Gunlance guide for Monster Hunter Potable 3rd (JP)
By Sephiroth1491 (a.k.a. Kon-sama1491)
Version 1.25 Copyright 2011 Pablo Diaz Samaniego
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Contents
1.- Introduction
2.- Abbreviations
3.- Changes from Monster hunter freedom unite/portable 2nd G
4.- The Basics
4.1.- Starting up
4.2.- Shelling
4.3.- Wyvern Fire
4.4.- Full Burst
4.5.- Charge Shells
5.- In depth info
5.1.- Combo'ing
5.2.- Combo with shelling
5.3.- Other Info
6.- Skills
7.- Calculating shell damage
8.- Monster Walkthrough
Guild Card Monsters Page 1 [GCP1]
8.1.- Great Jaggi
8.2.- Great Baggi
8.3.- Great Froggi
8.4.- Qurupeco
8.5.- Red Qurupeco
8.6.- Bulldrome
8.7.- Aoashira
8.8.- Urukususu
8.9.- Rangurotora
Guild Card Monsters Page 2 [GCP2]
8.10.- Barroth
8.11.- Ice Barroth
8.12.- Uragaan
8.13.- Steel Uragaan
8.14.- Doboruberuku
8.15.- Deviljho
8.16.- Royal Ludroth
8.17.- Purple Royal Ludroth
8.18.- Happurubokka
9.- Weapon recommendations
9.1 Starting weapons
10.- Autoguarding
11.- Contact and Credits
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Changelog
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12/27/11 Version 0.5 First release of the guide
02/02/12 Version 1.0 -Added monsters in monster walkthrough
-Fixed some data and errata
07/02/12 Version 1.20 -Added more monsters to Monster Walkthrough
-Fixed errata and added more small info here
and there
09/02/12 Version 1.25 -Added more monsters to Monster Walkthrough
-Added some notes and missing info
-Fixed some typo
01/05/12 Version 1.30 -Added notes and new info
-Corrected some typo
-Fixed some errata
24/06/12 Version 1.40 -Added small information
-Corrected typos
01/11/12 Version 1.50 -Corrected a lot of grammar errors
-Added new info on weapons list
-Added new info on the current monster listed
-Fixed some typos and erroneous info
08/11/12 Version 1.55 -Added more monsters to monster guide
27/12/12 Version 1.60 -Added new section "Starting weapons"
-Added more info and fixed some errors on
monsters walkthrough
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1.- Introduction
=====================================================================
Welcome to this in-depth guide. This is my first guide ever done,
I love the Monster Hunter saga so much, that i decided to share the
in-depth knowledge i learned to new people but might also be useful
for older ones that want to get more serious with gunlance.
This one is a tricky weapon, but for me it's so fun to use, once you
get the hang of it can work very good for solo and online modes.
This guide will cover from the very basics of the weapon like how
to use and get started, to advanced tactics, like learn which attack
recovers faster, how much effective shells are, etc.
I will also include some basics on how to defeat monsters easier
with the gunalnce, like when to attack, positioning, etc.
Sadly i can't make any videos, i'm sure this would help mostly
with the specific monster walkthrough, there's some things that just
can't be explained with words and would be better seen in play.
But i still hope this information can be enough.
I hope you find this useful, now to work.
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2.- Abbreviations
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I will use many abbreviations to terms and skills in this guide.
Terms:
Gunlance----------------------------------(GL)
Charged Shell-----------------------------(CS)
Regular Shell-----------------------------(RS)
Full Burst--------------------------------(FB)
Wyvern Fire-------------------------------(WF)
Charged Spread Shell----------------------(CSS)
Any bombardment Level---------------------(LVL X)
Normal type-------------------------------(NT)
Long type---------------------------------(LT)
Spread type-------------------------------(ST)
Skills:
Sharpness+1-------------------------------(S+1)
Speed sharpening Increased----------------(SSi)
Sharp Sword-------------------------------(SS)
Gunnery Master----------------------------(GM)
Gunnery King------------------------------(GK)
Guard+1/+2--------------------------------(G+1/2)
Evade+1/+2--------------------------------(Ev+1/2)
Load Up-----------------------------------(LU)
Attack up S/M/L---------------------------(AuS/M/L)
Autoguard with Gunlance-------------------(AGGL)
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3.- Changes from Monster hunter freedom unite/portable 2nd G
=====================================================================
If some of you tried out Gunlance in the past games, they got a big
change all-round this time.
The most notorious one is that now instead of 3 simple stabs,
the last attack will be a slam attack, stronger but slower and has a
bigger recovery time, but that can chain to other new shell attacks,
explained below.
The shells system got improved, Now each shelling type has its own
advantages, while the weapon is more responsive, and works faster.
Also at difference of Unite, at end-game the weapon doesn't fall
behind in tier, in fact is one of the stronger weapons in the game,
never as strong as a hammer (of course may vary from monster to
monster and player to player) but way better than almost every other
weapon.
But in the end,it's the player that makes the weapon, not otherwise.
(Even if some weapons are easier to pick up >_>)
In P3rd, the Gunlance lose less sharpness with shelling, and you can
do long hops even without the need of an attack first.
And you can now hop from guard stance. Very useful to go from defense
to offensive.
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4.- The Basics
=====================================================================
This info is pretty basic, it's made to mostly help newcomers,
some of this info could be obvious for advanced players, but i guess
it never hurts to give it a check just in case.
-------------------
4.1.- Starting up
-------------------
So let's start by a picking any GL, you start with a one weapon of
each type, so you surely have one already.
it's best to try out the moves and get familiarized with them,
it has so many you would need to memorize them before going on
a serious quest.
-Low Stab: Just press triangle, it can be chained twice.
-Slam: Third attack after chaining 2 low stabs (Triangle),
or by pressing triangle after a fast reload.
-Shell: Press circle.
-Upstab: Press Triangle+Circle.
-Forward stab: Press triangle while moving the analog.
It's also the unsheath attack of the GL,
can also be used by doing an attack while moving the
analog to a direction as first attack.
This can also be used after firing a mid/high shell.
-Back/Side hop: Press Cross, if you pull the analog to a side after
an attack, the hunter will hop to that side, and if
you pull it backwards, the hunter will do a long hop,
roughly the equivalent of 2 small ones.
Sadly unlike lance, GL can only do one hop.
-Charge shell: Hold R button as you press circle to fire a shell.
Can only be done after the first attack, so firing
one just like that can't be charged, but unlike
regular shells, you can do a hop after firing
one of these.
-Forward stab cancel->shell: As you do a forward stab, press circle
before it does the actual attack,
the hunter will cancel the thrust and
fire a shell instead.
This shell can also be charged making
it the only "first" shell attack that
can be charged.
-Guard: Press R button.
-Guard Stab: While guarding press triangle.
-Unsheath Guard: Press R+circle+triangle at same time with the
weapon sheathed.
-Reload Shells: Guard and press circle, or do a hop and press circle.
-Fast Reload: After firing a shell, press circle again,
and it will instantly reload 1 shell.
-Wyvern Fire: While guarding, if the third stab of a combo is a
guard stab or after a slam attack,
press triangle+circle.
-Full burst: After a slam attack, press circle and you will unload
all shells currently loaded at the same time.
-------------------
4.2.- Shelling
-------------------
Now, Shelling, at difference of normal attacks, have fixed damage
and ignore the hitzone defense, so no matter where it hits,
it will always do the same amount of damage.
Though, if the monster has fire weakness, it will do a bit more
damage varying on the hitzone fire weakness.
You can shoot them at any time as long you're not in red sharpness.
Keep in mind that shells deplete your weapon sharpness
at the rough equivalent of 1 shell=2 stabs, so keep this in mind if
you need to watch your sharpness level.
Also, you can chain a shell after any type of stab attack, and if
you do this, the attacks count will reset, so doing a stab after
a shell will be counted again as "stab 1", making easy to chain
attacks, like doing 2 consecutives low stabs and then firing
a shell, the count will reset and then next attack will be a
low stab instead of a slam.
Another thing to note is the bombardment level, displayed next to
the attack value. The higher level, the stronger shells will be.
It ranges from 1 to 4, though the 4th level is only restricted to
3 end-game gunlances, so don't expect to have them any time soon,
and even then they aren't the best at all.
Shells are separated in 3 types:
---------------
| Normal (NT) |
---------------
It carries 5 shells per load, the most of the 3 types, so
it can be easier to chain combos with them without so many reloads
but they do the lowest damage.
-SPECIAL EFFECT.- Its full burst (FB) is stronger than the other 2
shell types. But can also burn your sharpness faster.
--------------
| Long (LT) |
--------------
It carries 3 shells, the shells do higher damage than the NT,
and the shells have a longer reach. A balanced style.
-SPECIAL EFFECT.- Its Wyvern fire is stronger among all types.
Using Gunnery king with this type might be very useful for this.
----------------
| Spread (ST) |
----------------
Only carries 2 shells, though they do superb damage.
Its FB is terribly weak, so you shouldn't by any mean use FB with
this shell type.
-SPECIAL EFFECT.- Its charged shells get a 45% boost.
You can spot which type is your GL by checking the upper right corner
of the weapon details.
------------------------
4.3.- Wyvern Fire (WF)
------------------------
This is one of the best features of the gunlance, to use it, you
need to be in guard stance, or right after a slam attack, or if the
3rd attack of a chain you did was a guard stab. The attack takes a
bit to fire, but it deals a lot of neutral damage that is separated
in 4 hits, though, the 4 hits will hit the closest part to the tip
of the gunlance, so say you wanna use it on a rathalos wing, then
you have to get a bit farther from him, if you use it right next to
it, the WF will surely end up hitting the body instead.
After shooting it, it takes 2 minutes to cool down before it is
available again. So be sure to use it when its guaranteed you will
hit the target. Also remember if you use a long type GL, the WF will
get stronger damage.
Wyvern Fire and shells can also break any part of a monster that
don't require cut-only (like tails) or impact-only (Barroth head).
Also an important thing is that WF power is based directly off the
bombardment level, meaning a LVL3 NT and ST wyvern fire will do the
same damage even if shells vary.
--------------------
4.4.- Full Burst
--------------------
This is a new feature of GL. After doing a slam attack,
you press circle while the hunter still has the GL in the ground,
then all the shells loaded at the time will be fired together.
So this attack takes a serious advantage of the number of shells
it has loaded, a NT gunlance gets the best advantage of this,
since it already unloads the most shells and they get an extra
class damage boost.
But unlike NT GL's, Spread Type shells have the lowest damage
with FB, shell number-wise and also get a modifier penalty.
--------------------
4.5.- Charge Shells
--------------------
Charge shells are one of the best improvements of GL, the shell takes
a bit longer to fire, but the damage is 20% boosted, and all shells
get benefitted from it.
It's also the only way you can hop right after a shell, quite useful
for hit and run tactics where the monster has high defense,
like happurubokka.
But spread type shells get the best advantage by far, getting a wider
reach and the shells get a 45% boost compared to the 20% the other
two types get.
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5.- In depth info
=====================================================================
This will mostly contain info that might be similar to the one above,
but with the advantage it contains a better in-depth explaining and
that unexperienced players might not understand at first.
----------------------
5.1.- Combo'ing
----------------------
One of the best advantages of GL is that you can pretty much follow
any attack after any other (some restrictions applies obviously).
For example, every 2 hits you can shell and start the combo over,
so it won't do a slam as 3rd attack and lose much time with the
recovery of it.
Gunlance is so diverse in combos that i would never finish if i was
to list all of them, it's up to you to improvise according to
the situation and take advantage of it. The gunlance has no limits
in terms of making attack combos and thanks to the shield you can
keep at close range most of the time without losing your position.
These are some basic rules to keep in mind when combo'ing:
-The attacks damage output are represented here:
Slam 40%
Forward stab 32%
Upstab 28%
Low stab 24%
Guard stab 18%
So you should try to do the Guard Stab as less as possible, though
there's some exceptions like deviljho, ni which it can be useful to
hit its stomach.
-The Forward stab doesn't count in the combo count, so you
can do a forward stab, then follow with two low stabs and finish
with a slam, that would be 4 attacks without a shelling in combo.
-If the 3rd attack of a random combo is an Upstab, a slam will be
always available at end, again chaining 4 attacks without a shell
in between.
-With these 2 notes above, you can do a 5 stab combo without a shell
in between, with a forward stab, 2 low stab, upstab and end with a
slam.
-Dending on the monster behavior, some combos would be good to end
in guard stab then go to guard stance.
Though still it wouldn't be the best idea to go all out on this,
if you checked the damage values above you'd notice it could be a
better idea to use the upstab and slam as most as you can,
so for example doing an upstab>guard stab>upstab can do more damage
than 2 low stabs and shell.
---------------------------
5.2.- Combos with shelling
---------------------------
With the info above, the shells can play a big role in terms
of combo'ing.
Like with stabs, there's some basic rules you should know about
shelling while you combo to maximize your reactions:
-You can shell after every stab without exception, meaning you can
even use the stab attacks to "aim" where you want to shell,
like say, aim with an upstab to hit really high things,
like hit a rathalos head while he's flying or any amatsu part, if
you know the correct position you could even hit a doboru hump from
below with them.
-If you fire a shell after an upstab or guard stab, you can follow
up with a forward stab, hadny to go from defensive to offensive.
-You can use a charge shell at any time you can fire a shell, except
when you just fire a shell as first attack.
-You can follow a charge shell just after a regular shell without
having to do a regular attack or fast reload in between.
-Also with the above rule you can fire a charged shells after another
one, use them consecutively without the need of a fast reload
between each of them (obviously unless it's the last shell and needs
to reload it forcefully).
-You can do a hop to any direction after a charge shell without
the need of an attack in between.
-You can chain a Fast reload, to a slam and finish with WF/FB.
-Another advice is that the mid/high shells have a faster recovery
than a stab attack so you can guard faster after firing one in
case you can't guard stab to guard.
-Also if you have the GL WF used, when you do a slam you can press
the WF input so it does the "unloaded" animation, that will cancel
almost half of the recovery after a slam and works faster than
a hop after slam, a pretty useful thing to know, it also works with
using FB without shells, but it's not as fast.
-Like the above if you have the shells unloaded you can fast cancel
the upstab animation to faster recovery.
-------------------------
5.3.- Other Info
--------------------------
A golden rule for gunlancing:
NEVER let your sharpness level go below yellow, if it gets to
orange you'll hit 75% of damage, so you're not only doing
weaker hits with it and bouncing more, but the shells also suffer
this penalty, and if it gets to red you won't be able to use them
at all.
-Take note that GL DPS isn't very good, so for an effective use of
gunlance we have to take advantage of elements, in this game every
monster is decently weak to an element, in certain monsters even 2
and luckily there's at least a good element GL for each one. So it's
a better option to take advantage of this. Raw only gunlances are not
really recommended, though they would still do the job well.
-Another good thing to know would be that the skills "Gunnery master"
and "Gunnery king" (GM,GK) can increase the damage of shells, by 10%
and 20% respectively.
-With those 2 skills, WF also gets higher damage, getting the same
multipliers as above, but remember it's separated in 4 hits.
And GK also decreases the cool down time of it from 2 min. to
1:30 min. So if your thing is using WF like, and especially when
using a LT GL, GK would be a very good option.
-Shells get a X3 damage multiplier when shot to a sleeping monster.
-A wyvern fire shot to a sleeping monster would only get the first
hit with triple damage, the other three will hit normally. So it's
not a good idea to do this.
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6.- Skills
====================================================================
The GL has many armor skills that can be helpful, but most of them
are the usual that could work with any other weapon.
I won't list element skills, because even if GL's benefit more
from elemental attack, it's always better to buff the raw damage.
This is a list of recommended skills, i will post the description
just in case some of you may not know them (or for the lulz):
Sharpness+1:
Increase the sharpness level (duh), only recommended if the weapon
can reach a higher level of sharpness, like from blue to white or if
it gets more sharpness than it could get "doubled" with sharp sword.
Otherwise pass it up.
Attack up S/M/L:
Increase the attack by 10, 15 and 20 respectively, AuL works roughly
equally as good as s+1, a basic offensive skill.
And best option if S+1 is useless on the weapon you're using, like
having a weapon with already white sharpness, though having both
AuL and S+1 is always good on weapons that don't.
Exploiter:
Gives an instant +50% affinity when you're hitting the weak point of
monsters, it's one of the best skills to use in the game.
Though it's not recommended if the weakpoint is hard to reach, like
doboruberuku's humps or rathian and rathalos subspecies backs, or
hapurubokka's mouth and gills.
Speed sharpen:
Gunlance lose sharpness really quick thanks to shells and the usual
attacking, so this skill helps maintain a good sharpness.
Sharp sword:
Same as speed sharpening, though this one also might help you save
whetstones, and keep very small sharpness levels for more time, like
uka/aka weapons. Downside of this is it conflicts with sharpness+1,
so if you want SH+1 and this you need a VERY good charm.
Guard+1/2:
Gunlance and lance have the advantage of having a bigger shield,
and with this skill, you can pretty much protect from every attack
with small to none pushback and stamina loss, also helps you to gain
a faster recovery time to use to attack on certain monsters.A barroth
is a good example of it, you can recover faster than him after his
head ram gving you time to attack the arms from below it.
Evade +1/2:
This skill lets you evade through monster attacks easier,
in some monsters, this can help you take advantage of openings
easier. Jinouga is a good example of this, since it has faster
recovery after attacks that you can't win with just G+1/2.
Gunnery master/king:
Increase neutral damage by 10% and 20% of shells and wyvern fire,
it also decreases Wyvern fire cool down time in 30 sec.
Not GL related but it also increases damage of cannons, ballista,
and some bowgun ammo, just in case you feel like using them on jhen
or such.
Destruction king:
In case you need to brake a monster part faster this is for you,
works like charm comboed with shell, if not try asking uragaan chin.
Guard Inc.:
This IMO, isn't very useful, but if you're new to GL or got the lazy
guard+1/2 curse it might work for you, it let's you guard the
otherwise unblockable attacks, like gigginox poison fart or agnaktor
beam. Even amatsu ohko tornado can be guarded with this.
====================================================================
7.- Calculating shell damage
====================================================================
Shell and wyvern fire damage can be easily calculated, thanks to
the fixed damage they have.
Thanks to Holywoodchuck's guide for the formula i could get the
numbers, then with some research with HP show hacks i could
rectify if numbers were correct.
These are the shells values:
Type / Level Neutral Fire
Normal 1 10 4
Normal 2 14 5
Normal 3 18 6
Normal 4 21 7
Long 1 15 9
Long 2 21 11
Long 3 28 14
Long 4 32 16
Spread 1 20 6
Spread 2 30 8
Spread 3 40 10
Spread 4 44 11
Wyvern Fire
Level Neutral Fire
1 30X4 10X4
2 35X4 11X4
3 40X4 12X4
4 45X4 13X4
And here's the formula:
[(NEUTRALxNSKILLxNSPECIAL)+(ELEMENTxEHITZONExNESKILLxESPECIAL)]
x(GSHARP)
x(DEFENSExRAGExSTATUS) = total damage
The formula tells us to take the neutral damage, multiply it for
skill modifier and the charge modifier.
I.E.: Lets say i have a Spread lvl3 GL with Gunnery king and i shoot
a charge spread.
40 X 1.2 (GK) X 1.45 (Charge) = 69.6
Then we calculate elemental damage, in most cases this is useless
since not all monsters are weak to fire, but lets say we're fighting
a gigginox.
The formula tells us we take element damage, multiply for the
monster hitzone (in this case where it hits matters), multiply
element modifiers, that most of the time isn't needed, and another
multiplier that isn't used.
10 X 0.3 (Giggi head) X 1 X 1 (When a value isn't altered is 1)
= 3 damage
___________
Then we add them: 69.6+3= |72.6 damage|
-----------
Then multiply that for the defense of the monster, that is changed
from quest level. And the status of the monster, like being paralyzed
or asleep.
So, if its a village gigginox you would be damaging 72
But if it was a high rank one with a defense modifier of .75,
it would be doing 54
72.6 X 0.75 = 54.45
For calculating wyvern fire you could just sum the hits, like a
level 3 WF would hit 40*4, then you just place 160 damage on the
Neutral value in the formula. If you are hitting a sleeping monster
Then multiply it X6, as instead of hitting 160 you would be hitting
240 neutral.
====================================================================
8.- Monster Walkthrough
====================================================================
Now this section will cover info on how to fight a certain monster,
I will list them in order of the guild card, so some monsters might
appear before some other in the game, but in the guild card they
appear before, like great jaggi and great baggi.
========================================
Guild Card Monsters Page 1 [GCP1]
========================================
------------------
8.1.- Great Jaggi
------------------
Weakness: Fire
This monster is pretty simple, the weak point is the head, but the
body takes a fairly good amount of damage, so it doesn't really
matter if you aren't hitting the head all the time.
WHile gunlancing him you should be always one step before him, since
he's really fast and you are slower than normal he can corner you
fast or build damage with small attacks, so your positioning comes
into play, try to stay to his left, that way if he tries to do his
tail whip you have a faster gap to evade it.
He will usually do some back jump to reposition himself, and most
of the times do his hipcheck, it can be easily guarded or if you
have a good position evaded with a hop or a forward stab.
He will fall really quickly, but can really help you on hone your
reflex skills, since is one of the faster monsters in the game.
------------------
8.2.- Great Baggi
------------------
Weakness: Fire
Rage Modifier: 1.00
Unlike Jaggi, this S.O.B. will never stop attacking, he's totally
reckless when attacking and can move faster than great jaggi.
To fight him follow the same rules as with great jaggi tho with
more care, since it never stops attacking.
Also the body takes considerably lower damage, so your best bet
is to attack the head. A good thing about gunlancing him is with
shells you could be doing good damage to the body, and since is
weak to fire they do a bit more damage
He can do 1 tail whip and stop at difference of most monsters
that always do 2 tail whips.
If he start with a hipcheck be careful, he may start using his
hipcheck, he usually does 3 of them, but at times he suddenly only
uses it until you stagger him or around 5-6 attacks. Is powerful
and build KO damage on you, since you're gunlancing him it can
be easy to guard, but he may deplete your stamina really fast.
Also when he starts walking backwards, he is positioning to use
his sleeping spit, it can be easily guarded, even without guard inc.
Also try to take out the small baggis, they are really annoying and
if you stand still, that with gunlance is usual, they will start to
throw you sleep spits too.
-------------------
8.3.- Great Froggi
-------------------
Weakness: Ice
Great Froggi is another version of the jaggi, he's easier than baggi,
but can hurt you bad if you let his poison hit you.
Apply the same rules as great jaggi, take note of your position,
mostly try to stay to his left so his tail whip is easy to evade.
This one has a stronger body, so attacking the head would be best
recommended.
He can go cheap mode and start hipchecking you nonstop, the only way
to stop this is staggering him or until he stops.
When he starts walking backwards he's positioning to spit his
poison cloud, is really easy to avoid it, if you go towards him you
could be even attacking from the front without getting hit by it.
Though be careful, if you break his sac, he will no longer throw a
a poison cloud but throw a spit, that if you're right next to the
head will hit you.
Small froggis aren't as annoying as small baggis, but they can
hipcheck you and can poison you, so try to take them out as fast
as you can.
---------------
8.4.- Qurupeco
---------------
Weakness: Ice
Now this is where it gets serious, he can act faster than you can
react, most of his attacks can be easily evaded or guarded though.
A key point of fighting him is your positioning.
He's weak to ice and With gunlance you have the advantage of hitting
the head easy with an upstab, but it's very dangerous to stay
directly in front of him, he usually does a charge or 4 peck attack
if you stay in front.
So the best way is to stay to a side, most of his attacks can be
predicted and avoided with just walking.
Never stay close to him from his left, his tail whip will hit
you and has a tricky hitbox so you could end up hit from
the right side.
Try to keep above yellow sharpness, otherwise you will bounce in
the wings, also the wings can be easily broken with shells.
A general rule about peco is to bring dung bombs and sonic bombs,
If he tries to do a song, use the sonics and he will stagger.
If you can't stop the monster call, the dung bombs can be useful
to drive him out, though i would say it's a better option if you
dung the peco, he's more likely to flee, because the monster he
called won't flee that easy.
Never stay at 1-2 rolls of distance for too much, he will do a
backwards fly with a burst that can deal serious damage, also
this attack can do damage even if you guard it, the best option is
to do a long hop.
When you see him hitting his flintstones, depending of the number
hits he will do 2 or 3 homing flame attacks, 2-3 slams for 2 attacks
that will then follow with a taunt or fly back, or do 3-5 slams for
a 3 attack combo that will always end in a taunt.
It may be apparently homing but you can evade it with just walking
to a side, just don't stop rounding him or doing forward stabs and
it won't hit you without any trouble at all.
You can do this even with the GL unsheathed.
To prevent the air pushing you, do an upstab, charge a shell or
do a forward stab.
-------------------
8.5.- Red Qurupeco
-------------------
Weakness: Ice
Basically the same info and tactics from regular peco works with
this one.
The changes between them is this one does thunder damage with their
silex.
His tail whip has a longer reach and does air pushing.
He can do a KO'ing flash, you can easily spot it because he will
stand still and start slamming their wings 3 times, the flash can
be guarded and evaded, but evading it is tricky, so i'd suggest
to guard it first. If you brake his beak, he will take 5 silex
slams to do the flash.
----------------
8.6.- Bulldrome
----------------
Weakness: Thunder (to a smaller extent fire)
A pretty simple monster, he can only charge forward, so stay to a
side or behind him and you'll be fine. Don't stay next to him too
much or he'll start attacking with the tusks. The head is the weak
point and can be fairly easy to stagger.
In high rank he has a new attack where he starts charging in an 8
form,but he can move towards you if he "centers" you. With gunlance
this can be easily guarded, just never lose him of sight or he may
end up hitting you from behind.
---------------
8.7.- Aoashira
---------------
Weakness: Fire
This one may be tricky, You have to attack his lower back, but he
will try to stay facing you, with gunlance thanks to the reach it
has, and depending on the shira size, you could even hit his back
from the front.
All his attacks can be guarded or evaded with GL, his favorite
attack is the turning claw, but don't let it fool you, it has a
longer reach than his short arm appear to have, this is really easy
to evade through. So if you have a good position, that is behind him,
but not directly and depending of shira's size, it's a better option
to just evade it with a hop.
If you stay around 5 rolls of distance, he will do a jump attack,
the high rank version has a homing type.
Also an important thing about GL'ing him is some movements will keep
tripping you, mostly his small headbutt so maintain a good position,
or do an attack to bypass the trpping, thou you'll get a bit of
damage, like a forward stab or a charge shell.
At first if you have yellow sharpness, you will bounce on his front
arms, but you can break them with shells and WF.
----------------
8.8.- Urukususu
----------------
Weakness: Fire
This monster could fit as a color variation of the aoashira. He
shares many attacks of him, and the same weak point.
Though he is a bit faster, and can slide in the ice to reposition
behind you, these slides won't damage you much, but can trip you.
You can also hit the head if he lowers it and break the ears.
All his own attacks can be guarded or evaded easily, so there's not
a big advice to give. A basic monster to learn to fight with GL
And since he's weaker to fire he takes more damage with shells.
------------------
8.9.- Rangurotora
------------------
Weakness: Water
Now this is the third "variation" of the shira breed, this one is
more different than the other 2. This one can make themselves a ball,
and ususally roll over you, and here is where gunlance shines (lol),
since ranguro is a huge weakpoint when is in ball form, and you can
either stab him, if you're sure you got the timing right, or shell
him, that is a better option, and stagger him easy.
Like the other 2 "shira breed" this one can be easily guarded or
evaded. Though he has a paralyze spit, that has an incredible homing
capability, and the farther you're of him the better aim he has.
But luckily this can be guarded with no problem with gunlance.
His weak point is the upper back and face, so it's a bit more tricky
to hit, but you can shell him in the lower part of the body for good
damage. Also if you hit the lower part of his carapace, from behind
you will trip him and make him fall upside down, giving you time to
attack the head and end with a WF.
And since you're carrying a shield you can guard his fart cloud and
keep attacking him as he finishes the animation. In case you don't
have guard inc., it wouldn't hurt to bring some deodorants just in
case.
=====================================
Guild Card Monsters Page 2 [GCP2]
=====================================
---------------
8.10.- Barroth
---------------
Weakness: When covered in mud water, without being covered fire
This one may be tricky to gunlance at first, it moves to much,
has a strong head where you bounce, and his headram has a wtf hitbox.
If you're starting to gunlance, this is seriously one of the first
monsters i recommend you to have guard+1/2, since most of his attacks
have a stronger pushback.
The trick is to try to hit their arms as much as possible, you could
try to cut the tail too, and it takes somewhat decent damage.
Barroth can only be tripped when he is NOT enraged, otherwise if you
do a stagger hit to a leg, he will just stagger. Keep this in mind if
you plan to take advantage tripping him since he have somewhat
weak legs.
Also you can keep making pressure with a random shell here and there,
i'd recommend you to take the mud off his head with them, that way
when he tries to do a head bash he won't splash mud.
And since he is weak to fire without mud, you do a bit more damage
with shells.
The head ram is very hard to evade when it's already going towars you
so if you're not very well positioned just guard it, and the high
rank version has one with more homing and faster capability, though
is easy to differentiate between them, since in the latter barroth
stays with the head in the ground for what looks like a micro freeze.
But both are easy to predict, since he always walk backwards to
position himself, like the jaggis, before he does a head ram.
-------------------
8.11.- Ice Barroth
-------------------
Weakness: Fire when is covered in snow, thunder when isn't.
This is a stronger version(?) of him, he ususally is bigger, and
aside from the size has a bigger head than the regular one.
He shares most attacks with the regular version, but has some tricks,
for example he can do one tail whip and stop, and he can do the head
ram in a cursive "L" way, so if he does this, guard behind you or
move fast from there.
He can also throw snowballs that require a good position to be safe,
the 2 of the sides are thrown in diagonal to where he shot them, so
as long you aren't directly in front of him is easy to stay safe.
If not just guard them.
When he's enraged he will usually do two consecutive head bashes,
which can be bad if it hits you and make you a snowball.
Most of the info for regular barroth works for this one, so there
isn't much to add. Just be careful of his rare hipcheck, if you're
attacking him from between his legs, he will usually do it to, get
distance from you, usually followed by a head ram.
----------------
8.12.- Uragaan
----------------
Weakness: Water and dragon.
This is one of the most annoying monster to fight, even if it looks
big and all, it's really fast, and if you're gunlancing he can
corner you or deplete your stamina fast. If you're learning to fight
him with GL, i'd suggest you to have guard+1/2 sincemost of his
attacks have a lot of pushback and chip damage.
Try to stay close to his legs and hit his stomach all you can, unlike
barroth, this one can be tripped down no matter the situation, but
his legs are stronger, so it's not very recommended to target the
legs that much.
An advantage GL has against him and if you're using guard+2 is that
you can stay in front of him most of the time and shell his chin,
that is if you can't have white sharpness so you won't bounce with
it if you stab the head or don't have ESP. Ice agna GL works great
for this monster thanks to his water weakness.
Another advantage of having guard+ skills is most of his attacks are
continous or long lasting, and if you guard them you have a lot of
free time to attack while he finishes the attack animation.
You can try to cut the tail, and since GL has a good upper reach is
easy to attack it, just remember you have to break it first before
you cut it.
Most of his attacks can be evaded through, but require a tricky
positioning, also his rolling attack is quite strong, but is easy
to predict, like most bipedal wyverns (brute wyverns) the walk
bakwards to position themselves and use his attack.
Also take i count that all of his chin slam attacks have a hitbox
that also covers his arms section, so to be safe below him, you'd
have to place yourself between the legs.
His rolling attack may be unpredictable once it starts, but the
easiest way to avoid it is to go directly at him but to a side,
he won't roll that close to where ti started and if it happens to
do an U-turn it never goes back to where it started.
---------------------
8.13.- Steel Uragaan
---------------------
Weakness: Water and dragon
He shares most of the attacks and moves from the regular version,
though there's some differences.
His thrown stones release a stink gas every now and then, so avoid
being close to them.
Instead of having a sleep fart, he has a stink one, you can guard it,
but unless you have guard inc the effect will still affect you, so
i'd suggest to bring deodorants.
If you're around 7-8 rolls of distance, he will do the 180 tail whip
that throws the stones most of the time, but this ura can throw
them in certain positions so they can hit you and even burst them
instantly with a chin slam. Also be careful about the stones since
even uragaan walking near them will burst them.
Though a good point is both uragaans get hurt by the explosions of
their own stones, somethig to keep in mind.
The rest is pretty much the same style as with the regular one.
---------------------
8.14.- Doboruberuku
---------------------
Weaknesses: Fire.
Takes less damage when enraged
Doboru has a mixed opinion, some people think is a giant punchbag,
while others find it super hard. The monster can be a bit annoying
to get used, especially while using a slow weapon like GL and you're
not using Guard+ skills, but once you get the hang of it is easy.
First, unless you need to brake his horns, it's always better to go
for his legs.
But, if by this time you have a good notion of when you'll stagger
it, it's better to leave the legs for when he starts spinning.
Most of his attacks can be evaded just by staying not directly in
front of him. like his head ram, if you can predict it well, since
he always leans back fast to do it you need to move to a side, not
backwards.
the tail slams can be annoying, if you're behind him, always stay
directly behind him, since hi has sideways tail slams, and of you
can't stay below it don't hesitate to go farther than his tail reach.
He will usually try to walk forward and position to slam you, but
you can avoid this just by going away from him rather than follow.
Next, regarding his spinning attack, it's the only way to trip him.
You need to stagger the legs so he lose balance and falls on
his side, giving you chance to attack the humps. That's why you need
to have a notion of when to attack and stop attacking the legs before
he starts to spin.
-To keep hitting the legs easier when he starts spinning, since
you're gunlancing you can just guard the first 3 slow spins, or take
a safe distance for the FIRST 2 spins and right after that one run
towards it, since the tail will take impulse and stay in mid-air,
you can get below him before he spins to fast.
Now, if you couldn't trip it, there's a safe way to predict how he'll
fall, right before he jumps, the way you're when he jumps will be
the place where his head will be facing, same for the other attacks
where he jumps to body slam. This is VERY useful if you want to break
the tail, or attack the humps, since the GL has a big reach you can
place exactly behind him, between the leg and where the tail starts,
and you can do guard stabs to hit the humps.
Also, when he's standing, and you're right below him, close to his
arms, if you aim your GL upwards with long type you can shell the
humps.
You can use traps on him to drastically lower the time of hunt, with
one pitfall could be more than enough to attack the humps and if
you're fast enough even brake them.
---------------------
8.15.- Deviljho
---------------------
Weaknesses: Dragon and Thunder
The giant pickle can ne a pain for most players, but if you examine
it, you're basically fighting a giant great Jaggi. He shares most of
his moveset and behavior. Though, of course he also has his own ways
to kill you.
The first thing is, when he is NOT enraged his head is the weakest
point, with a GL should be no big deal. Tho it can be bad to stay
in front of him too much.
Never stay to his right, or he will do the stomp that is VERY strong.
His tail whip is esactly like jaggi's, so you can evade it or guard.
If you see him walk backwards walk away from him, he will do that
spin attack that even if you guard with G+2 you will get hurt.
If he starts to do the advancing bites attack, time it well and roll
below him or towards the leg he just finished moving, if you do it
it should never hit you.
The next thing is, when he's enraged his weak point is the STOMACH.
So don't even bother with the head while he's in rage, using upstabs
would be the best, but for the position of the weakpoint you would
usually end up hitting the arms so this is one of the very small
cases where guard stab can be the best bet.
While he's enraged he can do the sweeping dragon breath attack. This
can be easlily avoided or if you're not confident on evading it you
can guard without trouble.
IMO when he's fatigued is more annoying, since all his bite attacks
will lower your defense, and attacks more erratically. This is just
me, but you can feed him tainted meats and such, or try and attack
the head while in this state, which is annoying, since most of what
he wil do be: Walk towards you and stop above you, then do a turning
bite attack.
Just attack the head, and stomach when in rage and shouldn't take too
long.
------------------------
8.16.- Royal Ludroth
------------------------
Weaknesses: Fire
This is just a punchbag, IMO easier than even the dog-lizards.
What you need to do as gunlancer is attack the chest, that's right.
Just between the arms and where the sponge neck starts.
It should be no trouble, and you can also do decent damage on the
head and sponge, so it's no big deal if you fail to hit the weakpont.
Just stay at one roll of distance from him when you're not attacking
If you're closer he will do the claw swipe, that can be guarded or
evaded. Try to stay on his left, if you go right he will usually do
that body roll attack, which you can evade by walking to his left.
If he starts to shoot the water balls, if it's one just keep
attacking, if he does the triple shot, get away from him since he
will always start that mindless stomping attack, similar to Gypceros
in FU.
The tail takes decent damage, so if you're planning to cut it, you're
still doing decent damage for kill.
-----------------------------
8.17.- Purple Royal Ludroth
-----------------------------
Weaknesses: Fire
Nothing to say here, it's the exact same tactics used on normal luddy.
Only difference is he can poison you with the water attacks.
------------------------
8.18.- Happurubokka
------------------------
Weaknesses: Ice
Happu is one of those annoying monsters that moves to much and hides
all his weakpoints. Good thing is you're gunlancing and you don't
care about them.
Assuming you're using the best ice gunlance which is also a ST.
what you only need to do is attack everywhere with charged shells.
Sounds kinda stupid, but just doing that might guarantee a faster
time than most weapons against him.
Use the bombs and sonic tactics, place a bomb, when he burrows,
sonic above the bomb, he eats it, explodes, you fish.
WHen it's fished, you attack the stomach, being careful to not hit
the arms, you have enough time to do 2 combos of 2 stabs and slam,
ending with a WF on the last one.
IF he gets enraged you could go and attack the nose with stabs. If
you stagger him you pull him out of sand.
====================================================================
9.- Weapon recommendations
====================================================================
For the moment i will only list the best startnig paths and the best
end game ones, since those are the hardest to take note.
-----------------------
9.1 Starting weapons
-----------------------
Since your basic starting weapons suck, the best thing to do is to
sell the Old yukumo Gunlance and buy a Yukumo gunlance from store.
I suggest you to get at least 3 of those in the near future, since
two will go to bone GL that in one point will divide to agnaktor and
urukususu GL, and one to yukumo GL+ that will go to naruga GL.
At village and low rank your best bets are Urukususu GL and Naruga.
Since uruku has high raw and decent sharpness and ice damage,
it's also the first spread type shell GL available, it's also
especially useful for taking out the first jhen moran.
Then Naruga is better for any monster not weak to ice, despite
having lower Raw, at that point the sharpness and higher affinity
can do wonders on low rank missions.
So for short just for low rank you would go:
Yukumo Gunlance--> Yukumo Gunlance+-->Hidden Gunlance (140, blue)
Yukumo Gunlance--> Bone Gunlance--> Great Bone Gunlance-->
Urukusu Ski--> Urukusu Ski+ (150, 32 ice, green)
Yukumo Gunlance--> Bone Gunlance--> Great Bone Gunlance-->
Wyvern Bone Gunlance (140, green)--> Flamethrower (150, 28 fire)
This one for future hi rank use (Gun Chariot)
Yukumo Gunlance--> Special Ops Gunlance--> Imperial Gunlance-->
Red Rook (160, 25 fire, best fire GL at low rank)
End game GL's:
Raw weapons:
Ancient exterminator: is the most balanced one, it has a sort of
small sharpness but it has good raw and Spread type lvl3 shells.
Also it has 2 slots. Perfect to start your collection of GL's.
Also easy to get.
Ukanlos Hail : has very high raw, but bad sharpness and a
-20% affinity, but when used with a correct armor set it can become
one of the best raw weapons. It also has long type lvl4 shells,
having the strongest WF in the game.
Fire:
Agna Magma: is the best option, it has very few blue or white
sharpness, but with s+1, even at blue still does really good damage.
It has lvl3 long shots so it has a good WF.
Water:
Agna Aqua: like the one above, has very little sharpness but thanks
to its high element ends up the best in its element.
Thunder:
Flaming Thunder: has a lot of raw damage, good thunder, has 1 slot,
and with s+1 it gets really high white sharpness.
Its only con is it has normal type shells, not something it would
suffer much though.
Gold Crown+: has a lot lower raw, but higher thunder, it also packs
lvl3 spread making it great, and with s+1 it has a really long chunk
of white sharpness, perfect for monsters with strong raw defense,
like the metallic wyverns.
Ice:
Urukusu Sleigh: it has good raw, element and spread lvl3
so its quite the the best in its element, unless you count uka as an
ice weapon too.
Dragon:
Obelisk: has long sharpness, good raw, element and spread lvl3
shots, the bad is it has -5% affinity and no slots.
Gun Chariot: is equally good in dragon element terms, it has same raw
as Obelisk (215), a bit higher element, but smaller sharpness, and
lvl3 long shots, and 2 slots.
They are pretty much interchangeable.
Status:
Poison:
Radiant Ishtar: is the best poison GL, its so good in raw and status
inflicting it could also work as a raw weapon, has good sharpness,
and one slot, the only down is it has lvl3 normal shells.
Paralysis:
Fortune babushka could fit as a joke weapon, its terrible all round
but is surprisingly effective in multiplayer for paralyzing,
so this one is best recommended for online play.
=====================================================================
10.- Autoguarding
=====================================================================
What can i say about it? It's a bug in the game where you equip the
autoguard charm, and when you fire a shell or fast reload as a
monster attacks you it guards instantaneously, cancelling the
animation, but still getting the effect of it done, i.e. it cancels
fast reload but still reloads the shell. A really cheap "feature" of
the gunlance, if you plan to use it is at your own good, because
while using it you're not improving in any way, in fact it may make
you lazy to react to attacks. And some people look down at people who
use it, so again use it at your own risk.
For best results get a Spread type GL, gunnery king and guard+2.
-------------------------
11.- Contact and Credits
-------------------------
If you want to contact me , notify any errors, if you find some-
thing is missing and such, you can find
me in gamefaqs.com, username Sephiroth1491 or through
[email protected].
Most of the info was researched by myself since i started the game,
though i supported from information provided by Holywoodchuck's
Damage FAQ, and VioletKIRA's monster data guide, one of the best
sources i used.
Also i'd like to thank Nosukekuroki and his awesome math
skills that got me into damage calcs, and mazereon that gave me a
hand too on it at start.
And special thanks to people that helped me in related information
direct and indirectly for GL information and genral infomration on
P3rd since i never played MH3 and didn't know most stuff:
Literboy
Tw1g_007
Rasengan_X
Royerskull
And Of course a big thanks to Capcom for making this great game i
spend weeks playing (hours and days are just too small to count).
This guide is only permitted to be used at this point on:
GameFAQs
Copyright 2011-2012 Pablo Diaz Samaniego
