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[35]Nordic Food Lab
[36]Bog butter: a gastronomic perspective
Added on October 30, 2013 by [37]Ben Reade.
The house of the Butter Vikings Patrik and Zandra The house of the
Butter Vikings Patrik and Zandra
The house of the Butter Vikings Patrik and Zandra
by Ben Reade.
This paper was first published in ‘Wrapped and Stuffed: Proceedings of
the [38]Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery 2012′. The complete
Proceedings is available from [39]Prospect Books; a video recording of
the presentation of this paper can be found [40]here (starting at 33
minutes), and a podcast about it [41]here.
People dig for peat. Once dry, this peat burns hot and lets off an
evocative smoke that brings to mind the cooking and heating methods of
yesteryear. The peat-cutters harvest their quarry from dark brown,
water-logged quagmires. Occasionally, these accidental archeologists
discover artifacts left by people long gone. One such artifact, among
the most commonly unearthed items from the watery, misty bogs of
Ireland and Scotland, is known as ‘bog butter’. Due to the frequency of
these findings and its mysterious nature, it has been fairly well
studied from an archaeological perspective, perhaps the most thorough
investigation being that by Caroline Earwood (1). In this study I will
attempt an exploration of the substance through the eye of a chef and
gastronome, combining available literary evidence with our own
practical research. We made our own bog butter and subsequent
gastronomic analysis with the hope that a new gastronomic perspective
on the topic would give us access to a more pragmatic understanding of
how and why ancient peoples buried their butter.
Bog butter is butter that has been buried in a peat bog (2). It has
occasionally been confused with animal adipose tissue (most commonly
sheep tallow), which has been preserved in the same manner. Over 430
instances of bog butter have been recorded (3). Of these, 274 have been
found in Scotland and Ireland since 1817. These samples are well
catalogued by Caroline Earwood. The earliest discoveries are thought to
come from the Middle Iron Age (400-350 BC), though this does not
exclude the possibility of much more ancient roots. More recently one
firsthand account tells of butter being buried for preservation in Co.
Donegal 1850-60 (4). In 1892, Rev. James O’Laverty, an advocate of the
argument that the butter was buried for gastronomic reasons, dug some
butter into a ‘bog bank’ and left it for eight months. His experiment
was carried out in much the same spirit as ours – for analytical
purposes and not for a cultural or preserving motive (5).
This paper aims, by making bog butter using appropriately basic
technology, to explore why the boutyrophagoi, or ‘butter-eaters’,
across Scotland, Ireland, the Faeroe Islands, Finland and Norway, as
well as Kashmir, Assam and Morocco have buried their butter, with
special focus on the Irish, Scottish and Scandinavian traditions (6).
The aim of this paper also extends to a discussion of whether or not
butter preserved by this method can have a hedonic value for today’s
palates, and possibly some use in contemporary cuisine.
Peat bogs are, by their nature, cold, wet places; almost no oxygen
circulates in the millennia-old build-up of plant material, which
creates highly acidic conditions (our site had a pH of 3.5). Sphagnum
moss bogs have remarkable preservation properties, the mechanisms of
which are poorly understood (7). Early food preservation methods have
been researched extensively by Daniel C. Fisher, in relation to the
preservation of meat. In an attempt to recreate techniques used by
paleoamericans in North America, Fisher sunk various meats into a
frozen pond and a peat bog. A key finding from his research is that
after one year, bacterial counts on the submerged meats were comparable
to control samples which had been left in a freezer for the same amount
of time (8). In fact, suitable foods can probably be aged in many types
of soil: salt-rich that will provide dehydration, very cold/freezing
that will freeze foods or slow degradation, or, as in our case,
anaerobic and acidic conditions to prevent microbial action and
oxidation. To our canny ancestors, this preserving characteristic
provided an ideal place to bury foods (9).
Around two thirds of the bog butter that has been discovered has come
in a container or wrapping of some description. These containers are
varied; during the spring and summer months when butter was abundant,
dairymaids probably used almost anything they could for storage. The
most common containers are wooden. These can be described under the
broad classifications of kegs, churns, bowls, dishes, boxes, troughs,
methers, firkins and piggins (10). The slowly evolving techniques of
the artisan can be seen in these containers and until recently, dates
were ascribed to archeological examples of bog butter in part on
account of the workmanship of the container. Willow baskets, staved
tubs, or bark wrappings have been used, as have bladders, intestines,
and skins or woolen cloth (11).
__________________________________________________________________
Buried foods around the world
banana bread (Ethiopia, banana dough),
buried eggs (China, eggs),
davuke (Fiji, bread fruit);
formaggio di Fossa (Italy, cheese);
ghee (India, clarified butter);
gravadlax (Scandinavia, salmon);
gubenkraut (Austria, cabbage);
hákarl (Greenland, Greenland shark);
igunaq (Inuit Arctic, walrus);
kiviak (Greenland, auks in a seal skin):
lutefisk (Scandinavia, white fish);
muktuk (Alaska, seal flipper);
reindeer’s stomach (Sápmi, Sweden, stomach with contents);
rue tallow (Faroe Islands & Iceland, sheep’s tallow);
sealskin poke (Alaska, meat/dried fish with seal fat);
smen (Morocco, clarified butter);
surmjølk/myrmjølk (Norway, milk);
Many fermented foods are prepared in fully or partially buried
amphoras, including wine in Armenia and soya sauce in Korea.
__________________________________________________________________
IMG_2394.JPG IMG_2394.JPG
Sometimes a combination of materials has been used, such as bark with a
bladder, or with a willow basket. One example used a barrel bound in a
deerskin to stow the butter into its peaty hiding place (12). One
particularly interesting find, discovered in Rosmoylan (Co. Roscommon,
Ireland) dates from the late Iron Age. Within a two piece barrel, the
butter was surrounded with plant fibers from sedge (Eriophphorum
vaginatum), bent grass (Agrostis sp.) and the soft-textured moss,
hypnum (Hypnum cupressiforme) (13). All three of these plants have a
long history of being used by people in mattresses and bedding; the
latter takes its name from the Greek ‘hypnos’ meaning ‘sleep’. It is
rather poetic that dairymaids had thought of these plants as
appropriate for protecting their butter. The butter was wrapped up and
made comfortable before being laid down for a long sleep in the bog.
Butter and other dairy products were frequently used as a form of
taxation and rent (14). At Naas Castle in Sweden where we conducted our
experiment, butter was a form of tax from the construction of the
castle in 1500 until the end of the nineteenth century. One early
fifteenth-century manuscript from Scotland, by the Rev. Dr. Archibald
Clerk, reports sixteen horse-loads of butter and cheese being found
hidden or ‘laid-up’ near a tenant’s house (15). Butter is valuable: for
that reason alone worth hiding, even more so in lawless times. One
author gives testimony that treasures were buried inside fats, so when
bog butter was discovered it was pierced from all directions to check
for valuables (16).
Butter had many uses. It could be used for waterproofing fabric and
also a dwelling – one bog house has been discovered where butter and
sand have been mixed together to make watertight cement (17). It might
also have been used as a light source. Angus Grant’s 1904 report tells
that the found butter was converted into candles but as ‘the candles
spluttered and crackled, sending sparks of boiling tallow all
round…they were voted uncanny, and promptly got rid of’ (18). So while
there are many suggestions as to why butter was buried, I propose it
was buried not only for its obvious value as a commodity but also for
some gastronomic purpose.
While being buried during times of plenty to keep for leaner times, the
butter may also have increased its gastronomic value during its time
underground. The fact that bog butter never contains salt suggests that
it may have been buried to preserve it in times when salt was scarce
(19). During the warmer summers, when rancidity would quickly take
hold, burying may have not only been a convenient way of preserving
butter but also of creating a luxury food (20). As the Danish priest
and topographer L.J. Debes said of the Faroese hoards of buried tallow,
‘the longer it is kept being so much the better’ (21). O’Laverty wrote
that the Irish buried their butter to ‘sweeten it’ (22). He also
suggests that it was put into peat to mature it and render it more
nutritive (23). This increased nutrition may be some kind of
representation in popular memory of how stored butter could provide for
lean times, though it may also refer to a palatable flavour or some
biochemical change within the butter itself which renders it more
nutritive. Testimonies of bog butter tasting tend not to describe it as
rancid, but many liken the altered fat to cheese. I had to make some to
see for myself.
Patrik and Zandra. warlords. Patrik and Zandra. warlords.
Patrik and Zandra. warlords.
The Experiment
From: The Irish Hiudibras (24)
But let his faith be good or bad,
In his house great plenty had,
Of burnt oat-bread, and butter found,
With Garlick mixt, in boggy ground,
So strong, a dog, with help of wind,
By scenting out, with ease might find:
And this they call the bravest meat,
That hungry mortals e’er did eat.
So it happened I was introduced to [42]Patrick Johansen, an artisanal
butter producer from Sweden. When I heard of his interest in aged
butters and experimental butter with wild bacteria, we got to talking.
Soon afterward we set to work creating some bog butter of our own.
Patrick lives surrounded by great swaths of Swedish forest where
elegant birches and enormous oaks grow, interrupted only by the
occasional lake and, conveniently, peat bog. His house is a long way
from anyone or anything; the water supply is a well in the garden and
the only light from paraffin lamps. Patrick learned to make world-class
butter from his grandmother, who in turn had learned from the
matriarchal line before her. My approach dictated that he decide how
everything should be done with the only limitation being that no
technology should be used that was not available before the industrial
revolution.
TIMBER!!!!!!! TIMBER!!!!!!!
TIMBER!!!!!!!
On the snow-sprinkled morning of 8 April 2012 we embarked on making our
twenty-first-century bog butter. We decided that birch bark was to be
our material of choice for crafting containers in which to bury the
butter. Using an old iron axe we brought down a smooth, tall, straight
birch, the bark from which we swiftly peeled. Birch bark unwraps from
the trunk with remarkable ease at this time of year; it is soft and
pliable yet firm and strong. We peeled the bark and sliced sections out
of slightly smaller parts of the tree to make tops and bottoms to our
‘barrels’.
The birch is 'unwrapped' The birch is 'unwrapped'
The birch is ‘unwrapped’
We had decided we should make some smaller samples which could be dug
up sooner, and then a larger one which will sit underground for some
years. The Irish Hudibras (1689) asserts that in Ireland, ‘butter to
eat with their hog, was seven years buried in a bog’ (25). Seven years
seems an appropriate length of time for our butter to age.
Although the technology of butter making has changed through the years,
the principles remain roughly the same. Butter is made by souring
cream, which is then churned until it splits into its fat (butter) and
aqueous (butter-milk) phases. The solid butter is removed from the
liquid buttermilk, clumped together and washed by kneading it in clean
cold water – this removes excess milk solids and buttermilk, thereby
increasing the butter’s longevity. After washing until the water runs
clear, the butter is thrown. This is a process of subjecting the butter
to some high impact (literally throwing it against the table), which
expels excess water. Now you have butter. The whole process with the
latest technology takes about fifteen seconds – for us, it took a
little longer.
cream is filtered trough a grass 'nest' cream is filtered trough a
grass 'nest'
cream is filtered trough a grass ‘nest’
In earlier times, after milk had been left to stand to allow the cream
to rise, it would need to be filtered to remove insects and dirt.
[43]Patrick tells me this was often done through grass which, as well
as filtering, also supplied the cream with ample lactic acid bacteria.
The cow’s teat, dairymaid’s hands, wooden containers and tools would
have also provided plentiful souring bacteria. Filtering could also
have been done with a piece of cloth, the advantage being that at the
end of the diary season the cloth could be dried out, preserving spore
forming lactic acid bacteria to be rehydrated and used to inoculate the
new batches the following dairy season (non-spore forming bacteria
would be lost). For our experiment, in the absence of a cloth from the
previous season, we chose to use a ‘nest’ of grass for filtering. Then
the cream was left to sour in a small stone-walled hovel, sunken into
the hillside; the kind of dwelling that early pastoralists might have
used while in summer pastures.
the souring 'hovel' the souring 'hovel'
the souring ‘hovel’
After souring, the cream must be churned. Traditionally this might have
been done by filling a calf’s skin with the soured cream and hanging it
from a wooden tripod or tree. The skin could then be swung back and
forth until the cream split. Many bog butter samples contain large
quantities of cow hair, suggesting that perhaps this method of swinging
and shaking in a cow skin was often used (26). To avoid problems of cow
hair and in the absence of a calf’s skin, we churned our cream by
shaking it in a large jar.
Fresh water drawn from the well. Fresh water drawn from the well.
Fresh water drawn from the well.
The butter was then washed to remove the majority of butter milk. We
did this with fresh cold water from the well in the garden – this is
quite a simple process of allowing water-soluble parts to be washed out
of the butter. Then we removed a large amount of the water by
repeatedly picking up the lump of churned and washed butter and
throwing it down onto the table. Throwing is an important step in the
production of butter to be preserved, so we made sure to do it
thoroughly.
Butter is swaddled in hypnum moss before being put to rest underground
Butter is swaddled in hypnum moss before being put to rest underground
Butter is swaddled in hypnum moss before being put to rest underground
We had made four small containers from birch bark and one from pine
bark, and we also adapted a large old willow basket to hold a larger
sample. In echo of the Rosmoylan bog butter discovery mentioned above
we wrapped the butter in hypnum moss, before stuffing these
moss-swaddled cylinders into our birch bark barrels – a comfortable bed
in which our butter could sleep. Our willow basket held a half-firkin
(approx. 12.5 kg) of butter, which was wrapped in a linen apron before
being placed in the basket. It was important, as with historical bog
butter finds, that the upper surface of the butter be entirely convex,
in order that no water collect and stagnate on the top.
Downey et al. note that a large percentage of bog butter discoveries
have been made along historic boundary lines (27). In 1892, James
O’Laverty wrote that the butter was dug into ‘bog-banks’, perhaps
another type of territorial confine (28). Debes’s 1673 description of
the Faroe Islands describes how the preserved tallow or ‘rue tallow’
was buried in a ‘dike’ which certainly hints at a wall or embankment of
some kind (29). There are many reasons why this should be the case,
though it has largely been attributed to ritualistic motivations. I
would suggest it may also have been to leave the food in a spot where
people were unlikely to dig, and where there was a clear landmark.
After looking for an appropriate bog to dig in we found a spot in a
sphagnum and birch tree bog. The ground was soft enough to dig easily,
and the holes slowly filled up with acidic bog water. We divided our
containers between two holes and buried them at around 100cm below the
surface. One of these stashes was unearthed and tasted three months
after its burial (some notes on these tastings are found below). The
second hoard will be allowed to age for a longer time, for seven years
in echo of The Irish Hudibras, or perhaps left forever as some
confusing archeology for the future: ‘It may, therefore, be termed a
hidden treasure, which rust doth not consume, nor thieves steel away’,
as Debes wrote in 1673 (30).
IMG_2460.JPG IMG_2460.JPG
Finally, after counting our steps back to the path, we took a corner
off a large rock with the back of our axe. This palm-of-your-hand-sized
chunk of rock will now serve as a key. For whoever returns to dig up
the butter, the stone key will fit into the rock and the butter will
rise up from the bog.
The Results
At this point in time, five of our buried containers have been
unearthed and tasted, and one remains in its peaty wallow. Tastings of
three-month-aged bog butter have been made at both Nordic Food Lab in
Copenhagen, Denmark and at the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery
2012 in Oxford, England. Various conclusions can be drawn from these
tastings.
In its time underground the butter did not go rancid, as one would
expect butter of the same quality to do in a fridge over the same time.
The organoleptic qualities of this product were too many surprising,
causing disgust in some and enjoyment in others. The fat absorbs a
considerable amount of flavor from its surroundings, gaining flavor
notes which were described primarily as ‘animal’ or ‘gamey’, ‘moss’,
‘funky’, ‘pungent’, and ‘salami’. These characteristics are certainly
far-flung from the creamy acidity of a freshly made cultured butter,
but have been found useful in the kitchen especially with strong and
pungent dishes, in a similar manner to aged ghee.
As I worked with Patrick to make this bog-butter I noticed that all he
ate all day was the butter itself. This, he said, is common among
butter makers. A walnut sized lump will keep one sustained all day. If
we consider ancient dairy based economies, many people may have gone
all day eating only butter quite frequently. Occasionally it would be
consumed on an oatcake, or with a piece of meat or fish, but often on
its own. In times where transhumance brought people to relatively
isolated and exposed locations, time spent inside with a fire to keep
warm, along with infrequent washing and living space shared with their
animals, may well have meant that stronger foods became more desirable,
as they had some character that stood out from the already ripe
surroundings.
Taste is to a large extent culturally defined, and modern tastes have
been shaped by myriad modern factors that cannot be removed from the
equation. When we taste this altered butter a the 2012 Oxford Symposium
on Food and Cookery, we had to use some imagination. As O’Laverty wrote
of his own bog butter experiment in the late nineteenth century, ‘for
my own taste I would prefer butter cured in the modern way, but I have
no doubt that usage would confer an acquired taste’ (31).
Proud boutyrophagoi Proud boutyrophagoi
Proud boutyrophagoi
__________________________________________________________________
[update by Josh 29.10.13] – This past weekend, Guillemette and I took a
trip up to Floda to visit Patrik and Zandra and make some butter
together. We also used it as an opportunity to check up with the bog
butter. The rainy Saturday afternoon saw us following the same path
through the woods, finding the rock with the missing corner, and
descending off the road down into the bog. Once we located the clearing
with the buried treasure, we dug up the main deposit for a taste. It is
still mossy, green, and earthy – maybe it was the fact that we were
also wet, a little smelly, and surrounded by the moss like the thing
itself, but the butter, eaten with muddy hands in the clearing in the
bog, tasted really good.
The butter is now 1 year, 6 months, 3 weeks old, and counting.
IMG_1885.JPG IMG_1885.JPG
Notes
1 Caroline Earwood, ‘Bog Butter: A Two Thousand Year History’, The
Journal of Irish Archaeology, 8 (1997), 25-42.
2 Robert Berstan et al., ‘Characterization of Bog Butter Using a
Combination of Molecular and Isotropic Techniques’, Analyst, 129
(2004), 3-8.
3 L. Downey et al., ‘Bog Butter: Dating Profile and Location’,
Archaeology Ireland, 75 (2006), 32-34.
4 Earwood.
5 James O’Laverty, ‘The True Reason Why the Irish Buried Their Butter
in Bog Banks’, Journal of the Royal Society of Antiquities of Ireland,
2 (1892), 356-337.
6 Berstan; David MacRitchie, ‘Wooden Dish Found Lately in the
Hebrides’, Archaeological Notes, Reliquary, N.S II (1896); E. Estyn
Evans, ‘Bog Butter: Another Explanation’, Ulster Journal of Archaeology
3rd. ser, 10 (1947), 59-62; PRIA, vi (1858), 369-72; personal email
exchange with Anders Strinnholm of Stavanger Museum of Archaeology
regarding collection item S9457 – three lumps of big butter from the
Stavanger area of Norway; James Williams, ‘A Sample of Bog Butter from
Lachar Moss, Dunfriesshire’, Transactions of the Dumfriesshire and
Galloway Natural History and Antiquities Society, 3rd ser., 43 (1966),
O’Laverty, ‘True Reason’. In Norway a similar practice of burying milk
in peat bogs still exists as can be seen here:
http://www.nrk.no/nyheter/distrikt/rogaland/jaeren/1.8061809. In
Morocco butter is still preserved for long periods of time, sometimes
underground, where it is known as smen.
7 ‘Terence J. Painter’, Carbohydrate Research, 338 (21 November 2003):
2777-2778.
8 Sally Pobojewski, ‘Underwater Storage Techniques Preserved Meat for
Early Hunters’, The University Record, May 8 1995; retrieved 1/11/2012
from
http://www.ur.umich.edu/9495/May08_95/storage.htm.
9 Traditional foods for which burying is a part of the
preparation/preservation process, or for which there is evidence that
this may have been the case, include: banana bread (Ethiopia, banana
dough), buried eggs (China, eggs); davuke (Fiji, bread fruit);
formaggio di Fossa (Italy, cheese); ghee (India, clarified butter);
gravadlax (Scandinavia, salmon); gubenkraut (Austria, cabbage); hákarl
(Greenland, Greenland shark); igunaq (Inuit Arctic, walrus); kiviak
(Greenland, auks in a seal skin): lutefisk (Scandinavia, white fish);
muktuk (Alaska, seal flipper); reindeer’s stomach (Sápmi, Sweden,
stomach with contents); rue tallow (Faroe Islands & Iceland, sheep’s
tallow); sealskin poke (Alaska, meat/dried fish with seal fat); smen
(Morocco, clarified butter); and surmjølk/myrmjølk (Norway, milk); Many
fermented foods are prepared in fully or partially buried amphoras,
including wine in Armenia and soya sauce in Korea.
10 Earwood; F. J. Hunter, ‘Iron Age Hoarding in Scotland and Northern
England’, Reconstructing Iron Age Societies, eds. A. Gwilt and C.
Hasselgrove, Oxbow Monographs in Archaeology, Oxford: Oxbow, 1997, 71.
11 James O’Laverty, ‘Bog-butter’, Ulster Journal of Archaeology, 1st
ser., 7 (1859), 288-294.
12 Williams; Earwood.
13 Earwood.
14 O’Laverty, ‘Bog-butter’; personal communications between Professor
E.C Synnott, Process Engineering Department, University College Cork,
Ireland and Dr Alison Sheridon FSA Scot FSA AIFA, Head of Early
Prehistory, National Museums Scotland.
15 Rev. Dr. Archibald Clerk, ‘Notes on Everything’, accessed via Dr.
Alison Sheridon FSA Scot FSA AIFA, National Museum of Scotland.
16 Angus Grant, PSAS, 39 (1904-5), 246-247.
17 Niall Ó Dubhthaigh, ‘Summer Pasture in Donegal’, Folk Life, 22
(1984), 42-54.
18 Grant.
19 Earwood; Hunter; O’Laverty, ‘True Reason’.
20 Ó Dubhthaigh.
21 James Ritchie, ‘A Keg of Bog-butter from Skye’, Proceedings of the
Society of Antiquaries of Scotland 75 (1941), 5-22.
22 O’Laverty, ‘Bog-butter’.
23 O’Laverty, ‘Bog-butter’; O’Laverty, ‘Ture Reason’
24 Some doubts exist over the author(s) of The Irish Hudibras.
O’Laverty attributes it to William Moffet in 1855 (‘True Reason’).
James Farewell (1689) is written in the copy held by the British
Library. www.amazon.co.uk attributes the text to ‘Multiple
Contributors’.
25 O’Laverty, ‘True Reason’.
26 O’Laverty, ‘Bog-butter’; Ritchie.
27 Downey.
28 O’Laverty, ‘True Reason’.
29 PRIA, 6 (1858), 369-72.
30 PRIA, 6 (1858), 369-72.
31 O’Laverty, ‘True Reason’.
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https://nordicfoodlab.org/blog/2012/03/lactic-fermentation/
44.
https://nordicfoodlab.org/blog/2013/10/wood-for-food-a-pyrolysis/
45.
https://nordicfoodlab.org/blog/2013/10/waxed-plums/
46.
https://nordicfoodlab.org/bog-butter-a-gastronomic-perspective/
47.
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48.
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49.
http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/
Hidden links:
51.
https://twitter.com/NordicFoodLab
52.
http://instagram.com/nordicfoodlab/
