all parts, and the accommodations
comfortable. Bounded on the N. by Antrim, E. by St. George's Channel,
S. by Louth, and W. by Armagh.
BALLYNAHINCH, 10 m. N.W. of Downpatrick, seated on a small river
nearly in the centre of the county, has been long celebrated for its
sulphurated chalybeate spa, at the foot of Slieve Croob mountain
at about 2 m. dist. The vicinity is peculiarly romantic. See Ch.,
Charter-school, and Dissenting Meeting-house. See on the summit of
Slieve Croob mountain a remarkable cairn, 80 yards in circumference at
base, and 50 at top; another near Annadorn in its immediate vicinity
with a rude stone chamber in the centre. The space between Slieve
Croob and Ballynahinch is so completely occupied with rocks and
hills, that anciently it bore the name of Magheradrol, or Field of
Difficulties.
BANBRIDGE, about 18 m. W. from Downpatrick, has a bridge over the
Bann, and is in the heart of the linen manufacture. At Gilford, 5 m.
distant, is a chalybeate; and the river scenery, especially in the
vicinity of its bridge of 18 arches, deserves notice. At Warringston
see Ch. with curious roof of Irish oak; also a Danish rath.
BANGOR, a small town 21 m. N. of Downpatrick on Carrickfergus Bay. See
ruins of Abbey founded by St. Carigel (555), with Ch. (1623). Near it
is Groom's Port, where Schomberg landed with K. William's forces at
the Revolution.
COMBER, a thriving little town on Strangford Lough, 13 m. N. of
Downpatrick, with pleasant lake scenery. See ruins of Mount Alexander
Castle; fine strand at low water, and most excellent race-course. In
this place the tourist will hear much of a famous female spinner,
Anne MacQuillin, some of whose finest yarn, spun into 105 hanks to
the pound of flax, actually measured 214 English miles per pound. To
spin this required about a fortnight, and could only be done in mild
weather. At Castlereagh, 4 m., see ruins of ancient Castle. At Drumbo,
5 m. S.W. of Castlereagh, see ruins of Ch. and round tower, formerly
an Abbey founded by St. Patrick; and 2 m. N. the Giant's Ring, already
noticed as in the vicinity of Belfast. It is an ancient circle and
mound of earth 842 paces in circumference, with a Druidical altar in
the centre, consisting of four masses of stone, with a larger one
laid horizontally. On the bank are the remains of a round tower. It
is worth observing, that although there are some lofty mountains in
its vicinity, yet a person standing at the Cromlech in the centre has
his view completely bounded by the earthen mound, beyond which the sky
alone is visible, and the effect sublime. About 3 m. distant on the
banks of the Lagan is Newtonbreda, a pretty village with extremely
handsome Ch.; and near to it the elegant seat and park of Belvoir.
Saintfield, 5 m. S.W. of Comber, is an improving town; near which is a
Danish rath worth seeing.
DONAGHADEE, the station for the Scottish packets, about 22 m. N. of
Downpatrick, a comfortable town. See Gothic Ch. and new market-place.
The pier forms a pleasant walk. See the rath 70 feet high on a natural
mount, 140 feet in all. The summit is capable of holding 100 persons,
and the view, over the channel, of Scotland and the Isle of Man is
very extensive. Whilst in this vicinity, the tourist will be amused
by a marine trip to the Copland Isles, on one of which, Cross Island,
containing about 30 acres, there is a light-house constructed of
limestone found on the spot. In one of them is a cemetery with the
ruins of a Ch., also several cairns. See Portavo and ruins of Temple
Ch. on the beach, on the spot where St. Patrick landed.
DOWNPATRICK, 74 m. N. of Dublin, is the county town, pleasantly
seated on an arm of Strangford Lough. See remains of ancient Abbey
and Cathedral, boasted of as the burial-place of St. Patrick, St.
Columb, and St. Bridget: Town-hall; Market-house; Barracks; Gaol: on
the N.W. is a conical rath, 60 feet high, inclosed by 3 ramparts; the
race-ground 1 m. distant. Struel Wells, celebrated as a Penitentiary,
about 1 m. from the town. At Ardglass, 5 m. S.E. in Irish Channel,
ruins of several Castles. Ballycarn Bay in its vicinity has a
beautiful grotto under a limestone hill, with an intensely cold well.
W. of it is Ballyvaston. See an extensive tract of land, rendered
sterile by sand from the ocean. Carreg Abbey; ruins of Abbey and
St. Finian's Well are near Ardglass; also Castle Screan, built on a
Danish rath, with several Druidical remains. Coil-bridge, the Port of
Downpatrick, leads to Inis Courcey, where are some ruins of an Abbey
(1180). Killough, 5 m. S.E., is a pleasant village, with good harbour
on the Irish Channel. See Ch.; Horse-barracks; Charter-school, and
near it a mineral spring. In a rock near the shore runs an oblong
cavity, which at the ebbing and flowing of the tide emits a noise like
a hunting-horn: St. Scordin's Well gushes out of a rock on the beach,
and is never dry. Saul Abbey in ruins, with some castellated remains,
is about 2 m. from Downpatrick.
DROMORE, about 18 m. N.W. of Downpatrick, is a bishop's see, but
now merely a village.--See the very small Cathedral and neat modern
Episcopal Palace. Danish rath on hill at N. side, with a covered
passage 260 feet to the Lagan river. Chalybeate spring, said to
be good in gravelly complaints. Neat Market-house; Dissenting
Meeting-houses, &c. Dromaragh, 6 m. S.E., has some curious artificial
caves of considerable extent. S.E. towards Slieve-croob, at Leganeny,
a curious cromlech, and ancient stone cross near Drumgooland Ch.
Magheralin, 5 m. N.W., has a handsome Ch.; see marble quarries. At
Moira, 4 m. N.W., the scene of a sanguinary battle in 637, which
lasted six days, between Congal Claon and Donald King of Ireland; see
Moira Castle.
DUNDRUM, 7 m. S.W. of Downpatrick, is seated on a large bay open to
the Irish Channel--See extensive ruins of ancient Castle on a rock,
built by the Knights Templars, but dismantled by Cromwell. Here the
noble mountains of Mourne appear to great advantage. Clogh, a small
village 2 m. N.E., has a Danish rath surrounded by a broad deep fosse,
with plain strong Castle; and near it Mount Panther, seat of the
Annesleys. Castle Wellan has a small lake with pretty scenery; near
it, Briansford, a village seated midst romantic mountain landscape,
rocks, cataracts, &c. New Castle has some castellated ruins at the
foot of Slieve Donard, the highest of the Mourne mountains; and is
a much frequented sea-bathing place. The vicinity wild and sterile,
but alpine and highly romantic. S. of Dundrum, at Slidderyford, are
remains of a Druidical circle. Tullymore Park, near to it, is the
seat of the Earl of Clanbrassil, and is situated at one end of the
mountains of Mourne, and within 2 m. of the sea. The country around
it is wild and rocky, exhibiting some scenes of singular beauty in
the romantic style. Two mountain torrents join in the Park, and form
sundry cascades in their passage to the sea, into which they fall at
Dundrum Bay. The house stands in the park, and, though not lofty in
itself, yet commands a fine prospect from its elevated situation. It
is an extensive edifice with four fronts of 130 feet each, inclosing
a square area, and each front is different from the others; 10 m. from
Downpatrick.
HILLSBOROUGH, 18 m. N.W. of Downpatrick, a modern built town with
excellent inn. See elegant Ch. with stained glass windows; the mansion
of the marquis of Downshire; remains of Castle; handsome Market-house;
Maze course, 1 m. distant, one of the finest in Ireland, with a hill
in the centre. At Anahilt, 3 m. S., the sportsman will find plenty of
pike and trout in Lough Erin, and wild-fowl in the extensive bogs.
KILLYLEAGH, 5 m. N.E. of Downpatrick, stands on Strangford Lough, and
is a thriving place, with handsome Ch. &c. It was the birth-place of
the venerable Sir Hans Sloane, founder of the British Museum. See the
Castle. At Ardmillar, 6 m. N.E., is a chalybeate spring. Ringhaddy has
some remains of a Castle, and has long been famous for its oysters.
LOUGHBRICKLAND, on the Dublin road from Belfast, is about 24 m. W.
of Downpatrick, on the borders of the Jonesborough mountains, where
there is much wild scenery, and a small lake in its immediate vicinity
where the sportsman will find plenty of speckled trout. It is noted
as an encampment of K. William's army on their way to the battle of
the Boyne. From Ellenmoney, a bog near it, towards Points Pass, run
two rivers, one N. the other S. Near it and at Scarvagh are remains of
fortifications in the Civil Wars.
NEWRY, a thriving commercial town at the head of Carlingford Bay,
on the verge of the county, and about 25 m. S.W. of Downpatrick.--A
pleasant cheerful vicinity, and a good central station. See canal,
drawbridges, &c. 1/2 m. distant are the Creeve rocks, with ruins of
old Chapel. The mineralogist may here examine specimens of metallic
spar, ponderous and ferruginous. At Crownbridge, 1 m. E., a Danish
rath; and near it some Druidical remains. At Narrow-water, the port
of Newry, see ancient Castle and Salt-works. N. of it 5 m. is Tuscan
Pass, with several small lakes in which are plenty of pike. The
tourist may also visit Warren's Point, where large ships are obliged
to lie, and where the whole line of coast presents a continuation of
gentlemen's houses and whitened cottages, enlivened in the bathing
season by numerous parties.
NEWTONARDS, a comfortable town at the head of Strangford Lough, about
18 m. N. of Downpatrick. See venerable Ch., with some vestiges of
an ancient monastery at Moville 1 m. distant. Gransha, about 5 m.
E., has a good chalybeate, stronger than Tunbridge Wells, but little
frequented being in a wild boggy district. Not far distant is Grey
Abbey on the E. shore of the Lough, founded by a daughter of one of
the kings of Man, whose statue is still preserved. Part of it is
fitted up as a parish Ch., and the E. window is a noble specimen of
Gothic tracery. About 1/2 m. S. of Newtonards is Scraba mountain,
lofty, but cultivated nearly to the summit. Near to it are good
freestone quarries; and 2 m. N. a loftier hill, sometimes confounded
with it, called Karn Gaur or the Goat's Mount. The vicinity is famous
for goat's whey. See Mount Stewart.
PORTAFERRY, 10 m. N.E. of Downpatrick, is a town of some trade at the
mouth of Strangford Lough.--See ancient Castle of the Savages; Ch. and
two curious chapels. Near it is Echlinville. At Kirkistown, 4 m. N.E.,
ancient Ch. of Slane, and ruins of Castlebuy.
RATHFRYLAND, about 21 m. W. of Downpatrick, is a large pleasant
village.--On summit of a hill see ruins of a Castle. The country round
it is very agreeable. See village of Hilltown: Lissize, seat of E.
Clanwilliam; and Turkelly's Well, 2 m. N., a celebrated chalybeate for
scrophulous complaints.
ROSTREVOR, about 22 m. from Downpatrick, is considered the Brighton
of Ireland as a watering-place, and highly extolled for its romantic
scenery; being seated on a well wooded bank on a small arm of the
sea, which stretches into the country from Carlingford Bay. Sir R. C.
Hoare describes the entrance to it as very striking on approaching
from Dundrum; Carlingford Bay being so landlocked and surrounded
by mountains as to resemble a large lake; and the tourist, passing
through an irregular grove of tall and aged ash trees, with the sea
and whitened houses glimmering between them, finds here a truly rural
village retirement, commanding within its immediate vicinity more
beauty than the generality of sea places; a dry soil, shady walks,
diversified rides, and good bathing. He describes the most striking
feature of this place to be a lofty mountain covered chiefly with oak
wood, feathered down to the water's edge; underneath which is a little
quay, from whence there is a walk of 3/4 m. along the banks of the bay
completely arboured by oak trees, with a good road continued along
the coast under the Mourne Mountains to Dundrum Bay. We recommend
this spot more particularly to the tourist, as Sir R. C. adds that
he has seen no place with a more pleasing combination of rural
beauties; mountains agreeably varied with wood, heath, and down, on
one side; others on the opposite coast (Louth) singularly cultivated
in small portions or strips resembling a quilt of patchwork; between
them an extended channel of water, on the banks of which is the town
of Carlingford with its ruined Abbeys and Castle; a purling brook,
fine trees, neatly whitened cottages, &c. and a clean good inn. Miss
Plumptre speaks of it in equally picturesque and admiring terms. 1 m.
see ruins of Kilbreny Ch. The tourist may examine a romantic mountain
road to Rathfyland; and the mineralogist will find ample amusement on
the lofty mountains of Iveagh and Mourne, which extend far to the E.
along the Irish sea.
STRANGFORD, 7 m. N.E. of Downpatrick, is a small but very ancient
town, at the entrance of the Lough.--See Charter School, and ruins of
Castle Audley, and Walsh's Castle, from the former of which there is
a most extensive view over the bay. Kilclief Castle has considerable
remains. The Lough possesses some very fine scenery, especially
towards its entrance, where through tracts of hilly grounds the Irish
Channel is seen at intervals and the lofty hills of the Isle of Man.
The town of Strangford in the bottom is pleasantly situated amongst
trees, contrasting well with the bold mountains of Mourne in all their
sublimity. Near is Castle Ward, the seat of Lord Bangor, with the
peculiarity of two fronts, one Grecian the other Gothic. See the fine
grounds and extensive prospects.
MINERALS.
Copper ore in several places amongst the mountains. Lead in a mine
near Newtonards; rich specimens of ore amongst the rocks at Killough;
near Dundrum; and Portaferry.
Freestone quarries at Scraba and Kilwarlin; and slates at Bangor and
other places. The mineralogist and geologist will find much amusement
in the limestone quarries near Moira, containing specimens of marine
exuviæ.
Granite amongst the Mourne Mountains.
Iron has not been found in ore, but the numerous chalybeates attest its
presence.
BOTANY.
_Asplenium Adiantum nigrum_, Black Maiden-hair:--on the mountains of
Mourne.
_Fucus esculentus_, Broad esculent Sea Wrack:--on submarine rocks and
stones.
_Galega officinalis_, (Linn.) Goat's Rue:--in the western parts.
_Juniperus communis_, Common Juniper:--on Mourne and Scraba.
_Juniperus Sabina_, Savine:--on the Mourne mountains.
_Lycopodium alpinum_, Mountain Club Moss:--in the Mourne district.
_Lycopodium clavatum_, Common Club-moss:--on the Mourne mountains.
_Nymphæa alba_, White Water Lily:--among the lakes in the western parts.
_Orobus sylvaticus_, Bitter Vetch:--in woods and hedges near Rosstrevor.
_Pyrola rotundifolia_, Wintergreen:--on Scraba.
_Serapias longifolia γ_, a variety of White-flowered Bastard
Hellebore:--on a rotten bog by a lough side near Ballinahinch.
_Teucrium Scordium_, Water Germander:--in marshy places about Granshaw.
_Valantia cruciata_, Crosswort:--among the rubbish of the Cathedral of
Downpatrick.
DUBLIN.
This county offers to the tourist a complete epitome of the whole
Island. In the northern district are many bogs, yet in various points
the most beautiful scenery opens to the view, presenting numerous
villages with highly ornamented mansions and villas scattered around;
except in some few spots, trees indeed are wanting; and extensive salt
marshes spread towards the coast. S. of the Liffey there is very little
tillage, but to the picturesque eye this is amply compensated by the
wild uncultivated heaths, rocky mountains, winding glens, and sombre
landscapes that extend on every side. The ancient inhabitants were the
_Voluntii_ and _Eblani_; after them came the _Danes_ and _Ostmen_;
in later times the county was always within the English pale. The
Irish sea bounds it on the E., on the S. Wicklow, W. Kildare, and N.
Eastmeath.
BALRUDDERY, 15 m. N. of Dublin, lies on the coach road, and, though
but a village in decay, may form a temporary station for the tourist
to examine the northern district; or he may stop at the Man of War
Inn, 2 m. nearer to the capital. Balbriggan, is a good fishing village
2 m. distant; see Cotton Manufactory; and the mineralogist may examine
the veins of sparry micaceous stone, of copper, and sulphur, recently
discovered. Near the sea coast is Baldungan Castle, now a mass of
ruins, having been taken and dismantled by Cromwell; yet enough
remains to give interest to the legendary stories connected with it.
Its architecture is of the 13th century, combining the domestic with
the castellated form as a baronial residence, and said by tradition
to have contained a nunnery and a friary within its walls, whose
religious occupants sought protection here during the intestine
warfare of early times. The situation is pleasant, with a most
extensive view in all directions; and there still remain two large
towers at the west end with a parapet in front that covers the passage
between them, the whole richly mantled with ivy: besides which many
of the domestic apartments may be traced in the adjoining building,
the approach to which is by staircases in the towers, leading also
to the battlements. See also the Chapel and cemetery. At Grace Dieu
are some remains of a Nunnery (1190). Holm Patrick has some venerable
remains of a Ch. dedicated to the tutelar saint, who made this place
his residence. Naul, a small village 14 m. N. from Dublin, upon the
borders of Eastmeath, deserves a visit to its very beautiful glen,
whose romantic rocks, cascade, and rugged caves, are finely contrasted
by the picturesque ruins of its ancient castle. See the waterfall
called the Roches, and ruins of Snowton Castle. Patrick's Isle has the
ruins of an ancient Ch.
DUBLIN, says Sir R. Hoare, is more remarkable for its fine public
buildings than for its squares or streets: the latter, though planned
upon an extensive scale, want neatness and symmetry; but the former
unite elegance of design and grandeur with good execution. As this
is probably the first spot visited, we may observe that the view
in approaching the bay is delightful. On the left is seen a rich
and well-cultivated bank covered with villages and cottages, and
backed by the Wicklow Mountains, towering to a considerable height
and fading into the purple of distance. To the southward are seen
Sea View and the Black Rock, about 4 m. from the capital, studded
with white cottages for summer residents; to the north a more level
country extends towards the Hill of Howth covered with villas, amongst
which is the architectural _bijou_ belonging to Lord Charlemont,
known by the name of Marino. On approaching the harbour the stranger
is agreeably struck with the appearance of commercial activity, the
range of shipping extending nearly a mile into the city, their masts
resembling an immense forest. As he advances the scene becomes more
interesting; but to enable him to investigate it at his leisure we
shall arrange all the objects of curiosity alphabetically under their
various heads.
The _Bridges_ are numerous, convenient, and the new ones elegant.
Carlisle bridge forms a magnificent junction of the finest streets in
the city. Essex bridge, near the Castle, is a miniature of Westminster
bridge. Sarah bridge of one arch, 104 feet span, is compared to the
Rialto at Venice. The quays are well built and extensive; but the
river is an unpleasant object except at high water.
[Illustration:
_T. Fielding del. et fc._
_Dublin from the Circular Road._]
The _Churches_ are very numerous, besides Meeting-houses, and
Catholic-chapels. Christ Church, the Priory of the Holy Trinity, is of
ancient date, erected by a Danish prince in 1038, and much enlarged
by the addition of various chapels by adventurers in the reign of
Hen. II. Here they show a monument, said to be that of Strongbow Earl
of Pembroke, the principal invading chieftain; an opinion certainly
confirmed by Sir Henry Sydney, in 1570, who restored the monument after
it had been broken by the fall of the roof; but Leland asserts that
in his time an inscription in Gloucester Cathedral expressly stated
that to be his place of sepulture. To the left of the high altar,
see a costly marble tomb of an Earl of Kildare, in 1743; opposite
to this, one of Secretary Agard in 1577; also the singular musical
epitaph of Dr. Woodward. The architecture of the exterior is various,
Saxon and Gothic; the inside an incongruous mixture of Gothic and
Grecian. The Round Ch. deserves notice for the singularity of its form;
and St. Catherine's on the S. side of Thomas-street has a handsome
modern front. St. Patrick's Cathedral is a fine object of ancient
ecclesiastical architecture, but surrounded by filth and poverty of the
most disgusting kind. It is of various dates, from 1190 down to 1750,
when the lofty spire was erected; and part, including the steeple, was
re-edified in 1370, after partial destruction by fire. The Virgin's
Chapel is of the year 1271; but the whole is now in such a ruinous
state that Sir R. C. Hoare fears its speedy downfall. He recommends
the Chapter-house and choir as the best specimens of its architecture.
On the right of the altar see the very curious monument of the Boyle
family, rising nearly to the ceiling; on the opposite side, the tomb of
Lord Ranelagh; a tablet to the memory of Dean Swift, and near it one
for Stella; another to Sir H. Wallop; and a bust of the celebrated but
eccentric George Falkner.
The _Hospitals_ are numerous and well regulated. The principal are,
the Blue-coat Hospital at Oxmanton Green, for sons of decayed freemen;
Foundling, spacious and airy; Kilmainham, for soldiers, on the plan
of Chelsea on a grand scale; Magdalen, in Leeson-street, with Sunday
service; Marine School, on Rogerson's Quay; Incorporated Society's
Establishment, in Lower Bagot-street, for females educated at public
expense, until apprenticed; with many others.
_Literary Societies._--The Institution in Sackville-street has a good
library, lecture- and news-rooms; good collection of minerals and
marbles. The Dublin Society has a fine Museum of Natural History,
particularly in minerals; good library, laboratory, lecture-room,
exhibition of paintings; Botanic Garden at Glasnevin, and Observatory
at Dunsink. Royal Irish Academy has literary meetings every Monday.
_Private Edifices_--are not very numerous. See Charlemont House;
Leinster House, fine Corinthian front, rusticated, and Doric wings;
Waterford House in Marlborough-street.
_Public Edifices._--The barracks consist of 4 noble squares. The
Castle, mean on the outside but splendid within, contains Public
offices, an Arsenal and Armory; elegant modern Gothic Chapel, and
Bermingham's Tower. Commercial buildings on N. side of Dame-street.
To see the Custom House with striking effect, it must be viewed from
the opposite side of the river, where the statues and decorations
present a fine spectacle. The internal arrangements deserve notice.
The long room is 70 feet square and of course a practical bull. The
Exchange merits peculiar architectural attention, being a fine rotunda
within a square, having in the interior 12 fluted pillars of the
Composite order, 32 feet high, with a highly enriched entablature
crowned by a handsome dome. The Law Courts form a magnificent pile;
the approach grand, the hall noble, and the arrangements well suited
to the purpose. Sir R. C. Hoare objects to the architectural effect
produced by the dome, especially when viewed from the opposite side
of the river. See the Linen Hall. The Parliament House, no longer
used for its original purpose, presents a façade of fine architecture
perfectly in unison with the handsome front of Trinity College. Post
Office in Sackville-street. Stamp Office occupies an elegant mansion
in William-street; once Powerscourt House. Trinity College forms a
very striking object when approached from Dame-street. The tourist will
notice the fine effect on entering the principal court, particularly of
two elegant stone buildings with correspondent Corinthian porticoes on
the right and left. See the Library, a magnificent room, surpassed only
in Sir R. C. Hoare's opinion, by that of Trinity College at Cambridge:
it is 269 feet long, 50 broad, and 40 high. The æra of the University
is the reign of Elizabeth, but the edifice itself is modern. A handsome
but not very extensive park belongs to the University, in which, see
the celebrated Anatomical School, with wax preparations; also the
Museum and the Provost's House.
_Public Places_ are not very numerous. The Rotunda in Rutland-square,
attached to the Lying-in Hospital, is open as a promenade with balls,
concerts, &c. The Theatre Royal (Crow-street) is gloomy on the outside,
but highly embellished and convenient within.
The _Squares_ and _Streets_ are often spacious. College Green has a
statue of K. William III. in the centre. Fitzwilliam Square, small
but pretty. Merrion Square, open and airy, with some good buildings.
Mountjoy Square enjoys a most extensive prospect, and is elegantly laid
out. St. Stephen's Green is the largest square in Europe. Sackville
Street is also the widest street, having been originally a Mall, with
houses built on each side. Great, however, as these are, Sir R. C.
Hoare passes on them some severe criticisms, by no means unfounded.
In the _Environs_, see the Royal Canal and City Basin; ride round the
circular road for good views of the city; visit the light-house at the
extremity of a pier upwards of 3 m. in length; and ride over the Phœnix
Park, 7 m. in circumference.
_Excursions_ from Dublin, to the extent of a day's ride, may be
arranged in 4 directions, N.E., S.E., S.W., and N.W.
In the N.E., Beldoyle is a pleasant little village 6 m. near the Hill
of Howth, with enchanting marine prospects. Clontarf, a neat village
2-1/2 m., a fashionable bathing-place. Here fell Brian Boru, the Irish
king, in a battle with the Danes (1014). See the Castle and Ch.; also
some lead ore in the neighbouring quarry. Drumcondra, a pleasant
village, nearly unites with Dublin on the northern verge. The old Ch.
is neatly modernized, and contains a handsome monument to the memory of
Mr. Coghill, Chancellor of the Exchequer in the last century; but the
picturesque tourist will be more interested by the grave of the late
antiquary, Francis Grose, whose graphic hand here moulders in the dust.
See the superb mansion of Santry, 1 m.; and the view from Cloghran Ch.
on a lofty eminence. Howth, 7 m. E., is well worth visiting from the
metropolis on account of its extensive prospects. See the Light-house;
the rocky island of Ireland's Eye; the ancient Castle of the Earls
of Howth; the ruins of an ancient Chapel. The botanist will also
find several medicinal and fragrant plants among its rugged cliffs.
Howth House presents a venerable picture of antiquity to the eye of
taste. The surface of the peninsula on which it stands is sterile; but
swelling into a lofty hill is usually denominated the Hill of Howth:
its shores are rocky and precipitous, indented with creeks for small
craft, and abounding with gloomy caverns in which seals and porpoises
are often seen rolling their unwieldy bodies. Howth contains several
religious fragments worthy of notice. The ruins of the Ch. are extensive
and picturesque, and there is something interesting in tracing the
vestiges of the ancient monastery which once stood close to its
hallowed walls. Entering at the S. door the visitor passes into a hall,
out of which a door opens into the church shaded by venerable foliage.
Beyond this is the kitchen, with the ruins of several apartments. Close
by it is an ancient moat; and a small rivulet flows beneath the old
battlemented wall. See the new Pier; and make an excursion to Lambay
Island, where are ruins of an old Castle, and plenty of shell-fish
and rabbit shooting. Marino is a small Italian Casino, seated on a
pleasing lawn, margined on the higher part by a luxuriant shrubbery.
The whole possesses much elegance, lightness, and effect, and commands
a fine prospect. The rising ground on which it stands slopes off to
an agreeable accompaniment of wood, beyond which, on one side is the
harbour, which here has the appearance of a noble river covered with
shipping. See the venerable Ch. at Artane. Near it see the pleasant
village of Raheny; and the venerable Ch. at St. Douloghs, built before
the 11th century, most curious to the antiquary and architect.--In
the SOUTH EAST see Black Rock, a pleasant watering village, 4 m. S.E.,
beautifully situated on the bay, with extensive prospects. Visit Sea
point, and obelisk at Rochestown. Bullock is a village on the sea
coast, 7 m. from the capital; much frequented as a watering place.
On the cliffs are the extensive ruins of an old castle, of uncertain
antiquity; also a Druidical cromlech in a glen, deserving the notice of
the picturesque tourist. Dalkey, a village on the sea shore, contains
the ruins of two old castles. The island opposite to it has the ruins
of a Ch. and vestiges of an ancient sepulture. Also a martello tower.
The iron-bound coast is very romantic towards Killeny Hill, from whence
are some charming prospects, especially from the obelisk on the summit.
In tracing the bold and striking scenery towards Bray, the tourist will
not omit Mount Druid, the Circle, Gothic Tower, and ruins of Killeny
Ch. Donnybrook, on the extreme limits of the city, has a venerable Ch.;
go on to the magnificent mansion of Viscount Fitzwilliam, at Mount
Merrion; and to Stillorgan, 4 m., with most extensive prospect from the
Obelisk. Dundrum, 4 m., is noted for goats' whey: see deep Glen and
ancient Castle; enchanting scenery, and extensive prospects. Dunleary,
5 m., is a thriving village, with numerous natural beauties and much
recent improvement. See Martello Towers. At Rath mines, close to the
city, see the ruins of Baggotsrath Castle, celebrated in the military
history of this part of the island during the civil wars. Loughlinstown
has in its vicinity the venerable ruins of Tallagh Ch., with curious
sepulchral Crosses in an ancient cemetery, marked by legendary
superstitions. Rathfarnam, 3 m., beautifully seated on an eminence, has
near it the magnificent Castle of the Morgans of Ely. The elegant seat
of Marloy, and Southwell's Glen, with most romantic scenery; Druids
altar, and ancient Judgement Chair of the Brehon Laws. The pedestrian
may here spend a day delightfully.--In the SOUTH WEST, Chapelizod, a
handsome populous village, is close to the Phœnix Park, and famous
for its Strawberries. See picturesque and venerable Chapel, and fine
scenery towards Lucan. Clondalkin is a village about 4 m. from Dublin,
and worthy the notice of the tourist for its round tower, 84 feet in
height, close to a church of modern erection, but surrounded by ancient
ruins supposed to belong to a Danish palace, and an archiepiscopal
see. Tallagh, 5 m., a straggling village. See venerable archiepiscopal
palace, now deserted: also fine prospect from summit of the hill; and
Timoon Castle in ruins. In the NORTH WEST, see Castleknock, a small
pleasant village, 4 m. W., and its old Castle in ruins, built in the
reign of Hen. II. and commanding a fine view. Near it is the venerable
ruin of Drymnagh Castle, in a most romantic spot; also Dunsink, where
stands the Observatory. Glasmenogue, in the vicinity, is a station for
the passage-boats on the Royal Canal; an excursion on which cannot fail
to amuse the tourist.
GLASNEVIN is 2 m. N. of Dublin.--See the Botanic Garden of the Dublin
Society, well laid out and conducted upon the Linnean System. Its
hot-houses possess an immense variety of curious exotics, and the
whole extent is little short of twenty acres. Luttrell's Town, 3 m.
from Dublin, through the Phœnix Park: a fine seat, with handsome lawn
bounded by rich woods, through which are many ridings 4 m. in extent,
leading through a romantic glen by the side of a stream falling over a
rocky bed, amidst the dark foliage of steep slopes through which the
Liffey is heard or seen at intervals; the whole is of great extent, and
forms a most picturesque retirement.
LEIXLIP is a pleasant town 8 m. W. of Dublin, on the very verge of the
county, with a good Inn.--See Carton (Kildare), the elegant seat of
the Duke of Leinster; also the Castle, with fine grounds and romantic
scenery: the ruins of Confy Castle; and beautiful vale watered by the
Liffey. Ballymore Eustace has a good bridge over the river, close
by where the Liffey issues from the romantic dell of Phollaphuca
(Wicklow). See ruins of a Castle. Lucan, 6 m., is a delightful village,
with sulphureous chalybeate in a grove on the banks of the river. See
the house and picturesque ground; also Iron-works, Calico-mills, and
Limestone quarries.
SWORDS is 6 m. N. of the capital, on the great northern road, and
contains several specimens of antiquity. See the Castle, of which a
large square tower with massy fragments of walls still remains; also
the ruins of the Ch., with a round tower 73 feet high and 55 in
circumference, in very good preservation. Here also were an Abbey and
Nunnery, of which some vestiges may yet be traced. At Brennanston,
about 8 m. N.W., see Druidical Cromlech, six upright, and 1 horizontal
stone, 14 feet long and 12 broad. Lusk, about 5 m. N., is highly
deserving the notice of the antiquary for the curious architecture of
its Ch., consisting of two long aisles, separated by a screen of seven
arches. The east end only is at present appropriated to public worship;
but the west end is remarkable for its square steeple with round towers
at three of the corners, whilst opposite to the fourth is a round tower
insulated, in very good preservation, and loftier than the others.
About 3 m. W. on a rising ground near to the bay of Mallahide, is a
curious old Castle, pleasantly situated on a rising ground, surrounded
by fine timber, commanding a most extensive and beautiful view of the
coast, together with a good prospect over the adjacent country; said to
have been either built, or to have received considerable repairs and
additions, in the reign of Edward IV. Latterly it has been solely used
as a family mansion, but formerly as a place of defence. The edifice
is large, irregular, and unequal in its height; it is nearly square,
and has an area or court within. The entrance is on the east front, by
a flight of stone steps; and the hall is large, its ancient appearance
corresponding well with the outside. There are ten rooms on a floor;
one of which, a parlour, is wainscoted with oak, which presents a
curious specimen of antique carving. The lower story is vaulted,
founded on a limestone rock, and contains the servants' offices.
MINERALS.
Crystals:--near Robs Well.
Coal slate, full of sulphur mixed with micaceous stones:--at Portrain.
Copper ore:--near Castle Knock, Cloghran, Rathbeal, &c.
_Gypsum striatum_, answers every purpose of plaster of Paris, and is
found in several places.
Iron manifests its presence in a coarse reddish earth:--at Turvey.
On the S.E. coast of Lough Shinney, between Rush and Skerries, there
are large rocks of the _Lapis Hibernicus_, or Irish slate, which in
some places exhibit a vitriolic efflorescence.
Lead ore:--in the quarry near Stephen's Green; at the Black rock; and
at Cloghran Church.
Limestone, hard, veined with quartz, impregnated with ferruginous
matter, and full of crystallizations:--at Howth.
Limestone quarries:--at Malahide.
Pearls are sometimes discovered in the Poolbeg oysters.
BOTANY.
_Agaricus alneus_, Alder Agaric:--in woods.
_Alchemilla vulgaris_, Common Ladies Mantle:--in Closes between
Glassmanogue and Finglass.
_Alisma Damasonium_, Star-headed Water Plantain:--in a pasture near
Temple-oge in Dublin.
_Allium vineale_, Crow Garlic:--above Island Bridge, and in some
meadows near Bally Griffin, in Fingall.
_Anthyllis vulneraria_, Kidney Vetch or Ladies Finger;--on dry hillocks
near the Bay.
_Asperula odorata_, Woodroof:--among bushes between Ropers Rest and
Mount Jerom.
_Asplenium Ruta muraria_, White Maiden-hair, or Wall-Rue:--at Tallagh
Castle and Ball's Bridge.
_Aster Tripolium_, Sea Starwort:--underneath the Black Rock.
_Brassica oleracea sylvestris_, Sea Cabbage:--on sea cliffs.
_Chrysanthemum segetum_, Corn Marygold:--near Iniscore Hill, and in
Patrick's Well Lane, Dublin.
_Chrysosplenium oppositifolium_, Common Golden Saxifrage:--near
Harold's Cross.
_Cochlearia anglica_, Sea Scurvy-grass:--among the short grass below
the Black Rock.
_Cochlearia danica_, Danish Scurvy-grass:--near Ringsend.
_Cochlearia officinalis_, Garden Scurvy-grass:--on the coast.
_Cotyledon Umbilicus Veneris_, Navel-wort, Kidney-wort, or Wall
Penny-wort:--on old buildings at Mitchel's-town, and on the wall of a
ruined Church at Lucan.
_Crambe maritima_, Sea Colewort:--on the sea beach near Dunleary.
_Drosera longifolia_, Long-leaved Sundew: near Edenderry.
_Empetrum nigrum_, Black-berried Heath, Crow or Crake-berries:--on
mountainous heaths.
_Erigeron acre_, Blue-flowered Flea-bane:--in a dry hilly pasture
facing the huts at the Black Rock.
_Eryngium maritimum_, Sea Holly or Eryngo:--Dublin.
_Erysimum cheiranthoides_, Treacle Wormseed:--about Temple-oge.
_Euphorbia hyberna_, Knotty-rooted Spurge:--on mountainous districts.
_Euphorbia paralia_, Sea Spurge:--on the sandy shore between the Warren
House and Rahany.
_Fucus palmatus_, Handed Fucus:--on rocks about Dalkey Island.
_Geranium sanguineum_, Bloody Crane's-bill:--in a close near Simon's
Court.
_Glaux maritima_, Sea Milkwort or Black Salt-wort:--above Bally-bough
Bridge near the rivulet.
_Hieracium murorum_, French or Golden Lungwort:--under a hedge on
Iniscore Hill.
_Lathræa Squamaria_, Toothwort:--on the sea shore between Dunleary and
Newton.
_Linum perenne_, Perennial Blue-flax:--on the lands of Simon's-court.
_Lysimachia tenella_, Purple Money-wort:--in a rotten spongy pasture
beyond Simon's-court and at Rathfarnham.
_Lithospermum officinale_, Gromwell:--at Iniscore Hills and above
Palmerstown Mills.
_Lycopodium clavatum_, Common Club-moss:--on mountains.
_Narcissus Pseudo-narcissus_, Daffodil:--in closes near Clontarf, the
Hill of Howth, and near Doulack's Well.
_Ophioglossum vulgatum_, Adders-tongue:--in moist places.
_Orchis pyramidalis_, Purple Lake-flowering Orchis:--on dry sea banks
between Newtown and Dunleary.
_Ornithogalum luteum_, Yellow Star of Bethlehem:--in a low meadow
between Finglass Bridge and Drumcondra.
_Osmunda Lunaria_, Moonwort:--on the hills, and in the pastures of
Palmerstown.
_Polemonium cæruleum_, Great Valerian:--at Rathfarnam.
_Rosa spinosissima_, Pimpernel or Burnet Rose:--on the edge of the brow
at Black Rock, and near Raheny Mills.
_Salsola fruticosa_, Shrub Stonecrop or Glasswort:--in Clontarf Island.
_Salsola Kali_, Prickly Glasswort:--near the Black Rock.
_Samolus Valerandi_, Round-leaved Water Pimpernel:--near Dalkey.
_Scilla verna_, Vernal Star Hyacinth:--in meadows and pastures, and
near Temple-oge.
_Statice Armeria_, Thrift or Sea July Flower:--between the Black Rock
and Dunleary.
_Viola grandiflora_, Yellow Violet or Pansies:--on the Hill of Howth.
EASTMEATH.
This county, sometimes only called Meath by preeminence, is an inland
district, except in one spot where it borders for a few miles on the
Irish Channel, between the shires of Louth and Dublin. It is inhabited
by a numerous and opulent gentry, with the mansions and highly
cultivated demesnes of many noblemen; and also contains numerous scenes
to please the antiquary, in its mouldering piles of ruined Castles and
Abbeys, frowning over the landscape in gloomy grandeur. Bounded by
Louth on the N., Monaghan and Cavan, W., Kildare, S., Dublin and the
Channel, E.
ATHBOY, 8 m. W. of Trim, is a tolerable town with a good inn, where
the tourist may fix his head-quarters whilst visiting the various
objects in the vicinity, particularly a farm of near 6000 Irish acres,
kept in hand by Sir Benjamin Chapman; also Ballinlough, the well
wooded seat of Sir Hugh O'Reilly. From hence, a road completely shaded
with trees leads to the seat of Mr. Tigh, at Mitchelstown, near which
are the grounds of Mr. Wood at Rosmead: indeed the whole neighbourhood
is well planted and populous.
DULEEK, about 15 m. E. from Trim; once a famous episcopal city, now
a paltry country town, but exhibiting in its ruin traces of former
celebrity; particularly in the remains of the Abbey with its majestic
tower, the first stone Ch. in Ireland. Grenogue, 4 m. S., has ruins
of an ancient Ch. Gormanstown, 6 m. E., ancient seat of Lord G.
Invercolpa, at the mouth of the Boyne, has some Abbey ruins. Kilbrue
is an elegant mansion, 5 m. S.; near it ruins of Macetown Castle.
Platten, 2 m., handsome seat built on the ruins of one of the largest
Castles on the island. Ratoath, 10 m. S., a poor village. See Ch.
erected on ruins of an ancient Abbey; also a lofty and conspicuous
mount, celebrated for meetings of Parliaments in feudal times. St.
John's Well, in this vicinity, is described by Mr. Wakefield as a
penitentiary station for pilgrims for five days in the latter end of
June.
KELLS, 12 m. N.W. of Trim, being pleasantly seated on the Blackwater,
forms a good station for the western part of the county. See the
Market-house on the site of an ancient Castle; also curious stone
Cross, much decayed, but decorated very richly with figures of men,
beasts, flowers, &c. Here is a remarkable round tower, 90 feet in
height and 16 in diameter, with walls 3 feet in thickness. It is close
to the Church, at an opposite corner of which, and detached, stands
a square tower with a spire, the remains of an ancient edifice now
destroyed. At the back of the town there is another small round tower;
also a small stone building arched with flags, called Columkill's
Cell, supposed to be the first Christian oratory erected here. The
Ch. is modern; and in the cemetery a curious sculptured cross. See
the noble mansion of the Marquis of Headfort in its vicinity, and its
extensive grounds.
NAVAN, 7 m. N.E. of Trim, stands very pleasantly on the Boyne, and
has a considerable trade. Its vicinity has much picturesque scenery
for the pedestrian tourist. See the Tholsel; and the remains of
several ancient tombs in the Abbey cemetery, adorned with sculpture.
The beautiful episcopal palace of Ardbraccan, 2 m. W., displaying
simplicity of design with accuracy of execution, is built of a
remarkable limestone with a very fine grain, found in the immediate
vicinity. The quarry is worth visiting. The limestone is capable of
being worked into any form for building; is susceptible of a fine
polish; and though white when it comes from the chisel, acquires
a sober grayish tint after exposure to the air. Its strata are
horizontal and of various degrees of thickness, from four inches to
two feet; and columns have been raised and worked of 9 or 10 feet
in length, and from 15 to 18 inches in diameter. A short distance
from Navan, close to the village of Donoghmore, and standing on an
eminence near the road leading to Slieve, is a round tower adorned
with sculptures of the Crucifixion over the doorway. It is not in very
good preservation; and the ancient Ch. attached to it is totally in
ruins. Dunmore Castle is a building of very early date, but almost
new built as a castellated house at the close of the 17th century,
and now presenting a curious specimen of those turbulent times in its
lofty towers and heavy walls, diversified only by a few windows close
to the battlements. In the vicinity of Dunshaghlen see Dunsany and
Killeen Castles, mansions of Lords Dunsany and Fingal. Near the latter
examine the Ch. and sepulchral antiquities. The tourist who is partial
to extensive prospects, may visit the Hill of Screen, on whose summit
is a Ch., presenting from the battlements of the ruined belfry a most
delightful view over a richly cultivated country. The edifice itself
is in a state of dilapidation, except part of a chapel fitted up for
divine service; but the antiquary may amuse himself with examining
an ecclesiastical figure in relief over the southern entrance; also
some crosses and curious old tombstones scattered over the surrounding
cemetery. At New Grange is a very curious specimen of early Celtic
antiquity, consisting of a most extensive barrow composed of stones
and earth, formed with infinite labour and exhibiting considerable
artificial dexterity. In this there is a cave which well deserves the
notice of the antiquary: from the horizontal floor of this cave to
the summit of the mount, is about 70 feet; the circumference at top
is 300; and the base covers two acres of ground; the whole founded on
an amazing collection of stones, and covered with gravel and earth.
Slane, about 6 m. N.E., on the N. side of the Boyne, presents several
curious ruins to the lover of antiquity. Some remains of an Abbey or
College; lofty tower with Gothic windows. Here is also a Hermitage,
said to be that of St. Ere, consecrated by St. Patrick in 512. Near
this, on the banks of the Boyne, see the magnificent seats of Earl
Conyngham (Slane Castle), and Mr. Lambert (Beaupark), whose grounds
have the appearance of one domain, being separated only by the river
running between romantic rocks, the summits and sides of which are
partly adorned with wood; and the union of this scenery, combined
with the dressed lawns of these two seats, renders the whole prospect
highly interesting. Tarah has long been celebrated in Irish history
as the place of coronation of the Irish monarchs. Here are some
remnants of Danish fortifications, and the ruins of a Ch., sombre and
picturesque. See ruins at Trevet.
TRIM, 22 m. N.W. of Dublin, is the assize town.--See picturesque ruins
of an ancient Castle, celebrated through all the periods of Irish
history; once the property of Mortimer Earl of March: situation
romantic; many ruins of Monasteries. The ruins of Bective Abbey stand
on a high bank of the Boyne, about 3 m. E. of Trim. Here the tourist
may contemplate the domestic range of buildings connected with the
Ch.; and, as the walls and division of the apartments are still pretty
entire, may form a very good idea of monastic manners. The S. side
a range of 12 arches, supported by clustered pillars, opens into a
gallery which also runs along the W. From this gallery is an opening
into a range of cells, gloomy and inconvenient, and seemingly fitter
for the dead than the living. The whole place is indeed sombre in
the extreme, with its Gothic doors and windows in several places,
and projecting towers and turrets. The outline is picturesque, and
deserves a visit. Clonard has some curious monuments in its Abbey
ruins. At Newton are the remains of the Ch., belonging to a monastery
founded in the 13th century; though much shattered, yet they have
once been august, and are now sweetly enveloped in ivy. Tradition
attributes (falsely) an ancient tomb to a daughter of King John. On
the road from Trim to Mitchelstown see the ruins of a square fortress
with circular turrets at the angles, called Scurlack's Town Castle,
seated on the borders of the river Boyne, which is here a silent
stream full of weeds and rushes.
MINERALS.
Limestone:--quarries at Ardbraccean, resembling marble.
Potter's clay:--has been discovered near Dunshaghlin; is deemed
superior to that of Staffordshire.
Vitrescent stone:--found in quarries near Slane.
BOTANY.
_Drosera anglica_, Great Sundew:--on a bog near Isaac-tower.
_Nymphæa alba_, White Water Lily:--in the Boyne and other rivers.
FERMANAGH.
This county will always be an object of interest to the tourist, on
account of Lough Erne, besides several smaller pieces of water, on all
of which are situated some of the finest mansions and demesnes in the
island. Its general surface is mountainous, interspersed with extensive
boggy tracts, which rendered it, in early times, almost impregnable,
when possessed by the sept of M'Guires. Bounded, S. and W. by Leitrim;
N. by Donnegal and Tyrone; E. by Monaghan and Cavan.
BELLCOO, 9 m. S.W. of Enniskillen, and on the verge of the county,
though a small is yet a neat village, and may form a station for the
tourist, being seated on a considerable stream that runs into Lough
Mac Nean, and thence to Lough Melve. The well called Davugh Phedric is
noted as a cold bath, and nearly equal to Holywell in force. See ruins
of Ch. 1 m. From hence also the tourist may visit Florence Court.
BELLEEK, 18 m. W. of Enniskillen, is a pretty village, with a very
fine waterfall: ascend a hill with a battery on its top, from whence
is seen a woody eminence with an insulated rock covered with shrubs,
along which the stream passes with great rapidity, falling about
twenty feet, and forming a most enchanting prospect. See it also from
the bridge. It stands at the outlet of the lake, close to the verge
of Donnegal. See Castle Caldwell on the northern shore, seated amidst
promontories of thick wood that shoot into Lough Erne, with every
variety of wood and lawn and water that can delight the eye. Near it
is Lewrel, a demesne of singular beauty.
ENNISKILLEN, 80 m. N.W. of Dublin, is nearly in the centre of the
county, and seated at the junction of the two divisions of Lough
Erne, so as to form a convenient station for the whole county. It was
celebrated in the wars of the Revolution by its heroic defence against
James's army; and part of the military works yet remain near the
bridge. See handsome barracks; superb school-house; and the Castle.
Visit Bellisle, the romantic residence of the late Lord Ross; Castle
Coole, 1 m. dist. Lord Belmore, an elegant mansion of Portland stone;
Daughtons, 4 m. N.W., where are some curious caves; Florence Court, 7
m. S.E., on the southern shore, a very superb modern edifice, seated
at the foot of lofty mountains, in the midst of a highly cultivated
demesne, with most romantic prospects.
LISNARICK, about 10 m. N.W. of Enniskillen, is a small hamlet, but may
suffice as a station for the northern bank of the lower lake. Close to
it is Castle Archdall, a magnificent mansion; and 2-1/2 m. further,
see Cash, an inconsiderable village, but amidst fine scenery, with
ruins of a Castle.
LISNESKEA, 12 m. E. of Enniskillen, is a decayed village, but may
serve as a temporary station for the Upper Lake; and as there are
many genteel residences in its immediate vicinity, the tourist, if
so inclined, may trust to Irish hospitality. See ruins of old Castle
at Calla Hill, across the lake; ruins of an old Ch. at Donough, 2
m. S.E.; Gola, 5 m. W., with some remains of a Dominican monastery;
Newton Butler with a handsome Ch.; and Wattle Bridge, where are some
fragments of a Druidical temple on the banks of the river; also St.
Mary's Ch., and two small lakes.
LOUGH ERNE is 20 m. in length, and covers nearly 48,000 acres. It
has been little noticed by tourists; yet its beauties deserve some
leading directions. Those who have time to spare, or the artist
who wishes to devote his time to study, may employ a few days very
agreeably in perambulating its limits, so as to catch each point of
view under the various effects of morning and evening tint, or even
noon-tide radiance; but where a day only can be allowed for seeing
it, that day will be most profitably spent on the island of Bellisle,
where the Earl of Ross has a most delightful residence. Here we may
introduce an observation, regard to which will often be highly useful
to the picturesque tourist.--It is, that the same view presents a very
different appearance when seen at the commencement and at the close of
day. In no part of the world is this, perhaps, more noticeable, than
in Ireland, owing to its moisture, raised into vapour by a meridian
sun, condensed by cold winds rushing in through extended valleys,
through the day, settling in the dells or fringeing the mountain
tops in the still repose of evening, or rising like a curtain at the
influence of the morning beam. In pursuance then of this hint, the
hurried tourist, especially if pedestrian, should proceed to Bellisle
at the earliest dawn, and he will find himself sufficiently occupied
until the nightfall in traversing its limits round an extent of 200
acres consisting of all the variety of hill and dale, with partial
sprinklings of lawn, interspersed with ancient woods of considerable
extent, in some spots exhibiting all the deep majesty of shade, in
others opening into more cheerful clumps, or scattered breaks of
foliage. The varied surface exhibits the whole contents of this woody
scenery to great advantage, presenting, even in what may be called
the home views, sufficient amusement for a day; but much increased
by its junction with the surrounding scenery at every break in the
hills, and at every verdant point jutting into the lake, particularly
so in front of the mansion, where a reach of it passes under the eye
of the spectator, reflecting the fine woods and rising banks that give
beauty to the scene and shelter to the house itself. This part of the
lake, being 3 m. in length, possesses all the charms of distance, and
has in front another island clothed thick with wood encircling a bold
eminence, appropriated to the purposes of a deer park, in the rear of
which a lofty mountain gives almost a magic relief to the whole. This
is finely contrasted, on a short turn to the right, by some clumps
of rich foliage, and by several pretty islands starting boldly from
the surface, broken into a thousand picturesque forms by the windings
of the lake, and the whole body of water is lost in a narrow defile
where hill on hill closes the view. Here too is every facility for
viewing the lake in a double route; as the walks most commodiously
surround the island at its outermost limits, besides leading to the
best points of view in the interior; and indeed it will be proper not
to omit the prospect from a handsome temple which commands the whole
of this enchanting scenery. The grotto ought also to be visited, and
attention paid to the effect on coming out of it, when the contrast
presents a beautiful effect, in two of these islands appearing to
join, the streight between them having the semblance of a deep bay,
whose extremity is lost amidst the sombre foliage in the back-ground.
Behind these is the hill of the deer park, the lofty mountains behind
which for a moment draw attention from the nearer beauties; but these
latter must not be neglected, as their examination in all the neatness
of artificial culture contrasts finely with the bleak and wild
surrounding imagery of nature. The widest part of the loch is in the
vicinity of Castle Archdall, where it resembles the sea, and presents
a charming panoramic prospect if viewed from the little island of
Ennismachcent, no less than 27 isles and islets surrounding the
spectator. The prospect to the N. is the finest, when Castle Archdall
is seen in all its glory of wood and water reaching on the left to a
noble bay of considerable extent, bounded by lofty mountains softening
into distance, and shrouding in their bosom a much venerated Roman
Catholic cemetery, with a large stone cross standing on a pedestal at
its entrance.
In Lough Erne, the most celebrated island for holy purposes is
_Devenish_, in which there are a round tower and considerable
ecclesiastical ruins, some as early as the 12th century. These
buildings are of the Augustinian order of monks; and the most ancient
part is called St. Molaise's House, a vaulted building of hewn stone;
coeval with which, in Mr. Ledwich's opinion, is the round tower; and
both, as he supposes, of Danish origin.
MINERALS.
The mineralogist will find little here to interest him; but the
geologist may discover much food for research; especially in the bogs
that lie N. of Enniskillen, where sea shells are often found mixed
in strata of white clay, 15 feet below the surface. This clay is
calcareous; and the whole, in process of time, may become a bed of
marble.
BOTANY.
_Bryum flexuosum_, Soft Bryum:--on rocks.
_Cicuta virosa_, Long-leaved Water Hemlock:--in watery places and
rivers, in Fermanagh.
_Serapias latifolia_:--a variety of broad-leaved Bastard Hellebore; in
woods and hedges.
_Vaccinium Myrtillus_, Black Whorts, Whortle-berries, or
Bilberries:--on heaths and in woods.
GALWAY.
This county is maritime, and of great extent, being the second in the
island. It contains several lakes; but as the scenery round these is
not very romantic, they are but little known to the tourist; and the
aspect is not improved by the dry stone walls or hedges; except in the
western district, where the beautiful shores of Lough Corrib will repay
the trouble of a visit, through an extensive tract of irreclaimable bog
and mountain. On the sea coast it is picturesquely broken by numerous
arms of the sea; and its rivers deserve the notice of the inquisitive
tourist. Dr. Beaufort observes, that several of these rivers are
subterraneous in part of their course: near the village of Shrull,
on the borders of Mayo, the Black river runs under ground for about
3 miles; but the most remarkable fact is that of the Moyne and the
Clare, which unite their streams under ground, alternately appearing
and retiring from view at the Turlachmore, which in winter forms a
lake and in summer a beautiful and sound sheepwalk, upwards of 6 m. in
length and 2 in breadth. Bounded W. by the Atlantic; N. by Mayo; N.E.
by Roscommon; E. by King's County, Tipperary, and the Shannon; S. by
Clare, and Galway bay.
AGHRIM, 24 m. E. of Galway, is a small village; but noticeable as
the scene of battle between Ginkle and St. Ruth in the war of the
Revolution, 12th July, 1691, when the latter, with his French and
Irish army, was completely defeated. The scene of action was on
Kilcomodon Hill. See the beautiful demesne of Ballydonnellan, also
Ballydugan; ruins of old Castles; and the magnificent demesne of Wood
Lawn. But this place and its surrounding scenery may be visited from
Loughrea.
ATHENRY, 10 m. N.E. of Galway, now in decay; once a strong English
fortification; its walls built in 1211. See Dominican monastery, noble
even in its ruins. The tower and several of the gable windows are very
fine; but its appearance is much altered by a part having been fitted
up for the reception of the garrison, the cloisters forming the
modern barrack-yard. Ancient Castle of the Lords Birmingham, in ruins;
with lofty tower and ivy-mantled walls, affording a good idea of the
feudal manners on the borders of the Pale. At Knockmoy, 7 m. N., see
ruins of a monastery, with an ancient tomb of the O'Connors adorned
with sepulchral mementos in fresco painting.
BALLINASLOE, 30 m. E. of Galway, is on the very verge of the county,
and interesting to the statistical tourist from its autumnal fair for
cattle, under the immediate patronage of the Farming Society. (_See
further Mr. Curwen's Letters_, vol. ii. p. 229.)
CLONFERT, 30 m. E. of Galway, is an ancient bishopric.--Visit the
beautiful ruins of the Cathedral, especially the W. front (1270).
This was the scene of frequent battles during the irruptions of the
Danes. Hall speaks highly of this place; observing, that the planting
and improvement about the Bishop's Palace render Clonfert a little
paradise. Visit Shannon Bridge and the round tower, at a place called
the Seven Churches.
GALWAY, the county town, is 102 m. W. of Dublin, formerly fortified
and celebrated in the wars of the Revolution; but now dismantled, and
every trace disappearing. The architecture of the old town gloomy
and massive; of the suburbs, elegant and airy. See 3 Nunneries,
3 Friaries, and 3 Barracks; Court-houses; Infirmary; magnificent
Gothic Ch.; massy Gaol; and coarse woollen manufacture. The bay is
very fine, sheltered at its entrance by the isles of Arran; but the
country around is described by Mr. Curwen as having the most singular
appearance he ever beheld, resembling the seat of a volcanic eruption
from the immense blocks of limestone scattered over a space of great
extent, with scarce a symptom of vegetation. See ruined tower of
Ballensnave Castle; Caher Morres, a small hamlet, 11 m. N., but with
good inn, as a station for the northern shores of Lough Corrib; Clare
Galway, ancient Abbey, with lofty tower and fine Gothic east window;
also splendid ruins of a strongly built castle; Dun Aengus in the
greater isle of Arran, is a circle of large stones on a lofty cliff, a
remnant of ancient fortification: Rosserally has extensive ruins of a
monastery (1498). Turlaghmore, already alluded to, may from hence be
visited.
LOUGH CORRIB possesses some romantic scenery; and is about 20 m. long,
and at the broadest part 11; being contracted in the middle so as to
appear like two lakes. The collector may here pick up some very good
specimens of pearls from a muscle peculiar to the lake. The scenery on
its western shores is a chain of wild and stupendous mountains, with
some few fertile valleys. It contains many pretty islands; and here
is caught the gillaroo trout, with a gizzard like a fowl, esteemed
a great delicacy. Headfort, on its northern shore, is a well-built
village, with venerable Ch. and barrack; near it an ancient mansion of
the St. George family.
LOUGH DERG is a wide reach of the Shannon, which may be visited from
Portumna. In it is a beautiful island, on which is a round tower 70
feet high, and the remains of 7 Churches.
LOUGH REA, 16 m. E. of Galway, is a well built village, and will
receive the tourist in exploring the eastern district as a central
station. See the fine lake; pleasing prospects; ruins of the old
Castle of the De Burghs; various castle ruins in the vicinity.
Dalystown, the handsome mansion and demesne of the Daly family. Gort,
10 m. S.W., is a neat though small village, 2 m. from which ruins of
Cathedral at Kilmacduagh, and round tower 112 feet high, inclining
17-1/2 feet from the perpendicular, being 4 more than the tower of
Pisa. Here are places called the Swallows, into which several streams
are engulfed, and rise afterwards into day. Kilconnel Abbey, in ruins,
has a lofty tower and some fine arcades.
OUCHTERARD, 20 m. N.W. from Galway, is a small village, but forms
a good station for the tourist who will persevere in examining
the western district of the county. Here is a chalybeate, and its
situation is considered peculiarly salubrious. If the tourist chooses,
he may penetrate to Ballynahinch, a small village, but worthy a visit,
being situated in that district called Connemara; mountainous, and
intersected by numerous bays affording great diversity of scenery. It
stands at the foot of the vast ridge of Beannabeola, or the Twelve
Pins, consisting principally of perpendicular rocks, with a charming
lake extending for several miles in its immediate vicinity; round
which the hills are watered by rivers and small lakes, and sheltered
by the venerable remains of ancient woods, among which are to be found
a simple rude people, inhabiting what is generally called "Joyce's
Country," forming a distinct class in manners and in appearance.
The western shores of Lough Corrib may be visited from Ouchterard;
also Lough Mask. See also the small district of Ross, N. of it, a
sequestered spot, whose solitary wilds have scarcely yet been trod by
civilized man.
PORTUMNA, 30 m. S.E. of Galway, and on the banks of Lough Derg,
forms a good station for that district.--A neat village with wooden
bridge across the Shannon. See the Castle, a venerable mansion of the
Clanricards: ruins of an Abbey, walls nearly entire, the choir of
parish Ch. Eyre Court, 2 m., a straggling village. See the venerable
Castle. Numerous ruins of Castles in the vicinity. At Tynagh see
ruins of Palace Castle in the midst of a grove; also the Ch. Near it
Flowerhill, a delightful residence of Lord Riverston. Spring Garden,
and other good seats of the gentry.
TUAM, 16 m. N.E. of Galway; large and populous.--See Cathedral;
venerable Palace; elegant Mall. See Claddagh Castle in a wild and
sombre district; Dunmore, with ruins of an Abbey; Newton Butler and
Castle Bellaw, a fine seat, with ruins of a Castle.
BOTANY.
_Aquilegia vulgaris_, Columbine:--in woods near Clunetuescart.
_Crithmum maritimum_, Samphire:--in the Isles of Arran.
_Cyclamen europæum_, Sowbread:--at Milleek.
_Erica Daboicia_, Irish Heath:--on the mountains.
_Gentiana campestris_, Vernal Dwarf Gentian:--on the mountains between
Gort and Galway.
_Juniperus communis_, Juniper:--on mountains.
_Lycopodium Selago_, Upright Fir-moss:--on the mountains near Galway.
_Senecio saracenicus_, Broad-leaved Ragwort:--in meadows and pastures
and under hedges in Pallace near Tynagh.
[Illustration: _Engraved for the Scientific Tourist._
THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY.
_Published by J. Booth, Duke Street, Portland Place, 1818._]
KERRY.
Famous in Ireland as the landing-place of the Milesians. This county
was long impassable for tourists; but much has been done by the
resident gentlemen, who have shortened many of the old roads, carrying
them in straight lines over rocks and morasses, deep glens and rugged
mountains; so that not only the approach to the Lakes of Killarney, but
also to many other interesting tracts, is much facilitated. It is a
maritime district, indented with numerous bays and harbours; rugged and
mountainous, but justly celebrated for its lake and mountain scenery.
It has been observed indeed by Mr. Wakefield, that in this county the
attention of the tourist is so much occupied with Killarney, that the
romantic scenery in other parts is either overlooked or forgotten;--yet
it ought not to be consigned to neglect, as there is a great deal of it
(though inferior to that of Killarney) which is still worthy of being
noticed. Bounded on the N. by the Shannon; on the S. and W. by the
Atlantic Ocean; and on the E. by Cork and Limerick counties.
ARDFERT, 4 m. N.W. of Tralee, is now a decayed village, though
an episcopal see in early times. It has the ruins of a splendid
Cathedral, with curious monuments and gravestones, and a sculptured
figure of St. Brandon. Ruins of round tower. To the E., ruins of
Franciscan Friary, a venerable structure, from whence follow road
leading to the sea and mansion of the Crosbie family. Visit Ballyheigh
bay with fine strand; ancient Castle of Ballykeal; Castle on Ferrit
Island; Kerryhead surrounded by picturesque and savage wildness;
Kilcroghan, where is a curious hermitage cut in the rock, also a
Danish fortification; Lixnaw the ancient seat of the Earls of Kerry;
Odorney Abbey in ruins; remains of Rahanane Castle, once an episcopal
residence; and lofty round tower at Rattoo. The tourist must employ a
guide in surveying this district.
CASTLE ISLAND, 9 m. E. of Tralee, a decayed village on the route to
Killarney, though anciently the shire town. See parish Ch.; roofless
town house, barracks, &c.--As there are some decent inns, the tourist
may from hence visit some of the scenery to the E. of Killarney.
DINGLE, 16 m. W. of Tralee, forms a station for the wild western
district.--See Gaol built on vaults of Old Castle. Notice the various
houses built in Spanish fashion, with stone balconies. See the
mansion of the Knight of Kerry; the ruins of an ancient Monastery;
also of part of the old parish Ch. and monuments of the Fitzgerald
family. 1 m. N.E. see the vitriolic spa of Ballybeg; also Burnham, or
Ballingolin Castle. Whilst exploring the wild beauty of this vicinity,
the tourist will be amply repaid for his labour, by a journey across
the Brandon mountains towards Tralee Bay. The views which they afford
are highly picturesque, and the prospects from almost every eminence
are very extensive. Ventry Bay merits investigation; on the western
point, Caher Trant, are remains of a Danish entrenchment, and another
at Rathanane, near a ruined Castle of the Fitzgeralds; also a stone
Cell near it. Some historical interest is given to this isthmus, by
a tradition that it was the last ground in Ireland possessed by the
Danes; and there is a curious story about it in Hanmer's Chronicle,
illustrative of the manners of those early times. A little further
west is what is esteemed the _furthest_ extremity of the island, to
which, like Johnny Groat's house in Caithness, is given "a local
habitation and a name," its appellation being "Tyvorney Geerane," or
_Molly Geerane's house_. From hence the tourist may visit Blasket
Islands, remarkable for the simplicity of the inhabitants, for ancient
religious ruins, and for a great variety of aquatic fowls, some
rivalling the ortolan.
IVERAGH BARONY forms the S.W. extremity of Ireland, and will afford
great delight to a tourist who fears not fatigue and privations.
Visit the romantic Lake of Currane, of an oval form, 3 m. in length,
surrounded by lofty mountains. In it are three small islands; on one
of which, ruins of a Ch. and Cell, with marks of foundations under
water. See the river Inny, with ruins of Ch. and Bridge. Dowles
Head is near Valentine Island: here are several large Caves, one
of which has an entrance so low as scarcely to admit a boat with
a man standing up, but within it is as high as a Gothic cathedral.
There is a most curious echo; and when a person speaks, his voice
is so reverberated from side to side as to seem louder than a
speaking-trumpet. Glanbehy parish, the easternmost of the barony of
Iveragh, has a most romantic but dangerous road, resembling that
of Penmonmawr in Wales; and over which indeed, according to the
traditions of the country, none but poets should attempt to pass;
since in the opinion of its neighbours it is necessary to make some
verses to its honour, otherwise, as they affirm, the traveller will
meet with some mischance. Perhaps it was some similar superstition
that gave rise to the custom of the _album_ in the monasteries
situated in the mountainous passes of Switzerland and Italy. The
Hags-tooth mountain is of great height, with many romantic lakes.
Visit the Skelig Islands, containing several ecclesiastical ruins,
and the scene of modern pilgrimages. They offer much amusement to the
geologist. Valentia, in this district, affords slight accommodation.
KENMARE is a small neat town, within the compass of the Killarney
tour, and a good station for much romantic scenery.--The approach to
this town, even before it is seen, is very romantic; along a road
winding up to the summit of a mountain, between which and another
of tremendous altitude, is a deep glen, where the scenery is much
improved by the contrast of the superincumbent rugged barrenness.
"Here," says Mr. Wakefield, "the eye is sometimes attracted by
a solitary herd of goats browsing among the heath below; while
cultivation, gradually extending up the sides of the hills, forms a
pleasing contrast with the desert and more prominent features of the
prospect." In the vicinity are several small islands in Kenmare river,
consisting of beautiful specimens of variegated marble. These islands
are also interesting to the botanical tourist, from the varieties of
Arbutus and Juniper, with the immense number of marine and aquatic
plants which fringe their romantic sides. See the Fairy rock, and
Glanerought vale.
KILLARNEY, 12 m. S.W. of Tralee, and 144 from Dublin, is the general
station for viewing the Lakes, which take from it their usual
appellation; but properly Lough Lane. It is a pleasant little town,
and affords every comfort required by the traveller; but its great
charm is in the Lakes, about 1 m. distant. A minute description of
this beautiful scene is beyond our limits: we shall therefore briefly
record the objects that deserve examination--but, for the convenience
of the solitary tourist, to whom the expense of the usual exploratory
routine would be enormous, shall first point out a route that will
amply gratify the finest taste and the most insatiable curiosity.
After visiting Mucruss Abbey, take a guide at the foot of Turk's
mountain, and by a circuitous path climb its almost precipitous sides
covered with wood, pursuing the course of a little stream that dashes
from rock to rock concealed amongst shrubs and trackless underwood,
through which brush your way with some little exertion until you
arrive at an eminence opposite Eagle-crag, from whence at one _coup
d'œil_ you take in the three lakes with their adjacent scenery. Here
you view the lower lake like a circular bason, bounded on one side by
romantic mountains, and having the rest of its banks finely studded
with the town of Killarney, the seat of Lord Kenmare, Ross Castle
stretching into the Lake, Mucruss Abbey, and villa, together with
its numerous archipelago of islands, richly fringed with the arbutus
tree. The lake is then seen contracting into a narrow passage with a
small bridge, thence to Mucruss Lake at your feet, of an oval form,
and perpetually wearing a gloomy and solemn appearance from the dark,
sullen shadow of Turk's Mountain that frowns upon it, covered half way
up with sombre firs. Beyond this is Mangerton, the highest mountain
in Ireland, at whose foot a serpentine stream unites the upper lake
with the others, traversing a valley or dell between Turk's Mountain
and the Eagle's Nest; behind the latter of which, the seat of the
celebrated echo, you will see the sublime chain of mountains called
M'Gillicuddy's Reeks. If your good fortune shall place you in this
situation whilst visiting parties are traversing the lakes with their
et-cetera of horns and swivels, then the effect is most sublime,
infinitely more so than can be felt by the tourists on the bosom of
the lake. Return by the Flesk bridge, and conclude the tour by a visit
to Aghadoe, Ross Castle, and any other objects that may
be pointed out by the numerous guides who frequent this interesting
spot. To facilitate general investigation, we shall now sketch the
routes, and record a few observations of the most recent tourists. The
lakes are three in number: the largest, or Lower Lake, contains 3000
acres; Mucruss Lake, to the south, covers 640 acres; and the Upper
Lake has 720. Mr. Wakefield observes that since Mr. Young's visit to
Killarney, the timber which clothed the mountain Glenaa has been cut
down, and the stumps are now copsed; but the young trees had not yet
(1812) attained to a great size, being only twenty feet in height.
At that period, however, they were sufficient to cover the mountain
with foliage, which, waving before the breeze, gave it a much more
lively and agreeable appearance. The trees also on the islands near
the town have fallen under the destructive axe,--a loss much to be
regretted by the lovers of sylvan beauty, as it cannot be repaired
until after a lapse of many years. Mr. Wakefield adds, however, for the
satisfaction of the picturesque tourist, that although it is a general
complaint that the views of Killarney have been destroyed by those
sweeping falls of timber, yet he only acknowledges them to be "injured,
no doubt, in some small degree; but the views here are still almost
unrivalled, particularly in regard to that species of beauty which
arises from mountain scenery of the most magnificent kind, and which
the hand of man has not the power to alter. It will therefore remain
to delight every traveller who has the pleasure of seeing it, unless
the face of the country should be changed by some grand convulsion of
nature." As a further guide to the tourist it may be mentioned here
that Mr. Wakefield recommends the bridge which joins the peninsula to
Breechan Island, as a fine station for a view. The peninsula itself he
considers as very fine: to the S., see Mangerton and Turk mountains
in all their glory, sinking down to the rugged point at the Eagle's
Nest, where there is a view of Glenaa, the immediate foreground being
filled up with Breechan and Dyne's Islands, beyond which is seen the
Lower Lake, with Ross Castle, whilst the distance is completed by the
town of Killarney, and the island of Innisfallen. The Upper Lake he
describes as an immense reservoir, in a hollow between stupendous
mountains, the rugged, rocky, and almost perpendicular sides of which
may be said to overhang the water, whilst the whole scenery is of the
most awful and extraordinary kind, such as very seldom occurs, and on
a scale of magnificence hardly to be equalled any where else, except
in the wildest districts of Switzerland. Sir R. C. Hoare observes,
that the collected beauties of this favoured spot are so great, so
varied, and so superior to any thing that he had ever seen in Italy,
Switzerland, or England, that to delineate or describe them he felt
impossible. His route was to embark at Ross Castle, then stretch across
to Innisfallen and see ruins of Abbey thickly embosomed in wood; thence
in a westerly direction to O'Sullivan's Cascade, finely disposed in
a thick forest, whence he coasted under Tomies mountain, where the
view opens magnificently at Glenaa Point, where see the cottage. From
thence to Turk's Lake under Brickeen bridge. See Turk's Mountain,
majestic and perpendicular. Back to Glenaa Cottage to dine, and return
to Killarney. On the following day proceed to Mucruss; ruins of Abbey:
eminence in park, with bewitching view of Mucruss, Lower Lake, and
distant mountains, a most exquisite panorama. The Upper Lake occupied
a third day. Embark at Ross Island. Stretch across to Glenaa, where
tourists must land whilst the boat is tracked or pushed up a shallow
stream. Examine the arbutus. The boat is again tracked at the old weir
bridge, where view the Eagle's Nest, and fire a swivel for the echo,
or sound the bugle-horn. Enter the Upper Lake; view the Sugar-loaf,
the reeks, and Purple mountain. Accommodation at cottage on Ronan's
Island; but the tourist must carry his own provender. See long-extended
range of rock and wood at Cromiglaun; descend the lake, and notice the
numerous grotesque insulated rocks and romantic bays. A fourth day
spent in visiting the N.E. shores of the lake by land, leads to the
gap of Dunlo, scenery truly alpine, and highly deserving the artist's
attention. Mr. Weld's routes can only be followed by a resident tourist;
but we must record his recommendation to view the lakes by moonlight.
Miss Plumptre first ascended Mangerton, and praises the effect of a
bugle-horn at the Devil's Punch-bowl. On a second day she visited
the Upper Lake; then the Lower; and on a third day, the Gap of Dunlo,
Dunlo Castle; finishing on the fourth, by visiting Mucruss, the scenery
in its vicinity, and Turk's Lake. Mr. Curwen embarked at Ross Island,
visited the rock called O'Donoghue's prison, Cherry Island, Glenaa,
the first day. The second day was spent on the Lower Lake; thence to
Turk's Lake, Upper Lake, Eagle's Nest, Ronan's Island; alpine scenery
of M'Gillicuddy's reeks, 3695 feet, and superior in effect of sublimity
to Mont Blanc. Return by Turk's Lake and through the islands to Ross.
Having recommended the ascent of Mangerton to the tourist, it may be
proper to point out the objects which will then gain his attention;
and, on this route, following Mr. Wakefield, it may be observed that
on attaining a certain height, the Lower Lake, then the only one
visible, has the appearance of an inundated marsh; but, ascending
still further, the channel to the Upper Lake and a fine expanse of
mountain scenery burst suddenly upon the view, as if by some magic
charm; the whole forming a most extensive landscape, enriched by the
variety of tints arising from the aërial perspective fading into the
remotest distance. Near the summit is the crater of an extinguished
volcano, now called the Devil's Punch-bowl, but little more than a
large hole filled with water; proceeding a little beyond this, a new
prospect opens with grand effect upon the eye, showing the Iveragh
mountains like an ocean of wild confusion, with that large arm of the
sea, called Kenmare river, stretching a great way inland, and beyond
all, the wide expanse of the mighty Atlantic, seeming in the distant
horizon to unite its azure surface with the fainter coloured sky: to
the S. is seen Cape Clear; to the N. are the blue Dingle mountains,
M'Gillicuddy's reeks immediately towering above the spectator, whilst
the eye, glancing towards the interior of the island, catches a partial
view of the far distant Galtee mountains of Tipperary. Grand as this
panorama must be, the guides will hold out a strong temptation to the
adventurous tourist to attempt the enjoyment of one still finer by
the ascent of M'Gillicuddy's reeks, from whence the harbour of Cork
appears like a map extended at the spectator's feet, whilst to the S.W.
may be seen many of those huge headlands which form so conspicuous a
feature in that part of the Irish coast. Here too the Dingle mountains
dwindle into mere hills, and Brandon hill, which, when near it, seems
so tremendous, now appears little more than a hillock; whilst the
eye passes over Tralee bay as a small indentation of the sea, hardly
worth while to notice, and lost in the extent of the bay of Galway
and the mountains which surmount it. In short, says Mr. Wakefield--an
observation highly deserving the tourist's attention--those who go to
Killarney without ascending _one_ of those commanding heights, though
they may come away delighted with the high gratification derived from
the rich scenery of Mucruss, the beautiful appearance of the islands
emerging from the crystal flood, and astonished by the singularly wild
and rugged views which the Upper Lake affords; yet will they know
nothing of those grand, awful, and sublime scenes exhibited by nature,
where objects of the most terrific kind are united in the wildest and
most fantastical manner, exciting sensations not easily described in
the mind of the admiring spectator. Nor will the ascent of Mangerton
be found a difficult task even to the most timid: for various gulleys,
hollowed out by the winter torrents, afford a road so easy, that the
greatest part of the ascent may be accomplished on horseback. The
tourist must expect to find his expenses considerable: he must carry
his own provisions; and is expected to find provisions for his guides,
or pay 2s. each per day extra. These guides will also force themselves
upon him to a much greater extent than is necessary. The rates of the
boats are regulated by Lord Kenmare's order; but the boatmen always
expect more. The most remarkable objects in the vicinity are Aghadoe,
2 m. from Killarney, with fine view of the lake, with ruins of Ch.;
at Ardtully, a geological curiosity of two rocks, one limestone upon
a gritty soil, the other grit upon a limestone basis; Blackstones,
a small village in the mountains amidst romantic scenery; Dunkerran
Castle, of high antiquity; Dunlo, already mentioned: Glanfesk valley
beyond the Upper Lake; Glanerought vale towards Kenmare bay, highly
picturesque and romantic: at Kilgarvan, near it, the Fairy rock, amidst
the mountains, with impressions of human feet; Killagh Abbey, a few
miles E., in good preservation, a ruin with noble Gothic window; and
ruins of Kilcolman Ch.
[Illustration:
_T. Fielding fc._
_Lake & Mountains at Killarney_]
TARBERT, 20 m. N.E. of Tralee, is a thriving village, and contains a
Sessions House, and a good inn with convenient accommodation. Upon
a gentle eminence in the outskirts, stands the Ch. with a handsome
steeple. Near to it is the Public School. To the left of it is Tarbert
House, the seat of Sir Edward Leslie, in a situation which bears a
striking resemblance to Mount Edgcumbe. Tarbert is a good station for
those who wish to examine the romantic scenery at the entrance of the
river Shannon; especially as extending westward towards the ocean.
A ride along that coast first presents Rusheen, a pleasing seat and
plantations, and Lislaghtin Abbey, with a good view of Scattery Island;
then the island and Castle of Carrigfoile, anciently a fortified
mansion of the O'Connors, almost impregnable in situation. Beyond this
see the ruins of Beal Castle, the seat of a horrid murder detailed
in the _Pacata Hibernia_. Its vicinity is romantic, commanding fine
prospects, and abounding in game. To the west of it is a high cliff,
called the Devil's Castle, inaccessible to all but the winged creation,
whilst the shore at its base presents a great variety of romantic
caverns formed by the dashing of the waves of a turbulent ocean,
overshadowed by cliffs of most impressive grandeur.
LISTOWELL, between Tarbert and Tralee, is a neat little town on the
banks of the Feal, with a decent inn. See the remains of an old Castle
with a very high circular headed arch. On the banks of the river, see
Woodford, with some remains of an ancient Castle, the seat of the
Knight of Kerry.
TRALEE, 144 m. S.W. of Dublin, is a corporate and assize town, with a
neat square in the centre surrounded by the Court-house and Gaol.--See
the old Castle of the Desmonds, the Parish Ch., and some remains of
an ancient Dominican Convent. The town is finely situated at the
bottom of an extensive bay, surrounded by lofty mountains. Near it is
a chalybeate spring. 2-1/2 m. see Ballybegan, with ruins of ancient
Castle, and some curious caves, with a subterranean river, and various
specimens of stalactite; also a quarry of dark grey marble interspersed
with spar. Mineralogists may trace a vein of potter's lead ore
running amongst the limestone rocks. Castlemain, about 4 m. S., is an
inconsiderable place, but presents some pretty scenery on the river
Mang which falls into the bay. Between Tralee Bay and Castlemain, are
the lofty mountains of Sliebhmish. On the top of Cahir Conregh is a
circle of massy stones, by some supposed Druidical, by others Danish.
MINERALS.
Mangerton mountain abounds in variety of minerals; whetstones;
argillaceous iron ore; red and brown iron stones; spicular iron ore,
adhering to quartz; and numerous siliceous stones, but no calcareous
specimens.
Transparent crystals, generally known under the name of Kerry stones,
are found in various parts. Many of these resemble the diamond in
its property of cutting glass, but soon lose their hardness. The
mineralogist must principally direct his search for them amongst the
rocks and cliffs on the sea coast. Coloured crystals are found in the
vicinity of the lakes: these often resemble emeralds, topazes, and
sapphires. Some real amethysts have also been discovered.
Near Castle Island is found the once famous _Lapis hibernicus_, or
Irish slate, formerly of some officinal reputation, abounding in common
green copperas, or martial vitriol; also at Tralee.
At Dune, near Tralee, are pyrites, with sulphur, and iron ore.
Extensive iron works formerly existed at Glencarne, especially near
Blackstairs.
A salino-nitrous spring at Magherybeg rises out of the sand;
antiscorbutic.
BOTANY.
_Andromeda polifolia_, Marsh Cistus or Wild Rosemary: in bogs in
Iveragh and Dunkerron baronies, and near Isaac-town.
_Arbutus Unedo_, Strawberry-tree:--on rocks and mountains about Lough
Lane.
_Artemisia campestris_, Field Southern-wood:--in a field near Castle
Island.
_Asplenium Adiantum nigrum_, Common Black Maiden-hair:--on the
mountains.
_Asplenium Ceterach_, Spleenwort or Milkwort:--on rocks.
_Asplenium Ruta muraria_, White Maiden-hair, Wall Rue or Tentwort:--in
a rocky cavern near Blackstones.
_Asplenium Trichomanes_, English Black Maiden-hair:--on the rocks in
various parts.
_Astragalus arenarius_, Purple Mountain Milkwort; on the mountains
about the Lake of Killarney.
_Atriplex portulacoides_, Sea Purslane:--near the river Mang near
Callinafersy.
_Atriplex serrata_, Indented Sea Orache:--on the banks of the river
Galey, plentifully.
_Cardamine bellidifolia_, Daisy-leaved Ladies' Smock:--in the islands
of Lough Lane.
_Cheiranthus sinuatus_, Sea Stock:--near Beal Castle towards the
Shannon mouth.
_Chenopodium maritimum_, Sea Blite or White Glasswort:--on the shore
near Callinafersy, the bottom of Castlemain harbour.
_Cineraria alpina_, Mountain Ragwort:--on the side of Knockanore
mountain, near Fell's Spa, in the barony of Iragticonnor.
_Cineraria palustris_, Marsh Flea-bane:--in ditches in the barony of
Clanmaurice.
_Convallaria majalis_, Lily Convally, or May Lily:--in the island of
Innisfallen.
_Cratægus Aria_, White Beam Tree:--in woods and hedges in a mountainous
or chalky soil, plentifully.
_Cucubalus acaulis_, Moss Campion:--on the rocky mountains in Dukerron
near Blackstones.
_Draba muralis_, Speedwell-leaved Whitlow Grass:--on mountains near the
southern part of Lough Lane.
_Drosera rotundifolia_, Round-leaved Sundew:--in moist grounds near
Lixnaw.
_Dryas octopetala_, Mountain Elder:--on hills near passage into the
upper lake at Killarney.
_Echium italicum_, Wall Viper's Bugloss:--in sandy ground in Ballyheigh
Bay near Ferrit.
_Equisetum hyemale_, Rough Horsetail or Shave-grass:--in a bog through
which the river Buck runs near Lixnaw.
_Eryngium maritimum_, Sea Holly or Eryngo:--on sandy shores.
_Euphorbia hiberna_, Knotty-rooted Spurge:--on the mountains.
_Galeopsis villosa_, Hairy Dead Nettle:--in fields near Castle Island.
_Geranium maritimum_, Sea Crane's-bill:--on the strand of Tralee.
_Geranium moschatum_, Musk Crane's-bill or Muscovy:--on the abbey walls
of Lislactin.
_Geum rivale_, Water Avens:--on the hills near the passage into the
upper lake of Killarney.
_Herniaria glabra_, Smooth Rupture-wort:--on Lamb-head near the mouth
of the river Kenmare.
_Hieracium paludosum_, Succory-leaved Hawkweed:--in Ballybog.
_Ilex Aquifolium (baccis luteis)_, Yellow-berried Holly:--on mountains
near Lough Lane.
_Inula crithmoides_, Golden Samphire:--on rocks near Bolus-head in
Iveragh, and elsewhere.
_Jungermannia epiphylla_, Broad-leaved Jungermannia:--in a wood near
Beal Castle.
_Juniperus communis_, Juniper:--on the mountains.
_Juniperus Sabina_, Savine:--in islands at Killarney.
_Lepidium latifolium_, Dittander or Pepperwort:--near the head of
Kenmare river.
_Lichen islandicus_, Eryngo-leaved Liverwort:--on the mountains of
Iveragh near Blackstones.
_Lichen tartareus_, Welch Liverwort, Cork or Archill:--on rocks on the
sea coast.
_Lycopodium alpinum_, Mountain Club Moss:--on the mountains of Toomesh
and others near the Lake of Killarney.
_Lycopodium clavatum_, Common Club Moss:--on the southern districts on
the mountains.
_Lycopodium Selago_, Upright Fir Moss:--on Mangerton and most other
mountains near the Lake of Killarney.
_Ophioglossum vulgatum_, Adder's Tongue:--in moist meadows.
_Osmunda crispa_, Stone Fern:--on rocks among mountains in the southern
baronies.
_Osmunda regalis_, Osmund royal or Flowering Fern:--in bogs of
Irachticonnor; in a wood near Lixnaw and elsewhere.
_Paris quadrifolia_, Herb Paris, True-love, or One-berry:--in the wood
near Ross Castle; near the Lake.
_Peucedanum officinale_, Hog's Fennel, Sulphurwort:--on the shores of
Ballyheigh bay.
_Pinus Abies_, Common Fir or Pitch Tree:--in the mountains.
_Pinus picea_, Yew-leaved Fir:--in the mountains.
_Pisum maritimum_, Sea Pease:--on Inch Island in Castlemain bay.
_Polemonium cæruleum_, Greek Valerian, or Jacob's Ladder:--near Castle
Island, in meadows.
_Polygonum Bistorta_, Greater Bistort or Snakeweed:--in a park near
Tralee.
_Polypodium fragile_, Brittle Polypody:--on Mangerton mountains.
_Polypodium fragile γ_, a variety of the last; on the south side of the
rocks called the Reeks.
_Polypodium rhœticum_, Stone Polypody:--on several mountains round the
Lake of Killarney, near the new road to Glanerough.
_Pulmonaria maritima_, Sea Bugloss:--on the beach near Beal Castle.
_Rubia peregrina_, Wild Madder:--in the Island of Innisfallen.
_Rubus idæus_, Raspberry Bush or Framboise:--near Lough Lane,
plentifully.
_Salsola Kali_, Prickly Glasswort:--on the sea shore at the bottom of
Ballyheigh Bay.
_Santolina maritima_, Sea Cudweed:--on the shores of Ballyheigh strand.
_Saxifraga oppositifolia_, Mountain Heath-like Sengreen; among the
rocks near Blackstones.
_Saxifraga umbrosa_, London Pride, or None-so-pretty:--on Mangerton
mountain.
_Scrophularia Scorodonia_, Balm-leaved Figwort:--on the sea coast near
the Magherie Islands in Tralee bay.
_Smyrnium Olusatrum_, Alexanders:--on a small bushy hillock near
Crumlin Ch., about the shore near Dunkerton, the head of the river
Kenmare, and elsewhere.
_Sorbus domestica_, True Service or Sorb; on several rocks about
Killarney Lake.
_Solidago cambrica_, Welch Golden Rod:--near the Devil's Punch-bowl, on
the west side of Mangerton mountain.
_Tragopogon porrifolius_, Purple Goat's-beard:--on the banks of the
river Brick near Lixnaw.
KILDARE
Is an inland and small-sized county, soon traversed, and, with the
exception of numerous Danish mounts, containing very little to interest
the general tourist. It is, in short, little more than an extent of
bog; and the famous Curragh of Kildare, so celebrated in the annals
of sporting, is literally nothing more than a boggy down of about
3000 acres. Mr. Wakefield observes that the habitations of the poor
are so extremely wretched that they add the appearance of misery and
desolation to the general dulness exhibited by the face of the country.
Unfortunately there is scarcely any thing to contrast with this; for
the seats of the gentry, though much admired, are far from being
numerous. Bounded by Meath on the N.; Dublin and Wicklow, E., Carlow
S.; and W. by King's and Queen's Counties.
ATHY, 10 m. S.W. of Kildare, celebrated as the scene of battles in
early history.--See ruins of two Monasteries. At Ardee, 1 m., Danish
Rath. At Carmen, 5 m. E., Rath on conical hill, with extensive
prospect. See Kilberry Abbey, and Kildangon Castle, in ruins. At
Maistean, field of battle where bones are still dug up, of great
antiquity. Rheban, 2 m. N., has a quadrangular entrenchment, the
remains of an ancient city.
BALLITORE, a beautiful village, 12 m. S.E. of Kildare, situated in a
valley on a winding stream. It is a colony of Quakers, with houses
remarkable for neatness, cleanliness, and elegant simplicity, with
highly cultivated gardens. See Belan House, the seat of the Earl of
Aldborough, erected on, or near to the ruins of an old Castle which
was demolished by Cromwell; after which another mansion was raised,
since pulled down and rebuilt. It stands low, near the junction of two
streams, which at the distance of 4 m. fall into the Barrow. Plainness
and convenience seem to have been attended to on its erection, more
than elegance, though handsome and substantial; the front and rear
composed with breaks and ornamented with corner stone work; and the
whole forming a good object at the end of a magnificent avenue. The
visitor will be shown a bed which stood in the old mansion, in which
it is said, by tradition, that both King William and King James slept
in the course of the year 1690. The demesne is very extensive, and has
the singularity of being in five counties, Kildare, Wicklow, Carlow,
Queen's, and Dublin; and seven others may be seen from an eminence in
the grounds, King's, Meath, Westmeath, Kilkenny, Wexford, Waterford,
and Tipperary. Timolin, 3 m. S., see ruins of Castle, and Moone Abbey.
CASTLE CARBERRY, 12 m. N. of Kildare, is a station for the N.W. part
of the county. See ruins of ancient Castle, (1180) with extensive
prospect; also Newberry, a handsome seat of Lord Harberton.
CASTLE DERMOT, 18 m. S.E. of Kildare.--See ruins of Franciscan
Friary, and Ch., close to which a round tower in good preservation,
and beautifully enveloped in ivy; also remains of Castle, two stone
Crosses, and three Pillars of great antiquity. A place of early
celebrity, but now in decay. Kilkea Castle, 5 m. N.W., the property of
the Duke of Leinster, presents the tourist with the agreeable picture
of an ancient Castle fitted up for modern residence. Grose gives a
very interesting engraving of it; and he describes it as situated on
a rising ground and commanding an extensive prospect: near it is a
Ch., and the river Grisso runs at a small distance. Having been partly
rebuilt in the 15th century, it has a bawn or inclosure entered by
an arched gateway, defended by a round tower which projects from the
castle itself. In the front of the castle is the principal entrance,
with an outer staircase. The whole forms a very interesting object.
CLAIN, 10 m. N.E. of Kildare, stands pleasantly on the Liffey; Ch.
with lofty steeple; ruins of Abbey; ancient Castle, and extensive
Rath; Aqueduct Bridge near it.
KILCOCK, 18 m. N.E. of Kildare, and on the verge of the county, is a
populous but straggling village. Suffered dreadfully from the rebels
in 1798. See Cloncurry, 4 m., with ruins of ancient Ch.; also Donadea
Castle.
KILCULLEN, OLD and NEW, 7 m. S.E. of Kildare, with round tower, and
remains of monastic buildings; bridge over the Liffey. At Castle
Martin, curious Chapel and Mausoleum. Kilgowan, near it, has an
ancient stone pillar on a hill. At New Abbey, see the ruins and
monuments of the Eustace family. At Old Kilcullen examine the shaft
of an antique Cross covered with rude sculptures, of which a good
plate is given in Ledwich's Antiquities. The style is grotesque,
and evidently Danish. Some of the figures are intended to represent
priests engaged in religious offices; but the others are mere
caricatures.
KILDARE is the county town, about 28 m. from the metropolis.--The
Abbey is a very fine ruin, consisting of part of the tower and a
considerable portion of the walls, containing six Gothic arches and as
many buttresses, but entirely modernized. It is said that the ruinous
state of the steeple is in consequence of the siege during the civil
war, when its north side was knocked down by a Cromwellian battery.
The south wing is a mass of ruins, but the antiquary may still notice
two statues in alto relievo; one of which is the representation clad
in armour of an ancient knight of the Fitzgerald family, surrounded
by heraldic escutcheons; the other a bishop with his pastoral staff,
and his mitre supported by monkeys. Close to the ruins is a Round
Tower 132 feet in height, with a light battlement in pretty good
preservation, being one of the best specimens in the island. The
monastic annals of this town present the extraordinary instance of a
_Sacred Fire_ having been preserved from the time of the Druids by
Christian nuns of St. Bridget; a lady much celebrated for her virtues
and her miracles. The place where this relic of heathen superstition
was preserved, is still in existence, and now called the Fire-house.
Of this fire many wonderful tales are related, especially that
although it consumed great quantities of fuel, yet the ashes never
increased. It was considered impious to blow the fire with the human
breath, but only by a pair of bellows; yet people of plain sense
might suppose that a holy miraculous flame would never require human
assistance in any shape. It appears indeed that in the 13th century
the Archbishop of Dublin performed a miracle in putting out this
fire; but it was rekindled and continued in good preservation until
the dissolution of the religious houses. The town stands pleasantly
on the side of a hill; and the ancient Castle is partly habitable.
The Curragh is a fine unequal down of short pasture, famous for its
races; and contains 3000 acres; with remains of ancient Barrows or
small Raths, which Sir R. C. Hoare supposes to be Druidical. The hill
of Allen gives name to an extensive bog, and is celebrated for its
cave where repose the remains of Oscar and other Ossianic chiefs, this
being the hill of Temora in ancient times. Dunmurry presents great
variety to the mineralogist. Kilmaoge has an ancient Ch. At Lackagh, 3
m. W., ancient cemetery with ruins of Ch. and Castle. Monasterevan, 5
m. S.W., has a modern built Ch. and Nursery for the Leinster Charter
Schools: near it the venerable but beautifully repaired mansion of
Moore Abbey, seat of the Marquis of Drogheda. At New Bridge, ruins of
magnificent Abbey of Great Connell. Rathangan, on the banks of the
canal, suffered greatly in the rebellion.
LEIXLIP, 8 m. from Dublin, near Lucan, a romantic scene of wood,
rocks, and water.--Near it, at Castletown, is the finest house in
Ireland, built by the late Mr. Conolly: a large handsome edifice
situated on an extensive lawn surrounded by fine plantations, uniting
with sombre woods and artificial scenery. From hence visit also
Cartown, the picturesque seat of the Duke of Leinster; Summerhill;
Dangan, &c. &c. See also the Salmon leap, with magnificent old Castle
delightfully seated on a rising ground overhanging the Liffey, near
which is the celebrated Aqueduct of the royal canal, being 85 feet
above the river, equal to the famous Roman work at Pont de Gard in
France. The village is picturesquely situated on the edge of the
river, near a charming wild romantic dell, where high slopes covered
with wood rise on each side above the water, having paths that lead
to the Cascade. See at St. Woolstan's, 2 m. S.W., ruinous towers and
gateways of ancient Priory (1208).
MAYNOOTH, 11 m. from Dublin, has lately become famous for its Roman
Catholic College, formed to receive a great number of students. It has
a large Inn and fine Market-house; also a Protestant Charter School,
and near it are the ruins of an ancient Castle. Bishop's Court may
be visited along with the beauties of Leixlip: it is a magnificent
mansion and highly cultivated demesne of Lord Ponsonby. Celbridge, a
modern built village, is highly worth notice, with fine stone bridge
over the Liffey, and at the lower extremity an elegant Ch. lately
erected. See extensive woollen manufactory; also at the S. end of the
village, remains of a magnificent Abbey, now repaired, and converted
into a habitation presenting all the external appearance of its former
character, in all the gloomy grandeur of Gothic architecture. Castle
Browne, not far distant, has recently been purchased for a society
of Jesuits. Furnace is a beautiful seat, lately much improved, with
ruins of ancient chapel in the lawn, in which is a window of painted
glass of high antiquity and extreme beauty. At Oughterard, see ancient
Ch. and Round Tower on summit of a hill. Prosperous is another modern
creation, being founded by Colonel Brook in 1780, for a Cotton
Manufactory: 1/2 m. distant from which, at a place called the Cott,
is a strong sulphureous spa, richly impregnated also as a chalybeate,
useful in scrophulous and cutaneous diseases.
NAAS, 10 m. N.E. of Kildare, was in ancient times the residence of
the Kings of Leinster, of which it still retains evident marks in the
existence of Moats or Raths of considerable elevation at its N. and S.
extremities. See Court House; Parsonage House, built upon the site of
an ancient Castle; and extensive Barracks. No remains of its original
fortifications now exist; but the tourist will find a good inn,
with a supply of post horses. Jigginstown, 1/2 m. distant, has been
repeatedly noticed for the ruins of an elegant mansion begun by Lord
Strafford in the unhappy reign of Charles I. It stands close to the
road, and is vaulted underneath. At Johnstown is the ancient mansion
and extensive demesne of Lord Mayo.
MINERALS.
In the Red Hills on the southern limits of the bog of Allen, the
mineralogical tourist may derive great satisfaction from an examination
of the copper mines which were opened there about 30 years ago.
Dunmurry forms a kind of headland to the north of the chain of hills,
and the loose stones on its surface frequently appear as if calcined
in the fire, of a red purple colour, and sometimes tinctured with
sulphur, generally considered as certain indications of the existence
of copper. Here shafts have been sunk to the depth of 15 fathom in the
solid rock, which is calcareous in many places; and here is also found
a white argillaceous alkaline earth; together with calcareous spar, and
a fossil said to be a poor silver ore. On the conical hill of Allen,
about a mile distant, the vestiges of partial vitrification are even
more apparent, and many of the specimens are richly impregnated with
blue and green vitriol. Near Williamstown the mineralogist may visit
the deserted works of a silver mine, and amuse himself with scientific
research.
BOTANY.
_Narthecium ossifragum_, Lancashire or Bastard Asphodel:--in turfy bogs.
_Pinguicula vulgaris_, Butterwort, or Yorkshire Sanicle:--in pastures
near Barberstown.
_Samolus Valerandi_, Round-leaved Water Pimpernel:--in marshes and
moist meadows, at Monasterevan.
KILKENNY
Is an inland and not very extensive county; but is highly worth
visiting: for though much of it consists of furze-clad mountains, yet
these are finely contrasted by the diversified scenery on the banks of
the Suir and Barrow, its eastern and western limits, and of the Nore
which divides it nearly in two. In several parts of the county the
mineralogist will find petrifactions or incrustations similar to those
of Derbyshire; especially on the banks of a stream which flows through
the glen of Ballyragget; and the Derbyshire farmers may here learn a
lesson from the Irish agriculturists, who have discovered that these
incrustations or depositions, which form with great rapidity, make an
excellent manure. In many parts also are found calcareous petrifactions
of pectunculites, echinites, cochlites, and some Cornua ammonis; and
in several places, particularly in the barony of Galmoy, (as stated
by Mr. Wakefield,) are tubiporites in such size and plenty as to be
often seen in the fields and on dry stone walls. The antiquities are
very numerous; Raths, Druidical Monuments, Castles, Abbeys, &c. are
scattered in all parts, but very ruinous. The rivers are on a large
scale, and the scenery pleasing. Bounded on the N.W. by Queen's County;
N. by Carlow; E. by Wexford; S.W. by Tipperary.
CALLEN, 7 m. S.W. of Kilkenny, has ruins of three Castles, and old
Gothic Ch., all destroyed by Cromwell. 1 m. see Eve Castle in ruins;
also very large Rath, 40 feet high, 46 yards by 24.
CASTLE COMER, 8 m. N. of Kilkenny; see the celebrated Kilkenny
coal-pits; beautiful mansion of Lady Ormond, the scene of several
battles during the rebellion. Town partly burnt down, but since
rebuilt.
CASTLE DURROW, 12 m. N.W. of Kilkenny, a town pleasantly situated on
the banks of the Erkin, a small river, with a good inn. Near it the
large old-fashioned mansion of Lord Ashbrooke. Roads good. Country
round well cultivated, with some wood. Several vestiges of Danish
Mounts. Visit Ballyspellan, 6 m. _S.W._, a celebrated Spa, chalybeate,
with much to amuse the mineralogist; also Druidical remains. Fertagh
has curious old Ch., and Round Tower 96 feet high. At Freshford see
Irish inscription over Ch. door. Galmoy has numerous Danish Raths in
its vicinity.
DUNMORE CAVE, 5 m. N.W. of Kilkenny, is one of the most remarkable in
the island. Proceed to the Ch. of Mothe, a little to the southward of
which, in a field on the slope of a gently rising hill, is the mouth
of the cave, which opens into a large oval pit, about 40 or 50 yards
wide, apparently formed by the sinking in of the surface, at the
eastern end. To this there is a descent of 70 feet from the opposite
quarter, over the rubbish of stone and clay; but the other sides of
the pit are perpendicular. Rabbits often burrow near the entrance;
and the first cavern, which is spacious, but of an irregular form, is
generally a shelter for wild pigeons. To the roof of this cavern is an
altitude of at least 50 feet; the floor slopes downwards, and towards
the left the tourist arrives at a narrow passage which leads by a
slippery ascent to the interior cavern. The difficulty of approach to
this spot is amply repaid by the wonders within, where a great variety
of stalagmitic concretions, added to the rugged forms of the rocks,
exhibit a most singular and striking appearance. The tourist who
wishes to explore all the wonders, must now proceed to the upper end,
which becomes much narrower, but soon expands into a larger apartment.
Beyond this there are other winding passages and other caves; but as
neither Mr. Wakefield nor Mr. Walker seems to have explored them, it
perhaps remains for some adventurous tourist to discover wonders equal
to the caves of Trophonius or even Montesinos. Those who choose not to
proceed further may consult Mr. Tighe's Survey of the County, where
various other circumstances are stated. It is said that one of those
passages leads to the other side of the hill, where day-light may be
seen to enter through a narrow chink. In another of the inner caverns,
imagination supposes the calcareous concretions to have assumed the
form of an organ; in another, of a cross and altar. A stream of
water passes through the cavern at a considerable distance from its
entrance; and many skulls and other human bones have been found near
to it, also in the more interior passages beyond it. Some of these
skulls have been seen petrified, as it is called, or covered with the
calcareous spar. The mineralogist may here pick up some specimens of
an indurated clay, tinted by carbon, and called in the vicinity black
chalk. Upon the whole, a visit to this place cannot fail to be highly
gratifying to the tourist; though he will meet with some difficulties
in exploring it, as the bottom is always damp and slippery, and rugged
withal, from the stalactites formed by the dripping water on its very
irregular flooring.
ENNISTEAGUE, or INNISTIOGUE, 12 m. S.E. of Kilkenny, has a handsome
Bridge and some pleasing scenery.--See the enchanting and picturesque
glen at Woodstock, near Glanmore, with ruins of Ch. and Castle, in
whose winding recesses nature and art have done every thing possible
to embellish the scene.
GOWRAN, 8 m. E. of Kilkenny, stands on a pleasant stream.--See Ch.
in ruins, a fine specimen of the middle Gothic. In the cemetery are
the bones of the officers of the Castle garrison shot by order of
Cromwell for their gallant defence. See Low Grange, 1 m., modern
mansion erected on ruins of ancient Castle. Visit Graignemanach lying
in a sequestered vale on the romantic banks of the Barrow, which
claims the tourist's notice by majestic ruins of an extensive Abbey,
of which the architecture and sculpture excite our admiration even in
its present dilapidated state. It is built in the form of a cross; and
its outline pretty entire. The arch leading into the choir, rising to
the roof with double mouldings and supported by clustered pillars, is
a very fine specimen of the Gothic. It is impossible to view the two
plates of it given by Grose, without wishing to explore its venerable
arcades. It was a mitred Abbey, and founded in 1212; but particularly
remarkable for having been the depository of a "Doomsday Book," or
Survey of the Island, begun by Henry II., and finished under the
orders of John.
KILKENNY, the county town, is 57 m. S.W. of Dublin.--The Castle is an
interesting object to the inquisitive tourist, originally begun in
the 12th century by Strongbow, and completed by William de Mareschal,
Earl of Pembroke. Great part of the ancient edifice has survived the
various convulsions of civil anarchy, now repaired and beautified so
as to form a conspicuous ornament to the city, on a rising ground,
with a rapid descent to the Nore, and on the other sides fortified by
walls and towers, the Gothic grandeur of whose remains is disfigured
in the eye of taste, by a lofty marble entrance gate of the Corinthian
order. Much fine tapestry, in fresh and lively colours, representing
the story of Decius, will interest the visitor on entering the
breakfast-room. See also the alcove or presence-chamber, hung with
tapestry, with a chair of state raised a step above the floor, a
remnant of ancient pomp, now superseded by the simpler habits of
modern nobility. The other parts of the mansion have also been well
fitted up for the fashionable conviviality which has recently graced
its walls. The ball-room or gallery is of great length, and contains
pictures, many of which are highly interesting, being the portraits of
the gay court of the 2d Charles. See also the Countess's Dressing-room
in an octagon tower; the Chapel, and, if permitted, the Evidence
Room, which contains an immense mass of valuable MSS., materials
partially gleaned by Carte, the historian. Near the city is the
Cathedral Ch. of St. Canice, of considerable antiquity, being, in its
finished state, of the reign of Edward the 1st, and still in very good
preservation. It stands on an eminence, with a descent on all sides;
and the Ch. yard is entered, from the town, by a flight of marble
steps. The cemetery being planted with trees has a romantic effect,
and presents a very extensive prospect over a rich vicinage. In the
interior the seats of the choir and gallery are of oak varnished, and
the whole plain, but remarkably neat. The compass ceiling is adorned
with fretwork, and has many modillions, and in the centre a group
of foliage, festoons, and cherubim. In the nave and aisles are many
beautiful sepulchral Monuments. It is the Cathedral of the see of
Ossory; and close to it is a very curious Round Tower. The Dominican
or Black Abbey, an extensive ruin, with the elegant ramifications
of some of its Gothic windows in pretty good preservation, stands
low, and is surrounded by squalid huts, which disfigure its outside
and take off much of the sombre effect of its venerable walls. The
windows, especially the east one, are light and elegant: the arcades
are open and airy; and the towers spring up with an airy elegance
that seizes at once upon the traveller's attention. The Abbey of
St. Francis, with its square Tower springing from a lofty Gothic
arch, is worthy the tourist's notice, though much disfigured in its
interior by the squalid cabins of poverty and idleness, and by part
of its precincts being turned into a horse barrack. The great altar
is a marble slab of amazing size; but perhaps the most remarkable
circumstance about the place is the legendary story of a sainted lady
who built part of the choir, and whose extreme chastity induced her
to descend a virgin into the grave at the age of 70, although she had
been married young and to several husbands. The ruins of St. John's
Abbey, part of which has been converted into a foot barrack, present
some very fine specimens of the light Gothic in the windows and
corridors. Founded in 1220. See the marble mill, about 2 m. from the
city, and on the left bank of the river; a very ingenious invention,
alike admirable for the simplicity of its construction, and for the
power which it exerts. The saws are made of soft iron, and will last
but a week; each cutting about ten or twelve inches per day, equal to
the labour of two men. Not far from these mills are various marble
quarries; but the most curious mineralogical specimen is called
Sidero-calcite, so plentiful as to have been used for repairing the
roads. Unlike the other marbles, it cannot be burnt into lime; but it
contains a quantity of iron and manganese; and as it is brittle and
friable, it has been proposed as an ingredient in mortar or cement
used for building under water. Visit Clogmanta Hill, about 10 m.
N.W., where are some extensive Druidical remains, with a magnificent
prospect from the summit. Rathbeath, 5 m. N., is supposed to be the
ancient Argat-Ross, where in early times a silver mine existed, whence
the first Irish coinage took place.
KNOCTOPHER, 9 m. S. of Kilkenny, stands pleasantly on the banks of a
rivulet which flows into the Nore. Bessborough, 8 m. S., is a handsome
seat of the Earl of that name, in a park of 500 acres; the house 100
feet in length, with elegant hall, saloon and parlour containing
numerous fine paintings, of the Italian and Flemish schools. See
various Cromlechs and other Druidical remains at Garryduff-hill,
especially Leibe ne Cuhn, or the Priest's Grave, with stone cells.
Grandison or Grany Castle, though apparently not older than the
reign of Henry VIII., being in the style of domestic fortification
of that period, and now almost a total ruin, is yet far from being
an uninteresting object, not only in picturesque effect with its
numerous towers, but as affording a good idea of the insecure state
of society during that unsettled period. It has three Round Towers on
the Suir, and two Courts; a large square Tower, connected to a great
hall, and another Round Tower form the other side; in the inside of
the arch of a window in the hall is a grotesque angel holding a shield
with the arms of Butler. It was built by Margaret, the great Countess
of Ormonde, at a period when ladies of high birth seem to have been
proud of exercising the masculine authority of the other sex. Kells,
a pleasant little place, 3 m. N., has some pretty river scenery. At
Kilbeacon see Earl's Rath, a very large fort, oblong, and surrounded
by a deep fosse, formerly filled with water, with a bank about 20 feet
high; in the area are remains of buildings. Kilmogue has a curious
Cromlech, the upper stone, 45 feet in circumference, supported by
several others, nine in number. The stones are of siliceous breccia,
and it is still known by the name of Lachan Scahl, the Great Altar
Stone. At Mullinavat, the mineralogist will find considerable
amusement in his researches. At Tory-hill, to the S.E. about 7 m.,
and called in the Irish, Sleigh Grian, or the Hill of the Sun, see a
circular space on the very summit, covered with stones, in which is
one large squared stone, 5 feet long, resting on three others, with an
inscription in the ancient Pelasgic characters, BELIDIVOSE, supposed
to be a dedication to the Deity, under the name of Bel, Baal, or
Apollo.
THOMASTOWN, 9 m. S.E. from Kilkenny, deserves the notice of the
antiquary from its being one of the most ancient towns in the
island, being founded by one of the chiefs of Henry II. in his first
expedition. From this Thomas Fitz-Anthony it derives its nomenclature.
Its principal remnant of antiquity is the Abbey, of which there are
some considerable fragments; one end being fitted up as the parish
Ch. There is a venerable Tower at one angle; and the Gothic arcades
afford some fine specimens of the lancet arch, evidently of a date
posterior to the foundation of the town itself. In the ruinous part of
the edifice, the tourist will notice a large sepulchral stone, which
is reported in traditionary legends to cover the body of a giant.
Its trade is considerably increasing in consequence of the river
navigation. The river Argula falls into the Nore, close by Ballyduff,
where are ruins of an old Castle. About 2 m. above it, on the banks
of the Nore, are the ruins of the Abbey of Jerpoint, a Cistertian
establishment as early as 1180. Its remains, which are extensive, more
resemble a fortress than an Abbey; and it has a very fine light and
airy Tower with four pinnacles. The picturesque tourist when at this
place must not omit a most romantic walk to a secluded dell and glen
at Kilfaun, about 1-1/2 m. in length, well described by Wakefield, who
notices an elegant cottage placed in a situation truly delightful;
opposite to which is a waterfall, the rivulet running through the lawn
and flower garden, having on both sides rocks ornamented with large
evergreens, the whole scene exhibiting numerous beauties both of art
and nature. Near Thomastown is Mount Juliet, the seat of the Earl
of Carrick, which, though in a neglected state as described by Mr.
Wakefield, is deserving of notice; the house being built in the old
fashioned style of architecture, and standing immediately on the banks
of the romantic and rapid Nore.
MINERALOGY.
Granite in various parts of the county; particularly on Brandon
mountain near Gowran, with siliceous schistus, containing mica,
crystals, and jasper. Pyrites and quartz near Inistioge. Black slate
and hone-stones near Castle Durrow. Kilkenny coal near Castle Comer.
Some pieces of very fine compact jasper, of various sizes, may be found
on the borders of the granite district in the S. The specimens already
discovered were of a deep red colour, for the most part obtusely
angular, and squarer at one end than the other: they were imbedded in
yellow clay, a few feet below the surface.
The mineralogist may feel gratified by the examination of a very fine
granite quarry in the vicinity of Gowran. It is a beautiful stone of
a light yellow cast, fine grained and compact, and may be taken up in
blocks of any required size.
On the top of Drumdowny Hill, the extremity of an extensive range,
there is a dry stone wall inclosing a space of about 300 acres,
appropriated for quarrying a species of breccia, or pudding stone,
which is cut into mill-stones.
BOTANY.
_Borago officinalis_, Burrage:--on the ruins of Grandison Castle.
_Erica cinerea_, Female Heath; with white flowers:--on moist sides of
hills.
_Humulus Lupulus_, or Hops:--indigenous evidently in many parts of the
county.
_Iris Pseud-acorus_, Common Flags or Saggons:--in wet grounds.
_Lichen_, Common Mosses; with all the varieties of _caninus_,
_physodes_, _farinaceus_, &c.:--in many places.
_Lonicera_ var. _fol. quercinis_, Oak-leaved Honey-Suckle:--in the S.E.
district, in meadows.
_Lycopodium alpinum_, Alpine Moss:--on the hills on western side of the
Nore.
_Lycopodium clavatum_, Club Moss:--near Inistiogue.
_Lycopodium Selago_, Ladies' Shamrock:--in moist grounds on the banks
of the Nore.
_Rumex Acetosa_, Sorrel:--in moist meadows.
_Rumex acutus_, Sharp Dock:--on clayey soils in the north.
_Verbena officinalis_, Vervain:--in pastures, and on road sides.
KING'S COUNTY.
This is one of the small Irish inland counties, long and narrow,
bordering in some degree upon the Shannon, and traversed by the canal
intended to unite the Irish Channel with that river.--It is flat and
often boggy, especially in that district called the Bog of Allen; with
the exception of the range of hills that separate it from the Queen's
County, called the Sliebh-bloom mountains. Bounded N. by East and West
Meath; E. by Kildare and Queen's County; S. by Tipperary; and W. by
Galway and the River Shannon.
BALLYBOY, 17 m. S.W. of Philipstown, is nearly central to the
county, on the Silver river, and but an inconsiderable village,
with ruins of several Castles in its vicinity. See Anna lake and
remains of Killinany Castle. At Ballycumber, ruins of a Castle, and
a Ch. At Ferbane, beyond the Brosna, 10 m. N.W., see ruins of Cool
and Killcolgan Castles; and near it are the ruins of Clonmacnoise,
celebrated as the cemetery of numerous chieftains, priests, &c. These
splendid remains are seated in the midst of delightful scenery, on a
rising ground on the banks of the Shannon. See an ornamented Cross,
fifteen feet high, standing near Teanpull Mac Diermid. It is in a
rich style of sculpture, exhibiting the duties of Christianity, and
some legendary stories of St. Kiaran, (A.D. 549,) the patron saint.
The doors of the Ch. of Teanpull are also deserving of notice for
their statues and ornamented architecture. Here are also two stone
Crosses, and another nearer to Ferban, with ruins of several Castles.
The episcopal palace is also in ruins, about 1/2 m. distant, besides
some remains of a Nunnery. Many inscriptions in the Irish and the
learned languages may be traced in the sepulchral Monuments; and the
whole scene assimilates well with the wild and romantic landscape that
surrounds it. Frankford is a small town, 3 m. N.W., with a Charter
School, and some remains of a roofless Chapel.
BANAGHER, 30 m. S.W. of Philipstown, is seated on the E. bank of the
Shannon, with pleasing river scenery and two bridges: a well built
town, and good station for the tourist. Cloghan, 4 m., a village
with a most comfortable inn, rendering it a convenient resting-place
for the pedestrian artist wishing to examine the surrounding wild
landscape. The statist may also derive considerable pleasure from
investigating the progress of civilization and improvement resulting
from the judicious planting and cultivation across the river Silver,
by the Rev. Dr. Mullock, at Bellair, and from the erection of a
village well planned, with neatness, cleanliness, and a good police
as its main objects, in concert with the introduction of the Linen
Manufacture.
BIRR, 28 m. S.W. of Philipstown, and seated on a river of the same
name, was formerly called PARSONSTOWN, from the family to which
it belongs, who have a castellated mansion in the outskirts. The
town itself is new, and well built, of a good size, and the streets
regularly laid out; with a square, called Duke's Square, from a
statue of the Duke of Cumberland erected on a lofty stone column. The
tourist will find a good inn at the King's Arms. See the fine old
and venerable Castle, the mansion of the Earl of Ross, which stood a
siege by General Sarsfield in the war of the Revolution. Excellent
Market-house, and Infantry Barrack. Canger, to the S.E., towards the
Sliebh-bloom mountains, manifests how much may be done in Ireland
by the exertions of an individual. Here, by the judicious care of
Mr. Atkinson, aided indeed by the neighbouring gentlemen, much has
recently been accomplished; whiskey is giving place to malt liquor;
the people quiet and loyal, though illiterate; and other improvements
daily taking place. Excellent houses are also building for the
tenants; labouring wages have been generously raised; the children
constantly employed, and industry and content going hand in hand.
Agricultural improvements and experiments are here practised, to the
manifest instruction of the hitherto neglected farmer. At Drummoyle, 4
m., see the ancient Castle of Leap, with the incongruous addition of
two modern wings to its Gothic centre. In the ancient part the walls
are 14 feet thick. Dunkerron has a comfortable inn for those who wish
to explore the southern angle of the county, and the Sliebh-bloom
mountains. Near it see Franfort, the antique mansion of Mr. Rolleston,
regularly defended with fortifications, a fosse and draw-bridge;
also a modern, elegant, and spacious mansion house at Greenhills.
In the Sliebh-bloom mountains, see a large pyramid of white stones,
the emblem of the Sun-fire amongst the Celtic nations, from whence
arose their ancient name of Bladhma, or Beal-di-mai, the necromancy
of Baal's-day. They extend through a range of 15 miles, through which
there is but one steep, narrow, and craggy pass, called Glandine Gap,
not more than five feet wide, called by some the Irish Thermopylæ, and
leading into Tipperary. At Rathmore, or the Great Rock, examine that
extensive work once fortified by numerous towers, but now yielding to
the hand of peaceful improvement. Shinrone has a handsome Ch., and
Market-house, with a good Classical School.
EDENDERRY, 8 m. N.E. of Philipstown, a pleasant village inhabited by
Quakers.--See ruins of Castle on a hill; and near it, spacious ruins
of a Monastery.
PHILIPSTOWN, 39 m. S.W. from Dublin, took its name from Philip of
Spain, being in a new shire incorporated by Queen Mary.--See ruins of
Castle on bank of the river, with the spacious Gaol,--this, though
a sorry village, being the county town. Near it see Croghan-hill,
conical, and beautifully clothed with the most luxuriant verdure to
its top; with ruins of Ch. at the base, and ancient cemetery at the
summit.
PORTARLINGTON, 10 m. S.E., stands partly in this county, partly in
Queen's, being divided by the river Barrow.
TULLAMORE, 7 m. S.W. of Philipstown, is divided in two by the river
Clodagh. Here the tourist will find a good inn and accommodations
at the Charleville Arms near the bridge. The town was burnt down a
few years ago, but is reviving rapidly, with a busy and flourishing
aspect, under the auspices of Lord Charleville; intersected by a canal
leading from Dublin to the Shannon, on which a covered boat is fitted
for passengers. A short distance, and on the banks of the canal, see
a small square fortress in good preservation. See Charleville Castle,
a magnificent mansion in all respects, erected in the Gothic style,
but yet wanting the hoary hand of time to darken its castellated
battlements, being built of limestone, which does not yet harmonize
with the foliage of a flat park, or with the artificial piece of water
formed in its front. The scenery in the demesne is very fine, with
cascades, grottoes, rustic bridges, &c., &c. Clara, 10 m. W., is a
neat handsome village, surrounded by the Linen Manufactory. Geashill,
3 m. S.E., has ruins of an ancient lofty Castle, the residence of the
O'Molloys, which, defended by a lady, made a strong resistance against
Cromwell. Near it a celebrated spring, and ruins of an Abbey.
MINERALS.
The Sliebh-bloom mountains offer a fine field of research to the
mineralogical and geological tourist; being at present virgin ground.
In other parts may be found, manganese, iron ore, ochres, with
limestone and potter's clay.
BOTANY.
_Hypnum crispum_, Curled Hypnum:--in woods, heaths, and rocks.
_Melittis Melissophyllum_, Bastard Balm:--in woods and hedges.
_Pinus sylvestris_, Scotch Fir:--in woods in various parts.
_Pyrola rotundifolia_, Wintergreen:--in a bog near Dunkerrin.
LEITRIM
Borders on the sea at its N.W. extremity; almost entirely covered
by groups of mountains, not completely barren, affording sufficient
herbage for the feeding of cattle; whilst the vales between them are
occupied by numerous lakes giving rise to equally numerous rivers. The
picturesque tourist will here behold nature in her boldest features;
and the antiquary may gratify himself with the examination of numerous
ancient Castles in situations of the wildest and most savage grandeur.
The lakes are numerous. Bounded on the S. by Roscommon and Sligo; W. by
Bay of Donnegal; N. by Donnegal and Fermanagh; E. and S.E. by Cavan and
Longford.
CARRICK-ON-SHANNON, or CARRICK DRUMRUSK, 78 m. from Dublin, is the
largest and shire town of the county.--See the New Prison. Hall
observes that many of the tombstones in the Ch.-yard are of a musical
nature; for if struck with the knuckles, they ring like a dull metal.
FENAUGHT, 8 m. N.E. of Carrick, is a wild open district, presenting
little worth notice except the venerable ruins of what was once a
celebrated Divinity School of the Culdees. It is picturesquely overrun
with ivy. The E. window is considered as a specimen of very curious
workmanship; and the tourist must not fail to notice a line drawn
across the middle of the eastern gable, with a figure on the N. side,
about 12 feet from the ground, said to represent an evil spirit who
was very troublesome to St. Cullin, the founder, during the period of
its erection, this black gentleman acting the part of Penelope towards
her suitors, and pulling down in the night what the Saint and his holy
comrades had set up during the day. To check the troublesome intruder,
the Saint blessed some ropes and drew them one night along the top
of the building, when the Spirit, like a fly in a spider's nest,
got entangled in the ropes, and being unable to extricate himself,
was caught by the monks in the morning, who gave him some sound
correction for his offence, but set him loose again upon the public,
as is too often done by our modern police, and pretty much, perhaps,
for similar purposes. 1/2 m. dist. two Druidical Altars.
JAMESTOWN, 2 m. S.E. of Carrick, a small town with ruins of a
Castle.--Visit Carrigallan and Clongorrin Castles, about 12 m. E.
Lough Bofin lies to the S. About 1 m. from Rusky, is a view which Mr.
Hall considers one of the finest in Ireland, looking into Roscommon
across Lough Bofin or Achary.
LEITRIM, 3 m. N. of Carrick, is a small town, or village, but gives
name to the county.--Visit Lough Allen, encompassed by high mountains
and more than 30 m. in circuit, presenting a most picturesque
landscape. It is the first depository for the river Shannon, which
rises a few miles distant on Quilca hill in Fermanagh, and tumbles
down the mountains in tremendous cascades. On Inse Island see ruins of
a Ch., a place of high religious estimation as a cemetery.
MANOR HAMILTON, 22 m. N.W. of Carrick, deserves notice from its
romantic situation among mountains; a small neat village forming a
good station to visit the western district. Here is a Castle built in
the reign of Elizabeth. 3 m. N.W. a grotesque Castle of the O'Rourkes.
Dromahaire is a small town seated on the river Boonid, worth visiting
on account of its Abbey, (1508) which presents a pleasing specimen
of Gothic ruins. Visit the romantic and picturesque Lough Gill; also
Lough Melve, ornamented with wooded islands and venerable ruins. At
Lurganbuy, the beautiful residence of Mr. Wynne.
MINERALS.
The mineralogical tourist must visit the red stone river, with its
various coloured clays. The mountains present ores of lead, iron and
copper, particularly near Lough Allen; also coal, and pipe clay.
BOTANY.
_Cyclamen europæum_, Sowbread:--in various places.
[Illustration:
_T. Fielding fc._
_Eagles Nest & Echo, Lake of Killarney._]
LIMERICK
Is amongst the largest of the Irish counties, extending along the
southern bank of the Shannon, and therefore, though not maritime,
yet enjoying, or capable of enjoying, all the benefits of maritime
intercourse. Those who are merely in search of the wild and romantic,
may perhaps be disappointed by its scenery, as it cannot be esteemed
mountainous, except in the W.; yet being diversified by small hills,
it might soon become highly picturesque if ornamental cultivation
were once to extend over its rich pasture land, having no inclosures
but rude earthen banks almost entirely bare of foliage, and only
diversified by the squalid cabins of wretched cotters. On the borders
of Kerry there is a fine amphitheatre of low but steep hills stretching
in a curve from Drumcollogher to Loghil. These hills give rise to the
river Maigue, and several smaller fertilizing streams, which traverse
the county and fall into the Shannon. The numerous Castles crowded
together in this county strongly mark its ancient feudal state. Bounded
N. by the Shannon; N.E. by Tipperary; S. by Cork; W. by Kerry.
ADARE is an ancient town, 8 m. S.W. from Limerick, on the banks of the
river Maigue, over which there is a good bridge, close to the ruins
of the Abbey, whose lofty tower springs from a very curious arch,
constructed with four diagonal ogives meeting in the centre. The ruins
are yet in pretty good preservation, with beautiful Gothic cloisters,
ornamented with escutcheons of arms. The edifice, being of limestone,
has a curious yet venerable appearance. See the picturesque ruins of
an ancient Castle, once the residence of the potent Earls of Desmond,
and often the scene of hostile conflict during the early times, being
often besieged and taken by the contending parties. There are vestiges
of several other religious edifices; but the town itself is little
more than a cluster of cabins, through which the tourist passes in his
way to Killarney. In the vicinity is the demesne of the Quin family,
beautifully diversified with wood and water, whilst its lawns,
sloping down to both banks of the river, offer fine views of the ivied
Abbeys nodding their venerable heads over the placid stream. Here too
the tourist may wander delighted in silent contemplation through the
long-drawn vistas of aged trees, and through shady walks, where once
trod the saints and heroes of ancient times. See Mount Shannon, seat
of Lord Clare, consisting of a large pile of building ornamented with
plantations, near which are seen the environs of Limerick studded with
neat houses belonging to its wealthy merchants.
ASKEYTON, 16 m. W. of Limerick, pleasantly situated on the Deel at
its confluence with the Shannon; once fortified, now decayed. See
the Castle, or rather its ruins; for of this ancient seat of the old
Earls of Desmond, little more than one side wall remains. It stood
on an island formed by the Deel river. The Hall, once the seat of
hospitality, stands upon arches which are still pretty entire, but
is now converted into a ball alley. Cross the river, and at the
distance of a few hundred yards see the ruins of the Abbey, of which
the cloisters still remain almost entire. These are described by Mr.
Wakefield as extremely beautiful, being built of sculptured marble;
and are perfect, with the exception of two pillars carried away some
years ago by some person who considered them as holy reliques. See
Bally England Castle ruins; also Ballymort, the beautiful seat of Mr.
Massey; Courtferry Castle in ruins; Court, seat of Sir H. Harstonge.
Glynn, 8 m. W., near Tarbert in Kerry, is a pleasant little village,
seated at the mouth of a small romantic bay, surrounded by hills and
high cliffs; with ruins of ancient Castle of the Knights of Glynn.
The village of New Bridge, near it, is interesting as a colony of
Palatines from Germany settled here by Lord Southwell about a century
ago. Mr. Young speaks highly of their industry and cleanliness as
superior to their Irish neighbours. Near it, the seat of Mr. Bateman.
Rathkeal is a poor decayed village. See ruins of ancient Priory, with
curious figure of a monk in a window, painted like Tom of Coventry.
Extensive Barracks. Castle in ruins. 2 m. Shanagolden village in the
vicinity affords shelter and refreshment. See ruins of Loughgill
Castle, on a pleasant stream.
KILMALLOCK, 15 m. S. of Limerick, has by some been styled the "Balbec
of Ireland," and Sir R. C. Hoare recommends it as an object highly
worthy of the attention both of the artist and antiquary; but he
adds, that as the former will find more than a day's work for his
pencil, he must take up his abode either at Bruff or Charleville, in
Cork, as the best accommodations at Kilmallock are but indifferent.
Sir R. also observes that the first view of this place is singularly
striking; with the appearance of a town suddenly deserted and left in
ruins. Enter by the side of a lofty turreted gateway, leading into
the principal street formed by a double line of houses excellently
well built of stone, with a great uniformity in their style of
architecture, evidently of the time of Elizabeth; but many of these
are completely gutted, with nothing but the outward walls remaining.
Once there was a strong wall with five gates; but only two remain.
Parish Ch. in ruins, except the Choir; of Gothic architecture. See
Monuments of the Vernons. Round Tower, and ruins of Friary. Visit St.
Patrick's Well in the vicinity. Bruff is little better than a most
miserable street of thatched hovels, with an indifferent inn, but
affording post-horses to the traveller. Near it are a ruined Castle
and Ch. The country flat and uninteresting. See Galbally village, 9 m.
E., where are fragments of an extensive Monastery of Grey Friars, once
splendid and magnificent in religious pomp. Kilfinnan, 6 m. S.E., has
a Charter School, and ruins of an old Castle near it.
LIMERICK, 94 m. S.W. of Dublin, is seated on the Shannon. The
Cathedral presents no very striking features either in architectural
or monumental antiquities; the only piece of good old sculpture being
the fragment of a monument in the S. aisle to the memory of the Galway
family. On the N. side of the altar, the monument of the Thomonds.
See the fine view of the Shannon and surrounding country from the ch.
tower. Of the Castle, there are considerable remains on the banks of
the river; but so blended with modern houses, as to produce no good
effect or subject for the pencil. Public Edifices, Assembly Rooms,
and Theatre, elegant and commodious. Improvements rapidly proceeding.
Some remains of a Friary in Tan-yard, and Barracks. Linen and Paper
Manufactories. See Thomond's bridge; Salmon-leap, 2 m. dist.; Marble
and blue limestone Quarries; Glove Manufactory; handsome Custom-house;
and Nunnery. Good hotel accommodations. See in vicinity, at Buan-rath,
ancient monastic ruins. Cahirconlish has several castellated ruins.
Carrigogunnel, 4 m. dist., stands proudly on a steep rock: its
majestic ruins manifest the dignity of the ancient Earls of Desmond.
Castle Connel, 6 m. E., boasts all the delights of a fashionable
watering-place, celebrated for its medicinal water, and in the summer
months much frequented by people from every part of the country. Mr.
Wakefield describes it as a most beautiful village, deriving its
name from an ancient Castle built on a rock. Connigar, 4 m. S., a
delightful residence of the Bishop. Hospital has ruins of a Castle of
those Knights, and of ancient Ch. Lough Gur, near Six-Mile-Bridge,
deserves a visit for its romantic scenery, and the various Druidical
monuments in its vicinity. On an island, ruins of Castle; also remains
of Black Castle. See Cromlech and Rath on Knockfennel, with caves, and
Round Tower on the Raven's Rock. Mungret has ruins of ancient Ch. and
Abbey. Monister in Nenagh has ruins of magnificent Abbey; with Little
Friars-town; and Balinaguard, with monuments of the Croker family.
NEWCASTLE, 18 m. S.W. of Limerick, may serve as a station for those
who wish to traverse the wild scenery of the S.W.--Market House and
Assembly Rooms; elegant modern Ch. Wild, mountainous and desolate
scenery leads to Abbeyfeile, a pleasant village, 9 m. W. See ruins of
Port Castle.
PALLIS, a small village in the S.E., 12 m. from Limerick, has a fine
Ch. See ruins of Kilduff Castle.
MINERALS.
Nothing remarkable.
BOTANY.
_Euphorbia hiberna_, Knotty-rooted Spurge:--near Anakirk.
_Helleborus fœtidus_, Great Bastard Black Hellebore, Bear's-foot or
Tetter-wort:--on Slieve Baghtine and near Drumcallagher.
_Teucrium Scordium_, Water Germander:--in marshy places: on the banks
of the Shannon near Limerick.
LONDONDERRY.
The mountainous scenery of this county is described by Mr. Wakefield
as presenting neither roughness nor green herbage, but exhibiting
something between both, which may be called uncultivated vegetation;
while the lower parts are inundated with water, and in some places have
been converted into bogs. The arable land is seldom divided to any
extent, and the scenery is little enriched by the seats of the gentry
or the elegancies of cultivation. Limestone, both white and blue, is
frequent in this county; and the latter is often used in building,
being not unlike marble: yet it is sometimes found in so friable a
state as to be capable of being spread as manure without burning. In
a limestone rock on the coast, there is a remarkable cavern, called
the Robbers' Cave, which contains apartments where a large banditti
some years ago concealed themselves, as a hoard for their booty, and
were extremely troublesome to the vicinage. There are numerous rivers.
Bounded S. by Tyrone, W. by Donnegal, E. by Lough-Neagh, and N. by the
ocean.
COLERAINE, 23 m. N.E. of Derry, stands 4 m. from the sea, on the Bann;
a general station for the Giants' Causeway, particularly when Bush
Mills is crowded. See the Falls of the Bann, or Salmon Leap, well
described in Dr. Drummond's poem on the Giants' Causeway. Near the
bridge a small rath or mount like those on Salisbury Plain. Famous
for fine linens. Extensive prospects from surrounding hills. Ch.
pleasantly situated. Old-fashioned house and grounds of Jackson Hall;
at Down Hill, seat of Sir Hervey Bruce, some good paintings; waterfall
near the entrance of the grounds.
LONDONDERRY is a city 115 m. N.W. of Dublin, about 1 m. in
circumference, which the tourist will visit with interest, on account
of its well known siege in 1690. Walk round the walls; see the
Cathedral, of some antiquity (1633), the wooden bridge, 1/3 of a m.
in length over a branch of Loch-Foyle, serving also as an aqueduct.
Town-hall and Market-house; the Episcopal Palace, with the gardens
outside of the walls, from whence there is a fine prospect. The view
of the city from the bridge, with the shipping, and backed by lofty
hills, is worthy of notice. The view of this town at the distance of a
mile or two is most picturesque, seeming to be built on an island
of bold land rising from the river, and backed by extensive hills.
The philanthropic tourist will not fail to visit the Infirmary, a
handsome spacious edifice under good regulations; also the Repository
for Work, and the Institution for small loans to the industrious
poor. (See Curwen, vol. i. p. 232, for rules and regulations.) Good
accommodations and post-horses. At 3 m. N., see Aileach Neid, an
ancient rath or castle of the O'Neils, constructed like the Danish
forts, and destroyed by Murtogh O'Brian in 1101. Clady is a small
village pleasantly seated on the river Faughan, with ruins of O'Cane's
Castle near it. Lough Foyle is a fine expanse of water, 14 m. by 8,
and forms a most commodious harbour.
KILREA, 26 m. N.E. of Derry, on the borders of Antrim; stands
pleasantly on the river Bann, and is a very cheerful little town,
surrounded by opulence and industry from the linen manufacture.
MAGHERAFELT, 30 m. E. of Derry, is a very neat village, and forms a
good station for the eastern district, and for Lough-Neagh. Maghera is
a small village, in an agreeable neighbourhood. The tract of land on
this side of Carntogher Mountains, called the Braeface, exhibits some
delightful scenery. The cottages are built in tufts of hawthorn-trees,
the humble but happy abodes of an industrious peasantry; deep glens,
lined with bushes and shrubs, winding from the higher parts of the
mountain, mark the progress of the winter floods, and terminate in the
Moyola which runs below. The Danish forts or raths are numerous; and
there is some curious antique sculpture over the church door.
NEWTON LIMAVADDY, 12 m. N.E. of Derry, is a neat town of one street,
seated in a woody glen watered by a stream, and surrounded by
beautiful scenery. Between it and Derry are some very fine views of
the latter city; the Lough appearing to great advantage, bounded by
a bold and precipitous hill towards the north; also a seat of the
Beresford family, with a fine approach through a wood of stately oaks,
and a rich underwood of holly. Accommodations and roads good. At
Dungiven, 6 m. S.E., see the quarry of Alknever, which produces very
fine sandstone of the best quality and of a tawny colour, not unlike
Portland stone. Extensive mountain scenery, and pleasing landscapes on
the river Roe. See the Old Castle, ancient Ch. and Monuments; numerous
Raths, and curious Cave 2 m. distant. Magilligan is famous for its
rabbit-warren.
MINERALS.
Iron ore:--near Castle Dawson. Small veins of lead and copper. Crystals
found near Dungiven.
BOTANY.
_Agrostis stolonifera_, Fiorin-grass, called in England Joint-grass.
_Anthoxanthum odoratum_, Sweet Vernal-grass:--in woods and coarse
grounds.
_Alopecurus geniculatus_, Flute Foxtail:--in wet grounds.
_Arundo arenaria_, Sea Reed:--on the shores.
_Alchemilla vulgaris_, Ladies Mantle:--a plant of great elegance in
high pastures.
_Achillea Millefolium_, Yarrow:--in pastures on the banks of the Fahan.
_Angelica sylvestris_, Wild Angelica:--an aromatic plant in woods and
moist hedges.
_Arenaria peploides_, Sea Sand-wort:--an elegant plant, abounding on
the coast.
_Borago officinalis_, Borage:--on the banks of the Bann.
_Caltha palustris_, Marsh-Marigold:--in most parts.
_Campanula rotundifolia_, Round-leaved Bell-flower:--on the barren
pastures near Downhill.
_Convolvulus Sepium_, Great Bind-weed:--among plantations near the sea.
_Digitalis purpurea_, Foxglove:--very common near ditches.
_Elymus arenarius_, Sea Lime-grass:--on sandy grounds near the sea.
_Epilobium angustifolium_, Rosebay Willow-herb:--in hedges.
_Erica cinerea_, Fine Heath:--on moors and wastes.
_Erica multiflora_, Fir-leaved Heath:--on Magilligan Mountains.
_Festuca elatior_, Tall Fescue-grass:--in the woods of Aghanloo.
_Galium palustre_, White Ladies Bed-straw:--in moist meadows, and on
the banks of the Bann.
_Hypericum pulchrum_, Upright St. John's Wort:--an elegant plant in
woods and glens.
_Iris Pseud-acorus_, Common Flag:--a beautiful species in boggy meadows.
_Leontodon Taraxacum_, Dandelion:--in pastures.
_Lychnis Flos Cuculi_, Meadow Pink:--in low meadows at Aghanloo.
_Melica uniflora_, Single Wood-grass:--in wet wooded grounds.
_Melampyrum sylvaticum_, Wood Cow-weed:--in oak-woods.
_Nymphæa alba_, White Water-lily:--in lakes and rivers.
_Orchis Satyrion_, Orchis:--all the varieties to be found in high
grounds and wet meadows.
_Parnassia palustris_, Grass of Parnassus:--in wet grounds.
_Potentilla anserina_, Silver Weed:--in dry pastures and meadows.
_Ranunculus Flammula_, Crowfoot:--in wet meadows.
_Saponaria officinalis_, Soapwort:--in dry ditches, but rare.
_Tanacetum vulgare_, Yellow Tansey:--in the river Roe, and sandy
ditches in Drumbane.
_Trifolium alpestre_, Long-leaved Trefoil:--amongst the romantic fallen
rocks of Bengevenogh.
_Veronica maritima_, Sea Speedwell:--several varieties on the coast.
_Viola odorata_, Sweet Violet:--under hedges, bushes, &c.
_Zostera marina_, Grass-wrack:--on shallow beaches.
LONGFORD.
One of the smallest counties. A great proportion is a rude bog, denuded
of timber, and with scarcely a seat of any consequence to attract
the notice of the traveller: yet it is an object of attention to the
statist, as he will here perceive the rapid effects of industry from
the linen manufacture. Bounded W. by Roscommon, N. by Leitrim and
Cavan, E. and S. by Westmeath.
ARDAGH, 5 m. S.E. of Longford.--See some slight remains of the
Cathedral. Abbey Shrule has some ruins of a Convent of Cistertians,
near which Tenelick, the handsome house and extensive demesne of the
late Lord Annaly.
BALLIMAHON, 9 m. S. of Longford, is a small but neat town, standing on
the river Inny, in the southern district, surrounded by some pleasing
scenery.
COLEHILL, 10 m. S.E. of Longford, may be taken as the station for
visiting Abbey Shrule, &c. Near it see Tashiny Church, and ruins of an
old Castle.
EDGWORTHSTOWN, 6 m. S.E. of Longford, is a considerable and improving
village, enlivened by the residence of the literary family from
whom it takes its name. Those who have derived pleasure from the
productions of Miss Edgworth, may receive much amusement from
particulars respecting that family in _Hall's Tour_, vol. ii. p. 15
et seq. See handsome Ch., and spire of cast iron. In the vicinity are
extensive slate quarries. See _Curwen_, ii. 212.
GRANARD, 9 m. E. of Longford, is a neat town, consisting of one
handsome street about half a mile long, at the head of which stands
the Castle, built on a singular hill rising to a considerable
height. It is called the Moat of Granard, and by some supposed to
be artificial. The prospect from the summit extends into several
counties. Near it ruins of Larna Abbey, founded by St. Patrick. The
country round, bleak and mountainous. Lough-Shelon, in the vicinity,
is 7 miles in length, and 4 broad. The artist may here select some
wild scenery. In Lough-Garon; see some remains of an Abbey on an
island; and another once noble edifice in another island--the Abbey of
All Saints; and in the northern vicinity are the Lakes of Dernick and
Earne, highly interesting to the picturesque tourist. The surrender
of the invading French army and of the misguided rebels, to Lord
Cornwallis in 1798, took place at Ballynamuck, a small village not far
distant from Granard.
LANESBOROUGH, 6 m. S.W. of Longford, is seated on the Shannon, where
it spreads into Lough Ree or Reagh. See handsome stone Bridge, and
Ch. Kenagh is a small village amidst pretty scenery on a river of
that name; and near to it is Moss-Town, the splendid residence of
the Newcomen family; with ruins of Ch. and Castle in the vicinity.
Lough-Ree contains numerous islands and much picturesque scenery; and
is well deserving an artist's attention. Rathcline, about 2 m. from
the bridge, has an ancient Castle on the banks of the Shannon, at the
foot of the beautiful hill of Rathcline, and one of the most ancient
castles in the kingdom, but dismantled by Cromwell. From the summit of
the hill the prospect is most extensive.
LONGFORD, (the shire town,) 59 m. W. of Dublin, stands in the midst
of pleasing scenery on the river Camlin. See Ch.; Gaol; Court-house;
Market-house; Barracks, and Charter School. At Killashee, see ruins
of old Ch. and Brianstown Castle; also Tomonbarry Bridge over the
Shannon. Newton Forbes is a small but pleasing village, with a good Ch.
MINERALS.
The soil generally consists of argillaceous, siliceous, and calcareous
strata; with flags and slates, but there is a fine field of research
for the mineralogist in the mountains.
BOTANY.
_Inula Helenium_, Elecampane:--in meadows.
_Lichen herbaceus_, Green Lichen:--on ash-trees.
_Oenanthe crocata_, Hemlock Dropwort:--in marshy grounds.
[Illustration:
_T. Fielding fc._
_Carlingford Harbour & Castle._]
LOUTH
Is a small maritime county, undulating in general, though some well
wooded hills at intervals afford variety to the picturesque eye. It
contains numerous relics of antiquity, being in the heart of what was
the Old English Pale. Bounded S. and S.W. by Eastmeath; W. Monaghan and
Cavan; N. Armagh and Down; E. by the Irish Channel.
ATHERDEE, or ARDEE, 12 m. S.W. of Dundalk. See the Gaol, once an
extensive fortress, gloomy and yet venerable. Ch., a mass of ruins
except the chapel; a high wall encircles it, and its solemn appearance
is much increased by the lofty trees which shade the sepulchral heaps
that surround its mouldering walls. See Castle Guard, supposed by some
to have been a sepulchral monument, perhaps a mote or meeting-place
for the chiefs and people, 90 feet high, circumference at base 600,
140 at summit, with remains of two concentric octagonal buildings: the
trench wide and deep, well planted. At Millextown, see ancient Ch.
with gable end at some distance, reported to have been blown there in
a gale of wind!
CARLINGFORD, 7 m. E. of Dundalk, of great antiquity, seated on a
bay 3 m. in length, capable of receiving the largest vessels; but
yet so full of rocks as to be extremely dangerous. But even these
rocks are advantageous to the epicurist, for here he will find the
finest green-finned oysters, long so celebrated among the lovers of
good eating. When first founded, it consisted entirely of castles,
or fortified mansions, erected for the protection of the English
Pale against the incursions of the unconquered northern Septs. The
principal Castle has been attributed to King John, or perhaps to De
Courcy; very well situated to defend a narrow pass at the foot of the
mountains close by the sea, where only a few men can march abreast, as
there are most dangerous rocks washed by the sea on one side, whilst
the other consists of lofty mountains almost impassable. The Castle
itself is now a mere mass of ruins, triangular in its shape, and
seated on a solid rock, with walls 11 feet in thickness. On the S.
side enough remains to mark the ancient apartments. The view from it
is extremely fine, with the ocean on one side, and on the other the
lofty mountains of Mourne, which present a sublime spectacle. At the
S. side of the town are the picturesque ruins of an ancient Dominican
Abbey, founded by De Burgh, earl of Ulster, in the 14th century.
Of this abbey little remains but the Ch., whose ivyed towers and
battlemented walls present a very interesting object, much heightened
by the surrounding romantic mountain scenery. See the lime-quarry,
1/4 m. distant, at the foot of a high mountain, mixed with basaltes,
crystallizations of pyrites, shells, &c. From the situation of the
town, the sun is lost several hours behind the hills after sunrise and
before sunset.
CASTLE BELLINGHAM, 7 m. S. of Dundalk, is seated on an extensive but
shallow bay; pleasant village, with good Inn. Good station for the
sportsman, plenty of aquatic wild fowl. See at Greenmount, curious
earth-works on summit of hill, with a tumulus: prospect extensive.
DROGHEDA, 18 m. S. of Dundalk, (partly in Louth, partly in Eastmeath,
being divided by the Boyne) is also a county of itself. Here are 9
Catholic chapels, 2 Friaries, 2 Nunneries, and 1 Ch. (St. Peter's)
elegantly finished, near which, in churchyard, see remains of ancient
castle. The view on approaching the town is beautiful; house of the
Catholic primate a striking object. Harbour good; trade extensive;
supply of fish excellent. See Tholsel, a handsome edifice. St. Mary's,
now a mere mass of ruins, with the exception of a roofed chapel, which
is used for divine service; but it deserves notice for a lofty arch at
the S. end, which marks the former splendour of the edifice. Bevrac
Mount, a large artificial tumulus, stands about 600 yards distant. It
appears to have been one of the large Raths raised in ancient times.
The town is interesting for the part it bore in the Irish wars; and
sustained a memorable siege in Cromwell's time. Near it is a thin
blue stone, shaped like the bottom of a boat, on which many of the
Catholics believe St. Dennis sailed over to France. Ascend the Boyne 2
m., and visit the field of battle where William conquered, and where
Schomberg fell, also Walker the patriotic defender of Derry. The view
of the scene from a rising ground, looking down upon it, is extremely
fine. Mark the vale losing itself amidst bold acclivities; on the
right the Obelisk on a rising ground, a noble pillar and judiciously
placed. Let the tourist place himself at its foot, and recall the
events of past times! Then proceed further 9 m. W. of Drogheda, where
is a beautiful wooded glen celebrated as the route through which King
William's army marched to the ford in the Boyne water on the eventful
1st of July, 1690. The scenery around is highly interesting. Collon
village, 6 m. distant, must not be omitted by the statistical tourist,
as an instance of what can be done in Ireland by modern improvement.
The exertions of Mr. Foster, in this place, have been well appreciated
by Mr. Wakefield, who describes it as delightfully situated amongst
hills, whilst the extensive plantations of its benevolent founder are
conspicuous in every direction for many miles. Mr. W. adds, that this
domain commands a prospect of singular magnificence; the immediate
foreground, looking N.E., consists of a declivity of tilled land
bordered on each side by beautiful plantations; and the eye, then
passing over some miles of country, catches a view of Carlingford-bay,
forming a watery expanse of great extent, and of the coast stretching
to a considerable distance, with the mountains surrounding the
bay, and those of Mourne, still higher, and which have a blacker
appearance. The blue colour of the bay, contrasted with the yellow
tint of the sandy beach by which it is bordered, the Carlingford
mountains in the vicinity, and the more elevated dusky ones of
Mourne, stretching inland in the form of an immense amphitheatre,
form, in Mr. W's opinion, a spectacle grand and magnificent. The
village, when he visited it, consisted of about one hundred neat
houses, all whitewashed; with a Ch. surrounded by trees, and a river
running through it, over which there is a stone bridge; the whole
much enlivened by a bleaching-green on its banks. All this, together
with a cotton manufactory, has been the labour of 40 years. It is
highly worthy of notice, and is easily accessible by the good roads
in its vicinity. The botanist will receive much pleasure from the
inspection of the very fine collection of indigenous and exotic shrubs
which Mr. Foster has collected round his comfortable mansion. See
also _Curwen's Letters_, vol. ii. p. 292. Observe the Ch. tower, of
chaste Gothic architecture; the curious winter garden. In a romantic
valley, 5 m. W. from Drogheda and about 1-1/2 m. from the banks of the
Boyne, stand the once massy but now dilapidated ruins of Mellifont
Abbey, founded for Cistertian monks, by O'Carrol prince of Uriel, in
the 12th century, and a spot of great interest in the history of the
English invasion of Ireland; for here died, and now lies interred,
Dervorgilla, daughter of O'Malaghlin, king of Meath, a second Helen,
who being married to Tigernach O'Rourke prince of Brefinny, was basely
ravished by Mac Murrogh king of Leinster, who was in consequence
forced to fly from his dominions, and sought that succour from Henry
II. which led to the subjugation of the island. At the Dissolution it
was given to Sir Edward Moore, who made it a castellated residence;
but it afterwards became a ruin, and within the last fifty years has
suffered extremely. The most curious part is a remnant of an octagonal
baptistery. See _Hoare_, p. 242. Monasterboice, a village about 3 m.
from Drogheda, has a good specimen of the ancient round towers, 110
feet in height and 51 in circumference, with walls of the thickness
of 3 feet 6 inches. The door is at present only 6 feet from the
ground; and it appears to have contained six stories, from the stones
that project in the interior. The tower itself is built of a slaty
stone, frequent in the hills in the vicinity; but the door is cased
of freestone. Its summit is already in decay. Near it are the ruins
of two Chapels; also two very curious crosses, the largest 18 feet in
height, with a variety of sculptures. A good view is given by Grose.
See _Hoare_, p. 237. Torfeckan village stands near the sea, and about
3-1/2 m. from Drogheda. It was once a place of some importance, though
now a paltry village, with nothing remarkable but some towers of its
ancient Castle, fast falling into decay; and connected with some ruins
of an Abbey founded for nuns in the 12th century. Till within these
few years the Castle had been habitable, and was a frequent residence
of the Archbishops of Armagh, to which see it belongs. See ruins of
Glasspistol Castle.
DUNDALK, 40 m. N. of Dublin, is one of the most ancient towns in
Ireland, claiming an early foundation from its bay and harbour on the
Irish Channel.--Being at the very extremity of what was called the
"English Pale," it often became exposed to hostilities, and presented
a mass of castles and towers, for the purposes of defence, of which
some remains may still be traced. See the remains of an ancient
monastery for Crouched Friars, since turned into an hospital: also
some ruins of a house of Gray Friars, of which a curious square tower
still remains; the prospect from its summit is rich and extensive.
Notice the Market-house. Inquire for Dundalk cambrics. See handsome
seat of Lord Roden, with curious antique portraits of Hen. VIII. and
Anne Bulleyn; spacious gardens; extensive well wooded demesne. See
Court-house, Gaol, Barracks, and Charter School. Town irregular, yet
neat; many of the houses displaying considerable taste and elegance.
About a mile westward, on the summit of a hill, seen for several
miles along the great north road, and commanding a most extensive
prospect of the Mourne and Carlingford mountains, are some remains of
a fine old Danish station and rath; a little below which, the tourist
will notice the ruins of an old Ch. or Chapel, enveloped in ivy, and
pointing out a Catholic cemetery of great sanctity. On the side of
the hill stands the Castle of Castletown, an ancient edifice with
towers and battlements, but partly repaired and habitable, forming the
offices to a more modern mansion close to it. This castle was taken
and sacked in the 14th century by Edward Bruce; and there are some
apparent vestiges of those times in earth-works on the side of the
hill, towards the river. The village itself is small, and contains
nothing else deserving of notice. Balrichan is a peninsula, about 2 m.
from Dundalk, containing several curious antiquities; some Druidical
remains; ruins of a Castle with subterraneous cave; the Giant's load,
a massy stone 12 feet long, 6 feet square, resting on three uprights;
Mount Albani, an earthen camp, with a tumulus: also Castle Rath, and
the tower of Ballug. At Bellurgan, see the park. Piedmont, a beautiful
residence of Lord Clermont; ruins of old Ch. and several Castles.
Carrickasticken has several raths, or sepulchral mounts. Fanghar, 2
m. N., has curious artificial mount, composed of stones and tarras,
60 feet high. At Killincool, on the Atherdee road, a fine old Castle,
with numerous vaults and secret passages. Lurgan Green, a smart
agreeable village; and a few miles N., see the Jonesborough mountains,
in all their native wildness. Near them is Ravensdale, romantically
seated on the rise of a mountain, with fine hanging-woods on every
side. On the summit of a rocky hill, 4 m. S., curious rath at Miltown;
and, close to the frontier of the English Pale,--in appearance and
situation very much resembling Bolsover Castle in England,--stand the
majestic ruins of Roche Castle, now in a state of demolition, the
victim of Cromwellian policy. It is well situated for defence; and the
builder having adopted the form of the precipice on which it stands,
for additional security, its form approaches near to a semicircle in
the interior, though on the outside it more resembles a triangle. Its
greatest length is 80 yards; its breadth at the broadest part is 40.
At one corner is a lofty tower, once august but now in ruins. The view
from it is not only extensive, but extremely fine.
DUNLEER, 10 m. S. of Dundalk, is a decayed village, but with good
inns, being on the high north road; may be made a station for many of
the objects in this vicinity.
LOUTH, 7 m. S.W. of Dundalk, is now but a decayed village, though
giving name to the county; once famous for an Abbey and Priory, but
all vestiges swept away.
MINERALS.
Nothing remarkable.
BOTANY.
_Artemisia maritima β_, a variety of Sea Wormwood:--on sea-shore.
_Bunias Cakile_, Sea Rocket:--on the sands near Maiden Tower near
Drogheda.
_Cuscuta europæa_, Dodder:--on dry sandy banks near Maiden Tower near
Drogheda.
_Lepidium ruderale_, Narrow-leaved Wild Cress, or Dittander; near the
sea.
_Salicornia europæa herbacea_, Jointed Glasswort:--on the sea shore.
_Sambucus nigra_, Elder:--in hedges.
_Saponaria officinalis_, Soapwort:--in ditches.
MAYO
Forms the N.W. extremity of the island, and is one of the largest
counties, with a great extent of coast. Great part of it is
mountainous, boggy, and destitute of roads; but it contains much
picturesque scenery highly deserving of investigation, particularly
the two lofty mountains of Nephin and Croagh Patrick, the latter of
which is an enormous pyramid, and may be seen 40 miles distant. This
county abounds, especially in the rocky districts, with _Turlachs_, a
name given to plains, some of them very extensive without any visible
communication with brooks or rivers, which in the summer afford a rich
and firm pasturage, but in the winter become perfect lakes; the waters
rising and falling through rocky clefts in the bottoms. Bounded, S. by
Galway; W. Atlantic Ocean; N. by Sligo; and E. by Roscommon.
ACHILL ISLANDS, 16 m. W. from Castlebar, lie at the mouth of Clewbay,
and afford much amusement to the sportsman. The scenery wild and rude.
BALLINROBE, 11 m. S. of Castlebar, a well-built town. See Charter
School and ruins of Abbey; ancient Castle, now Horse Barracks; the
inn clean and comfortable. At Ballaghadireen, wild and romantic
scenery; ancient Castle in ruins. Ballyhannys, 16 m. N.E. has ruins
of venerable Abbey. Cong, now an inconsiderable village, was once the
capital of the Kings of Connaught; and stands in a romantic situation
between the Loughs Corrib and Mask. It contains some ruins of an
Abbey, which, in consequence of its arches being partly semicircular
and partly Gothic or pointed, is supposed to be as early as the 12th
century. Long celebrated for its sanctity, it became for ages the
sepulchral depôt of the powerful and the holy, the chieftain and
the priest, whose dust lies mingled with its sombre yet majestic
ruins. Near it a broad river rushes at once from beneath a sloping
bank, and after a rapid course loses itself in the Lough. This is
supposed to be the outlet of a subterraneous channel, through which
the superfluous waters of Lough Mask are discharged. The scenery
around is most romantic. Hollymount, 6 m. N.E., has a neat Ch.; also
Newbrook House, seat of Lord Clanmorris. Lough Carra, 3 m. N., has
some wild scenery, especially a tract of rocky ground, at a distance
like an immense sheet of white stone, deserving mineralogical notice.
Lough Mask offers some good scenery:--inquire for the gillaroo trout
with gizzards like a fowl. Neal village, 3 m. S., with magnificent
mansion of Lord Kilmaine. About 16 m. N.E., visit the Abbey of Urlare
in a wild, romantic, secluded district. The walls are still entire,
and were never very lofty; the eastern window is very fine, with the
remains of an altar beneath it. It was anciently a place of great
sanctity; and the sepulchral depository of the surrounding chieftains.
Archdall states, from tradition, that a town once existed in its
vicinity.
CASTLEBAR, 119 m. N.W. from Dublin, is the county town; of good
appearance, and in a romantic situation on a river near the Lake
of Raheens. See the venerable Castle of Lord Lucan; Barracks; two
Bridges; and Ch. Memorable as being taken by the French in 1798. At
Ball, or Ballagh, see remains of Abbey, lofty round tower, and holy
well; and near to it the plains of Mayo, where once stood a city,
with ruins of Cathedral and other vestiges. Belcarna, 2 m. S.E., in
romantic situation on banks of a fine river; Ch., and mansion of
Lord Tyrawley. Ballintubber Abbey has extensive remains, 5 m. S.W.,
a mass of ruins, but still offering some very fine specimens of
ancient ecclesiastical architecture in its solemn Gothic arcades.
Grose has given a fine view of the interior of the Abbey, which, he
observes, was a noble structure, of excellent workmanship, and the
whole admirably finished. The existing ruins are by no means equal
to the original extent; but much gratification will be afforded by
the examination of the chancel part, still in good preservation in
consequence of the roof remaining, with two Chapels on each side into
which the visitor is admitted through lofty Gothic arches. The roof
of the chancel is curious, its groinings springing not from pillars,
but from consoles in the side-walls, highly ornamented with sculpture.
The great altar still remains under the east window, which consists
of three arches; and the altars yet exist in the smaller chapels.
See the noble arch, 45 feet in height, which once supported the now
fallen tower; also the principal door, a pointed arch supported by
pillars. In various parts of the thick walls are doors and passages,
speaking of secrecy and seclusion, and dear to the lover of romance.
Croagh Patrick mountain, 2660 feet high, presents a fine effect to
the S.W. Foxford, 8 m. N.E., is in decay, but sweetly seated on the
river Moy: near it are ruins of an old Castle, with lake, and ruins of
Ch. At Kilkelly, 10 m. E. is a remarkable echo, repeating seven times
clearly and distinctly, in a wild romantic glen, ornamented with thick
foliage and a murmuring Stream. Lough Conn, 5 m. N.E., is surrounded
by picturesque scenery; with ruins of Friary on Erew peninsula. Mount
Nephin, a solitary mountain 2640 feet high, stands at the pass of
Barnagee, with most extensive prospect, about 8 m. N. of Castlebar. At
Strade, 5 m. E., are some very solemn ruins of an ancient Dominican
Abbey of the 13th century, which contains some curious specimens of
antique tombs of the superior order of Irish chieftains, adorned with
figures in relief. See also the Gothic ornaments of the high altar.
Whilst in this vicinity the antiquarian tourist will not neglect to
visit the round tower of Turlogh, 70 feet in height, 9 in internal
diameter, and having its entrance 29 feet from the ground. It is built
close to the Ch.; or rather the Ch. has been erected so close to it as
to touch it, and, though of more modern structure, is now in ruins.
KILLALA, a seaport, 15 m. N. of Castlebar, is memorable for the
landing of the French in 1798. Situation pleasant. See Cathedral;
episcopal palace; round tower. Ballina, 5 m. S.E., stands pleasantly
on the river Moy, with a good salmon fishery; some ancient Castles
in vicinity. Downpatrick, 12 m. W., has some remains of very ancient
fortifications, with curious natural arch formed by the waves on the
rocky shore; several other caverns and much romantic scenery in the
vicinity. At Mullet in the western district is much scenery worth
seeing, also a very ancient and curious monument in good preservation,
called by Governor Pownall, in the 7th vol. of _Archæologia_, a ship
Temple, upon the summit of a conical hill. The river Moy, which
divides this county from Sligo, has on its banks three round towers,
and ruins of several Abbeys. Moyne Abbey, 2 m. distant, has most
venerable ruins in a romantic sequestered situation on the Moy. The
ruins extensive and in good preservation; scenery most picturesque.
3 m. distant are some curious remains of an ancient Franciscan
Monastery, called Rossarick. It is built of blueish stone, with arches
principally Gothic. The tower remains, and has a confession-box of
hewn stone with small oriels or little ears on each side, through
which the penitents whispered their sorrows.
WESTPORT, 8 m. S.W. of Castlebar, is a regular built modern town,
with many handsome houses and a most excellent inn, which renders
it a good station for the tourist, as it lies well for the whole
western district, in which there is much romantic scenery, diversified
by marine views, lakes, and rivers. See Marquis of Sligo's elegant
residence. Aghagower, 10 m. S.E., has ruins of fine old Abbey and
round tower. Burrishoole, 5 m. N., has extensive ruins of Abbey.
Carigahooly has ruins of Grana Uile's Castle. Croagh Patrick must be
visited. Glanmire interests the mineralogist by its slate quarries.
Morisk on the sea coast is supposed to be the place where St. Patrick
drove all the venomous reptiles into the ocean. Newport Pratt has a
good harbour with most romantic scenery, of mountain, rock, sea, and
islands. Rockfleet is an old Castle of Grace O'Malley, or Grana Uile.
MINERALS.
Iron-ore in Clonean river.
BOTANY.
Requires a scientific explorer.
MEATH:--
_See_ EASTMEATH.
MONAGHAN
Is a hilly county, not in ridges, but scattered without any form
or regularity. It is well cultivated and populous; and has several
handsome seats, whose surrounding plantations give a cheerful effect to
the scenery. Linen manufacture extensive. Bounded S. and W. by Cavan
and Fermanagh; N. by Tyrone; E. by Armagh; S.E. by Eastmeath and Louth.
CARRICKMACROSS, 15 m. S.E. of Monaghan, is a considerable village,
central to the southern district, with endowed school. Some small
lakes in vicinity.
CASTLEBLANEY, 10 m. S.E. of Monaghan, is a considerable village
with good Ch. Near it the Castle from whence it takes its name, the
residence of Lord Blaney, a beautiful place, though on a small scale,
seated on the banks of a well wooded lake, surrounded by pretty rising
hills. Here are some ruins of the old Castle, but not of earlier
date than the reign of James I. See neat Market-house, and examine
the Improvement Farm at Blaney-lodge. Ballybay, 5 m. N.W., is a neat
village, with 2 small lakes that merit notice.
CLONES, or CLOWNISH, 10 m. W. of Monaghan, is a comfortable village;
station for the western district. See two Raths of Danish erection;
remnants of Abbey for Augustines, also of ancient Castle. Market-cross
of very antique appearance. Curious burial-places near the ruins of
abbey, with ornamented tombstones. The Round Tower in the cemetery has
walls four feet thick; contiguous to it a great tomb or stone coffin,
with antique inscriptions. Close to it is an immense rath on summit
of a hill. Numerous Danish forts all around. In Aghabeg, see numerous
lakes: also the magnificent demesne of Dawsongrove, with mausoleum.
Bellamont forest affords some very fine scenery. Near Clones is a well
called Grana-buy-more, celebrated for curing the jaundice. Drum is a
pleasant little village. Good plantations at Newbliss.
GLASSLOUGH, 5 m. N.E. of Monaghan, has a fine seat in vicinity, with
a beautiful sheet of water. See Drumbanagher, to the W. a remarkable
high hill, on the summit of which, remains of a fort, memorable in
the rebellion of 1641. Emyvale is a pleasant little village in the
vicinity; near it Eregil Ch., with numerous small lakes.
MONAGHAN, 63 m. N. of Dublin; the assize town. Town neat, but
whimsically built, diverging triangularly from the centre. Handsome
Market-house.
MINERALS.
Lead; antimony; manganese; ironstone; marble; coal; various ochres;
fuller's-earth, and potter's clay. The principal lead ores are at
Castleblaney, and contiguous to the Ch. of Clontibrett.
BOTANY.
Rich in aquatic plants generally, and in alpine plants on the
Slievebaught or Slabay range of mountains, bordering on Tyrone.
QUEEN'S COUNTY
Presents an immense variety of objects to the antiquary; whilst to the
statist it exhibits the effects of modern improvement, having become
a fruitful and pleasant district instead of bogs and deserts. Bounded
W. by King's County; N. by Kildare; E. by Carlow; S. by Kilkenny and
Tipperary.
BURROS, 12 m. S.W. of Maryboro; a neat village, forming a good
station for the western district, having an excellent inn. Ruins of
Ballaghmore Castle, 3 m. W.; from whence may be visited Monaincha
Abbey in Tipperary. Grantstown Castle near Rathdowny. On the hill of
Kyle, a curious remnant of ancient judicature, the Brehon's Chair,
or Fairy Chair, as called in the vicinity. It is very near the top
of the hill, on its eastern side, and formed from the solid rock;
was the judgement-seat and public court of the Brehon, or chief of
the Fitzpatricks. See at Skirk, a very curious Pagan fane, situated
on a lofty hill, from whence the eye has a most extensive range. It
consists of an immense large earthen mound, the area surrounded by a
deep entrenchment, and in the centre, a pyramidal stone 6 feet high,
with the stumps of others which formed a temple. Towards the E. see a
cromlech; and on the north side, contiguous to the Parish Ch., a high
keep, or exploratory fort.
MARYBOROUGH, 40 m. S.W. of Dublin; the assize town. See ancient
Castle, demolished by Cromwell. 9 m. S.W. is Abbey Leix, the seat
of Lord de Vesci, a considerable domain covered with old timber,
and intersected by the river Nore, which, with the woods, forms its
principal charm, as the grounds are flat and unvaried. The statist
will contemplate with pleasure several neat villages in its immediate
vicinity, erected by the patronizing exertions of the noble landlord.
Aghaboe, near Abbey Leix, has remains of ancient Abbey and Cathedral,
of which little more than the chancel now exists; remnants of Gothic
architecture, in the windows and various niches, canopies and
concentric mouldings which yet adorn its mouldering walls; but much
injured by a late rector. The Abbey of Aghamacart lies to the S.
about 6 m. from Aghaboe, once very extensive, and now in ruins. At a
distance nothing appears but the gloomy belfry; but the visitor soon
arrives at an arch of good workmanship which opens into the body of
the ruins, or rather into the remains of the chapel. There is, indeed,
little to attract attention, were it not for a legendary tale, of a
monk whose affection for a lovely nun was met with such reciprocity
on the part of the lady, that gossip scandal would soon have spread
her thousand wings. To expiate his crime and escape reproach, the
monk flung himself from the battlements of a tower and perished; but
the fate of the unhappy fair is wrapped up in oblivion. Aghamacart
Castle, now forming a total yet picturesque ruin, is not of earlier
date than the reign of Elizabeth. Ballinakill, 9 m. S., ruins of
Castle, demolished by Cromwell. About 15 m. S.E., on a small point
of land watered by the Barrow, stand the very picturesque ruins of
Cloghgrennan Castle, deeply embosomed in foliage and entwined with
ivy. About 4 m. E. is Dunamase, a hill fort, which, though almost
in total ruins, affords to the antiquary and to the man of taste a
very good specimen of the military manners of earlier times. Though
standing on an insulated rock, its name signifies the "Fort of the
Plain." This rock is inaccessible on all sides except the east,
which, in its perfect state, was defended by the Barbican, of which
a considerable part remains. Here began the principal defences, with
ditches on each side, until stopped by rocks, where walls seem to have
been erected, with two towers for the protection of the Barbican, from
whence the visitor enters the Ballium or Bailey, the gate of which is
7 feet wide, with walls six feet in thickness, and the remains of a
parapet crenelled and embattled. This leads to the upper Ballium, the
gate of which is in a tower, from whence fragments of walls extend
on both sides; here too was the keep, with a sally-port and prison.
This fortress belonged to Dermod McMurrough, King of Leinster; but
the present remains are rather of later date; perhaps the work of the
Pembroke family in the 13th century. It is now repairing by Sir H.
Parnell, with judicious attention to its gothic grandeur. Doonaun,
a village about 16 m. S.E., has extensive coalpits, which claim the
notice of the mineralogist by rocks of whinstone resting on a stratum
or column of basaltes, 40 feet below the surface; below which are
strata of slate and iron ore. Great Heath, or Rathean Common, 2 m. N.
of Maryborough, is memorable for a battle in the 3d century between
the people of Munster and Leinster; and the bones of the slain are
often dug up at the present day. Killone Hill is conical, with curious
cavern and subterranean lake, highly worth the tourist's notice. Near
it a fine quarry of calcareous stone equal to Portland. The Maragah,
or Margy Mountains in the S.E. present a fine field for the geologist.
About 1-1/2 m. N. of Dunamase, the tourist will descry a small
fortress, called Shean Castle, standing on the summit of one of the
high, steep, conical hills, so frequent in this part of the county.
It is still habitable, though its surrounding defences have been
long in ruins, demolished in the Civil wars. Stradbally, 6 m. S.E.,
neat village, handsome Ch., good Market-house, and Charter School.
See Brockly Park, the magnificent seat of Earl Roden; and Stradbally
Hall, that of Mr. Crosbie: about 4 m. S. is Dun-cliun-poic, or Dun of
Clipoke, an insulated rock with curious caves; near it is a tombstone
with Druidic inscription. About 6 m. S. from Stradbally, stands the
Castle of Timahoe, an edifice not older than the reign of Elizabeth,
but now completely in ruins, having stood a siege in the civil wars,
at which time it was dilapidated. Its area is now filled with cabins
of the peasantry: there is nothing very interesting to the tourist;
but close to it there is one of the ancient round towers, now fast
mouldering away. The entrance is at a height of fourteen feet from
the ground, and is ornamented with a chevron or zigzag moulding, a
circumstance which opens a wide field of conjecture as to date and
origin.
MOUNTMELLICK, 6 m. N.E. of Maryborough, is a pretty little village,
perfectly in unison with its inhabitants who are Quakers. Near it see
Ballyfinn, a modern house of the Rt. Hon. W. W. Pole: fine lake; noble
lawns; elegant apartments; well wooded demesne; and most extensive
prospects. See ruins of Cloneslee and Cuffe Castles; also freestone
quarry at Rosenallis.
MOUNTRATH, 7 m. W. of Maryborough; pleasant little village on
the Nore, with good river scenery. From hence the picturesque or
geological tourist may visit the mountains of Slieve Boomy, or Bloom,
in the N.W.
PORTARLINGTON, 9 m. N.E., stands partly in King's County, (where it
has been noticed,) large, populous, and genteel. At Ballybrittas,
ruins of Castle, demolished by Cromwell; with numerous country
seats in vicinity; particularly Dawson's Grove, residence of Lord
Portarlington. Near this town, see Lea Castle, famous in the wars
of the 13th century, and standing on a rising ground. This edifice
manifests the strength that was given to these dens; for its walls are
8 feet thick in some places, in others 10. It was 60 feet long, 46
feet broad; its arches all circular except one pointed one. The river
Barrow secured one side, and filled the ditches of the other; so that
it was only approachable by a narrow causeway 100 feet in length, a
good defence before the introduction of artillery. See ruins of Morit
Castle near Emo, in a wild valley, intersected by a rivulet.
MINERALS.
Coal and iron ore in Slewmargy; Chalybeate Spa, near Portarlington.
BOTANY.
Yet unexplored.
ROSCOMMON.
A small inland county, not remarkable for grandeur of scenery,
consisting principally of rich, extensive pasturage, intermixed with
considerable masses of bog. There are some pretty views on the banks
of the Shannon, which forms its eastern boundary. For the mineralogist
there is little to interest, as its basis throughout is almost one
continued sheet of limestone. Bounded E. by the Shannon; S. by Galway;
W. by Mayo; N. by Sligo; N.E. by Leitrim.
ABBEY BOYLE, or BOYLE, 20 m. N. of Roscommon, pleasantly seated on the
river Boyle. See two stone Bridges, on one of which is a pedestrian
statue of William III.; fine Ch. and barrack. In Lord Kingston's
demesne the attention of the antiquary will be turned to the ruins
of the ancient Abbey, which stand within it at the back of the town,
presenting a most elegant specimen of the architecture of the 13th
century, when it was founded for Cistertian monks in honour of the
Virgin. It is now a mere picturesque mass of ruin, filled with lofty
trees and much thorny underwood. The approach from the bridge is
very grand; especially the effect of the tower, covered with thick
foliage, and springing from great arches which were 45 feet in height
before the ravages of time had spread the floor with the relics of
the mouldering walls. The interior has once been very fine; solid
walls fill up the spaces between the pillars, supposed to have been
erected in the reign of Elizabeth, when this dissolved monastery was
turned into a fortified post, for which it was certainly well fitted,
and actually stood a siege from the Earl of Tyrone in 1595. The east
window, when in its glory, must have been extremely beautiful. Near
to the Abbey are some vestiges of one of the round towers; and every
thing around it would tend to produce a most impressive scene, were
it not that the cloisters have been long occupied as a barrack: yet
the silence and gloom of the interior, with the solemn arcades, and
the emblems of mortality that lay scattered over its surface, will
not fail to gratify the contemplative visitor. Cambo Castle is about
2 m. distant. About 7 m. from Boyle, and upon the edge of a very
extensive bog, are the ruins of the Abbey of Clonshanville, now almost
a total ruin. Of the cloisters no remnant exists; but the tower, 60
feet high, forms a pleasing object, with the few Gothic fragments at
its base. Croghan is immortalized as the residence of Cathmor, the
friend of strangers: here is an ancient Rath, also a sacred Cave of
the Druids, and near to it Relig-na-Riagh, or the resting-place of the
Kings of Connaught, an immense cemetery in a circle 200 feet diameter.
Visit French Park. See Kingston Hall, an elegant mansion of Lord
Lorton. Lough Arrow, 3 m. N. of Boyle, is beautifully studded with
wooded islands: also Lough Gara to the W. Lough Glinn is also in this
vicinity; on its banks stands a noble mansion of Viscount Dillon, with
some extensive grounds, of modern erection and improvement; and on the
opposite shore the tourist may visit two ruinous towers, which are
all that remain of a once very extensive antique fortress, a feudal
residence of the old barons of Ophaley. One of these towers has long
been used as a temporary prison.
ATHLONE, 12 m. S.E. of Roscommon, is principally in Westmeath, where
it will be described.
ELPHIN, 13 m. N. of Roscommon, though an episcopal see, is only
a small neat village, celebrated as the birth-place of Oliver
Goldsmith. See the magnificent palace; also the Diocesan school-house.
Ballintobber was the residence of O'Connor, king of Connaught, but
now a dilapidated village. Here are some very extensive ruins of
the ancient Castle, built round a square, flanked by four towers of
different forms. The vestiges are in a most dilapidated state, but
possess some further interest from an anecdote recorded by Grose of
a young Irish _Gentleman_, during the civil wars, who behaved with
the most devoted bravery in an action fought close to the walls.
When victory declared for the Parliamentary forces, this youth,
disdaining to fly with his party, placed himself at the corner of a
ditch, where he defended himself with his pike against five horsemen
who fired on him, when a gigantic English soldier, getting behind
him, slew him. Being stripped and his cap taken off, long tresses
of flaxen hair fell down, which exciting further curiosity, it was
at length discovered that this unhappy youth was a female. See Lough
Kee, a romantic lake, adorned with finely wooded rising grounds; on a
peninsula are the very picturesque ruins of St. John's Castle. In the
Lough is an island called _MacDermot's_, after a chieftain of that
name, stated by tradition to have been of a very jealous disposition,
and to have confined his wife in it, whenever he was engaged in any
of the warlike contests of those turbulent times. If the legends,
however, are to be credited, the lady certainly gave him sufficient
cause for his jealousy; and all his precautions were unavailing: for
it is said that her lover used to swim to his nocturnal visits as
Leander did to Hero. The obstacles he had to surmount were indeed
numerous; for the island is surrounded by a wall close to the
water's edge, encircling a gloomy tower now overgrown with ivy. At
present the interior is filled with trees, and the island presents
a picturesque and singular appearance. On another island are the
ruins of a religious edifice, supposed to be founded by the Culdees,
and now called Ennismacreeny Abbey. The walls of the Ch. are yet
standing, solemn and sombre, the windows being only long loop-holes;
at some distance is a little dark Chapel, which sufficiently marks
the gloomy seclusion of those superstitious times. Round Tower at
Oran. Strokestown is a neat village; near it the magnificent mansion
of Ross Mahon, Esq. Visit Tulsk, a mere hamlet, but worth notice for
its antiquities. Here are some remains of an ancient Abbey, little
known, and supposed to have belonged to the Dominican order. Nothing
exists now but some bare walls, marking the site of the Ch., and part
of a square tower; but it seems never to have been very lofty nor very
extensive. Near it is Tormonia, the ancient residence of O'Connor, of
whose Castle there are some remains.
ROSCOMMON, 70 m. W. of Dublin, is the assize town.--Ancient Castle
stood several sieges in Elizabeth's reign and in the Civil wars; now
an extensive mass of ruins. See the once august ruins of the ancient
Abbey, founded by Cathal Crowdeargh O'Connor, king of Connaught, in
the 13th century, whose tomb may be traced in its solemn aisle.
Little remains except some shattered windows and ruined arcades. Near
to the modern mansion of Castle Coote are some remains of the old
Castle, erected by Sir Charles Coote in the reign of James the First.
It stood two sieges during the Civil wars, but is at present a mere
mass of ruins; forming, however, a picturesque object in the demesne.
See elegant mansion at Castlereagh; and a curious battlemented house,
called Donamon Castle, may be visited from Roscommon. Its appearance
is extremely whimsical, being square with projecting turrets at the
angles. A lofty range of stone steps leads up to a circular doorway,
nearly as high as the roof; and within is a similar range leading to
the upper apartments. It is in good repair and habitable. In front is
the river Suck. About 7 m. N.E. of Roscommon, the tourist may visit
the picturesque but not very lofty or extensive ruins of the Abbey of
Clonthuskart, in such a state of dilapidation that little more can be
accurately traced than the principal chapel, the eastern window of
which must once have been extremely grand. Kilmaine is the demesne of
the Crofton family, within whose bounds is the hill of Kilmaine, on
the summit of which is a small ancient Ch., partly in ruins. The place
is solemn and fitted for meditation, were not the visitor's attention
completely engaged by the very extensive prospect which bursts upon
him over no less than sixteen counties.
MINERALS.
Nothing remarkable yet discovered.
BOTANY.
_Aristolochia Clematitis_, Climbing Birthwort:--in the woods of Briole
near Athlone.
_Cyclamen europæum_, Sowbread:--near Mount Talbot.
SLIGO.
Nearly half the outline of this county is maritime. Very mountainous,
especially in the Coolavin district, where the Curlew Hills offer their
virgin bosoms to the mineralogist. The ox mountain (Sliebh Dham) with a
long train of desolate hills extends from the boggy maritime plains of
Tyreragh; whilst the rough mountain land, from Lough Gilly, stretching
eastward, is marked by the lofty eminences of Samore and Benbulb. Much
lake and river scenery. Bounded S. by Mayo; W. by Atlantic Ocean; N. by
Leitrim; and E. by Roscommon.
ACHONRY, 14 m. S.W. of Sligo, may be made head-quarters for the
examination of the S.W. district; or the tourist may apply at
Tobercorry, a few miles distant. 5 m. W. of it, on the river Moy, are
the very picturesque and ivied ruins of Bennada Friary, whose lofty
square tower, 70 feet high, forms a very striking object, starting
from the thick foliage with which it is surrounded, on a rising bank
amidst a range of meadows. Whilst in this vicinity, the tourist will
be gratified by a ramble to the ruins of Court Abbey close to a small
village of that name, and about 3 m. W. from Achonry. The way to it
is not very agreeable, being mostly through bogs: it is, however,
an object not easily missed, as it stands conspicuously in a small
field, where its lofty tower, fifty-three feet high, frowns over the
ruins below. The interior sombre and solemn; used as an open cemetery.
Proceeding a little further, the visitor arrives, through a lofty
Gothic arch, at a Chapel the windows of which were once ornamented
with paintings, now obliterated. Here are also several pedestals for
the statues of saints, but now untenanted; in the south wall are some
slight remains of a window once rich in tracery. Passing into the
western Chapel, observe a curious octagonal inverted cone, supposed to
have been the receptacle for the holy water; and on the northern side
of the chancel are melancholy memorials of mortality, the recesses
in the walls being entirely filled with human skulls: the whole
presenting a scene of desolation perfectly in unison with the wildness
of the surrounding country. Not far from the village of Tubbercorry
are some remains of an old Castle of the O'Hara. The country around is
flat and boggy, and there is nothing to repay the labour of a visit.
BALLINAFADD, 15 m. S.E. of Sligo, is a small village, but will afford
shelter to the tourist who wishes to examine its vicinity. See the
ruins of ancient Castle, picturesque and pleasing, the feudal den
of the clan MacDonough, with thick walls, circular tower, and most
extensive prospects over the Curlew mountains, along Lough Arrow; and
along a wild but romantic valley to the S. Ballymote, 5 m. N.W., has a
Castle which presents a good specimen of ancient military architecture
at the commencement of the 14th century, when erected by Richard de
Burgo, the red Earl of Ulster, a man of high power and possessions.
The ruins are still very extensive, and seem almost to bid defiance to
time. Six round towers, one of which is 53 feet in height, flanked the
walls that were 9 feet in thickness, with a gallery or covered way of
communication all round. At the end of the town are some remains of
the ancient Ch., with some finely pointed Gothic arches, and curious
east window. Franciscan Friary. Somewhere in this vicinity is Corren,
with curious caves called the Giant's House, with an approach cut in
the rock, steep and difficult. Lough Arrow, already noticed under
Roscommon, presents much romantic scenery. On its banks, in a wild
open district, stood a Convent of Dominican nuns (1427) in honour
of the Virgin. At present little remains except the Ch., called
Ballindown Abbey, in sufficient preservation to show its ancient form,
though unroofed. It consists principally of two Chapels united by a
belfry, with this curious architectural whim, that the east and west
windows only are Gothic, but all the others elliptical.
ENNISCROWEN, or ENISCRONE, about 28 m. W. of Sligo, may be visited
by those who venture to explore the wild recesses of the barony of
Tyreragh. Castle Connor, near to it, has curious caves, lined and
roofed with great stones, on a hill, as yet scarcely noticed by the
antiquary. Close to the sea stand the remains of the ancient Castle
of Roslee, sombre and solitary. Little more now exists than one
lofty tower, in the thickness of whose walls is a curious staircase
leading to the gloomy apartments within. The Castle was originally
of considerable extent, and near it runs a rivulet, traditionally
said to have once been fitted with a weir for the purpose of catching
salmon; the fish, by an ingenious contrivance, ringing a bell as soon
as caught, and thereby giving notice to the cook of their capture. At
Screen, 15 m. N.E., see Danish-Stone Rath on a hill.
SLIGO, 104 m. N.W. of Dublin, stands upon a river, by which the waters
of Lough Gilly are discharged into a large bay, and which admits
vessels of 200 tons up to its quay. See Court-House, Gaol, Barrack,
Infirmary, and Charter School; Custom House and quays; much trade;
good accommodations. Close to the town, and pleasantly seated on the
river Gilly, near its confluence with the sea, stand the ruins of
the ancient Abbey, of early foundation, but burnt down in the 15th
century, and immediately afterwards rebuilt in a very superior style
of sculpture and architecture. It has two large chapels divided by a
square belfry, the tower of which is entire except the battlements,
and resting on a lofty Gothic arch. The other arches of the Gothic
colonnades are lofty, and enriched with foliage and angels. The Ch.
is completely uncovered; three sides of the cloisters have an arched
roof in pretty good preservation: their arches are semicircular; but
a profusion of Gothic ornament exists in other parts of the edifice.
The front and sides of the altar are ornamented with Gothic arches,
foliage, and tracery; and there still remain pedestals for statues,
whose sanctity could not work miracles against Time. The tourist must
not neglect to notice the eastern window, which is very beautiful.
Around the nave is a stone gallery; and at a height of several
feet from the ground may still be seen the tomb of O'Connor, lord
of Sligo, his figure and that of his lady kneeling on each side of
an altar. Taking a ramble about 4 m. S. from the town, the tourist
will see, at the foot of a small hill, the neat village and Abbey
of Ballysadere, erected about the 12th century for Augustine monks.
At present nothing can be traced but the arches of the belfry and a
small part of the tower, built of black stone: not far distant are
the picturesque remains of an ancient Chapel, with windows of cut
stone, and some curious carved heads on the doorway. Visit Nymphsfield
near Ballysadere, where there is a waterfall worth sketching. The
Giant's Grave, or Lugne Clogh consists of several stones resembling
Stonehenge. Innismurry is an island of the north coast, with curious
subterraneous cells: also interesting to the sportsman. Lough Gilly
abounding with romantic scenery; about 5 m. long, and 2 broad. Its
greatest charm is Hazelwood, the beautiful seat of Mr. Wynn, at the
end of a wooded peninsula which runs out into the water, and is seen
to most advantage from the lake. On the opposite side of the lake,
contrasting finely with the lawns and artificial arrangements of
Hazelwood, is seen a range of rude mountains, partially planted and
cultivated; beyond which is another range in fine retiring distance.
In the island of Innismore are ruins of an old Ch. of the Culdees,
covered with ivy, and marked by numerous superstitions. Knocknaree
is a mountain of considerable altitude and extensive base, in a
wide field of desolation. Malachwee hill has a curiously fantastic
appearance, with extensive prospect. See Mercury, the modern
castellated seat of Mr. Cooper, built of limestone.
MINERALS.
Silver, copper, lead, and iron have been found in various places; and
some symptoms of coal in the mountains near Sligo.
BOTANY.
_Dryas octopetala_, Mountain Avens:--on the mountains.
_Saxifraga umbrosa_, London Pride:--in the hilly districts.
TIPPERARY
Is a very extensive inland county; but connected with the sea by means
of the Shannon, which runs for a few miles along its N.W. boundary.
It presents all the varieties of rude, uncultivated, mountainous
districts, and of fertile plains, on a substratum of limestone,
equalling any part of the island in richness and in verdure. There is
also some beautiful and romantic scenery on the banks of the Suir,
which becomes a magnificent river before it leaves the confines of the
county. Bounded N. by King's and Queen's County; E. by Kilkenny; S. by
Waterford and Cork; W. by Limerick, Clare, and Galway.
CARRICK ON SUIR, 10 m. S.E. of Clonmel, is on the verge of the county,
and partly in Waterford, surrounded by magnificent mountain scenery,
intermingled with elegant cultivation. See remains of ancient walls;
fine old Castle of the Ormond family; Ch. monument of Earl of Tyrone:
examine woollen manufactures; visit Shliebnemon, one of the highest
mountains in Ireland.
CASHEL, 10 m. N.W. of Clonmel, affords much research for the
antiquary, as it seems to have been dedicated, from the earliest
times, both to religious and civil purposes: for here was a pagan
temple, and here the monarchs of Munster were crowned, seated on a
lofty stone. See modern Cathedral of handsome Grecian architecture;
Episcopal Palace; Market House; Sessions House; Charter School.
Examine ruins of old Cathedral seated on the rock of Cashel,
particularly Cormac's Chapel, of which the inside length, says
Ledwich, is 47 feet; the breadth 18; the height of the roof 54. This
Chapel has a chancel and nave; and on square pillars, adorned with
a lozenge net work, rest round columns as on their pedestals, from
which spring the arches. These columns are short and thick, and have
bases, tores, capitals, and entablatures, rudely executed: the portal
is semicircular, with nail-headed and chevron mouldings; the windows
are half circles also. Notice a crypt 53 feet long, and eighteen
broad within divided into a nave and choir, the crypt itself being
arched and supported by short and massy columns. A figure of an archer
mounted on some ideal quadruped is placed over one of the doors, and
the canonized bones of Cormac are supposed to lie under the altar. In
the body of the cathedral, and on the S. side of the choir, is a lofty
monument of the 16th century, of Milar Magrath, Archbishop of Cashel,
with an epitaph written by himself. The approach to the cathedral
is very fine. See lofty gate and western tower; chapel dedicated to
the Apostles, and curious subterranean passage supposed to lead to
Hore Abbey; steeple rising from four fine arches; ornaments round the
windows. In the town, inquire for the remains of Franciscan Abbey, at
the back of Friar-street; also of a Dominican Friary. Near the rock,
on a flat amidst some rich scenery, are the ruins of Hore Abbey, of
early erection. Its remains are still very fine; but when sketched
by Grose, they were indeed noble, with a lofty tower 20 feet square,
resting on two fine arches, 30 feet in height. The nave was 60 feet
in length, with gothic arcades and lateral aisles; and there may
still be traced a small low arched room, evidently a confessional,
as it contains niches in the walls with holes for the penitents to
speak through. About 3 m. from this city, see the ruins of Athassel
Abbey, of the order of St. Augustine, founded by William Fitz Adhelm
in 1200: one of the noblest religious structures erected by the early
English invaders. These ruins are still very extensive, and present
a good idea of Monkish times and manners: the choir, in particular,
seems to have been of great magnitude and splendour, 44 feet by 26;
and the nave nearly of the same dimensions; the whole having been 117
feet in length. See a curious small chapel in the S.W. corner; also
the cloisters which were extensive; the steeple, square and lofty;
and in short, the whole mass of arches, walls, windows, monuments,
&c. A good engraving of it is given in Ledwich's Antiquities. Emly,
about 14 m. W., on the borders of a lake, with ruins of Ch., a
large stone cross, and holy well. In this district the picturesque
tourist may visit the Galtees, a range of mountains with sides nearly
perpendicular, and highly romantic. Golden, a small village, forms
a station for several curiosities, with ruins of a Castle, on the
river Suir. Sir R. C. Hoare says, "that a round tower, with the river,
bridge, &c., form a good subject for the pencil." The accommodations
are good, at the Castle Inn. Visit Thomastown, the demesne of Lord
Landaff; an ancient mansion; also Suir Castle, residence of Lord
Massy. At Shrone Hill, a large unfinished house of Lord Milton's.
Tipperary contains merely one long street, but gives name to the
county.
CLONMELL, 82 m. S.W. of Dublin, is the county town, and stands
pleasantly on the river Suir, with good trade and a woollen
manufacture. Accommodations good. See Market-house; Court-house;
gothic Ch.; modernized Barrack, and Bridge of 20 arches. Few remnants
of antiquity, having suffered much from Cromwell. Memorable as the
birth-place of the facetious Sterne. Examine Medicinal Well for
scorbutic diseases. Ardfinnan is an ancient village 7 m. S.W. from
Clonmell, existing previous to the first English invasion, and seated
on the river Suir, over which there is a long bridge of 14 arches.
The town itself stands low, but close to it is a high rock, bold and
picturesque, overlooking the river, selected by King John as a fit
situation for an extensive castle, which suffered much from the cannon
of the Parliament army in the Civil Wars, yet still presents a very
picturesque specimen of military antiquity. It is square, with two
lofty towers overlooking the town, and a high ascent to it on all
sides, and at a distance seems perfect, as the greatest part of the
walls and the principal gate are yet standing; but the inside is a
total ruin, no roof remaining except over one apartment. Cahir, 5 m.
N.W. from Clonmell, stands upon both sides of the Suir, surrounded
by the extensive domain of Lord Cahir, which Mr. Wakefield describes
as bearing evident marks of the good effects that may be produced
by the patriotic exertions of an ardent mind directed to laudable
pursuits, and anxious for improvements, contributing particularly by
extensive plantations to increase the beauty of the county, which,
in this vicinity, naturally abounds with wild and romantic scenery.
See the remains of the old Castle, also the ruins of a very large
building at Somerstown, near to Cahir. The ride from Cahir to Clogheen
is described by Mr. Wakefield as being an object of research to the
inquisitive tourist. He says "that proceeding through a valley which
extends from the Galtees, the traveller finds himself between that
range on the N., and the Knockmeledown mountains on the S., wild
also in the extreme, the whole district being divided into fields,
either by grassy dykes or rough stone walls." The latter mountains
are exceedingly barren. They are covered solely with heath, which
in the spring season is extremely black; and as their great height,
at the time when Mr. Wakefield visited this dreary vale, completely
intercepted the rays of the sun which lay hid behind them, every
thing assumed a dusky appearance, which threw a gloom over the whole
visible face of nature. Clogheen is situated upon a stream close to
the bottom of these mountains, and the road to it forms a gradual
descent of nearly two miles, with a lofty black mountain in front.
It is a considerable thoroughfare, and has good accommodations for
the tourist either of picturesque or mineralogical research. Ascend a
long and lofty mountain about 2-1/2 m. to Baylough in a hollow, with a
fine echo either from a bugle-horn or even a musquet. The view towards
Clonmell very beautiful. At Kilshielan, see ancient tumulus, called a
Fairy hillock. Knocklofty, residence of Lord Donoughmore; good house
and grounds.
FETHARD, 7 m. N.E. of Clonmell, is in a decayed state, but affords
accommodation for the eastern district. See remains of ancient walls;
and some ruins of monastery. At Kilcooly is a very fine Ch., in
excellent preservation, once belonging to a Cistertian Abbey. It is
still roofed and entire, with gothic windows of rich tracery, and
a handsome square tower, whose light battlements are luxuriantly
enveloped in ivy. At Killenaule, see ruins of several old Castles, in
the midst of rich scenery.
NENAGH, 30 m. N.W. of Clonmell, is a good station for the northern
district. The approach is thus described by Sir R. C. Hoare, who
says, "that leaving Birr, he entered the county of Tipperary, passing
through a village with mills, and a small Castle; another ruined
fort on the left; corn lands; a Castle in ruins on the right; a line
of road as straight as if it had been planned by a Roman engineer;
an extensive plain, with distant hills; bog; a slight ascent; a
large bog on the right; a Ch. rebuilt, with the ruins of the more
ancient one annexed. Corn pastures, and bog; road rough in parts; a
gentleman's seat on the right; more wood; another seat on the right;
the country improves; plain, bounded by some high hills." After this
_flying_ picture, the tourist may alight at the New Inn, where he
will find good accommodations. The town itself is large and regularly
built, with the remains of a Castle, having a circular tower of strong
masonry. The antiquary may trace the ruins of an Augustine Friary.
In 1370, the English forces were defeated near this town, a small
party having assisted Turloch O'Brian, by Brian, nephew of Turloch,
who thence assumed his surname. See ruins of Knockalton Castle, 2 m.
also Lough Derg, formed by the river Shannon, with fine scenery and
antiquities, further noticed in Clare and Galway. Silver mines, so
called from some virgin silver having been discovered in the lead
ore: see Dunalty Castle. Toomavara, a small village, has ruins of a
Preceptory of Knights Templars; also Blane and Knockane Castles.
NINEMILE HOUSE, that distance N.E. of Clonmell, is merely a travelling
stage, but forms a good station for much wild mountain scenery in the
Sleivh na Manna range. Near it the ruins of an old Castle, with the
handsome residence and well planted grounds at Kilcash.
ROSCREA, 30 m. N. of Clonmell, stands on the very verge of the
county, and is a thriving and wealthy town, on the post road from
Dublin to Limerick, standing in a fertile and populous district. At
the entrance of the town the tourist will notice the very curious
architectural decorations of the Ch., with its Saxon doors and niches,
its sepulchral crosses; and lofty round tower, 80 feet in height and
15 feet in diameter, possessing also the singularity of a window with
a pointed arch at the height of 30 feet from the ground. The Castle
(1213) is now a barrack. Monaincha, about 3 m. from Roscrea, and
about 1 m. S. from the road leading to Burros in Ossory, cannot fail
to be highly interesting to the antiquary as the birth-place of the
long celebrated monastic order of the Culdees, a Christian but not
Roman Catholic sect, that commenced in the 6th century, according to
Ledwich, in this remote corner of the world, in a little island in
the midst of a bog, sometimes called Innisnabeo, or the "Island of
the living." Columba was their founder, as may be seen at large in
_Ledwich's Antiquities of Ireland_, p. 56; and it is a curious fact
at the present moment, that so adverse were the Culdees to the tenets
and practice of the Church of Rome, as to draw down the wrath of the
Vatican, and the festival of St. Columba was forbidden in the other
parts of Ireland. The bog in which these ruins are now to be seen
was formerly a lake: for Giraldus Cambrensis describes it as such in
1185, with two islands, one containing a Ch. and the other a Chapel;
a fact that must render a visit interesting to the geologist. The
geologist who directs his research to the bog of Allen will naturally
visit this bog of Monela, which is but a continuation of it; and here
he will not fail to notice the extraordinary fact, that what was the
lesser is now become the greater isle. The easternmost of the two is
the largest, and contains about 2 acres; in it stands the Culdean
Abbey, of which considerable vestiges still remain. The tourist will
particularly observe the arch of the choir, which is semicircular or
Saxon, and on which sculpture seems to have exhausted her treasures:
a nebule moulding adorns the outward semicircle of the portal, a
double nebule with beads the second, a chevron the third, interspersed
with the triangular frette, roses and other ornaments. It is also
decorated with chalices, artfully made at every section of the stone,
so as to conceal the joints. Here the ruins afford some research for
the mineralogist, as part of the stones used are of a whitish grit,
brought from the neighbouring hills of Ballaghmore, but being porous
they have suffered much from the weather; whilst the columns of the
choir are of a harder texture, close-grained, reddish in colour, and
once highly polished. These have evidently been quarried on the S.W.
side of the bog, and are a species of schistus, splitting into laminæ
of six feet long, with which most of the abbey is cased without.
Notwithstanding this, some ashen keys having in past ages been dropped
on the walls and insinuated into the interstices, they have now become
large trees, and add much to the solemnity and singularity of the
place: unfortunately, the action of the roots on the walls threatens a
speedy ruin to great part of this venerable edifice.
THURLES, 18 m. N. of Clonmell, is not only a place of considerable
inland trade, but has long been a favourite residence of the Catholic
primates of Munster, who carefully preserve various relics of St.
Cormac. Here are the ruins of an ancient Castle, built upon a very
extensive plan by the first Earl of Ormond in the 14th century. It
surrounds a large area, and is flanked by several towers both round
and square, with a lofty semicircular gateway. Like many other castles
in this part of the country, it is a monument of the ravages of the
Parliamentary forces during the civil wars. See ruins of St. Mary's
Ch., built in 15th century, now falling rapidly into dilapidation;
neat modern Ch.; good Market-house; Barrack, formerly a mansion of
the Llandaff family; tower and some portion of an ancient Ch. of a
Carmelite monastery. About 2 m. S.W. on the banks of the Suir are the
very extensive remains of the Cistertian Abbey of the Holy Cross,
founded before the 12th century by Donogh king of Limerick, and long
esteemed as a spot of the greatest sanctity; and even in latter days
considered as a very fine specimen of sacerdotal architecture. The
Steeple, or Square Tower, is lofty, and attracts the eye at first
approach: it is supported by a lofty Gothic arch, and its workmanship
is highly finished. The body of the Ch. consists of a nave and aisles,
not very profuse in decoration; but the chapels have been highly
ornamented. The effect on entering the nave is very impressive, being
a noble expanse of 58 feet by 49, with an arcade of 4 arches on each
side opening into the lateral aisles. Passing through the choir, and
turning to the S., the visitor discovers two small chapels, each about
10 feet square, and between which is a double range of Gothic arches,
supported by twisted pillars, a spot supposed to be so holy that
the monks were always waked there previous to interment. Two other
chapels are seen on the north side; and in the eastern chapel, already
noticed, there is a very curious Gothic tomb, without inscription, but
said by tradition to be the sepulchre of a "good woman," who brought
many holy relics to the abbey. Longford Pass, a small village on the
road into Kilkenny, has ruins of several old Castles in its vicinity;
also Newark Park. At Temple More, a neat and well built village, see
handsome Ch. and spire; elegant mansion of the Carden family, and a
romantic seat and demesne belonging to the Marquis of Lansdown; with
numerous vestiges of ancient Castles.
MINERALS.
Lead ore, with silver, and silver mines; also pipe-clay and
fuller's-earth. Coal mines numerous.
BOTANY.
_Ammi vulgaris_, (Linn.) Bishop's Weed:--on Killough Hill, near
Cashell, plentifully.
_Hypericum Androsæmum_, Tutsan, or Park-leaves:--in woods.
_Leonurus Cardiaca_, Motherwort:--in hedges and among rubbish.
_Ophioglossum vulgatum_, Adder's Tongue:--in moist meadows.
_Ophrys bifolia_, Common Twayblade:--in woods.
TYRONE
Is completely an inland county, presenting nothing very grand or
majestic; but the lands being divided into small parcels, an increased
population gives much cheerfulness to its general aspect. The northern
part towards Strabane is mountainous, other parts are rugged and
uneven, but none very high. Bounded by Derry on the N.; E. by Armagh
and Lough Neagh; S. by Fermanagh and Monaghan; W. by Donnegal.
AUGHNACLOY, 20 m. S.E. of Omagh, is a neat village, on the banks of
the Blackwater, where the sportsman will find good trout-fishing. Near
it are the ruins of Lismore Fort. It may be made the head-quarters for
visiting the S.E. district.
CLOGHER, 20 m. S.E. of Omagh, is a poor village, yet an episcopal
see of very high antiquity, once Druidical. See Bishop's Palace and
handsome demesne; Cathedral, a plain building serving as the parish
Ch. Augher near to it is a small village, once a borough.
DUNGANNON, about 30 m. E. of Omagh, a very handsome town with a
pleasing vicinity. See Ch.; also remnants of Castle and Franciscan
Monastery. Farm Hill, the magnificent mansion of Lord Northland,
has a fine prospect of the town, with Lough Neagh in the distance.
Arboe, 7 m. N., has remains of Ch. and noble Monastery founded by St.
Colman, but destroyed by fire; with a curious cross 15 feet high.
Caledon, a large village 8 m. S., has several handsome residences in
its vicinity. Aghinnes, a fine seat of Lord Belmore; and Caledon,
a pleasing mansion of Lord Caledon. Coal Island has extensive coal
mines, with indications of iron ore. Near Cookstown, see Killyman,
a very pleasant mansion and demesne. Stewart's Town, 6 m. N. of
Dungannon, has some agreeable scenery. See Ardcreagh Ch. on a hill 3
m. distant; also Stewart Hall, 2 m. distant, a superb edifice with
extensive park and gardens, the seat of Lord Castle Stewart.
NEWTON STEWART, 10 m. N.W. of Omagh, stands amidst pleasing river
scenery on the Foyle. The picturesque tourist may amuse himself with
much mountain landscape in its vicinity. See ruins of ancient Castle.
The Marquis of Abercorn's seat at Baron's Court is supposed to be the
handsomest model of a nobleman's residence in the kingdom. See the
beautiful grounds and well wooded demesne, with a fine lake, from
whence the ruins of ancient Castle, and the Ch. have a pretty effect.
OMAGH, 87 m. N. of Dublin, is the shire town. See ruins of ancient
Castle, and some remains of an Abbey and Franciscan friary; with ruins
of a curious Ch. 4 m. dist. Hall, vol. ii. p. 118, speaks of it as a
very thriving place, on account of the linen and other manufactures
carried on there.
STRABANE, 20 m. N.W. of Omagh, stands very pleasantly on the river
Foyle, with some very fine prospects. A thriving place; forming a
good station for much of the scenery of Tyrone, Donnegal, and Derry,
with good accommodations; but Hall, vol. ii. p. 120, complains much
of extravagant charges. See the remains of the once elegant ruins of
Corock Abbey for Franciscan friars; also the seat of Lord Montjoy.
MINERALS.
Coals only have as yet been discovered; but it is supposed that iron
exists in many places, as there are numerous chalybeates.
BOTANY.
_Agrostis canina_, Brown Bent Grass:--in very wet meadows in northern
parts.
_Aira cæspitosa_, Turfy Bent Grass:--in the mountainous district near
Strabane.
_Astragalus glycyphyllos_, Liquorice Vetch:--in upland pastures.
_Achillea Millefolium_, Yarrow:--on river sides.
_Crepis biennis_, Rough Hawk's-beard:--in meadows.
_Erica cinerea_, Fine Heath:--on moorlands.
_Eriophoron polystachion_, Cotton Grass:--in wet meadows.
WATERFORD
Scarcely equals half the extent of some of the larger counties. It is
bounded on the N. by the Suir, on the W. by the Blackwater, and on the
E. and S. by the ocean. Mr. Wakefield observes, "that two such noble
estuaries as the Suir and Blackwater are seldom seen, abounding with
magnificent and romantic scenery, combining with lofty mountainous
tracts."
DUNGARVON, 21 m. S.W. of Waterford, is one of the greatest
fishing-towns in Ireland, being situated near the Nymph Bank; but
Mr. Curwen complains heavily of the bad accommodations which he met
with: the town small; the streets narrow: yet persons returning from
the lakes will do well to take this place in their route. Crossing
the Ferry at Youghall, and passing through an uncultivated tract of
mountain scenery, destitute of inhabitants, but highly susceptible of
improvement, the tourist approaches this town, built on the beach,
and appearing, from the descent of the mountain, as if it stood in
the sea. Dungarvon itself will not detain him long. See Barrack on
site of an ancient Castle; also ruins of Augustine Abbey of Gothic
architecture; lofty steeple springing from a curious vault; ancient
monument (1400). In the summer much company will be met with as a
bathing-place. If the tourist is hurried, and without time to examine
the whole county, he may take an interesting ride across it towards
Clonmell. Leave Dungarvon, cross a valley of excellent land about 4
m. wide; turn round a projecting chain of mountains, and then see
the small village of Kilmacthomas, from which village the first few
miles exhibit the same face of country, till within a short distance
of the banks of the Suir, where the eye is once more gratified with
the appearance of trees. On the right, for nearly the whole of the
way, there are magnificent views of the ocean, but not a gentleman's
seat is to be seen in the whole distance between Youghall and Lord
Waterford's seat at Curraghmore. Ardmore, 8 m. S.W. of Dungarvon,
stands near the sea; a poor village, once episcopal. Examine ruins
of two Ch. with curious sculpture; round tower, 100 feet high, 15 in
diameter; St. Declan's dormitory in cemetery; St. Declan's stone,
that swam from Rome to bring home his belt and vestments: Danish
Raths. Dromana, the splendid mansion and demesne of Lord Grandison
Duck's-pool, 1 m., ruins of Abbey. Kilmacthomas, 9 m. N.E., pleasing
village, with good river scenery and fishing, and some remains of
Castle. Whitchurch, 5 m. W., has curious cave called Con-a-glour, or
the Pigeon-hole, 150 feet long, with subterraneous river, fantastical
crystallizations, &c., from whence (or Lismore) the tourist may visit
Oonamort.
LISMORE, 30 m. from Waterford, and now a scene of desolation, formerly
an university, bishop's see, and a city! Here is a handsome stone
bridge of twelve arches, erected across the river by the munificence
of the Devonshire family, to whom the castle and estate belong; the
castle now undergoing a complete repair. On the approach towards the
town of Lismore the road falls into a beautiful glen which proceeds
in a winding direction; whilst the sides of the mountains by which
it is formed, are clothed with a profusion of oak and ash. A stream
of considerable size, which discharges itself into the Blackwater
at the town, runs through the glen, and adds considerably to its
beauties. This fine scenery lasts for about two miles. Near the
town are the remains of the immense Castle once the residence of
the brave but unfortunate Sir Walter Raleigh. It is an interesting
object, and appears once to have been a place of some strength, boldly
situated on the verge of a rocky hill, rising almost perpendicularly
to a considerable height over the river Blackwater, upon which the
principal window of the great room of the Castle looks down, and from
whence, it is said, James II. started back with horror. This Castle is
of very high antiquity, having been built by King John upon the ruins
of the Abbey of St. Carthagh. Dr. Smith, speaking of the view from the
great window of the Castle, observes, that "opposite to it there opens
a wide glen wooded on both sides, and pleasantly watered by a small
river which, at the distance of a mile, winds off to the west side of
the great mountain of Knock-mill-down, 4 m. N. from it, and which
exactly facing this window appears like a vast cone or sugar-loaf. To
the west is a full prospect of the salmon-fishery, where the weirs are
of a considerable length, traversing the river,--the working and the
noise of the water through them (that here runs pretty rapid) forms a
kind of artificial cataract, and resembles the sound of such, which,
though not high, is of a considerable extent, and adds a lulling
softness to the beauty of the scene. Above the weirs, the sides of the
river are beautifully variegated with woods, lawns, and cornfields."
See the old Cathedral fitted up as a modern Ch. See view from the
noble bridge, particularly pointed out by Mr. Curwen, exhibiting the
majestic rock on which the Castle stands, the valley on the S. side
of the river, which, though confined, is extremely luxuriant, and the
hills rising boldly on the northern bank towards Cappoquin. Sir R. C.
Hoare observes, that though the scenery on the Blackwater cannot be
compared with that on the Wye, the Dart, or the Tamar, in England,
yet he is inclined to think it cannot, for the long continuance of 20
m., be surpassed or even rivalled by any other stream in Ireland. It
affords some good subjects, he adds, for the portfolio; of which the
most striking and best adapted to the pencil are those at Balinatry,
Strancally, and Dromana; but all must yield to Lismore. The tourist
will find a good inn and a good salmon fishery. Aglish, 4 m. S.E., is
near Dromana, already noticed under Dungarvon. See ruins of ancient
Castle; also ruins of venerable Abbey, 1 m. Cappoquin, 2 m. across
the Blackwater, has a wooden bridge and ruins of ancient Castle,
with a most enchanting and extensive prospect. Curwen describes it
as a small neat town, with several handsome seats ornamented with
timber and very picturesque scenery in its vicinity. Sir R. C. Hoare
recommends to notice Dromana House, rising perpendicularly from a rock
completely covered with trees; the character of that bend of the river
being richness, with cultivated lands decked with trees, and distant
mountains: also Turin, a modern house on an old Castle, seat of Mr.
Kane, a finely wooded dingle in front backed with lofty mountains;
ruined Ch. on the left; flat islands planted with willows; quarries
of limestone, one fine mass of which bounds the river on the left.
Modeligo, 7 m. E., has ancient Castles of the Magraths. Oon a mort
is a small cave, similar to that of Con-a-glour. Strancally is 6 m.
S. towards the mouth of the river, with ancient Castle and curious
cave, respecting which there are some horrid legends: and near it the
handsome seat of Headborough, with venerable ruins of Molana Abbey.
Tallagh, 6 m. S.W., is a poor decayed village, with Lessfinny Castle
near to it.
WATERFORD, 75 m. S. of Dublin, is episcopal and collegiate.--From
Carrick-on-Suir to this place the road passes through a district which
exhibits a great variety of picturesque views along the banks of
that river. From the nature of the situation, the city itself is not
seen until the traveller is within a short distance of it, standing
apparently in the bottom of a basin, with the Suir, about a mile
broad and crowded with shipping, flowing close to its side. See the
noble quay, about 1 m. in length, with a wooden bridge which has a
drawbridge in the centre, adding much to the beauty and convenience
of the city. Elegant modern Cathedral. Handsome episcopal Palace. 3
Parish Ch. 4 Catholic Chapels. Court-House, erected on Black-friars
Monastery. Tholsel. Gaol. Custom-House. Exchange. Coffee-Rooms.
Assembly Rooms, and Theatre. Remains of Franciscan Friary. The
earliest remnant of antiquity to be seen here, is a circular tower
situated in the eastern angle of the city walls, said to be the work
of a Danish chieftain in 1003, and (after him) called Reginald's
Tower. The bridge is constructed of American oak. It is 832 feet
long, 42 broad, has two sets of piers, each of seven pieces, besides
cut-waters. The longest pile driven was 70 feet; the depth at low
water is 37 feet, and the rise of the highest tides is 17 feet.
Here is an existing Catholic Monastery. See the Woollen and Glass
Manufactories; also Clonegan Tower, 72 feet high, erected by the late
Marquis of Waterford to the memory of his son. Carrickbeg, 12 m. W.,
opposite to Carrick-on-Suir, has ruins of Franciscan Friary, with a
leaning steeple. Whilst in this vicinity the tourist will be gratified
by a ride over the large demesne of Curraghmore, which in many parts
commands the most extensive prospects of the surrounding country. Mr.
Wakefield notices that from the tower the eye can trace the Suir the
whole way to Waterford, while the ocean, stretched out along the coast
on the S., forms in the remote part of the picture a very fine object.
The house is seen to most advantage in front, as it is backed by wood
which exhibits very grand scenery. There are some good paintings. The
demesne is stated by Mr. W. to contain 2800 acres, of which nearly
one half is covered with wood. The whole of this extended property
is surrounded by walls; and it excels in mountain scenery and woody
wildness. Kilmanahan Castle, a mansion recently erected on the site of
an ancient Castle, and preserving the old style of architecture, which
gives it a very venerable appearance, rising from the summit of a rock
at a bending of the Suir, which here divides the two counties. This
position gives it the advantage of a very extensive prospect; and Mr.
Wakefield declares that grandeur, united with elegance, renders this
one of the completest residences that he had ever seen. Here too the
Suir runs with great rapidity, and is seen rolling his waters beneath
well wooded banks, with the Galtees mountains in the distance. Visit
Kilmeaden Castle, Ch. and Spa. Passage is the place of embarkation
for the Milford Haven packets, with ruins of Ch. and most extensive
prospect from Faithleag-hill. Good inns. Tramore, 6 m. S., is an
excellent bathing-place; delightful village, with neat Assembly Room
and all the usual accommodations.
MINERALS.
Granite is the basis; and here has been found a stratum of clay equal
to that of Stourbridge for glass-house pots.
BOTANY.
_Allium carinatum_, Purple-flowered Mountain Garlic:--on pasture lands.
_Althæa officinalis_, Marsh Mallow:--in the isles of Icane.
_Asplenium Adiantum nigrum_, Common Black Maiden Hair:--on mountains.
_Carex dioica_, Small Carex:--in bogs.
_Carum Carui_, Caraway:--in meadows and pastures:--near Woodhouse in
the parish of Stradbally.
_Canvallaria majalis_, Lily Convally or May Lily:--in a wood near the
river Collygan.
_Crithmum maritimum_, Samphire:--on sea cliffs.
_Cucubalus otites_, Spanish Catchfly:--in a grove near Lismore, near
the Blackwater river.
_Daphne Laureola_, Spurge Laurel:--in a wood near Mogehy in the parish
of Whitchurch.
_Drosera longifolia_, Long-leaved Sundew:--on a bog near Ballycaroge.
_Eryngium campestre_, Common Eryngo:--in the sand near Youghal harbour.
_Gladiolus communis_, (Linn.) Sword Grass or Corn Flag:--at the upper
end of the Conegary, at Dungarvon.
_Imperatoria Ostruthium_, Masterwort:--on Slatwood Hill near Lismore,
and Tallow.
_Menyanthes trifoliata_, Buckbean:--on bogs.
_Osmunda regalis_, Osmund Royal, or Flowering Fern:--near Ballycaroge.
_Peucedanum officinale_, Hog's Fennel, or Sea Sulphurwort:--in the
barony of Gualtier.
_Polemonium cæruleum_, Greek Valerian, or Jacob's Ladder:--on a bank of
the Blackwater between Cappoquin and Lismore.
_Polygonum Bistorta_, Greater Bistort or Snakeweed:--on Slatwood-hill
near Lismore, and Tallow.
_Solidago Virga aurea_, A variety of common Golden Rod:--on
Cushean-hill near Dungarvon.
_Spiræa filipendula_, Dropwort:--on Cumeragh mountains.
WESTMEATH
Is an inland county, not very large, but extremely rich in verdure,
mostly flat, though in some places pleasingly intersected with hills,
many of which are finely wooded. In short, if not so picturesque as
many other districts, yet the tourist will not be in want of subjects
for his portfolio, as it contains many lakes pleasingly fringed with
rich plains and wooded scenery. Bounded N. by Cavan; E. by Eastmeath;
S. by King's County; W. by Roscommon and the Shannon; and N.W. by
Longford.
ATHLONE, 20 m. S.W. of Mullingar, stands pleasantly on the Shannon,
with fine scenery, particularly in Lough Ree. Formerly rich in
antiquities; but almost all destroyed by fire in the civil wars,
though now a town of considerable extent, and nearly in the centre of
Ireland. In the town there is a strong Castle defended by numerous
guns. See the pontoon or floating bridge, consisting of between 30 and
40 boats. Examine chalybeate spa. Many beautiful prospects between
this and Ballymenach. Inquire for ruins of Monastery at Drumrany, or
Drumrath; also at Kilkenny West, a small village. At Maghretibot, or
the Field of Theobald, see the field of battle where Sir Theobald de
Verdon fell in a contest with the Irish clans. Moatagrenoge, 8 m.
S.E., has an excellent inn as a station for those who wish to explore
this district, where there are the ruins of numerous old Castles,
a good modern Ch., a seat of Lord Sunderlin at Ballinabon, and the
venerable remains of Garey Castle.
BALLYMORE, midway between Athlone and Mullingar, has several objects
worth seeing. Village small. Ch. neat: ruins of Castle; also of
Killinney Castle near it. Lough Scudy has on its banks the ancient
Monastery of Plassey.
CASTLETOWN DELVIN, 12 m. N.E. of Mullingar, is a small village, but
a good station for several objects in its district. Near it is the
ancient baronial seat of the Earls of Westmeath; of which a part is
standing, consisting of an oblong square, with a lofty circular tower
at each corner. Near it is a large Danish rath. See, in its vicinity,
Baronston, the seat of Lord Sunderlin, a magnificent mansion,
including the wings, 300 feet in front, seated in the midst of a
considerable park, embosomed in excellent plantations, and surrounded
by a charming country, richly diversified with lakes, hills, and
mountain scenery. Clonmellon has an elegant Ch., with a steeple and
spire, of modern erection, but in imitation of the Gothic. See small
lakes to the N.W.
FORE, 9 m. N. of Mullingar, deserves a visit on account of Lough Lane
in its immediate vicinity. See the ruined Ch. of Clonarney, and that
of Archerstown, near a new-built seat of Mr. Battersby; also a seat
of Mr. Smith. Between Archerstown and Fore, Sir R. C. Hoare notices
a tumulus which appears to be sepulchral, surrounded by a fosse, but
not so exactly executed as those on Salisbury Plain. But Fore also
interests by its own ruins of parish churches, walls, and gateways,
with the shell of a spacious Monastery seated in the vale below,
dedicated to St. Fechin, first built in 630, and re-founded in 1209.
Sir R. G. Hoare states that this Monastery presents a large pile of
simple and unornamented masonry; the Chapel is still in a tolerable
state of preservation, and has three narrow pointed windows. Lough
Lane (already mentioned) a large piece of water with three wooded
islands upon it: it produces good trout and pike. The scenery is not
very romantic, for the banks are flat, but well cultivated. On its N.
side the waters penetrate under the rock, and reappear on the opposite
side of a hill near Fore, where they turn a mill. To the S. of the
lake, at a short distance, is a raised earthen work, commonly called
the "Fort of Turgesius," a chieftain of great military renown with
the old historians. He lived in the ninth century. If any reliance
can be placed upon topographical derivations, this vicinity must
once have had a very literary character; for _Foure_ signifies the
_town of books_, and _Lough Lane_, the _lake of learning_! This lake
gives birth to two rivulets, which discharge themselves into the sea
on opposite sides of the island. There are fine rides through the
well cultivated country in its vicinity, especially in the road to
Rochford, commanding in succession a view of a pleasing lake, Lough
Derrin; the "Crooked Wood," a hill so distinguished for its foliage,
though now denuded; and the beautiful wooded hill of Knockdrin. See
Castle Pollard, and Pakenham Hall; also Loughs Armagh and Drin.
KILBEGGAN, 10 m. S. of Mullingar, is a pleasant village, with good
river scenery in the Brosne. Some remains of Monastery. The artist may
here find amusement.
KINNEGAD, 10 m. E. of Mullingar, is a mere village, but has excellent
accommodations for the wanderer. On a hill near to it see ruins of
Ardmullan Castle; also Kilbride Pass, where are ruins of ancient Ch.
and two Castles.
MULLINGAR, 34 m. W. of Dublin, is the shire-town, with good
accommodations. Some ruins of a Dominican friary; also Baronston, the
seat of Lord Sunderlin, may be visited from this place. See beautiful
Ch. recently erected. The statistical tourist will do well to consult
_Curwen's Letters_, vol. ii. p. 249. Inquire for Horse-leap, 6 or 8
m. S., where are some remains of a very stately Castle built by Sir
Hugh de Lacy, one of the earliest English adventurers; and another
2 m. distant. To the N. inquire for the beautiful demesne and
elegant mansion of the Nugents, with remains of a venerable Castle
in vicinity. To see Lough Derryveragh in perfection, go to Wilson's
Hospital, delightfully situated between that and Lough O'Whel, or
Hoyle. From the Hospital notice charming view of Lord De Blaquiere's
residence and the romantic lake scenery, with a prospect over five
counties. The Hospital is supposed to be in the centre of Ireland;
its revenues are large. About 2 m. from Mullingar, from an eminence,
there is a most extensive prospect of Lough O'Whel and Lough Ennel,
looking towards Belvidere, which has the celebrity of being one of
the most enchanting spots in the island. Lough Ennel lies between
Mullingar and Kilbeggan, and is pretty extensive, its eastern banks
decorated by many gentlemen's seats. Near this is the late Lord
Belvidere's seat, at Belvidere, perched on the crown of a beautiful
little hill, half surrounded with others, variegated, and melting into
one another. Lough Ennel, many miles in length and two or three broad,
flows beneath the windows, spotted with islets, whilst a promontory of
rock fringed with trees starts into it; the whole bounded by distant
hills. "Greater and more magnificent scenes are often met with, but no
where a more beautiful or a more singular one." Multifarnam possesses
the magnificent ruins of an Abbey of Franciscans, highly interesting
for its connection with a most important period of Irish history. When
the monasteries were dissolved, this abbey was given to an alderman
of Dublin, one of whose successors permitted the friars to assemble
here again, with a splendour nearly equal to their former state,
having their organ and choristers in the Ch., with fine apartments
for themselves, barracks for soldiers, and a large establishment for
the reception of those who chose here to seek for shelter; and it is
asserted that within the walls of Multifarnam was first concerted
that rebellion which broke out in massacre in 1641. Enough remains
to gratify the lover of ancient architecture, in its pointed gables,
Gothic windows, and lofty tower 60 feet in height, and in its solemn
cloisters which may still be traced. New-Pass, not far distant, is
a pleasant mansion with good lake scenery. See Tyril's-Pass, a neat
village with ancient Castle ruins.
MINERALS.
Nothing remarkable.
BOTANY.
A virgin field; but promising great variety of aquatics.
WEXFORD
Presents many interesting considerations to the English tourist,
arising from its being the first active scene of invasion by the
Anglo-Norman adventurers in the reign of Henry the Second. It is,
however, a district very little noticed by casual travellers, who,
perhaps from its apparent deficiency in mountain scenery, rashly pass
it over _en route_, reserving all their admiration and praise for
the more classical beauties of Killarney. Yet Wexford well merits
investigation, not only for the magnificent and romantic views at every
turn of the Slaney, one of the most beautiful rivers of the island,
which divides it nearly in equal parts, but also for the immense number
of Gothic castellated ruins which yet adorn its green eminences, the
relics of feudal barbarism and of intestine hostility. Add to this,
much of it is in a high state of cultivation; especially the baronies
of Bargie and Forth, which yet are completely denuded of all kinds of
timber. Bounded N. by Wicklow; E. by Irish Channel; S. by Atlantic
Ocean; W. by Waterford, Kilkenny, and Carlow.
BANNOW, 11 m. S.W. of Wexford, may be visited along with Feathard and
Clonmines. Here Strongbow landed, temp. Hen. II. Those fond of aquatic
sports may visit the Saltees.
CLONMINES, 10 m. S.W. of Wexford.--In his excursions on the banks of
the romantic Barrow, the tourist will not omit to visit the ruins of
the once very extensive Abbey, with its light, lofty pinnacled tower,
ivied walls, and elegantly ramified western window, formed of red
grit, but completely whitened by the moss which enwraps it. Some fine
specimens of ornamental sculpture are to be found in the architecture
of the western door and in the arches of the cloisters, also on a
monument within the Ch.
CLONEGALL, 21 m. N. of Wexford, is a small village: but here the
tourist may commence his examination of the river Slaney. Visit
Newtonbarry, the seat of Col. Barry, deriving great animation
from the picturesque effect of river scenery combined with modern
improvement, and the majestic range of Mount Leinster.
ENNISCORTHY, 8 m. N.W. of Wexford, stands agreeably on the Slaney.
Ancient Castle fitted up as military depôt. Handsome bridge, six
arches. Close to it is Vinegar Hill! A few miles to the E. is
Courtown, remarkable for its evergreens, which grow to an immense size
with a marine aspect. Near this also are the pleasing seats of Kyle
and Bellevue, places of extraordinary beauty, and affirmed by Mr.
Wakefield to be inferior to none in the British empire, abounding in
magnificent scenery, richly planted, undulating and varied in their
surfaces, and animated by the Slaney flowing between them, which often
assumes all the grandeur of an expansive lake.
FETHARD, 15 m. S.W. of Wexford.--Ancient Castle, once in ruins, lately
altered and modernized. Principal tower is an elegant specimen of
the ancient military architecture, with its crown and battlements
supported by brackets or consoles, and fantastic embrasures from
whence the enemy could be annoyed in the old system of defence. Visit
Dunbrody Abbey, on the Barrow; ruins magnificent; fine sculpture in W.
window. Several ruins of Castles and Danish raths. Duncannon Fort is
a good specimen of modern fortification, though of early foundation,
having been erected for the defence of the river against the
threatened attacks of the Spanish Armada, in the reign of Elizabeth.
It stands on the flat surface of a lofty rock which overlooks the bay
forming the entrance of the river. See the Hook Tower. At a distance
of about 3 m. from the fort stands one of the most noble religious
ruins in the island, Tintern Abbey, in consequence of its first
monks being brought from that abbey in Monmouthshire by the founder,
William earl of Pembroke, whose piety was prompted to a vow during a
threatened shipwreck.
FERNS, 13 m. N. of Wexford.--On an eminence in the town see the ruins
of the ancient Castle, one of whose fine circular towers is almost
entire, containing amongst other apartments a beautiful chapel, the
groining of which springs from consoles in the wall, but the flooring
is gone. Over it is an arched room with embrasures or loop-holes. See
ruins of Abbey; elegant Episcopal Palace; modernized Cathedral, with
ancient tomb of St. Meoloch. Camolin is the seat of Earl Mountnorris.
GOREY, 21 m. N.E. of Wexford, exhibits the effects of rebellion in
the destruction of several elegant seats in its vicinity. Here were
horrible scenes of massacre.
ROSS, or NEW ROSS, 15 m. W. of Wexford, stands amidst fine scenery on
the Barrow, opposite to the junction of the Nore. Several ruins of
religious houses, and an existing monastery. Elegant wooden bridge.
Fine view from the hill. In the Ch. of St. Saviour, see a curious
monument, of as early a date as the commencement of the 14th century,
but falsely attributed by tradition to a lady of the name of Rose
Macrae, who is called sister to Strongbow, an anachronism which
confutes itself. The female figure lies on the monument, with the hair
reticulated round the forehead; and on the breast is a solitaire, from
which a curious ornament hangs pendant. Here was fought one of the
bloodiest battles in the late rebellion. (See _Hall's Tour_, vol. i.
98, for many curious particulars.) Near it is Scullabogue, where near
200 protestants were burnt to ashes in a barn.
WEXFORD, 67 m. S. of Dublin, a very ancient town. Vestiges of walls.
See elegant modern Ch.; Court-house; wooden Bridge 2100 feet long,
where 97 protestants were butchered in the rebellion. Trade and
manufacture considerable. Small obelisk, to the memory of Major
Vallotton. See some ruins of the Ch. and Abbey of Selksar, or the
Priory of St. Peter and St. Paul, supposed to have been founded by the
Danes. The antiquary will not fail to visit the majestic ruins of the
Ch. of St. Mary, of which Grose has given a good plate, representing
it as small but of excellent workmanship; being remarkable for its
elegant arches supported by round columns, the cases and capitals of
which are of peculiar construction. The shafts of the pillars are of
hewn stone; but the remainder of the ruin consists of plain walls and
unornamented windows. Amongst the sepulchral monuments which remain,
there is a tomb with some sculptures, and a female figure recumbent,
but for whom it is unknown. The choir is entered by a circular arch,
the others are Gothic. To enjoy a very fine prospect go to Ferry
Carrick, where the stream becomes contracted between considerable
rocks. Here the tourist ought to land, and ascend the rising ground
on the west side of this narrow pass. An inland bay, which appears
unexpectedly, and animates the scene in no common degree, then opens
to the view. This noble expanse of water is bounded by steep banks,
all cultivated, and in some places covered with timber. To the E. the
distant mountains, which are softened into the purple of distance,
add much to the effect of the surrounding scenery, which, indeed,
abounds with uncommon beauties. Immediately beneath is seen a handsome
wooden bridge, painted white, which makes a very pretty object in this
natural picture, still further diversified by the ruins of an old
Castle on an opposite rock; a situation that seems to bespeak a sense
of taste, as well as a sense of danger in the steel-clad chieftain who
once frowned within its sombre walls.
MINERALS.
Schistus and argillite in the western districts. Siliceous
pudding-stone in several places. Granite and limestone.
BOTANY.
Yet uninvestigated.
[Illustration:
_T. Fielding fc._
]
WICKLOW
Is one of the best known in the island for its beauties, on account of
its vicinity to the capital, combining within itself all the rudeness
of uncultivated nature, the romantic effect of wood and glen, the
sublimity of mountain outline, and the charms of extended ocean. It
must be confessed that the interior offers little beyond the variations
of mountain and bog; but the sea-coast is rich in the splendour of
marine villas and the busy neatness of crowded watering-places,
presenting a variety of the most beautiful scenery, which would afford
delightful occupation to the painter, the poet, or the tourist, fond of
delineating nature as it appears, unassisted by the artificial aid of
man. It is true that there are no navigable rivers, but it possesses
abundance of smaller streams, which running down from the mountains
with great rapidity, discharge their waters into the Irish Channel.
Noblemen's and gentlemen's seats are numerous; as those fond of rural
retreats are attracted hither by the vicinity of the capital, and by
the romantic beauties which abound almost every where, as well as by
the uncommon mildness of the climate, which is peculiarly remarkable
for the luxuriance of its foliage in evergreens, myrtles, laurels,
arbutuses, &c. The larch is a favourite in all modern plantations; and
the oak flourishes in the rocky glens. Bounded N. by Dublin; E. by
Irish Channel; S. by Wexford; W. by Carlow and Kildare.
ARKLOW, 10 m. S. of Wicklow.--See Bridge of 19 arches over the Avoca;
modern Ch.; Barracks in commanding situation; ruins of Castle, an
old Tower forming part of the Barracks; and general appearance of
town picturesque. See the mausoleum near to it, to the memory of
the Howard family, conspicuous on a lofty hill. The picturesque and
poetic tourist may amuse himself with tracing the romantic scenery of
the Avoca and Avonmore. See Ballyarthur, the prospect from which, as
described by Mr. Wakefield, must not be omitted by the tourist. This
view is best seen from the terrace, which runs along the summit of
the northern bank that forms one side of the vale of Arklow. The walk
is 1 m. in length, with a summer house in one part where the view is
very fine, below which a slope of great extent, clothed in wood, runs
down to the united streams of the Avoca and Derry, proceeding in one
channel into the ocean at Arklow. This hollow or valley is much wider
than to admit of being called a glen, being about 1-1/2 m. in breadth;
and from hence, looking directly inland, is a fine extent of mountain
scenery, the most conspicuous feature of which is the Croan mountain
fronting a woody bank which forms part of the vale and extends nearly
3 m. Following Mr. Wakefield's hints, the tourist will now direct his
eye down the glen, where the river is seen pursuing its winding course
until it is lost in cultivated fields, bounded by rocky heights of
various forms and tint. On each side is a magnificent prospect of the
ocean; and more immediately to the left lies a most delightful rising
bank, covered with oaks, and forming the northern side of the river.
Here, says Mr. W., the lively appearance of the woods, the tints of
their waving foliage, the magnificence of the mountain scenery, and
the wide expanse of the ocean displaying its surface, all combine to
render this one of those extraordinary scenes of nature which rivet
the attention with delight. The immediate foreground has a curious
effect, being formed of the tops of trees; whilst the river lies
below with slips of cultivated land scattered about its banks, and
encompassed by the most beautiful woody scenery. Mr. W. then directs
the tourist to follow the course of the river in an opposite direction
towards Rathdrum, when the extent of the woods will almost induce him
to imagine himself in the midst of one of those immense forests which
extend over the wildest scenes of nature. Here too a rapid river,
flowing from the mountains, rolls its shallow stream with wonderful
rapidity along its rough and pebbly bed; whilst the opposite side
of the glen is covered with wood to the very summit, behind which
are lofty mountains that seem almost to touch the skies. Cross the
river, pursue the road on the opposite side, and particularly notice
a beautiful view of both sides of the glen in long perspective, with
the river winding in the bottom of it, and the sea terminating the
prospect. Visit Ballykin, seat of the Whaleys, erected on ancient
Abbey. At Ballyrane, a Danish rath in high preservation. Carnew, 12
m. S.W., is a very strong situation, and was long the head-quarters
of the sept of O'Toole, who preserved their independence for several
centuries. It has a lofty square Castle with towers and battlements,
still in tolerable preservation as far as regards the walls, which
are of a blueish stone and of very good workmanship. The turrets are
supported on consoles or brackets, and the whole has a commanding
appearance, but is disfigured by the wretched cabins which crowd
round the base of its venerable walls. Also ruins of old Ch. From
hence the tourist may visit what remains of the ancient oak forest
of Shillelagh. Cronebane, 7 m. W. from Arklow, possesses a mountain
stream, a modern Pactolus, which separates the counties of Wicklow and
Wexford. In the bed of this river large pieces of gold have several
times been found; but when a regular search was instituted, the
quantity taken did not pay the contingent expenses. Some lumps were
also found in the Wicklow side of the mountain; and the tourist, if he
picks up no specimens, may at least pick up health and amusement in
his search. The waters of this place have been supposed to transmute
iron into copper; but the fact is, that they precipitate the contained
copper upon iron bars immersed therein; after which the precipitate is
fluxed, and yields about one half pure copper. Examine the copper ore,
which is found in one spot in a large vein at the depth of 390 feet;
also the mode of procuring copper from the water, by its deposition on
iron bars. Cronbane-house is a mansion highly deserving of notice, for
its singular situation on a piece of land elevated, as Mr. Wakefield
describes it, to nearly half the height of the mountain which forms
the back-ground. The view from it is very fine; for two rivers, the
Avon and the Avoca, wind round it in a semicircular form, exhibiting a
broken outline, which gives them a romantic appearance, and shrouding
the valley of Glendalough in their bosom. The home grounds and walks
also possess many beauties. Kilcarra Castle, 3 m. from the sea, is
the seat of the Earl of Carysfort, lately ornamented with towers
and castellated front; in a retired spot on gentle declivity, with
romantic glen. The new mail-coach road leading past this district
affords many views of fine scenery. Shelton is the beautifully
situated mansion of the Earl of Wicklow, at the base of a range of
hills luxuriantly clothed in wood. Here are some of the finest beeches
and chestnuts in Ireland. House ancient but modernized.
BALTINGLASS, 17 m. W. of Wicklow, is pleasantly seated on the Slaney,
with a good trade and some manufactures. The Castle is in good
repair, and now forms a comfortable mansion. Near it, on the banks
of the Slaney, are the remains of the Abbey, consisting of a long
Chapel totally in ruins, with a belfry tower, and a lofty plain E.
window. Part of it is still roofed, and fitted up for divine service.
Druidical remains in the vicinity; and the name is evidently derived
from the worship of Baal, or Apollo; a circumstance that renders
its antiquities highly interesting. Visit from hence a very curious
Rath at Donard, on a hill called Slievh Guth or Church Mountain,
about 6 m. distant. Here is a holy well to which numerous pilgrims
repair. Stratford in the vicinity is a town of very recent erection,
judiciously planned, but not successful as it ought to be. The cotton
manufacture, however, flourishes.
BLESSINGTON, 18 m. N.W. of Wicklow, stands agreeably on the Liffey,
on the verge of the county, with a handsome modern Ch.; and near it
the ruins of the Marquis of Downshire's noble mansion destroyed in the
rebellion. Ballymore Eustace has been already described in Kildare.
Poll-a-phuca may be visited from this place, with a curious ruin of a
Ch., and part of a Round Tower, and stone cross near it. The cascade
at this place is considered by Miss Plumptre as much finer than the
one at Powerscourt. It is formed by the Liffey amongst abrupt rocky
scenery, well planted with shrubs, with shady walks, and prospect
seats arranged by the taste and liberality of the late Earl of Milton,
whose mansion at Russborough with a centre and wings extending 700
feet, of the Corinthian and Ionic orders, with a good collection of
paintings, is worthy the tourist's notice.
BRAY, 13 m. N. of Wicklow and 11 S. of Dublin, is a place of
considerable fashion in the summer as a bathing-place, independent
of its enchanting scenery and vicinity to some of the sweetest
charms of the county. See the Martello Towers; also Bray-head, with
marble and other extensive quarries: old Castle; and river with good
trout-fishing; Ch. in bold romantic situation. A pleasant jaunt is
to go to Kilmacannoch Ch. in ruins, 3 m.; thence to the Glen of the
Downs; ascend a hill on the right, catching a delightful view of
Delganny Ch. on a rising hill above the village, with the sea in
the distance; thence proceed to Newton Mount Kennedy, 8-1/2 m. from
Bray, and to the vale of Dunran; then 4-1/2 m. to the Devil's Glen,
with fine views of Glendaloch, Luggela, &c.; further on to Rosanna
and Newry Bridge and Wicklow. The Dargle, a most romantic glen
about 1 m. in length, and amidst the Powerscourt scenery, is one of
the usual Irish wonders; but its description would far exceed all
possible limits. Let the tourist attend to the fine ranges of wood;
to the river in the bottom tumbling from rock to rock; to the immense
height and grandeur of the precipices; and to the various breaks of
extended prospect which present themselves in several directions. See
Miss Plumptre's _Tour_, p. 83: also further under _Powerscourt_. At
Delgany, a handsome modern Ch. with a superb monument to the memory
of Mr. Latouche. Ennisherry is a pretty little place much frequented
by invalids, standing near a river at the base of a lofty hill. Near
it is the Glen of the Downs, through which runs the new mail-coach
road to Wicklow. The best mode of visiting this romantic spot is to
proceed to Bellevue, the seat of Mr. Latouche, which is about a mile
from the sea coast and commands a very fine view of Bray-head, with an
extent of marine scenery of considerable interest stretching towards
Wicklow-head. According to Mr. Wakefield's description, the principal
objects of attention, on first entrance, are the green-houses,
connected with the mansion, and exhibiting to the delighted botanist a
most interesting display of exotics and tender indigenous plants, some
of them extremely rare. Behind the house, though not within immediate
view, is the Glen of the Downs. Proceed to a banqueting-house in the
pleasure-grounds, from whence is a sudden but most delightful view
of this romantic scenery, lying directly below the observer, one
side of the glen lined with oaks, and the opposite rising into a
considerable hill clothed with rich foliage, and backed by the lofty
mountain of Thomond. The tourist, if returning to Dublin, may proceed
by Kilternan, 6-3/4 m. from the city, 1 m. beyond which is the Scalp,
a remarkable chasm in a mountain which appears as if rent asunder
by an earthquake. See the Sugar-Loaves in the distance. Near this
are the lead mines of Shankhill amidst granite rocks, with abundance
of galena, or sulphuret of lead, and mica. Collect specimens of
crystallizations of carbonate of lead; also of sulphate of barytes,
of phosphate of lead, and hæmatite or oxide of iron. Kilruddery near
Bray, on the old coach-road, is a romantic mansion seated in a deep
valley in the midst of most picturesque scenery. Luggela, which may be
visited from Powerscourt Park, has in its vicinity a lake of the same
name, seated amidst an ocean of mountainous scenery, surrounded by
dark and naked rocks, and presenting a sombre picture of silence and
desolation: the rugged barrenness of the scene which encircles this
abyss is finely contrasted, in one point, by an expanse of verdant
lawn, together with some plantations, belonging to a cottage erected
there by Mr. Latouche, as a banqueting retirement. A ride of a few
miles, either from Dublin or Bray, leads to Powerscourt, a noble seat,
the road to which is a glen between two vast ridges of mountains
covered with wood, which have a very noble effect. The vale is no
wider than to admit the road, a small gurgling river close to its
side, with some narrow slips of rocky ground and shrubbery. The whole
scenery is of a most magnificent character, and much improved by an
immense conical mountain rising out of the glen, and seeming to forbid
all exit or entrance. An excursion to this favoured spot combines
within its arrangements the several beauties of the Scalp, the
Sugar-Loaf Mountains, and the Dargle: the tourist may therefore bring
them all within one day's visit, if time is short, or visit them in
detail after a general view. The best method is to proceed from Dublin
to Altadore, after which the road for a few miles leads over mountain
scenery of a pleasing character until it approaches the head of a wide
extended glen, with the ocean in front and the domain of Powerscourt
covered with plantations and tillage; whilst the Scalp, a lofty
mountain, shuts up the view in the north, and is finely contrasted on
the opposite side of the compass by the Sugar-Loaf. Let the tourist
now turn completely round, and he will discover a magnificent glen,
richly covered with foliage, with an astonishing waterfall at its
extremity, said to be 360 feet in height. Mr. Wakefield observes that
these objects, however, form only a small part of the romantic scenery
which fills this charming district; and he says that in the extent of
about 6 m. from the Sugar-Loaf Mountains, and from the waterfall to
the ocean, a similar distance, nature has scattered her picturesque
beauties with so liberal a hand, that the view altogether reminds
the spectator of some of those landscapes on canvas, in which the
painter, indulging his genius, has collected such an assemblage of
interesting objects as are seldom found combined together in nature.
The glen already described is the far famed _Dargle_, or the _Glen of
the Oaks_, so that it must have been as well wooded in ancient times,
as its sides are now clothed with verdant oaks, which add considerably
to its native beauties. On a closer investigation the tourist observes
a mountain stream tumbling over its rocky bed with great rapidity,
after issuing from the foaming spray at the foot of the waterfall.
Let him then proceed to the Lover's-Leap, where he will enjoy a most
extensive prospect over the delightful scenery of the woods beneath
him. Turning to the right he will notice the Powerscourt demesne,
which includes a park that extends from the waterfall to the spot on
which he stands, a distance of about 4 m., being an expanse of ground
exhibiting the most uneven and varied outline, and richly planted with
different trees and shrubs of the most luxuriant growth. On all sides
are deep glens whose sides are covered with foliage, contrasted again
by smiling lawns; whilst the mansion itself, a noble edifice built
of the finest granite, is seen embosomed in trees, and overtopped by
lofty mountains in almost endless succession and in all the variety
of outline, blending their tints with the ethereal vapours, and
forming a most striking contrast with the highly cultivated verdure of
the foreground. Formerly there was a most excellent station for the
accommodation of resident visitors, at an inn at Tinnehinch, but the
building has been fitted up as a villa by Mr. Grattan: the tourist,
however, will find other accommodation sufficiently comfortable.
GLENDALOCH is a spot which cannot fail to excite high interest in
the minds of all persons of taste or enthusiasm; for from the very
earliest ages, Ledwich observes, it has been the favourite seat of
Superstition. If visited from Wicklow, (from whence it is 11 m. N.W.,)
proceed 2 m. to Newry-bridge; see Glenmore Castle to the right, seat
of Mr. Synge; ascend an exceedingly steep hill, with fine prospect
looking back to the sea, but in front a brown dismal waste, bordering
on the Devil's Glen. Proceed across a boggy flat, wild and dreary,
towards Anamoe, where is a curious square earthen embankment; the
road dividing, on the right to Luggela, on the left over a country
dreary and mountainous to the little village of Derrybaun at the
confluence of two mountain rivers, a short distance from whence first
gain a view of the once famous city, with its tall Round Tower in the
centre of a large wild valley, encircled with vast rugged mountains.
If you approach it direct from Dublin by the new road, fail not to
notice a charming sheet of water, Lough Bray, with shores embraced
by stupendous cliffs, overtopped by lofty mountains. If going by the
Wicklow road, fail not to notice the Devil's Glen, already mentioned,
which Miss Plumptre considers as the finest in the county. The vale is
about 11 m. N.W. from Wicklow, and 22 m. S. from Dublin, from whence
it forms an agreeable morning ride, and is surrounded on all sides,
except to the E., by stupendous mountains, whose vast perpendicular
height throws a gloom on the deep dell below, well suited to inspire
religious dread and horror: for, being covered with brown heath, or
more sable peat, their summits reflect no light whatever. As nothing
facilitates the observation of the tourist more readily than a clear
idea of the topography of the place he visits, it may now be stated to
him, that on entering the vale, he will perceive towards the S. the
mountains Lugduff and Derrybaun, separated only by a small cataract,
opposite to which, and on the other side of the lake, is Kemyderry,
between which and Broccagh on the north side is a road leading from
Hollywood to Wicklow. At the west end of the upper lake he will
observe a cascade called Glaneola Brook, falling from the hill; and
further on St. Kevin's Keeve, a small stream from Glendason river, and
in which Superstition still dips weak and sickly children every Sunday
and Thursday before sunrise,--and certainly with an efficacy which an
early cold bath must produce on any other day of the week. Looking
into the bosom of the vale, the tourist will soon perceive that these
and other cataracts form a junction when they assume the name of
Avonmore or the Great River, sometimes so swelled with torrents as
to be rapid and dangerous, but generally confined within narrower
bounds, and merely feeding two romantic little lakes separated from
each other by a rich and verdant meadow. It is evident from the names
of the mountains, that these eminences were once a forest; but at
present the gloom of foliage is much wanted by the venerable ruins
of the religious edifices, or the "Seven Churches" that give so much
interest to the vale. Here once stood an extensive city, but now
almost extinct, except that from what can now be discovered by its
walls and foundations, it is conceived to have extended from the
"Refeart Church" to the "Ivy Church," on both sides of the river; and
some idea of its ancient state may be formed from its remains in the
road leading from the market-place into the county of Kildare, still
in good preservation, being paved with stones placed edgewise, to the
breadth of ten feet. Those who wish to know all the superstitious
traditions respecting this holy spot, may consult the second article
in _Ledwich's Antiquities of Ireland_, where they are related. One of
these, however, must be noticed, as explanatory of one of the wonders
of the place. Tradition tells, and Superstition believes, that St.
Kevin, whilst ascending a neighbouring hill in a period of scarcity
and famine, met a woman with a sack on her head, in which were five
loaves. The woman, being rather churlish, when the saint inquired the
contents of her sack, told him they were stones. "I pray they may be
so," said the holy inquirer, when instantly five stones tumbled out,
rolled towards Refeart Ch. where they were kept as sacred reliques
for many years, but are now exhibited in the valley, weighing about
twenty-eight pounds each, and certainly bearing a great resemblance to
loaves, from whence this idle story has arisen. The tourist having
now taken a general survey of the place, it remains to lead him
through it in detail; and the first spot he meets, on approaching from
the E. is the Ivy Ch., completely invested with evergreen foliage,
where he observes a circular belfry, supposed by Ledwich to be one
of the first attempts to unite the Round Tower with the body of the
Ch. Passing on, or rather retracing his steps, a little to the S.E.
is seen the eastern Ch. or Priory of St. Saviour, near which is a
stone-roofed Chapel. Resuming his former route, and rambling about
three hundred yards from the Ivy Ch., is a small square which was
the market-place of the ancient city, with the pedestal of a stone
Cross; to the southward of which he may pass the river on stepping
stones, the ruins of a bridge, and then enter the solemn cemetery by a
gateway with a Saxon arch, when he arrives at the Cathedral, evidently
in the Saxon style of architecture. Here the E. window is deserving
of notice from the curious sculptures which adorn it, representing
the most miraculous actions of the patron saint. This window has the
peculiarity of diminishing in size, until it becomes so narrow as to
be almost impervious either to light or air; a peculiarity evidently
adopted from the want of glass. Here notice a tomb of freestone on the
S. side of the choir: at a short distance, the sacristy or priest's
house, of which a closet, where the vestments and holy utensils were
kept, still remains, to turn thrice round in which, is supposed by
the vulgar to be a certain cure for the head-ache; also some remnants
of crosses and sculptures worth noticing, particularly some on the
tombs of the O'Tooles, ancient Irish kings, here and in the Lady's
and Refeart Churches. Returning from Refeart Ch., observe a circle of
stones piled up conically about three feet high, round which pilgrims
still perform penance; then on a recess of the southern mountain, see
St. Kevin's bed, excavated from the living rock in a projection from
the mountain, also Teanpell-na-Skellis Ch. But the path to these holy
curiosities is so evidently dangerous and difficult, especially in
returning, from its extreme narrowness, that he who wishes to avoid
the chance of a slip into the lake below will be content to admire
them at a distance. Observe in the centre of the vale the ruins of
the Abbey, north of which is Trinity Ch. with part of a Round Tower;
also several smaller chapels and oratories. If time will not permit
the tourist to complete this investigation, let him then approach
this interesting scene by the bridge of Derrybaun, from whence the
Seven Churches present a very picturesque and pleasing view. The
bridge itself is a pleasing object in the landscape, being a modern
erection of three elliptical arches over the Avonmore, covered to a
great extent with an oak coppice on one side and the huge Broccagh on
the other, which here confines the view up the valley, at the end of
which the great Round Tower and other ruins appear to great advantage,
whilst a remarkably smooth and high mountain forms a most singular and
agreeable back-ground.
NEWTON MOUNT KENNEDY, 7 m. S.W. of Bray, and 17 from Dublin, although
placed here under a separate head, may be included in the beauties
round Powerscourt and the Dargle. It is a pleasant village, on the
mail-coach road, half way between Bray and Wicklow, and may therefore
be made head-quarters, especially by the picturesque tourist, and even
by the traveller. The tourist whose time will not permit visits beyond
the immediate vicinity of the metropolis, must not fail to inspect
Mount Kennedy, the seat of the late Lord Rosmore, to which there are
few places in Ireland superior in beauty. The house itself, a design
of Wyatt's, is finished in a high style of modern architecture; and
the principal front is simple, extremely light, but enriched with
an elegant portico of the Ionic order. It is seated on an eminence,
and to the rear, commands a fine view of the sea at the distance of
2 m., whilst the country which the eye runs over in the interval, is
extremely beautiful: from the principal front, looking towards the
west, is seen the demesne, bounded at some distance by mountains which
form a bold termination to the prospect. At distances from the demesne
are spots which present the most striking scenes of natural beauty
and ruggedness. On these the taste and fancy of the late proprietor
have been exerted, so as to render them highly deserving the tourist's
notice, who must not omit to inquire for Dunran, about 2 m. from the
house, even if unable to visit the remaining interesting objects. This
place forms a prominent feature in the list of curiosities to be
visited in this very picturesque county. Dunran is indeed, by its
peculiar beauties, rendered difficult to describe, and more appropriate
to the pencil than the pen. Here are 200 acres of wood, water, rocks,
and lawns highly dressed, in which the bold ruggedness of nature has
been softened by the hand of culture so happily, as not to fritter
away the characteristic grandeur of the original; whilst each romantic
eminence presents a varied and extensive prospect of mountain, vale,
and wood of this beautiful county, at intervals contrasted with the
sublime and expansive line of the ocean. This glen has many miles of
road winding through it; and the rambler will often find its deepest
recesses enlivened by the cheerful parties which frequent it during
the summer.
RATHDRUM, 8 m. S.W. of Wicklow, forms an excellent station for the
artist, with fine mountain and river scenery on the Avon; with
romantic mountains towards Arklow, covered with luxuriant forests
finely contrasting with the wild and savage landscape in other parts
of the vicinity. See the Wool hill; some lead-mines near it, between
which and Rathdrum in the valley is a romantic bridge, which Miss
Plumptre strongly recommends as a subject for the pencil. Visit the
beautiful grounds of Avondale, 1 m. distant: whilst here, the tourist
will find a very agreeable excursion in a trip to Glenmolaur, about 14
m. from Wicklow, being a long strait glen, or valley, rude and barren,
with a rivulet wandering through it between two mountains, whose tops
are so broken and divided as to seem like an extensive chain, yet the
sides are so smooth and steep that cattle frequently, by grazing too
near, slip down and are killed by the fall. At the entrance of the
glen is a lonely shepherd's cottage; and in proceeding towards its
termination, the visitor finds a rugged ascent formed of huge pieces
of rock loosely thrown together, whilst the ascent opens into an
ample cove, or kind of amphitheatre, from the top of which descends a
waterfall that feeds the stream below, and though inconsiderable in
dry seasons, yet becomes a foaming cataract after heavy rains, adding
greatly to the romantic wildness of the scene.
WICKLOW, 24 m. S. of Dublin, stands agreeably on the side of a lofty
hill. Tolerably good accommodations. See the Ch., with high steeple;
modern Court-house; Gaol, and Market-house; ruins of Black Castle,
on a huge rock rising from the sea; and some curious limestone caves
at the base of Wicklow-head. Some remains still exist of the Abbey
of Franciscan Friars, founded in the reign of Henry III. Little more
is left than masses of broken walls with some fine arches; but being
seated in private garden-ground, they have of late years escaped
dilapidation. Wicklow ale is excellent. Ballybeg is a house and
demesne near Wicklow, which to the lovers of mountain scenery cannot
fail to afford gratification. Mr. Wakefield observes, that although
destitute of lake or river, yet the magnificent prospect of mountain
rising above mountain, until they fade in the distance, presents quite
an alpine view, the distant hills clad with woody scenery, and the
foreground well filled up with thriving plantations, verdant lawns,
and other modern improvements. There is a very pleasant pedestrian
ramble to the Devil's Glen. On the right appears the sea at some
distance, extending from Wicklow-head to another headland: beneath the
observer's eye is the glen with a mountain stream running along its
bosom; beyond which are cultivated hills, rocky promontories, and fine
plantations of evergreens surrounding the place of view;--the whole
forming a scene of great beauty.
MINERALS.
Trap; greenstone; hornblende; felspar; porphyry; and pyrites:--round
Arklow.
Copper, with some recent discoveries of gold; pyrites:--at Cronbane.
Lead ore; large blocks of pure quartz; blocks of mica slate; foliated
galena, and gneiss:--at Glenmolaur.
Gneiss; granite:--on Lugneguilla Mountain.
Lead ore; galena; carbonate of lead crystallized; sulphate of
barytes:--at Shankhill.
Hornstone, and quartz:--in the Sugar-loaf mountains.
BOTANY.
_Asplenium Trichomanes_, English black Maiden-hair:--on rocks.
_Hieracium paludosum_, Succory-leaved Hawkweed:--on the Mountain of the
Three Rocks.
_Juniperus communis_, Juniper:--on mountains.
_Pulmonaria maritima_, Sea Bugloss:--on the Meneagh of Wicklow.
_Saxifraga umbrosa_, London Pride, or None-so-pretty:--on mountains.
_Silene amœna_, Sea Campion:--among stones near the sea.
_The following Iters from Dublin, extracted from_ CUMMING'S Traveller's
Guide through Ireland, _may be found useful_.
_miles._
From Dublin to Howth.
To Marino 2
Clontarf 2-1/4
Raheney 4
Beldoyle 6
Howth 7-1/2
From Dublin to Malahide.
To Coolock 3
St. Douloughs 4-1/2
Malahide 6-1/2
From Dublin to Balbriggan.
To Drumcondra 2
Santry 3
Swords 7
Turvey 9
Man of War 12
Balruddery 14
Balbriggan 15-1/2
From Dublin to Naul.
To Glassnevin 2
Forest 5-3/4
Brackenstown 6-1/4
Bally-boghill 10-1/2
Naul 14
From Dublin to Garrelstown.
To Finglass 3
Pass if you Can 5-1/4
St. Margarets 5-3/4
Chapel Midway 7
Kilsaloghan 8-1/4
Clonmethan 10
Garrelstown 14
From Dublin to Cloonee.
To Castleknock 3-1/2
Mullahedart 6-1/4
Cloonee 7
From Dublin to Lucan.
To Chapelizod 2-3/4
Palmerstown 4
Lucan 6-1/2
From Dublin to Tallagh.
To Crumlin 3
Tallagh 5
From Dublin to Waterford.
To Rathcool 8
Johnstown 5-1/2 13-1/2
Naas 2-1/2 16
Kilcullen Bridge 5 21
Timolin 8 29
Castle Dermot 5 34
Carlow 5 39
Leighlin Bridge 6 45
Royal Oak 2 47
Gowran 5-1/2 52-1/2
Thomastown 7 59-1/4
Waterford 15 74-1/4
From Dublin to Limerick.
To Rathcool 8
Johnstown 5-1/2 13-1/2
Naas 2-1/2 16
Kildare 9 25
Monasterevin 5 30
Maryborough 10 40
Montrath 7 47
Burros Ossory 7 54
Roscrea 5 59
Toomovara 10 69
Newport 17 86
Limerick 8 94
From Dublin to Cork.
To Rathcool 8
Johnstown 5-1/2 13-1/2
Naas 2-1/2 16
Kilcullen Bridge 5 21
Timolin 8 29
Castle Dermot 5 34
Carlow 5 39
Leighlin Bridge 6 45
Royal Oak 2 47
Kilkenny 10 57
Callen 9 66
Ballypatrick 10 76
Clonmel 6 82
Ardsennan 7 89
Clogheen 4 93
Ballyporeen 4 97
Kilworth 8 105
Fermoy 2 107
Rathcormick 5 112
Cork 12 124
From Dublin to Galway.
To Lucan 7
Maynooth 5 12
Kilcock 2 14
Clonard Bridge 12 26
Terrilpass 14 40
Killbeggan 5 45
Athlone 15 60
Ballinasloe 12 72
Aghrim 4 76
Loughrea 11 87
Oranmore 14 101
Galway 4 105
From Dublin to Donaghadee.
To Swords 7
Balruddery 7 14
Drogheda 10 24
Dunlear 7 31
Dundalk 10 41
Newry 9 50
Loughbrickland 8 58
Dromore 8 66
Hilsborough 4 70
Lisburne 3 73
Belfast 7 80
Bangor 10 90
Donaghadee 4 94
ITERS
THROUGH
DIFFERENT COUNTIES OF IRELAND.
MR. HOLMES'S ITER, 1797.
_miles._
From Kilkenny to Cork.
To Kells 6 4
Callan 4 4
Cashell 18 6
Holy Cross 7 2
Silver Mines 10 0
Killaloe 8 2
Limerick 9 7
Adare 9 0
Askeyton 8 3
Tarbert 14 3
Listowel 19 4
Castle Island 2 5
Killarney 9 7
Cork 38 4
Cove 6 0
From Cork to Kilkenny.
To Rathcormuck 13 1
Lismore 10 0
Clonmell 11 4
Callan 16 4
Thomastown 10 2
Kilkenny 8 0
SIR RICHARD COLT HOARE, 1806.
DUBLIN
To Black Bull Inn 10
Trim 12
Mitchelstown 11
Mullingar 12
Kilbeggan 12
Tullamore 6
Birr 19
Nenagh 19
Limerick (through
Killaloe) 25
Adare 8
Newbridge 8
Tarbert 16
Tralee 25
Killarney 15
Mill Street 16
Cork 23
Cloyne 18
Youghall 12
Lismore 15
Fermoy 15
Mallow 15
Charleville 15
Tipperary 21
Cashel 10
Johnstown 17
Durrow 8
Ballyroan 8
Emo Inn 9
Kildare 10
Naas 10
Racool 8
Dublin 8
Maynooth 12
Trim 14
Mitchelstown 11
Kells 12
Virginia 9
Cavan 13
Belturbet 8
Enniskillen 19
Church Hill 9
Ballyshannon 14
Donnegal 9
Ballybofey 14
Derry 20
Newton Limavady 13
Coleraine 10
Causeway 10
Ballymony 7
Ahoghill 14
Antrim 12
Belfast 12
Hillsborough 12
Tullamore Park 21
Hilltown 8
Ross Trevor 6
Newry 7
Dundalk 10
Dunleer 10
Slane 14
New Grange 3
Navan 6
Trim 8
Killcock 11
DUBLIN 16
----
Irish miles 810
N.B. By the ratio of 11 to 14, or 16-1/2 to 21, 40 to 50, this 810
Irish, makes rather more than 1030 English miles; but in travelling,
the various length of miles, and the reputed distances between stages,
often lead to much inconvenience.
_Tour from Dublin through several of the Southern Counties, and
returning to Dublin: made in 1809._
_miles._
To Enniskerry 10
Bray 9
New Town Mt. Kennedy 8-1/2
Dunran 3
Turn leading to the
Devil's Glen 4-1/2
Wicklow 5
Glendaloch 12
Rathdrum 6-1/2
Arklow 8-1/2
Gorey or Newborough 9-1/2
Ferns 8-1/2
Enniscorthy 5-1/2
Ferry Carrick 9
Wexford 3
Fook's Mill 11-1/2
New Ross 8-1/2
Waterford 12
Through Curraghmore:
To Carrick-on-Suir 17
Clonmell 11
Ardfinnan 7
Clogheen 5
Lismore 10-1/2
Youghall 14
Castle Martyr 8-3/4
Middletown 5
Cork 12
Macroom 19
Mill Street 10
Killarney 16
Tralee 15
Listowell 15
Rathkeale 20
Adare 6
Limerick 8
Bird Hill 10
Nenagh 11
Roscrea 15-1/2
Burros in Ossory 6
Maryborough 13-1/2
Emo Inn 5-1/2
Monasteraven 5
Kildare 5
Naas 9-1/2
Johnstown 2
DUBLIN 13-1/2
ROUTES
OF MAIL COACHES FROM DUBLIN.
CORK MAIL, _Starts a quarter before 8 in the evening_.
To Naas,
Kilcullen,
Castle Dermot,
Carlow,
Leighlin Bridge,
Royal Oak,
Kilkenny,
Clonmel,
Clogheen,
Fermoy,
Cork--Arrives 1/4 past 9 following night.
LIMERICK MAIL, _Starts a quarter before 8 in the evening_.
To Naas,
Kildare,
Monasteraven,
Maryborough,
Montrath,
Burris,
Roscrea,
Nenagh,
Limerick--Arrives about 3 in the afternoon.
GALWAY MAIL, _Starts a quarter before 8 in the evening_.
To Leixlip,
Maynooth,
Clonard,
Kinnegad,
Killbegan,
Moat,
Athlone,
Ballinasloe,
Loughrea,
Galway--Arrives about 5 in the afternoon.
SLIGO MAIL, _Starts a quarter before 8 in the evening_.
To Leixlip,
Maynooth,
Clonard,
Kinnegad,
Mullingar,
Rathowen,
Edgeworth Town,
Longford,
Roosky Bridge,
Drumsna,
Carrick-on-Shannon,
Boyle,
Colloony,
Sligo--Arrives about 5 in the afternoon.
WEXFORD MAIL, _Starts a quarter before 8 in the evening_.
To Bray,
Arklow,
Gorey,
Ferns,
Enniscorthy,
Wexford.
NORTHERN MAIL, _Starts forty minutes after 7 in the evening_.
To Balbriggan,
Drogheda,
Dunleer,
Castle Bellingham,
Dundalk,
Newry,
Banbridge,
Dromore,
Hilsborough,
Lisburne,
Belfast,
Donaghadee.
----
Portpatrick.
ENNISKILLEN MAIL, _Starts forty minutes after 7 in the evening_.
To Dunshaughlin,
Navan,
Kells,
Virginia,
Cavan,
Newtown-Butler,
Lineskea,
Maguire's-Bridge,
Enniskillen.
KILLESHANDRA MAIL, _Starts at 6 in the morning, Mondays, Wednesdays,
and Fridays_.
To Dunshaughlin,
Navan,
Kells,
Old Castle,
St. Nugent,
Ballynaught,
Crossdoney,
Killeshandra--Arrives at 7 in the evening.
LONDONDERRY MAIL, _Starts at half past 7 in the evening_.
To Balbriggan,
Drogheda,
Collon,
Ardee,
Carrickmacross,
Castle Blaney,
Monaghan,
Aughnacloy,
Omagh,
Strabane,
Derry.
WATERFORD MAIL, _Starts a quarter before 8 in the evening_.
To Naas,
Kilcullen,
Timolin,
Carlow,
Gowran,
Thomastown,
Waterford.
DROGHEDA MAIL, _Starts half past 7 in the morning, and returns the same
day_.
INDEX
OF THE
MOST REMARKABLE PLACES AND OBJECTS CONTAINED IN THE VOLUME,
WITH REFERENCE EITHER TO THE NEAREST TOWN, OR THE COUNTY IN WHICH THEY
ARE SITUATED.
Abbey Boyle, Roscommon
Abbey Showery, Baltimore, Cork
Achill Islands, Mayo
Achoury, Sligo
Adare, Limerick
Aghadoe, Maryborough, Queen's County
Aghrim, Galway
Agnew's Hill (View from), Glenarm, Antrim
Aileach Neid, Londonderry
Anahilt, Hillsborough, Down
Ancient Abbey, Boyle, Roscommon
Ancient Abbey and Church, Sligo
Ancient Castle, Elphin, Roscommon
Ancient Castle, Swords, Dublin
Antique Cross, Kilcullen, Kildare
Antrim (County of), Antrim
Antrim Castle, Antrim
Ardagh, Longford
Ardbraccan, Episcopal Palace, Navan, Eastmeath
Ardfert, Kerry
Ardglass, Downpatrick, Down
Ardmillar, Killyleagh, Down
Ardmore, Dungarvon, Waterford
Ardmoy Tower, Bally Castle, Antrim
Arigal, Inishowen, Donnegal
Arklow, Wicklow
Armagh, Armagh
Ashbrooke's (Lord) Mansion, Castle Durrow, Kilkenny
Askeyton, Limerick
Athassel Abbey, Cashel, Tipperary
Athboy, Eastmeath
Athenry, Galway
Atherdee, Louth
Athlone, Roscommon
Athlone, Westmeath
Athy, Kildare
Aughnacloy, Tyrone
Baggotsrath Castle, Dublin
Balbriggan, Balruddery, Dublin
Baldungan Castle, Balruddery, Dublin
Ballinafad, Sligo
Ballinderry, Antrim
Ballinrobe, Mayo
Ballintubber Abbey, Castlebar, Mayo
Ballitore, Kildare
Ballyarthur Prospect, Arklow, Wicklow
Ballycotton Bay, Castle Martyr, Cork
Ballybeg, Wicklow
Ballybeg, Mallow, Cork
Ballybegan, Tralee, Kerry
Ballyboy, King's County
Ballygelly Promontory, Larne, Antrim
Ballymahon, Longford
Bally Castle, Antrim
Ballycarn Bay, Downpatrick, Down
Ballymena, Antrim
Ballymony, Antrim
Ballymore, Westmeath
Ballymote Castle, Ballinafad, Sligo
Ballynahinch, Down
Ballynamona, Mallow, Cork
Ballynasloe, Galway
Ballyshannon, Donnegal
Ballyspellan, Castle Durrow, Kilkenny
Ballyvaston, Downpatrick, Down
Ballyvourney, Macroom, Cork
Balruddery, Dublin
Baltimore, Cork
Baltinglass, Wicklow
Banagher, King's County
Banbridge, Down
Bandon, Cork
Bangor, Down
Bannow, Wexford
Bantry, Cork
Barnmoor Pass Scenery, Donnegal
Barnsmore Mountain, Rapho, Donnegal
Baron's Court, Newton Stewart, Tyrone
Baronston, Castletown Delvin, Westmeath
Barrows or Small Raths, Kildare
Beal Castle, Tarbert, Kerry
Bective Abbey, Trim, Eastmeath
Belan House, Ballitore, Kildare
Beldoyle, Dublin
Belfast, Antrim
Belfast Bridge, Belfast, Antrim
Bellcoo, Fermanagh
Belleek, Fermanagh
Bellisle, Lord Ross's Seat, Lough Erne, Fermanagh
Belturbet, Cavan
Belvidere Scenery, Mullingar, Westmeath
Belvoir, Belfast, Antrim
Belvoir, Comber, Down
Bengore Head, Antrim
Bevrac Mount, Drogheda, Louth
Birr, King's County
Black Rock, Dublin
Blarney Castle, Cork
Blessington, Wicklow
Bray, Wicklow
Briansford, Dundrum, Down
Brighton of Ireland, Rostrevor, Down
Bruce's Castle (ruins of), Rathlin, Antrim
Bullock, Dublin
Burros, Queen's County
Bush Mills, Antrim
Buttevant Abbey, Mallow, Cork
Cairn on Slieve Croob, Ballynahinch, Down
Cairn Tierna, Rathcormack, Cork
Callen, Kilkenny
Carlingford, Rostrevor, Down
Carlingford Castle, Carling, Louth
Carlingford, Atherdee, Louth
Carlow, Carlow
Carnew, Arklow, Wicklow
Carreg Abbey, Downpatrick, Down
Carrick-a-Rede, Bally Castle, Antrim
Carrickasticken, Dundalk, Louth
Carrickfergus, Antrim
Carrickmacross, Monaghan
Carrick-on-Shannon, Leitrim
Carrick-on-Suir, Tipperary
Carton, Leixlip, Dublin
Cashel, Tipperary
Castle Audley, Strangford, Down
Castlebar, Mayo
Castle Bellingham, Louth
Castle of Bunratty, Sixmile Bridge, Clare
Castleblany, Monaghan
Castle Caldwell, Ballyshannon, Donnegal
Castle Carberry, Kildare
Castle Comer, Kilkenny
Castle Connell, Limerick
Castle Connor, Enniscrowen, Sligo
Castle Dermot, Kildare
Castle Dillon, Rich Hill, Armagh
Castle Durrow, Kilkenny
Castle Guard, Atherdee, Louth
Castle Hyde, Mitchelstown, Cork
Castle Island, Kerry
Castleknock, Dublin
Castle Lyons, Cork
Castle Martyr, Cork
Castlereagh, Comber, Down
Castle of Roslee, Enniscrowen, Sligo
Castle Screen, Downpatrick, Down
Castletown, Delvin, Westmeath
Castle Upton, Temple Patrick, Antrim
Castle Ward, Strangford, Down
Castle Wellan, Dundrum, Down
Cavan, Cavan
Cave Hill, Belfast
Celtic Antiquity, New Grange, Navan, Eastmeath
Chalybeate Spring, Killyleagh, Down
Chapelizod Strawberries, Dublin
Charlemont, Armagh
Charleville Castle, Martyr, Cork
Charleville Castle, Tullamore, King's County
Clain, Kildare
Clare, Clare
Clay Castle, Youghall, Cork
Clodagh Castle, Mill Street, Cork
Clogher, Tyrone
Clogher Palace, Clogher, Tyrone
Clogh, Dundrum, Down
Cloghnakilty, Cork
Cloncha Cross, Inishowen, Donnegal
Clondalkin, Dublin
Clondrohid, Mill Street, Cork
Clonegall, Wexford
Clones, Monaghan
Clonfert, Galway
Clonmany, Inishowen, Donnegal
Clonmell, Tipperary
Clonmines, Wexford
Clonmines Abbey, Clonmines, Wexford
Clontarf, Dublin
Clough-i-stookin, Glenarm, Antrim
Cloyne, Cork
Coalpits, Castle Comer, Kilkenny
Coleraine, Londonderry
Coleshill, Longford
Columkill's Cell, Kells, Eastmeath
Comber, Down
Con-a-glour, Dungarvon, Waterford
Cong, Ballinrobe, Mayo
Conical Rath, Downpatrick, Down
Connor Cathedral, Randalstown, Antrim
Cootehill, Cavan
Copland Isles, Donaghadee, Down
Cork, Cork
Court Abbey, Achonry, Sligo
Courtown Evergreens, Enniscorthy, Wexford
Cove, Cork
Craig Millar Cliffs, Bally Castle, Antrim
Creeve Rocks, Newry, Down
Croagh Patrick, Westport, Mayo
Croan Mountain Scenery, Arklow, Wicklow
Cromlech, Burros, Queen's County
Cromlech, Kilmogue, Knoctopher, Kilkenny
Cromlech, Dromore, Down
Cromlech and Giant's Cradle, Larne, Antrim
Cromwellian Encampment, Armagh
Cronbane House, Arklow, Wicklow
Cronebane Mountain Stream, Arklow, Wicklow
Cross Island, Donaghadee, Down
Crownbridge, Newry, Down
Cuchullin's Stone, Inishowen, Donnegal
Culdean Abbey, Roscrea, Tipperary
Curious Cave, Strancally, Lismore, Waterford
Curragh Race-ground, Kildare
Cushendun, Antrim
Dalkey, Dublin
Dalys Bridge, Cavan
Danish Encampment, Cloyne, Cork
Danish Entrenchment, Dingle, Kerry
Danish Entrenchment, Rathanane, Dingle, Kerry
Danish Fortifications, Ardfert, Kerry
Danish Fortification, Navan, Eastmeath
Danish Forts, Clones, Monaghan
Danish Forts, Magherafelt, Londonderry
Danish Gallery, Bally Castle, Antrim
Danish Mount, Castle Durrow, Kilkenny
Danish Rath, &c. Abbey Boyle, Roscommon
Danish Rath, Athy, Kildare
Danish Raths, Bally Castle, Antrim
Danish Rath, Ballyrane, Arklow, Wicklow
Danish Raths, Ballyshannon, Donnegal
Danish Rath, Baltinglass, Wicklow
Danish Rath, Banbridge, Down
Danish Raths, Belfast, Antrim
Danish Rath, Callen, Kilkenny
Danish Rath, Castletown, Delvin, Westmeath
Danish Raths, Clones, Monaghan
Danish Rath, Clones, Monaghan
Danish Rath, Cloyne, Cork
Danish Rath, Comber, Down
Danish Rath, Donaghadee, Down
Danish Rath, &c. Downpatrick, Down
Danish Rath, Dromore, Down
Danish Rath, Miltown, Dundalk, Louth
Danish Rath, &c. Dundrum, Donnegal
Danish Raths, Dungarvon, Waterford
Danish Raths, Fethard, Wexford
Danish Raths, Castle Durrow, Kilkenny
Danish Rath, &c. Newry, Down
Danish Raths and Antiquities, Temple Patrick, Antrim
Danish and Druidical Remains, Mill Street, Cork
Danish Station and Rath, Dundalk, Louth
Danish Stone Rath, Enniscrowen, Sligo
Danish Works, &c. Middleton, Cork
Dargle, Bray, Wicklow
Devenish Isle, Lough Erne, Fermanagh
Devil's Castle, Tarbert, Kerry
Devil's Glen, Glendaloch, Wicklow
Dingle, Kerry
Donaghadee, Down
Donamon Castle, Roscommon
Doneraile, Cork
Donnegal, Donnegal
Downpatrick, Down
Drogheda, Louth
Dromagh, Mallow, Cork
Dromana, Dungarvon, Waterford
Dromaragh, Dromore, Down
Dromoland, Ennis, Clare
Dromore, Down
Druidical Altar, Macroom, Cork
Druidical Altars, Fenaught, Leitrim
Druidical or Danish Circle, Cahir Conregh, Tralee, Kerry
Druidical Circle, Dundrum, Down
Druidical Circle, Inishowen, Donnegal
Druidical Cromlech, Dublin
Druidical Cromlech, Swords, Dublin
Druidical Remains, Balrichan, Dundalk, Louth
Druidical Remains, Baltinglass, Wicklow
Druidical Remains, Castle Durrow, Kilkenny
Druidical Remains, Clogmanta Hill, Kilkenny
Druidical Remains, Knoctopher, Kilkenny
Druidical Temple, Lisneskea, Fermanagh
Druids' Altar, Cloyne, Cork
Druids' Altar, Rathfarnam, Dublin
Drumbanagher Hill, Glasslough, Monaghan
Drumbo, Comber, Down
Drumcondra, Dublin
Drumlane Priory, Belturbet, Carlow
Drummilly, Rich Hill, Armagh
Drymnagh Castle, Castleknock, Dublin
Dublin, Dublin
Dublin Botanic Garden, Glasnevin, Dublin
Duleek, Eastmeath
Dun Aengus, Galway
Dunamase, Maryborough, Queen's County
Duncannon Fort, Fethard, Wexford
Duncearma Castle, Kinsale, Cork
Dunda Rock Prospect, Macroom, Cork
Dundalk, Louth
Dundrum, Down
Dundrum, Dublin
Dungarvon, Waterford
Dungannon, Tyrone
Dunkerry Cave, Giant's Causeway, Antrim
Dunleary, Dublin
Dunleer, Dundalk, Louth
Dunluce Castle, Bush Mills, Antrim
Dunmall Fortress, Glenarm, Antrim
Dunmanway, Ross
Dunmore Cave, Kilkenny
Dunmore Castle, Navan, Eastmeath
Dunran, Newton Mount Kennedy, Wicklow
Eagle's Nest, Killarney, Kerry
Earl's Rath, Knoctopher, Kilkenny
Earth-Works, Greenmount, Castle Bellingham, Louth
Echo, Kilkelly, Castlebar, Mayo
Edenderry, King's County
Edgeworthstown, Longford
Elphin, Roscommon
Ennis, Clare
Enniscorthy, Wexford
Enniscrowen, Sligo
Enniskillen, Fermanagh
Ennisteague, Kilkenny
Fairhead, Antrim
Fairy Chair, on the Hill of Kyle, Burros, Queen's County
Fairy Hillock, Kilshielan, Clonmell, Tipperary
Fairy Rock, Kilgarvon, Killarney, Kerry
Farnham, Cavan
Faughan, Dundalk, Louth
Fenaught, Leitrim
Fenough, Leighlin Bridge, Carlow
Fermoy, Cork
Ferns, Wexford
Ferns Castle, Ferns, Wexford
Ferry Carrick Prospect, Wexford
Fethard, Tipperary
Fethard, Wexford
Fhirleath, Fairhead, Antrim
Flax, 1lb. spun 214 miles long, Comber, Down
Flying Bridge, Bally Castle, Antrim
Fore, Westmeath
Fort of Turgesius, Fore, Westmeath
Galway, Galway
Garron Point, Cushendum, Antrim
Garryhaddon, Leighlin Bridge, Carlow
Giant's Causeway, Antrim
Giant's Grave, Sligo
Giant's House, Ballinafadd, Sligo
Giant's Load, Balrichan, Dundalk, Louth
Giant's Loom, &c. Giant's Causeway, Antrim
Giant's Ring, Belfast, Antrim
Giant's Ring, Comber, Down
Giant's Ring, Lisburne, Antrim
Giant's Stairs, Cork
Gilford Scenery, Banbridge, Down
Gilgorm Castle, Ballymena, Antrim
Glandine Gap, Birr, King's County
Glandore Bay, Ross
Glasnevin, Dublin
Glasslough, Monaghan
Glenariff Vale, Cushendun, Antrim
Glenarm, Antrim
Glendaloch, Wicklow
Glendariff Scenery, Bantry, Cork
Glenmolaur, Rathdrum, Wicklow
Gobbins Heir, Bally Castle, Antrim
Gorey, Wexford
Gosford Castle, Market Hill, Armagh
Gougenabara, Macroom, Cork
Gowran, Kilkenny
Grace Dieu, Balruddery, Dublin
Graignemanach, Gowran, Kilkenny
Granard, Longford
Gransha, Newtonards, Down
Grey Abbey, Newtonards, Down
Groom's Port, Bangor, Down
Grose's Grave, Drumcondra, Dublin
Hags Bed, Rathcormack, Cork
Hogshead, astonishing Scenery, Kilfenora, Clare
Hamilton's Bawn, Market Hill, Armagh
Hillsborough, Down
Hilltown, Rathfrylaud, Down
Holm Patrick, Balruddery, Dublin
Holy Island, Killaloe, Clare
Hore Abbey, Cashel, Tipperary
Horse-leap, Mullingar, Westmeath
Howth Prospects, Dublin
Inchigeela, Macroom, Cork
Inis Courcey, Downpatrick, Down
Inishowen Barony, Donnegal
Iniskean, Cloghnakilty, Cork
Irish Chieftains (Seat of), Bush Mills, Antrim
Isle of Magee, Carrickfergus, Antrim
Iveagh and Mourne Mountains, Rostrevor, Down
Iveragh Barony, Kerry
Jamestown, Leitrim
Jonesborough, Armagh
Jonesborough Mountains, Loughbrickland, Down
Judgement Chair, Dublin
Kanturk, Mallow, Cork
Karn Gaur, Newtonards, Down
Kateshole, Mallow, Cork
Kells, Eastmeath
Kells, Curious Stone Cross, Kells, Eastmeath
Kenmare, Kerry
Kilbeggan, Westmeath
Kilcarra Castle, Arklow, Wicklow
Kilclief Castle, Strangford, Down
Kilcock, Kildare
Kilcoleman Castle, Doneraile, Cork
Kilcullen, Kildare
Kildare, Kildare
Kilfenora, Clare
Kilkenny, Kilkenny
Killaloe, Clare
Killala, Mayo
Killarney and Lake, Kerry
Killone Hill, Maryboro', Queen's County
Killough, Downpatrick, Down
Killybegs, Donnegal
Killyleagh, Down
Kilmacrenan, Letterkenny, Donnegal
Kilmallock, Limerick
Kilmanahan Castle, Waterford
Kilmore, Cavan
Kilrea, Londonderry
Kilrush, Clare
Kilworth, Cork
Kinnegad, Westmeath
Kinsale, Cork
Kirkistown, Portaferry, Down
Knights Templars (Castle of), Dundrum, Down
Knight of Kerry's Mansion, Dingle, Kerry
Knockdale, Bally Castle, Antrim
Knockmeledown, Lismore, Waterford
Knocktopher, Kilkenny
Kyle and Bellevue Seats, Enniscorthy, Wexford
Lake of Currane, Iveragh, Kerry
Lambay Island, Dublin
Lanesborough, Longford
Larne, Antrim
Lea Castle, Portarlington., Queen's County
Leitrim, Leitrim
Leixlip, Dublin
Leixlip, Kildare
Lesecresig, Macroom, Cork
Letterkenny, Donnegal
Lifford, Donnegal
Limerick, Limerick
Lisburne, Antrim
Liscarrol, Mallow, Cork
Lismore, Waterford
Lismore Castle, Lismore, Waterford
Lisnarick, Fermanagh
Lisneskea, Fermanagh
Lissanoure Castle, Ballymony, Antrim
Lissize, Rathfrylaud, Down
Listowell, Kerry
Lohort Castle, Mallow, Cork
Londonderry, Londonderry
Longford, Longford
Longford Pass, Thurles, Tipperary
Lough Bray, Glendaloch, Wicklow
Loughbrickland, Down
Lough Corrib, Galway
Lough Derg, Donnegal
Lough Derg, Galway
Lough Derryveragh, Mullingar, Westmeath
Lough Ennel, Mullingar, Westmeath
Lough Erin, Hillsboro', Down
Lough Erne, Ballyshannon, Donnegal
Lough Erne, Fermanagh
Lough Esk, Donnegal
Lough Lane, Fore, Westmeath
Loughlinstone, Dublin
Lough Mourne, Rapho, Donnegal
Lough Neagh, Antrim
Lough Outer, Cavan
Lough O'Whel, Mullingar, Westmeath
Lough Ramor, Virginia, Cavan
Lough Rea, Galway
Lough Salt Scenery, Letterkenny, Donnegal
Lough Scenery, Strangford, Down
Louth, Dundalk, Louth
Lucan, Leixlip, Dublin
Luggela Scenery, Bray, Wicklow
Lurgan, Armagh
Luttrell's Town, Dublin
MacCarty's Castle, Macroom, Cork
MacDermot's Island, Elphin, Roscommon
Macroom, Cork
MacSwine's Castle, Letterkenny, Donnegal
MacSwine's Gun, Letterkenny, Donnegal
Magherafelt, Londonderry
Magheralin, Dromore, Down
Maghretibot, Athlone, Westmeath
Mallow, Cork
Mamore Gap, Inishowen, Donnegal
Manor Hamilton, Leitrim
Marble Mill, Kilkenny
Marble Quarries, Dromore, Down
Marino, Dublin
Market Hill, Armagh
Maryborough, Queen's County
Maynooth, Kildare
Maze Course, Hillsboro', Down
Mellifont Abbey (Ruins of), Drogheda, Louth
Middleton, Cork
Mill Street, Cork
Milton's (Earl of) Mansion, Blessington, Wicklow
Mitchelstown, Cork
Moira Castle, Dromore, Down
Moira, Dromore, Down
Molly Geerane's House, Dingle, Kerry
Monaghan, Monaghan
Monaincha, Roscrea, Tipperary
Monasterboice, Drogheda, Louth
Monk's Town Abbey, Carrickfergus, Antrim
Monument (curious), St. Saviour's Church, Ross, Wexford
Moorfield, Kilworth, Cork
Moravian Settlement, Ballymena, Antrim
Mount Albani, Balrichan, Dundalk, Louth
Mount Alexander Castle, Comber, Down
Mount Alt, Letterkenny, Donnegal
Mount Gabriel Prospect, Ross
Mount Kennedy, Newton Mount Kennedy, Wicklow
Mountmellick, Queen's County
Mount Nephin, Castlebar, Mayo
Mourne Mountains View, Dundrum, Down
MSS. (Valuable), Kilkenny
Mount Panther, Dundrum, Down
Mullingar, Westmeath
Multifarnam Abbey, Mullingar, Westmeath
Murkish Mountain, Letterkenny, Donnegal
Naas, Kildare
Narrow Water, Newry, Down
Navan, Eastmeath
Naul, Balruddery, Dublin
Nenagh, Tipperary
Newark Park, Thurles, Tipperary
Newcastle, Limerick
New Castle, Dundrum, Down
New Market, Mallow, Cork
Newry, Down
Newton Barry, Clonegal, Wexford
Newtonards, Down
Newton-Breda, Comber, Down
Newton Limavaddy, Londonderry
Newton Mount Kennedy, Wicklow
Newton Stewart, Tyrone
Nine Mile House Scenery, Tipperary
Observatory, Dublin
O'Donnels (Castle of the), Ballyshannon, Donnegal
Ogham Inscription, Ennis, Clare
Old Cathedral, Cashel, Tipperary
Omagh, Tyrone
Optical Aerial Illusions, Rathlin, Antrim
Oratory, Killaloe, Clare
O'Shaughnessy's Castle, Clognakilty, Cork
Ossian's Poems (Scenery of), Cushendun, Antrim
Ouchterard, Galway
Oysters, Carlingford, Louth
Pagan Fane, Skirk, Burros, Queen's County
Pallis, Limerick
Papp's Mountains, Mill Street, Cork
Patrick's Isle, Balruddery, Dublin
Philipstown, King's County
Picts' Caves, Belfast, Antrim
Pleaskin, Antrim
Poll-a-phuca Cascade, Blessington, Wicklow
Pontoon, Athlone, Westmeath
Portadown, Armagh
Portaferry, Down
Portarlington, King's County
Portarlington, Queen's County
Portavo, Donaghadee, Down
Portcoon Echo, Giant's Causeway, Antrim
Portmore Castle, Ballinderry, Antrim
Portumna, Galway
Potatoes first planted at Youghall, Cork
Powerscourt, Bray, Wicklow
Priest's Leap, Bantry, Cork
Prospect, Cappoquin, Lismore, Waterford
Prospects (extensive), Curraghmore, Waterford
Puffing Hole, Kilrush, Clare
Purgatory, Donnegal
Pyramid of White Stones, Birr, King's County
Quakers' Colony, Ballitore, Kildare
Quakers' Village, Londonderry
Quarry of Alknever, Newton Limavaddy, Londonderry
Quilca Mountain, Swadlinbar, Cavan
Ram Island, Lough Neagh, Antrim
Ram Island, Ballinderry, Antrim
Randalstown, Antrim
Rapho, Donnegal
Rathbeath, Kilkenny
Rathcormuck, Cork
Rathdrum, Wicklow
Rathean Common, Maryborough, Queen's County
Rathfarnham, Dublin
Rathfryland, Down
Rathlin, Antrim
Rathmelton, Letterkenny, Donnegal
Reginald's Tower, Waterford
Remon Lodge, Antrim
Reverberating Cave, Iveragh, Kerry
Rich Hill, Armagh
Ringhaddy, Killyleagh, Down
Rivers running N. and S. Loughbrickland, Down
Roche's Waterfall, Balruddery, Dublin
Romantic Bridge, Rathdrum, Wicklow
Romantic Road, Glanbeny, Iveragh, Kerry
Roscommon, Roscommon
Roscrea, Tipperary
Ross, Cork
Ross, Wexford
Ross Castle, Dalysbridge, Cavan
Rostrevor, Down
Round Tower, 112 feet high, 17-1/2 feet from
perpendicular, Lough Rea, Galway
Rutland, Letterkenny, Donnegal
Sacred Fire, Kildare
St. Declan's Stone, Dungarvon, Waterford
St. Doulogh's Church, Dublin
St. Fechin's Monastery, Fore, Westmeath
Saintfield, Comber, Down
St. Finian's Well, Downpatrick, Down
St. Kevin's Keeve, Glendaloch, Wicklow
St. Mary's Church, Wexford
St. Olan's Cap, Macroom, Cork
St. Patrick's Cathedral, Dublin
St. Patrick's Grave, Downpatrick, Down
St. Scordin's Well, Downpatrick, Down
Salmon Leap, Ballyshannon, Donnegal
Sarah Bridge, Dublin
Saul Abbey, Downpatrick, Down
Scalp (The), Bray, Wicklow
Scraba Mountain, Newtonards, Down
Scullabogue, Wexford
Seven Churches (The), Glendaloch, Wicklow
Shaalan Lake, Dalysbridge, Cavan
Shanes Castle, Antrim
Shankhill Lead Mines, Bray, Wicklow
Shelton, Arklow, Wicklow
Shillelagh Forest, Arklow, Wicklow
Sixmile Bridge, Clare
Skehewrinky, Mitchelstown, Cork
Skellig Islands, Iveragh, Kerry
Slane, Navan, Eastmeath
Sleigh Grian, Tory Hill, Knocktopher, Kilkenny
Slemish Mountain, Ballymena, Antrim
Slieve Croob, Ballynahinch, Down
Sligo, Sligo
Sloane (Sir Hans) born, Killyleagh, Down
Snowton Castle, Balruddery, Dublin
Spanish Armada wrecked, Kilfenora, Clare
Spanish Entrenchment, Ross
Stewart Hall, Dungannon, Tyrone
Stone Bridge, Lismore, Waterford
Stone Cross (Ancient), Dromore, Down
Strabane, Tyrone
Strangford, Down
Struel Wells, Downpatrick, Down
Subterraneous Cave, Balrichan, Dundalk, Louth
Swadlinbar, Cavan
Swords, Dublin
Sugar-Loaf Mountains, Bray, Wicklow
Tallagh, Dublin
Tanderagee, Armagh
Tarah, Navan, Eastmeath
Tarbert, Kerry
Temple Bryan, Cloghnakilty, Cork
Temple More, Thurles, Tipperary
Temple Patrick, Antrim
Thomastown, Kilkenny
Thurles, Tipperary
Timahoe Castle, Maryborough, Queen's County
Tintern Abbey, Fethard, Wexford
Tory Island, Donnegal
Tralee, Kerry
Trim, Eastmeath
Tuam, Galway
Tullamore, King's County
Tullon, Carlow
Tullamore Park, Dundrum, Down
Tura (Site of) Inishowen, Donnegal
Turkelly's Well, Rathfryland, Down
Tuscan Pass, Newry, Down
Tynan, Armagh
Virginia, Cavan
Walsh's Castle (View of), Strangford, Down
Warren's Point, Newry, Down
Waterford, Waterford
Westport, Mayo
Wexford, Wexford
Wicklow, Wicklow
Woodfort Prospect, Mallow, Cork
Youghall, Potatoes first planted here, Cork
Printed by R. and A. Taylor, Shoe-Lane
TRANSCRIBER'S NOTE:
Numerous errors have been corrected and inconsistencies in
spelling have been resolved where possible. The author's
original spelling, punctuation and hyphenation have been
left intact apart from the changes made to deal with the
numerous inconsistencies in spelling. In order to avoid
ambiguity, abbreviated words in the Index have been
written in full. Counties have been added where these are
missing.
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